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From: owner-61-79-list-digest
 ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest) To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #366 Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Errors-To: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Precedence: bulk 61-79-list-digest Saturday, October 9 1999 Volume 03 : Number 366 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: RE: FTE 61-79 - Howling RE: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies RE: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Knock Detectors RE: FTE 61-79 - names and addictions. RE: FTE 61-79 - Leaking Water FTE 61-79 - Stuck in St. Louis FTE 61-79 - Door seal Install FTE 61-79 - 402 FTE 61-79 - Whinw/howl rearend RE: FTE 61-79 - Stuck in St. Louis RE: FTE 61-79 - I-6 Website RE: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460? RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio, punkin? FTE 61-79 - balance 460 RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: EFI Computers and such RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Knock Detectors RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: EFI Computers, knock sensors and such FTE 61-79 - Water leak RE: FTE 61-79 - Whinw/howl rearend RE: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460? RE: FTE 61-79 - Stuck in St. Louis FTE 61-79 - Removing bearing axle shaft seal Re: FTE 61-79 - Removing bearing axle shaft seal Re: FTE 61-79 - Removing bearing axle shaft seal RE: FTE 61-79 - Removing bearing axle shaft seal FTE 61-79 - Front axel capacity--need for seals FTE 61-79 - Hi Boy Steering FTE 61-79 - Crusie Control RE: FTE 61-79 - Crusie Control RE: FTE 61-79 - Crusie Control Re: FTE 61-79 - Front axel capacity--need for seals Re: FTE 61-79 - Crusie Control Re: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies Re: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies Re: FTE 61-79 - Front axel capacity--need for seals RE: FTE 61-79 - Crusie Control Re: FTE 61-79 - Front axel capacity--need for seals FTE 61-79 - Adjustable Drag link??? FTE 61-79 - O ring for C-6 needed RE: FTE 61-79 - O ring for C-6 needed Re: FTE 61-79 - Front axel capacity--need for seals Re: FTE 61-79 - Front axel capacity--need for seals Re: FTE 61-79 - Water leak FTE 61-79 - three speed on the floor my '71 f100 Re: FTE 61-79 - Water leak FTE 61-79 - Why Ford Made Unibodies Speculation Re: FTE 61-79 - Crew Cabs ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 06:20:55 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Howling Mine didn't whine, it rattled, until I used my trusty 3/4" impact on the yoke nut. Now it whines all the time, pushing or pulling :-) (but the rattle is gone :-)) The procedure is called "Precision bearing preloading" :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > > cruise/accel, but is quiet on decel/coast :-). >> > > When mine went out it would only whine at steady speed. If I == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 07:43:39 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies Well, Ok, my point was that when you release the key you turn off the power to the start wire and the engine will not run if the run wire has no voltage which was not the case we were discussing :-) I don't keep a copy of the wiring diagram handy and go from a very clouded memory. When I fix something I go on about my business and seem to forget what I did anymore :-( At one point I put a multimeter on every part of the system and knew exactly what each did but now......:-( I found a ballast resistor on one of my 78 vehicles but haven't found it again so maybe I was dreaming (I don't inhale :-)) I remember getting 12v and 8v and 2v at various points in the system and 2.--- ohms resistance somewhere and then my starter quit working and.....:-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > Gary, if you're talking D-spark here, that's not quite right. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 08:58:46 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies I'm getting roughly 11 with the bronco and got 6 with the van but there were other issues with the van so it doesn't count. The standard, 600 cfm replacement Holley square bore is not designed to meter well at low signal strengths so tipin is a problem in most appications for street use. With spread bores there is better signal strength at low rpms so they do better. My goal with the 460 is 15 mpg Average and I guarantee it won't get done with a standard, square bore Holley :-) The Carter and Rochester are well known to be much better, low rpm metering carbs so are more suited for the street but apparently don't flow quite as well at WOT as the Holley and they are more expensive so most people use the Holleys. Since I don't ever plan to drag race my truck and I am satisfied when I can pass a string of cars with enough accelleration to push me back in my seat the Rochester or Carter will do just fine and will also give me much better low speed throttle response. I totally believe in the spread bore concept so there just aren't any square bores that will ever get my attention again :-) There just isn't any comparison :-) Yes, you can up the accellerator pump ante and you can put bigger jets in it to make up for the transition mixture but then the economy goes down. If it has modular anular discharge nozzles you may be able to gain something there too. You can also adjust the timing to compensate a little but, again, the economy and performance suffers. Maybe I'm just