From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #341
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61-79-list-digest Thursday, September 23 1999 Volume 03 : Number 341



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - 9 Inch Rear End Vent
RE: FTE 61-79 - Gary - engine choices
FTE 61-79 - Dual Batteries
RE: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Break in
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overbore
RE: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours
FTE 61-79 - **Help with Ford 300 I-6 FI**
Re: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours
Re: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Break in
RE: FTE 61-79 - **Help with Ford 300 I-6 FI**
FTE 61-79 - FE intakes
FTE 61-79 - Re: 9 Inch Rear End Vent
Re: FTE 61-79 - 9 Inch Rear End Vent
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re-built & Machining
FTE 61-79 - Hey everybody!
RE: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Break in
RE: FTE 61-79 - cool Item on Ebay, cheap too
RE: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
RE: FTE 61-79 - Tranny noise
RE: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
Re: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Break in
RE: FTE 61-79 - pressure switch
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Armor all removal
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III
Re: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III
FTE 61-79 - EFI and Dual tanks
Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI and Dual tanks
RE: FTE 61-79 - EFI and Dual tanks
Re: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Break in
FTE 61-79 - No Engine Wear
Re: FTE 61-79 - No Engine Wear
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hey everybody!
RE: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours
Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI and Dual tanks
Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI and Dual tanks
FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions-- Dana-60 rear brake job
FTE 61-79 - Re: Centralia/Chehalis swap meet
FTE 61-79 - pressure switch
FTE 61-79 - Diesel bolt pattern
FTE 61-79 - Over Load Springs.
FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running
FTE 61-79 - driving many hours
FTE 61-79 - Azie's comment
RE: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours
Re: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours
Re: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions-- Dana-60 rear brake job
FTE 61-79 - The Grasshopper & The Ant
Re: FTE 61-79 - The Grasshopper & The Ant

=======================================================================

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 06:18:49 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 9 Inch Rear End Vent

Ford 9" uses the rear brake junction bolt for the breather. The bolt is
hollow and goes directly into the housing. If you remove the bolt there
should be a hole right into the gear box of the diff. All you need to do
then is clean out the bolt center hole. I didn't like the setup on my dana
so used the same setup on the front end which allowed a much larger vent
hole to the gear box. The original is a small, easily blocked slit under
the bearing race in the axle tube. I drilled the junction bolt hole all the
way through and tapped it for the hollow bolt used on the 9" rear and used
the original front junction as I recall. The location of the original
junction is problematic due to suspension clearances which is probably why
ford didn't use that setup in the first place but they could have found a
better way than what they did. In my case it clears the frame but not by
very much so I'm happy with it :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Any advice on how to clean the vent out without getting
> gunkies into the axle?
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 07:09:49 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Gary - engine choices

I'm the wrong person to ask that question :-( I've made two attempts at
happiness and both have failed miserably so I have a rather warped view of
marriage in this system. After armagedon I'll wait for God to give me one I
can live with. I presume his judgement will be better than mine :-) King
Solomon said there were no good women left in his day, roughly 4000 years
ago so where are we now? I don't take that to be literal and am not saying
there are no good women today but it is certainly hard to be sure you have
made the correct choice for yourself. I firmly believe there are many more
than just one good choice for each person on the earth but that still leaves
you with billions of wrong choices you could make :-( Because of all the
pressures on people today, people change in a relationship and sometimes for
the worse :-( One of life's biggest challenges is knowing yourself well
enough to know what you need and want. If you can solve that riddle you are
at least half way there :-) I'm 53 now and just beginning to understand
what I want and who I am. How can any woman possibly be able to do it in
just a few months of dating or even years and visa/versa.

If you want to be sure, try this: Spend the next year with your prospective
mate, sharing the same kitchen, doing the laundry, paying the bills,
shopping, mowing the lawn, working on your truck, going to church but do not
have any sex and do not expose yourselves to each other or have any intimacy
not acceptable in polite, public society. If you are still a team at the
end of that year you have a very good chance at survival and perhaps even
happiness.

BOY! I bet no one will ever ask that question again :-)

My thought on the 428 was to get one in decent shape and just run it for a
while. While you enjoy the new engine you have time to decide how to
approach the old one, meanwhile you have a 428 added to your stable :-)

I painted the axle with imron and even with the carbon mask I could smell
the paint. Being an old army reject I know how to clear and seal a mask so
it was getting past the carbon a little bit. Next time I do imron I will
splurge for a decent mask instead of the throw away kind :-) It seems to be
holding up well except where bolts and plugs cut the paint. There's a
little chipping in those areas but when I wipe it off it still looks pretty
good :-)

I spent one whole Christmas vacation out in the shop disassembling and
cleaning that thing and then reinstalling the diff gears, bearings etc.,
rebuilding the axles and replacing the ball joints and seals. As it turns
out I should have replaced the bearings too :-( Did that later when one of
the wheels fell off (not quite but close :-)). BTW, after the wheel falls
off the $20 bearing replacement cost soars to about $240/ea wheel so what
will we do next time?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Not married yet, but this summer I'll be singing a
> different story. Is
> this my nightmare waiting to happen? 8^)

