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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #364
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61-79-list-digest Thursday, October 7 1999 Volume 03 : Number 364



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - losing gas - fuel pump replaced
RE: FTE 61-79 - Howling
Re: FTE 61-79 - Howling
FTE 61-79 - Re: Rear axle ratio
RE: FTE 61-79 - 74 F250 4X4 w full floating axle Brake job questi on
RE: FTE 61-79 - NO OIL PRESURE!
RE: FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio
FTE 61-79 - RE:Stainless & Chrome
RE: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rims and tires
RE: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!!
FTE 61-79 - Stainless Bolts
FTE 61-79 - Re: WOOOOOSHHH!!!!
FTE 61-79 - Re: EFI Computers and such
RE: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!!
FTE 61-79 - Re: 390 Buildup!
FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome
Re: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies
FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460?
FTE 61-79 - starts - dies
RE: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!!
RE: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies
FTE 61-79 - 73 F250 P/S
RE: FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome
FTE 61-79 - standard cab/ supercab swap?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 73 F250 P/S
Re: FTE 61-79 - standard cab/ supercab swap?
RE: FTE 61-79 - standard cab/ supercab swap?
FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4)
RE: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4)
RE: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4)
FTE 61-79 - Divorced NP205 Rebuild Price / Info
FTE 61-79 - Unibody ?
FTE 61-79 - Dana 60/Howling
Re: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: WOOOOOSHHH!!!!
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: EFI Computers, knock sensors etc...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio
FTE 61-79 - No real offroad talk
Re: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio
FTE 61-79 - Stalling 352
FTE 61-79 - lightening bolt
FTE 61-79 - 402
FTE 61-79 - web deprived
re: FTE 61-79 - lightening bolt
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio
FTE 61-79 - '70 econoline
Re: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460?

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 07:54:52 -0501
From:
Subject: FTE 61-79 - losing gas - fuel pump replaced

Got the new fuel pump in last night. So far, no more starting problems.
Thanks for the help.
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 08:24:28 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Howling

> I have a howl coming from either the rear end or the carrier
> bearing.The colder the temp the louder the howl.
> Any Ideas?

Does it howl all the time ? Usually if its the rear-end it'll be quiet on
acceleration, but coasting or decelerating can cause a heck of a whine ...

If its fairly constant, then I'd look at the carrier bearing ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 09:38:48 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Howling

William S. Hart wrote:
>
> > I have a howl coming from either the rear end or the carrier
> > bearing.The colder the temp the louder the howl.
> > Any Ideas?
>
> Does it howl all the time ? Usually if its the rear-end it'll be quiet on
> acceleration, but coasting or decelerating can cause a heck of a whine ...
>

My 79, 9" does just the opposite. It whines like a motha under
cruise/accel, but is quiet on decel/coast :-).

OX


> If its fairly constant, then I'd look at the carrier bearing ...
>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
> 96 Mustang GT 4.6L
> 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 08:44:53 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rear axle ratio

its pretty easy.If you have an open differential you just jack one wheel
up, put the vehicle in nuetral and make a mark on the driveshaft. then
you rotate the tire 2 full revolutions (the spider gears rotating is why
you have to do 2 turns) and count the # of times your driveshaft mark
makes a revolution. that is your ratio.. (ie. little more than 4
revolutions would mean a 4.10:1 ratio, little less the 4 revolutions
would probably be 3.89:1 etc...)

if you have posi traction or a locker (where you cant get the tires to
turn independantly) you just jack both tires up and make just 1
revolution with the tires. (they will turn together and take any kind of
"spider gears" out of the equasion) and count the number of times the
driveshaft rotates.

these wil just give you a "good idea" of what your gearset is. if you
need to know the exact ratio (in case you are ordering gears) I would
recommend going ahead and pulling the axles out and dropping the third
member to get the actual ratio that is stamped into the edge of the ring
gear.

Hope this helpa ya, Danny Ling

(pre 77 1/2) 77 F250 Highboy 4X4, 429 "Thunder Jet"

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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:51:15 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 74 F250 4X4 w full floating axle Brake job questi on

Gentlemen, it is feel but.......there is a spec for the bearing "non
preload". It's called preload but it results in the bearing not being
preloaded at all. The goal is actually "Zero" preload, not too loose and
not too tight. Torquing sets the races, not the bearings and is just for
that purpose. You have to back it out until you have zero to 0.010" axial
free play on virtually all tapered type bearings.

This may actually be what you meant here but the word "Tight" got my
attention :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Put the outer bearing on, it's all feel here-- some do it
> differently than
> others, so I said the HeX with it and put them down to the
> same tight (but
> snug) feeling
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:06:30 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - NO OIL PRESURE!

If you mean "stock" gauge then it could be the sender or the plug at the end
of the sender wire which gets corroded and weak so you need to squash it a
tad with some pliers to get a good connnection. Put silicone grease on it
while you're are at it.

