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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #342
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61-79-list-digest Friday, September 24 1999 Volume 03 : Number 342



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - RE: Honing Cylinders
Re: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions-- Dana-60 rear brake job
RE: FTE 61-79 - Azie's comment
RE: FTE 61-79 - Azie's comment
RE: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions-- Dana-60 rear brake job
RE: FTE 61-79 - The Grasshopper & The Ant
RE: FTE 61-79 - Diesel bolt pattern
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running
RE: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running
FTE 61-79 - lights, the continuing saga
FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings- Dana 60
FTE 61-79 - Bulb Sockets
RE: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings- Dana 60
FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions-- Dana-60 rear brake job
RE: FTE 61-79 - Bulb Sockets
RE: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings- Dana 60
RE: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings- Dana 60
RE: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours
FTE 61-79 - Bearings-all
RE: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours
RE: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings- Dana 60
RE: FTE 61-79 - Bearings-all
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running
RE: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running
FTE 61-79 - breakin
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running
FTE 61-79 - Free Parts Giveaway
FTE 61-79 - Rebuilds
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tweety's defence
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tweety's defence
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tweety's defence
Re: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions-- Dana-60 rear brake job
FTE 61-79 - cab mount corrosion
FTE 61-79 - New to the list
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Centralia/Chehalis swap meet
Re: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions-- Dana-60 rear brake job
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running
FTE 61-79 - 289 or 292
Re: FTE 61-79 - 289 or 292
Re: FTE 61-79 - 289 or 292
FTE 61-79 - Bronco w/ 460 ForSale
Re: FTE 61-79 - Bronco w/ 460 ForSale
FTE 61-79 - Re:EFI and Dual tanks
FTE 61-79 - Clutch Peddle bump stop
Re: FTE 61-79 - Bronco w/ 460 ForSale

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 07:15:42 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Honing Cylinders

I'm not quite sure what you are refering to with the metal thing? You mean
teflon?

Any time you add chemicals to the engine you are looking for a temporary fix
and in the long run, early retirement. You may be able to get rings to seat
with chemicals but the engine won't last too long due to contamination and
bearing damage from same. Adding graphite or teflon simply fills up holes
including oil passages which eventually kill the engine.

There's only one right way to build a long lasting engine and we all know
what that is:

Pay attention to small details
keep it clean and,
Spend money
Spend money
Spend money
then keep good oil in it and keep the filters clean etc.

There simply is no substitute for proper building techniques and proper
maintenence but you have to start with a good block, crank heads and build
on them with care and quality. Azie obviously had two very well cared for
engines. The one I disassembled and scrapped had very noticeable ridges
which also indicates very serious wear but I have no idea how many miles it
had on it. The one in my truck was well maintained and had minimal wear but
had many miles on it.

BTW, in case anyone was wondering, 0.0005" wear is phenominal. After
honing, even leaving substantial witness marks, if you still have only this
much wear I would say you are living right :-) I would normally expect to
see at least 0.003-0.004" metal removal from stock specifications to clean
up a very good block which would leave you at the very extreme high limit
for cast pistons and if you use the original pistons which also have some
wear you are over the stock limit but may still be within range for a
decent, relatively long life rebuild. I would not expect to get 100k,
trouble free, miles out of such a rebuild but 60-70k is still worth all the
trouble IMHO :-) OTOH, if you add nothing more than new pistons to the mix
you could easily get the magic 100k out of it.

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions.......:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Gary;
> Your right, But I have a question regarding these
> chemicals, these days
> about power restoration. In theory you cannot add metal in a
> liquid state
> to a metal in a solid state and expect them to bind and hold,
> AKA restore
> power.Given the constant cycling process of our motors. I
> can't remember
> the name of the brand, but I think you understand what I'm
> talking about.
> When you have blow-by, and smoke signals its time to
> investigate rings
> valves and other things.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 12:29:30 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Henderson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions-- Dana-60 rear brake job

Tony:

> First off-- what is the size of the nut on the rear axle dana-60 that =

holds
> the wheelbearings in? ('76 F-250 4x4 31 spline rear) It looks to be =

about
> 2.5 inches. (can't get a nut off to find out to take to a place=20
which
> sells sockets)

The nut is 2.5".

> Third-- How tight do the bearing nuts go down on them?

The torque on the inner nut is 90# followed by backing it off 3/8=20
turn. The outer nut is then torqued to 100#. I just did this the=20
other day.


> Secondly-- When putting new bearings back in, is it ok to cover them=20
with
> wheel bearing grease until the gearlube can work its way out to them, =

or is
> it better to just dunk them in gearlube?

As for the grease, I did grease the bearings prior to installation as=20
per my Haynes manual. However, you should always take instructions=20
from the Haynes manual with a grain of salt and there is more than=20
likely a more knowledgable person on the list. The torque specs are=20
right, though. Good Luck!!

Dave H

- --=20
_
_| ~~. David Henderson
\, _} DHenders VT.Edu
\( Gig 'em Aggies! '93
Beat Southern Miss!!

