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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #337
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61-79-list-digest Monday, September 20 1999 Volume 03 : Number 337



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 bronco options
Re: FTE 61-79 - towing with a Bronco
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pressure switch.
FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C
Re: FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
Re: FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C
FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III
FTE 61-79 - New advice
FTE 61-79 - Decipher Dana diff. tag
FTE 61-79 - In CA
Re: FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C
Re: FTE 61-79 - Decipher Dana diff. tag
RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 352 and C6 Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices
RE: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III
Re: FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
FTE 61-79 - Stereo
Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo
Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo
Re: FTE 61-79 - My New '71 f100!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo
FTE 61-79 - 66 has Ugly Dash
FTE 61-79 - Vacuum Guage tuning.

=======================================================================

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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 12:02:19
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 bronco options

>> As some of you know I have a 78 bronco which I purchased a year ago. The
>> longer I have it, the more I find out - but also the more questions get
>> raised. It says it is a "custom" which is the basic model. But it does have
>> two-tone,
>
>MIne did also, only option the original owner seemed to get.

That's too bad .. most options don't really add all THAT much to the truck
but they do make it look nice. I wonder how expensive they were, usually
they make a lot of money on the options.

>> all the moldings,
>Comes with two tone paint.

Ah yeah it would look weird without I guess.. I did notice they have
different patterns for the two-tone, some have the doors white to the top
and some have red doors (like mine)

>> carpet,
>Not sure on that one, mine had bacl mat originally.

It may not be original, the interior is red and the carpet is green. It
does seem to be the right mold though, it fits tight.

>> chrome bumpers,
>Not sure on that one either?

I'm not sure how to tell .. chrome is chrome, it's not like the carpet
where they have different colors.

>>automatic transmission
>That was optional on any model.

I love automatics..

>> sunscreens with clips,
>????

Was mentioned in that html document as a XLT-only option. I'm sure those
can be transplanted too though..

>>front and rear sway (stabilizer) bar, shocks,
>Also optional on custom.

Also rare options, if you can't see it people don't seem to want it; I have
been looking for some connecting rods but couldn't find them in the junk
yards. I ended up restoring my own ones (that was the better option anyway).

>
>See
>
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.Off-Road.com/4x4web/ford/bigbroncos/faq.html
>
>For a little more info. I also have a copy of the original 78 Bronco
>Brochure.

Cool, thanks.. great site!

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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 12:55:03
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - towing with a Bronco

>> >becoming uncontrollable with his boat, an 18 foot old, heavy monster in
tow.
>> >My crew cab, OTOH would pull it all day with no problems. Just something
>> >else to think about....
>
> I regularly tow my 21 ft boat with no handling problems whatsoever.
>I'd say it's pushing 5000 lbs with trailer, gas and gear. Speeds of 65+
>are no problem on flat terrain with stock 351M.

When I go four wheeling I usually don't stay on flat terrain ;-) but hey, I
don't really need to go 65 mph anyway..

> Last week, I towed another 79 Bronc on a heavy duty tandum trailer.
>
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/DILYSI/ontrailer.jpg

Whoa, those are two *nice* bronco's, both yours?? I like the blue-white
two-tone. Here check mine out at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://bas.8m.com/ (hope it works, the
server seemed to be down a few minutes ago)

>Could not get over 55 MPH, but towing was not that bad. Brakes totally
>sucked as trailer brakes were not working. Total trailer weight was 7300
>lbs.

The brakes aren't all that good anyway, with the bigger tires and some dirt
on the discs the brakes have trouble locking up.

On the bigbronco's list was a guy who claimed to have a 572 CID engine ..
but no email address or pictures to support it. That would be one h#ll of
an engine!

There was also a person with a 514, check
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=231

There is one picture where he is smoking his 36" tires ;-)



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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 13:21:31
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pressure switch.

>I have been slowly working on an on board compressor between other
>projects over the last few months, and I'm almost there. I've got the
>pump installed, I've got a tank at my uncle's, I'll get the fittings and
>air lines from work, but I'm having some difficulty with the pressure
>switch. This seems like it should be simple, but I can't find one. I

I got one for my setup at the Grangers, they're about $20 for one with a
four-port manifold and an unloader valve. It has a double relay (you only
need one), so it just turns the compressor (clutch) on and off. Works like
a charm. Check www.granger.com

Bas.


