From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #354
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61-79-list-digest Thursday, September 30 1999 Volume 03 : Number 354



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - 400 flex plate work on 460??
Re: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns
Re: FTE 61-79 - 400
FTE 61-79 - carnack
[none]
RE: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns
RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?
FTE 61-79 - 9" LSD Weakness'
RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 Headers
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - Headers
FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-)
RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 Headers
Re: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns
Re: FTE 61-79 - '63 Master Cylinder
FTE 61-79 - 1978 Ford F150 Supercab 4x4 parting out sale:
RE: FTE 61-79 - '63 Master Cylinder
FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker
RE: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns
FTE 61-79 - Starterf
FTE 61-79 - B code
RE: FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker
FTE 61-79 - LS rear
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question
FTE 61-79 - Parts available
FTE 61-79 - 390 Headers
FTE 61-79 - Seattle List Members??
RE: FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker
FTE 61-79 - Header coatings
FTE 61-79 - Flex plate 460
FTE 61-79 - Changing gears
RE: FTE 61-79 - Changing gears
RE: FTE 61-79 - LS rear
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hank!!
Re: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-)
Re: Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Insurance
Re:FTE 61-79 - Cheap Insurance
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1978 Ford F150 Supercab 4x4 parting out sale:
Re: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-)
Re: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-)
FTE 61-79 - Horn not working
FTE 61-79 - ooooops.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Horn not working
Re: FTE 61-79 - 428 Crank on ebay
Re: FTE 61-79 - Seattle List Members??
Re: FTE 61-79 - Flex plate 460
Re: FTE 61-79 - Changing gears
Re: FTE 61-79 - Seattle List Members??
Re: FTE 61-79 - Seattle List Members??

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 06:33:34 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 400 flex plate work on 460??

A 460 flex plate is a flex plate is a flex plate with one exception.
Somewhere in or around 79 they switched from zero balance to detroit balance
so you can't mix them between those years (pre and post) but otherwise they
are all the same but you must use the one for the 460, not the 400 due to
balance issues.

There is another issue too, the converter may have a different snout on it
than your crank needs. Apparently there were at least two configurations so
make sure the converter fits nicely into the crank pilot hole with no
interferance.

Tell them it's a 71 Merc wagon and it will work for you :-) That's a good
year by the way :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> from my donor
> 400 vehicle will work with my 460? If not how can I get the
> parts guy to
> understand that even though there was no 460 in a 4x4 in 1971 (block
> casting number D1VE A2B) or in 1978 the year of the truck I
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 06:56:51 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns

In a message dated 9/30/99 12:31:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
meyer stratford.webgate.net writes:

> After reading this one in paper, thought I'd pass on. Local Mechanic caught
> fire, severely burned while pouring gasoline down carburetor.
> Well, I've had it happen, just try not to stop the starter,keep it
> rolling over and the vac in the intake tract will draw flames inward.
Better
> yet, pour down when not turning over, then attempt to start.
>
Why is this necessary? Usually because the fuel system is not functioning
(which we know deep down and hope that pouring some gas down the carb will
get it to prime...clear it out, etc. etc.) I have been there, done that,
many times myself. I have seen someone catch fire from it too. There is
really no substitute or short cuts. Take the time to correct the problem
before you try to pour gas down the carb. You will be further ahead in the
long run and around to tell about it.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 07:02:54 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400

In a message dated 9/30/99 1:53:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
r72cnvt hotmail.com writes:

> Is there a way to post photos without
> digitizing them? I was planning on taking some pictures of various cranks
> and posting them for reference.


I guess it all depends on where you plan to post them :-) If you mean on the
net then you have to either have a digital camera or use a scanner to
transfer conventional photos to a standard file format which can then be
uploaded to some server. This is a great idea. I'll scan the pictures for
you if you do not have or know anyone with a scanner.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 04:07:16 PDT
From: "J B"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - carnack

Thanks for the advice on my gas mileage issure.

This may be my last post since Carnack has spoken and told me you all are
too snobby for me - that I should get rid of the F150 and buy a Buick
Roadmaster.

Not.

OH. Anyone who has need of the original wheels for a 79 F150 Explorer can
swing by and get them. Also, have a chrome custom bar grill for same - never
been used. First in the door yard gets them.

Take care.

JB

...a shotgun and a rifle and a 4WD - a country boy can survive

'79 F150 - 460 - NP203

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 04:22:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill Ballinger
Subject: [none]

>>> My nationality shows at times, but I thought
>>>the school of hard
knocks
counted for something.


Mine does too at times, my kids call me Scrooge at
Christmas time. I told em to get over it or I'll
start wearing a kilt everywhere.

