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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #338
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61-79-list-digest Monday, September 20 1999 Volume 03 : Number 338



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Headers & 400
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum Guage tuning.
RE: FTE 61-79 - Stereo
RE: FTE 61-79 - Trans Questions
RE: FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C
RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 352 and C6 Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - Headers & 400
FTE 61-79 - Re: What's wrong with the Big C
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III
FTE 61-79 - NP435 & NP205 Questions
RE: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices
FTE 61-79 - rebuilds and ridges
FTE 61-79 - FTE Perf - Trans Questions
FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III
FTE 61-79 - pressure switch
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Armor all removal
RE: FTE 61-79 - pressure switch
FTE 61-79 - More Questions about engine choices
FTE 61-79 -
FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C
FTE 61-79 - dual batteries
FTE 61-79 - Pressure switch
Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers & 400
FTE 61-79 - 352 and C6
Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo
Re: FTE 61-79 - dual batteries
FTE 61-79 - Vacuum guage
RE: FTE 61-79 - More Questions about engine choices
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III
RE: FTE 61-79 - NP435 & NP205 Questions
RE: FTE 61-79 - dual batteries
RE: FTE 61-79 - rebuilds and ridges
RE: FTE 61-79 -
FTE 61-79 - driveshafts??
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum Guage tuning.
FTE 61-79 - Gary - engine choices
FTE 61-79 - Gasket/molding
Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo
FTE 61-79 - Put the Stereo article in the Tech Section
RE: FTE 61-79 - More Questions about engine choices
Re: FTE 61-79 - More Questions about engine choices
FTE 61-79 - Tom - Any knowledge of the Merc 410 ci?
FTE 61-79 - 66 Has Ugly Dashpad
Re: FTE 61-79 - Gasket/molding
Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo
Re: FTE 61-79 - More Questions about engine choices
Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 Has Ugly Dashpad
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum Guage tuning.
FTE 61-79 - Re: 66 has ugly dash
FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79 - 66 Has Ugly Dashpad
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 66 has ugly dash

=======================================================================

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 04:39:10 -0500
From: George Ramsower
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Headers & 400

I have been looking in the various ads for headers to fit a 78 F-150
with a 400 engine and 2wd. All the ads I've seen list my combination for
4wd trucks only. My question now is, if I use those headers, will I have
any reason to be unhappy with the way the tubes are routed? What
problems might I encounter?

George Ramsower
San Antonio,TEXAS

www.TheTinBox.com

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 07:22:28 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum Guage tuning.

In a message dated 9/20/99 1:11:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
JUMPINFORD aol.com writes:


I recall a while ago someone (Azie?) wrote on how to tune a carb and
time
an engine using only a vacuum, gauge. Could I talk you into re-posting that
info? Thanks >>

You'll find your article at this site. Just look under tech articles for
Performance tuning with a vacuum gauge!

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.centuryperformance.com/tech.htm

George
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 07:36:49 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Stereo

Depending on the amount of drop you need there will be heat generated using
just a resistor. 12v to 5v probably won't be a problem unless you also run
some kind of amp at that voltage and through the same resistor and depending
on the size of your speakers. If you feed a 12v amp to the speakers then
all your resistor is supplying is the CD which is not much draw.

I did the opposit, put a car radio in my barn using a 15v transformer,
resistors and diodes to produce continuous 12v DC using a rectifyer bridge I
made myself from radio shack discrete parts and bread boards. Works great
and has enough wattage to support my truck speakers rated at 50 watts. Used
a retractable antenna that I bought for the bronco but which did not fit the
fender without serious mods. Looks dorky but makes good music :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Sorry to bug you guys but do ya'll know how to make a voltage
> regulator. I
> am setting up a single disc player in my truck using a
> computer CD rom. Any
> help would be greatly appreciated.
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 07:46:38 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Trans Questions

ZF, made in Germany and has two ratings depending on the year you grab. It
has an all aluminum case, uses ATF, is notorious for burning up, was used in
big block applications with BW 1356 transfer case in 4x4 applicaions and
costs about $2000 new.

Model numbers and ratings are:

ZF-542
ZF-547

As I recall and the 42 is 420 ft/lbs and 47 is 470 ft/lbs. The were used
behind the diesels too :-)

Even the rebuilder claims that it's not a very reliable tranny and suggests
you stay with the Np435 or T18 for hard usage.

Clutch linkage is optional. Both hydraulic and mechanical have been used
over the years and since the same engines and trannys were used with both,
all you have to do is find the parts and put them in :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> What 5 speed Trans (5th. overdrive) was used behind a late
> model 460 in a
> 2WD truck?
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 08:00:32 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C

They are all correct, I was refering to the 4v head version. 2v is no
different than the 351m or windsor as a truck motor, pretty good and
typically comes with a slightly better crank configuration if you do hop it
up.