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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 07:14:08 -0700
From: "Christeen Bradley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C

Hello all,

I just read Gary's opinion of the Cleveland and wanted to know why it's so
low??? I have a 351C 2v that has over 100K on a rebuild in which it was
bored out .030. I haven't done a thing to the motor yet and can still tow
4,000 uphill with some effort but not much (I have to downshift into 3rd on
the steeper hills). It's been a good little work horse and I can still have
fun playing with the ch*vy's on the weekend. Just my opinion :-)

Gary wrote:
"Unless you just want the status of owning a Cleveland and saying to your
buddies "I have a Cleveland in my truck" you DON'T WANT A CLEVELAND in your
truck with 4v heads unless all you want to do is drag race "

Scott
1966 F-100 Shortbox 351C

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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 10:49:16 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C

i think gary is refering to the 4v cleveland engines,,,,the heads flow
ALOT,,,great for racing and the like but not good on prolonged street duty.
The 2v heads like you have work great on the street, I know tons of people
whove used 2v clevelands for daily drivers and never had problems with
anything. Just think of it like this,,,,you have a ton of porting polishing
and make the valves bigger on a SBC head. wouldnt run that on the street
right? A stock 351C 4v head is about the eqivelant to a 350 chevy head with
1000 bucks worth of machining.

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
members.aol.com/ianboss69/page/home.htm
True Blue Ford Blue
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 10:53:15 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

In a message dated 9/18/99 3:16:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bronco78 mosquitonet.com writes:

>

Technical Point, This is a Parallel Connection. Series would be bat 1 Neg to
to Bat 2 Pos with vehicle connections made at Bat 1 Pos & Bat 2 Neg. Total
output would be approx 24 volt, not something you want for today's car/truck.


My $1.295 worth

George
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 10:59:25 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

As another alternative (depending upon your desired uses for the second
battery) you can install a battery isolator. Ive seen em available in parts
stores like Autozone. Basically they allow you to connect the batteries in
parallel, but keeps them isolated from each other. One can provide the truck
starting power while the other can run power accessories etc w/o fear of
running down the starting battery. No switches to flip when charging either
as the isolator splits the alternator charging current to each battery.
Check it out. Simple to instal with some obvious bennies over plain ol
parallel wired batteries.

George

In a message dated 9/18/99 5:53:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bronco78 mosquitonet.com writes:


well, ya but keep in mind, batteries are just storage devices. Your OEM Alt
was designed to "fill" one bat, you ask it to recharge 2 and it will do so,
but not as quickly. You probable have a 40~70 amp alt. It will do the job,
just dont expect it to "fill" both drained bat in the same time it will
recharge your one stock one. >>
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 11:10:36 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

In a message dated 09/19/1999 3:03:30 PM !!!First Boot!!!, GMontgo930 aol.com
writes:


battery) you can install a battery isolator. Ive seen em available in parts
stores like Autozone. Basically they allow you to connect the batteries in
parallel, but keeps them isolated from each other. One can provide the truck
starting power while the other can run power accessories etc w/o fear of
running down the starting battery. No switches to flip when charging either
as the isolator splits the alternator charging current to each battery.
Check it out. Simple to instal with some obvious bennies over plain ol
parallel wired batteries. >>

This sounds like something I may wanna do when I get a sport bar w/ offroad
lights, but where do ya put the second battery??
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 11:15:40 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C

I think his biggest objections to the cleveland was with the 4 bbl heads in a
street car/truck. Sure the big vales of those heads let it make gobs of
power but also hurt street performance down low (where you really want it
anyway). That's the biggest thing I can think of.

George

In a message dated 9/19/99 10:21:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
moments uswest.net writes:


I just read Gary's opinion of the Cleveland and wanted to know why it's so
low??? I have a 351C 2v that has over 100K on a rebuild in which it was
bored out .030. I haven't done a thing to the motor yet and can still tow
4,000 uphill with some effort but not much (I have to downshift into 3rd on
the steeper hills). It's been a good little work horse and I can still have
fun playing with the ch*vy's on the weekend. Just my opinion :-)

Gary wrote:
"Unless you just want the status of owning a Cleveland and saying to your
buddies "I have a Cleveland in my truck" you DON'T WANT A CLEVELAND in your
truck with 4v heads unless all you want to do is drag race "
>>
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 08:28:50 -0700
From: "Scott Jensen"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III

I see a few misconceptions about this whole charging thing. A 12 volt
battery is just a energy storage device, and like all batteries, takes a
few more volts than 12 to charge.