Let's see, my wife's birthday is coming up... I need
to be checking the cemetery so I can get her some
flowers. I prefer the silk ones cause I can get a
bunch of them and give em year after year....:-)
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 07:27:33 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns

I TOTALLY AGREE......NEVER POUR GAS INTO A CRANKING OR RUNNING ENGINE!
EVER! DO NOT SPRAY ETHER INTO A RUNNING OR CRANKING ENGINE! Always wait
between attempts to make sure there is no "silent" flame in the venturis
before pouring the next gulp too. I always check and then even blow into
the venturi to make sure it's out if there is any doubt or even throw a rag
over it and make sure. When I blew myself up I only got first degree burns
but over a large area and I can tell you it hurt! I don't even want to
think about second and third degree burns which is what you get in this kind
of situation. Acrylic material, which most shirts have as at least a
portion of the fabric, sticks to the skin when it burns and burns deep into
the flesh. Not a pretty sight :-(

You have no clue when or how a spark may happen to ignite this in your face
and I've been blown up so I guess you could say I'm anal about it but there
is never, ever any need to do this in any case. Pour it in, a cup at a
time, you can't hurt it, then get in and crank away but always, always,
always have jumpers on it with a back up battery in case of a fire so you
can keep it cranking to draw the flames into the engine to kill it. This is
where many have made their mistake........it backfires, catches the raw gas
on fire, flame shootup 5' in the air and they panic. Just keep cranking and
it will straighten right out. A gas fire with limited fuel available is
really not a serious threat. The danger is that other things will catch on
fire such as grease, rubber and then perhaps the rubber fuel line.......now
you DO have trouble :-(

If cranking it doesn't do the job, throw a rag on it and smother the flames.
For God's sake, don't let the rag catch on fire in the process :-( I used
to keep a heavy cotton rag on or about my harley just for that purpose (they
used to be known for carb fires). The trick is to throw it quickly so it
covers the whole fire area to keep oxygen out. It's very easy and
effective, trust me, I've done it many times :-)

I once lost my fuel pump and I managed to get the truck down the road a ways
by pouring gas in the carb, firing it up and letting it run out of gas.
Pretty crude but it got me a little ways til I realized this was not really
the answer :-) Very tedious and hard on the engine to say the least :-)

Remove air cleaner, pour, get in cab, press pedal to floor to open venturis
and crank, that's the procedure :-) Always open the throttle wide open to
prevent blowing the carb off the manifold or otherwise damaging it and this
also allows more air to prevent flooding.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --


> After reading this one in paper, thought I'd pass on. Local
> Mechanic caught
> fire, severely burned while pouring gasoline down carburetor.
> Well, I've had it happen, just try not to stop the starter,keep it
> rolling over and the vac in the intake tract will draw flames
> inward. Better
> yet, pour down when not turning over, then attempt to start.
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 07:49:46 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question

What do you mean by "2 piece"?? All 9" have a third member with a
differential housing for the pinion gears etc.. Are you saying the housing
is two pieces? I'm pretty sure the one I rebuilt came apart and has 4
pinions in it. I've heard there is a two pinion version as well and this is
not nearly as strong simply due to lack of the other two pinions. Is this
what you mean?

The 4 pinion LS is as strong as any differential made for the 9" with the
possible exception of the Detroit locker and based on the structure I can't
see how the detroit could be much stronger either unless it is due to the
materials they use in the housing and internal parts?

The reason 4 is better than 2 is than you spread the load over 4 pins and 4
tooth engagements rather than just two so it is theoretically (potentially)
twice as strong. I can't picture the assy right now but it seems there was
a plate on one end to access the clutches, just can't remember any more :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I believe the "2 piece case" (aka PowerLoc?) limited slip
> is stronger
> than the "2 pinion" (aka TractionLoc?) LS. A Haynes or
> Chilton manual shows
> exploded views of both types. The only way I know to tell
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 07:57:20 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns

I usually do it on a vehicle which has been sitting and the fuel is old and
the pump is dried out and ..........it's effective, gives you a clue as to
what to look for when trouble shooting and may just get it going without
having to wast time fixing it so there are valid reasons for doing it, JUST
DO IT SAFELY :-) In my case it is usually to move a vehicle to some other
spot in the yard and I don't have any intention of working on it, I just
need it to start so I can move it :-) It's quick and dirty, just my style
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > yet, pour down when not turning over, then attempt to start.
> >
> Why is this necessary? Usually because the fuel system is
> not functioning
> (which we know deep down and hope that pouring some gas down
> the carb will
> get it to prime
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 07:40:36 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?

Copy that. I inadvertently broke the turn signal switch in my Jeep Wrangler
a couple of years ago, and nearly went crazy replacing it.

-----Original Message-----
From: SHill48337 aol.com [mailto:SHill48337 aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 1999 12:29 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting
Question, Trans brake?