4V's in a 5k# truck are a dog until you hit about 40 mph in second, then
they come into their own or you have to run a high stall converter or slip
the clutch like mad to get any get up and go out of them. When people
mention Cleveland, the first thing I think of is 4v since that is the only
one I've dealt with and the only real advantage the cleveland has over the
others, but not in a truck :-) Mine was in a 5,000 pound 4x4, 75 ford van
which had a 351w originally and then the cleveland and then a 429 (which in
spite of about 200k miles on it still ran like a scared monkey but burned
more oil than gas) and then the 460 which now resides in my 78 pickup :-)
Once you have come to understand the truth....you can't go back....:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Hello all,
>
> I just read Gary's opinion of the Cleveland and wanted to
> know why it's so
> low???
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 08:05:49 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 352 and C6 Question

C-6's are made (were made) in 3 configurations I know of:

small block (289, 302, 351W, 351C, I-6)
FE (330,352,360,390,406,410,427,428)
Big block (351m/400, 429/460)

It has an integral housing so you must get the correct version or find a
housing and swap all the internal parts.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I have a c6 on my 390 so it should bolt up to yours.
> >
> > Will my 352 bolt up to a C6? I'm considering swapping out
> my NP435 for a
> > C6.
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 08:12:03 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Headers & 400

I believe I used the 4x4 headers on my 78 2wd with 460 and they fit fine but
can't remember for sure right now. Seems like that was the only kind they
offered for my application too.

Mine were a very tight fit but with a little prying on one side I managed to
bend the whole thing over just enought to get it right. Didn't need much
but it did have to be tweaked a little and they come awfully close to the
starter and narrowly miss the frame. I used a board to distribute the
prybar pressure so they didn't kink. I wrapped mine which protects the
starter somewhat and makes them quiter.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I have been looking in the various ads for headers to fit a 78 F-150
> with a 400 engine and 2wd. All the ads I've seen list my
> combination for
> 4wd trucks only. My question now is, if I use those headers,
> will I have
> any reason to be unhappy with the way the tubes are routed? What
> problems might I encounter?
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 07:35:50 -0500
From: "Jay Fleming"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: What's wrong with the Big C

On the subject of 351C's, I think they're a great alternative (with the
2v heads) for a fellow like me, who really dig the look of the older
trucks and don't need the 'grunt' of an FE. For one thing, they can
be bolted up to an AOD or AODE and gas mileage will improve as
a result. For another, they'll really sing!

also, Mike Pacheco wrote:
> I just got my 351C-2V rebuilt, all I've gotta do is get the exhaust
> together, What does the list think about flowmasters?
> I couldn't get headers to fit, does anyone know of a manufacturer?

Mike, a couple of options to look at are 1) headers made to fit 77-
79 pickups with a 351m/400. There is the issue of the additional 1"
deck height on those motors, so a call to the manufacturer would
be wise. 2) Sanderson headers make three varieties of shorty
headers to fit Clevelands. They advertise a lot in old truck
magazines, and you can follow the links on one of our fellow
enthusiast's site at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.pacifier.com/~draco/

He also has a nice Flowmaster setup he is using with his
Sanderson headers on his FE.

Hope this helps.

Jay Fleming
'72 F100 Ranger (work in progress)





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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 08:42:23 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III

In most cases I'm aware of the accessories are made to run at 12v with what
they call a "run margin" of a few volts and amps. The accessory will draw
the rated amperage at 12v and run at 100% efficiency but will "tolerate" an
additional 5v due to wiring considerations etc. and the attendant increase
in amperage. One of the ways the voltage is controlled, as was mentioned,
is by wire size. The accessory wattage requirment is known and the wire
length between the source and load is known so you can calculate the voltage
drop across the wire and accessory to arrive at the proper voltage drop for
each and still produce 14v at the alternator without over driving any of the
accessories. This, of course, is a delicate balance because heat is the
result when you use wire size to control current or voltage drop. Put a
little grease on the fuseable links in a modern car and watch them smoke
when you first fire it up. First time I saw this I was very shocked :-)
They stayed like that for several years and never gave up or melted the
insulation off. They were designed to run hot :-) I tested them every way I
could think of but the numbers kept coming out according to the book.

My 7.5 hp compressor for instance draws 30 amps normally but can, under low
voltage conditions, run safely as high as 35 amps, continuously with no
damage due to additional construction considerations in the design. This
same motor, BTW, draws 218 "lock rotor" amps :-)

A starter can draw over 400 lock rotor amps but can't sustain that amperage
for very long. One of the battery tests is a 400 amp load for a few
seconds. (forgot how many)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> All the electrical stuff on your rig is engineered to run at
> 14-15 volts;
> however, it will run at 12 volts. I figure the reason they
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 07:28:21 -0400
From: "Clem Salek"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - NP435 & NP205 Questions

Does anyone have at their fingertips the gear ratios of the NP435 Trans? I
believe reverse is 6.68:1 and fourth is 1:1. What about gears 1,2,3??
What about the 205's low range?
Clem

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 06:56:06 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices

Thanks for your message at 06:55 AM 9/18/99 -0400, Peters, Gary (G.R.).
Your message was:
>Unless you just want the status of owning a cleveland and saying to your
>buddies "I have a Cleveland in my truck" you DON'T WANT A CLEVELAND in your
>truck with 4v heads unless all you want to do is drag race and then you
>would be better served with a 460 :-)


I'm glad you added the 4V head comment...I have a 351C w/2V heads and I
love it! I bought the truck with engine already installed, but I have not
once in the three years I've had it, have I even once wished I had a
different engine. And even though it is not the big 4V "huge hole" heads,
I do just fine from stop light to stop light. This coming weekend I'm
taking a 600 mile round trip, pulling a trailer loaded with my daughter's
stuff, and I have no doubts the Cleveland (along with the rest of the
truck) will make the trip with flying colors.