Currently at:
Interdepartmental Genetics Program
2010 Litton Reaves Hall
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
Blacksburg, VA 24061
(540)231-4773
(540)231-5014
DHenders VT.Edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dasc.vt.edu/henderson/dhenderson.html



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 08:43:59 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Azie's comment

The only suggestion I can offer is to make sure you have flattened all the
bolt hole areas in the valve cover, check the valve cover for straigness and
flatness against a flat surface or at least a straight edge, scraped all
residue off both surfaces and use load spreader washers if you can find
them. Hate to say it but, chevy's used to have them on almost everything.
Don't recall seeing them on a ford though?

I have used RTV and brown aircraft sealer in those applications with
moderate success but always eventually wound up with leaks. I recently
began using fel-pro yellow gasket cement on such gaskets as pan and valve
covers. Too early to tell how it will hold up but one thing that happens to
me all the time is the gasket slips out of place as you try to install it
and you can't see it so it goes uncorrected. The cement prevents this from
happening until the gasket has had time to set up and fuse to the metal from
heat etc.. Unfortunately neither brown sealer nor RTV will hold a gasket in
place reliably during installation even when you let them setup and set up
time can be a real inconvenience as well. The gasket cement sets up very
quickly.

One of the reasons I'm not a true RTV believer is that you have to have the
surfaces so squeaky clean it's unreal if you want them to stick. Unless you
are working on a stand with a dry motor you will not be able to get the
conditions you need with RTV to be reliable most of the time. Brown
aircraft sealer absorbs oil and grease (cleaner is still better) since it
has a similar base and is not affected by them as much but it doesn't just
peel off either so pick your poison. This is still my prefered sealer for
close fitting, smooth surfaces like timing covers, thermostat housings and
bearing seals etc. because it's not very fussy but for big floppy gaskets
that won't stay put I really like the fel-pro stuff.

- --Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> leaking on the back corner. So this weekend I will replace
> that gasket.
> If anyone has suggestions to make sure it stops I am open. The gasket
> on it has only been on it for about 3 months and it didn't cure the
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 15:13:51 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Azie's comment

> bolt hole areas in the valve cover, check the valve cover for straigness and

Valve covers..

> I have used RTV and brown aircraft sealer in those applications with
> moderate success but always eventually wound up with leaks. I recently

I have used RTV too, and it did hold the (rubber) gasket on the cover..
well it shifted a little but I could still easily get the bolts on. It
never leaked again.

> began using fel-pro yellow gasket cement on such gaskets as pan and valve
> covers. Too early to tell how it will hold up but one thing that happens to
> me all the time is the gasket slips out of place as you try to install it

Ah yeah my local parts guy calls it the "gorilla snot", hahah.. I used it
for my oil pan, works good too.

> heat etc.. Unfortunately neither brown sealer nor RTV will hold a gasket in
> place reliably during installation even when you let them setup and set up

It should if you don't bump it too much.. of course that can be easier
said than done if you don't have a lift. Fortunately the bronco is pretty
roomy underneath

> > leaking on the back corner. So this weekend I will replace
> > that gasket.
> > If anyone has suggestions to make sure it stops I am open. The gasket
> > on it has only been on it for about 3 months and it didn't cure the

The most common mistake is to overtorque the bolts; especially coark
doesn't take much to seal up - or to ruin it. Most cheaper torque wrenches
(like mine) are terrible at low torque rates. You need either an expensive
one or a "feel"..

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 09:25:43 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions-- Dana-60 rear brake job

Gang, Gang, Gang! Remember that tapered bearings cannot be preloaded!
Spindles get hot from braking and bearings get hot from rolling around so
you have to allow room for some expansion. The instructions which say
torque, back off and torque the ouside nut don't get specific enough!

The idea is that this method will get you in the ball park, you still need
to ensure that the bearing has axial free play in the range of 0.000 to
0.010" which is, by shade tree methods, just a tad of movement when
everyting is torqued. It should be just barely perceptible but is should be
"perceptible". The initial torque is to seat the bearings and races to
ensure they are fully seated in the race bores and bearings are fully
engaging the spindle shoulders. The 3/8 or 1/4 reverse turn is to get you
in the ball park but IS NOT THE FINAL ADJUSTMENT! The variation in the
thread fit between the nuts and spindle is quite large so this adjustment
could actually allow you to preload the bearing enough to damage it in a
relatively few miles or leave it so loose that your disk brakes don't work
as well as they should. With drum brakes it's not so important and looser
is better than too tight up to a point. (read, less fussy)

Some front wheel drives and TTB's have different bearings with differnt
specs but free, taperd, timkin bearings should not be left "torqued" or
preloaded. The dana 60 rear is exactly the same configuration as the dana
44 front, fully floating, tapered bearings etc.. The 78 service manual
specifically lists the axial free play as 0.001-0.010". I typically allow
myself to go as low as zero but no more than that due to the disk brakes
which like tighter bearings.

A trick I recently learned when doing this adjustment in cold weather was to
leave the wheel installed so I could use it's leverage against the cold
grease to get a better feel for free play :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> The torque on the inner nut is 90# followed by backing it off 3/8
> turn. The outer nut is then torqued to 100#. I just did this the
> other day.