All the electrical stuff on your rig is engineered to run at 14-15 volts;
however, it will run at 12 volts. I figure the reason they use a 12 volt
battery is so it will charge while your truck is running. A 14 volt battery
won't charge well at 14 volts.

Fans, lights and coils draw current. When enough current is there, they
work. We can't push current into them, they pull it. Say you turn your
lights on and they draw more or less, 3 amps. Your voltage shouldn't change
much, because your lights run on current. Not wattage, current. Wattage is
just the relationship between current and voltage. Wattage is good for
rating things. Anyway, our lights are drawing 3 amps, ( or 3 amps x 14
volts = 42 watts). They are happy, and nice and bright if the headlight
relay mod was done to them. Now, if the current is limited for some reason,
like because of the stock headlight wiring, they will be dimmer. Voltage
will still be the same. Sadly, the stock headlight wires are small gauge
and can't carry the current. Small wires have more resistance to current
than big wires. The headlights are still asking for the current, but since
the wires can't handle it, the current is changed into another form of
energy, heat.

When I first start my truck, the starter draws quite a bit of current,
hense the big wires going to it. The battery likes to stay at its rated
potential so it draws current from the alternator. The closer it gets to
it's potential, the less current it draws. It always draws some current,
because it has a small internal resistance, (ever notice the gauge on your
battery charger never drops to 0?).

The alternator supplies current to everything. It doesn't push it out, just
gives it out when it's asked. Start the engine and the battery supplies the
initial current to the starter and coil. After starting the alt. takes
over. If I have a 45 amp Alt. and my truck is asking for 10 amps, the alt.
is giving out 10 amps. Turn on my lights and they ask for 3 amps, the alt.
is giving out 13 amps. Turn on my fan, it asks for more. Turn on everything
your truck has and the alt. should be able to supply the current to run it.
Unless the alt. has problems. Then the truck might ask for 30 amps, but the
alt. might only be able to give 25, so it only gives 25. At this point the
battery helps out the alternator by supplying the lacking current. But it
needs current too, so it goes dead after a while. If the alt. is giving out
little or no current, the battery dies quick. If the alt. is just starting
to go bad, it take a little longer. Once the current rating for the alt.
and the battery is surpassed, the voltage starts to drop. So you need to
fix it to keep the battery from working so hard. If your wiring
connections, regulator and battery are all good, replace the alternator.

I know from the first post that the alternator had been replaced. It still
might not be good. If I was rebuilding alternators and had a big box full
of them waiting for me, I might be tempted to rush it. That's why there's
warranties. I've had brand new rebuilts go bad quick, as I imagine others
here have, too. (If you're still awake reading this.)

I've had the best luck with alt. by going to the yard and finding one
that's never been rebuilt. Look at the numbers stamped on the case, if it's
still clean and not sandblasted, chances are it's a virgin. Take it to a
automotive electrical shop and ask them to rebuild it. It's funny how
quality improves when a signature is involved. I've never met the Pep Boys,
but I know Joe at Joes' Electric.

BTW...I like to keep a tow rope in the garage, so when a buddy breaks down
in my driveway, I can tow him home and then offer advise over a cold one.

Just my 0.05 on this one..:)

Scott
76 F100 4x4


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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 11:33:48 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New advice

Daniel R. Olinick bought a 71 F-100, and was
looking for some newbie advice...

Daniel, I was in the same boat just a few years ago. I honestly didn't know
much about auto mechanics aside from changing oil. Like most drivers, as
long as the car/truck started and drove, I wasn't concerned with the
details of how it did it. But then I because curious and really wanted to
learn, so I just went about bought a '61 Falcon. It's a perfect car for
learning on because everything is so easy to identify and work on -- and
your truck is not much different. If you have some mechanical ability, it's
not hard to learn.

Try to get a Ford shop manual for the truck. Also, a Haynes manual, or
similar aftermarket shop guide is helpful to learn the various systems and
diagnosis steps. Don't be afraid to ask questions.

If your truck is pulling to the side when braking, it is probably not the
MC, but the problem is in one of the sides. It could be a leaky/stuck wheel
cylinder, worn brake pads. On an old truck that you are unsure of the
history, you should really pull all the drums and check your brakes
thoroughly. I had to perform a full brake overhaul (new MC, new wheel
cylinders, brake shoes, turn drums, new hoses and hard lines) on both my
Falcon sedan and van -- and the van had been a daily driver for the
previous owner. It was unsafe. Two drums were out of spec thickness and
needed to be trashed. Luckily, I found some good ones at a junkyard.
Anyway, I highly recommend a full brake system overhaul.