I will admit I have considered moving the Cleveland to my Mustang and
putting my 429 in my truck, but why mess with a good thing?


Dennis L. Pearson

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson.index.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/dlp.htm
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 09:02:18 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rebuilds and ridges

I agree with Gary on the cylinder ridge. I also feel that it is not required
nor desirable to replace pistons and rebore on the first rebuild. The rings
are designed to wear out first, similar to brake pads. With the advent of
metalic pads and a brake shop on every corner, we have become conditioned to
expect to need a resurface everytime we do a brake job. The only time you
should rebore a block is when a cylinder is out of round and then it should
only be bored enough to true it. If you wait to do a rebuild until the
engine won't run any more or even until oil consumption is extremely high,
then the rings are probably long gone, the pistons are slapping the cylinder
wall and when you get in you will need to do all those things we are
discussing. On the other hand, I have seen well cared for engines with
almost 200k miles that spec-ed out and did not need a rebore. The ridge was
very minute. I regularly used chrome rings, new rod and crank bearings, all
new seals and gaskets, new timing set, new cam bearings, and whatever head
work was needed, a valve job at the least. The engines I tracked ran well
into their next 100k without problem. I have seen chrome rings seat
immediately and I've seen them take up to 500 miles. If you have 2000 miles
still using oil, something is wrong, probably not the rings being seated.
The most common problem I have seen with engine rebuilds is putting the head
gaskets on wrong. Water doesn't circulate right, if at all. You get bent
pushrods, siezed valves, and worse. Plus if you max bore the first time,
it's new engine next time.

Sorry to ramble, but if you are simply trying to restore your engine to good
operation and not a performance demon or some other obscure or unusual goal,
don't waste the money on parts you don't need.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 18:58:28 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE Perf - Trans Questions

What 5 speed Trans (5th. overdrive) was used behind a late model 460 in a
2WD truck?
What kind of linkage was used for the clutch; Manual ,or Hydraulic?
Would it have a bolt on flange or a slip yoke for the output?
What would the Torque rating for this 5 spd. Trans be?

TIA.
MUEL
79 Bronco 400, 4spd.
75 F250 4x4


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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 07:08:51 -0700
From: "Scott Jensen"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III

Hi Tom.
Thanks for clarifying the series connection. Yes, it's true that voltage
does drop across any load, so a bad wire in series before the designed load
would see a voltage drop at the connection of the designed load. Current
through the series would remain the same until the series opened, i.e.,
fried wire. But the voltage at the battery would remain the same, which is
the place I've seen every buddy that's ever broke down in my driveway with
a charging problem check. Their first statement after that is, "everything
must be ok..I have 12 volts".

But lets not miss the forest through the trees. It's easy to overlook the
alternator as the problem, because the battery will try and take up the
slack. A so so alternator can still put out rated voltage under a low load
condition. It's still bad.

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 09:12:04 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - pressure switch

>>Does your Sears have a service and parts department? They should be
able to get you one as a replacement part for one of their compressors.

Go visit the compressor display and get a model number. Their parts guys
can't get a drink of water without a model number.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 07:14:26 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Armor all removal

Thanks for your message at 01:49 PM 9/17/99 -0700, Christeen Bradley. Your
message was:
>You should have seen what I did in my younger days! I thought Armor All was
>cool and I put it on everything, including the gas, brake and clutch pedals.
>My poor feet didn't know what to do. I sanded them to remove it.

That must have been painful!


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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 09:20:07 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - pressure switch

Any Home Depot, Menard's, Knox, or other super hardware store should carry
those switches. I built an air tank from scratch using an air-brake tank
from a semi-trailer. The one that straddles the rear tires. It has four
openings and one on the bottom for the drain plug. Using fittings from the
above stores (money adds-up quickly here!), it looks and operates
identically to my Craftsman floor model in my garage. This tank will go into
my '79 F150 whenever I get around to finding an A/C unit for the 460 along
with it's bracket and hoses.

-----Original Message-----
From: John LaGrone [mailto:jlagrone ford-trucks.com]
Sent: Monday, September 20, 1999 9:12 AM
To: -FordTruckDigest
Subject: FTE 61-79 - pressure switch

>>Does your Sears have a service and parts department? They
should be
able to get you one as a replacement part for one of their
compressors.