If you mean an after market mechanical gauge then I think you have a problem
:-( If you are not dumping oil on the ground via one of the gallery plugs
or into the coolant in which case you would know it when the dip stick comes
up dry, then it's leaking internally via the bearings which could be due to
many things.

When trouble shooting, do the simple stuff first and work toward the harder
stuff. Inspect the connection and correct it, change the sender, change the
gauge, pull the pan......in that order :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> no oil pressure showing on the gauge. I installed another
> gauge today and
> still no pressure showing. I start it and it makes slight
> noises from the
> lifters but not the kind you would expect if there was no oil
> getting to
> them.
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:19:33 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome

Use Anti-Seize on them and it will be fine as long as you like to leave it.
Stainless typically is not as strong as grade 8 steel nuts and bolts but for
some applications it will suffice. Valve cover and pan bolts come to mind
but head, rod, main cap, flywheel, damper, engine mount and other stuctural,
high torque bolts must be made of the correct material for the application.
Most of these are grade 8 steel. There is no stainless material I know of
used for bolts which can do these jobs safely. If you make it hard enough
it will crack, if not it's too soft.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I need to know if using a regular chrome plated nut on
> a stainless bolt
> would have any adverse affects? It's only temporary until I
> can find the
> right stainless nuts. I'm having a heck of a time finding
> "5/16-24 and
> '3/8-24 stainless nuts. No luck at Lowe's, Ace Hardware, or
> any of the auto
> parts stores. I e-mailed Totally Stainless 3 days ago and
> still haven't
> gotten a reply. If anyone knows a reliable source, PLEASE let me know.
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:21:49 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio

> All,
> Is there a simple way to determine the gear ratio for a 9" rear
> end without
> taking the pumpkin out?
> I thought I saw a thread about that a few months ago.
> TIA,

I noticed this one got skipped yesterday, so I'll add my 2 cents in just so
you know there are a couple things to try ...

1) check the rear for a tag, in the lower left hand (?) corner there should
be some numbers ... maybe a 3 50 or something similar ...

2) the other method is to jack up one wheel and spin it over twice .. the
number of turns of the D.S. for the 2 turns of the wheel is your gear ratio
... if you have a limited slip diff, you'll need to jack up both wheels and
spin them once instead of twice...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:33:28 -0400
From: "james burnette"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Stainless & Chrome

One of the best places I've found for stainless hardware is at a boating
supply store such as Boat US.

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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:39:45 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies

My bronco starts most of the time with no activity from the accellerator
pedal but most vehicles I've owned, including my favorite 460 require
several pumps of the pedal if you are to have any hope whatsoever of hearing
it fire much less start and run. I attribute the leaky, over rich nature of
the 600 cfm Holley replacement carb to the easy starts in the bronco and a
very good accellerator pump to all the others :-)

After an engine sits for a while, even over night some fuel evaporates and
fuel line pressure drops off (on carbed engines) so that first few turns of
the engine rely on the choke to "Pull" fuel into the carb and venturis for a
quick start. Even with a good, fully closed choke some carbs still insist
on a few pumps of juice.

I agree with Azie (the brook :-)) that first check for fuel via the pumps
then make sure the choke works as designed. Again these are the simple
things you can do to diagnose the problem and don't cost a cent :-) If the
choke is adjusted right and you are not getting any fuel after it sits for a
few days but you do get fuel once running and shut off again (indicating the
bowls are full and the accellerator pumps are, indeed, working) then the
fuel pump, line, filter, tank vent etc. could be the problem.

If you don't care about economy or tipin and want good starts, put a Holley
on it......:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> that was my first thought too Azie, but it should idle
> without stalling, the
> accelerator pump is used only when the gas is stepped on to
> help accelerate
> the motor
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:12:56 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rims and tires

I would venture to guess it has 5 x 5-1/2" bolt circle and 6 x 15" rims.
This rim size is good for up to about 8.5-9" tread width and is really made
for 235r75-15 size tires which also happen to be about the same as the old
"H" size found on trucks of that vintage. Typically about 28-29" diameter
and about 8" wide.

Double check the lug pattern to be sure but it should be as above.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I am going to buy American Racing rims for my '67 F100
> Longbed, 1/2 ton. I
> was wondering what size to get so that they will be the same
> size as my
> original ones. Also, what tire size do I need to get for
> these rims. I want
> the same circumference as my original tires, or maybe a
> little bigger, but I
> want pickup tires with a kinda thick tread, cause I do a lot
> of off-road
> driving too :)
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:56:26 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!!

