 |
|
|
|
|
|
From: owner-61-79-list-digest
 ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest) To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #364 Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Errors-To: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Precedence: bulk 61-79-list-digest Thursday, October 7 1999 Volume 03 : Number 364 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: FTE 61-79 - losing gas - fuel pump replaced RE: FTE 61-79 - Howling Re: FTE 61-79 - Howling FTE 61-79 - Re: Rear axle ratio RE: FTE 61-79 - 74 F250 4X4 w full floating axle Brake job questi on RE: FTE 61-79 - NO OIL PRESURE! RE: FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio FTE 61-79 - RE:Stainless & Chrome RE: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies RE: FTE 61-79 - Rims and tires RE: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!! FTE 61-79 - Stainless Bolts FTE 61-79 - Re: WOOOOOSHHH!!!! FTE 61-79 - Re: EFI Computers and such RE: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!! FTE 61-79 - Re: 390 Buildup! FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome Re: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460? FTE 61-79 - starts - dies RE: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!! RE: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies FTE 61-79 - 73 F250 P/S RE: FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome FTE 61-79 - standard cab/ supercab swap? Re: FTE 61-79 - 73 F250 P/S Re: FTE 61-79 - standard cab/ supercab swap? RE: FTE 61-79 - standard cab/ supercab swap? FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4) RE: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460? RE: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460? RE: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4) Re: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4) RE: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4) FTE 61-79 - Divorced NP205 Rebuild Price / Info FTE 61-79 - Unibody ? FTE 61-79 - Dana 60/Howling Re: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!! Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: WOOOOOSHHH!!!! RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: EFI Computers, knock sensors etc... Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio FTE 61-79 - No real offroad talk Re: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4) Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio FTE 61-79 - Stalling 352 FTE 61-79 - lightening bolt FTE 61-79 - 402 FTE 61-79 - web deprived re: FTE 61-79 - lightening bolt RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio FTE 61-79 - '70 econoline Re: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460? ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 07:54:52 -0501 From: Subject: FTE 61-79 - losing gas - fuel pump replaced Got the new fuel pump in last night. So far, no more starting problems. Thanks for the help. Bryan Kirking 66 Step Side 352 FE, 4 speed Houston, Texas == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 08:24:28 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Howling > I have a howl coming from either the rear end or the carrier > bearing.The colder the temp the louder the howl. > Any Ideas? Does it howl all the time ? Usually if its the rear-end it'll be quiet on acceleration, but coasting or decelerating can cause a heck of a whine ... If its fairly constant, then I'd look at the carrier bearing ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 09:38:48 -0400 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Howling William S. Hart wrote: > > > I have a howl coming from either the rear end or the carrier > > bearing.The colder the temp the louder the howl. > > Any Ideas? > > Does it howl all the time ? Usually if its the rear-end it'll be quiet on > acceleration, but coasting or decelerating can cause a heck of a whine ... > My 79, 9" does just the opposite. It whines like a motha under cruise/accel, but is quiet on decel/coast :-). OX > If its fairly constant, then I'd look at the carrier bearing ... > > Just my $.02 > wish > > 96 Mustang GT 4.6L > 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 08:44:53 -0500 (CDT) From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling) Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rear axle ratio its pretty easy.If you have an open differential you just jack one wheel up, put the vehicle in nuetral and make a mark on the driveshaft. then you rotate the tire 2 full revolutions (the spider gears rotating is why you have to do 2 turns) and count the # of times your driveshaft mark makes a revolution. that is your ratio.. (ie. little more than 4 revolutions would mean a 4.10:1 ratio, little less the 4 revolutions would probably be 3.89:1 etc...) if you have posi traction or a locker (where you cant get the tires to turn independantly) you just jack both tires up and make just 1 revolution with the tires. (they will turn together and take any kind of "spider gears" out of the equasion) and count the number of times the driveshaft rotates. these wil just give you a "good idea" of what your gearset is. if you need to know the exact ratio (in case you are ordering gears) I would recommend going ahead and pulling the axles out and dropping the third member to get the actual ratio that is stamped into the edge of the ring gear. Hope this helpa ya, Danny Ling (pre 77 1/2) 77 F250 Highboy 4X4, 429 "Thunder Jet" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:51:15 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 74 F250 4X4 w full floating axle Brake job questi on Gentlemen, it is feel but.......there is a spec for the bearing "non preload". It's called preload but it results in the bearing not being preloaded at all. The goal is actually "Zero" preload, not too loose and not too tight. Torquing sets the races, not the bearings and is just for that purpose. You have to back it out until you have zero to 0.010" axial free play on virtually all tapered type bearings. This may actually be what you meant here but the word "Tight" got my attention :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > Put the outer bearing on, it's all feel here-- some do it > differently than > others, so I said the HeX with it and put them down to the > same tight (but > snug) feeling == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:06:30 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - NO