The rust is going to be a problem. If you want to keep the truck forever,
you need to remove ALL of that rust and replace with fresh metal, but
that's not easy. The "easier" solution, which is less permanent, is to
scrape off all the rust and treat with a rust converter like POR-15,
Corroless, or Extend. This doesn't get the rust you can't see (trapped in
between panels), but it stops the rust from spreading. Paint does NOT stop
rust, it just covers it from sight, but it keeps on going.

I've got to get rolling today, but hopefully that will get you started. If
you have any questions, feel free to ask. Good luck with your truck and
enjoy it.

- -don

- --
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles


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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 12:40:14 -0500
From: kimchi webcombo.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Decipher Dana diff. tag

I ~unearthed~ the rear diff. tag on my '78 F-250 SuperCab 2WD,
and I've deciphered some of what is on the tag -
could anyone fill in the rest? Much appreciated!

___________________________________
[ ]
[ 3.31 D8TA LC ]
[ ]
[ O O ]
[ ]
[ 603899-3 ]
[___________________________________]


OK - I know that it is a 3.31 ratio, and the Dana Part # is 603899-3,
but I need help with the D8TA and LC. (Does the L in LC indicate
limited slip? If so, what significance does the C have?)

I'm 99.9% sure that this is a Dana 61-2 (according to the data I have
located in my 1978 Ford Truck Shop Manual).

Geoff

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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 12:17:35 -0600
From: William A Whited
Subject: FTE 61-79 - In CA

Hey is anybody in the Sacramento area? The new job
has me flying around alot I'll get in Monday afternoon
and be in town till friday Morning. They have us
staying at the Governor's Inn. Drop me a line tonight
or next week at f10074 hotmail.com.

- --
William A Whited
74 F100 RANGER SUPERCAB 390
77 F150 CUSTOM 460
SEMPER FI


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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 13:44:52 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C

I just got my 351C-2V rebuilt, all I've gotta do is get the exhaust
together, What does the list think about flowmasters?
I couldn't get headers to fit, does anyone know of a manufacturer?

Mike in Burien
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 22:28:50 +0200
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Decipher Dana diff. tag

D8TA

D = decade, 70ties
8 = specific year,,, 8, in this case it means 1978
T = Truck
A = wharehouse location....


Bill Brox



- ----------
> From: kimchi webcombo.net
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Decipher Dana diff. tag
> Date: 19. september 1999 19:40
>
> I ~unearthed~ the rear diff. tag on my '78 F-250 SuperCab 2WD,
> and I've deciphered some of what is on the tag -
> could anyone fill in the rest? Much appreciated!
>
> ___________________________________
> [ ]
> [ 3.31 D8TA LC ]
> [ ]
> [ O O ]
> [ ]
> [ 603899-3 ]
> [___________________________________]
>
>
> OK - I know that it is a 3.31 ratio, and the Dana Part # is 603899-3,
> but I need help with the D8TA and LC. (Does the L in LC indicate
> limited slip? If so, what significance does the C have?)
>
> I'm 99.9% sure that this is a Dana 61-2 (according to the data I have
> located in my 1978 Ford Truck Shop Manual).
>
> Geoff
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 15:26:52 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 352 and C6 Question

I have a c6 on my 390 so it should bolt up to yours.

Tom H

> ----------
> From: Brian Forbes[SMTP:rbforbes ro.com]
> Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 18, 1999 2:30 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 65 352 and C6 Question
>
> Hey,
>
> Will my 352 bolt up to a C6? I'm considering swapping out my NP435 for a
> C6.
>
> Brian
> Huntsville, Al
> 65 F100 240
> 65 F100 352 Custom Cab Camper Special
> 66 F100 302 Custom in Progress
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 15:26:51 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices

Hi Greg, welcome to the list.

> Hi. New to list. Have a question. I have a '68 F100 longbed that my
> Grandfather bought new. Has 2V 360/C6. The 360 could use a rebuild. The
> options I've been considering are:
> 1) rebuild the 360 with 4V and a cam that get more from it. Will 4V heads
> be needed to match the new intake?
>
No.

> 2) Going to 390. Can the 360 be bored and stroked to make it a 390 or is
> this a waste of time and should I just find a 390 block.
>
The 390 and 360 block are the same. You would just need the 390 crank,
rods, and pistons. A very worth while swap.