Is your tank behind the seat? All of this type I'm aware of have vented
caps but if it's located in the rear between the frame rails it may be the
sealed type. Most of the advice is on the mark but you may be able to find
a cap with larger diameter and smooth top to work in your instance. After
market, fancy ones often are easier to work with and locking caps are very
easy but you have to remember to grab the key every time (I find that to be
a pain :-)) My old van had a couple of them inside since they tend to fall
apart too at the most inconvenient times and the pieces fall down the fill
tube.....:-(

One other thing you might try is to lube the rubber gasket in the cap with
ordinary grease or even a little motor oil to see if that helps. The dry
rubber does the same thing in the filler tube that your tires do on the
pavement.......:-) If you have a stick of "Door Ease" lying around that
might even be a good thing to try.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> to deal w/ all the problems LOL My gas cap is metal and since
> it has suction
> on it or whatever, it's nearly impossible to unscrew
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 08:03:09 -0700
From: Brian Koss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stainless Bolts

The best place I have found is McMaster-Carr Supply Company. It is pretty
much the bible on what is available and they are fairly priced. They have
their catalog on line. Not sure of the of the URL. There catalog p/n for
5/16-24 and 3/8-24 316 Hex Nuts are 94841AA030 and 94841A031. Price is
$19.25 and $23.50 for a package of 100. Says less than full package
quanities are available at 10%-25% more. Phone in LA is 1-562-692-5911.


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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 11:15:59 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: WOOOOOSHHH!!!!

Will said:

> Okay, here's the deal as far as i've seen it go ... there are 2 different
> systems we're talking about here ... one is the old style, which consists
> of a vented cap to let air in or out as necessary, the other is the newer
> "recovery" style which is supposed to take expanding air, pass it through
> the charcoal canister to get the "bad stuff" out and then go into the air
> cleaner so it gets burned with the rest of the air/fuel mixture...(snip)

Just to add more to this long thread ... The system on the first generation
Econoline/Club Wagons is a vent tube exiting the top of the tank. The gas
cap is NON-vented.

The vent tube runs to the side of the truck, then makes a 90 degree bend
upward. About 12" later, it turns 180 degrees to point downward and then
bends again so this it's flat. There is no recovery. It is a similar system
to other Ford autos in the 60s. In particular, I know that the Falcons had
something similar, and it usually gets plugged after 30+ years -- and with
the design of the filler tube in the rear panel, it usually results in
sloooow filling and puking gas. The trucks are much better since the filler
and vent tubes are longer and more vertical, but a plugged vent line will
cause a partial vacuum in the tank (if you have a non-vented cap and vent
tube arrangement), as Wish said in a previous post.

I'm not sure if this is helpful to Lisa as I'm honestly not sure whether
her truck has a recovery system or vent tube.

- -don

- --
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles


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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 08:18:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: EFI Computers and such

Bill,

That is a good question, but it is one that I have
considered. A knock detector is an audio pickup
device, like a microphone. The circuitry is tuned to
the particular frequency that is associated with a
knock. All that is required is that the detector be in
close contact with the motor. Any hole will do. The
oil pressure switch is one that comes to mind. A
manifold port may work as well. A crankcase vent would
propably be ideal.
I did some further checking on Jacobs, their unit
changes the spark duration based on mixture, not the
timing.
I believe there is some confusion, at least on my part
between the terms 'detonation' and 'knock'. Detonation
is something that occurs on Supercharged engines at
high RPMs. Knock is Octane Knock or pinging and is due
to low octane fuel under high compression burning too
fast and producing a shock wave which in turn produces
an audible sound. This effect occurs at low RPMs under
heavy load.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V


From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI, Computers and such
I'm curious about where/how you're going to install
the knock sensor.
"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them
with bullets"
- - -----Original Message-----From: Dan Lee

To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

Date: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 8:22 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - EFI, Computers and such>
>I read the recent thread about EFI and would love a
>reasonably priced EFI on my 400. In the meantime I
>would settle for a ignition computer that supports a
>knock sensor, since my 400 has 10.2:1 compression
>ratio. I would like to drop some total advance when
>the knock sensor detects detonation. I know that MSD
>makes a unit that will do that for turbos, but that's
>based on boost not detonation. Jacobs also makes a
>computer that they claim is suitable for this engine,
>but I am trying to get the details on this unit. Does
>anyone know of anything available with
this>capability?


=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:19:00 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!!

> One other thing you might try is to lube the rubber gasket in
> the cap with
> ordinary grease or even a little motor oil to see if that helps. The dry
> rubber does the same thing in the filler tube that your tires do on the
> pavement.......:-) If you have a stick of "Door Ease" lying around that
> might even be a good thing to try.

are you trying to make things worse, or what's the deal here ? I'm not
following something ... won't lubing this stuff up actually make it seal
better ? so wouldn't that create more pressure (if that's possible) ? or
are you just talkin for ease of removal so she doesn't hurt her hands ?

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:08:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: "J. Allison"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 390 Buildup!

Howdy Folks!