a perfectionist but I want my engine to pull hard, smooth and clean at any speed I happen to want to mash the pedal and under any load. The sputtering, backfiring, hesitating and other flat spot symptoms are just not acceptable to me under ANY conditions. My OEM spread bore on the 460 meets this standard for the most part but still has some slight glitches in it so the next step is the Rochester :-) I won't stop until I have a Rheostat controlled DC Electric motor like performance at all speeds and load conditions :-) With an M block that's a challenge but with the 460 it's a realistic dream :-) (just had to light a fire there, sorry Dave :-)) Course I could always go EFI......:-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > If the Holley isn't a good carb for economy or tipin, > then what is? I > thought that the adjustable accelerator pump circuit provided off idle > performance when adjusted properly? 11-14 MPG from a 390 in a > full size > truck seems reasonable to me. How many MPG's would you consider to be > economical? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 08:03:06 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Knock Detectors > This is the advantage of a knock detector. You can run > enough initial advance to get good low speed power and > economy, but under a heavy load and knock conditions > occur, the total advance backs off so that you get all > the usable power that the fuel will produce and no > wastful knocking. > Unless of course the knock sensor is wired like it is from the factory in which case once it starts knocking that advance is pulled off of the base and you are therefore left back where you started ... I'm sure if you're adding your own you could wire around this "problem" or "feature" but if you're using a stock computer, you'd have to reset it or have 4 heat/cool cycles before it actually cleared itself. Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 08:12:32 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - names and addictions. > Wish, Come on now we had the discussion about terms before. The > SUPERCAB (not > extended cab) of my 74 is 139 and my 77 long bed is 133. > Hahahaha ... sorry guys ... I was so wrapped up in getting a part that FedEx was holding for me that it must've slipped my mind ... You guys HAVE to help me ... I've been spending way to much money lately, this is a problem, but not the one I need your help with ... my "problem" is that I did some work on my car and got addicted to the power, now I keep buying parts for it when I should be working on my truck! I watched a special on Speed Vision about "off-roading" (yes most of those roads were better than the one I live on) and that helped, but I really need to get motivated to get after some little stuff on the truck before winter sets in! HELP! :) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 08:15:25 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Leaking Water > I have a 1972 F-100 that leaks all the water from the water > jacket within 2 > minutes from the backside of the engine where the clutch bell housing > connects. > Other than this problem, the engine runs fine. > > Does anyone know if there is a freeze plug in the back of the engine? I > was hoping this might be the problem, rather than a cracked block. > Hmmm...what motor ? 72 from the factory could be a couple of 6's, a 302, or an FE, then there's all the swap possibilities ... I think the 302 MAY have a freeze plug in the head ... the FE doesn't (head's not big enough is it ? :) and I have NO idea about the 6's, I'd guess they might ... I'd suspect the head gasket first though ... put your hand down the back of the head (if the motor's fairly clean) and just run your hand down it til you feel where the water is coming out ... if you hit the crack where the head meets the block and then feel water, that's likely the leak (the head gasket I mean) ... That's where my FE let go once. Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 09:36:52 EDT From: SROTH84 aol.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stuck in St. Louis I am new to this group, I hope you can help. I just shipped my '69 Bronco from Florida to St. Louis(we just moved here). The last thing my mechanic did was convert it to power steering. I unloaded it from the truck and the steering has failed where the steering shaft meets the box. Does anyoneout there know a good mechanic or garage with experience on old Broncos? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 09:58:43 -0700 From: "O'Connor" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Door seal Install Jeff, I just looked closely at the Carpenter catalogue that I mentioned earlier. It shows repair/installation of the vent seal, anti-rattlers and vent glass. It is their old catalogue #7, April, 1997. Sorry to mislead you. Still interested? Tim 66F100 Custom Cab SWB with 352, P/S & O/D == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 09:16:32 -0500 From: "Brian C Nyman" Subject: FTE 61-79 - 402 Azie, Thanks for the support. I'm not running stock heads - maybe you took that into consideration. These are brand new Edelbrock Performer RPM FE heads #6006 (complete) - 72cc chambers, 'Heads include stainless steel, one-piece, swirl-polished, hardened tip 2.09" intake and 1.66" exhaust valves.' I bought the "complete" heads because they had all new/modern springs/valves and such, and it was cheaper than rebuilding the old cast iron heads. It may be painfully obvious that I'm not the seasoned mechanic that many/most of the list members are, and I appreciate your patience. Brian Nyman bnyman allina.