61-79-list-digest V3 #352

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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, September 29 1999 Volume 03 : Number 352

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: gas mileage
RE: FTE 61-79 - 3.8 head gasket blower, AOD :-(
FTE 61-79 - Timing
RE: FTE 61-79 - 3.8 head gasket blower
RE: FTE 61-79 - 74 f250 gas mileage
RE: FTE 61-79 - Bed Bolts
Re: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Failed emissions test
Re: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - Hard hot start
RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?
RE: THANKS! Re: FTE 61-79 - '72 F100 360/390ci Timing?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Way to go Ken!!!!
FTE 61-79 - backfire(?) popping
FTE 61-79 - C6 cooler lines
RE: FTE 61-79 - 74 f250 gas mileage
RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Help! Failed emissions test
RE: FTE 61-79 - Timing
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Failed emissions test
FTE 61-79 - 75 Explorer stripes, sources?
Re: FTE 61-79 - C6 cooler lines
RE: FTE 61-79 - Torque/HP Description
Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Failed emissions test
RE: FTE 61-79 - 74 f250 gas mileage
FTE 61-79 - starter for manual trans vs auto trans
RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?
FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - starter for manual trans vs auto trans
Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Failed emissions test
Re: FTE 61-79 - Timing
Re: FTE 61-79 - backfire(?) popping
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Failed emissions test
FTE 61-79 - Headers
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?
Re: FTE 61-79 - ford parts for sale
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: gas mileage
Re: FTE 61-79 - 75 Explorer stripes, sources?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 75 Explorer stripes, sources?
RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Headers
Re: FTE 61-79 - C6 cooler lines

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 03:51:09 -0600
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: gas mileage

> I have a 4wd Crew Cab '76 F-250 with a 390 and a 4spd and I can't get
better
> than 8mpg. I have dreams of getting even 10 mpg, of course I would never
> trade my FE 390... Now my Bronco with an EFI 302 gets 17 mpg...
>
> I'm in WA too...
>
> Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje

mindspring.com
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.off -road.

com /~2big/
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
...........

OMG!,.... With the price of gas, I'd throw a fit if one of my 390's were
only getting 8 MPG. I've seen anywhere from 11 MPG to 14 MPG in my 69 F250's
with 390 4 bbls (one T-18 & 3.55, and one C6 & 4.11). The 460 in my 92 F250
HD 4x4 got anywhere from 8 MPG (camper & boat) to 11 MPG.

Danger
danger

csolutions.net

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 06:38:34 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 3.8 head gasket blower, AOD :-(

Gang, read this with care, it's EXACTLY what happens with the 94 :-( Mine
is so bad now it even slips at 55 when I give it too much gas well after the
shift is complete and all parts are well seated :-(

Ditto the 3.8 :-) I'm sure it has some limits but I push mine just like any
other engine I've had and it's running well at over 70k now :-) It is not
abused by any means since it's the "Family" car but I don't baby it except
for the 3-4 shift point.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Tom, the tranny in your bird is probably a 4R70W, the failure
> that Gary refers to is the torque converter (lock up clutch).
> Early symptom is a shudder when going into 4th, which mine
> has had for a couple of years now. The shudder can be very
> subtle, I really only notice it when the car is cold (wife's
> car). More recently, it has developed a very hard shift into
> second, again when cold. I originally drove this car every day,
> and NEVER liked the shifting - it seemed as though is was
> programmed to get into OD as fast as possible, and stay there.
> Probably Ford trying to boost its CAFE ratings (Corporate
> Average Fuel Economy), as per federal mandates :-(
>
> No complaints about the 3.8, but it only has 80k miles on it. .
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 03:57:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill Ballinger
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Timing

You could have a bad valve spring, but the engine
would miss, and I don't see anything in your post
about a miss. Check to see that your vacuam and
centrifugal advances are coming in, you can see this
at the balancer as you speed the engine up, vacuam
advance, if on a manifold port will come in as soon
you put the hose on. Mechanical will come in full by
3000 rpms.

If your cam has been replaced, the factory specs are
rarely correct. It sounds to me like your timing is
too slow. Bump it up to 14 and see if the backfire
goes away. I have a bigger cam in my '65 and I run it
at 13, but whoever installed initially set it up 4 d
advanced, and it had to have 22 degrees initial to run
even clse to right. I set it back to straight up and
it's a little more normal. It threw me when I got the
cover off because I expected it to be retarded, but it
was advanced.

Anyway, you likely just need to use a vacuam guage to
time it. Go for the highest vacuam at idle.

>>>>>>>>>> > > When do you get it ?
Accelerating ? Decelerating ? On warmup
only ?
> ;-) It happens at idle; that's
when I notice it...

hmmm... I'd double check that all
theplugs are tight, and then check to
be
sure there were no exhaust leaks that
might be popping ... like a
burned out
doughnut at the end of the manifold,
or a leaky header gasket ...