> engine that was a 390 block with the 428 crank. If I can't
> get a complete
> 428 but can get a 428 crank then this sounds like a good
> idea.rent and it keeps getting bigger. Thanks again.
>
> Oh, did you paint the front axle on your Bronco or powdercoat
> it? Either
> way how has it held up?
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 07:09:14 -0400
From: "John & Ann Marie"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dual Batteries

I installed dual batteries in my '77 F150 4X4 using marine battery boxes
mounted ahead of the wheel wells and heavy cable to the isolator and acc's.
This allowed me to move all the electric's to the firewall and clean off the
fenderwells. In addition the second battery feeds the relays for the new
halogen headlights running 55/100 watt bulbs. There's lots of light and if
they stay on by mistake the primary battery will start the truck.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 07:33:51 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Break in

I would not use non-detergent oil for break in, just use the oil you plan to
use in it and don't start out with 20w40 or 20w50 because it's a big motor,
use 5w30 or 10w30, good oil, not cheap stuff and synthetic is best if you
live in a cold climate due to better flow characteristics. Change it after
about 1500 miles the first time and then from 3k to 5k depending on
conditions and usage.

Run it as you normally would except for WOT. Avoid WOT for the first 1000
miles but don't baby it and don't be affraid to get up to speed right away.
The idea is to not over power the rings untill they have seated so speed
isn't a factor but pressure is (IMHO :-))

Shade trees used to tell other shade trees to torque while hot but I believe
that has been changed by the pros to cold. Retorque yes because the heating
up of the parts will cause them to shift slightly and find their natural
positions so some loosening is likely where angled parts meet such as intake
manifolds etc..

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I just finished rebuilding a 460 for my '71 F350. Can
> anyone give me some
> break in advise? When do I change the oil and do I put in more
> non-detergent oil and when do I use detergent oil? Do I need

> any bolts? When I re-torque the intake bolts after running
> the engine to
> operating temperture do I let the engine cool before
> re-torquing or do it


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 14:23:57 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overbore

> I've got two 460's (pre '72) that have just been gone thru and put back
> together. Neither of them were overbored, and both have in excess of 250,000
> miles on them. There was less than .0005" out of round and wear. Neither of
> them exhibit any kind of piston slap. I even used the original cam and lifters
> in both. No apparent wear on either set.

In that timeframe, how often did you have to take them apart? Is this the
first time? What did you do to it, new pistons? New bearings?

My uncle had a 400 that he used for about 400k km, also about 250k miles,
but then a piston broke and damaged the block ;-( .. it actually still ran
reasonable and he did not notice because he had the radio on. Only the
next morning he heard it rattling, and he knew it was too late so he drove
it like that for another couple of weeks (he needs it for his work) and
then put in another motor.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 08:24:17 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours

I've stayed up for 42 hrs with no sleep but don't recommend it :-) I
certainly could not drive a snow plow during that time. I did manage to
drive myself to work two days and stay out of the boss's way on the second
day since I was essentially useless, got back home somehow, drank another
half case of beer and crashed for 14 hrs without moving when I finally got
home that night. This was the day my first wife left to live with a 15 year
old boy and I litterally could not get drunk! Very tired, a little tipsy
but not even close to drunk after 1.5 cases of beer in less than two days.
My previous record was about 6 before I either was wasted or sick.

I've driven at near 100 mph for 17 hours many times but in every case I was
slapping myself very hard in the face to stay awake, drinking coffee and
taking no doze :-) Now, as an old man, I fall asleep on the way home from
work :-)

330 is a really cool version of the truck FE engine. I had one in a 62
f-600 cab over stake truck. I still dream of driving that truck! :-) It
would pull hard in 5th gear from a near stop at a rail road track if I
wanted to be lazy :-) If I live long enough I'll have another one but 4wd
this time :-) Love that cab over design :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> >I have worked 27 hours straight plowing snow myself.It was
> in a 75 f-600
>
> Hm really, after 16 hours of straight driving I'm dead meat,
>
> Never heard of a 330 .. guess it's a heavy duty engine?

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 06:05:33 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - **Help with Ford 300 I-6 FI**

>>>>. Winter startup/pre-full-operating-temperature drivability - it has a
manual choke installed by previous owner - he told me that they don't make
the proper thermostatic coils for this particular carb anymore.


I had an '85 f-150 with the same engine, no emissions, same carb, same
manual choke installed by the previous owner (probably a different PO :-)
). I put on a rebuilt carb from the parts store, total cost was under
$60 cdn.(6 years ago) and it took about an hour to change it.
The truck ran great till i sold it this spring. My experience with ford EFI
(86 f-150, 302) in cold weather is that it would occasionally flood and
then no amount of cranking would clear it, only cure was to let it sit for 4
or 5 hours

The efi on the 300 was available starting in '87 i believe.