I was poking around the magazine rack yesterday at
the local Walmart and noticed an article on a 390
buildup. I didn't really have time to look at it in an
in depth fashion but for all those interested it might
be worth perusing. It's in the newest issue of Mustang
Monthly if I remember correctly.
On to other things... Hey! Tony Marino!!! Wake up!
I'm STILL waiting for that dang inline6.com to come
online. Are you going to make me come on up there and
open a can of whoop or should I just do it myself on
my own slower than a seven year itch confuser? :) Try
to tear yourself away from your great hoard of Ford
iron for long enough to let the rest of us know the
inside secrets to the almighty Ford 300 I-6. Should I
appease the I-6 king with my own tech article? Should
I just shut up now while I'm only 10 yards behind?
Tune in next week when I'll actually have the time to
post an 'official' apology to Mr. Marino for letting
the cat outta the bag about his future(?) website. And
to think I had the gaul to bring it up in public when
it's already on his own blasted website... The nerve!
Peace and good Ford vibes... J. Allison

PS Sorry if I brought up the 390 article after
somebody else did. I haven't caught up on the last 1
1/2 weeks worth of digests yet :(

=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:17:26 -0700
From: djohnson lem10.med.navy.mil (Douglas Johnson)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome

Re: FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome
> If anyone knows a reliable source, PLEASE let me know.

I've had excellant service using KAR Products. Big nationwide company with
local service reps, try
1-800-527-7763 0700-1800 C.S.T. or fax them 1-800-527-1003 24/7. We use
their fasteners at work here,
verry nice selection and good quality. Just call and ask for your local
service rep, but if that doesn't work,
let me know and I can try and send a few out to you.

"Doc" Johnson
64 F100
"Behind every live Marine is a good Corpsman"Re:

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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:22:46 EDT
From: SevnD2 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies

Ok , I have been following this thread and something being overlooked is the
ignition . I can't recall wheather this truck has electronic ignition or not
. If it does then this is a problem associated with a bad module . I know of
some cases of this start and die syndrome where the module will allow the
engine to start and then as you released the key from start position it will
die ! I read the repair manual for this problem , and the wiring diagram
shows voltage on one of the ignition wires when starting and then zero
voltage when the key is released . As far as I know there isn't any way to
repair the module , just replace it .
Hope this helps !
Rollie H. Hunt
King , N. C.
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 11:41:11 -0500
From: David.R.John deluxe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460?

I have a 460 with a casting number of D1VE A2B this means 1971 block right?
Therefore it should be internally balanced right? Well when I pulled the
motor to address my blowby issue I recall seeing a lobe (a weighted thingy)
behind the harmonic balancer does this suggest externally balanced. I do
not recall seeing any weights on the flywheel (I will double check).
Ultimately as you all may know I am swapping the 4spd for an auto.....so do
I need a special flexplate (whatever the term is for the auto flywheel) for
this if it is externally balanced? Any way to positively know how it is
balanced? Thanks again for all your help. Please respond to me directly
along with the list, so I can use this info tomorrow when the reassembly
starts.

David
1978 F250 4x4 460 Supercab 4spd=>auto
1978 F250 4x4 400 regular (donor truck)

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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:06:52 -0501
From:
Subject: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies

>SevnD2 aol.com
>I can't recall wheather this truck has electronic ignition or not
>. If it does then this is a problem associated with a bad module . I know of
>some cases of this start and die syndrome where the module will allow the
>engine to start and then as you released the key from start position it will
>die !

It has points. I ruled out ignition as a problem early since it will start and run once I
added priming gas to the carb.(Also the points coil and plug wires were all less
than month old).

Just for information. Shortly after the truck started having the start and die
problem (Sunday) - it also began "hesitating" at random times, but only happened a
maybe 3 times until it finally died for good. New fuel pump from NAPA ($32 with
tax) and so far so good.

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:51:53 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!!

It's obviously already well sealed or the pressure/vacuum would not exist so
lubing the rubber gasket can't add anything to the mix but certainly will
help to get it on and off :-) Just don't use Peanut butter or margarine or
some other material which might not be compatible with the gas :-) You
might give it gas........

Next time you change oil in your engine, wipe the adapter completely dry and
clean it with brake cleaner and then attempt to screw on the new filter with
no lube on the gasket. Can you see the problem? Why do the directons
always say to lube the gasket? Why do these cheap gas caps with the ears
have ears on them?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> following something ... won't lubing this stuff up actually
> make it seal
> better ? so wouldn't that create more pressure (if that's
> possible) ? or
> are you just talkin for ease of removal so she doesn't hurt
> her hands ?
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 13:13:40 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies

Absolutely right.....almost :-) In the case you speak of the engine would
not stay running no matter how you got it to start. In his case it will run
but only after he gets it primed. The two wires you speak of are the
"start" and "Run" circuits and the start circuit only has voltage when the
ignition key is in the full start position to engage the starter. That wire
is actually energized by the start relay when the key is turned. The other
wire has about 8 volts on it in the run position and is only energized when
the key is released. Unlike the start wire it receives it's power via the
ignition switch.