Well; it happened before I replaced
the plugs; and I know I got
them all in good. I checked the
donughts and did a quick check
around the headers for exhaust leaks;
didn't find anything.
Possible it might be a bad/cracked
valve? It doesn't burn any oil;
and exhaust looks good....
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 06:48:58 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 3.8 head gasket blower

Ok, the light just went on :-) If the 3.8 does not over heat the aluminum
heads don't get abused and the gaskets stay put. This is not just a 3.8
problem it is an aluminum head on a cast iron block problem and the cure or
prevention is the same in every case. They absolutely will not tolerate
over heating. The aluminum expands at a much higher rate than either cast
iron or steel (head bolts) so it will work well within a certain range of
temperature extremes but this range is very, very narrow compared to cast
iron assemblies and must be adhered to if you want reliable service. My
first experience with this was with a non ford, 62 vintage, 215 cuin all
aluminum engine. It ran fine untill it started over heating then all
H**^*^*% broke loose :-( Block, heads.....all twisted up...:-(

Again, it's not just the 3.8 but the designe of the front wheel drive 3.8
applications may make it more prone to over heating and thus the bad rep.
I've seen Taurus applicaitons with this problem and apparently due to the
A/C for the most part.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> seems to be more
> prevalent with FWD cars. Run a search on Dogpile or any
> other search engine
> with the keywords "ford head gasket" and you'll likely find
> pages devoted to
> this malady. Particularly Windstars and Taurus/Sables.
>
> My own experience is that if you keep the cooling system in
> good working
> order
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 07:04:18 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 74 f250 gas mileage

What was the old tire size? Most of these came with tires in the 30"
diameter range. Based on that, assuming the 4.10's were stock (most were)
you are off by 400 rpm or 10 mph according to my Excel spread sheet. Your
stock rpm at 60 would have been 2810. With 35" tires it's 2409 at 60 mph.
At 2810 with 35's and 4.10's your speed is 69.9 mph :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Hi I own a 74 f250 4X4 highboy with a 360. Just wondering what other
> guys are getting for mileage. That last time i went on a big
> trip with
> the truck i got 10 mpg i think i should be getting more. One factor i
> have not taking into effect is that im running 35" with 410 gears. Is
> there a program on the net that with calculate the actual speed that i
> am traveling based on my new tire size?.
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 07:08:20 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Bed Bolts

My 78 uses 9/16 or 5/8, can't remember but they are bigger than 1/2" and yes
they are carriage bolts and yes they are a few inches different in length
depending on location. Mine uses 8 bolts as I recall.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> They are 1/2 inch bolts, I suggest you get grade-5 at least,

> off-hand what size
> >bolts I need? Looks like about a 7/16 coarse thread
> carriage bolt 5 or 5
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 06:48:31 -0500
From: "Norm"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question

> In an attempt to pull a stuck vehicle, I spun the front tires and the rear
> tires didn't move at all.

In the NP 205........you can achieve low range front wheel drive
only.....all it requires is a bit to much forward movement of the low range
lever (It needs to be adjusted).Makes for some really weird looks from
onlookers when this happens! But nothing is wrong............it just needs
to be adjusted so you can't move the lever so far forward!

Norm/Tracie dahorse

jvlnet.com " Babied & Pampered"
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=231
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jvlnet.com/~dahorse

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 14:16:30 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question

> > In an attempt to pull a stuck vehicle, I spun the front tires and the rear
> > tires didn't move at all.
>
> In the NP 205........you can achieve low range front wheel drive
> only.....all it requires is a bit to much forward movement of the low range
> lever (It needs to be adjusted).Makes for some really weird looks from
> onlookers when this happens! But nothing is wrong............it just needs
> to be adjusted so you can't move the lever so far forward!

I've had it pop out of gear too, sounded like something broke.. I think
in my case it was the front wheel drive that disengaged. I knew I had bad
u-joints (they were squealing and grinding) so at first I feared one of
them had broken and got somebody to pull me out. Then later I found out
nothing had happened.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:20:48 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Hard hot start

Heat soak can be over heating of the starter but true heat soak is within
the engine and is the transfer of heat from super heated parts which are now
not being cooled either by flowing oil or coolant. It causes the pistons to
expand among other things causing it to act like an over heated engine for
just a few minutes. You can determine which it is by visually inspecting
the starter area of the engine. If the exhaust is routed within a few
inches of the starter this is a possiblility. Typically this happens with
headers but not with stock exhaust.