OIL PRESURE! If you mean "stock" gauge then it could be the sender or the plug at the end of the sender wire which gets corroded and weak so you need to squash it a tad with some pliers to get a good connnection. Put silicone grease on it while you're are at it. If you mean an after market mechanical gauge then I think you have a problem :-( If you are not dumping oil on the ground via one of the gallery plugs or into the coolant in which case you would know it when the dip stick comes up dry, then it's leaking internally via the bearings which could be due to many things. When trouble shooting, do the simple stuff first and work toward the harder stuff. Inspect the connection and correct it, change the sender, change the gauge, pull the pan......in that order :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > no oil pressure showing on the gauge. I installed another > gauge today and > still no pressure showing. I start it and it makes slight > noises from the > lifters but not the kind you would expect if there was no oil > getting to > them. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:19:33 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome Use Anti-Seize on them and it will be fine as long as you like to leave it. Stainless typically is not as strong as grade 8 steel nuts and bolts but for some applications it will suffice. Valve cover and pan bolts come to mind but head, rod, main cap, flywheel, damper, engine mount and other stuctural, high torque bolts must be made of the correct material for the application. Most of these are grade 8 steel. There is no stainless material I know of used for bolts which can do these jobs safely. If you make it hard enough it will crack, if not it's too soft. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > I need to know if using a regular chrome plated nut on > a stainless bolt > would have any adverse affects? It's only temporary until I > can find the > right stainless nuts. I'm having a heck of a time finding > "5/16-24 and > '3/8-24 stainless nuts. No luck at Lowe's, Ace Hardware, or > any of the auto > parts stores. I e-mailed Totally Stainless 3 days ago and > still haven't > gotten a reply. If anyone knows a reliable source, PLEASE let me know. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:21:49 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio > All, > Is there a simple way to determine the gear ratio for a 9" rear > end without > taking the pumpkin out? > I thought I saw a thread about that a few months ago. > TIA, I noticed this one got skipped yesterday, so I'll add my 2 cents in just so you know there are a couple things to try ... 1) check the rear for a tag, in the lower left hand (?) corner there should be some numbers ... maybe a 3 50 or something similar ... 2) the other method is to jack up one wheel and spin it over twice .. the number of turns of the D.S. for the 2 turns of the wheel is your gear ratio ... if you have a limited slip diff, you'll need to jack up both wheels and spin them once instead of twice... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:33:28 -0400 From: "james burnette" Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Stainless & Chrome One of the best places I've found for stainless hardware is at a boating supply store such as Boat US. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:39:45 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies My bronco starts most of the time with no activity from the accellerator pedal but most vehicles I've owned, including my favorite 460 require several pumps of the pedal if you are to have any hope whatsoever of hearing it fire much less start and run. I attribute the leaky, over rich nature of the 600 cfm Holley replacement carb to the easy starts in the bronco and a very good accellerator pump to all the others :-) After an engine sits for a while, even over night some fuel evaporates and fuel line pressure drops off (on carbed engines) so that first few turns of the engine rely on the choke to "Pull" fuel into the carb and venturis for a quick start. Even with a good, fully closed choke some carbs still insist on a few pumps of juice. I agree with Azie (the brook :-)) that first check for fuel via the pumps then make sure the choke works as designed. Again these are the simple things you can do to diagnose the problem and don't cost a cent :-) If the choke is adjusted right and you are not getting any fuel after it sits for a few days but you do get fuel once running and shut off again (indicating the bowls are full and the accellerator pumps are, indeed, working) then the fuel pump, line, filter, tank vent etc. could be the problem. If you don't care about economy or tipin and want good starts, put a Holley on it......:-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > that was my first thought too Azie, but it should idle > without stalling, the > accelerator pump is used only when the gas is stepped on to > help accelerate > the motor == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:12:56 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rims and tires I would venture to guess it has 5 x 5-1/2" bolt circle and 6 x 15" rims. This rim size is good for up to about 8.5-9" tread width and is really made for 235r75-15 size tires which also happen to be about the same as the old "H" size found on trucks of that vintage. Typically about 28-29" diameter and about 8" wide. Double check the lug pattern to be sure but it should be as above. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > I am going to buy American Racing rims for my '67 F100 > Longbed, 1/2 ton. I > was wondering what size to get so that they will be the same > size as my > original ones. Also, what tire size do I need to get for > these rims. I want > the same circumference as my original tires, or maybe a > little bigger, but I > want pickup tires with a kinda thick tread, cause I do a lot > of off-road > driving too :) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:56:26 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!! Is your tank behind the seat? All of this type I'm aware of have vented caps but if it's located in the rear between the frame rails it may be the sealed type. Most of the advice is on the mark but you may be able to find a cap with larger diameter and smooth top to work in your instance. After market, fancy ones often are easier to work with and locking caps are very easy but you have to remember to grab the key every time (I find that to be a pain :-)) My old van had a couple of them inside since they tend to fall apart too at the most inconvenient times and the pieces fall down the fill tube.....:-( One other thing you might try is to lube the rubber gasket in the cap with ordinary grease or even a little motor oil to see if that helps. The dry rubber does the same thing in the filler tube that your tires do on the pavement.......:-) If you have a stick of "Door Ease" lying around that might even be a good thing to try. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > to deal w/ all the problems LOL My gas cap is metal and since > it has suction > on it or whatever, it's nearly impossible to unscrew == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 08:03:09 -0700 From: Brian Koss Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stainless Bolts The best place I have found is McMaster-Carr Supply Company. It is pretty much the bible on what is available and they are fairly priced. They have their catalog on line. Not sure of the of the URL. There catalog p/n for 5/16-24 and 3/8-24 316 Hex Nuts are 94841AA030 and 94841A031. Price is $19.25 and $23.50 for a package of 100. Says less than full package quanities are available at 10%-25% more. Phone in LA is 1-562-692-5911. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 11:15:59 -0400 From: "Don Haring, Jr." Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: WOOOOOSHHH!!!! Will said: > Okay, here's the deal as far as i've seen it go ... there are 2 different > systems we're talking about here ... one is the old style, which consists > of a vented cap to let air in or out as necessary, the other is the newer > "recovery" style which is supposed to take expanding air, pass it through > the charcoal canister to get the "bad stuff" out and then go into the air > cleaner so it gets burned with the rest of the air/fuel mixture...(snip) Just to add more to this long thread ... The system on the first generation Econoline/Club Wagons is a vent tube exiting the top of the tank. The gas cap is NON-vented. The vent tube runs to the side of the truck, then makes a 90 degree bend upward. About 12" later, it turns 180 degrees to point downward and then bends again so this it's flat. There is no recovery. It is a similar system to other Ford autos in the 60s. In particular, I know that the Falcons had something similar, and it usually gets plugged after 30+ years -- and with the design of the filler tube in the rear panel, it usually results in sloooow filling and puking gas. The trucks are much better since the filler and vent tubes are longer and more vertical, but a plugged vent line will cause a partial vacuum in the tank (if you have a non-vented cap and vent tube arrangement), as Wish said in a previous post. I'm not sure if this is helpful to Lisa as I'm honestly not sure whether her truck has a recovery system or vent tube. - -don - -- Don in Philadelphia Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 08:18:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Dan Lee Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: EFI Computers and such Bill, That is a good question, but it is one that I have considered. A knock detector is an audio pickup device, like a microphone. The circuitry is tuned to the particular frequency that is associated with a knock. All that is required is that the detector be in close contact with the motor. Any hole will do. The oil pressure switch is one that comes to mind. A manifold port may work as well. A crankcase vent would propably be ideal. I did some further checking on Jacobs, their unit changes the spark duration based on mixture, not the timing. I believe there is some confusion, at least on my part between the terms 'detonation' and 'knock'. Detonation is something that occurs on Supercharged engines at high RPMs. Knock is Octane Knock or pinging and is due to low octane fuel under high compression burning too fast and producing a shock wave which in turn produces an audible sound. This effect occurs at low RPMs under heavy load. Dan Lee '53 F100 400C-4V From: "Bill Beyer" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI, Computers and such I'm curious about where/how you're going to install the knock sensor. "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" - - -----Original Message-----From: Dan Lee To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Date: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 8:22 AM Subject: FTE 61-79 - EFI, Computers and such> >I read the recent thread about EFI and would love a >reasonably priced EFI on my 400. In the meantime I >would settle for a ignition computer that supports a >knock sensor, since my 400 has 10.2:1 compression >ratio. I would like to drop some total advance when >the knock sensor detects detonation. I know that MSD >makes a unit that will do that for turbos, but that's >based on boost not detonation. Jacobs also makes a >computer that they claim is suitable for this engine, >but I am trying to get the details on this unit. Does >anyone know of anything available with this>capability? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:19:00 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!! > One other thing you might try is to lube the rubber gasket in > the cap with > ordinary grease or even a little motor oil to see if that helps. The dry > rubber does the same thing in the filler tube that your tires do on the > pavement.......:-) If you have a stick of "Door Ease" lying around that > might even be a good thing to try. are you trying to make things worse, or what's the deal here ? I'm not following something ... won't lubing this stuff up actually make it seal better ? so wouldn't that create more pressure (if that's possible) ? or are you just talkin for ease of removal so she doesn't hurt her hands ? Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:08:17 -0700 (PDT) From: "J. Allison" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 390 Buildup! Howdy Folks! I was poking around the magazine rack yesterday at the local Walmart and noticed an article on a 390 buildup. I didn't really have time to look at it in an in depth fashion but for all those interested it might be worth perusing. It's in the newest issue of Mustang Monthly if I remember correctly. On to other things... Hey! Tony Marino!!! Wake up! I'm STILL waiting for that dang inline6.com to come online. Are you going to make me come on up there and open a can of whoop or should I just do it myself on my own slower than a seven year itch confuser? :) Try to tear yourself away from your great hoard of Ford iron for long enough to let the rest of us know the inside secrets to the almighty Ford 300 I-6. Should I appease the I-6 king with my own tech article? Should I just shut up now while I'm only 10 yards behind? Tune in next week when I'll actually have the time to post an 'official' apology to Mr. Marino for letting the cat outta the bag about his future(?) website. And to think I had the gaul to bring it up in public when it's already on his own blasted website... The nerve! Peace and good Ford vibes... J. Allison PS Sorry if I brought up the 390 article after somebody else did. I haven't caught up on the last 1 1/2 weeks worth of digests yet :( ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:17:26 -0700 From: djohnson lem10.med.navy.mil (Douglas Johnson) Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome Re: FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome > If anyone knows a reliable source, PLEASE let me know. I've had excellant service using KAR Products. Big nationwide company with local service reps, try 1-800-527-7763 0700-1800 C.S.T. or fax them 1-800-527-1003 24/7. We use their fasteners at work here, verry nice selection and good quality. Just call and ask for your local service rep, but if that doesn't work, let me know and I can try and send a few out to you. "Doc" Johnson 64 F100 "Behind every live Marine is a good Corpsman"Re: == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:22:46 EDT From: SevnD2 aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies Ok , I have been following this thread and something being overlooked is the ignition . I can't recall wheather this truck has electronic ignition or not . If it does then this is a problem associated with a bad module . I know of some cases of this start and die syndrome where the module will allow the engine to start and then as you released the key from start position it will die ! I read the repair manual for this problem , and the wiring diagram shows voltage on one of the ignition wires when starting and then zero voltage when the key is released . As far as I know there isn't any way to repair the module , just replace it . Hope this helps ! Rollie H. Hunt King , N. C. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 11:41:11 -0500 From: David.R.John deluxe.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460? I have a 460 with a casting number of D1VE A2B this means 1971 block right? Therefore it should be internally balanced right? Well when I pulled the motor to address my blowby issue I recall seeing a lobe (a weighted thingy) behind the harmonic balancer does this suggest externally balanced. I do not recall seeing any weights on the flywheel (I will double check). Ultimately as you all may know I am swapping the 4spd for an auto.....so do I need a special flexplate (whatever the term is for the auto flywheel) for this if it is externally balanced? Any way to positively know how it is balanced? Thanks again for all your help. Please respond to me directly along with the list, so I can use this info tomorrow when the reassembly starts. David 1978 F250 4x4 460 Supercab 4spd=>auto 1978 F250 4x4 400 regular (donor truck) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:06:52 -0501 From: Subject: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies >SevnD2 aol.com >I can't recall wheather this truck has electronic ignition or not >. If it does then this is a problem associated with a bad module . I know of >some cases of this start and die syndrome where the module will allow the >engine to start and then as you released the key from start position it will >die ! It has points. I ruled out ignition as a problem early since it will start and run once I added priming gas to the carb.(Also the points coil and plug wires were all less than month old). Just for information. Shortly after the truck started having the start and die problem (Sunday) - it also began "hesitating" at random times, but only happened a maybe 3 times until it finally died for good. New fuel pump from NAPA ($32 with tax) and so far so good. Bryan Kirking 66 Step Side 352 FE, 4 speed Houston, Texas == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:51:53 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!! It's obviously already well sealed or the pressure/vacuum would not exist so lubing the rubber gasket can't add anything to the mix but certainly will help to get it on and off :-) Just don't use Peanut butter or margarine or some other material which might not be compatible with the gas :-) You might give it gas........ Next time you change oil in your engine, wipe the adapter completely dry and clean it with brake cleaner and then attempt to screw on the new filter with no lube on the gasket. Can you see the problem? Why do the directons always say to lube the gasket? Why do these cheap gas caps with the ears have ears on them? - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > following something ... won't lubing this stuff up actually > make it seal > better ? so wouldn't that create more pressure (if that's > possible) ? or > are you just talkin for ease of removal so she doesn't hurt > her hands ? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 13:13:40 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - starts - dies Absolutely right.....almost :-) In the case you speak of the engine would not stay running no matter how you got it to start. In his case it will run but only after he gets it primed. The two wires you speak of are the "start" and "Run" circuits and the start circuit only has voltage when the ignition key is in the full start position to engage the starter. That wire is actually energized by the start relay when the key is turned. The other wire has about 8 volts on it in the run position and is only energized when the key is released. Unlike the start wire it receives it's power via the ignition switch. In the case of points the current from these wires goes directly to the dizzy/coil but in electronic systems it goes to the module first and this feeds the dizzy/coil. The module can then fail to deliver the voltage or it can short and deliver only part of the voltage or it can deliver it only when cold and when it warms up it opens so no voltage is present at the dizzy etc.. It can also short between the white and red wires causing the starter to run on by backfeeding the start relay via the start ignition wire (Don't ask :-)). - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > . If it does then this is a problem associated with a bad > module . I know of > some cases of this start and die syndrome where the module > will allow the > engine to start and then as you released the key from start > position it will > die ! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 11:55:14 -0600 From: Bret Godfrey Subject: FTE 61-79 - 73 F250 P/S I have the 77' p/s setup that is shot and in need of replacement. I was talking to a guy I work with, and he said that a p/s unit off a 1 ton international truck would bolt right up to my frame and pitman arm, which would allow me to get rid of all that power assist sh*t. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing, or had any experience with it. Bret G. 77' f250 4x4 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 13:30:32 -0400 From: Ted Wnorowski Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Stainless & Chrome At 10:19 AM 10/7/99 -0400, you wrote: >Use Anti-Seize on them and it will be fine as long as you like to leave it. >Stainless typically is not as strong as grade 8 steel nuts and bolts but for >some applications it will suffice. Valve cover and pan bolts come to mind >but head, rod, main cap, flywheel, damper, engine mount and other stuctural, >high torque bolts must be made of the correct material for the application. >Most of these are grade 8 steel. There is no stainless material I know of >used for bolts which can do these jobs safely. If you make it hard enough >it will crack, if not it's too soft. > >-- >Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, >78 Bronco Loving, Gary >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 >-- Thanks for all the answers. I bought a lifetime sized bottle of Never-Seize the other day. These fasteners are gonna be used for the core support and fenders, inner fenders, etc. I'll check out the other suggestions as I get the time. I found out last night at work, a guy I had seen around the plant for about the last 8 or 9 years, is actually a sales rep for Famous Supply. I always thought he was a big shot from the other offices. I'll check with him and see if he can fix me up. Ted Wnorowski Bellevue,OH ' 64 F-250 352 transplant 4 speed == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:14:30 -0600 From: Bret Godfrey Subject: FTE 61-79 - standard cab/ supercab swap? Hello all, With my growing family it is getting harder and harder to all pile into the 77' and go for a ride. Is it at all possible to swap out my standard cab long bed for a super cab short bed, or a super cab with a custom made flatbed? I happen to know where I can find a 78' super cab that is being parted out and could probably pick up the cab for a pretty reasonable price. I would appreciate anyone's input on this subject. Bret G. 77' f250 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:43:46 -0500 From: "Brett Yerks" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 73 F250 P/S Never heard of that but if you can do some welding and cutting with a torch I highly recommend swapping your steering to the 78-79 style. I'm assuming you are talking about the funky hydraulic assist steering that usually leaks like a sieve. It really is a pretty straight forward swap, a friend and I accomplished the swap in a day, probably about 8 hours with lots of breaks and not working all that hard. The hardest part is just getting the box lined up with everything and making sure the pitman arm clears the frame and leaf spring. There is an excellent write up on the ford-trucks website: http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/powerassist.html Read that and it should be a pretty easy job. Brett 76 F250 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/fbird > I have the 77' p/s setup that is shot and in need of > replacement. I was talking to a guy I work with, and he said that a p/s > unit off a 1 ton international truck would bolt right up to my frame and > pitman arm, which would allow me to get rid of all that power assist > sh*t. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing, or had any experience with > it. > > > Bret G. > 77' f250 > 4x4 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 13:04:09 -0500 From: Craig Cantrell Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - standard cab/ supercab swap? Anybody out there can quickly give me the timing for a 67 240 CI Six? - -- Craig - -- 1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149 "Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle President, South Central Kansas Mustang Club See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 13:07:56 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - standard cab/ supercab swap? > With my growing family it is getting harder and harder to all pile into > the 77' and go for a ride. Is it at all possible to swap out my > standard cab long bed for a super cab short bed, or a super cab with a > custom made flatbed? I think you will have to fiddle with the cab mounts, and go with the flat bed ... if I remember right the regular cab long bed is 133" wheel base while the extended cab-short bed is 140 and the Super Camper Special (F350) is a 139" wheel base ... anyone got corrections on that one ??? Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 12:13:08 -0600 From: Kirk Baillie Subject: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4) Hi im still trying to figure out how to get the drums off the front. I bought the special tool for the rear is one required for the front as well, there looks to be a lock nut but (has 4 square notches cut into it, not like a regular nut that a socket would fit over) is this all that's left to be removed before the drum will slide off? Thanks Kirk Baillie == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 13:09:35 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460? > I have a 460 with a casting number of D1VE A2B this means 1971 > block right? Yup ... but ... > Therefore it should be internally balanced right? Well when I pulled the > motor to address my blowby issue I recall seeing a lobe (a > weighted thingy) > behind the harmonic balancer does this suggest externally balanced. I do > not recall seeing any weights on the flywheel (I will double check). here's a question for you ... what year is the crank ? I wouldn't think the block would determine whether it was an internally or externally balanced motor, but rather the crank would, as an internally balanced crank will probably weigh a bit more than the externally balanced one ... also this will affect the fly wheel questions, as they take different ones for internal vs. external balance... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 14:10:49 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Internally or externally balanced 460? If it is a 71 then it is internally balanced but someone could have put a later damper on it or the lug could be counter balancing some internal hole in the damper itself, not sure. Get a flex plate for a pre-79 460 or 429 unless you suspect that the engine is not original in which case it could have any number of mixed parts. In that case I would have it balanced at a shop to make sure. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > weighted thingy) > behind the harmonic balancer does this suggest externally > balanced. I do > not recall seeing any weights on the flywheel (I will double check). == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 11:15:22 -0700 From: "Southerland, Rich" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4) There is a special socket for the front too. Most good parts stores should have one. I have also used a chisel and a hammer to loosen those, but be careful... - -----Original Message----- From: Kirk Baillie [mailto:kbaillie home.com] Sent: Thursday, October 07, 1999 11:13 AM To: Ford list Subject: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4) Hi im still trying to figure out how to get the drums off the front. I bought the special tool for the rear is one required for the front as well, there looks to be a lock nut but (has 4 square notches cut into it, not like a regular nut that a socket would fit over) is this all that's left to be removed before the drum will slide off? Thanks Kirk Baillie == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 14:17:30 -0400 From: Tony Marino Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4) Yup-- those sockets are available at just about every auto parts store-- as soon as you take them off, you'll see the same exact thing that was in the rear-- only instead of an aluminum crush washer between the nuts, the INNER nut is different from the outer-- on the inner nut there is a pin that is pressed into it-- this pin will line up with a hole in the washer that is between the two nuts.. MAKE SURE when you put it back together you get that pin in one of the washer holes, or bad bad bad things will happen as the pin gets smashed, those metal shards get in the bearings, and the nuts all loosen up.. 8-) Good luck- Tony tony pscico.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony At 12:13 PM 10/7/99 -0600, you wrote: >Hi im still trying to figure out how to get the drums off the front. I >bought the special tool for the rear is one required for the front as >well, there looks to be a lock nut but (has 4 square notches cut into >it, not like a regular nut that a socket would fit over) is this all >that's left to be removed before the drum will slide off? > >Thanks >Kirk Baillie >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 13:26:49 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4) > Hi im still trying to figure out how to get the drums off the front. I > bought the special tool for the rear is one required for the front as > well, there looks to be a lock nut but (has 4 square notches cut into > it, not like a regular nut that a socket would fit over) is this all > that's left to be removed before the drum will slide off? > Yup, well there's 2 and a locking tab between them, but same deal as the rear... I can't remember the price, but its another "special tool" that you only need to buy once ... maybe someone else who works on 4x4's will loan it to you ... it works on most things with the Dana front axle, though they're getting harder to find, most auto-parts stores will carry them ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 14:26:17 -0400 From: Tony Marino Subject: FTE 61-79 - Divorced NP205 Rebuild Price / Info Hey All- I realize this to be an ambiguous question right from the start, but who here has had their transfer case rebuilt by a shop? The transfer in my '76 has every yoke loose on the shafts, and every shaft is loose on the bearings, not to mention it leaks a little fluid, so I figure I would have a shop rebuild the sucker because I really don't feel like messin' with it because it seems to need a substancial amount of work done to it. Where I live, there are literally about 40 tranny shops in the immediate area (Akron, Ohio) and of those shops, about 10 of them are willing to do the transfer case... Out of those 10, only ONE guy from my phone call sounds like a winner to do it-- He drives a '74 F-250 4x4 himself, and owns the shop. He said the WORST case scenario, he'll have the T-case a week, and if it's too bad, he'll have to locate me a new one. These are my questions-- How much should a TOTAL rebuild cost? If my case proves to be too bad to rebuilt, what should I pay for another one? (I run across them every couple of months for about $100 bucks or so, but never picked them up, but if I need one right away, and he finds one, what's reasonable? How much should I wrap up into this? Does anybody near Akron, Ohio have a spare Spicer-24 or NP205 they want to get rid of? ;-) Thanks Tony tony pscico.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 11:41:09 -0700 From: "Bill Deacon" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Unibody ? Why did Ford decide to make the Unibody? Was it strictly a styling thing? Are there any problems and/or characteristics that these trucks have compared to their conventional counterparts from the same era? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 11:53:38 -0700 From: "J.S.H." Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60/Howling >Between the two nuts that you can see once you pull the axle shaft out, >there is a crush washer on a little keyway-- it has a bunch of bendable >ears on it that fold over the flat spots on the nuts, Might want a set of these lock washers on hand,I had one that I bent one too many times and it failed causing the nut to tighten as I drove. Locked up the right rear.Massive tow bill etc.etc... > I have a howl coming from either the rear end or the carrier > bearing.The colder the temp the louder the howl. > Any Ideas? .......... > Perhaps the rear end is low on fluid? I'd imagine that if it is >low, then you've got a bad wheel seal or pinion seal which needs >replaced. >Do you hear & feel a "clunk" when changing between forward and reverse When it started howling I changed the fluid,I don't have any clunks. gears? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:02:55 EDT From: Bad4dFilly aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - WOOOOOSHHH!!!! In a message dated 10/07/1999 3:34:31 AM !!!First Boot!!!, danger csolutions.net writes: the local auto parts store and buy another set of locking caps for my other truck before somebody helps themselves to 45 gallons worth of premium about $1.50 per gallon! >> I love my baby and all, but she'll just have to settle with 87 octane cuz I AM BROKE! LOL She does just fine w/ that, but maybe I'll give her a treat of 92 octane on payday hehe! *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~* *~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!!~*~* == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:07:31 EDT From: Bad4dFilly aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: WOOOOOSHHH!!!! In a message dated 10/07/1999 3:17:36 PM !!!First Boot!!!, haring fedora.net writes: her truck has a recovery system or vent tube. >> I know I should know the answer to this question but big surprise I don't LOL I recall Darrell said I do have a recovery system on my truck?? Is this right? *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~* *~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for girls!~*~* == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:14:28 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: EFI Computers, knock sensors etc... AFAIK these are both a form of detonation. I've heard this fast burning shock wave theory too but I believe it's been documented that the fast flame front compresses the fuel until it explodes which is detonation. Detonation simpley means that some or all of the fuel is caused to ignite simultaneously due to pressure and heat instead of burn progressively. It's more serious in supercharged, high HP engines because everything is multiplied but it's still the same thing AFAIK?? The other thing that confuses the issue is called "pre-ignition" which is where some hot spot or particle or even the ignition itself causes the charge to light before it's supposed to. I think what messes us up is that it's called "Spark Knock". Retarding the spark has "some" effect because it doesn't allow the cylinder pressure to get as high due to a late fire sequence. Less pressure, less heat, less likely to detonate. In my experience, an engine that is prone to knock can not be set up to run efficiently and therefore will not get very good mileage unless you allow it to knock. I've tried retarding the spark on many engines to eliminate the knock but they still knock under certain conditions no matter how you set them up and if you retard the spark enough so there is "no" knock it will not even run. IMNSHO, spark knock is the product of an engine's combustion chamber design or manufactured in flaws. Certain engines seem to have more trouble with it than others. The 70, 250 six was a good example. Fairly high compression with a not so well designed chamber caused this engine to knock under any load at any speed unless you ran premium in it but the book recommended regular. If you run premium in an engine with low compression it will not burn efficiently and you will waste your money trying to make it do so in many cases so these engines are basically lemons from the get go :-( The service guys at the dealer will tell you that modern, EFI engines are made to run on regular and actually will not run very well on premium. One I talked to said he gets lots of complaints of that sort and every time, returning to regular fixes the problem. All the M blocks I've had do the same thing. If you attempt to advance the timing so you can get some economy out of them they will knock your socks off :-( This is undoubtedly the result of cam design, ignition timing and combustion chamber design. The 460 can be run at fairly high compressions on regular gas with no trouble, many others can't. I backed my bronco down till I was pretty satisfied with the knock at low speed/heavy load and noticed a very pronounced loss in power and it began to surge at cruise. The difference between that and where it is now is only a few degrees, about 4 I think and just adding two more makes it all but undriveable since you can't allow any pressure on it at low speeds. I'm running 8 degrees right now and at 10 it cruises much better and gets better economy but knocks too much going through the gears. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > I believe there is some confusion, at least on my part > between the terms 'detonation' and 'knock'. Detonation > is something that occurs on Supercharged engines at > high RPMs. Knock is Octane Knock or pinging and is due > to low octane fuel under high compression burning too > fast and producing a shock wave which in turn produces > an audible sound. This effect occurs at low RPMs under > heavy load. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:19:09 EDT From: Bad4dFilly aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio In a message dated 10/07/1999 2:24:44 PM !!!First Boot!!!, wish iastate.edu writes: > Is there a simple way to determine the gear ratio for a 9" rear > end without > taking the pumpkin out? >> What's a pumpkin?? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:20:14 EDT From: Bad4dFilly aol.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - No real offroad talk think it takes everyone a little time to adjust and learn the ropes. Yes there is useful information here but people also find it a place to chat, or vent or what ever. Now if Filly and Larry will make up (and Wish will stop helping ;) we can get back to our regularly scheduled programing >> I'm still new here silly! I think I am probably the most clueless person on the list and y'all are a lot more knowledgeable about stuff like this. Even though my posts may be a lil off subject, they in SOME way, have to do with trucks, I can guarantee that. Its not like I post what color my fingernail polish is or who I am goin to the school dance with LOL And for the record I'm not mad at Larry Wish!!!