> from the Haynes manual with a grain of salt and there is more than
> likely a more knowledgable person on the list. The torque specs are
> right, though. Good Luck!!
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 09:29:23 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - The Grasshopper & The Ant

I put off checking me wheel bearings..........$20 bearing replacement
or....$0.50 repack job cost me $240 :-(

I keep meaning to replace the floor in my bronco so I don't have to keep
pushing the floor mat over the holes when it rains.......:-) Been meaning
to do that for two years now :-) Hope this make someone feel better :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> As I was putting the tools away, I couldn't help but
> wonder how many
> people on this list had been putting off a job that should be
> done before
> winter hits. C'mon now,... you remember what happened to the
> grasshopper,
> don't you?
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 09:36:18 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Diesel bolt pattern

The 5 speed you speak of is used on 460's as well so this may be true but
not sure. It's the ZF547, uses ATF and has an integral aluminum housing
like the C-6. The one I looked at looked for all the world like a lumpy C-6
with a stick on top :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Do someone know if the bellhousing bolt pattern of a Ford truck
> diesel engine is the same as a 460? Is so, does a 5-speed transmission
> from a diesel engine could be bolted on behing a 351M/400-429-460?
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 06:42:19 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running

Thanks for your message at 07:10 PM 9/22/99 -0700, Mike Pacheco. Your
message was:
>Well, just finished the exhaust on my 72' F-100, drove it for 20
>minutes, then parked it.... wow what a difference horsepower and noise
>make !!
>Had 2 flowmasters with 3" pipe setup...
>My 351C-2V with a Performer manifold and 500 Edelbrock carb wants to
>play..

I'll be watching...I've been considering the Performer and...? How much
$$$ are we talking?


Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 08:47:07 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running

> Well, just finished the exhaust on my 72' F-100, drove it for 20
> minutes, then parked it.... wow what a difference horsepower and noise
> make !!
> Had 2 flowmasters with 3" pipe setup...
> My 351C-2V with a Performer manifold and 500 Edelbrock carb wants to
> play..
> Tomorrow I change out the oil then give a days run on Friday.

Amazing what a little tweaking does huh ? :) I just put an off-road pipe
on my 'stang, it picked up an easy 10 more horses just by getting rid of 6
cats! I imagine your C is breathing quite a bit easier now ... are you
running headers of any sort ?

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 09:03:43 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - lights, the continuing saga

Well, gang, I've been working on my tail...lights some more. Another of the
bulb holders had a bad ground. I believe that I have discovered how to fix
them permanently. For some reason, the place where the wire is crimped to
the metal ground strip breaks. In my experience, it has not been from
corrosion, but I can't tell what the cause is. I think it has something to
do with the stress placed on the strip and it is not flexible enough to
prevent breakage. On to the fix.

On the side of the holder where the ground strip is, there is a relatively
flat area on the side of the holder that runs a little over halfway up from
the wire end. About an eighth of an inch from where the flat area ends in
the middle of the holder, drill a 3/16 hole with a variable speed drill
running at very low rpm. This should put you right on top of the connection.
Remove the gasket from the holder. You can now see a cavity running down by
the ground strip. Run a piece of 14 or 16 gauge automotive wire down this
cavity as far as it will go. You should be able to see the other end in the
hole you drilled. Measure the length of wire by eye so that you have enough
sticking out the top to solder to the grounding strip. Cut and strip both
ends of the wire, reinsert it, then solder both ends in place. Replace the
gasket. Seal the hole you drilled with household silicone sealer. It's
fixed.

This doesn't take as long as it sounds. I have done it on the white holders
and the black holders. I know, you can buy new ones at the Help section of
your local parts house, but where's the fun in that?

I also modified my lower separator that prevents white light from showing
through the backup lense. I wire brushed the reflectors (the ones I used for
separators) so that light could pass through them. The highway triangles I
cannabilized had soft plastic frames for the reflectors. I cut a length that
would fit inside, then cut out a square in the middle. This stuff was
flexible enough to go in through the backup light hole. I positioned it
where it needed to be then slid the reflector (now lense) inserts in. I
silicone sealed the cracks around the slit for the separator. I now have
lots of bright tail lights and brake lights. The next step is run the feed
from the brake light switch and separate the circuits.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:09:44 -0400
From: Marvin & Michelle Meyer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings- Dana 60

On the 3/4 & 1 tons, I have played with, I have noticed the infamous
chisel marks on the nuts and how loose the nuts are. At 60-MPH the
peripheral speed of the wheel is fast and the vibrations are severe on the
2.25" tapered rollers.
When tightening up the wheel with the proper 2-9/16" socket, torque to 60
ft/lbs. then back off 1/4 turn. When installing the second lock nut torque
this one around 75 ft/lbs.
By the initial setting you are, forcing the rollers to seat themselves in
the raceway, and backing off 3/8 -1/4 of a turn ensures the proper
clearance
for heat expansion.
These are full floating hubs, but the grease is there for immediate
Protection at low speed and the axle lube is there for high-speed
protection.
Bearings tell a story, of how well things are going. Look at the rollers
for discoloration, pitting. Look at the inner/outer ring race way for the
same
stuff.
By using a chisel, the chips of steel are laying in the hub core, and in
due time, it will introduce itself to the rollers.
Up here in Canada commercial vehicles have to go through an annual safety
inspection and braking systems are scrutinized. I just rebuilt a Dana 70
that a Class-A mechanic shop was servicing most of it's life, and the
chip's
were in.........
A copy of my first posting to the group back in June/July of this year,
Hope it helps.....;~)

