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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #336
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61-79-list-digest Sunday, September 19 1999 Volume 03 : Number 336



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Still not charging III
[none]
FTE 61-79 - "Secret" VIN number on frame?
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Still not charging III
RE: FTE 61-79 - still not starting
FTE 61-79 - Carrier bearing mount
FTE 61-79 - Old (40s-50s) Wrecker boom info wanted
FTE 61-79 - Re: still not starting
FTE 61-79 - 360 to 390
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pressure switch.
Re: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - still not starting
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
FTE 61-79 - Safety Switch
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup
FTE 61-79 - My New '71 f100!
FTE 61-79 - Trans Questions
FTE 61-79 - Pickup Box
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

=======================================================================

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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 06:55:29 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices

Unless you just want the status of owning a cleveland and saying to your
buddies "I have a Cleveland in my truck" you DON'T WANT A CLEVELAND in your
truck with 4v heads unless all you want to do is drag race and then you
would be better served with a 460 :-)

Your easiest, cheapest and most satisfying choice will be to upgrade to the
390 spec with your current parts or find a 428 in good shape to bolt in.
PAW has many engine kits and may have the 428 in kit form, not sure. 460's
are about $1800 in kit form.

Next easiest and most satisfying is the 460 swap.

Small block should be reserved for those who were brought up believing that
all things are possible with a small block and nothing more is needed :-)
You can make lots of HP with a small block but the same money and work
applied to a big block will reap much greater rewards when you step on the
gas :-)

If I had a truck already set up for the FE, I would look for a 428 and if
that was not possible in my area for a reasonable price I would rebuild to
390 specs. The cleveland would not even be an option (I'd take an I-6 first
:-)) and the 460 would be my third choice in your case.

I've had all but the 428 in a vehicle and can tell you the above is very
real. If you have a 360 you may as well have a 390 and have the same
economy but more power. FE's are not about economy in any case any more
than the "M" blocks are. The 460 now......that's a whole nuther smoke :-)))

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Hi. New to list. Have a question. I have a '68 F100 longbed that my
> Grandfather bought new. Has 2V 360/C6. The 360 could use a
> rebuild. The
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 07:19:32 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Still not charging III

I hate to be the perveyor of bad news but if you are only getting 12.5 v at
the battery with engine running it isn't fixed. You should be able to idle
up to about 2k rpm and turn every stinking accessory on in your truck and
still see 14v if it's doing it's job. Lead/acid batterys have a resistance
to charging of about 2v. If you don't charge with a voltage higher than the
battery's threshold it will not charge.

Yes, the alternator will run everything but the battery will not charge so
eventually you will get in and it won't start, again :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> went out. The truck still shows 12.5 volts at the battery when
> running. I flipped the headlights on, and the voltage stayed around
> 12.5 volts. At this point I'm going to conclude it's fixed.
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 04:32:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill Ballinger
Subject: [none]

There have been few pistons I've seen with more than
80,000 miles on them that were worth putting back in.
If you take a jewelers glass and look athe ring lands
of the piston after cleaning, you'll notice they are
wavy, and will likely be gouged up from cleaning, or
if they've been ground by a cretain type of cleaner,
they will be wider than they were intended to be when
new. A large part of what constitutes ring seal is
the relationship of the bottom of the ring to the land
on the piston. If the land is mated well to the ring,
the piston will go further down in the bore in the
compression stroke with out pulling away and allowing
the gasses to go into the crankcase(blow-down, which
is also known as part of a condition called blow-by).


The concentricity of the cylinder and the mating of
the ring to the cylinder is imprtant, but a wavy ring
land (or carboned up) on a used piston is what will
most of the time cause you to have blow by. Most
modern rings (esp. moly filled)seat in 30 minutes.
That's why start up is so important.

$1500 isn't bad at all if you are getting good parts
and machine work. You'll be lucky to get much of a
5.0 for much less. Though I did see a complet engine
advertised from Ford Motorsports based on the '97 5.8
FI engine it shows it complete from throttle body to
oil-pan for $2195. That's an exceptional value
considering you get new injectors and everything.

I'm putting everything in this one message, as I don't
get a much time to write as I usually do. I'm here in
Springdal AR training with JB Hunt, and will be for
the next two weeks. It's tough being away from the
family for three weeks, but I'll get by. As you can
see I'm back on the list, but my email for now is at
yahoo instead of LDD.

CJ, how do those Sandersons fit around the starter?
Do you still have to drop the header to get at it?

There's an outstanding article on that Shelby 427
block in the Sept. 99 issue of Super Ford. And in the
Oct issue they go over the Edelbrock head. The dyno
results are unbelievable. The car it's in is Greg
Booze's Pale Rider '62 Galaxie that runs 9.40's in the
quarter. The peaks are 621 lbs. ft at 5900 rpms and
788 hp at 7200. YEAH!!! That's with a factory C8AX MR
Tunnel-Wedge intake, they expect 830 hp fron a
shetmetal one they are building.