Go visit the compressor display and get a model number.
Their parts guys
can't get a drink of water without a model number.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 10:30:38 -0400
From: Greg Fisher
Subject: FTE 61-79 - More Questions about engine choices

Thanks to Jason Kendrick, George Litton, Danger (I'd like to get that 460
off you, if just fro future use, but too far away), Tom Hogan, and Gary
Peters for your answers and the welcome to the list. I wasn't able to get
this out the past weekend because I was a cr show, the Charlotte Auto Fair.
Well, it seems the 390 route is the way to go. I guess I'll know whether or
not I'll go 30 over. I have a few more questions now:

1) Since there are no 4V FE heads and it has been mentioned that "pocket
porting" is a waste of time, would it still be beneficial to polish the
bowls and port match to the intake?
2) Which way is the best way to go with the intake: find a cast iron one or
just go with the Edelbrock performer 390?
3) Would a 428 be that much better? I know "there's no substitute for
cubes", but does the 428 have the low end torque that atruck needs?

I plan on using this as a work truck: hauling and towing. The thing I don't
want tho, is having to go 55mph on the interstate(70mph) when I need to go
somewhere.
Thanks again.

Greg Fisher
'68 F150 Longbed
Rock Hill/Townville SC


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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 09:37:17 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 -

>> of course if there is room in the cab
that might be a place to go to

DO NOT I repeat DO NOT put a battery in the cab. They emit explosive
hydrogen gas. One cigarette or any other spark and it is bye bye Travis.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 09:30:04 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C

>> A stock 351C 4v head is about the eqivelant to a 350 chevy head with
1000 bucks worth of machining.

No amount of machining would ever bring a Chebbie 350 head near to a stock
Cleveland. Why? The Chebbie would still have the hot spot in the center due
to the valve configuration putting two exhausts next to each other.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 09:20:10 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dual batteries

>>connect the bat in series (pos to pos, neg to neg)

Pos to pos, neg to neg is parallel, not series. Parallel is what you want.
If you hook up in series you will get 24 volts through your system. Thats OK
if you want fried electricla components which most of us find undesirable.
One downside to simply hooking the batteries together is that if one battery
goes bad, it will drain the other. I have used such a system on several
vehicles over the years. In the early to mid 80s it was real hard to find a
battery with any decent CCA. I had a 69 Caddy convertible with a high
compression 472. The only way I could reliably start it was to put two
batteries on it.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 10:47:19 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pressure switch

Matt writes: >> but I'm having some difficulty with the pressure switch.

Any hardware/automotive store that sells air compressors should have the
pressure "cutoff switch".

You are right in your assumption that a regulator is just that - It regulates
the air pressure out.

Make sure you are saying electrical cutoff switch. They should understand
that. Look under "compressors" in your yellow pages.. Look for a repair shop
listed under there for air compressors, and give them a call

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 08:04:47 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers & 400

Hedman lists an a header for that application. PAW carries it.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: George Ramsower
To: FTE 61-79
Date: Monday, September 20, 1999 2:40 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Headers & 400


>
> I have been looking in the various ads for headers to fit a 78 F-150
>with a 400 engine and 2wd. All the ads I've seen list my combination for
>4wd trucks only. My question now is, if I use those headers, will I have
>any reason to be unhappy with the way the tubes are routed? What
>problems might I encounter?



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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 11:02:29 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 352 and C6

Brian writes: >>Will my 352 bolt up to a C6? I'm considering swapping out my
NP435 for a
C6

Yes it will. You have to get one from the FE family, since the C6 has integral
bellhousing. All FE's carry the same bolt pattern (almost round). The FE's
are: 332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428. C6 from the 302/351W or the
351M/400 or 429/460 will not bolt up.

If you need further info Give me a call (I'm local at work) 464-2578 during
the hours 7AM - 315PM.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 08:21:58 -0700
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo

Mark Mcknight wrote:

> If anyone wants to know the details of this unique little setup Mail me and
> I'll send you directions!! ;o)

How about you do a little write up and have it put under the tech section on
FTE ;)

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4
43 GPW


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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 08:08:56 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - dual batteries

- -----Original Message-----
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dual batteries


>>>connect the bat in series (pos to pos, neg to neg)
>
>Pos to pos, neg to neg is parallel, not series.

ok ok ok ok ok, yes, I made a mistake :-), one I cleared up, with a follow
up post, 9 minutes after the first one hit the list.

I was thinking about a set up I just did for a friend, when I was writing
the reply to Chris.

I must say though, for all the sticks being wielded on the topic of a term,
I did properly instruct the reader on how to install a simple dual battery
system, told him some of the benefits, and a few shortfalls. But yes I did
say series, not parallel.
I beg the forgiveness of the FTE list, for the misuse of a term.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal

Hummmm, Now where is that book of Auto terms :-))))))))))))))))))))

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 12:28:12 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum guage

Darrell writes: >> I recall a while ago someone (Azie?) wrote on how to tune a
carb and time
an engine using only a vacuum, gauge. Could I talk you into re-posting that
info? Thanks

Not me, Darrell. Sorry. I do remember reading it, though.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 13:17:00 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - More Questions about engine choices

Weeeeeeellll......Ya caint argu with cubes, BuBu! The 428 will outperform
smaller engines due to it's cubes if nothing else. With proper camming any
engine can be made to pull down low, even the I-6 :-)

The 460, of course pulls down low without any help or cam considerations
simply because it is "THE 460" :-) In fact you can take the cam right out
and..........:-)

Really though, the 428 would be a really nice choice if you could get one
relatively reasonably. The 390 is a nice torquy engine too but won't be as
torquy as the 428. The beauty of cubes is that you "can" cam it fairly tall
and still get good bottom end whereas the smaller the engine is, the less
tolerant it is out of it's band and the narrower it's usable band gets as
you try to extract more HP from it.