Don Jones
1970 f-250 4X4 ~Fordzilla~

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 09:18:10 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours

In a message dated 9/22/99 12:13:03 AM Pacific Daylight Time, yl dds.nl
writes:

>

This isnt bad. When I lived in Reno, my day started at 4:30, started work at
6. (I was a diesel tech) at 2 I got off and went home to quickly eat and
shower, and spend a few hours doing my homework for shop class. At 6 I was
in school, got out at 9:45. From there (on fridays) it was into the car for
a lil over 6 hrs driving to Vegas to see my current GF. Party all weekend,
up early monday morning so I could be at work. That my friends was hell.
And it caused the death of a fun lil 82 Escort, poor lil car just couldnt
handle the 100+ mph required to turn an 8.5 hr drive into my all time record
of 5.5. I love Nevada Hwys. You can drive in a straight line for well over
an hour in places.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 09:26:37 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Break in

In a message dated 9/22/99 4:35:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:


live in a cold climate due to better flow characteristics >>

Not for break in, the synthetic works so well it will never allow the rings
to seat. I used 5w30 in my bros inline. Took it out once, got it hot. let
it cool, considered it broke in. If its not gonna hold after that, it wont
hold period. This method was taught to me by dad, and so far his engines
havent suffered any ill effects. Usually we dont even do a cam break-in. Im
sure by now most of you all think Im nuts, but Its worked for us, so why
change it?

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 06:48:11 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - **Help with Ford 300 I-6 FI**


. My experience with ford EFI
(86 f-150, 302) in cold weather is that it would occasionally flood
and
then no amount of cranking would clear it, only cure was to let it
sit for 4
or 5 hours


Did you try mashing the gas pedal to the floor while cranking after it
flooded? The EFI on most cars is programmed to see that throttle position
as the 'flood clear' position while cranking. The computer should then cut
or eliminate the amount of fuel delivered to the engine and allow the flood
to clear.

Tom H.h
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 09:48:33 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE intakes

Danger writes: >>What differences if any are there in the standard 352, 360,
390 and 428
4bbls intake manifolds? When rebuilding a 390 for a truck, would any
standard 4bbl cast iron intake work well? If there is a cast iron intake of
choice for use with standard FE heads, what would it be?

I found that the later the intake, the better. Continuous small improvements
were made throughout the life of the FE in the intakes. Most any intake from
'67 up is good and probably the '66 GT's, but the 428 of '68 and '69 has much
larger intake runners. They are visibally larger to the naked eye, and the carb
sits a good bit higher due to this(I'm guessing approx 1" to 1 1/2" higher) .
If you can get one of these, then by all means do so. If not I would prefer any
'67 FE intake. Any would work, and Aluminum would definately save the back.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 06:50:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 9 Inch Rear End Vent

Jeff wrote:
> Any advice on how to clean the vent out without getting
> gunkies into the axle?

I don't know about a '64, but on mine the vent fitting is what
holds the block onto the axle tube that splits the brake line
into two . It has a hex on it and screws into the axle. The
actual hole is much smaller than the tubing so you won't find
it by just poking something into it. If I remember, it was
something like 1/16". You can probably use a paperclip to poke
through it.

When I pulled mine, air came out from the pressure in the axle.
Funny thing was, it was after I cleaned it that I blew a rear
axle seal. ???

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
in digest mode

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 11:21:00 +0200
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 9 Inch Rear End Vent

Well, I would have used the excellent vacuum pump that comes with every old
pickup truck,,,, which should be able to pull 22" of vacuum at the most or
so.

Buy yourself a hose, the size of the PCV hose from the bottom of the carb.
Then, cut the hose and put on an inline filter, maybe a big fuel filter
will work,, AND DO NOT FORGET THIS FILTER THING, unless you want dirt in
your engine.

Start the engine, and let it do the job....

Vacuum is a strange thing,,, if you use a thin and long hose you will
experience a low pulling force,,,, if you use a bigger hose, and then in
the end a short and thin hose you will experience a better solution.

Or, if you want to be a very sophisticated and smart person, you let the
hose from the engine go to a vacuum tank, a Booster tank, made from a
propane bottle or something like that, and then a short and rather thick
hose and a thin plastic pipe in the end,, and hopefully you get the dirt
out of the hole...

If you are very afraid of getting dirt in the axle housing, it is also
possible to put a T-pipe piece over the hole, put the vacuum hose out to
the side, and use a drill with your fingers in the straight through hole,
and you get drilling and suction at the same time.

Just a thought from overseas....

Bill

- --------
> From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 9 Inch Rear End Vent
> Date: 22. september 1999 05:22
>
> Maybe scratch the stuff out, while holding a shop vac REAL close? I
dunno,
> never had the problem myself. Lemme know what you come up with.
>
> Darrell Duggan
> 74 F-350 "Tweety"
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 10:18:05 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re-built & Machining

Actually the cross hatching is designed to allow the rings to wear in and
wear the cylinder in at the same time so they match. The peaks get worn
down very quickly and the vallys become narrower as they wear so there is
little space for gases to escape but without the cross hatching the rings
would never seat. The moly rings are very tough which is why almost all
OEM's use them exclusively.

Moly is one of the toughest (not hardest) materials known to man so it takes
some abuse to make it wear. Ford iron is also very tough so you have to
give the rings a fighting chance to do battle with it by making the surface
a tad more porous with the cross hatching. Between the file like abrasion
of the cross hatching in the cylinders against the rings and the toughnes of
the rings eating away at the peaks of the cross hatching you eventually
arive at a stale mate which we call "seating". The angle of the cross hatch
(controlled by vertical stroke and rpm) and the pitch and depth of the
crosshatch (controlled by grit size) are important to ensure the correct
ratio of abrasion so they both wear in together. Exactly how critical it
really is I can't say but the book stresses it so I would guess it's fairly
important.