In a message dated 9/29/1999 9:04:44 AM Pacific Daylight
Time,
DJacobs northland-elec.com writes:


problem is in the column
not the tranny. I had a Ford mechanic friend check out the
tranny and that
wasn't the problem. So I have to be very careful of leaving
truck running in
park. Looking for a new column when I have time. >>

The shifting collar that the shift lever goes into on the
column is a casting
and it cracks and splits inside such that it does not lock
properly and
eventually will prevent proper gear selection. A couple of
weeks ago I
walked into my favorite auto salvage place carring the old
collar. The
counter man turned around and pulled out a box with a brand
new one in it and
ask if this is what I wanted. The price was $10.00. Still
a real pain to
disassemble.
Burt Hill Kennewick, WA 1972 F-259 4x4 460
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 09:03:57 -0400
From: "Marvin Meyer"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" LSD Weakness'

- -The 4 pinion LS is as strong as any differential made for the 9Ē with the
possible exception of the Detroit locker and based on the structure I canít
see how the detroit could be much stronger either unless it is due to the
materials they use in the housing and internal parts?
- -The reason 4 is better than 2 is than you spread the load over 4 pins and 4
tooth engagements rather than just two so it is theoretically (potentially)
twice as strong. I canít picture the assy right now but it seems there was
a plate on one end to access the clutches, just canít remember any more :-(

Material is what makes the Detroit locker better amongst racers, I
cannot remember but i THINK high nickel content. The cast cover case of the
LSD are unfortunatly the weak link in the chain. Back in late 60's/early
70's, Ford just about garranteed a 9" N cased LSD behind every 4spd equiped
car. This is where you pick up free cash back then. Get an old rusted out
car for nothing and start removing the drive train/ staggered shocks etc.
The cover case (outer shell that encases the clutch pack) is the weak
link due to I believe pourosity/air I've removed a quite a few that were
broken because inbetween the bolt holes there is not much material. I've
succesfully recreated that part on the lathe out of mild steel. Any race
store sells the part, but at $250 that's expensive. It only seemed to
occured in 4spd cars, 4 wheel mud run trucks with the rear 9" I have no
idea.
Another poormans trick I remember is converting a 4 pinion into a posi,
by using (here i go again) I THINK M-5 meteric washers behind the pre-load
springs. By doing this you increase the torque transfer to both wheels. It
only lasts1-2k miles but it works on a strip only car. Worked great in my 74
150 equipped 429CJ truck. Ah the good ol days of lots of money and playing,
eeerrr rehabilitation.
Marvin


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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 08:07:32 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 Headers

> > even Wish is going get a set!!!!!!!! (if he can ever stop
> spending money on
> > that Mustang!!!!!!!!!)
> >

I keep tryin, but the parts just keep callin my name :) I've already got
that stash of parts from you (and hopefully some from Tony someday ;) that
should keep me busy on the truck for a few months ... the car though, that
just doesn't have the stock pile the truck does ... yet;) BTW Back to
Marshalltown and the Go-kart track this weekend ...

> > Anyway, the coating was provided by someone named "Airborne"
> and it looks
> > pretty tough....hope this helps!!!!!
> >

He's not kiddin, I couldn't believe that coating held up through CJ's abuse
... I mean er... uhm ... yeah, anyway it wiped right up, no scratches or
cracks that I could see ... some day I'll get the pictures scanned so we can
all ooohh.. and ahhhh over CJ's 428 ...

> One of
> the bolts doesn't
> fit between pipe and the flange. I was just going to taper the
> bolt so it will
> slide in and hope there is still enough thread to to tighten
> down with. At
> least there will be no more smashed collectors ;)
>

If you smash those collectors you have other problems! But what we did for
the 3rd tube back on both sides was to use studs (actually CJ used the ARP
studs all the way around), but on these particular ones we used studs and
cut the end off of them, then while you're putting the header on, start the
bolt, its really not too bad, but tightening the right side was a pain! a
really short wrench might do the trick if your hands are small enough to
work in there ... CJ had the front clip off, so that helped a bit ...
if/when I do mine I'll have the clip ON, so it should be interesting...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 08:10:08 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question

> Bill, with drive shaft locked the side gears will roll around the pinion
> gears no matter what type of system it has except for the
> detroit perhaps.

Oh, I'll have to check that again then ... you're right thinking about it I
unlocked the DS, not locked it ... then if they spin opposite they are open
and the same its an LSD ... I have tried this, it does work (factory
trak-lock on my stang, spin the tire to the front, the opposite one goes the
same way ...) ... if you do this on an open the opposite tire goes the other
way ... if the DS is locked, likely it won't turn either way ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 08:12:11 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Headers

> coating makes them last
> longer as well as reducing some noise and heat in the engine compartment.

> If you really want quiet and cool, wrap them with fiberglass wrap but be
> prepared to accept the wrath and chiding of the list if you do :-) I did
> but I'm old and don't care :-) On plain steel headers the wrap will
> probably cause them to rust sooner in damp environments but you
> paint them
> with high temp paint to seal them when you're done so if you keep them
> painted who knows?
>

Also don't wrap coated headers ... said so right on the ones CJ got ... any
wrap on them voids all warranties ... just something to watch out for ...