The starter could also be bad or you could have a bad connection in one of
the cables which reduces the starter voltage at full crank causing it to
lose power. If you can restart imedialtely several times when this normally
happens it is not the starter, it is the engine seizing. To test this, run
down the road at speed for 15 minutes (or until fully warmed up) to heat
things up. Now shut off the engine and imediately try to restart it. I'm
betting it will start easily. Now let it sit for about 7 minutes and try
again. Bet it bogs right? This has nothing to do with the starter since it
is located in a relatively cool area of the block and the exhaust tubing
does not retain heat very long and the intense heat disapates very quickly
once the source is stopped.

This phenomena is due to the massive size of the the crank in these engines
and also the "Lean burn" philosophy and higher thermostat settings used in
this design. There is a very small window of time, under the right
conditions which will cause this.

There is another, related, anomoly which can happen in engines with wrist
pins which are pressed into the rod rather than the piston where the crank
transfers enough heat into the rod to expand the wrist pins enough to make
them bind in the pistons. This usually happens an a fresh engine which has
been built to minimum clearances and is rare but it has been documented.

Another kind of heat soak, usually called percolation, is caused by the same
phenomenon but causes the intake manifold to absorb the heat which
litterally boils the fuel in the fuel bowls flooding the engine. Since rich
mixtures require less advance than lean the engine will buck when you try to
start it and this may not be readily apparent by the sound but it is trying
to run backward when you start it causing the starter to have to work a lot
harder.

Often, the problem you speak of is actually a combination of all three of
these since when one exists the others probably will too to some extent
which can only add to the burden of the starter.

One way to reduce this tendency is to retard the spark a tad but then you
cause the exhaust to heat up and economy goes down the drain in a hurry.
The normal method is to static time it to about 6 degrees using normal
static timing methods or dynamically with a light. Timing by ear at idle is
not an effective way to do this since at idle the engine is in it's leanest
state of tune and requires considerable advance to run correctly. If he
means by moving it and running it down the road then this can be done but is
time consuming. The only effective "ear" timing method is to run the
vehicle up against a tree, have someone operate the gas and build the power
up to road speed conditions while fooling with the dizzy or put it on a rear
wheel dyno and do this. Obviously the first scenerio is very dangerous as
is the second since the engine will be revved up and the danger of parts
coming unglued with your face near them is very high.

It's best to have a starting point you know is close and bump it 2 degrees
at a time, road testing each time, until you get spark knock then back it
off 2 degrees. Spark knock usually occures at low rpms under heavy load
such as stepping on it hard in second at about 10 mph or high gear at about
20 mph or pulling a long, steep hill with a load. If you try hard enough
you can induce knock in almost any engine under these conditons even with
timing set correctly so you have to weigh your driving style against the
potential damage this can cause in the upper ring land of the pistons.
Excessive, persistant spark knock can melt the edges or even the centers of
the pistons.

I am currently running at 8 degrees advance and this allow for some knock at
low speeds under heavy lugging conditions. Since I rarely run into this I
am satisfied with it and it gives better economy than 6 degrees which still
knocks but at even more outrageous load conditions. It will start and run
at 10 degrees but the spark knock happens at a point which I often encounter
in my style of driving around town so is unacceptable to me.

You absolutely must have a working Vac advance system and it needs to be
properly set for your application for best "Touring" timing characteristics
and the mechanical advance must be working properly too. Either of these,
out of tune, will throw off your initial timing requirments so that the
engine never runs at it's optimum no matter what you do. In this case the
engine will only be timed correctly under one very narrow set of
circumstances and I'm sure you can see that's not a good thing :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

>
> and check the
> timing, if there is too much advance it will start harder
> when its warm ...
> >>
>
> I'll have to try that cuz Envy's got that problem, after a
> few mins of
> driving she's hard to re-start, QUESTION: Do you know BTDC on
> a 400 engine?
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:28:55 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?

Trans brake???? You mean internally? Never heard of such a thing?? All
I've ever seen spin the drive shaft in neutral if you jack up both wheels or
even one and run it?? New, old, doesn't matter, they all do it that I've
seen?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> With an inoperable trans brake, the output shaft continues to spin in
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:55:52 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: THANKS! Re: FTE 61-79 - '72 F100 360/390ci Timing?

I too get an occasional back fire, literally through the carb, not the
exhaust (after fire) at a place in the accelleration cycle I would not
expect it. Only happens occasionally but the engine still runs fairly
smoothly so I assume it hasn't destroyed the power valve yet :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> However, I still get this really annoying "pop" everyonce in
> a while.
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:09:28 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Way to go Ken!!!!

> I used to really enjoy BON, especially back when it
> was fordworldnews.com. But as time has passed, the site has
> gotten more and more negative. It really saddens me. I think
> BON's day in the spotlight is over and its days are numbered.
>
> I'm staying away from the site.