The actual amount of wear of both parts is not very much but it has to
happen to seat the rings and we usually allow for it if we have room which
is one of the advantages of a rebore, it gives you full control of
clearances and also that little extra to allow for breakin which you can't
do if you don't bore and use new pistons. I wouldn't expect to get the same
mileage from an engine which was not bored but if you have more time than
money you can certainly get enough out of a rebuild without boring if your
cylinders are in good shape to make it worth the trouble. I have over 70k
miles on mine and the rings are still in fine shape but I did use new forged
pistons.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> was no cross hatch pattern visible in any cylinder.

> rings and application, as well as piston speed. 600 grit and
> chrome moly I
> think is satisfactory 400 grit and Cast Iron is good. Just
> think of the
> cylinder walls as washboards at a gravel road intersection. By slowly
> taking down the bumps you can go faster over them with out damaging
> anything.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 09:23:22 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hey everybody!

Hey guys, didja miss me ? :)

I had a great time out in CO workin on Jeff's truck and chattin with DaveR
... lots of big plans for my truck now ... just gotta get it back from Dad
;)

We got to mess with the Sanderson headers for the FE, and some March pullies
... that 428 should be one mean machine when he gets it fired up ...

So what'd I miss ? :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 10:48:03 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Break in

I agree, I didn't mean for break in :-)

The reason you do a cam break in is to ensure plenty of oil gets to the
lobes during this crucial stage of it's life. The polishing and mating of
parts will take place whether you supply oil to it or not but without oil it
will remove more material and cause galling which will shorten it's useful
life or even, in worst case, cause premature failure, well before you might
expect. I once mixed up the cam followers on a 2000cc pinto motor after
doing a valve job and flattened a lobe in less than two weeks. These were
already mated and had some uneven wear which exacerbated the effect but it's
the same principle as not breaking in the cam before using it on the street
with stop and go or slow idle conditions etc.. All the surfaces are very
nicely ground and they look smooth and shiny but the alignment in the engine
changes relationships between moving parts so that even smooth parts need
some honing and polishing and then must remain together for life for best
results. You can get away without a cam breakin if you get in and drive it
for 20 minutes at highway speeds before doing anything else with it which
will do the same thing as running it at 2k rpm for 20 minutes in the garage.

Another fact some of you may not be aware of is that a cam lobe has about a
1 degree angle on the top of the lobe, side to side or axially with the
shaft to allow for proper breakin and to rotate the lifters for even wear as
well as reduce friction between the lifter and cam lobe. Spring pressure
from the valve springs on the lifters presses them into the cam lobe with
tremendous force. Once this angle is completely gone the cam lobe will self
destruct very quickly which is one reason it is not recommended to reuse old
cams. (since some or all of this angle is gone) Yes, you can get away with
it and maybe even lots of times for many miles but it's still not
recommended for the above reasons, depending, of course, on the miles it has
on it. As long as you put all the parts back in the same location they were
in originally so each lobe is mated with it's original lifter you can safely
re-use an old cam if it's in good condition :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

>
> live in a cold climate due to better flow characteristics >>
>
> Not for break in, the synthetic works so well it will never

> havent suffered any ill effects. Usually we dont even do a
> cam break-in. Im
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 08:22:44 -0700
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - cool Item on Ebay, cheap too

Yeah it's cheap. but what'll it cost to ship it?
That manifold has more metal in it than an entire Festiva!
- -----Original Message-----
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com [mailto:JUMPINFORD aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 1999 7:17 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com; perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cool Item on Ebay, cheap too


thought some of yall would like this, Original 428 4v intake, bid starting
at
10 bucks!

HREF="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=167048661">eBay

item 167048661 (Ends 09/24/99, 09:23:46 PDT) - FORD 428 4 BBL INTAKE

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 08:35:29 -0700
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

Check this out: I got a Painless Wiring catalog yesterday and they have this
neato battery wiring kit.

It's called the "CirKit Boss". (I'm quoting from the catalog) The CirKit
Boss Dual battery Current Control System provides twice the amperage for
cold weather starts and the unique ability to jump start your own vehicle.
It features a tri-mode system, operated by a three position switch on the
dash. This gives you control over both batteries.

Mode 1 is used for most conditions. In this position the system has twice
the normal starting amperage automatically. Batteries are isolated with the
ignition off, thus preventing "the dueling battery syndrome". A green dash
light indicates this mode is active.

Mode 2 is provided to lockout the auxilliary battery. In this mode the
secondary battery can be held in reserve when extended periods of winching
or cranking is required.

Mode 3 is used if the main battery won't start the vehicle. This mode
allows a self jump-start from the auxiliarry. A red flashing dash light
indicated this mode is active.

Almost no alterations are necessary to the stock charging system and won't
void OE warranty because the stock charging system operates normally in any
mode.