In this environment in the midwest with salt and humidity, I'd stay away
from the wraps ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 09:15:20 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-)

Well it's been a busy week so far....My grand daughter was born Monday night
just before midnight, Weighs in at a whopping 5 pounds 11 Oz, 19.5" long and
BEAUTIFUL! Mom had some problems with pre-eclampsia but is doing better now
and is resting comfortably. Hope to see them go home in the morning. It
was a long tough process for her but she insisted on doing it naturally if
she could and she did but she sure suffered for it :-( Anyway,
everything's cool now, just thought I'd let you all know I now have 8 grand
children but only got to see 4 of them on a yearly basis and the others
almost never until now. I'll be seeing Cassandra Janine pretty often I'm
sure :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 09:59:02 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 Headers

I swore (and swore and swore....) that I would use studs the next time I had
any excuse to take the headers off my 460. In fact my next tear down of any
kind will be re-assembled entirely with studs in everything. It's so nice
to have little guide pins sticking out every where to catch the gaskets and
line things up and you never have to figure out which length bolt goes in
what hole and since all the nuts are the same length.....:-)

In case some of you didn't know it, headers usually require special bolts or
stud and nuts with smaller foot print to clear the tubing and they have lock
rings which aid in keeping them tight as well which use the tube as a lock
point. You can actually get 12 pt nuts which take up less space than hex
nuts. I used cheap, auto parts header bolts and they were much better than
normal bolts but still had trouble fitting some due to the wrap. Since my
headers had split flanges I also had to bend the tubing slighly to get the
holes to line up and this is where the studs really shine since you can
anchor part of the header and push the other end around till all the holes
lay over the studs. They also hold the gasket in place nicely while you are
killing yourself trying to make it fit :-)

The coated headers I've seen had very thin coating which I question the
value of other than for rust protection. Thicker coatings may have some
sound deadening qualities and the porcelain material, if thick enough, may
have some heat dissapation qualities but I'm not convinced that the ones
I've seen can contribute much to this whereas the fiberglass wrap does both
very well. If one could figure out how to make them rust proof we'd have a
real winner :-) My next set I will carefully prep the metal and do a good
paint job before wrapping and see what happens :-)

BTW, by the time you buy the paint, clips and straps and fiberglass tape you
will have almost as much into it as if you bought them coated or have
someone coat them and it's tedious and finger cutting hard work to boot :-(
In spite of this I will continue to try to improve the process and longevity
because I like what wrap does for it :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> He's not kiddin, I couldn't believe that coating held up
> through CJ's abuse

> bolt, its really not too bad, but tightening the right side
> was a pain!
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 08:06:28 -0600
From: William Whited
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns

Gary, I wouldn't blow in it to make sure it was clean. When I was a kid me
and my other were messing around with a coffee can with gas in it and started it
on fire. Me being the older "BRIGHTER" one decided to blow it out. Leaned over
blew in it and WOW no hair on my face. Extra oxygen, lots of gas equals lots of
flame. From from your post I see you do not frequently do things nowadays.

William Whited
74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390
77 F150 Custom 60

"Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote:

> I TOTALLY AGREE......NEVER POUR GAS INTO A CRANKING OR RUNNING ENGINE!
> EVER! DO NOT SPRAY ETHER INTO A RUNNING OR CRANKING ENGINE! Always wait
> between attempts to make sure there is no "silent" flame in the venturis
> before pouring the next gulp too. I always check and then even blow into
> the venturi to make sure it's out if there is any doubt or even throw a rag
> over it and make sure.

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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 07:15:08 -0700
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '63 Master Cylinder

"David H. Uhrbrock" wrote:

> I have a 1963 F100 with the original one-piston master cylinder. I would
> like to put a dual-piston master cylinder in its place. Has anyone on this
> group done this? Part numbers would be very helpful.
>
> Thanks
>
> David H. Uhrbrock
> david.uhrbrock utmb.edu
>

Hi David

How much do you want to upgrade? Just a dual master cylinder or would you
like to add a booster as well?

All you really have to do is find a late 60 or early 70's with the master
cylinder. If you think it's in good shape use it or exchange it for a
rebuilt one. Grab the push rod off the pedal assembly also it might come in
handy if yours it to short. If you are keeping the drum brakes make sure the
donor truck also has drum brakes. If you can or if the donor has a
proportioning valve grab that also. I'm not sure if front and rear drum
systems use a proportioning valve or not. Another solution is to get an
after market adjustable one. Of course you will need to make up some lines
for the front and rear systems.

