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From: owner-61-79-list-digest
To: 61-79-list-digest Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #354 Reply-To: 61-79-list Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest Errors-To: owner-61-79-list-digest Precedence: bulk 61-79-list-digest Thursday, September 30 1999 Volume 03 : Number 354 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: RE: FTE 61-79 - 400 flex plate work on 460?? Re: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns Re: FTE 61-79 - 400 FTE 61-79 - carnack [none] RE: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question RE: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake? FTE 61-79 - 9" LSD Weakness' RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 Headers RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question RE: FTE 61-79 - Headers FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-) RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 Headers Re: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns Re: FTE 61-79 - '63 Master Cylinder FTE 61-79 - 1978 Ford F150 Supercab 4x4 parting out sale: RE: FTE 61-79 - '63 Master Cylinder FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker RE: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns FTE 61-79 - Starterf FTE 61-79 - B code RE: FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker FTE 61-79 - LS rear RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question FTE 61-79 - Parts available FTE 61-79 - 390 Headers FTE 61-79 - Seattle List Members?? RE: FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker FTE 61-79 - Header coatings FTE 61-79 - Flex plate 460 FTE 61-79 - Changing gears RE: FTE 61-79 - Changing gears RE: FTE 61-79 - LS rear Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question Re: FTE 61-79 - Hank!! Re: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-) Re: Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Insurance Re:FTE 61-79 - Cheap Insurance Re: FTE 61-79 - 1978 Ford F150 Supercab 4x4 parting out sale: Re: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-) Re: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-) FTE 61-79 - Horn not working FTE 61-79 - ooooops. Re: FTE 61-79 - Horn not working Re: FTE 61-79 - 428 Crank on ebay Re: FTE 61-79 - Seattle List Members?? Re: FTE 61-79 - Flex plate 460 Re: FTE 61-79 - Changing gears Re: FTE 61-79 - Seattle List Members?? Re: FTE 61-79 - Seattle List Members?? ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 06:33:34 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 400 flex plate work on 460?? A 460 flex plate is a flex plate is a flex plate with one exception. Somewhere in or around 79 they switched from zero balance to detroit balance so you can't mix them between those years (pre and post) but otherwise they are all the same but you must use the one for the 460, not the 400 due to balance issues. There is another issue too, the converter may have a different snout on it than your crank needs. Apparently there were at least two configurations so make sure the converter fits nicely into the crank pilot hole with no interferance. Tell them it's a 71 Merc wagon and it will work for you :-) That's a good year by the way :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > from my donor > 400 vehicle will work with my 460? If not how can I get the > parts guy to > understand that even though there was no 460 in a 4x4 in 1971 (block > casting number D1VE A2B) or in 1978 the year of the truck I == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 06:56:51 EDT From: TBeeee Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns In a message dated 9/30/99 12:31:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, meyer > After reading this one in paper, thought I'd pass on. Local Mechanic caught > fire, severely burned while pouring gasoline down carburetor. > Well, I've had it happen, just try not to stop the starter,keep it > rolling over and the vac in the intake tract will draw flames inward. Better > yet, pour down when not turning over, then attempt to start. > Why is this necessary? Usually because the fuel system is not functioning (which we know deep down and hope that pouring some gas down the carb will get it to prime...clear it out, etc. etc.) I have been there, done that, many times myself. I have seen someone catch fire from it too. There is really no substitute or short cuts. Take the time to correct the problem before you try to pour gas down the carb. You will be further ahead in the long run and around to tell about it. Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 07:02:54 EDT From: TBeeee Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400 In a message dated 9/30/99 1:53:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time, r72cnvt > Is there a way to post photos without > digitizing them? I was planning on taking some pictures of various cranks > and posting them for reference. I guess it all depends on where you plan to post them :-) If you mean on the net then you have to either have a digital camera or use a scanner to transfer conventional photos to a standard file format which can then be uploaded to some server. This is a great idea. I'll scan the pictures for you if you do not have or know anyone with a scanner. Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 04:07:16 PDT From: "J B" Subject: FTE 61-79 - carnack Thanks for the advice on my gas mileage issure. This may be my last post since Carnack has spoken and told me you all are too snobby for me - that I should get rid of the F150 and buy a Buick Roadmaster. Not. OH. Anyone who has need of the original wheels for a 79 F150 Explorer can swing by and get them. Also, have a chrome custom bar grill for same - never been used. First in the door yard gets them. Take care. JB ...a shotgun and a rifle and a 4WD - a country boy can survive '79 F150 - 460 - NP203 ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 04:22:05 -0700 (PDT) From: Bill Ballinger Subject: [none] >>> My nationality shows at times, but I thought >>>the school of hard knocks counted for something. Mine does too at times, my kids call me Scrooge at Christmas time. I told em to get over it or I'll start wearing a kilt everywhere. Let's