Is that cool or what? I don't know how much these cost, but I've used PW
stuff in the past and their stuff is great. The kit looks pretty simple and
clean. A 100 amp kit (#40102) and a 200 amp waterproof (#40103) kit are
offered. I want one!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bas van der Veer [mailto:yl dds.nl]
Sent: Monday, September 20, 1999 10:21 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup


>>i was wondering. how hard is it to setup a 2 battery jobby in a truck or
a
>>car. kind of like a diesel truck. do i have to fiddle with altenator
>>settings or can i just splice into the cables and make a platform for te
>>second one? thanks for hte help

You can do that, you just have to be real careful when you disconnect a
battery .. hahah, my uncle once did that and then the phone rang so in a
flash (literally) he put the cable down, forgetting it was still powered by
the other battery.. made quite a mess of his wiring.


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 11:38:40 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Tranny noise

Only thing that comes to mind here is bad/worn/broken spacers or shims
between the gears allowing them to touch in neutral or badly worn shifter
forks or detents which allow the gears to stay in close priximity and not
quite make it to neutral as they should.

Bearings would be noticeable under other conditions as well I should think.
I have some bad noise and vibration under certain conditions which I am
ascribing to both the engine and tranny but when I put the tranny in, the
input shaft felt real nice so.....??

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> My '68 F-100 4x4, 4-speed makes a loud grinding noise when in
> neutral and
> the clutch is out. When the clutch is pushed in, the noise
> goes away. I was
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 11:00:14 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wranglernw.com/
this another company devoted to dual battery setups

-----Original Message-----
From: Southerland, Rich [mailto:rsouther alldata.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 1999 10:35 AM
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

Check this out: I got a Painless Wiring catalog yesterday
and they have this
neato battery wiring kit.

It's called the "CirKit Boss". (I'm quoting from the
catalog) The CirKit
Boss Dual battery Current Control System provides twice the
amperage for
cold weather starts and the unique ability to jump start
your own vehicle.
It features a tri-mode system, operated by a three position
switch on the
dash. This gives you control over both batteries.

Mode 1 is used for most conditions. In this position the
system has twice
the normal starting amperage automatically. Batteries are
isolated with the
ignition off, thus preventing "the dueling battery
syndrome". A green dash
light indicates this mode is active.

Mode 2 is provided to lockout the auxilliary battery. In
this mode the
secondary battery can be held in reserve when extended
periods of winching
or cranking is required.

Mode 3 is used if the main battery won't start the vehicle.
This mode
allows a self jump-start from the auxiliarry. A red
flashing dash light
indicated this mode is active.

Almost no alterations are necessary to the stock charging
system and won't
void OE warranty because the stock charging system operates
normally in any
mode.


Is that cool or what? I don't know how much these cost, but
I've used PW
stuff in the past and their stuff is great. The kit looks
pretty simple and
clean. A 100 amp kit (#40102) and a 200 amp waterproof
(#40103) kit are
offered. I want one!

-----Original Message-----
From: Bas van der Veer [mailto:yl dds.nl]
Sent: Monday, September 20, 1999 10:21 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup


>>i was wondering. how hard is it to setup a 2 battery
jobby in a truck or
a
>>car. kind of like a diesel truck. do i have to fiddle
with altenator
>>settings or can i just splice into the cables and make a
platform for te
>>second one? thanks for hte help

You can do that, you just have to be real careful when you
disconnect a
battery .. hahah, my uncle once did that and then the phone
rang so in a
flash (literally) he put the cable down, forgetting it was
still powered by
the other battery.. made quite a mess of his wiring.


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 15:59:24 +0200
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Break in

> I just finished rebuilding a 460 for my '71 F350.

When was the first year the 460 was used in a truck, like the F-350 ? I
mean from the factory...


Bill



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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 10:36:36
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - pressure switch

>Any Home Depot, Menard's, Knox, or other super hardware store should carry
>those switches. I built an air tank from scratch using an air-brake tank
>from a semi-trailer. The one that straddles the rear tires. It has four

I got a 5 gallon portable tank for my system, works good too. It had little
feet so you could set it on the ground, and a pipe-threaded opening on top.
I found that in the back of my bronco above the rear driveshaft there is a
huge gap, nothing inbetween the frame and the body is very high up. I fit
the tank upside down so the opening is on the bottom and serves as a drain
plug as well (I got a little drain valve there). Still clears the exhaust
and driveshaft (springs fully compressed) by about 1-2".

>openings and one on the bottom for the drain plug. Using fittings from the
>above stores (money adds-up quickly here!), it looks and operates

Sure does.. I spent about $100 on the hoses and fittings, another $100 on
the pump, brackets, belts, and $80 on tank, pressure switch, valve etc. I
know there are people who get the whole thing for $78.45 but I'm just not
enough into that stuff to get all used parts from friends for next to
nothing. Everything was new except for the tank and compressor.

>identically to my Craftsman floor model in my garage. This tank will go into
>my '79 F150 whenever I get around to finding an A/C unit for the 460 along
>with it's bracket and hoses.

I got mine from a junk yard, the type where they disassemble the trucks
themselves and you can order the parts. Pick 'n pull yards are usually a
lot cheaper but you have to have the time (and patience) to go and visit
dozens of yards, not even knowing exactly what the bracket looks like.