HP is strictly a function of speed and requires the speed to get the numbers
but torque can be obtained at low speeds and maintianed over a long rpm
range with more cubes. More cubes, wider power band. Change the cam to
change the location of the band and it will still be fairly wide. Just
gives you more options for the same cost and work. In a mustang, the weight
might be a consideration but in a truck weight isn't that much of a
consideration so bigger is usually better IMNSHO :-) If you already have an
FE, why not capitalize on the weight you already have by upping the cubes
:-) If you're married you have to learn to use this kind of argument to get
parts money......:-) "Well, as long as it has to be rebuilt I may as well
put bigger parts in it...wont' cost that much more to make it better.....and
it will really be cool when I get done, you'll love it!" :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> 3) Would a 428 be that much better? I know "there's no substitute for
> cubes", but does the 428 have the low end torque that atruck needs?
>
> I plan on using this as a work truck: hauling and towing. The
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 12:53:12 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III

This is exactly why you always turn on every stinking piece of electrical
apparatus connected to the system to test it. I test both at fast idle and
idle. If You can hold 14v under these conditions, I guarantee you have
enough alternator for your application but if not you should be looking,
either for a new alternator (if regulator has been eliminated as the cause)
or an upgrade :-)

My son came up for a visit with a 91 tempo and had been having trouble with
it cutting out on the road. He had replaced the harness to the alternator
and the connection kept melting so we cleaned it up, re-crimped the
connections his brother had jerry rigged and got 14v at all modes of
operation. Dang thing still cut out on hime when he got it home but had no
trouble all the way back to Columbus, GA. His other brother (the mechanic
apprentice) put the correct terminals on it and it's working well now.

This is the same type of vehicle with the "smokey links", 4 of them as I
recall, all together near the start selenoid.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> slack. A so so alternator can still put out rated voltage
> under a low load
> condition. It's still bad.
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 13:22:00 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - NP435 & NP205 Questions

205 is 2:1 (actually 1.9899999 or some such)
435 low is about the same as reverse, other speeds are about like a 3 speed
but don't have the numbers right at hand :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Does anyone have at their fingertips the gear ratios of the
> NP435 Trans? I
> believe reverse is 6.68:1 and fourth is 1:1. What about gears 1,2,3??
> What about the 205's low range?
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 13:26:25 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - dual batteries

HA! CAUGHT YA! As we all know I never make misteeks so I caun pich on ya
:-)

How's that bronco running lately? I haven't done a thing to mine since I
fixed up the front end :-( Still runs well but getting awfully noisy and
the floor is falling out.....getting pretty close to a flintstone car....:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> >>>connect the bat in series (pos to pos, neg to neg)
> >
> >Pos to pos, neg to neg is parallel, not series.
>
> ok ok ok ok ok, yes, I made a mistake :-), one I cleared up,
>
> I must say though, for all the sticks being wielded on the
> topic of a term,
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 13:57:28 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - rebuilds and ridges

I rebuilt my first 460 with stock piston size but new pistons, forged to
take up the slack the cleanup hone created. It doesn't take much of a ridge
to damage the ring lands or break rings and score the cylinder wall (course
that will be at the top where it theoretically won't matter much). Reaming
the ridge just makes working on the engine much nicer when trying to push
pistons out etc. and has to be done before you can hone it in any case.

By chrome rings do you mean molly? There are chrome plated rings too and I
don't recommend them personally. I do like the moly rings. Virtually all
new manufacture engines have these I'm told?

I agree, if the bores are in decent shape, not tapered out of spec or more
than 0.004" out of round at any point in the cylinder and able to clean up
within the outside limits of the spec for the piston being used. Don't use
oversize rings and don't re-use stock pistons if they are worn or badly
galled. There are limits to refurbishing to stay within a range where you
actually can get your investment in time and money back. By going to
forged, new pistons I was able to maintain piston to cylinder clearance
within the spec for "that" type of piston but the stock, cast pistons would
have been too worn and stock, new cast pistons would have been out of spec
so not encouraged in that case. Can't really say how much larger clearances
would impact wear life or performance life etc. or how much is too much but
if you use the stock spec and keep it within a few thousandths of that,
certainly no more than 2 over spec (perhaps not even that much) you will be
happy with it, I'm reasonably sure :-)

Out of roundness is probably the most prohibitive thing to re-honing and
fitting pistons and seating the rings. When you hone, the hone will true up
the hole and take out the out of roundness but will leave "witness marks" in
the form of dark vertical streaks in the walls that the hone has not cleaned
up. If these are fairly shallow and the transition is fairly smooth they
may not cause any trouble but less is better and more is......:-( I had a
few fairly prominent streaks in mine but took a chance rather that take the
size out more to allow more piston movement and my rings did not seat as
quickly as I would have liked but they did eventually seat (molly rings).