see, my wife's birthday is coming up... I need to be checking the cemetery so I can get her some flowers. I prefer the silk ones cause I can get a bunch of them and give em year after year....:-) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 07:27:33 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns I TOTALLY AGREE......NEVER POUR GAS INTO A CRANKING OR RUNNING ENGINE! EVER! DO NOT SPRAY ETHER INTO A RUNNING OR CRANKING ENGINE! Always wait between attempts to make sure there is no "silent" flame in the venturis before pouring the next gulp too. I always check and then even blow into the venturi to make sure it's out if there is any doubt or even throw a rag over it and make sure. When I blew myself up I only got first degree burns but over a large area and I can tell you it hurt! I don't even want to think about second and third degree burns which is what you get in this kind of situation. Acrylic material, which most shirts have as at least a portion of the fabric, sticks to the skin when it burns and burns deep into the flesh. Not a pretty sight :-( You have no clue when or how a spark may happen to ignite this in your face and I've been blown up so I guess you could say I'm anal about it but there is never, ever any need to do this in any case. Pour it in, a cup at a time, you can't hurt it, then get in and crank away but always, always, always have jumpers on it with a back up battery in case of a fire so you can keep it cranking to draw the flames into the engine to kill it. This is where many have made their mistake........it backfires, catches the raw gas on fire, flame shootup 5' in the air and they panic. Just keep cranking and it will straighten right out. A gas fire with limited fuel available is really not a serious threat. The danger is that other things will catch on fire such as grease, rubber and then perhaps the rubber fuel line.......now you DO have trouble :-( If cranking it doesn't do the job, throw a rag on it and smother the flames. For God's sake, don't let the rag catch on fire in the process :-( I used to keep a heavy cotton rag on or about my harley just for that purpose (they used to be known for carb fires). The trick is to throw it quickly so it covers the whole fire area to keep oxygen out. It's very easy and effective, trust me, I've done it many times :-) I once lost my fuel pump and I managed to get the truck down the road a ways by pouring gas in the carb, firing it up and letting it run out of gas. Pretty crude but it got me a little ways til I realized this was not really the answer :-) Very tedious and hard on the engine to say the least :-) Remove air cleaner, pour, get in cab, press pedal to floor to open venturis and crank, that's the procedure :-) Always open the throttle wide open to prevent blowing the carb off the manifold or otherwise damaging it and this also allows more air to prevent flooding. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > After reading this one in paper, thought I'd pass on. Local > Mechanic caught > fire, severely burned while pouring gasoline down carburetor. > Well, I've had it happen, just try not to stop the starter,keep it > rolling over and the vac in the intake tract will draw flames > inward. Better > yet, pour down when not turning over, then attempt to start. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 07:49:46 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question What do you mean by "2 piece"?? All 9" have a third member with a differential housing for the pinion gears etc.. Are you saying the housing is two pieces? I'm pretty sure the one I rebuilt came apart and has 4 pinions in it. I've heard there is a two pinion version as well and this is not nearly as strong simply due to lack of the other two pinions. Is this what you mean? The 4 pinion LS is as strong as any differential made for the 9" with the possible exception of the Detroit locker and based on the structure I can't see how the detroit could be much stronger either unless it is due to the materials they use in the housing and internal parts? The reason 4 is better than 2 is than you spread the load over 4 pins and 4 tooth engagements rather than just two so it is theoretically (potentially) twice as strong. I can't picture the assy right now but it seems there was a plate on one end to access the clutches, just can't remember any more :-( - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > I believe the "2 piece case" (aka PowerLoc?) limited slip > is stronger > than the "2 pinion" (aka TractionLoc?) LS. A Haynes or > Chilton manual shows > exploded views of both types. The only way I know to tell == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 07:57:20 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns I usually do it on a vehicle which has been sitting and the fuel is old and the pump is dried out and ..........it's effective, gives you a clue as to what to look for when trouble shooting and may just get it going without having to wast time fixing it so there are valid reasons for doing it, JUST DO IT SAFELY :-) In my case it is usually to move a vehicle to some other spot in the yard and I don't have any intention of working on it, I just need it to start so I can move it :-) It's quick and dirty, just my style :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > > yet, pour down when not turning over, then attempt to start. > > > Why is this necessary? Usually because the fuel system is > not functioning > (which we know deep down and hope that pouring some gas down > the carb will > get it to prime == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 07:40:36 -0500 From: Dave Jacobs Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake? Copy that. I inadvertently broke the turn signal switch in my Jeep Wrangler a couple of years ago, and nearly went crazy replacing it. -----Original Message----- From: SHill48337 Sent: Thursday, September 30, 1999 12:29 AM To: 61-79-list Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake? In a message dated 9/29/1999 9:04:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time, DJacobs problem is in the column not the tranny. I had a Ford mechanic friend check out the tranny and that wasn't the problem. So I have to be very careful of leaving truck