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 19:33:29
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Armor all removal

>>You should have seen what I did in my younger days! I thought Armor All was
>>cool and I put it on everything, including the gas, brake and clutch pedals.
>>My poor feet didn't know what to do. I sanded them to remove it.
>That must have been painful!

Yeah he would have been better off sanding the pedals rather than his feet
hahahahah ;-)


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 19:18:34
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III

>A starter can draw over 400 lock rotor amps but can't sustain that amperage
>for very long. One of the battery tests is a 400 amp load for a few
>seconds. (forgot how many)

I think actually they draw more; a friend of mine used two for a robot and
they were drawing well in excess of 1000 amps. Also in my truck I can
notice a good difference between a 400 CA and 700 CA battery.


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 19:27:34
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III

>My son came up for a visit with a 91 tempo and had been having trouble with
>it cutting out on the road. He had replaced the harness to the alternator
>and the connection kept melting so we cleaned it up, re-crimped the

Yeah, my uncle's-wife's-mother's taurus caught fire (!) last summer when
the alternator cut out. She is old and not technical but pretty brave, she
got the fire extinguisher, opened the hood and put it out. Many people
would have freaked out and never even think about actually extinguishing
the fire.


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 20:28:21
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours

>>
>
>This isnt bad. When I lived in Reno, my day started at 4:30, started work
at
>6. (I was a diesel tech) at 2 I got off and went home to quickly eat and
>shower, and spend a few hours doing my homework for shop class. At 6 I was
>in school, got out at 9:45. From there (on fridays) it was into the car for
>a lil over 6 hrs driving to Vegas to see my current GF. Party all weekend,
>up early monday morning so I could be at work. That my friends was hell.

When I lived in morgan hill (CA) I usually got up at 5-5.30 to go to work
(35 miles) and get back by 7 or 8 at night, eat some and straight to bed..
then at friday pack and drive 300 miles to go four wheeling, which is
probably not as bad as partying and drinking but still pretty intense. Then
on late sunday night do my laundry and get back to work again. I actually
liked it. Only a few more hours of sleep but they make all the difference.
Man if you get to that turning point, half an hour more or less seems to do
it all.

Now I'm back in university in the netherlands. Right now they're so low on
money they can't afford the teachers and turning the course into self
study. I only have colleges for about 9 hours a week.. So I've already
started two jobs ;-)

>And it caused the death of a fun lil 82 Escort, poor lil car just couldnt
>handle the 100+ mph required to turn an 8.5 hr drive into my all time record
>of 5.5. I love Nevada Hwys. You can drive in a straight line for well over
>an hour in places.

That's very relaxed driving although my truck gets kinda noisy, the window
gaskets etc aren't that good anymore so there is a lot of wind noise, and
no cruise control..

Don't they check speeds in nevada? I noticed everybody drives so slow in
the cities. Compared to that, here in the netherlands people drive crazy,
we have very such narrow roads, and the distances are so short (less than
200 miles cross-country) and some people drive like they have a stick up
their a$$.

I like driving slow, barely touching the gas, havin the windows open,
enjoying the peaceful rumble of my 351M at 800 rpm..



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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 13:36:48 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III

> >My son came up for a visit with a 91 tempo and had been having
> trouble with
> >it cutting out on the road. He had replaced the harness to the
> alternator
> >and the connection kept melting so we cleaned it up, re-crimped the
>
> Yeah, my uncle's-wife's-mother's taurus caught fire (!) last summer when
> the alternator cut out.


hahahaha ...reminds me of Dad ... noticed some smoke comin out of his a/c
ducts, but figured it was just frost from the cool air (its happened before)
... so he drove the 9miles or so home ... stopping at the bottom of our
driveway (its longish) he noticed the smoke was coming out from under the
hood now ... so he drove it up the hill really fast and got some water
(!?!?!) from the outdoor faucet and put it out ... all wearing a 3piece suit
of course ... in a rusty old Tempo :) It would've been quite a site, but we
were all waiting on him for supper and wondering what was taking him so
long!

he always said he was gonna drive it til the wheels fell off ... well a
wheel bearing failed and he almost lost the wheel, but he fixed it and is
still driving it...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 12:10:15 -0700
From: "James A. Doty"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - EFI and Dual tanks

Hi All:

As some of you know I own a '78 E-150 with dual
gas tanks.

I'm interested in building an EFI engine I saw in
a magazine a couple of days ago. I realize
that I'll need fuel return lines for both tanks.

What I wanted to know is if anyone knows if Ford
used to or does produce a truck or
van that's got an EFI engine and dual tanks?

It would be easier for me to find an existing
system then have to create one from scratch.

James A. Doty
dotyj earthlink.net

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 20:12:04 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Henderson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI and Dual tanks

On 9/22/99, 2:10:15 PM, "James A. Doty" wrote=20
regarding FTE 61-79 - EFI and Dual tanks:
> It would be easier for me to find an existing
> system then have to create one from scratch.
James:

My '85 F-250 with a 460 had return fuel lines on it and had dual=20
tanks. It did not have EFI, though. For what it's worth.