In the case of points the current from these wires goes directly to the
dizzy/coil but in electronic systems it goes to the module first and this
feeds the dizzy/coil. The module can then fail to deliver the voltage or it
can short and deliver only part of the voltage or it can deliver it only
when cold and when it warms up it opens so no voltage is present at the
dizzy etc.. It can also short between the white and red wires causing the
starter to run on by backfeeding the start relay via the start ignition wire
(Don't ask :-)).

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> . If it does then this is a problem associated with a bad
> module . I know of
> some cases of this start and die syndrome where the module
> will allow the
> engine to start and then as you released the key from start
> position it will
> die !
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 11:55:14 -0600
From: Bret Godfrey
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 73 F250 P/S

I have the 77' p/s setup that is shot and in need of
replacement. I was talking to a guy I work with, and he said that a p/s
unit off a 1 ton international truck would bolt right up to my frame and
pitman arm, which would allow me to get rid of all that power assist
sh*t. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing, or had any experience with
it.


Bret G.
77' f250
4x4


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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 13:30:32 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome

At 10:19 AM 10/7/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Use Anti-Seize on them and it will be fine as long as you like to leave it.
>Stainless typically is not as strong as grade 8 steel nuts and bolts but for
>some applications it will suffice. Valve cover and pan bolts come to mind
>but head, rod, main cap, flywheel, damper, engine mount and other stuctural,
>high torque bolts must be made of the correct material for the application.
>Most of these are grade 8 steel. There is no stainless material I know of
>used for bolts which can do these jobs safely. If you make it hard enough
>it will crack, if not it's too soft.
>
>--
>Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
>78 Bronco Loving, Gary
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
>--

Thanks for all the answers. I bought a lifetime sized bottle of
Never-Seize the other day. These fasteners are gonna be used for the core
support and fenders, inner fenders, etc. I'll check out the other
suggestions as I get the time.
I found out last night at work, a guy I had seen around the plant
for about the last 8 or 9 years, is actually a sales rep for Famous Supply.
I always thought he was a big shot from the other offices. I'll check with
him and see if he can fix me up.

Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH
' 64 F-250
352 transplant
4 speed



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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:14:30 -0600
From: Bret Godfrey
Subject: FTE 61-79 - standard cab/ supercab swap?

Hello all,

With my growing family it is getting harder and harder to all pile into
the 77' and go for a ride. Is it at all possible to swap out my
standard cab long bed for a super cab short bed, or a super cab with a
custom made flatbed? I happen to know where I can find a 78' super cab
that is being parted out and could probably pick up the cab for a pretty
reasonable price. I would appreciate anyone's input on this subject.

Bret G.
77' f250
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:43:46 -0500
From: "Brett Yerks"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 73 F250 P/S

Never heard of that but if you can do some welding and cutting with a torch
I highly recommend swapping your steering to the 78-79 style. I'm assuming
you are talking about the funky hydraulic assist steering that usually leaks
like a sieve.
It really is a pretty straight forward swap, a friend and I accomplished the
swap in a day, probably about 8 hours with lots of breaks and not working
all that hard. The hardest part is just getting the box lined up with
everything and making sure the pitman arm clears the frame and leaf spring.
There is an excellent write up on the ford-trucks website:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/powerassist.html Read that and it
should be a pretty easy job.

Brett
76 F250
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/fbird


> I have the 77' p/s setup that is shot and in need of
> replacement. I was talking to a guy I work with, and he said that a p/s
> unit off a 1 ton international truck would bolt right up to my frame and
> pitman arm, which would allow me to get rid of all that power assist
> sh*t. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing, or had any experience with
> it.
>
>
> Bret G.
> 77' f250
> 4x4


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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 13:04:09 -0500
From: Craig Cantrell
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - standard cab/ supercab swap?

Anybody out there can quickly give me the timing for a 67 240 CI Six?
- --
Craig
- --
1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149
"Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle
President, South Central Kansas Mustang Club
See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc


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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 13:07:56 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - standard cab/ supercab swap?

> With my growing family it is getting harder and harder to all pile into
> the 77' and go for a ride. Is it at all possible to swap out my
> standard cab long bed for a super cab short bed, or a super cab with a
> custom made flatbed?


I think you will have to fiddle with the cab mounts, and go with the flat
bed ... if I remember right the regular cab long bed is 133" wheel base
while the extended cab-short bed is 140 and the Super Camper Special (F350)
is a 139" wheel base ...

anyone got corrections on that one ???


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 12:13:08 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4)

Hi im still trying to figure out how to get the drums off the front. I
bought the special tool for the rear is one required for the front as
well, there looks to be a lock nut but (has 4 square notches cut into
it, not like a regular nut that a socket would fit over) is this all
that's left to be removed before the drum will slide off?

Thanks
Kirk Baillie
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 13:09:35 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460?

> I have a 460 with a casting number of D1VE A2B this means 1971
> block right?

Yup ... but ...