Amen! I can't believe how far from what it was it has gotten ...I mean it
was cool to see the new stuff, and the "spy" photos, along with all the
rumors going around, but now most everything there is some sort of internal
document or something ... not anything that's really entertaining or even
all that informative (without all the rest of the internal documents to go
with it) ... Anyway I've also stopped frequenting that site ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 07:35:39 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - backfire(?) popping

Josh,

Does your truck have the AIR smog pump and all of the associated hoses? If
so, there is a check valve for each bank where the system splits into the
injection manifold. It is larger in diameter than the hose and has a series
of holes on the manifold side in a circle near the outer edge. When these
valves go bad, they allow exhaust gas to leak by. When they disintegrate,
you get a direct to atmosphere exhaust leak. On my 351M the AIR pump is on
the passenger side way down low under the alternator. It has a lone skinny
belt that runs off the crank pulley.

Just a thought...

- -- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:18:45 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 74 f250 gas mileage

> What was the old tire size? Most of these came with tires in the 30"
> diameter range. Based on that, assuming the 4.10's were stock
> (most were)
> you are off by 400 rpm or 10 mph according to my Excel spread

To properly state this, it should be listed as a percentage, cause at 0, you
aren't off any, and at 30 you will only be off 5, not 10 ... but isn't Excel
cool ? ;)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:14:20 -0500
From: Jeff Lester
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?

Gary,

Actually, what I meant to say was... The internals responsible for locking
the output shaft in *Park* are shot. Gotta remember to stomp on the parking
brake before gettin out, or Scooby will run away 8^)

Jeff Lester and Scooby - La Porte, Texas
78 Ford E350 4x4, 460, C6, NP205, D44/70, 35" BFG MT's
http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1978_e350_1.html

On Wednesday, September 29, 1999 7:29 AM, Peters, Gary (G.R.) [SMTP:gpeters3

visteon.com] wrote:
> Trans brake???? You mean internally? Never heard of such a thing?? All
> I've ever seen spin the drive shaft in neutral if you jack up both wheels or
> even one and run it?? New, old, doesn't matter, they all do it that I've
> seen?
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
> --
>
> > With an inoperable trans brake, the output shaft continues to spin in
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:23:00 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Help! Failed emissions test

> Although I am not sure where you would find the
> correct procedure on carb adjustment....... But i'll bet someone
> here has a
> source!

I dunno about correct, but this should get you in the ball park at least :

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Tech/Tuneup/tune.html

This may end up a touch rich for emissions testing, so just crank the screws
in a half turn or whatever from where you get ... also be sure that your
choke is completely shutting itself off when the truck is warmed up (right
DaveR ?)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:25:18 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Timing

> If your cam has been replaced, the factory specs are
> rarely correct.

Always good to keep in mind ...

> It sounds to me like your timing is
> too slow. Bump it up to 14 and see if the backfire
> goes away.

The backfire might away, but he retarded the timing 'cause of pinging at
that advance...

> Anyway, you likely just need to use a vacuam guage to
> time it. Go for the highest vacuam at idle.
>

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Tech/Tuneup/tune.html

Remember, its still possible to get too much advance, some of us run so much
compression that we have that problem, that and the hot start situations
where too much advance is a bad thing (though I'm sure Duraspark helps for
those that have it)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:26:37 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question

> > > Um.... What's wrong with posi?
> >
> >its a Ch*vy term ...
> >
> > > It won't fit in a Lincoln
> > > Versailles 9"?
> > >
> >
> >It might, ;) but a Trac-Loc should fit ... its a slightly
> different design
> >principle, but in the end they all do the same (or similar) things ...
>
> What you want to call it is a Detroit {Detroy-it for you Canucks}
> Locker.
> They make a funny clicking noise when turning, but are the finest
> locking differentials made...IMNSHO.
>

They are sweet, but they are also quite different from the posi/trac-loc
units which are mostly clutch based .. the Detroit is gear based for all its
actions ... a lot heartier I'm sure, but also a bit tougher on tires for
those who drive on asphalt ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 06:26:53 -0700
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Failed emissions test

Jim:

My 71 360 2v also failed the emissions test just after I bought it. My
solution was to have a friend who had a collection of jets come over and
rejet the carb and adjust the float level. My truck came from a no
testing area of Washington State into a testing area.

Hope this helps.

Tim Bowman
Burien, WA

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 09:56:44 EDT
From: Sandoz2545

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 75 Explorer stripes, sources?

Were the 75 Explorer stripes painted on, or a decal? I think the stripes
look really cool and I want to put some on my 77 shortbed. I've looked most
everywhere, and Autokrafters website. Does anyone have a source for vinyl
reproductions of these stripes?