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:41:55 -0400 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Whinw/howl rearend Ox writes: >>My 79, 9" does just the opposite. It whines like a motha under cruise/accel, but is quiet on decel/coast :-). I found that I had the pinion too shallow into the housing when one of mine did this several years ago. I replaced the spacer between the pinion carrier and the differential housing with a thicker one(now don' ask how much thicker or what the thickness was cause I don't remember), and the rear quited down to normal(no whine/howl - nada none). Just my experience. Azie == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:52:44 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Stuck in St. Louis Are you saying the rag joint? These are pretty easy to replace and only $10 or so at auto parts. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > steering has failed where the steering shaft meets the box. > Does anyoneout > there know a good mechanic or garage with experience on old Broncos? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:27:28 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - I-6 Website My soninlaw just got a gift of a stuffed bug with a y2k crash built in. When you drop it the silly thing sounds like glass breaking :-) The boys at the office spent the whole day throwing things at it to make it crash :-) (He works for an architect as a cad guy) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > Grumble grumble grumble..... ;-) > > Unfortunately, I'm not Y2K compatible... == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:48:59 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460? I can't agree with that one.... a 460 will break an NP435 way before it will trash a C-6. This is the main reason I'm considering the C-6 when I do the conversion. I'm concerned that I will get a little crazy one day and snap the input shaft or something. The C-6 OTOH will absorb a tremendous amount of torque before giving up :-) It has a built in shock absorber called a torque converter :-) Even wear wise I have several C-6's with well over 150k on them and they run strong but both Np 435's I have are seriously missing syncros and have serious rattles at about the same mileage. Don't misunderstand, I like the Np-435 and it has advantages off road or in bad weather and is stone reliable under hard use where a C-6 would burn up if not properly cooled etc. but over all, in my experience, the C-6 will outlast a standard most of the time in general use if not abused and will easily take as much torque all day long, if not more without breaking. Now.......if you want to talk OD autos we have a whole nuther smoke......:-( - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > great tranny-as far as automatics go, but the slushboxes are so > finiky...4spds are soooo much more durable. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:59:58 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio, punkin? And there's this one really big one that only shows up when Snoopy's asleep...... BTW, what did Larry say wrong? Did I miss that post? This punkin thing is pretty loose, it depends on who you talk to what specific part of the rear end it actually is. I used to call the third member a punkin, some call just the differntial housing (Carrier) with ring gear the punkin, but I typically just consider the humpy thing in the middle of the rear axle assy the "Punkin" since it's fat and round and on some off brand vehicles I've even seen Orange ones :-) I think the original meaning was number two, the carrier (differential housing) portion, maybe Azie can enlighten us? - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > > What's a pumpkin?? > > Well Lisa, its this little orange thing that grows in a patch > with a bunch > of others like it ... ;) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:59:30 -0400 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - balance 460 David writes: >>I have a 460 with a casting number of D1VE A2B this means 1971 block right? Therefore it should be internally balanced right? Well when I pulled the motor to address my blowby issue I recall seeing a lobe (a weighted thingy) behind the harmonic balancer does this suggest externally balanced. I do not recall seeing any weights on the flywheel (I will double check). Ultimately as you all may know I am swapping the 4spd for an auto.....so do I need a special flexplate (whatever the term is for the auto flywheel) for this if it is externally balanced? Any way to positively know how it is balanced? Thanks again for all your help. Please respond to me directly along with the list, so I can use this info tomorrow when the reassembly starts. All I've had personal experience with have been "Zero" or internally balanced. No weighted offsets in the vibration damper and no weights on the flywheel. Usually, I repeat, U S U A L L Y on internal(zero) balanced engines, there will be holes drilled in some of the larger counterweights on the crankshaft. I would take a good look at these for holes, as well as at the flywheel for copunterweights. I have heard of some of the very early CJ and SCJ's(429's) being externally balanced, but never encountered one. Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 08:03:49 -0700 From: "Hogan, Tom" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: EFI Computers and such I believe the stock location is in an expansion plug location. I know some on the list have threaded their expansion plug openings an installed pipe plugs for better leak prevention. Something similar could be done for the knock sensor. One thing I have heard is that you cannot use solid lifter cams with knock sensors. The noise the vavletrain makes with a solid lifter confuses the sensor and makes it think the engine is in a knock condition when it is not. Tom H. > ---------- > From: Dan Lee[SMTP:danlee_58 yahoo.com] > Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com > Sent: Thursday, October 07, 1999 11:18 AM > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com > Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: EFI Computers and such > > Bill, > > That is a good question, but it is one that I have > considered. A knock detector is an audio pickup > device, like a microphone. The circuitry is tuned to > the particular frequency that is associated with a > knock. All that is required is that the detector be in > close contact with the motor. Any hole will do. The > oil pressure switch is one that comes to mind. A > manifold port may work as well. A crankcase vent would > propably be ideal. > I did some further checking on Jacobs, their unit > changes the spark duration based on mixture, not the > timing. > I believe there is some confusion, at least on my part > between the terms 'detonation' and 'knock'. Detonation > is something that occurs on Supercharged engines at > high RPMs. Knock is Octane Knock or pinging and is due > to low octane fuel under high compression burning too > fast and producing a shock wave which in turn produces > an audible sound. This effect occurs at low RPMs under > heavy load. > > Dan Lee > '53 F100 > 400C-4V > > > From: "Bill Beyer" > Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI, Computers and such > I'm curious about where/how you're going to install > the knock sensor. > "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them > with bullets" > - -----Original Message-----From: Dan Lee > > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com > > Date: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 8:22 AM > Subject: FTE 61-79 - EFI, Computers and such> > >I read the recent thread about EFI and would love a > >reasonably priced EFI on my 400. In the meantime I > >would settle for a ignition computer that supports a > >knock sensor, since my 400 has 10.2:1 compression > >ratio. I would like to drop some total advance when > >the knock sensor detects detonation. I know that MSD > >makes a unit that will do that for turbos, but that's > >based on boost not detonation. Jacobs also makes a > >computer that they claim is suitable for this engine, > >but I am trying to get the details on this unit. Does > >anyone know of anything available with > this>capability? > > > ===== > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 11:05:47 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Knock Detectors Ok, now lets get serious, are there after market ignition modules that work with the dura spark pulse trigger dizzy which have this capability? If I go out and jump on the biggest, baddest Jacobs or MSD system and keep my trusty carb can I take advantage of this? Will my M block motor ever be Pain Free......I mean knock free? - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > This is the advantage of a knock detector. You can run > enough initial advance to get good low speed power and > economy, but under a heavy load and knock conditions > occur, the total advance backs off so that you get all > the usable power that the fuel will produce and no > wastful knocking. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 11:36:22 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: EFI Computers, knock sensors and such In other discussions on this subject it was pointed out that the location is very important so that it picks up the right vibrations. One suggestion I recall was to get it as close to the combustion chamber as possible so it's sensitivity could be dulled to the greatest extent to screen out the other noise? Probably works about like my motion detectors.....if you turn them down so it won't come on every time a car goes by you have to jump up and down in front of the stupid thing, waving your arms to get it to turn on......:-( Maybe if I use multiple detectors with one light fixture, 90 degrees to each other......:-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > knock sensor. One thing I have heard is that you cannot use > solid lifter > cams with knock sensors. The noise the vavletrain makes with > a solid lifter > confuses the sensor and makes it think the engine is in a > knock condition > when it is not. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 11:46:08 -0400 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Water leak Dave writes: >>Does anyone know if there is a freeze plug in the back of the engine? I was hoping this might be the problem, rather than a cracked block. Don't say what engine you have, but most do have a plug under the bellhousing. Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 11:08:29 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Whinw/howl rearend Isn't that what the "Yink" is supposed to do for us? Get the patter of little feet.....