On the 63 the master cylinder is mounted to a steel plate that is then
mounted to the firewall. You have to remove the steel plate and all to get
to the master cylinder mounting screws. It gets a little more complex if you
also add a booster but not anything out of the ordinary. I used a booster
out of a 65 F-100 and a 78 F-250 master cylinder so almost any and all parts
will work. Also got the proportioning valve out of a 72 Mustang Mach 1. The
parts place just loves me ;)

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4
43 GPW


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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:26:32 EDT
From: DR11AGON aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1978 Ford F150 Supercab 4x4 parting out sale:

PARTING OUT SALE:
1978 FORD F150, Supercab 4x4: Has many good parts. whole front end no rust, 2
cabs to chose from, solid 8' bed, good drivetrain: 351M(crane cam, edelbrock
intake, holley 4 barrel, flowtech headers, dual exhaust with h-pipe and
flowmasters), C-6 tranny, transfer case, Ford 9" rear(3.50 gears), Dana44
front(3.50 gears), new doors, new door weatherstrip, new front window visor,
new parking brake cable, 1/2 good tread on 35" B.F. Goodrich All-Terrain.
Call for prices. mileage: 138000.
(215) 886-6956 Located in Pennsylvania, Philadelphia area.
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:38:14 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '63 Master Cylinder

If you get an after market proportioning valve make sure it's rated for the
weight of a truck. Most of these are designed for race cars which are quite
a bit lighter than a truck and I believe the springs are not up to the
needs. In a full lock panick stop they will not apply enough force to the
rear brakes to get full use of them. I don't know exactly how the spring
works with the system but assume the rear pressure relies on it for it's
control.

OTOH, it could just be a regulator spring which maintains a relative
differnance between the front and rear by forcing the front to over come the
spring before pressure can be applied to the rear something like a gas tank
regulator but the one I had didn't seem to work that way?

One thing I can say for sure, it won't replace the proportioning valve on a
disk/drum system because it has no residual valve to control the caliper
piston bleed back. I won't divulge how I learned this....:-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> proportioning valve grab that also. I'm not sure if front
> and rear drum
> systems use a proportioning valve or not. Another solution
> is to get an
> after market adjustable one. Of course you will need to make
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:37:14 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker

Wish writes: >>a lot heartier I'm sure, but also a bit tougher on tires for
those who drive on asphalt ...

OK Wish !!! Explain it.

My understanding of the Detroit locker is that it uses the rotation of the
inside tire to pull you through a corner and the outside tire
"ratchets"(freewheels at a faster rate) around. No binding at all like in a
"Cone" or "Clutch" rear...Easier on the drive line as well as on the tires.

Inquireing minds want to know ! ! !

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:46:03 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns

I was refering to the small light blue flame that lingers in the fumes after
an aborted start, not a full fledged fire with plenty of fuel. All it takes
is the tinyest spark or heat source to set the new charge off while you are
pouring it in. Often there is a little line of blue flame that is barely
discernable around the carb where some fuel was spilled or in the bottom of
the plenum but it is just burning up some residual, mostly evaporated fuel
or varnish or fumes, not realy a threat to you by itself but when you pour
the next charge it can cause imediate explosion and flash fire which is
unbelievably hot when you are in the middle of it :-(

I would never suggest that you blow on a real fire with fuel still available
to feed it, certainly :-)

Don't understand the last line?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Gary, I wouldn't blow in it to make sure it was clean.

> it out. Leaned over
> blew in it and WOW no hair on my face. Extra oxygen, lots of
> gas equals lots of
> flame.

> From from your post I see you do not frequently do
> things nowadays.
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:47:43 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Starterf

David writes: >>Can anyone tell me if I will need a different starter for my
460 when I
make the change from 4spd to the C6 auto. Can I just buy some different
parts to make the manual starter an auto starter? Will the starter out of
my donor vehicle (400) work in the 460?

The 460 should work on any 460, regardless of transmission. The 400 should
also work. Mine did, but I'm lead to believe thjat the true 460 has more
torque.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:52:18 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - B code

Brian writes: >>What does a rear end code "B" stand for ? Does it stand for
limited-slip (Ford-speak) ?

I don't have a clue as to what a "B" code rear stands for. If it is a FORD
factory limited slip it will have the "L" between the whole # and the fractional
# of the rear end ratio # ...ie a 3.25 ratio limited slip will show on the tag
as 3L25...

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:02:11 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker

From my experience using one of these in my Wrangler, the Detroit only
ratchets when inside tire is NOT under power. Otherwise, the inside tire
tries to keep up with the outside tire. Then after the turn, the detroit
wants to straighten things out and you get some more quirkiness. Pulls to
the left or right depending on the just completed turn. As I said in a
previous post, I doubt this would be much fun to have in the winter, at
least on a short wheel-base vehicle.

-----Original Message-----
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
[mailto:am14 daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 1999 9:37 AM
To: 61-79-list Ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker

Wish writes: >>a lot heartier I'm sure, but also a bit
tougher on tires for
those who drive on asphalt ...

OK Wish !!! Explain it.

My understanding of the Detroit locker is that it uses the
rotation of the
inside tire to pull you through a corner and the outside
tire
"ratchets"(freewheels at a faster rate) around. No binding
at all like in a
"Cone" or "Clutch" rear...Easier on the drive line as well
as on the tires.

Inquireing minds want to know ! ! !

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:01:52 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - LS rear

Wish writes: >>The best way to tell for sure is going to be to leave the car in
park, put
both wheels off the ground, then spin one of them, if the other spins in the
same direction, its LSD, if its an opposite direction its an open ... I know
you can't just run out and check that, but it'll tell you for sure when you
are there ...