Thanks,
Eric Payne
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 09:56:57 EDT
From: L7514

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - C6 cooler lines

More on this subject. I have a 79 Ranger that had front end damage. It has
a 302 auto. My parts truck has a 302 manual. I am wanting to go with the
radiator out of the parts truck which doesn't have a tranny cooler in it,
because it will bolt right onto the core sppt. Does anyone have any
suggestions on what type or brand of aux. tranny cooler I should go with?
Also, the best place to get one? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
in advance!
Lance
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 10:29:04 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Torque/HP Description

Don't have the link but the differnce is very simple:

HP relies on torque for it's calculation.
Torque is the actual force generated by the engine when it turns, regardless
of speed.

HP is torque measured over time, using rpm as the time/distance value

This is why a small, short stroke engine like the 302 can generate lot's of
HP but not a whole lot of torque making it a poor truck engine but the 400
will pull very hard with relatively low HP numbers due to lower rpm ceiling.

Typically Torque peak is reached relatively low in the rpm range where max
HP is reached near the red line because, up to a point, the faster it goes
the more work is being done, mathmatically at least. The low rpm torque
peak is due to the fact that the engine has reached it's absolutely best
efficiency speed where the incoming air is able to completely fill the
combustion chambers (and cylinders of course) and produces the most cylinder
pressure thereby also producing the most "torque".

Truck engines reach this point sooner in the rpm range than racing motors
which may have relatively high torque peaks due to reliance on such things
as exhaust and intake tuning and cam specs which produce the most cylinder
pressure at higher rpms and which are actually handycapped at lower rpms
because they rely on air stream velocity and inertia to get more mixture
into the cylinders etc..

Theoretically you can get a shaft spinning at a certain high speed and
disconnect the power source and it will have HP based on it's Mass and speed
but since there is no power to continue it's rotation if a load is placed on
it, it will slow down very quickly and come to a complete stop due to "lack
of torque" input. Of course while it is spinning it has torque which can be
calculated and given a number but since this relies on the mass at speed it
will not act like a truck engine and pull at lower speeds which is kind of
like the race engine comparison.

The way an engine is tested on a dyno is always at WOT at various rpm and
loads. You progressivley load the engine untill WOT is reached and the
desired rpm at which you wish to test is also reached and the engine is able
to sustain that rpm at WOT. You then read the load in "Pounds" which
calculates, using the length of the arm used in the dyno, directly to
"torque" and then calculate HP using this value and the rpm and some
constants. Torque is the force actually applied to the dyno at any given
speed and actually drops off as engine speed and HP go up beyond the torque
peak rpm. Max or Peak HP is the point at which the climbiing rpm can not
make up for the drop in torque and the calculated HP value begins to drop
again.

Now, I want your candid opinion......was that lay terms?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Does anyone have that link to the explanation (in laymen's
> terms) on the
> difference between torque and horsepower???????????
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 10:30:17 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Failed emissions test

Here is a web site that explains automotive emissions pretty good. Since
they are not testing for NOx, I would have said leanthe crap out of it.
According to this article, it seems as though you might be lean, as CO
is way down. Possibly a severe lean misfire is not burning all the fuel
and making HC's come up. I would also retard the timing. There is a good
list of what causes HC, so you could try doing things to eliminate it.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cemr.wvu.edu/~englab/Tutorials/EmissTut/Emiss_SI.html#SUM

OX
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 11:04:43 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 74 f250 gas mileage

My speedo isn't calibrated in Percent and I don't care how far off I am at
30 since it will always be lower than at 60 and therefore relatively close
to the speed limit so I just use 60 for my calculations. You can then,
almost perfectly calculate in your head for 30 by dividing the mph it's off
at 60 by 2 so if it's off by 10 at 60 it will be off by 5 at 30 etc.. This
may not be exact but neither are the radar units they use to track it so
we're even :-)

And, yes, with certain reservations, Excel is pretty neat :-)

I will admit that in some areas of the country and in some towns, even in
Michigan, all this is more meaningful than in others so accuracy might be
more important to some than to me :-) Here 5 mph is ignored almost
universally but in Columbus, GA or Anywhere, Ohio you better watch your
speed very closely :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > What was the old tire size? Most of these came with tires
> in the 30"
> > diameter range. Based on that, assuming the 4.10's were stock
> > (most were)
> > you are off by 400 rpm or 10 mph according to my Excel spread
>
> To properly state this, it should be listed as a percentage,
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 10:26:21 -0500
From: David.R.John

deluxe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - starter for manual trans vs auto trans

Can anyone tell me if I will need a different starter for my 460 when I
make the change from 4spd to the C6 auto. Can I just buy some different
parts to make the manual starter an auto starter? Will the starter out of
my donor vehicle (400) work in the 460?

Thanks,

David

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 11:41:21 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?