running in park. Looking for a new column when I have time. >> The shifting collar that the shift lever goes into on the column is a casting and it cracks and splits inside such that it does not lock properly and eventually will prevent proper gear selection. A couple of weeks ago I walked into my favorite auto salvage place carring the old collar. The counter man turned around and pulled out a box with a brand new one in it and ask if this is what I wanted. The price was $10.00. Still a real pain to disassemble. Burt Hill Kennewick, WA 1972 F-259 4x4 460 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 09:03:57 -0400 From: "Marvin Meyer" Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" LSD Weakness' - -The 4 pinion LS is as strong as any differential made for the 9” with the possible exception of the Detroit locker and based on the structure I can’t see how the detroit could be much stronger either unless it is due to the materials they use in the housing and internal parts? - -The reason 4 is better than 2 is than you spread the load over 4 pins and 4 tooth engagements rather than just two so it is theoretically (potentially) twice as strong. I can’t picture the assy right now but it seems there was a plate on one end to access the clutches, just can’t remember any more :-( Material is what makes the Detroit locker better amongst racers, I cannot remember but i THINK high nickel content. The cast cover case of the LSD are unfortunatly the weak link in the chain. Back in late 60's/early 70's, Ford just about garranteed a 9" N cased LSD behind every 4spd equiped car. This is where you pick up free cash back then. Get an old rusted out car for nothing and start removing the drive train/ staggered shocks etc. The cover case (outer shell that encases the clutch pack) is the weak link due to I believe pourosity/air I've removed a quite a few that were broken because inbetween the bolt holes there is not much material. I've succesfully recreated that part on the lathe out of mild steel. Any race store sells the part, but at $250 that's expensive. It only seemed to occured in 4spd cars, 4 wheel mud run trucks with the rear 9" I have no idea. Another poormans trick I remember is converting a 4 pinion into a posi, by using (here i go again) I THINK M-5 meteric washers behind the pre-load springs. By doing this you increase the torque transfer to both wheels. It only lasts1-2k miles but it works on a strip only car. Worked great in my 74 150 equipped 429CJ truck. Ah the good ol days of lots of money and playing, eeerrr rehabilitation. Marvin == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 08:07:32 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 Headers > > even Wish is going get a set!!!!!!!! (if he can ever stop > spending money on > > that Mustang!!!!!!!!!) > > I keep tryin, but the parts just keep callin my name :) I've already got that stash of parts from you (and hopefully some from Tony someday ;) that should keep me busy on the truck for a few months ... the car though, that just doesn't have the stock pile the truck does ... yet;) BTW Back to Marshalltown and the Go-kart track this weekend ... > > Anyway, the coating was provided by someone named "Airborne" > and it looks > > pretty tough....hope this helps!!!!! > > He's not kiddin, I couldn't believe that coating held up through CJ's abuse ... I mean er... uhm ... yeah, anyway it wiped right up, no scratches or cracks that I could see ... some day I'll get the pictures scanned so we can all ooohh.. and ahhhh over CJ's 428 ... > One of > the bolts doesn't > fit between pipe and the flange. I was just going to taper the > bolt so it will > slide in and hope there is still enough thread to to tighten > down with. At > least there will be no more smashed collectors ;) > If you smash those collectors you have other problems! But what we did for the 3rd tube back on both sides was to use studs (actually CJ used the ARP studs all the way around), but on these particular ones we used studs and cut the end off of them, then while you're putting the header on, start the bolt, its really not too bad, but tightening the right side was a pain! a really short wrench might do the trick if your hands are small enough to work in there ... CJ had the front clip off, so that helped a bit ... if/when I do mine I'll have the clip ON, so it should be interesting... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 08:10:08 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question > Bill, with drive shaft locked the side gears will roll around the pinion > gears no matter what type of system it has except for the > detroit perhaps. Oh, I'll have to check that again then ... you're right thinking about it I unlocked the DS, not locked it ... then if they spin opposite they are open and the same its an LSD ... I have tried this, it does work (factory trak-lock on my stang, spin the tire to the front, the opposite one goes the same way ...) ... if you do this on an open the opposite tire goes the other way ... if the DS is locked, likely it won't turn either way ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 08:12:11 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Headers > coating makes them last > longer as well as reducing some noise and heat in the engine compartment. > If you really want quiet and cool, wrap them with fiberglass wrap but be > prepared to accept the wrath and chiding of the list if you do :-) I did > but I'm old and don't care :-) On plain steel headers the wrap will > probably cause them to rust sooner in damp environments but you > paint them > with high temp paint to seal them when you're done so if you keep them > painted who knows? > Also don't wrap coated headers ... said so right on the ones CJ got ... any wrap on them voids all warranties ... just something to watch out for ... In this environment in the midwest with salt and humidity, I'd stay away from the wraps ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 09:15:20 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-) Well it's been a busy week so far....My grand daughter was born Monday night just before midnight, Weighs in at a whopping 5 pounds 11 Oz, 19.5" long and BEAUTIFUL! Mom had some problems with pre-eclampsia but is doing