Yo Wish !!!! If you have it in Park, and it is a limited slip, you won't be
able to turn either wheel. Now if it is in Neutral, your instructions are
correct. Those clutches have a breaking force of something like 270 ft lbs!!!!

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:11:03 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question

Bill, what happens with DS unlocked is that the inertia and oil in the diff
will supply enough resistance to turning the input quill that the opposit
tire will turn in the opposit direction with no additional effort to lock
the quill when you turn the other one whereas if it is limited slip the
clutches have enough preload on them (if not completely worn out) that it
will over come all those factors and turn the input quil instead so both
tires go the same direction. This action is what makes it a limited slip.
It will slip with effort and the more effort that is applied before it slips
the less likely it will slip which is why you can make them grab when
necessary simply by applying brakes which forces the side gears tighter
against the walls of the diff housing, compressing the clutches and
generating more locking force.

The problem with this method is that you have to make sure the brakes are
not adding to the mess and upsetting your results or that the gear lube is
not turned to tar etc.. :-)

Probably the most reliable way would be to leave one tire on the ground and
test the amount of effort needed to get the quill to turn, allowing for any
brake drag on the wheel you are turning etc.. Normally an open diff will
turn fairly easily and, most of all, smoothly but the LS will be hard to
turn and you should be able to feel a start/stop grab effect when you try to
move it due to the clutches where this sensation would not be present with
an open diff. The clutches should cause a hesitation, like someone holding
it and then suddenly releasing it that you can actually feel in the
movement.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Oh, I'll have to check that again then ... you're right
> thinking about it I
> unlocked the DS, not locked it ... then if they spin opposite
> they are open
> and the same its an LSD ... I have tried this, it does work (factory
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:27:23 -0400
From: Larry Bouthiette
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Parts available

I am rebuilding a '73 F250 and I have an NP435, transfer case and drive
shafts from the engine donor, a '76 F150. They came off a 360. I'm in
Central Mass if anyone is interested email me at larryb wn.net. Asking
$400 obo if picked up for everything.



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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:46:27 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 Headers

Hey Don,

Are you talking about the bolt under below the #3 pipe into the heads? (both
sides). I used studs all the way around rather than bolts. If you want the
stud kit part number, I can find it out for you, but it was really the way to
go! The studs under the #3 positions had to have the heads ground slightly to
accept the header bend. That, and a slight Wish-approved "modification" to
the collector with a hammer (to allow some clearance around the oil pan
flange on the passenger side) was all that was needed. I'm hoping the
silicone does what its supposed to....I didn't use any exhaust gaskets, did
you? Also, how are you going to do the exhaust pipe hookup to the collector?
Will a "donut" work here? I'd really like to stay away from those lame
collector gaskets that ALWAYS blow out, even if they are doubled-up.....

Oh ya, I also had to do a slight modification on the oil dipstick....but
nothing too major....

CJ
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:46:31 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Seattle List Members??

This is Colorado Jeff (CJ) asking to see if there are any list members in
Seattle who might have some time in the next couple of weeks to get together
for breakfast or lunch.....the standard deal is that I will pay if your truck
is running!!!!!!

CJ
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:53:32 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker

That is my understanding too but apparently there is a lock mechanism when
going straight that actually locks them until a turn forces the lock to kick
out sometimes with a bang and a lurch and then it ratchets after that.

In any case the reason it is hard on tires is due to the fact that in a turn
the inside tire does ALL the work and on top of that insult has to carry the
outside tire and all it's resistance so there is more slippage where the LS
is still a true differential and both tires will pull in a corner under
light throttle conditions. The tighter the turn the more the clutches will
complain which is why they put that slippery stuff in there to more or less
nullify the LS function IMNSHO :-) Doesn't chatter, lasts a lot longer but
doesn't do anything :-(

Both have the nasty quirk of becoming more agressive the harder you apply
the power in the turn with the squirrely results we always hear about :-)
When both tires turn at the same speed in a turn you will either drift
sideways or push to the outside of the curve or corner, basically running
off the road in either case. You won't be able to steer which is why the
differential was introduced in the first place :-)

The info I've gleaned from the lists so far is that sometimes the locker
hangs on a tad too long into a turn and causes a little twitch untill it
unlocks. The LS has never caused me any trouble I can recall but most of
them do not act agressive under normal cornering throttle settings,
especially in sharp corners where you let off the gas most of the time. I
originally had mine in a 2wd van and then added 4wd to it. That van was,
hands down, even in 2wd, the most tractive vehicle I've ever owned until I
met the mighty bronco :-) Even with open diffs the bronco does very well
:-) (won't go through 4' of wet snow though :-))

My impression of all this is that the LS will not save you in deep, gumbo
mud (still better than open) but is a welcome help on snow and ice and even
offers some assistance on wet pavement by putting more torque to the
tractive tire so there is less chance of spinning on a hard take off etc..
I have no experience with the locker so am only stating what I've heard from
those who do :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> My understanding of the Detroit locker is that it uses the
> rotation of the
> inside tire to pull you through a corner and the outside tire
> "ratchets"(freewheels at a faster rate) around. No binding
> at all like in a
> "Cone" or "Clutch" rear...Easier on the drive line as well as
> on the tires.
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:59:16 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Header coatings

CJ writes: >>
Anyway, the coating was provided by someone named "Airborne" and it looks
pretty tough....hope this helps!!!!!