> Therefore it should be internally balanced right? Well when I pulled the
> motor to address my blowby issue I recall seeing a lobe (a
> weighted thingy)
> behind the harmonic balancer does this suggest externally balanced. I do
> not recall seeing any weights on the flywheel (I will double check).


here's a question for you ... what year is the crank ? I wouldn't think the
block would determine whether it was an internally or externally balanced
motor, but rather the crank would, as an internally balanced crank will
probably weigh a bit more than the externally balanced one ... also this
will affect the fly wheel questions, as they take different ones for
internal vs. external balance...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 14:10:49 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460?

If it is a 71 then it is internally balanced but someone could have put a
later damper on it or the lug could be counter balancing some internal hole
in the damper itself, not sure. Get a flex plate for a pre-79 460 or 429
unless you suspect that the engine is not original in which case it could
have any number of mixed parts. In that case I would have it balanced at a
shop to make sure.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> weighted thingy)
> behind the harmonic balancer does this suggest externally
> balanced. I do
> not recall seeing any weights on the flywheel (I will double check).
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 11:15:22 -0700
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4)

There is a special socket for the front too. Most good parts stores should
have one. I have also used a chisel and a hammer to loosen those, but be
careful...

- -----Original Message-----
From: Kirk Baillie [mailto:kbaillie home.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 07, 1999 11:13 AM
To: Ford list
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4)


Hi im still trying to figure out how to get the drums off the front. I
bought the special tool for the rear is one required for the front as
well, there looks to be a lock nut but (has 4 square notches cut into
it, not like a regular nut that a socket would fit over) is this all
that's left to be removed before the drum will slide off?

Thanks
Kirk Baillie
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 14:17:30 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4)

Yup-- those sockets are available at just about every auto parts store-- as
soon as you take them off, you'll see the same exact thing that was in the
rear-- only instead of an aluminum crush washer between the nuts, the INNER
nut is different from the outer-- on the inner nut there is a pin that is
pressed into it-- this pin will line up with a hole in the washer that is
between the two nuts.. MAKE SURE when you put it back together you get that
pin in one of the washer holes, or bad bad bad things will happen as the
pin gets smashed, those metal shards get in the bearings, and the nuts all
loosen up.. 8-)

Good luck-

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

At 12:13 PM 10/7/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Hi im still trying to figure out how to get the drums off the front. I
>bought the special tool for the rear is one required for the front as
>well, there looks to be a lock nut but (has 4 square notches cut into
>it, not like a regular nut that a socket would fit over) is this all
>that's left to be removed before the drum will slide off?
>
>Thanks
>Kirk Baillie
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 13:26:49 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4)

> Hi im still trying to figure out how to get the drums off the front. I
> bought the special tool for the rear is one required for the front as
> well, there looks to be a lock nut but (has 4 square notches cut into
> it, not like a regular nut that a socket would fit over) is this all
> that's left to be removed before the drum will slide off?
>

Yup, well there's 2 and a locking tab between them, but same deal as the
rear... I can't remember the price, but its another "special tool" that you
only need to buy once ... maybe someone else who works on 4x4's will loan it
to you ... it works on most things with the Dana front axle, though they're
getting harder to find, most auto-parts stores will carry them ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 14:26:17 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Divorced NP205 Rebuild Price / Info

Hey All-

I realize this to be an ambiguous question right from the start, but who
here has had their transfer case rebuilt by a shop?

The transfer in my '76 has every yoke loose on the shafts, and every shaft
is loose on the bearings, not to mention it leaks a little fluid, so I
figure I would have a shop rebuild the sucker because I really don't feel
like messin' with it because it seems to need a substancial amount of work
done to it.

Where I live, there are literally about 40 tranny shops in the immediate
area (Akron, Ohio) and of those shops, about 10 of them are willing to do
the transfer case... Out of those 10, only ONE guy from my phone call
sounds like a winner to do it-- He drives a '74 F-250 4x4 himself, and owns
the shop. He said the WORST case scenario, he'll have the T-case a week,
and if it's too bad, he'll have to locate me a new one.

These are my questions-- How much should a TOTAL rebuild cost? If my case
proves to be too bad to rebuilt, what should I pay for another one? (I run
across them every couple of months for about $100 bucks or so, but never
picked them up, but if I need one right away, and he finds one, what's
reasonable? How much should I wrap up into this?

Does anybody near Akron, Ohio have a spare Spicer-24 or NP205 they want to
get rid of? ;-)

Thanks

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 11:41:09 -0700
From: "Bill Deacon"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Unibody ?

Why did Ford decide to make the Unibody? Was it strictly a styling thing?
Are there any problems and/or characteristics that these trucks have
compared to their conventional counterparts from the same era?


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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 11:53:38 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60/Howling

>Between the two nuts that you can see once you pull the axle shaft out,
>there is a crush washer on a little keyway-- it has a bunch of bendable
>ears on it that fold over the flat spots on the nuts,

Might want a set of these lock washers on hand,I had one that I bent
one too many times and it failed causing the nut to tighten as I drove.
Locked up the right rear.Massive tow bill etc.etc...