This has always been a problem for me. How do you get it reliably into low
range with an auto? In park of course the gears can't move to align
themselves and in neutral the input shaft is spinning and the ouput shaft is
stationary so they will grind. Over the years I had my van I used to
alternate between the two trying to decide which has the best chance of
working but never really came to any conclusion except that, with a little
grinding, I could always get it in in neutral and it was 50/50 in park :-)
In neutral a quick shove usually got it done with no grinding but if you
tarry.........you wind up in limbo and have to shut the engine off to get it
in :-( Your park pawl is probably worn out due to this very scenerio
because the other option is to slam it into park to stop the input shaft,
put some mighty pressure on the shifter and take it back out of park. A
very noisy operation to say the least but at least you don't have to shut
the engine off :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Actually, what I meant to say was... The internals
> responsible for locking
> the output shaft in *Park* are shot.
> >
> > > With an inoperable trans brake, the output shaft
> continues to spin in
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 10:36:40 -0500
From: "Brian C Nyman"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question

Okay, that was an interesting discussion as to "posi" vs "limited-slip." Now,
can someone answer my initial question - What does a rear end code "B" stand for
? Does it stand for limited-slip (Ford-speak) ? Is it any different than
something else ? Is it superior/inferior to any other kind of "LSD" ? I'd have
the VIN on hand, except for the fact that my workspace is 175+ miles away from
where I live. The Lincoln is in northern MN, and I live in the Twin Cities, so
I can't just run out to the garage and grab the VIN for a VIN check.

Brian Nyman
bnyman

allina.com

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 10:56:41 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?

I have a similar problem w/my C6 except I think the problem is in the column
not the tranny. I had a Ford mechanic friend check out the tranny and that
wasn't the problem. So I have to be very careful of leaving truck running in
park. Looking for a new column when I have time. Nice to have a Ford
mechanic as friend. Can anyone say parts discount! Eg: Ford Motorsport 9mm
plug wires for the 460 at 40 bucks.

-----Original Message-----
From: Peters, Gary (G.R.) [mailto:gpeters3

visteon.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 10:41 AM
To: '61-79-list

ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting
Question, Trans brake?

This has always been a problem for me. How do you get it
reliably into low
range with an auto? In park of course the gears can't move
to align
themselves and in neutral the input shaft is spinning and
the ouput shaft is
stationary so they will grind. Over the years I had my van
I used to
alternate between the two trying to decide which has the
best chance of
working but never really came to any conclusion except that,
with a little
grinding, I could always get it in in neutral and it was
50/50 in park :-)
In neutral a quick shove usually got it done with no
grinding but if you
tarry.........you wind up in limbo and have to shut the
engine off to get it
in :-( Your park pawl is probably worn out due to this very
scenerio
because the other option is to slam it into park to stop the
input shaft,
put some mighty pressure on the shifter and take it back out
of park. A
very noisy operation to say the least but at least you don't
have to shut
the engine off :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
--

> Actually, what I meant to say was... The internals
> responsible for locking
> the output shaft in *Park* are shot.
> >
> > > With an inoperable trans brake, the output shaft
> continues to spin in
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 10:59:31 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question

I purchased a used 3rd member (aren't they all?) from a '79 Bronco and it
had a LS and it was designated on the tag as follows: 3 L 50. 3.50 gears
with a limited slip. Have it in the Twin Cities if you want to see it. Also
have a LS for a 28 spline 3 series carrier if you're interested.

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian C Nyman [mailto:bnyman

allina.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 10:37 AM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question

Okay, that was an interesting discussion as to "posi" vs
"limited-slip." Now,
can someone answer my initial question - What does a rear
end code "B" stand for
? Does it stand for limited-slip (Ford-speak) ? Is it any
different than
something else ? Is it superior/inferior to any other kind
of "LSD" ? I'd have
the VIN on hand, except for the fact that my workspace is
175+ miles away from
where I live. The Lincoln is in northern MN, and I live in
the Twin Cities, so
I can't just run out to the garage and grab the VIN for a
VIN check.

Brian Nyman
bnyman

allina.com

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 12:05:03 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - starter for manual trans vs auto trans

AFAIK all the big blocks use the same drive and gear and even the same
housing for both applications. The only one which uses a smaller gear is
the 302 I believe? I use the 4 pole starter with the mounted selenoid on
all mine and they interchange between the 351 and 460 and I'm pretty sure
the auto as well. I say pretty sure because I ran into some funny tooth
numbers on different flywheels for the same application when doing some
research a while back which would also require a different drive. I've
never seen these but who knows?