Only way they could have a better name is if they had "Ranger" also tacked onto
it, but "Airborne" has to be good.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.
Former Airborne Ranger (probably more years ago than most on this list are old)


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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 12:06:24 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Flex plate 460

David writes: >> I
have to go to the almighty list to find out if the flex plate from my donor
400 vehicle will work with my 460? If not how can I get the parts guy to
understand that even though there was no 460 in a 4x4 in 1971 (block
casting number D1VE A2B) or in 1978 the year of the truck I still need a
flex plate. Just have him look it up for a car?

The 400 will not work. Different crankshaft bolt patterns. Order one for a
car. It will work fine. Doesn't Ford use "Flywheel" instead of "Flex
plate"????

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:25:54 -0600 (MDT)
From: Scott William Richmond
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Changing gears

Hi everyone,

There have been a number of threads lately about changing rear diffs for
various reasons. I have a '67 Mercury 1/2 ton with 3.70 gears and a 240
I6 and 3-speed standard. On the highway at 65 mph the engine revs at
about 3000-3100 rpm. The problem with this is even with such a small
motor, it goes through almost as much gas as my old '71 with the 360 and
3.54 gears at highway speed.

My questions are: do you think it would help significantly if I swapped in
my spare set of gears which are 3.25's? Also, do you think it is harmful
to the I6 to rev at this speed for 2-3 hours constantly? There are
approximately 160,000 miles on the motor.

Thanks,
Scott

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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 14:39:51 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Changing gears

The faster it has to run the sooner it will wear out but I-6's have been
running those rpms for years from the factory and live a long time too :-)

3.25 is a tad tall for the I-6 in a truck if you plan to do any more than
run back and forth to work with it but.......if you just cruise then it may
actually work out for you. The 78's came with 2.75's with the 351M and it
turns out to be plenty gutsy. Most lincolns came with the 3.25 gears too.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> My questions are: do you think it would help significantly if
> I swapped in
> my spare set of gears which are 3.25's? Also, do you think
> it is harmful
> to the I6 to rev at this speed for 2-3 hours constantly? There are
> approximately 160,000 miles on the motor.
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 13:56:34 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - LS rear

> Yo Wish !!!! If you have it in Park, and it is a limited slip,
> you won't be
> able to turn either wheel. Now if it is in Neutral, your
> instructions are
> correct. Those clutches have a breaking force of something like
> 270 ft lbs!!!!
>


Thanks Azie, apparently I missed this one big and bad ... but since the car
I did the testing on was a 5spd, I coudln't remember if I'd had it in gear
or not (yes some parts of Iowa are flat, like my driveway :)

As for the brake drag affecting it, those would have to be some seriously
grabby brakes ... and I would think youwould hear it ... at any rate this
was just offered as a quick way to tell ... the other of course is to nail
the gas in a corner and see what happens ...


On the Detroit Locker issue, I think they pretty much covered it, but
basically (I haven't seen the diagram of how the gears or anything work, but
I have a theoretical understanding of it, meaning in theory I understand it
:) ... anyway its pretty much just a "coast" mode that lets the outside one
ratchet along when you're turning with the power off, but as soon as you hit
the gas, they will lock together and cause them to spin at the same speed
(I"ll let you guess what happens to the rear of the car then) ... the reason
I say this is hard on tires is cause I can't remember the last time I
"coasted" all the way through a turn ... especially not off of a stoplight
...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 13:17:45 -0600
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question

> What do you mean by "2 piece"?? All 9" have a third member with a
> differential housing for the pinion gears etc.. Are you saying the
housing
> is two pieces? I'm pretty sure the one I rebuilt came apart and has 4
> pinions in it. I've heard there is a two pinion version as well and this
is
> not nearly as strong simply due to lack of the other two pinions. Is this
> what you mean?
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
........

The Haynes and Chilton manuals refer to the 4 pinion LS as "2 piece case
with limited slip". At least they call the 2 pinion LS a "2 pinion with
limited slip"


Danger
danger csolutions.net



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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 16:02:48 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hank!!

In a message dated 99-09-30 07:09:17 EDT, you write:

>

It sure is nice to know some of yall still listen to Hank Jr. His music
makes for some of the most awesome wheelin Ive ever done. Family Tradition
especially, with dads 75 F-250 4x4, my bros 84 F-150, and my Tweety, well we
really just have a blast playin ole Hank.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 16:10:47 -0400
From: kpayne ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-)

Congrats!
- -Ken

"Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote:
>
> Well it's been a busy week so far....My grand daughter was born Monday night
> just before midnight, Weighs in at a whopping 5 pounds 11 Oz, 19.5" long and
> BEAUTIFUL! Mom had some problems with pre-eclampsia but is doing better now
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 19:32:05 -0400
From: "Rick & Debbie Kelso"
Subject: Re: Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Insurance

Does anyone know of a good company to purchase insurance from?