Dave H

- --=20
_
_| ~~. David Henderson
\, _} DHenders VT.Edu
\( Gig 'em Aggies! '93
Beat Southern Miss!!

Currently at:
Interdepartmental Genetics Program
2010 Litton Reaves Hall
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
Blacksburg, VA 24061
(540)231-4773
(540)231-5014
DHenders VT.Edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dasc.vt.edu/henderson/dhenderson.html




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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 14:16:09 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - EFI and Dual tanks

> I'm interested in building an EFI engine I saw in
> a magazine a couple of days ago. I realize
> that I'll need fuel return lines for both tanks.
>
> What I wanted to know is if anyone knows if Ford
> used to or does produce a truck or
> van that's got an EFI engine and dual tanks?
>


Yup, we've got 2, an 88 (or 9) F250 w/5.8L and a 91 F250 w/5.0L ...dual
tanks and multi port injection on both ...

also check the Jeg's catalog, Holley makes a system for dual tanks and fuel
injection ... no idea how it works or anything, but may allow you to use
your exsisting tanks and not mess with all the other stuff ...


FYI 98+ Mustangs no longer have the fuel return! No idea how they're doin
it, but its causing some problems in the aftermarket ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 16:01:06 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Break in

In a message dated 9/22/99 5:17:37 PM !!!First Boot!!!, bill online.no writes:


When was the first year the 460 was used in a truck, like the F-350 ? I
mean from the factory..>>

My 74 is the earliest I know of.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 13:48:41 -0700
From: Marv Miller
Subject: FTE 61-79 - No Engine Wear

Azie wrote:

> I've got two 460's (pre '72) that have just been gone thru and put back
> together. Neither of them were overbored, and both have in excess of 250,000
> miles on them. There was less than .0005" out of round and wear. Neither of
> them exhibit any kind of piston slap. I even used the original cam and lifters
> in both. No apparent wear on either set.

OK, we've GOT to know. What brand of oil, filters, and intervals?

Marv Miller mailto:ae722 lafn.org
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 16:42:45 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - No Engine Wear

Azie

Where these motors run on propane?

Larry



At 01:48 PM 9/22/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Azie wrote:
>
>> I've got two 460's (pre '72) that have just been gone thru and put back
>> together. Neither of them were overbored, and both have in excess of
250,000
>> miles on them. There was less than .0005" out of round and wear.
Neither of
>> them exhibit any kind of piston slap. I even used the original cam and
lifters
>> in both. No apparent wear on either set.
>
>OK, we've GOT to know. What brand of oil, filters, and intervals?
>
>Marv Miller mailto:ae722 lafn.org
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>
>

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 15:14:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hey everybody!

wish wrote:
[I'm back from CJ's)

> So what'd I miss ? :)
>

Welcome back, Bill. And, you're not getting off that easy. We
expect you to fully read each digest in your overflowing
mailbox, and fix all our screw-ups :-)
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 18:06:15 -0400
From: Marvin & Michelle Meyer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours

I think here in Europe it isn't even legal for a person to drive commercial
vehicles more than 8-10 hours a day. Then also you need to take breaks
etc.. there are plenty of people who drive more but it's a pretty serious
offense.
In Canada it's the same, however two or even three log books will keep the
OTR driver busy. Missisauga Ont. to Bakersfield Ca. In 27hrs Quad tanks and
5 miles per gallon lots of tunes.

Marvin
meyer stratford.webgate.net


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 16:51:51 -0700
From: "James A. Doty"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI and Dual tanks

Hi William:

Thanks for the info. I wonder how Ford's handling excess fuel on the Stangs?
I'll
look into it.

James A. Doty
dotyj earthlink.net

"William S. Hart" wrote:

> Yup, we've got 2, an 88 (or 9) F250 w/5.8L and a 91 F250 w/5.0L ...dual
> tanks and multi port injection on both ...
>
> FYI 98+ Mustangs no longer have the fuel return! No idea how they're doin
> it, but its causing some problems in the aftermarket ...

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 19:46:50 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI and Dual tanks

James A. Doty wrote:
>
> Hi William:
>
> Thanks for the info. I wonder how Ford's handling excess fuel on the Stangs?
> I'll
> look into it.
>

It turns fuel pump on/off to maintain pressure.

OX
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 20:11:59 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions-- Dana-60 rear brake job

Got a couple of trivial questions for you guys--

First off-- what is the size of the nut on the rear axle dana-60 that holds
the wheelbearings in? ('76 F-250 4x4 31 spline rear) It looks to be about
2.5 inches. (can't get a nut off to find out to take to a place which
sells sockets)

Secondly-- When putting new bearings back in, is it ok to cover them with
wheel bearing grease until the gearlube can work its way out to them, or is
it better to just dunk them in gearlube?

Third-- How tight do the bearing nuts go down on them?

Thanks for the information guys.

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 17:45:05 -0700
From: "Jacques and Barbara DeKalb"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Centralia/Chehalis swap meet

Is anyone on the list planning to attend the Centralia/Chehalis, WA, swap
meet this weekend? We are going and would enjoy meeting any FTE members
there on Saturday. E-mail me privately and maybe we can set up a meeting.
Otherwise, I'll wear my FTE t-shirt and hope you introduce yourself!
Jacques,
Bend, Ore.