better now and is resting comfortably. Hope to see them go home in the morning. It was a long tough process for her but she insisted on doing it naturally if she could and she did but she sure suffered for it :-( Anyway, everything's cool now, just thought I'd let you all know I now have 8 grand children but only got to see 4 of them on a yearly basis and the others almost never until now. I'll be seeing Cassandra Janine pretty often I'm sure :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 09:59:02 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 Headers I swore (and swore and swore....) that I would use studs the next time I had any excuse to take the headers off my 460. In fact my next tear down of any kind will be re-assembled entirely with studs in everything. It's so nice to have little guide pins sticking out every where to catch the gaskets and line things up and you never have to figure out which length bolt goes in what hole and since all the nuts are the same length.....:-) In case some of you didn't know it, headers usually require special bolts or stud and nuts with smaller foot print to clear the tubing and they have lock rings which aid in keeping them tight as well which use the tube as a lock point. You can actually get 12 pt nuts which take up less space than hex nuts. I used cheap, auto parts header bolts and they were much better than normal bolts but still had trouble fitting some due to the wrap. Since my headers had split flanges I also had to bend the tubing slighly to get the holes to line up and this is where the studs really shine since you can anchor part of the header and push the other end around till all the holes lay over the studs. They also hold the gasket in place nicely while you are killing yourself trying to make it fit :-) The coated headers I've seen had very thin coating which I question the value of other than for rust protection. Thicker coatings may have some sound deadening qualities and the porcelain material, if thick enough, may have some heat dissapation qualities but I'm not convinced that the ones I've seen can contribute much to this whereas the fiberglass wrap does both very well. If one could figure out how to make them rust proof we'd have a real winner :-) My next set I will carefully prep the metal and do a good paint job before wrapping and see what happens :-) BTW, by the time you buy the paint, clips and straps and fiberglass tape you will have almost as much into it as if you bought them coated or have someone coat them and it's tedious and finger cutting hard work to boot :-( In spite of this I will continue to try to improve the process and longevity because I like what wrap does for it :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > He's not kiddin, I couldn't believe that coating held up > through CJ's abuse > bolt, its really not too bad, but tightening the right side > was a pain! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 08:06:28 -0600 From: William Whited Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns Gary, I wouldn't blow in it to make sure it was clean. When I was a kid me and my other were messing around with a coffee can with gas in it and started it on fire. Me being the older "BRIGHTER" one decided to blow it out. Leaned over blew in it and WOW no hair on my face. Extra oxygen, lots of gas equals lots of flame. From from your post I see you do not frequently do things nowadays. William Whited 74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390 77 F150 Custom 60 "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote: > I TOTALLY AGREE......NEVER POUR GAS INTO A CRANKING OR RUNNING ENGINE! > EVER! DO NOT SPRAY ETHER INTO A RUNNING OR CRANKING ENGINE! Always wait > between attempts to make sure there is no "silent" flame in the venturis > before pouring the next gulp too. I always check and then even blow into > the venturi to make sure it's out if there is any doubt or even throw a rag > over it and make sure. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 07:15:08 -0700 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '63 Master Cylinder "David H. Uhrbrock" wrote: > I have a 1963 F100 with the original one-piston master cylinder. I would > like to put a dual-piston master cylinder in its place. Has anyone on this > group done this? Part numbers would be very helpful. > > Thanks > > David H. Uhrbrock > david.uhrbrock > Hi David How much do you want to upgrade? Just a dual master cylinder or would you like to add a booster as well? All you really have to do is find a late 60 or early 70's with the master cylinder. If you think it's in good shape use it or exchange it for a rebuilt one. Grab the push rod off the pedal assembly also it might come in handy if yours it to short. If you are keeping the drum brakes make sure the donor truck also has drum brakes. If you can or if the donor has a proportioning valve grab that also. I'm not sure if front and rear drum systems use a proportioning valve or not. Another solution is to get an after market adjustable one. Of course you will need to make up some lines for the front and rear systems. On the 63 the master cylinder is mounted to a steel plate that is then mounted to the firewall. You have to remove the steel plate and all to get to the master cylinder mounting screws. It gets a little more complex if you also add a booster but not anything out of the ordinary. I used a booster out of a 65 F-100 and a 78 F-250 master cylinder so almost any and all parts will work. Also got the proportioning valve out of a 72 Mustang Mach 1. The parts place just loves me ;) - -- Don Grossman duckdon 99 Contour 63 F-100 4x4 43 GPW == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:26:32 EDT From: DR11AGON Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1978 Ford F150 Supercab 4x4 parting out sale: PARTING OUT SALE: 1978 FORD F150, Supercab 4x4: Has many good parts. whole front end no rust, 2 cabs to chose from, solid 8' bed, good drivetrain: 351M(crane cam, edelbrock intake, holley 4 barrel, flowtech headers, dual exhaust with h-pipe and flowmasters), C-6 tranny, transfer case, Ford 9" rear(3.50 gears), Dana44 front(3.50 gears), new doors, new door weatherstrip, new front window visor, new parking brake cable, 1/2 good tread on 35" B.F. Goodrich All-Terrain. Call for prices. mileage: 138000. (215) 886-6956 Located in Pennsylvania, Philadelphia area. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:38:14 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '63 Master Cylinder If you get an after market proportioning valve make sure it's rated for the weight of a truck. Most of these are designed for race cars which are quite a bit lighter than a truck and I believe the springs are not up to the needs. In a full lock panick stop they will not apply enough force to the rear brakes to get full use of them. I don't know exactly how the spring works with the system but assume the rear pressure relies on it for it's control. OTOH, it could just be a regulator spring which maintains a relative differnance between the front and rear by forcing the front to over come the spring before pressure can be applied to the rear something like a gas tank regulator but the one I had didn't seem to work that way? One thing I can say for sure, it won't replace the proportioning valve on a disk/drum system because it has no residual valve to control the caliper piston bleed back. I won't divulge how I learned this....:-( - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > proportioning valve grab that also. I'm not sure if front > and rear drum > systems use a proportioning valve or not. Another solution > is to get an > after market adjustable one. Of course you will need to make == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:37:14 -0400 From: am14 Subject: FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker Wish writes: >>a lot heartier I'm sure, but also a bit tougher on tires for those who drive on asphalt ... OK Wish !!! Explain it. My understanding of the Detroit locker is that it uses the rotation of the inside tire to pull you through a corner and the outside tire "ratchets"(freewheels at a faster rate) around. No binding at all like in a "Cone" or "Clutch" rear...Easier on the drive line as well as on the tires. Inquireing minds want to know ! ! ! Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:46:03 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Saftey/Mechanic Burns I was refering to the small light blue flame that lingers in the fumes after an aborted start, not a full fledged fire with plenty of fuel. All it takes is the tinyest spark or heat source to set the new charge off while you are pouring it in. Often there is a little line of blue flame that is barely discernable around the carb where some fuel was spilled or in the bottom of the plenum but it is just burning up some residual, mostly evaporated fuel or varnish or fumes, not realy a threat to you by itself but when you pour the next charge it can cause imediate explosion and flash fire which is unbelievably hot when you are in the middle of it :-( I would never suggest that you blow on a real fire with fuel still available to feed it, certainly :-) Don't understand the last line? - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > Gary, I wouldn't blow in it to make sure it was clean. > it out. Leaned over > blew in it and WOW no hair on my face. Extra oxygen, lots of > gas equals lots of > flame. > From from your post I see you do not frequently do > things nowadays. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:47:43 -0400 From: am14 Subject: FTE 61-79 - Starterf David writes: >>Can anyone tell me if I will need a different starter for my 460 when I make the change from 4spd to the C6 auto. Can I just buy some different parts to make the manual starter an auto starter? Will the starter out of my donor vehicle (400) work in the 460? The 460 should work on any 460, regardless of transmission. The 400 should also work. Mine did, but I'm lead to believe thjat the true 460 has more torque. Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:52:18 -0400 From: am14 Subject: FTE 61-79 - B code Brian writes: >>What does a rear end code "B" stand for ? Does it stand for limited-slip (Ford-speak) ? I don't have a clue as to what a "B" code rear stands for. If it is a FORD factory limited slip it will have the "L" between the whole # and the fractional # of the rear end ratio # ...ie a 3.25 ratio limited slip will show on the tag as 3L25... Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 10:02:11 -0500 From: Dave Jacobs Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker From my experience using one of these in my Wrangler, the Detroit only ratchets when inside tire is NOT under power. Otherwise, the inside tire tries to keep up with the outside tire. Then after the turn, the detroit wants to straighten things out and you get some more quirkiness. Pulls to the left or right depending on the just completed turn. As I said in a previous post, I doubt this would be much fun to have in the winter, at least on a short wheel-base vehicle. -----Original Message----- From: am14 [mailto:am14 Sent: Thursday, September 30, 1999 9:37 AM To: 61-79-list Subject: FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker Wish writes: >>a lot heartier I'm sure, but also a bit tougher on tires for those who drive on asphalt ... OK Wish !!! Explain it. My understanding of the Detroit locker is that it uses the rotation of the inside tire to pull you through a corner and the outside tire "ratchets"(freewheels at a faster rate) around. No binding at all like in a "Cone" or "Clutch" rear...Easier on the drive line as well as on the tires. Inquireing minds want to know ! ! ! Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:01:52 -0400 From: am14 Subject: FTE 61-79 - LS rear Wish writes: >>The best way to tell for sure is going to be to leave the car in park, put both wheels off the ground, then spin one of them, if the other spins in the same direction, its LSD, if its an opposite direction its an open ... I know you can't just run out and check that, but it'll tell you for sure when you are there ... Yo Wish !!!! If you have it in Park, and it is a limited slip, you won't be able to turn either wheel. Now if it is in Neutral, your instructions are correct. Those clutches have a breaking force of something like 270 ft lbs!!!! Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:11:03 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question Bill, what happens with DS unlocked is that the inertia and oil in the diff will supply enough resistance to turning the input quill that the opposit tire will turn in the opposit direction with no additional effort to lock the quill when you turn the other one whereas if it is limited slip the clutches have enough preload on them (if not completely worn out) that it will over come all those factors and turn the input quil instead so both tires go the same direction. This action is what makes it a limited slip. It will slip with effort and the more effort that is applied before it slips the less likely it will slip which is why you can make them grab when necessary simply by applying brakes which forces the side gears tighter against the walls of the diff housing, compressing the clutches and generating more locking force. The problem with this method is that you have to make sure the brakes are not adding to the mess and upsetting your results or that the gear lube is not turned to tar etc.. :-) Probably the most reliable way would be to leave one tire on the ground and test the amount of effort needed to get the quill to turn, allowing for any brake drag on the wheel you are turning etc.. Normally an open diff will turn fairly easily and, most of all, smoothly but the LS will be hard to turn and you should be able to feel a start/stop grab effect when you try to move it due to the clutches where this sensation would not be present with an open diff. The clutches should cause a hesitation, like someone holding it and then suddenly releasing it that you can actually feel in the movement. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > Oh, I'll have to check that again then ... you're right > thinking about it I > unlocked the DS, not locked it ... then if they spin opposite > they are open > and the same its an LSD ... I have tried this, it does work (factory == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:27:23 -0400 From: Larry Bouthiette Subject: FTE 61-79 - Parts available I am rebuilding a '73 F250 and I have an NP435, transfer case and drive shafts from the engine donor, a '76 F150. They came off a 360. I'm in Central Mass if anyone is interested email me at larryb $400 obo if picked up for everything. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:46:27 EDT From: BDIJXS Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 Headers Hey Don, Are you talking about the bolt under below the #3 pipe into the heads? (both sides). I used studs all the way around rather than bolts. If you want the stud kit part number, I can find it out for you, but it was really the way to go! The studs under the #3 positions had to have the heads ground slightly to accept the header bend. That, and a slight Wish-approved "modification" to the collector with a hammer (to allow some clearance around the oil pan flange on the passenger side) was all that was needed. I'm hoping the silicone does what its supposed to....I didn't use any exhaust gaskets, did you? Also, how are you going to do the exhaust pipe hookup to the collector? Will a "donut" work here? I'd really like to stay away from those lame collector gaskets that ALWAYS blow out, even if they are doubled-up..... Oh ya, I also had to do a slight modification on the oil dipstick....but nothing too major.... CJ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:46:31 EDT From: BDIJXS Subject: FTE 61-79 - Seattle List Members?? This is Colorado Jeff (CJ) asking to see if there are any list members in Seattle who might have some time in the next couple of weeks to get together for breakfast or lunch.....the standard deal is that I will pay if your truck is running!!!!!! CJ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:53:32 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Detroit locker That is my understanding too but apparently there is a lock mechanism when going straight that actually locks them until a turn forces the lock to kick out sometimes with a bang and a lurch and then it ratchets after that. In any case the reason it is hard on tires is due to the fact that in a turn the inside tire does ALL the work and on top of that insult has to carry the outside tire and all it's resistance so there is more slippage where the LS is still a true differential and both tires will pull in a corner under light throttle conditions. The tighter the turn the more the clutches will complain which is why they put that slippery stuff in there to more or less nullify the LS function IMNSHO :-) Doesn't chatter, lasts a lot longer but doesn't do anything :-( Both have the nasty quirk of becoming more agressive the harder you apply the power in the turn with the squirrely results we always hear about :-) When both tires turn at the same speed in a turn you will either drift sideways or push to the outside of the curve or corner, basically running off the road in either case. You won't be able to steer which is why the differential was introduced in the first place :-) The info I've gleaned from the lists so far is that sometimes the locker hangs on a tad too long into a turn and causes a little twitch untill it unlocks. The LS has never caused me any trouble I can recall but most of them do not act agressive under normal cornering throttle settings, especially in sharp corners where you let off the gas most of the time. I originally had mine in a 2wd van and then added 4wd to it. That van was, hands down, even in 2wd, the most tractive vehicle I've ever owned until I met the mighty bronco :-) Even with open diffs the bronco does very well :-) (won't go through 4' of wet snow though :-)) My impression of all this is that the LS will not save you in deep, gumbo mud (still better than open) but is a welcome help on snow and ice and even offers some assistance on wet pavement by putting more torque to the tractive tire so there is less chance of spinning on a hard take off etc.. I have no experience with the locker so am only stating what I've heard from those who do :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > My understanding of the Detroit locker is that it uses the > rotation of the > inside tire to pull you through a corner and the outside tire > "ratchets"(freewheels at a faster rate) around. No binding > at all like in a > "Cone" or "Clutch" rear...Easier on the drive line as well as > on the tires. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:59:16 -0400 From: am14 Subject: FTE 61-79 - Header coatings CJ writes: >> Anyway, the coating was provided by someone named "Airborne" and it looks pretty tough....hope this helps!!!!! Only way they could have a better name is if they had "Ranger" also tacked onto it, but "Airborne" has to be good. Azie Ardmore, Al. Former Airborne Ranger (probably more years ago than most on this list are old) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 12:06:24 -0400 From: am14 Subject: FTE 61-79 - Flex plate 460 David writes: >> I have to go to the almighty list to find out if the flex plate from my donor 400 vehicle will work with my 460? If not how can I get the parts guy to understand that even though there was no 460 in a 4x4 in 1971 (block casting number D1VE A2B) or in 1978 the year of the truck I still need a flex plate. Just have him look it up for a car? The 400 will not work. Different crankshaft bolt patterns. Order one for a car. It will work fine. Doesn't Ford use "Flywheel" instead of "Flex plate"???? Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:25:54 -0600 (MDT) From: Scott William Richmond Subject: FTE 61-79 - Changing gears Hi everyone, There have been a number of threads lately about changing rear diffs for various reasons. I have a '67 Mercury 1/2 ton with 3.70 gears and a 240 I6 and 3-speed standard. On the highway at 65 mph the engine revs at about 3000-3100 rpm. The problem with this is even with such a small motor, it goes through almost as much gas as my old '71 with the 360 and 3.54 gears at highway speed. My questions are: do you think it would help significantly if I swapped in my spare set of gears which are 3.25's? Also, do you think it is harmful to the I6 to rev at this speed for 2-3 hours constantly? There are approximately 160,000 miles on the motor. Thanks, Scott == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 14:39:51 -0400 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Changing gears The faster it has to run the sooner it will wear out but I-6's have been running those rpms for years from the factory and live a long time too :-) 3.25 is a tad tall for the I-6 in a truck if you plan to do any more than run back and forth to work with it but.......if you just cruise then it may actually work out for you. The 78's came with 2.75's with the 351M and it turns out to be plenty gutsy. Most lincolns came with the 3.25 gears too. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > My questions are: do you think it would help significantly if > I swapped in > my spare set of gears which are 3.25's? Also, do you think > it is harmful > to the I6 to rev at this speed for 2-3 hours constantly? There are > approximately 160,000 miles on the motor. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 13:56:34 -0500 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - LS rear > Yo Wish !!!! If you have it in Park, and it is a limited slip, > you won't be > able to turn either wheel. Now if it is in Neutral, your > instructions are > correct. Those clutches have a breaking force of something like > 270 ft lbs!!!! > Thanks Azie, apparently I missed this one big and bad ... but since the car I did the testing on was a 5spd, I coudln't remember if I'd had it in gear or not (yes some parts of Iowa are flat, like my driveway :) As for the brake drag affecting it, those would have to be some seriously grabby brakes ... and I would think youwould hear it ... at any rate this was just offered as a quick way to tell ... the other of course is to nail the gas in a corner and see what happens ... On the Detroit Locker issue, I think they pretty much covered it, but basically (I haven't seen the diagram of how the gears or anything work, but I have a theoretical understanding of it, meaning in theory I understand it :) ... anyway its pretty much just a "coast" mode that lets the outside one ratchet along when you're turning with the power off, but as soon as you hit the gas, they will lock together and cause them to spin at the same speed (I"ll let you guess what happens to the rear of the car then) ... the reason I say this is hard on tires is cause I can't remember the last time I "coasted" all the way through a turn ... especially not off of a stoplight ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 4.6L 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 13:17:45 -0600 From: "Danger" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question > What do you mean by "2 piece"?? All 9" have a third member with a > differential housing for the pinion gears etc.. Are you saying the housing > is two pieces? I'm pretty sure the one I rebuilt came apart and has 4 > pinions in it. I've heard there is a two pinion version as well and this is > not nearly as strong simply due to lack of the other two pinions. Is this > what you mean? > -- > Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, > 78 Bronco Loving, Gary ........ The Haynes and Chilton manuals refer to the 4 pinion LS as "2 piece case with limited slip". At least they call the 2 pinion LS a "2 pinion with limited slip" Danger danger == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 16:02:48 EDT From: JUMPINFORD Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hank!! In a message dated 99-09-30 07:09:17 EDT, you write: > It sure is nice to know some of yall still listen to Hank Jr. His music makes for some of the most awesome wheelin Ive ever done. Family Tradition especially, with dads 75 F-250 4x4, my bros 84 F-150, and my Tweety, well we really just have a blast playin ole Hank. Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 16:10:47 -0400 From: kpayne Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-) Congrats! - -Ken "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote: > > Well it's been a busy week so far....My grand daughter was born Monday night > just before midnight, Weighs in at a whopping 5 pounds 11 Oz, 19.5" long and > BEAUTIFUL! Mom had some problems with pre-eclampsia but is doing better now == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 19:32:05 -0400 From: "Rick & Debbie Kelso" Subject: Re: Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cheap Insurance Does anyone know of a good company to purchase insurance from? If you are in Tennessee or Virginia, I can help you. I represent Traveler's. We offer, what I consider to be the BEST auto/homeowner's policies you can get. I can be contacted privetly at the above e-mail address. Plus, it's sometimes an advantage to purchase auto insurance from someone who understands the specialty car industry. Thanks, R. Kelso == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 16:50:00 -0700 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re:FTE 61-79 - Cheap Insurance > Does anyone know of a good company to purchase insurance from? > I just checked out www.insweb.com ( think that is what it is) Not many agents are taking part in my area but if you live in a Metro area you might have better luck. - -- Don Grossman duckdon 99 Contour 63 F-100 4x4 43 GPW == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 19:47:33 EDT From: JUMPINFORD Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1978 Ford F150 Supercab 4x4 parting out sale: In a message dated 9/30/99 7:37:31 AM Pacific Daylight Time, DR11AGON writes: rust, 2 cabs to chose from, solid 8' bed, good drivetrain: 351M(crane cam, edelbrock intake, holley 4 barrel, flowtech headers, dual exhaust with h-pipe and flowmasters), C-6 tranny, transfer case, Ford 9" rear(3.50 gears), Dana44 front(3.50 gears), new doors, new door weatherstrip, new front window visor, new parking brake cable, 1/2 good tread on 35" B.F. Goodrich All-Terrain. Call for prices. mileage: 138000. >> I keep seein this, and I hafta ask. With all those goodies on the truck, why part it out? What doesnt it have? Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 19:44:01 EDT From: JUMPINFORD Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-) Congratulations. I trust in about 15 yrs you'll be posting a letter about her "new" 77 F-250 4x4? Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 19:26:28 -0500 From: "Norm" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New arrival :-) From: Peters, Gary (G.R.) > Well it's been a busy week so far....My grand daughter was born Monday night > just before midnight, Weighs in at a whopping 5 pounds 11 Oz, 19.5" long and Congrats Gary!!!!!!! Hope all is well and sounds like ya have reason to be proud! Norm/Tracie dahorse http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=231 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jvlnet.com/~dahorse == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 17:24:28 -0700 From: "Dan & Cheryl Ledford" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Horn not working I wrote a while back about getting a wiring diagram because my horn doesn't work. Here's the story: The horn itself works 'cause I can hot wire it to the battry and in operates. replaced the horn relay (field relay in the maintenance books). The horn wire (yellow) goes from the horn to the relay. A yellow wire (I assume a continuation) goes from the horn relay to the starter relay, battery terminal. A blue/yellow wire also goes from the horn relay to the steering column harness. All steering elements seem to be in place (rings, spring pins, etc.) The horn should work if I "jump" the horn spring pin to the steering column center shaft ( or to any other ground point). Right? Any ideas? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 20:22:14 EDT From: JUMPINFORD Subject: FTE 61-79 - ooooops. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=172394861 DUH, heres the address. Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 18:46:21 -0600 From: "Matthew Senn" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Horn not working yes . . . in fact, when i replaced my steering wheel earlier this summer, i accidentally grounded the horn circuit on the column shaft with my hand and got quite a little jolting surprise . . . - ----- Original Message ----- From: Dan & Cheryl Ledford To: Sent: Thursday, September 30, 1999 6:24 PM Subject: FTE 61-79 - Horn not working > I wrote a while back about getting a wiring diagram because my horn doesn't > work. Here's the story: > The horn itself works 'cause I can hot wire it to the battry and in > operates. replaced the horn relay (field relay in the maintenance books). > The horn wire (yellow) goes from the horn to the relay. A yellow wire (I > assume a continuation) goes from the horn relay to the starter relay, > battery terminal. A blue/yellow wire also goes from the horn relay to the > steering column harness. All steering elements seem to be in place (rings, > spring pins, etc.) > The horn should work if I "jump" the horn spring pin to the steering > column center shaft ( or to any other ground point). Right? Any ideas? > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 21:28:41 EDT From: TBeeee Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 428 Crank on ebay In a message dated 9/30/99 8:35:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, JUMPINFORD > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=172394861 > > DUH, heres the address. A $600 starting bid on a crank sight unseen....Don't everyone bid at once. CJ I think we need a recon mission. Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 18:28:49 -0700 From: Mike Pacheco Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Seattle List Members?? Count me in... I live in Burien which is south of Seattle, work in Kent... and my truck is finally running... with my new 351C. Mike in Burien e-mail me... mikepacheco == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 18:30:28 -0700 From: Mike Pacheco Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Flex plate 460 Thought flex-plate was for automatics and flywheel for clutch type applications.... probably wrong tho... Mike in Burien == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 18:39:29 -0700 (PDT) From: canzus Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Changing gears At 11:25 AM 30:9:99 -0600, Scott William Richmond wrote: >My questions are: do you think it would help significantly if I swapped in >my spare set of gears which are 3.25's? Also, do you think it is harmful.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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