If you have more time than money, use the old pistons, clean them up taking
much care with the ring grooves that you don't open them up etc., put some
rings in it and let 'er fly. If you have a little more money you may want
to get closer to a proper rebuild :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I agree with Gary on the cylinder ridge. I also feel that it
> is not required
> nor desirable to replace pistons and rebore on the first
> rebuild.

> very minute. I regularly used chrome rings, new rod and crank

> Sorry to ramble, but if you are simply trying to restore your
> engine to good
> operation and not a performance demon or some other obscure
> or unusual goal,
> don't waste the money on parts you don't need.
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 14:02:47 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 -

Racing rules do not allow batteries in the driver compartment. They are
usually relocated to the rear in the fuel compartment near the rear center
of the vehicle and with a 0.062" steel sheet welded solidly to the roll cage
and sheed metal creating a fully enclosed chamber for the fuel and battery,
separtated from the driver. Steel is specified because it holds up better
than aluminum in a fire.

I guess they figure that if you get hit hard enough to breach the tank the
battery won't matter much because sparks from the sliding vehicle will set
it off anyway :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> DO NOT I repeat DO NOT put a battery in the cab. They emit explosive
> hydrogen gas. One cigarette or any other spark and it is bye
> bye Travis.
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 14:43:20 -0400
From: joe delaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - driveshafts??

Group,

Is there any 1 piece rear driveshaft that i could use in my 68 4x4 to
replace the 2 piece Dr. shaft that i have now???Say something maybe from
77-79???I have a 390
in my truck and i know that was last seen in 76 or so....Or is my only
route
the 2 piece or custom???Also my trans is a c6 with a np205 t case
thanks
Joe

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 11:57:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum Guage tuning.

> Hello everyone.
> I recall a while ago someone (Azie?) wrote on how to tune a carb and time
> an engine using only a vacuum, gauge. Could I talk you into re-posting that
> info? Thanks
>

That would be our very own wish (Bill Hart), and can be found at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/tech/tuneup/tune.html
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 15:01:16 -0400
From: Greg Fisher
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gary - engine choices

Gary,
Not married yet, but this summer I'll be singing a different story. Is
this my nightmare waiting to happen? 8^) I picked up a Ford engine
exchange manual - I might learn something now. Yeah, I'd like to get a 428
but money always seems to put a serious dent in my plans, which probably
means no 460. 8^( I was looking thru the book and they mention a 410 Merc
engine that was a 390 block with the 428 crank. If I can't get a complete
428 but can get a 428 crank then this sounds like a good idea. Even more
stroke = more torque, right? Since this was used on cars, I'd assume that
it doesn't have a rpm problem. It's funny how you want to do something
different and it keeps getting bigger. Thanks again.

Oh, did you paint the front axle on your Bronco or powdercoat it? Either
way how has it held up?

Greg Fisher
'68 F150 longbed


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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 13:32:56 PDT
From: "White Wolf"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gasket/molding

Hey guys/gals.. Im just about ready to replace my broken-a** windshield on
my '66 F100.. I called around a little today and was give a quote for about
$225, only one problem, no gasket.

Ok. So does anyone know where I could get a GOOD/NEW gasket? .. also I
have the original chrome molding, can it be reused?



TIA

Corey Johnson

______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 13:59:27 PDT
From: "Mark Mcknight"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo

Yeah... I think i might... would they want it?


>From: Don Grossman
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo
>Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 08:21:58 -0700
>
>
>
>Mark Mcknight wrote:
>
> > If anyone wants to know the details of this unique little setup Mail me
>and
> > I'll send you directions!! ;o)
>
>How about you do a little write up and have it put under the tech section
>on
>FTE ;)
>
>--
>Don Grossman
>duckdon pacific.net
>99 Contour
>63 F-100 4x4
>43 GPW
>
>
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______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 17:16:51 -0400
From: Greg Fisher
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Put the Stereo article in the Tech Section

Sure. I would and I'm some others probably would also. Might not be as
popular as some others but people will still be interested.

Greg Fisher
'68 F150 longbed
>Yeah... I think i might... would they want it?
>
>
>>From: Don Grossman
>>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo
>>Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 08:21:58 -0700
>>
>>
>>
>>Mark Mcknight wrote:
>>
>> > If anyone wants to know the details of this unique little setup Mail me
>>and
>> > I'll send you directions!! ;o)
>>
>>How about you do a little write up and have it put under the tech section
>>on
>>FTE ;)
>>
>>--
>>Don Grossman
>>duckdon pacific.net
>>99 Contour
>>63 F-100 4x4
>>43 GPW
>>
>>
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>
>______________________________________________________
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>

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 14:42:23 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - More Questions about engine choices

> Thanks to Jason Kendrick, George Litton, Danger (I'd like to get that 460
> off you, if just fro future use, but too far away), Tom Hogan, and Gary
> Peters for your answers and the welcome to the list.
>
You're welcome. :0)

> I wasn't able to get
> this out the past weekend because I was a cr show, the Charlotte Auto
> Fair.
> Well, it seems the 390 route is the way to go. I guess I'll know whether
> or
> not I'll go 30 over. I have a few more questions now:
>
> 1) Since there are no 4V FE heads and it has been mentioned that "pocket
> porting" is a waste of time, would it still be beneficial to polish the
> bowls and port match to the intake?
>
There was a discussion about a week ago about how well an FE head flows.
Some of the later smog heads have "Thermactor bumps" for air injection
systems. These can usually be removed. I would be careful of any
reshaping of the port since it is so easy to ruin a good flowing port with a
modification that "looks like it should flow well".