>>>>>> The presence of a ridge is not
always an indicator that the block
needs to
be bored. It just depends on how worn
the cylinders are. Best thing
to do
is mic out all of the pistons and the
bore and see whether or not you
will
still be within specs after honing.
Many times the pistons are worn
and
should be replaced. You really
can't make an informed decision until
you
have all the facts and figures. There
is no sense leaving it to guess
work.


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 07:44:15 -0400
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - "Secret" VIN number on frame?

Group:

Anyone know off hand where the "secret" VIN number is that the BMV/Highway
Patrol uses for inspecting a '79 E100 Van in order to issue VIN plates?
I've heard its on the frame rails somewhere ...

John


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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 08:50:38 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Still not charging III

I know you are an expert at this but I beg to differ, if only slightly. I
agree with the main gist of your discussion but....If you turn off the
engine you will never see 14v across the battery, ever. I've seen 13, 12.5
immediately after charging for a few minutes but never more than that and
then only for a few minutes after which it drops back to about 12.5 if fully
charged. It's all about "Wattage". The alternator has a wattage capacity
and untill that is reached it will continue to pump more and more into the
system. The battery has a limited flow capacity so at some point the
alternator can, if rating is high enough, overcome this and begin to build
voltage. (the battery may get very hot in the process though :-))

As you say, if the battery is in poor condition, electrolyte is bad, plates
are shorted etc. it may not ever be able to reach 14v but with a good, but
discharged battery you should see more than 12.5v pretty quickly if not
immediately. If you pump full alternator wattage through the battery and
the voltage does not come up you better stand away from it because it will
probably blow :-( A shorted battery will boil the electrolyte out very
quickly leaving hydrogen gas inside and the short may "spark" causing an
explosion. If voltages don't make sense, don't get too close while it is
charging, charge it for 1/2 hr and check it but not with engine running if
you suspect this. In 1/2 hr you should be able to see a significant change
in static voltage across the posts with engine off. If not you probably
have a bad battery. I've seen discharged batterys as low as 8.5v come back
up to nearly 12 in a very short time and I've seen them stay at 8.5 v after
several hours too which is certainly an indication of a problem.

My battery charger has very limited "Wattage" and you will see as low as
10.5v on a dead battery at first even with charger attached but it does not
have the capacity the vehicle alternator has either, it is limited to 10
amps at 12v or 120 watts no matter what condition the battery is in, the
alternator is not limited in this way. A small stock alternator can push
630 watts at it's rated capacity but we all know they can put out more than
the rating if pushed. When I first noted this I thought my charger was bad
but it did eventually come up to expected voltage, then I realized what was
happening so what you say is true to a point but with enough wattage applied
the voltage HAS to come up :-) Can't wait to see what kind of wattage that
huge lincoln alternator will put out :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> the battery controls the voltage not the alternator. When
> the battery gets
> charged up the voltage will read higher.

> current. The whole point is you will never see exactly what
> voltage the
> alternator is operating at you will always see battery voltage.
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 09:00:15 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - still not starting

Could be just a bad connection at the starter, depending on the engine.
460's need really good connections :-) I had a bad nut on one of my
starters and the cable would bounce around so that it kept loosening. I
finally tied the cable a little better, put silicone grease on the lug and
put a better nut on it and it worked fine after that.

Clicking could be a starter problem but more likely a connection problem.
If you see smoke, replace the starter :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

>
> I put on a new solinoid and cleaned all conections, and all I get is a
> click. Is it time to tear down the starter?
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 10:18:41 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Carrier bearing mount

Hey Mike,

Yes, the carrier bearing mount is offset a little to the right (towards the
passenger side).......at least it was in my 69'.....I just replaced the Dana
21 transfer case with a 205, so I removed this whole mount (mine was riveted
on) and went with a one-piece driveline setup like the 76-79 4x4's.....

CJ

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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 07:54:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Vince Strazzabosco
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Old (40s-50s) Wrecker boom info wanted

Hi there,

I'm trying to find out more info on obtaining an old, 1940s or 1050s
ers wrecker boom setup, like a Holmes or something similar.

I'm just wondering if anybody has any knowledge of where I might be
able to find one or even just good info besides pictures. I'm in the
SF Bay Area.

Thanks!

vince


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 11:09:41 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: still not starting

> I put on a new solinoid and cleaned all conections,
> and all I get is a click. Is it time to tear down the starter?

This sounds like the symptoms of a weak battery.
If your battery is new, try swapping the old battery
to solenoid cable and the solenoid to starter cable
for new ones.


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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 11:24:14 EDT
From: SMOKEY5209 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 to 390

After all the positive information that I have received from the other
members, which I appreciate greatly, I have decided to go with the 390
rebuild. I now ask for the other members input as for cam selection.
I will be having the block bored 30 over and installing an Edlebrock
performer manifold with a 600 cfm carb.
I want something with a little lope in the idle but not an idle that shakes
you off the seat.
I realize that people like different cams and I will have to make the final
selection, I just need input from the more experienced.
I will be patiently waiting the information.
Thanks again
Ed
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 09:51:20 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pressure switch.