> I was just responding with my P.O.V on things =) *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~* *~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!!!~*~* == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 13:24:18 -0600 From: Kirk Baillie Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Front hub removal (74 f250 4x4) Thanks William, just got back from the store, cost was $13.00 bucks but now I have it for life. Another couple of tools to add to my never ending collection :) "William S. Hart" wrote: > > > Hi im still trying to figure out how to get the drums off the front. I > > bought the special tool for the rear is one required for the front as > > well, there looks to be a lock nut but (has 4 square notches cut into > > it, not like a regular nut that a socket would fit over) is this all > > that's left to be removed before the drum will slide off? > > > > Yup, well there's 2 and a locking tab between them, but same deal as the > rear... I can't remember the price, but its another "special tool" that you > only need to buy once ... maybe someone else who works on 4x4's will loan it > to you ... it works on most things with the Dana front axle, though they're > getting harder to find, most auto-parts stores will carry them ... > > Just my $.02 > wish > > 96 Mustang GT 4.6L > 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 14:37:36 -0500 From: Larry Schmiedekamp Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio Lisa Some dif come apart by taking the rounded back off. i.e pumpkin The 9" comes apart by unbolting the front and pulling all the gears out. Later At 03:19 PM 10/7/99 EDT, you wrote: >In a message dated 10/07/1999 2:24:44 PM !!!First Boot!!!, wish iastate.edu >writes: > > > > Is there a simple way to determine the gear ratio for a 9" rear > > end without > > taking the pumpkin out? >> > >What's a pumpkin?? >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:36:25 -0400 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stalling 352 Wish writes>> >>that was my first thought too Azie, but it should idle without stalling, the accelerator pump is used only when the gas is stepped on to help accelerate the motor ... your method of checking is exactly right on though, and I would definitely check it if the fuel pump doesn't fix things But Wish - read his last statement again>> :::: Once started in this > manner it runs fine. > Seems to me the carb bowl is not holding gas Once started it runs fine !!!!! Doesn't that mean it will idle, once he gets it past the starting stage???? I think he means he has to start it multiple times before he gets it to idle/run ----- Maybe not. Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:47:20 -0400 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - lightening bolt Someone writes: >>what's the deal with the gear and lightning bolt on the rubber > flooring? I haven't seen it again on any ford trucks as I rummaged > throught them in the salvage yard. If I'm not mistaken this is early '60's and maybe 50's emblem for the 6 cyl ford trucks. Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:49:52 -0400 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - 402 Brian writes: >>My motor (402cid) is a little beyond stock itself. I'm told I'll run out of carb (750cfm) before I run out of motor. Aluminum Performer RPM intake, Aluminum Performer Heads, TRW forged pistons, adjustable rockers, electronic ignition, hydraulic cam (270/290), custom headers, etc... Again, I'm talking a lot of theoretical numbers here, and I will likely never push it over 100mph myself - unless I can get a shot at a test/race track somewhere (Brainerd Int'l Raceway comes to mind). My uncles may push it after the shakedown - they're a little more experienced in such matters. All this will be going into a short-box stepside: short wheel base, big tires, power steering, and 4-wheel brakes. I'm more interested in surviving driving my truck than hitting 130m I don't think the 750CFM will run out of capacity on the 402. Unless you've modified the oiling system and put in some different lifters, and valve springs, you are going to experience lifter collapse or valve float long before the carb reaches its maximum flow. The FE's are (in my not so humble opinion) one of the toughest engines ever built and I've had litterally bunches of them, but unless you do some mods to the oil passages the lifters will collapse, and the factory valve springs tend to let the valves float any where from 5500-6500 RPMs. The crankshaft tends to have some oiling problems on #4 and #1 main also. Keep it below 5000 and it will last a very long time. I wish you success on your project. You may run out of cam before you run out of carb from looking at your #'s. Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:52:24 -0400 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - web deprived Wish writes: >>Azie, or any of you other web-deprived readers, its all text, so if you want an emailed copy, lemme know ... Yeah !!! I'd like that --- even if I do babble. Azie Ardmore, Al. AM14 DaimlerChrysler.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 14:58:21 -0500 From: "Alex Beshirs" Subject: re: FTE 61-79 - lightening bolt >Someone writes: >>what's the deal with the gear and lightning bolt on the >rubber >> flooring? I haven't seen it again on any ford trucks as I rummaged >> throught them in the salvage yard. >If I'm not mistaken this is early '60's and maybe 50's emblem for the 6 cyl ford >trucks. >Azie >Ardmore, Al. I got a ' 68 F-100, and I got it on mine, so I reckon it ran on into to the late 60's at least. Plowboy Dallas, Tx Men stumble over the truth from time to time, but most pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing happened -- Winston Churchill == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:06:21 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle ratio > > > Is there a simple way to determine the gear ratio for a 9" rear > > end without .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session
cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.
Advertising -
Terms of Use - Privacy Policy -
Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company. 
|