> I have a howl coming from either the rear end or the carrier
> bearing.The colder the temp the louder the howl.
> Any Ideas?
..........

> Perhaps the rear end is low on fluid? I'd imagine that if it is >low, then you've got a bad wheel seal or pinion seal which needs >replaced.

>Do you hear & feel a "clunk" when changing between forward and reverse

When it started howling I changed the fluid,I don't have any clunks.
gears?
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:02:55 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!!

In a message dated 10/07/1999 3:34:31 AM !!!First Boot!!!,
danger csolutions.net writes:


the local auto parts store and buy another set of locking caps for my other
truck before somebody helps themselves to 45 gallons worth of premium
about $1.50 per gallon! >>

I love my baby and all, but she'll just have to settle with 87 octane cuz I
AM BROKE! LOL She does just fine w/ that, but maybe I'll give her a treat of
92 octane on payday hehe!

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!!~*~*
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:07:31 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: WOOOOOSHHH!!!!

In a message dated 10/07/1999 3:17:36 PM !!!First Boot!!!, haring fedora.net
writes:


her truck has a recovery system or vent tube. >>

I know I should know the answer to this question but big surprise I don't LOL
I recall Darrell said I do have a recovery system on my truck?? Is this right?

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for girls!~*~*
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:14:28 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: EFI Computers, knock sensors etc...

AFAIK these are both a form of detonation. I've heard this fast burning
shock wave theory too but I believe it's been documented that the fast flame
front compresses the fuel until it explodes which is detonation. Detonation
simpley means that some or all of the fuel is caused to ignite
simultaneously due to pressure and heat instead of burn progressively. It's
more serious in supercharged, high HP engines because everything is
multiplied but it's still the same thing AFAIK?? The other thing that
confuses the issue is called "pre-ignition" which is where some hot spot or
particle or even the ignition itself causes the charge to light before it's
supposed to.

I think what messes us up is that it's called "Spark Knock". Retarding the
spark has "some" effect because it doesn't allow the cylinder pressure to
get as high due to a late fire sequence. Less pressure, less heat, less
likely to detonate. In my experience, an engine that is prone to knock can
not be set up to run efficiently and therefore will not get very good
mileage unless you allow it to knock. I've tried retarding the spark on
many engines to eliminate the knock but they still knock under certain
conditions no matter how you set them up and if you retard the spark enough
so there is "no" knock it will not even run. IMNSHO, spark knock is the
product of an engine's combustion chamber design or manufactured in flaws.
Certain engines seem to have more trouble with it than others. The 70, 250
six was a good example. Fairly high compression with a not so well designed
chamber caused this engine to knock under any load at any speed unless you
ran premium in it but the book recommended regular.

If you run premium in an engine with low compression it will not burn
efficiently and you will waste your money trying to make it do so in many
cases so these engines are basically lemons from the get go :-( The service
guys at the dealer will tell you that modern, EFI engines are made to run on
regular and actually will not run very well on premium. One I talked to
said he gets lots of complaints of that sort and every time, returning to
regular fixes the problem.

All the M blocks I've had do the same thing. If you attempt to advance the
timing so you can get some economy out of them they will knock your socks
off :-( This is undoubtedly the result of cam design, ignition timing and
combustion chamber design. The 460 can be run at fairly high compressions
on regular gas with no trouble, many others can't.

I backed my bronco down till I was pretty satisfied with the knock at low
speed/heavy load and noticed a very pronounced loss in power and it began to
surge at cruise. The difference between that and where it is now is only a
few degrees, about 4 I think and just adding two more makes it all but
undriveable since you can't allow any pressure on it at low speeds. I'm
running 8 degrees right now and at 10 it cruises much better and gets better
economy but knocks too much going through the gears.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I believe there is some confusion, at least on my part
> between the terms 'detonation' and 'knock'. Detonation
> is something that occurs on Supercharged engines at
> high RPMs. Knock is Octane Knock or pinging and is due
> to low octane fuel under high compression burning too
> fast and producing a shock wave which in turn produces
> an audible sound. This effect occurs at low RPMs under
> heavy load.
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:19:09 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio

In a message dated 10/07/1999 2:24:44 PM !!!First Boot!!!, wish iastate.edu
writes:


> Is there a simple way to determine the gear ratio for a 9" rear
> end without
> taking the pumpkin out? >>

What's a pumpkin??
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:20:14 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - No real offroad talk


think it takes everyone a little time to adjust and learn the ropes. Yes
there
is useful information here but people also find it a place to chat, or vent
or
what ever. Now if Filly and Larry will make up (and Wish will stop helping
;)
we can get back to our regularly scheduled programing >>

I'm still new here silly! I think I am probably the most clueless person on
the list and y'all are a lot more
knowledgeable about stuff like this. Even though my posts may be a lil off
subject, they in SOME way, have to do with trucks, I can guarantee that. Its
not like I post what color my fingernail polish is or who I am goin to the
school dance with LOL And for the record I'm not mad at Larry
Wish!!!> I was just responding with my P.O.V on things =)