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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 17:54:06 PDT
From: "NP 540"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - pressure switch

About those pressure switches, if once installed, you experience
flickering, it might well be due to the wrong kind of pressure-swith
(meaning, for a well pump) As those pressure switches are the same
for piston-pumps and jet-pumps (water well). That is EXEPT the fitting
where the pressure is taken! On a jet-pump, the hole in that fitting
is about 1/8, but on a piston-pump, that hole is about 1/16. I once
had a MADDENING problem with my piston water well pump; kept flickering! I
even rebuilt the WHOLE pump! Problem kept coming back.
So, I hired a plumber; he spoted the problem right away! Wrong
fitting, so he just filled that 1/8 hole with solder, and drilled a 1/16
hole in it. Best $10 buck I ever spent! Endured that loosy
flickering for too many months! Of course, each time I went checking
that "loosy" well pump, I kept sayin'; "AC-DELCO, AC-DELCO!
Well, not any more! Now, it is: "Powered by FORD!"
hehehe
I hope that little info could be of some help with your air-tank!


______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 18:05:13 PDT
From: "NP 540"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Diesel bolt pattern

Do someone know if the bellhousing bolt pattern of a Ford truck
diesel engine is the same as a 460? Is so, does a 5-speed transmission
from a diesel engine could be bolted on behing a 351M/400-429-460?

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 19:04:20 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Over Load Springs.

Once again I have some parts that I am going to offer to anyone that wants
to drive over and pick them up.

I just pulled a set of overload springs off of the back of my 75 F250. they
look like this:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.performancesuspension.com/hellwiglp.html
I have no Idea what brand they are, and the hardware suffered at the hands
of the gorilla that installed them! They will take new hardware.
They are free and located in Portland, Oregon.
First one here getz em!

Last time that I did this; Bas drove from south of San Francisco to pick up
a Bronco Tire Carrier, I'm guessing that he'll hold the longest distance
traveled for cheap parts for a long while!

I also still have a Smitty Built 78-79 Bronco Roll Cage fully welded and now
a bolt in unit if anyone is interested, it is not free, but reasonably
priced.

Contact me off line for details if your interested in ether of these.

Muel
79 Bronco
75 F250 4x4


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 19:10:21 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351C finally running

Well, just finished the exhaust on my 72' F-100, drove it for 20
minutes, then parked it.... wow what a difference horsepower and noise
make !!
Had 2 flowmasters with 3" pipe setup...
My 351C-2V with a Performer manifold and 500 Edelbrock carb wants to
play..
Tomorrow I change out the oil then give a days run on Friday.
Mike in Burien
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 19:58:41 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours

>Hm really, after 16 hours of straight driving I'm dead meat,

Don't be so skeptical,alot of people work loooong hours.
Before we went to 2 crews if I could not drive as long as nessasary
to get the job done,I would be unemployeed meat.

>I think here in europe it isn't even legal for a person to drive >commercial vehicles more than 8-10 hours a day. Then also you need to >take breaks etc..

Same here but Fed.regs. don't apply if you are operating within a 100
mile radius of home.State Regs.apply and we don't have any in my state.

>Never heard of a 330 .. guess it's a heavy duty engine?

Yes,based on the FE series.FT series

>Did you actually TRY other brands?.

Yes,I work for a goverment agency.Trucks are bought strickly on a low
bid basis.We have all sizes and brands of trucks.
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 23:47:04 -0400
From: Garry Bowling
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Azie's comment

Azie thanks for the comments on the truck. I have a lot of time, sweat
and money in the truck and does require patience to keep it that way. I
am glad the oil pan problem is fixed (I think) I am still seeing some
dripping but I do know for a fact that the driver side valve cover is
leaking on the back corner. So this weekend I will replace that gasket.
If anyone has suggestions to make sure it stops I am open. The gasket
on it has only been on it for about 3 months and it didn't cure the
problem. I just cannot get the corners tight. As for the steering
wheel, I have been working on the tech article and will hopefully have
it finished in the very near future. I will be posting new pictures on
web site once I get them. The picture that is on the web is old and
doesn't show the truck completed as it is now.
Azie thanks again for the comments.
Garry

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:21:48 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours

>> I think here in Europe it isn't even legal for a person to drive
>>commercial
>> vehicles more than 8-10 hours a day. Then also you need to take breaks
> In Canada it's the same, however two or even three log books will keep the
> OTR driver busy. Missisauga Ont. to Bakersfield Ca. In 27hrs Quad tanks and
> 5 miles per gallon lots of tunes.

So they have multiple log books per driver? Hmm.. and then they show
whichever one applies? Or do they have "virtual" drivers? ;-)
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:24:36 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - driving many hours

> >Hm really, after 16 hours of straight driving I'm dead meat,
> Don't be so skeptical,alot of people work loooong hours.

Well that must be why you see that many truck drivers swirl over the
shoulder and nearly running into stalled cars etc..

> Before we went to 2 crews if I could not drive as long as nessasary
> to get the job done,I would be unemployeed meat.

But at least you're not putting yourself and others in danger

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