The 3 pole starter is less torquy than the selenoid version which is why I
use it. I burned a couple of the "Positive engagement" 3 pole type up
before I discovered this :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Can anyone tell me if I will need a different starter for my
> 460 when I
> make the change from 4spd to the C6 auto. Can I just buy
> some different
> parts to make the manual starter an auto starter? Will the
> starter out of
> my donor vehicle (400) work in the 460?
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:18:13 -0800
From: "Matthew Schumacher"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Failed emissions test

Jim,

I would defiantly say that you should try to fix it yourself. It isn't
really hard to do and you will learn a bunch about your old truck. I
too, have a 76 here in alaska and am required to get emissions done as
well, though I have a 390 4bbl.

Fist of all I would recommend getting a book on carburetors. I picked
one up at the parts store for 8 bucks. Once you get a good carb book,
you will have all the info that you need to adjust the carb. I think
the best way to fix your problem would be to, first set the ignition
timing with a timing gun. Once you have the timing set, run the engine
for a while and listen to it. If it is missing then you might want to
replace the spark plug wires and the cap and rotor. Once you get
everything running good, start on the carb. I would first look at the
choke. Make sure that it closes when the truck is cold, and opens all
the way when it is warmed up. This little thing makes a big difference
on how your truck, runs hot or cold. Once you are happy with the choke
set the carb floats, your book will tell you how to do it. Now, set the
idle mixture, the book will have the details. Do not screw the needles
into the carb tightly otherwise you will damage them.

As long as you don't have a messed up carb, or an obvious problem such
as vacuum leaks your truck should pass emissions.

Hope this helps.

schu

>
> The guy that tested it said it was running too rich, the paperwork from the
> state said the high HC readings indicate it is running too lean. I'm
> supposed to take it to a shop on Tuesday to get it worked on but I kind of
> want to take a crack at adjusting it myself and take advantage of the free
> retest. So, should I just bite the bullet and pay to have this fixed or is
> it worth having a go at it myself (like I said I'm no mechanic, but I'm not
> completely incapable either). Thanks for any and all opinions.
>
> Jim
>
> jmckinney

icehouse.net
>
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 09:29:02 -0700
From: "Josh Assing"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Timing

> You could have a bad valve spring, but the engine
Well; when the timing was way off; it felt like a miss. But now; it is
so intermittent; that I really dont' "sense" a miss; but it could be.
How would I check the valve spring? And is there an (easy) way to
replace the valve springs w/o removing the head on these motors?

> about a miss. Check to see that your vacuam and
> centrifugal advances are coming in, you can see this
I notice it most at idle & decelleration. So I wouldn't think advance
would have much to do with it; but; I have checked; and they do.

> too slow. Bump it up to 14 and see if the backfire
It was at around 24 or so; I went back to 6, and am now at 8. The
backfire/popping happened before I adjusted the timing.
I can try it though.

> Anyway, you likely just need to use a vacuam guage to
> time it. Go for the highest vacuam at idle.
Right on. I can do that...

Thanks.

- -josh

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 09:25:42 -0700
From: "Josh Assing"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - backfire(?) popping

> Does your truck have the AIR smog pump and all of the associated hoses? If
No. It has no smog on it.

Thanks for the idea; tho.

- -josh
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 12:30:08 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question

I can't answer the code question but the LS ford put it their trucks was
pretty stout with 4 pinion gears and 31 splines. The whole assy is stronger
than the open diffs and easily as strong as any of the after market
replacements for the LS type.

Ford now uses the auburn LS which is just an improved version of the
Traction Loc but not rebuildable. They say it lasts longer and works better
than the OEM but is no stronger or harder to break AFAIK. These are the
only LS's I know of used in Ford trucks. Recent models may use the True
Trac or Torsen in some appications, not sure. These are gear type LS's and
have no clutches to wear out but they are not as strong as the OEM, clutch
type LS.

You can get stronger with non-ls types but if you don't need the true
lockers the ford "Traction Loc" is as good as any of them. They're pretty
easy to rebuild too :-) I have a 28 spline version which survived 4wd 10'
running start tuggs on logs with my 460 mashed to the floor. The 31 spline
is stronger yet. I'm hoping my 78 lincoln rear is 31 spline, pretty sure
it's LS :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> something else ? Is it superior/inferior to any other kind
> of "LSD" ? I'd have
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 09:51:09 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Help! Failed emissions test

Thanks for your message at 08:18 AM 9/29/99 -0800, Matthew Schumacher. Your
message was:
>Jim,
>
>I would defiantly say that you should try to fix it yourself.

No need to be defiant, man...chill out... 8>)
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 13:02:58 EDT
From: SMOKEY5209

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Headers

I need some input from fellow members on header selection. I would like some
info on small tube versus large tube headers. I need the pros and cons. I am
rebuilding a 390 and am trying to decide what to go with. Also pros and cons
of coating headers.
Thanks All
Ed
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 12:07:22 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question

The best way to tell for sure is going to be to leave the car in park, put
both wheels off the ground, then spin one of them, if the other spins in the
same direction, its LSD, if its an opposite direction its an open ... I know
you can't just run out and check that, but it'll tell you for sure when you
are there ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 12:15:35 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?