> 3) My Dad has 2 '70 2V 351C. Rebuild one of these, but change to 4V. New
> heads also? I know Edlebrock makes an intake to use a 4 barrel carb with 2
> barrel heads, but would the switch to the 4 barrel carb heads be better?
>
I'm not too familiar with the 351C. Most people say the 4V heads have much
too large a port to work well on the street. One thing I can tell you is
that the 351C will require a new transmission. The one you have on the 360
will not bolt up to the 351. Factor that cost in with your decision.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Greg Fisher
> '68 F100 longbed
>
>
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 15:33:22 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

The STOCK Ford (yes Ford did offer this from the factory) was on the
driver's fender.

Tom H

> ----------
> From: Bad4dFilly aol.com[SMTP:Bad4dFilly aol.com]
> Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Sunday, September 19, 1999 11:10 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
>
> In a message dated 09/19/1999 3:03:30 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
> GMontgo930 aol.com
> writes:
>
>
>
> battery) you can install a battery isolator. Ive seen em available in
> parts
> stores like Autozone. Basically they allow you to connect the batteries
> in
> parallel, but keeps them isolated from each other. One can provide the
> truck
> starting power while the other can run power accessories etc w/o fear of
> running down the starting battery. No switches to flip when charging
> either
> as the isolator splits the alternator charging current to each battery.
> Check it out. Simple to instal with some obvious bennies over plain ol
> parallel wired batteries. >>
>
> This sounds like something I may wanna do when I get a sport bar w/
> offroad
> lights, but where do ya put the second battery??
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 18:49:35 EDT
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

i was thinking on the truck i could get a set of those tractor batterys that
are thin but have lots of juice to em. and im myt car i would just run wires
to the trunk that would be the easyiest of course if there is room in the cab
that might be a place to go to
Travis
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 15:52:08 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging III

Scott,
I agree with all you said but there is one point of clarification I would
like to add.

> ----------

> Fans, lights and coils draw current. When enough current is there, they
> work. We can't push current into them, they pull it. Say you turn your
> lights on and they draw more or less, 3 amps. Your voltage shouldn't
> change
> much, because your lights run on current. Not wattage, current. Wattage is
> just the relationship between current and voltage. Wattage is good for
> rating things. Anyway, our lights are drawing 3 amps, ( or 3 amps x 14
> volts = 42 watts). They are happy, and nice and bright if the headlight
> relay mod was done to them. Now, if the current is limited for some
> reason,
> like because of the stock headlight wiring, they will be dimmer. Voltage
> will still be the same. Sadly, the stock headlight wires are small gauge
> and can't carry the current. Small wires have more resistance to current
> than big wires. The headlights are still asking for the current, but since
> the wires can't handle it, the current is changed into another form of
> energy, heat.
>

The voltage will be the same at the input to the system (12 -14V).
In this case with small diameter wires in comparison to large wires we have
a voltage divider circuit with the wires and lamps being the resistors.
With smaller wires as you describe there is more resistance and more voltage
is dropped across the wires than the lamps. With less voltage (electrical
pressure) to push the current the lamps will draw less current. Since they
draw less current they glow dimmer. Any electrical device will draw a
certain amount of current for a given voltage hence its power rating
(power=current X Voltage) Also Volts=current X resistance. Most devices
have fixed resistance so if you vary either current or volts the other will
change as well. Drop the voltage and the current draw will also drop.

BTW: Watts is power. Power is what we buy. More power does work
faster. You want to move your truck faster it requires more power and costs
you more money.

Tom H.
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 17:02:54 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C

Try these 2 places. Sanderson probably has some headers that work right out
of the box.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordpowertrain.com/openingall.htm

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson8.htm


"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Pacheco
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, September 19, 1999 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - What's wrong with the big C


>I just got my 351C-2V rebuilt, all I've gotta do is get the exhaust
>together, What does the list think about flowmasters?
>I couldn't get headers to fit, does anyone know of a manufacturer?
>



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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 22:05:25 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

For a reference, if anyone can find a Camper Special or Super Camper Special,
these trucks all have the dual battery setup. Ive got it on Tweety. It
comes with the isolater, and a separate relay so that the battery can only be
used with the key on. Also, the Haynes book for 73-79 F-series has a diagram
for this. Could come in handy for anyone looking to do a conversion. Its a
worthwhile investment. I run the dual batteries just for piece of mind. And
on more thanone occasion Ive been able to rescue someone with a dead battery
by just tossing my spare in.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 19:14:34 PDT
From: "Mark Mcknight"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stereo