> 2) Which way is the best way to go with the intake: find a cast iron one
> or
> just go with the Edelbrock performer 390?
>
2 years ago someone installed an Edelbrock manifold. I remember that he had
fitment problems and overall quality of casting problems and when he was
done he wasn't impressed with the gain over stock. Aluminum intake will
save you some weight on the front of the truck ... but it's a TRUCK!! One
other thing about having an aluminum manifold - your motor will now be a
bi-metal motor. There will be an electrolysis phenomena that occurs in the
cooling system. All motors with cast iron blocks and either aluminum heads
or intakes have this happening. Over the long term it will tend to errode
metal from the inside of the motor. It can be controlled by careful
maintenance of the coolant and your motor is not going to "dissolve" before
your eyes just something else to consider.

BTW just because there are no "4V" heads doesn't mean 4V carbs and intakes
were not used. I have a 4V holley stock on my '76 390.

> 3) Would a 428 be that much better? I know "there's no substitute for
> cubes", but does the 428 have the low end torque that atruck needs?
>
Most people who have a 428 in their truck have liked it. It has a larger
bore and a longer stroke. The longer stroke will contribute to better
torque production. The problem is finding a servicable block. One of the
hot rod magazines detailed a 428 build by boring a 390 out to the 428 bore
but that is a large change and the block must be carefully checked before
the boring process.

> I plan on using this as a work truck: hauling and towing. The thing I
> don't
> want tho, is having to go 55mph on the interstate(70mph) when I need to go
> somewhere.
>
My 390 with 3.00 rear gears will keep up with traffic well on the interstate
(70-75). Much more than that and the truck starts to "float" on the road.
I mean it seems light on the wheels and is more susceptible to wind gusts.
80 mph or over and I'm pretty much getting all the motor has to give but I
don't really want to go that fast anyway.

> Thanks again.
>
> Greg Fisher
> '68 F150 Longbed
> Rock Hill/Townville SC
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 14:51:28 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - More Questions about engine choices

- -----Original Message-----
From: Hogan, Tom
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Monday, September 20, 1999 2:44 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - More Questions about engine choices



>2 years ago someone installed an Edelbrock manifold. I remember that he
had
>fitment problems and overall quality of casting problems and when he was
>done he wasn't impressed with the gain over stock. Aluminum intake will
>save you some weight on the front of the truck ... but it's a TRUCK!! One
>other thing about having an aluminum manifold - your motor will now be a
>bi-metal motor. There will be an electrolysis phenomena that occurs in the
>cooling system. All motors with cast iron blocks and either aluminum heads
>or intakes have this happening. Over the long term it will tend to errode
>metal from the inside of the motor. It can be controlled by careful
>maintenance of the coolant and your motor is not going to "dissolve" before
>your eyes just something else to consider.
>


Unless you have a dry manifold like the M series...


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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 18:04:59 -0400
From: Greg Fisher
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tom - Any knowledge of the Merc 410 ci?

Thanks again for the input, Tom. I bought a Ford exchange manual and they
had a writeup about the Merc 410 motor which was a 390 block with the 428
crank. The longer stroke should provide even more torque. I wasn't looking
at the aluminum intake for weight savings, just for the fact that I've seen
2 at swap meets but no cast 4V intakes yet. I'm sure I'll find one soon. I
saw the 390 to 428 article you talked about. Since I found out about the
390 or 410 changeover, I definitely won't be doing that.

Greg Fisher
'68 F150 Longbed
Rock Hill/Townville SC

>You're welcome. :0)
>There was a discussion about a week ago about how well an FE head flows.
>Some of the later smog heads have "Thermactor bumps" for air injection
>systems. These can usually be removed. I would be careful of any
>reshaping of the port since it is so easy to ruin a good flowing port with a
>modification that "looks like it should flow well".
>2 years ago someone installed an Edelbrock manifold. I remember that he had
>fitment problems and overall quality of casting problems and when he was
>done he wasn't impressed with the gain over stock. Aluminum intake will
>save you some weight on the front of the truck ... but it's a TRUCK!! One
>other thing about having an aluminum manifold - your motor will now be a
>bi-metal motor. There will be an electrolysis phenomena that occurs in the
>cooling system. All motors with cast iron blocks and either aluminum heads
>or intakes have this happening. Over the long term it will tend to errode
>metal from the inside of the motor. It can be controlled by careful
>maintenance of the coolant and your motor is not going to "dissolve" before
>your eyes just something else to consider.
>BTW just because there are no "4V" heads doesn't mean 4V carbs and intakes
>were not used. I have a 4V holley stock on my '76 390.
>Most people who have a 428 in their truck have liked it. It has a larger
>bore and a longer stroke. The longer stroke will contribute to better
>torque production. The problem is finding a servicable block. One of the
>hot rod magazines detailed a 428 build by boring a 390 out to the 428 bore
>but that is a large change and the block must be carefully checked before
>the boring process.
>My 390 with 3.00 rear gears will keep up with traffic well on the interstate
>(70-75). Much more than that and the truck starts to "float" on the road.
>I mean it seems light on the wheels and is more susceptible to wind gusts.
>80 mph or over and I'm pretty much getting all the motor has to give but I
>don't really want to go that fast anyway.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 18:40:23 -0700
From: "O'Connor"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 Has Ugly Dashpad