Marvin
meyer stratford.webgate.net


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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 06:34:03 -0800
From: "4Travis"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bulb Sockets

Hi, I just got done completly rewiring my 74 F250 4wd I found a source for
new turn signal/ brake/ side marker lights but I can't find new light bulb
sockets to fit them, any one know of a source for these? The local ford
dealer claims they don't carry them anymore. I've been reading this chat
for weeks but just did figure out how to post a message duh!



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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 09:37:55 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings- Dana 60

Last night I drove all over town (St. Paul) to find 'locking nuts' for my
newly acquired Dana 70. The previous 'fix' had the infamous chisel hacks,
and I added a couple of my own, oops. But, found the nuts at NAPA for 15
bucks a piece. Found the socket too for 15 bucks, no more hacks. My question
though, is that they are locking nuts with the outer nylon normally found in
smaller nuts. There was not an outer nut to reinforce that. Only there is a
small 'key' that cuts into the plastic via the spindle keyway. This is all
that holds the 35 spline shafts in place?

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 07:33:33 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions-- Dana-60 rear brake job

>First off-- what is the size of the nut on the rear axle dana-60 that >holds the wheelbearings in? ('76 F-250 4x4 31 spline rear)

My 76 is 2 9/16"

>When putting new bearings back in, is it ok to cover them with
>wheel bearing grease until the gearlube can work its way out to them,

Factory manual says to pack them w/wheelbearing grease

>How tight do the bearing nuts go down on them?
Hub should have .001" endplay.
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 09:50:48 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Bulb Sockets

> Hi, I just got done completly rewiring my 74 F250 4wd I found a
> source for
> new turn signal/ brake/ side marker lights but I can't find new
> light bulb
> sockets to fit them, any one know of a source for these?

Just go to the local parts store, they should carry them ... Napa, Jocko's
(local one), Big A ... they should all have them ...

> I've been reading this chat
> for weeks but just did figure out how to post a message duh!


Well welcome to the list :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 11:41:03 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings- Dana 60

Remember, the washer is actually isolating the nut from the rotating parts
so there is not really any imputus on the nut to turn it. The key only has
to prevent the nut from vibrating loose. My 73 had a metal tab washer on it
that bent up against the sides of the nut. These lock nuts generally are
punched at the top with a punch to press the metal of the nut into the
keyway and must be replaced each time you use them. Not sure exactly what
you have.

The shaft itself should be contained by the hub "cap" that you had to remove
to get to the bearings and perhaps an insert of some kind with splines to
fit the hub? The nut only controls the hub and bearings and the shaft is
free to "float" through the hollow spindle.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> though, is that they are locking nuts with the outer nylon
> normally found in
> smaller nuts. There was not an outer nut to reinforce that.
> Only there is a
> small 'key' that cuts into the plastic via the spindle
> keyway. This is all
> that holds the 35 spline shafts in place?
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:57:17 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings- Dana 60

Hmmm, This is my first 70 so I'll have to look at it again. But I recall
that the shaft is connected to the outer cap you mentioned...or stuck to it
somehow. I pulled the cap off and the axle came with it. And have that
metal tab system you mentioned, not a key.

-----Original Message-----
From: Peters, Gary (G.R.) [mailto:gpeters3 visteon.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 1999 10:41 AM
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings- Dana 60

Remember, the washer is actually isolating the nut from the
rotating parts
so there is not really any imputus on the nut to turn it.
The key only has
to prevent the nut from vibrating loose. My 73 had a metal
tab washer on it
that bent up against the sides of the nut. These lock nuts
generally are
punched at the top with a punch to press the metal of the
nut into the
keyway and must be replaced each time you use them. Not
sure exactly what
you have.

The shaft itself should be contained by the hub "cap" that
you had to remove
to get to the bearings and perhaps an insert of some kind
with splines to
fit the hub? The nut only controls the hub and bearings and
the shaft is
free to "float" through the hollow spindle.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
--

> though, is that they are locking nuts with the outer nylon

> normally found in
> smaller nuts. There was not an outer nut to reinforce
that.
> Only there is a
> small 'key' that cuts into the plastic via the spindle
> keyway. This is all
> that holds the 35 spline shafts in place?
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 11:49:58 -0400
From: Marvin & Michelle Meyer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours

So they have multiple log books per driver? Hmm.. and then they show
whichever one applies? Or do they have "virtual" drivers? ;-)

I've never ran this way, but it works out that you go back to where you
started and from that point on X number of hours later you make fake stops,
sleeps etc. Any truck drivers out there?
Marvin
meyer stratford.webgate.net




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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 11:30:54 -0400
From: Marvin & Michelle Meyer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bearings-all