Sorry to bug you guys but do ya'll know how to make a voltage regulator. I
am setting up a single disc player in my truck using a computer CD rom. Any
help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanx
Mark
94' m*zda B-3000
91 M*zda MPV
78' Ford F-100 2wd
76' Ford F-250 4wd (Parts)
46' G*C 3/4 Ton 2wd

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 22:29:08 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo

In a message dated 9/19/99 10:22:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
chicken521 hotmail.com writes:


I
am setting up a single disc player in my truck using a computer CD rom. Any
help would be greatly appreciated. >>


The easiest thing to do is goto Radio Shack. They have a number of regulators
and other components to make you voltage regulator module (I presume you're
going after both the 12v & the 5v). The details are on the regulator packages!

Let me know how it turns out. Ive got a number of old PC CD Roms that could
be reincarnated as audio CD players.

George
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 19:38:51 PDT
From: "Mark Mcknight"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo

Well I went and I tried it. I had an old resistor around and it happened to
be the one I wanted! bonus! works great. I hooked it all up and mounted the
rom to the underside of the dash (Under the ashtray) and it worked great!
I'm just a bit worryed about the power. from my battery when its sitting.
If anyone wants to know the details of this unique little setup Mail me and
I'll send you directions!! ;o)


>From: GMontgo930 aol.com
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo
>Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 22:29:08 EDT
>
>In a message dated 9/19/99 10:22:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>chicken521 hotmail.com writes:
>
>
>I
> am setting up a single disc player in my truck using a computer CD rom.
>Any
> help would be greatly appreciated. >>
>
>
>The easiest thing to do is goto Radio Shack. They have a number of
>regulators
>and other components to make you voltage regulator module (I presume you're
>going after both the 12v & the 5v). The details are on the regulator
>packages!
>
>Let me know how it turns out. Ive got a number of old PC CD Roms that could
>be reincarnated as audio CD players.
>
>George
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

______________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 20:00:25 -0700
From: Don or Bub
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - My New '71 f100!

are you sure that you don't have a 302

Daniel R. Olinick wrote:
>
> HI, I recently purchased a 1971 Ford F100. It is white.
> It is a longbed. It has a three speed manual transmission
> and a v8 engine I believe to be a 360. It is in excellent condition
> and I plan to improve it as best I can. I hope this is the right place
> for me to ask my questions because I am a newbie owner of a
> classic ford truck. I am 26 years old and live in San Antonio, TX.
> My father owned a 71 blue ford truck(or possibly newer). I am confused
> because
> I was 11 years old when I last saw the blue ford and my ford seems a lot
> different. For example my dad's truck didn't have the piece of trim
> attached to
> the front of the hood I don't think. Anyway I can't remember.
>
> What I need now is a few lessons on the history of the ford pick up truck.
> My truck needs a lot of work and I don't know how to fix the things myself.
> So I figure I need to learn or take it to a shop or one of my uncles or a
> freind
> of a freind. Brakes are bad. It might be the master cylinder. One rear
> tire
> will always lock up if I hit the brake hard enough. I have been told the
> front
> end ball joints and stuff are worn out not to mention the play in the
> steering
> wheel. I don't like the way the truck is riding. I need to find out if
> the springs
> and or shocks are worn out. Well, I need to get another seat or
> fix/replace springs
> in the seat.
>
> I bought the truck after seeing it at a small used car lot. I have been
> sort of looking
> for another truck for a while now. I hadn't been too serious but I had to
> stop and take
> a closer look. The body has quite a lot of rust spots which I am worried
> about. There
> are some small rusted through places in the bottom of the doors and one on
> the right
> fender. I can tell the truck had some minor body work and a paint job but I
> don't know
> how long ago. The truck bed is mostly brown with rust. I want to clean up
> the bed and
> put a rust blocker or paint on bedliner if it will help stop the rust.
>
> I believe the engine is good. I haven't been able to contact the previous
> owner/owners
> to find out about any replacement or overhauls. It cruises at 50 or 60 or
> 70 (maybe 80)
> very well. It has a lot of pick up. I believe I would have no trouble
> cranking her up to
> 100 or more If I wanted to but that's with no load(just me(264) and the
> spare tire.
> It idles rough when cold and the engine will die if I don't give it some
> gas.
> Anyway, I would appreciate any info on.
>
> I will put up some scans on my website soon.
>
> Daniel R. Olinick (dolinick earthlink.net)
>
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 20:30:09 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stereo....


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