(grand daughter's on my mind :-)) pattern just so and the pinion depth then is supposed to be right on? - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > I found that I had the pinion too shallow into the housing > when one of mine did > this several years ago. I replaced the spacer between the > pinion carrier and > the differential housing with a thicker one(now don' ask how == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:12:21 -0400 From: "Clem Salek" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460? will In terms of breaking trannies, u-joints will give up way before a tranny blows up...that's been my experience. I've got 1350 Spicers, and I think that's my weak link. (Time to upgrade to the massive 1400 series??) It's just been my experience that auto's need a lot more TLC and/or beefing to keep them happy, wherease, even a bone-yard 4spd is ready for action. Yes, I agree with this wholeheartedly. Driving a 4spd under full load, doing 5k hill assaults, you'll break more parts, but under normal driving conditions, 4spds are fine. Except when plowing snow...It takes sooooo long to back up 200+- feet with an 8:1 reverse gear. Also, spooling in my winch (with the tranny in reverse, t-case in neutral) takes a long time. run I'd have to disagree. All the auto's I've seen with miles on them are beat. Maybe they've just been too abused. The 4 speeds, on the other hand, seem to go forever (with zero maintenance)...Try that with an auto. Futhermore, automatics (from what I'm told) are really simple to wiork on, but all those check balls and springs and passageways scare me. One piece of rt...:-( 4speeds: really simple to rebuild...:-) Amen Clem "Recon Unit 1" '79 F350 4X4,460,NP435 10Ton PTO Winch == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:19:49 -0400 From: "Clem Salek" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Stuck in St. Louis Borgeson (located in CT) makes some really nice steering shafts, but they're expensive ($200??) I've seen guys put togeter a steering shaft using flex joints and 1/2" extensions from a 1/2" drive tool set...Really scary, (can you say butchery?) Steering's no place to cut corners. Whatever is done to correct the steering shart, use top quality u-joints, collapseable shafts, or replacement parts. Clem "Recon Unit 1" '79 F350 4X4,460,NP435 10Ton PTO Winch $10 > steering has failed where the steering shaft meets the box. > Does anyoneout > there know a good mechanic or garage with experience on old Broncos? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 11:22:16 -0600 From: Kirk Baillie Subject: FTE 61-79 - Removing bearing axle shaft seal How do you go about driving the axle bearing shaft seal out of the drums. The inner bearing is in the way. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 13:47:49 -0400 From: Tony Marino Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Removing bearing axle shaft seal Easiest trick is to take a flat screwdriver and a hammer, and just put it on the edge of the seal where it is flat with the drum and beat the snot out of it-- eventually it will either pop up, or give you a groove to get a pair of pliers into to get them out.. 8-) Tony tony pscico.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony At 11:22 AM 10/8/99 -0600, you wrote: >How do you go about driving the axle bearing shaft seal out of the >drums. The inner bearing is in the way. >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 13:53:52 EDT From: TBeeee aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Removing bearing axle shaft seal In a message dated 10/8/99 1:27:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kbaillie home.com writes: > How do you go about driving the axle bearing shaft seal out of the > drums. The inner bearing is in the way. Since I always replace the seal anyway...I turn the drum so the seal is facing down and suspended over a "clean" area (not the dirt) and use a block of wood against the center section of the bearing and drive it right out with a few blows of a hammer on the wood. That forces the seal right out. Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 13:59:08 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Removing bearing axle shaft seal Well, you don't :-) You use a puller. I've knocked them out from behind many times but you risk damaging the bearings if you can even get a purchase on them. On one occasion I used an old brake spanner as a punch by cutting off one end for a handle and using the bent end as the punch to reach behind the bearing and get under it to drive out some races but the puller might have worked just as well or even better in that case. Auto parts has a whole bunch of pullers for all kinds of things but the one I like the best is called a pilot bearing puller. It's a little slide hammer with a hook on the end to hook over the edge of the pilot bearing to pull it out and it also happens to work very well for seals and even bearing races with a heavy enough slide. You don't need much for this so don't go out and spend a bunch on something fancy. Go to autozone or one of the others that rent tools and try a few and see which one you like the best then buy it if you think you will use it again, that's what I did on many items I have now :-) All you need for this is a rod, a piece of pipe and a way to stop the pipe at one end and a hook at the other or you could even set it up to tap out with a hammer as mine was when I got it. Mine was a little pricey and I wouldn't recommend the same tool due to that but other tools out there will do the same job and are cheaper so shop around or make one up out of some junk lying around. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > How do you go about driving the axle bearing shaft seal out of the > drums. The inner bearing is in the way. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 12:12:07 -0600 From: Kirk Baillie Subject: FTE 61-79 - Front axel capacity--need for seals Hi I need to find out my front axle capacity. It is a dana 60 with the vin plate code: B4J "J" is the capacity is it not, but I can not find the represented # in the vin plate decoder. Thanks again Kirk Baillie == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 11:24:03 -0700 From: "J.S.H." Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hi Boy Steering > p/s unit off a 1 ton international truck would bolt right up to my frame and pitman arm, I know some one who did this, works OK, looks like a hack job with a huge p/s box on the outside of frame where it rubs the tire on right turns.The 78-9 box swap looks %100 original,and that is the set up I plan on using at some point in time on mine(76) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 12:37:17 -0600 From: William A Whited Subject: FTE 61-79 - Crusie Control On my 77 they have the cruise control buttons in the steering wheel. If I wanted to change to an after market steering wheel how would I move the cruise controls and how hard would it be? Remember I'm an electrical IDIOT. TIA - -- William A Whited 74 F100 RANGER SUPERCAB 390 77 F150 CUSTOM 460 SEMPER FI == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 13:59:44 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Crusie Control > On my 77 they have the cruise control buttons in > the steering wheel. If I wanted to change to an after > market steering wheel how would I move the cruise > controls and how hard would it be? Remember I'm an > electrical IDIOT. TIA > Some companies have finally started making aftermarket wheels that will hold the cruise buttons ... I know the 'stangs offer them, don't know what you're lookin for on your truck though ... just call grant or someone and see if they offer anything .... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 15:16:52 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Crusie Control Grant has a steering wheel with buttons in it.....why would you want to go backward? I have cruise control for my bronco and have been waiting till I could find a wheel to use it with :-) There are all kinds of kinky after market versions out there with dash mounted buttons and sticks etc. but none of them appeal to me, you have to take your eyes off the road to operate them, YUK! You might be able to pull the wires out of the column and set up a set of buttons on the dash near to the column and hook them up but you would probably have to cut the ends off and then they wouldn't go back on the old setup. I have the system out of my lincoln. If I have time I will pull the wheel and see how it all goes together. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > On my 77 they have the cruise control buttons in > the steering wheel. If I wanted to change to an after > market steering wheel how would I move the cruise > controls and how hard would it be? Remember I'm an > electrical IDIOT. TIA == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 14:32:41 -0500 From: "Norm" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Front axel capacity--need for seals > Hi I need to find out my front axle capacity. It is a dana 60 with the > vin plate code: B4J "J" is the capacity is it not, but I can not find > the represented # in the vin plate decoder. > > Thanks again > Kirk Baillie Kirk I have no idea of the year your truck is...but assuming the codes match in 1978 The B4 Code meant a rear Dana 60 with limmited slip and 4.10 gears/5300GVW? According to the factory Ford Service Specification book I have here (1978) The J stands for power steering! IF it is a front Dana 60 built from79-97.....The inner wheel bearing seal ,part # is 27452 ( thats a NAPA # But I believe it is a C/R part # also! If ya need the axle shaft seal..78-79 only #15692 Spindle hub seal......79-91 inner/ #400659 outer/ #711822 Hope this helps some! Norm/Tracie dahorse jvlnet.com " Babied & Pampered" http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=231 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jvlnet.com/~dahorse == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 13:45:38 -0600 From: William A Whited Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Crusie Control Gary, I was looking at going backwards. Just wondering if there was an easy fix. The wheel I was looking at is in the LMC catalog with a nice hardwood finish and big ole Ford Emblem on it. My wheel is cracking pretty bad and the rubber piece in the middle is coming up and keeps getting in my way during turns. I'm just looking into it at this stage. Thanks for the opioins though. - -- William A Whited 74 F100 RANGER SUPERCAB 390 77 F150 CUSTOM 460 SEMPER FI == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 15:17:42 -0500 From: "Norm" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies Gary wrote The standard, 600 cfm > replacement Holley square bore is not designed to meter well at low signal > strengths so tipin is a problem in most appications for street use. With > spread bores there is better signal strength at low rpms so they do better. > My goal with the 460 is 15 mpg Average and I guarantee it won't get done > with a standard, square bore Holley :-) Gary.....I hate ta disagree (really)......but my dads old motorhome....mildly modified 460, with a 750 Holley....