The 3/8 or 1/4 reverse turn is to get you in the ball park but IS NOT THE
FINAL ADJUSTMENT! The variation in the thread fit between the nuts and
spindle is quite large so this adjustment could actually allow you to
preload the bearing enough to damage it.
OK, I'll bite.
This depends on the pitch of the thread and condition of the thread. This
is a starting point, and let's face it not everyone is going to get the
dial indicator out to verify preload adjustment. Your axial and radial play
is with in tolerance if you go by the manual, as long as you remember to
back off the nut. By pre-load and backing-off the bearings you are setting
the Thermal expansion of the bearing. Bearing Steel expands at a rate of
.00000063" per inch (63 millionths)per degree Fahrenheit. So under a
light/heavy load the bearing can grow and still not lock up. Lubricity of
the bearing is not compromised either.
There are different classifications of bearings, each class of bearing has
clearances designed into it. If your kids have these roller blades, they
are all going for these ABEC 5 bearings, I have no idea what sales pitch
the guy is try to give my kid but I started a quick class in bearing
terminology. There is no such a class as ABEC 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. The proper
class is C1, C2, C3, and others. The C, I forget what it stands for and
I'm not going to guess until I refresh my mentalness.
Our Aircraft/Aerospace Division just started a whole new highly profitable
business, that us truck/car owners have been doing for years. Cleaning,
Inspecting, Re-installing the same bearing that came out of our
axle/spindle. They are making big $$'s. NASA, reuses our space shuttle main
engine bearings after we convinced them to examine our reconditioning
Facilities. Which BTW is just an old school portable parked out side the
factory that we lease.
Hook line and ......
Sincerely,

Marvin
meyer stratford.webgate.net


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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 12:21:00 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours

Don't get caught with both books in the truck :-) I know a guy who did, it
wasn't a pretty sight :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I've never ran this way, but it works out that you go back to
> where you
> started and from that point on X number of hours later you
> make fake stops,
> sleeps etc. Any truck drivers out there?
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 12:19:15 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings- Dana 60

Thank you for reminding me! I remember now! Yes the cap and shaft are one
on the rear dana 60 and very heavy as I recall. I had mine apart many times
but years ago, many years ago :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> that the shaft is connected to the outer cap you
> mentioned...or stuck to it
> somehow. I pulled the cap off and the axle came with it. And
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 13:07:23 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Bearings-all

Ok, so I'm being anal :-) I just melted the hub, bearings, spindle and most
of the internal parts in my bronco and have never lost a single spindle
bearing in my life! I've always maintained some perceptible free play in
tapered spindle bearings of every kind with nary a bauble until that deal
:-(

It now has new bearings and rotors and pads and warn premium hubs on both
sides and new spindle and outer hub on the passenger side and all new seals
with good old Kendal super blue for kicks :-) I will be inspecting and
repacking my front end every fall and spring from now on :-) The dollar
sign should be a pair of bare buns for "hindsight" since that's where I
usually run into it most often :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> The 3/8 or 1/4 reverse turn is to get you in the ball park
> but IS NOT THE
> FINAL ADJUSTMENT! The variation in the thread fit between
> the nuts and
> spindle is quite large so this adjustment could actually allow you to
> preload the bearing enough to damage it.

> OK, I'll bite.
> This depends on the pitch of the thread and condition of the
> thread. This
> is a starting point, and let's face it not everyone is going
> to get the
> dial indicator out to verify preload adjustment.
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 13:10:21 EDT
From: SevnD2 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running

That really sounds like a nice setup you have there ! I am jealous !
I am curious to see the gas mileage and performance you get with that 351C
2V . Also what cam and other special attention have you given your cleveland
such as heads and types of pistons ? I have one I am currently building that
I may put in a 76 F100 . I was discouraged from using it in a truck because I
have been told it wouldn't do very well in a truck , but then I wonder why
they used a 302 with the exact same stroke as a cleveland . I bring that
point up because I have been told many times you need a longer stroke engine
in a truck to do very well at low end torque . I know from previous
experience that a 302 doesn't produce any more torque at low RPM,s than a
cleveland does . Probably less , unless there are something I am not aware of
in a 302 that was installed in a truck from the factory . Anyone know of any
differences in the 302 for cars vs trucks in the same years of production ?
Also HP and torque data for the 351C and the 302 at comparable RPM 's .
Again , I am jealous and would really like to try this setup in a truck !
Rollie H. Hunt
King , N.C.
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 14:24:16 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running

The 351c is much better in a truck than a 302. 302's typically lack power
in a truck application, they have all been dogs in my experience :-) You
can make them run but they are simply not made to push a 5000 pound chunk of
iron around. Essentially regardless of stroke, more cubes is more low end
power. Theoretically, stroke is important but in practical usage more cubes
is more important. Now if you can have more cubes AND more stroke, well,
now we have the 400, 335 series, king of bottom end :-) (ask Dave :-))

Even though the 400 has a perfect square bore at 4.00 x 4.00" which works
out to .120" more stroke, the 460 is still much stronger due to it's cube
advantage again. What stroke does is push the power curve down the rpm band
due to piston speed. In other words, it limits the upper rpm limit to
maintain reasonable piston speed but also adds measurable mechanical
advantage at the flywheel to give more torque per rpm given the same swept
volume, up to a point. At some point frinction enters the picture :-) Bore
OTOH adds torque across the power band, where ever it happens to be but does
not impact rpm limits until you start considering weight.