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!!!~*~*
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 13:24:18 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4)

Thanks William, just got back from the store, cost was $13.00 bucks but
now I have it for life. Another couple of tools to add to my never
ending collection :)

"William S. Hart" wrote:
>
> > Hi im still trying to figure out how to get the drums off the front. I
> > bought the special tool for the rear is one required for the front as
> > well, there looks to be a lock nut but (has 4 square notches cut into
> > it, not like a regular nut that a socket would fit over) is this all
> > that's left to be removed before the drum will slide off?
> >
>
> Yup, well there's 2 and a locking tab between them, but same deal as the
> rear... I can't remember the price, but its another "special tool" that you
> only need to buy once ... maybe someone else who works on 4x4's will loan it
> to you ... it works on most things with the Dana front axle, though they're
> getting harder to find, most auto-parts stores will carry them ...
>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
> 96 Mustang GT 4.6L
> 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 14:37:36 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio

Lisa

Some dif come apart by taking the rounded back off. i.e pumpkin

The 9" comes apart by unbolting the front and pulling all the gears out.

Later



At 03:19 PM 10/7/99 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 10/07/1999 2:24:44 PM !!!First Boot!!!, wish iastate.edu
>writes:
>
>
> > Is there a simple way to determine the gear ratio for a 9" rear
> > end without
> > taking the pumpkin out? >>
>
>What's a pumpkin??
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:36:25 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stalling 352

Wish writes>>

>>that was my first thought too Azie, but it should idle without stalling, the
accelerator pump is used only when the gas is stepped on to help accelerate
the motor ... your method of checking is exactly right on though, and I
would definitely check it if the fuel pump doesn't fix things

But Wish - read his last statement again>>
:::: Once started in this
> manner it runs fine.
> Seems to me the carb bowl is not holding gas

Once started it runs fine !!!!! Doesn't that mean it will idle, once he gets
it past the starting stage???? I think he means he has to start it multiple
times before he gets it to idle/run ----- Maybe not.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:47:20 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - lightening bolt

Someone writes: >>what's the deal with the gear and lightning bolt on the
rubber
> flooring? I haven't seen it again on any ford trucks as I rummaged
> throught them in the salvage yard.

If I'm not mistaken this is early '60's and maybe 50's emblem for the 6 cyl ford
trucks.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:49:52 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 402

Brian writes: >>My motor (402cid) is a little beyond stock itself. I'm told
I'll run out of
carb (750cfm) before I run out of motor. Aluminum Performer RPM intake,
Aluminum Performer Heads, TRW forged pistons, adjustable rockers, electronic
ignition, hydraulic cam (270/290), custom headers, etc...

Again, I'm talking a lot of theoretical numbers here, and I will likely never
push it over 100mph myself - unless I can get a shot at a test/race track
somewhere (Brainerd Int'l Raceway comes to mind). My uncles may push it after
the shakedown - they're a little more experienced in such matters.

All this will be going into a short-box stepside: short wheel base, big tires,
power steering, and 4-wheel brakes. I'm more interested in surviving driving my
truck than hitting 130m

I don't think the 750CFM will run out of capacity on the 402. Unless you've
modified the oiling system and put in some different lifters, and valve springs,
you are going to experience lifter collapse or valve float long before the carb
reaches its maximum flow. The FE's are (in my not so humble opinion) one of the
toughest engines ever built and I've had litterally bunches of them, but unless
you do some mods to the oil passages the lifters will collapse, and the factory
valve springs tend to let the valves float any where from 5500-6500 RPMs. The
crankshaft tends to have some oiling problems on #4 and #1 main also.
Keep it below 5000 and it will last a very long time.
I wish you success on your project. You may run out of cam before you run out
of carb from looking at your #'s.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:52:24 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - web deprived

Wish writes: >>Azie, or any of you other web-deprived readers, its all text, so
if you want
an emailed copy, lemme know ...

Yeah !!! I'd like that --- even if I do babble.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.
AM14 DaimlerChrysler.com


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 14:58:21 -0500
From: "Alex Beshirs"
Subject: re: FTE 61-79 - lightening bolt

>Someone writes: >>what's the deal with the gear and lightning bolt on the
>rubber
>> flooring? I haven't seen it again on any ford trucks as I rummaged
>> throught them in the salvage yard.

>If I'm not mistaken this is early '60's and maybe 50's emblem for the 6 cyl
ford
>trucks.

>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.


I got a ' 68 F-100, and I got it on mine, so I reckon it ran on into to the
late 60's at least.

Plowboy
Dallas, Tx

Men stumble over the truth from time to time, but most pick themselves up
and hurry off as if nothing happened -- Winston Churchill

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:06:21 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio

>
> > Is there a simple way to determine the gear ratio for a 9" rear
> > end without
....


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