Hi,
I just went to the Charlotte Motor Speedway on Saturday for a car/swapmeet
kind of thing. I saw two ulturnatives to a cracked/ugly dashpad for 65 &
66's. First, Dennis Carpenter was selling new reproduction pads for $450.
There Phone number is 704-786-8139 and their web site is
www.dennis-carpenter.com. Second, I saw a 66 that was completely redone
including the dash. This guy put a filler on the cracks and then covered
the pad with a sweed material that he bought at a fabrick store. He used a
3M adhesive and tucked the ends around and down underneath. He was able to
schuplture the tweed around the contures as if it was moulded from the
factory. He also did the headliner, visors and the sidewalls where the air
vents were. It was very attractive. Any questions?
Tim
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 15:48:10 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Gasket/molding

Where do you live, Corey?

Thanks for your message at 01:32 PM 9/20/99 PDT, White Wolf. Your message was:
>Hey guys/gals.. Im just about ready to replace my broken-a** windshield on
>my '66 F100.. I called around a little today and was give a quote for about
>$225, only one problem, no gasket.
>
> Ok. So does anyone know where I could get a GOOD/NEW gasket? .. also I
>have the original chrome molding, can it be reused?
>
>
>
> TIA
>
>Corey Johnson
>
>______________________________________________________
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
Dennis L. Pearson

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson.index.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/dlp.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 15:49:28 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo

Thanks for your message at 01:59 PM 9/20/99 PDT, Mark Mcknight. Your
message was:
>Yeah... I think i might... would they want it?

They are we (actually, Ken).


Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 15:51:29 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - More Questions about engine choices

Thanks for your message at 02:51 PM 9/20/99 -0700, Bill Beyer. Your message
was:
>
>>other thing about having an aluminum manifold - your motor will now be a
>>bi-metal motor. There will be an electrolysis phenomena that occurs in the
>>cooling system. All motors with cast iron blocks and either aluminum heads
>>or intakes have this happening. Over the long term it will tend to errode
>>metal from the inside of the motor. It can be controlled by careful
>>maintenance of the coolant and your motor is not going to "dissolve" before
>>your eyes just something else to consider.
>>
>
>
>Unless you have a dry manifold like the M series...
Or the Cleveland...


Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 15:54:38 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 Has Ugly Dashpad

Thanks for your message at 06:40 PM 9/20/99 -0700, O'Connor. Your message was:
Second, I saw a 66 that was completely redone
>including the dash. This guy put a filler on the cracks and then covered
>the pad with a sweed material that he bought at a fabrick store. He used a
>3M adhesive and tucked the ends around and down underneath. He was able to
>schuplture the tweed around the contures as if it was moulded from the
>factory.

Sweed Tweed? Cool!
...but are you sure it wasn't Norwegian?


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 20:29:09 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum Guage tuning.

In a message dated 9/20/99 12:00:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time, patb sonic.net
writes:

>

Muchos gracias mi Amigo.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 18:10:42 -0700
From: Carey & Norm
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 66 has ugly dash

Some companies do make the dash pads for mid-sixties era trucks. I believe
Autokrafters lists them, but they are very expensive, like $350. to $600. I just
moved, so I don't have my latest catalog handy, but I believe their website is
auto krafters. com . Sometimes, you can get lucky in the yards. My buddy and I
recently found one on a '65 in very good shape that is now on my '65 (I didn't
have one). It has one little crack in it (which I accidently put in it trying to
carefully remove it). Otherwise, it was stiff, but in good shape. It cleaned up
very well; a tad dull,but not faded. A couple weeks or so later, we found
another one in another yard in equal condition. Usually they're pretty cracked
up, but sometimes you can get lucky.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 21:17:28 -0400
From: Greg Fisher
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79 - 66 Has Ugly Dashpad

Tim,
I was there Saturday and Sunday and I didn't see that one. Where was it?
Did you get any pics?

Greg Fisher
'68 Ford F150

>Hi,
>I just went to the Charlotte Motor Speedway on Saturday for a car/swapmeet
>kind of thing. I saw two ulturnatives to a cracked/ugly dashpad for 65 &
>66's. First, Dennis Carpenter was selling new reproduction pads for $450.
>There Phone number is 704-786-8139 and their web site is
>www.dennis-carpenter.com. Second, I saw a 66 that was completely redone....


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