The 351c, 2v is roughly equivelant to the 351W or 351M in torque potential
and basic performance but since it has a lighter crank will rev a tad
quicker typically. They all have an under square 3.5" stroke and 4" bore.
The differences are in the intake, heads, crank weight and material etc..

The 302 isn't even in the same association, much less ball park :-) BTW, it
is considerably under square at 3.00 stroke and 4.00 bore :-) High revs,
lots of HP but zero torque.....well, ok less torque :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I may put in a 76 F100 . I was discouraged from using it in a
> truck because I
> have been told it wouldn't do very well in a truck , but then
> I wonder why
> they used a 302 with the exact same stroke as a cleveland . I
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 15:54:54 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - breakin

Darrell writes: >>but Its worked for us, so why change it?

My motto is not to argue with someon elses' success.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 14:07:25 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running

> The 351c is much better in a truck than a 302. 302's typically lack power
> in a truck application, they have all been dogs in my experience
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
............

After driving a friends 92 F150 with a 302, I swore I'd never own a
truck with that weak of an engine. The acceleration was very disappointing
on the freeway onramp without a load. I don't mean to offend the owners of
this list who have 302's in there trucks, I'm just saying that I believe a
truck should have a more powerful engine.

It seems that a truck is more useful if it has a large motor for
acceleration and power disc brakes for deceleration, full floating rear
axles, and a large fuel capacity.


Danger
danger csolutions.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth


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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 13:19:29 -0700
From: Marv Miller
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Free Parts Giveaway

Chris Samuel Wrote:

Last time that I did this; Bas drove from south of San Francisco to pick up
a Bronco Tire Carrier, I'm guessing that he'll hold the longest distance
traveled for cheap parts for a long while!

He SURE would if he did it today!

- --
Marv Miller mailto:ae722 lafn.org
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 15:49:52 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rebuilds

Bas writes: >>In that timeframe, how often did you have to take them apart? Is
this the
first time? What did you do to it, new pistons? New bearings?

Neither of them had ever been apart and were still running when I got them. I
(and my son) wanted a reliable ride, so we thought while we had them out, why
not go through them completely and make sure everything was up to standard.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 21:28:01 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running

In a message dated 9/23/99 1:14:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
danger csolutions.net writes:


acceleration and power disc brakes for deceleration, full floating rear
axles, and a large fuel capacity.
>>

Lets see, 460, Camper special brakes, Dana 70 and dual tanks. Yup, Tweety
fits the description.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 18:35:57 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running

Let's not forget that extra differential in the front, eh?

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, September 23, 1999 6:29 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running


>In a message dated 9/23/99 1:14:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>danger csolutions.net writes:
>
>
> acceleration and power disc brakes for deceleration, full floating rear
> axles, and a large fuel capacity.
> >>
.



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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 21:49:04 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tweety's defence

In a message dated 9/23/99 6:36:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time,=20
bbeyer pacifier.com writes:

>

Hey now, your gonna get Tweety mad! Besides, with the kind of wheelin I do,=20
that extra diff is only something to reinforce the hell out of, just so it=20
only breaks when Im REALLY far from a road. Not even a Dana 60 front would=20
last very long with the abuse I give. Dont forget my current record is 8 ft=20
up. Lisa was there. Remember that Spine tingling crunch as the front bumpe=
r=20
tossed those rocks over the hood? Came down full force on the front end. =20
Thats 5100 lbs, at 55 mph, with the 8 ft drop added in equals SERIOUS force. =20
Woulda blown a 60 to slivers, but that ole Twin I beam still goes straight=20
down the road. :-=DE

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 19:14:22 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tweety's defence

Now hold on I wasn't trying to dis Tweety...OK maybe a little, but as much
as I like Ford trucks my vehicle of choice for leaving mother earth has a
minimum compliment of wings and several large jet engines developing more
thrust than any big block that ever came from Henry's boys. I simply don't
have the desire to launch my truck through the air.

When it comes to altitude I concentrate on getting up in the air while
keeping all 4 tires as close to the ground as possible. If you can see the
greasy side of my truck while you're standing up I'm either in deep sh*t or
I've gone waaay overboard with the lift kit. I just love 4wd plain and
simple. All four tires spinnin', clawin' over rocks & mud, out in the
boondocks way past where the posers go in their wannabe 4X4 sport utes, axle
deep in the snow with the motor screaming tryin' to get traction and
throwin' who knows what who knows where. Oh yeah...let's not forget to tread
lightly out there!

End of rant...