If you are in Tennessee or Virginia, I can help you. I represent
Traveler's. We offer, what I consider to be the BEST auto/homeowner's
policies you can get. I can be contacted privetly at the above e-mail
address. Plus, it's sometimes an advantage to purchase auto insurance from
someone who understands the specialty car industry. Thanks, R. Kelso


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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 16:50:00 -0700
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re:FTE 61-79 - Cheap Insurance

> Does anyone know of a good company to purchase insurance from?
>

I just checked out www.insweb.com ( think that is what it is) Not many
agents are taking part in my area but if you live in a Metro area you might
have better luck.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4
43 GPW


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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 19:47:33 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1978 Ford F150 Supercab 4x4 parting out sale:

In a message dated 9/30/99 7:37:31 AM Pacific Daylight Time, DR11AGON aol.com
writes:


rust, 2
cabs to chose from, solid 8' bed, good drivetrain: 351M(crane cam, edelbrock
intake, holley 4 barrel, flowtech headers, dual exhaust with h-pipe and
flowmasters), C-6 tranny, transfer case, Ford 9" rear(3.50 gears), Dana44
front(3.50 gears), new doors, new door weatherstrip, new front window visor,
new parking brake cable, 1/2 good tread on 35" B.F. Goodrich All-Terrain.
Call for prices. mileage: 138000. >>

I keep seein this, and I hafta ask. With all those goodies on the truck, why
part it out? What doesnt it have?

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 19:44:01 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-)

Congratulations. I trust in about 15 yrs you'll be posting a letter about
her "new" 77 F-250 4x4?

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 19:26:28 -0500
From: "Norm"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-)

From: Peters, Gary (G.R.)
> Well it's been a busy week so far....My grand daughter was born Monday
night
> just before midnight, Weighs in at a whopping 5 pounds 11 Oz, 19.5" long
and

Congrats Gary!!!!!!! Hope all is well and sounds like ya have reason to
be proud!

Norm/Tracie dahorse jvlnet.com " Babied & Pampered"
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=231
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jvlnet.com/~dahorse

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 17:24:28 -0700
From: "Dan & Cheryl Ledford"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Horn not working

I wrote a while back about getting a wiring diagram because my horn doesn't
work. Here's the story:
The horn itself works 'cause I can hot wire it to the battry and in
operates. replaced the horn relay (field relay in the maintenance books).
The horn wire (yellow) goes from the horn to the relay. A yellow wire (I
assume a continuation) goes from the horn relay to the starter relay,
battery terminal. A blue/yellow wire also goes from the horn relay to the
steering column harness. All steering elements seem to be in place (rings,
spring pins, etc.)
The horn should work if I "jump" the horn spring pin to the steering
column center shaft ( or to any other ground point). Right? Any ideas?

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 20:22:14 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ooooops.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=172394861

DUH, heres the address.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 18:46:21 -0600
From: "Matthew Senn"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Horn not working

yes . . . in fact, when i replaced my steering wheel earlier this summer, i
accidentally grounded the horn circuit on the column shaft with my hand and
got quite a little jolting surprise . . .

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Dan & Cheryl Ledford
To:
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 1999 6:24 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Horn not working


> I wrote a while back about getting a wiring diagram because my horn
doesn't
> work. Here's the story:
> The horn itself works 'cause I can hot wire it to the battry and in
> operates. replaced the horn relay (field relay in the maintenance books).
> The horn wire (yellow) goes from the horn to the relay. A yellow wire
(I
> assume a continuation) goes from the horn relay to the starter relay,
> battery terminal. A blue/yellow wire also goes from the horn relay to the
> steering column harness. All steering elements seem to be in place
(rings,
> spring pins, etc.)
> The horn should work if I "jump" the horn spring pin to the steering
> column center shaft ( or to any other ground point). Right? Any ideas?
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 21:28:41 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 428 Crank on ebay

In a message dated 9/30/99 8:35:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
JUMPINFORD aol.com writes:

> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=172394861
>
> DUH, heres the address.

A $600 starting bid on a crank sight unseen....Don't everyone bid at
once. CJ I think we need a recon mission.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 18:28:49 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Seattle List Members??

Count me in... I live in Burien which is south of Seattle, work in
Kent... and my truck is finally running... with my new 351C.
Mike in Burien
e-mail me...
mikepacheco uswest.net
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 18:30:28 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Flex plate 460

Thought flex-plate was for automatics and flywheel for clutch type
applications.... probably wrong tho...
Mike in Burien
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 18:39:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: canzus seanet.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Changing gears

At 11:25 AM 30:9:99 -0600, Scott William Richmond wrote:

>My questions are: do you think it would help significantly if I swapped in
>my spare set of gears which are 3.25's? Also, do you think it is harmful....


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