> This has always been a problem for me. How do you get it
> reliably into low
> range with an auto? In park of course the gears can't move to align
> themselves and in neutral the input shaft is spinning and the
> ouput shaft is
> stationary so they will grind.

I've never had a problem with this on my 203, in N on the gear shift, the
x-fer case has been fine (except for user error a couple times) ... on the
J**ps the instructions for them in 4Lo says rolling slowly, so I usually
just do N and let off the brake so it can roll if it wants/needs to ...
never really had a problem with the shafts turning in N ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 09:17:08 -0800
From: "Ross Johansson"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ford parts for sale

what do you have for 4bbl carbs??

- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 1999 8:02 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ford parts for sale

> hey guys and gals, i'm cleaning up the garage and have a few things to
sell,
> email me for a list. parts include: 351 w performance parts, 351 c parts,
> four barrel carbs,
> mustang parts, bronco parts.
>
> jjjjjgrant

aol.com
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 13:33:06 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Question

Bill, with drive shaft locked the side gears will roll around the pinion
gears no matter what type of system it has except for the detroit perhaps.
The clutch type LS is simply an open diff with clutches which bind one of
the side gears to the differential housing (carrier) which makes it
difficult to turn in any case unless the drive shaft is unlocked in which
case the input quill will turn along with the other tire and the other tire
will, in that case, turn with the one you are turning. The end result is
that one of the messhing gears in the system, side gears or pinions will not
turn on it's own axis so the other gears meshed with it can not turn either.
You only have to lock one to stop the whole sheebang :-) The designers
chose to use clutches and the cam action of the side gear to make the side
gear stop turning independently which effectively locks the whole sheebang
and you have a locked axle in that case but if you lock the drive shaft,
something has to give and since turning one wheel forces the gears inside
the housing to turn and the housing can't turn, the other axle HAS to turn
in the opposit direction in any case. With LS it just turns harder, that's
all :-)

A more likely test would be to leave the DS unlocked and if the tires turn
together AND the quill turns it's most likely a locker but if the opposit
tire has a tendency to turn in the opposite direction even with DS unlocked,
regardless of what the input is doing it's definitely open or the clutches
are not just worn, they are gone :-)

Of course all this hinges on the fact that neither brake is dragging
or........and then there's..........:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> The best way to tell for sure is going to be to leave the car
> in park, put
> both wheels off the ground, then spin one of them, if the
> other spins in the
> same direction, its LSD, if its an opposite direction its an
> open
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 10:40:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: gas mileage

Rade writes:
> I have a 4wd Crew Cab '76 F-250 with a 390 and a 4spd and I can't get better
> than 8mpg. I have dreams of getting even 10 mpg, of course I would never
> trade my FE 390... Now my Bronco with an EFI 302 gets 17 mpg...
>

8 is awfully low - even for an FE. I get around 12 with my 360 in
an F250 crew cab. What have you tried? - I'm thinking power valve.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 13:40:43 EDT
From: SevnD2

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 75 Explorer stripes, sources?

The stripes on my 76 Explorer are decals ! I am not sure but , seems like
they were of different colors depending on the color of the truck . I
remember a brown truck with these decals ( orange and some shade of yellow )
. The stripes on my green Explorer are white . I agree , I like the way they
look too !
Rollie H. Hunt
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 13:47:08 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 75 Explorer stripes, sources?

I have that God-awful brown colored explorer with tan/cream stripes:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony/76.html

If anybody does find a source for them, please inform me also, I would
like to change color of truck but put the stripes back on.

Thanks

Tony
tony

pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

At 01:40 PM 9/29/99 -0400, you wrote:
>The stripes on my 76 Explorer are decals ! I am not sure but , seems like
>they were of different colors depending on the color of the truck . I
>remember a brown truck with these decals ( orange and some shade of yellow )
>. The stripes on my green Explorer are white . I agree , I like the way they
>look too !
>Rollie H. Hunt
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 19:48:51 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Troubleshooting Question, Trans brake?

> This has always been a problem for me. How do you get it reliably into low
> range with an auto? In park of course the gears can't move to align

I usually back up, then while rolling backwards put the trans in neutral
and move the transfer case in low. As long as you don't STAY in neutral
there is no problem because the shaft doesn't have time to get spinning.
You can do it while you're standing still too, but either way I've had
good results with backing up first. Sometimes it goes at once, sometimes
uyou have to nurse it a little bit.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 13:51:31 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"....

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