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, September 23, 1999 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tweety's defence


>In a message dated 9/23/99 6:36:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>bbeyer pacifier.com writes:
>
>>
>
>Hey now, your gonna get Tweety mad! Besides, with the kind of wheelin I
do,
>that extra diff is only something to reinforce the hell out of, just so it
>only breaks when Im REALLY far from a road. Not even a Dana 60 front would
>last very long with the abuse I give. Dont forget my current record is 8
ft
>up. Lisa was there. Remember that Spine tingling crunch as the front
bumper
>tossed those rocks over the hood? Came down full force on the front end.
>Thats 5100 lbs, at 55 mph, with the 8 ft drop added in equals SERIOUS
force.
>Woulda blown a 60 to slivers, but that ole Twin I beam still goes straight
>down the road. :-



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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 22:17:25 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tweety's defence

In a message dated 9/23/99 7:15:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bbeyer pacifier.com writes:


as I like Ford trucks my vehicle of choice for leaving mother earth has a
minimum compliment of wings and several large jet engines developing more
thrust than any big block that ever came from Henry's boys. I simply don't
have the desire to launch my truck through the air.

When it comes to altitude I concentrate on getting up in the air while
keeping all 4 tires as close to the ground as possible. If you can see the
greasy side of my truck while you're standing up I'm either in deep sh*t or
I've gone waaay overboard with the lift kit. I just love 4wd plain and
simple. All four tires spinnin', clawin' over rocks & mud, out in the
boondocks way past where the posers go in their wannabe 4X4 sport utes, axle
deep in the snow with the motor screaming tryin' to get traction and
throwin' who knows what who knows where. Oh yeah...let's not forget to tread
lightly out there!

End of rant...

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" >>


Apollogy accepted.

Darrell & Tweety
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 19:21:34 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions-- Dana-60 rear brake job

David Henderson wrote:
>
> Tony "the Kid" asked:
>
> > First off-- what is the size of the nut on the rear axle dana-60
> > that holds the wheelbearings in? ('76 F-250 4x4 31 spline rear)
> > It looks to be about 2.5 inches.
>
> The nut is 2.5".

Whoops. This has been corrected elsewhere, but just in case:
It's a 2-9/16", six-point round corner.

OTC stock number is 1928, available from NAPA amongst others.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 19:36:09 MST
From: "doug jackson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cab mount corrosion

a freind has 6 or 8 ford pickups 1961-63 none are restored but are
in fair condition. thay all seem to have a similer problem with
corrosion on the floor above and including the front cab mounts.
is their any repair componets for this problem.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 20:03:57 -0700
From: "Cliff"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New to the list

Hello all,


The name here is Cliff. I bought a 72 F-250 4x2 w/360-2V and C6 tranny. The
odometer says it only has 55103 miles right now. I don';t know if those are
the true miles. I replaced the intake manifold gaskets and it didn't look
like only 55K to me. But the more I read on this list, I'm not so sure it
isn't true?

Anyway I have a couple of questions. First the brake warning light stays on
all the time. I know that the differential valve is where the light is
connected. Are these valves still available? Or can I clean it up with some
brake clean and free that thing up. I've tried everything the books say to
get it to turn off, with no luck.

Second question. The power steering gearbox is leaking at the top seal near
the flex coupling. I have already bought the kit with all the seals and
O-rings. Is it a difficult task to put this kit in? Or should I just look at
replacing the leaking seal at the top only? I'm not a mechanic, but I do
understand the workings of the thing from the pictures and text I've been
able to get my hands on. Is it worth putting the whole kit in, and not have
to do this again a little later? Am I going to have parts jumping out and I
won't have a clue as to where they go? I've never done this before, and I
can't afford to let someone else do it, or can I afford to buy a rebuilt
one.

I have a tip. You can take a cheap toggle switch and wire it into the
battery side of the coil, then place the toggle switch under the dash away
from the ignition switch. When the switch is off, the truck won't start no
matter how long they try. They'll run your battery down before the get it
started. You can even wire it up backwards so that the switch is in the on
position, and the thief may think it has nothing to do with anything because
it's ON anyway.

Thanks,
Cliff

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 23:07:38 EDT
From: SevnD2 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running

Whoops ! I wrote that the 302 and 351 have the same stroke . But meant to
write that the cleveland has a longer ( 3.5 ) stroke than the 302 which makes
it a better low torque engine than the 302 !
R. H. Hunt
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 20:09:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: canzus seanet.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running

At 02:07 PM 23:9:99 -0700, Danger wrote:
>> The 351c is much better in a truck than a 302. 302's typically lack power
>> in a truck application, they have all been dogs in my experience
>> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
>> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
>............
>
> After driving a friends 92 F150 with a 302, I swore I'd never own a
>truck with that weak of an engine. The acceleration was very disappointing
>on the freeway onramp without a load. I don't mean to offend the owners of
>this list who have 302's in there trucks, I'm just saying that I believe a
>truck should have a more powerful engine.
>

I wasn't going to say anything on this thread BUT
Gearing is very important in how an engine feels torque wise, and
how it performs acceleration wise. My late great '57 had a verily
modfied 289, ant the gearing was correct for the application. If you
are having a problem towing heavy loads, try changing the gears
before changing engine.