(again massaged) recurved dizzy and all the usual tricks got 14mpg average going across ND a few years back! And maintains a respectable average of 12+ on every trip it takes! (except in the mountains) > The Carter and Rochester are well known to be much better, low rpm metering > carbs so are more suited for the street but apparently don't flow quite as > well at WOT as the Holley and they are more expensive so most people use the > Holleys. Again! I would think that 800CFM for the QJ and 1000CRM for the TQ should be adequate for most? And I will agree that the spread bores are decent carbs ( ya know what I like Gary) But there is nothing wrong with the Holley if tuned properly! Maybe I'm just a perfectionist but I want > my engine to pull hard, smooth and clean at any speed I happen to want to > mash the pedal and under any load. The sputtering, backfiring, hesitating > and other flat spot symptoms are just not acceptable to me under ANY > conditions Gary.......I will wager a weeks pay ya can't find a bog, hesitation, stumble,or backfire in my Bronco as it sits right now! With my least favorite carb (Edelbrock) presently residing on it! And If I can tune it to run like this without alot of fussing......on my motor....(5in vac) Then it will run even better on most i would think! Ok ,well Anyways.. I just felt compelled to defend the square bores......They only run poorly if not tuned properly! And I have seen many a poor running spreadbore also! Again.....owners fault.......not the carbs! Norm/Tracie dahorse jvlnet.com " Babied & Pampered" http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=231 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jvlnet.com/~dahorse == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 16:47:00 -0400 From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies Okay....I'll bite....what is tipin???? - -Ted Gary wrote The standard, 600 cfm > replacement Holley square bore is not designed to meter well at low signal > strengths so tipin is a problem in most appications for street use. With > spread bores there is better signal strength at low rpms so they do better. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 15:06:33 -0600 From: Kirk Baillie Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Front axel capacity--need for seals The truck is a 74 F250 4x4, and I need the seal for the axle shaft (the one on the back of the drum). thanks Kirk Baillie == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 16:18:13 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Crusie Control > Gary, I was looking at going backwards. Just wondering > if there was an easy fix. The wheel I was looking at > is in the LMC catalog with a nice hardwood finish and > big ole Ford Emblem on it. My wheel is cracking pretty > bad and the rubber piece in the middle is coming up and > keeps getting in my way during turns. I'm just looking > into it at this stage. Thanks for the opioins though. > Actually it just dawned on me, the newer trucks all use this same style of cruise, why not just "cruise" the yards lookin for a new one ??? I see them once in a while out here even .... just not the old ones like I've got ... I did actually turn down a good one 'cause it had cruise and I can't use it, I'll see if its still there ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ps the trailer didn't have any manuf. name on it, I'll have to talk to Dad 'cause he's got the paperwork. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 17:16:26 EDT From: TBeeee aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Front axel capacity--need for seals In a message dated 10/8/99 2:23:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kbaillie home.com writes: > Hi I need to find out my front axle capacity. It is a dana 60 with the > vin plate code: B4J "J" is the capacity is it not, but I can not find > the represented # in the vin plate decoder. That 'J' is Ford's code for which front axle is installed. You will need to take that code and decipher it using a Master Part Catalog or the identification section usually found in the "Preliminary" Shop Manual for the year of your truck. You don't mention whether or not the axle id tag is still there? That would help too. If your front end is apart you should be able to read the part number from the inner seal you need. This makes it real easy when its an aftermarket seal because it is usually number that your local parts guy can look up by part number rather than application. Good for a quick fix and let's you put off your knowledge seeking quest when you have the time. Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 17:33:55 -0400 From: joe delaurentis Subject: FTE 61-79 - Adjustable Drag link??? hello group, with my 68 4x4 slowly coming back to life from a frame up redo, I am having a problem with the Front dana 44 not aligning with the truck it seems to be off set by 2 inches(when standing in front the front wheels are off from the back ones) My questions are, I am using a dana 44 from a 79 f-150 4x4 so i can have disk brakes, can i use the 68 drag link(the arm from the axle front to the frame mount Am i calling this the right thing???)the 68 one is 2+ inches shorter then the 79 one or is there such an item as an adjustable one and were i could get one..? Joe 68 4x4 390 c6- Np 205 Dana 44 with Disc Brakes, Since Ford Didn't build em this way in 68, I'll make my own! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 17:38:45 -0400 From: joe delaurentis Subject: FTE 61-79 - O ring for C-6 needed Group, can somebody point me in the direction of finding the O ring for a C-6 dipstick tube - -- Joe 68 4x4 390 c6- Np 205 Dana 44 with Disc Brakes, Since Ford Didn't build em this way in 68, I'll make my own! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 16:54:36 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - O ring for C-6 needed > Group, > can somebody point me in the direction of finding the O ring for a C-6 > dipstick tube > Lowe's ... all your home improvement needs :) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 17:06:04 -0500 From: "Norm" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Front axel capacity--need for seals Kirk.....are ya dead positive it's a Dana 60 Front axle? If you are then it has to be #25077.....thats the only seal shown for the front 60 in 74...interestingly enough....they show that same seal fitting the Dana 44 with a GVW of 3500lbs Both the 44 and the 60 are shown as B4 code axles? The other option shown is a F7 axle which is a Dana 44 also...in a 3300lb option! But if ya have the 60...then the #25077 is the one ya need! Like I said these are NAPA numbers so....I am not sure if they help or not! Norm/Tracie dahorse jvlnet.com " Babied & Pampered" http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=231 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jvlnet.com/~dahorse == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 19:29:21 -0600 From: Kirk Baillie Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Front axel capacity--need for seals I did things the easy way, just took the seal to the store and compared. Found the right one! Now to start putting all my purchases together tomorrow. Should be fun, but I have never had drum brakes before so it might take awhile. Thanks for your help Kirk Baillie == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 22:31:22 +0100 From: dave peters Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Water leak Sorry, forgot to mention the engine is a 240 6 cyl. Not very exciting, but handy. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 21:45:48 -0500 From: "Daniel R. Olinick" Subject: FTE 61-79 - three speed on the floor my '71 f100 >Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 10:36:55 -0500 >From: "William S. Hart" >Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - re of my new 71 f100. > >> Mine is on the floor. The hole is on the left side of the hump and >> the shifter has a few bends in it. It brings the shifter real close to >> my right leg in reverse. Yes, it is an H pattern but 2nd is on the >> right and switched with reverse. I figure that someone didn't like it >> on the tree or something and converted it. >> > >Sounds about right ... I think ... I don't really understand what you're >saying quite ... the standard 3spd shift pattern is : > >R 2 >| | >+---+ >| | >1 3 It's been a while since I drove a three on the tree. It was a 70ish chevrolet. My F100 has the floor shift and it goes lke this: 13 R2 So maybe it's not reversed but simply upsidedown or something. I remember my grandmother's 64(i think) biscane(sp?) I should be driving that car today. It was a beauty. Someone in a little late model car hit her one day. Grandma might have had a small dent but I don't remember. She simply drove home while the compact was towed away. My parents had a blue 4dr '69 chevelle. Oh, both of these cars had a three speed on the column. I will never forget how grandma's clutch squeeked and I would watch the cold light on the way to school until it woul turn off. St Jude always stood on the dashboard. He had a little magnet underneath to hold him on tight. I bought my truck from a crooked used car dealer. Are there any other kind? I had trouble getting the price I wanted because I had already decided I wasn't leaving the car lot without the truck. It hasa leaky valve cover gasket, missing dust cover on the flywheel and a bad battery. The first thing I did was drive it(after a jump start) to the battery shop. The nice man put a new battery in, tested the charging system and even replaced the connectors. It's still grounded to the exhaust manifold or something but not where it is supposed to be. On the engine block? Right now I am loading it with concrete from a slap I am destroying. How much concrete can I put in that longbed? I want to overload it somewhat but I don't want to hurt the truck either. Concrete b heavy. I am trying to load it as near to the cab as I can. Question: Radial or Bias? Do they still use Bias tires? Are there any benefits? Dan == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 00:07:55 EDT From: TBeeee aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Water leak In a message dated 10/8/99 10:43:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dpeters smart.net writes: > Sorry, forgot to mention the engine is a 240 6 cyl. Not very exciting, but > handy. > That engine has both a freeze plug in the rear of the head and in the block behind the engine rear cover plate (metal spacer between block and bell housing). I have never seen either of those two rust out and leak. The likelihood of a crack in that section of the block would be slim to none. Therefore, Wish's suggestion of a head gasket leak is very probable. The back of the block has two large water passages and only a very thin section of gasket material to seal it. The head gasket can easily rust from the inside out and develop a leak under pressure. You should be able to look up at the back of the engine from underneath the truck. Perhaps if you position yourself just right you might find where the leak is coming from. Don't forget to chock the wheels and set the emergency brake if you crawl under there with the engine running. Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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