Steve & the Rockette
63 F100
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600, soon to be a 302
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
97 Contour, Mine

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 20:09:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: canzus seanet.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Centralia/Chehalis swap meet

At 05:45 PM 22:9:99 -0700, Jacques and Barbara DeKalb wrote:
>Is anyone on the list planning to attend the Centralia/Chehalis, WA, swap
>meet this weekend? We are going and would enjoy meeting any FTE members
>there on Saturday. E-mail me privately and maybe we can set up a meeting.
>Otherwise, I'll wear my FTE t-shirt and hope you introduce yourself!

I'd love to meet you, and any others that are going... But I have another
major conveyor project at work, and the weekend is the only time it can
be done. There is a decent swap meet happening mid October at the
Monroe fairgrounds. Not as good as the Portland OR swap, but acceptable
for Semi Locals, More collectable trinkets than hard parts, but at the last
meet I did find a dual 4V intake for a 292/312.

Enjoy the weekend....Some of us will be working....


Steve & the Rockette
63 F100
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600, soon to be a 302
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
97 Contour, Mine

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 23:10:40 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions-- Dana-60 rear brake job

Thanks Pat-- and to all others who replied with information!

I ordered my NAPA socket today-- should be here in the morning... I'll be
darned if those things aren't hard to find in stock, let alone with tool
carriers!

Thanks guys--

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony


Pat Brown wrote:

> David Henderson wrote:
> >
> > Tony "the Kid" asked:
> >
> > > First off-- what is the size of the nut on the rear axle dana-60
> > > that holds the wheelbearings in? ('76 F-250 4x4 31 spline rear)
> > > It looks to be about 2.5 inches.
> >
> > The nut is 2.5".
>
> Whoops. This has been corrected elsewhere, but just in case:
> It's a 2-9/16", six-point round corner.
>
> OTC stock number is 1928, available from NAPA amongst others.
> --
> Pat Brown
> Sebastopol, California

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 20:16:26 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running

Thanks for your message at 08:09 PM 9/23/99 -0700, canzus seanet.com. Your
message was:
>At 02:07 PM 23:9:99 -0700, Danger wrote:
> I wasn't going to say anything on this thread BUT
>Gearing is very important in how an engine feels torque wise, and
>how it performs acceleration wise. My late great '57 had a verily
>modfied 289, ant the gearing was correct for the application. If you
>are having a problem towing heavy loads, try changing the gears
>before changing engine.

Very true. I had a '62 F100 with a 302 and a 4.11 rear end and it had
plenty of "get-up-and-go." It wasn't as good as my Cleveland, but close...


Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 23:05:13 -0400
From: "Jim and Liisa Tino"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 289 or 292

Hi all! I'm new to the list, and don't understand half of
what is said, but I like it, anyways!
I have a 64 F100 with a small V8. It's either a 289 or a
292 - apparently, Ford put both engines in the 64 F100. My
question is this: is there any difference between the 289
and the 292 (besides the 3 cubes, I mean!) I can't imagine
that there would be much difference. If there is any
difference, how can you tell them apart? Is there anyone
out there who could give me a little history on that
engine - when and why it was used, obvious
benefits/problems, etc.? One obvious benefit of MY engine
is that it is still running! :)
Also, is there anyone else out there who has a 64 F100?
Just curious! Thanks!

Jim Tino
64 F100
Venezuela

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 23:27:51 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 289 or 292

yup, a 292 will have the dist in back, a 289 is up front

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 23:12:52 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 289 or 292

Jim, a 292 has two studs and nuts on top of the valve covers holding
them down. A 289 has five around the edges, I think.

Jason

Jim and Liisa Tino wrote:

> I have a 64 F100 with a small V8. It's either a 289 or a
> 292 - apparently, Ford put both engines in the 64 F100. My
> question is this: is there any difference between the 289
> and the 292 (besides the 3 cubes, I mean!)

>
> Jim Tino
> 64 F100
> Venezuela
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 00:42:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: crewcab altavista.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bronco w/ 460 ForSale

Found these in the local Grass Valley newspaper 4WD Section:

79 Ford Bronco, Rare factory 460, AT, many extras,
very good condition, $3500 firm
530-265-8682 or 530-274-1112

Another one to tease you with from the same source:

74 F250 4WD pickup A/T Clean Needs transmission
$1500 obo 530-274-1112

Hey, I just realized it's the same phone number!

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab

- ----------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 21:17:29 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bronco w/ 460 ForSale

welllllllll, since there is no such thing as a factory bronco with a 460,
I'll take the rest of the ad with a grain of salt.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
- -----Original Message-----
From: crewcab altavista.net
To: Truck List
Date: Thursday, September 23, 1999 8:44 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bronco w/ 460 ForSale


>Found these in the local Grass Valley newspaper 4WD Section:
>
>79 Ford Bronco, Rare factory 460, AT, many extras,
>very good condition, $3500 firm
>530-265-8682 or 530-274-1112
>
>Another one to tease you with from the same source:
>
>74 F250 4WD pickup A/T Clean Needs transmission
>$1500 obo 530-274-1112
>
>Hey, I just realized it's the same phone number!
>
>Jeff
>'64 F100 CrewCab
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 22:45:07 PDT
From: "Art Verling"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:EFI and Dual tanks

I had a friend that added an EFI to a 78 F100. He ran the return line into....


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