Matt wrote:
>Steve!
>
>I have been slowly working on an on board compressor between other
>projects over the last few months, and I'm almost there. I've got the
>pump installed, I've got a tank at my uncle's, I'll get the fittings and
>air lines from work, but I'm having some difficulty with the pressure
>switch. This seems like it should be simple, but I can't find one. I
>went to Sears and found a pressure regulator, which I assume regulates
>the pressure coming *out* of the tank, and won't shut off the pump, but
>I can't find the part to kill the pump. Every compressor they make has
>to have this switch, but I can't find one. Do I need to order it, or
>would some other type of store carry it, or what?

Uhhh, seems like it should be easy to find... Like you said, every
compressor has one!
Does your Sears have a service and parts department? They should be
able to get you one as a replacement part for one of their compressors.

or...
A well pump pressure switch will work just fine. I can find pressure
switches at the local hardware store in the section that deals
pumps for water wells. Make sure to get one that's adjustable in the
range you want. (75-150 psi?)

Or find a shop that does repairs on compressors and industrial
equipment. They should have them in stock.

Or order one from WW Grainger or one of the other industrial
supply catalogs.


>Also, on my air lines, I'm thinking about routing everything directly to
>the tank and then splitting air lines out from the tank. I think the
>tank has 3 or 4 fittings on it, so that part won't be a problem, but
>will it cause problems elsewhere?

Nope, that's fine. Make sure your tank has a water drain at the
bottom, and definately put a pressure relief valve on your tank if
it's not already equipped. The York pumps can put out well in
excess of 300 PSI, and if your pressure switch fails and the
pump keeps running your tank could become a shrapnel grenade...

My pressure relief is set at 150PSI.

>I *will* have this compressor done someday. I just need to postpone the
>roofing, the painting, expanding the garage, the new front
>deck........Sometimes I wish I were still renting.

Yep, never a shortage of projects....


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 09:51:19 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions

It was written:
>
>> I just went through this, if there is a ridge you need a bore because if
>> you just re-ring you may encounter piston slap.

And replied:
> The presence of a ridge is not always an indicator that the block needs to
>be bored. It just depends on how worn the cylinders are. Best thing to do
>is mic out all of the pistons and the bore and see whether or not you will
>still be within specs after honing. Many times the pistons are worn and
>should be replaced. You really can't make an informed decision until you
>have all the facts and figures. There is no sense leaving it to guess work.

Sounds like good advice. When I got my FE390 it had 139K+ miles on it
and smoked. (and was WAY oily) When I pulled it down, the rings were
shot and bores looked O.K (no vertical scratches or damage), but they
had a slight ridge at the top.
I didn't want to spend a bunch of money on it, so I removed the ridges
and carefully measured everything. Clearances were still reasonable,
and bores had a slight taper but no out-of-round, so I honed it and
measured again. Clearances were outside of "new assembly" limits,
but still well within the service limits.
I put some fresh cast iron rings on the old pistons and shoved 'em back
in their holes. New bearings, oil pump, timing set, cam, and some head work
and it was on the road.
It's now got about 60K miles since its "rebuild" and it runs great.
It uses less than a quart of oil between oil changes (3K) and doesn't
have any appreciable blowby. The PCV valve has no trouble keeping up
and the motor is clean and dry with no oil spewing.
It has a small amount of audible piston slap under certain conditions,
but it's not often enough or loud enough to be annoying or frightening.
I drive it vigorously, and it gets to see 5K RPM fairly regularly.
Next time I rebuild it it will get new pistons, but I don't expect that
it will be necessary for quite a long time yet...

If you can afford it, a good bore job and fresh pistons is the best
way to go, but if you need to save some cash and you can buy/borrow
the tools to measure the bores and pistons, it's certainly worth
checking it out to see if you can get by with a hone and ring job.
I know of several FE's that got just that and lived/are living long
happy lives. FE blocks and pistons seem to be able to log a hell
of a lot of miles with minimal wear if they are cared for and get
regular oil changes.
I expect to get 100K+ miles out of mine and I'm pretty intolerant
of sloppy, oil burning/leaking motors.

Like Stock Man said, the only way to know for sure is to examine
and measure first...


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 10:14:49 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - still not starting

Grant wrote:
>I put on a new solinoid and cleaned all conections, and all I get is a
>click. Is it time to tear down the starter?

Check the voltage right at the big lug on the starter while someone
turns the key. If you've got around 12 volts right at the starter but
it doesn't crank, then it's time to open up the starter.
If you've got low/no volts at the starter lug, then the problem is
somewhere upstream....

If you open the starter and find the engagement fork bent or popped
out of place (a not so uncommon problem), then go here for a look
at how to fix it to make it stronger:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/truck/starterfix/


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 14:52:09 EDT
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

Hey all
i was wondering. how hard is it to setup a 2 battery jobby in a truck or a
car. kind of like a diesel truck. do i have to fiddle with altenator
settings or can i just splice into the cables and make a platform for te
second one? thanks for hte help
Travis
"ol Blue"
66 F-250 4spd 2wd
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 11:08:59 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

- -----Original Message-----
From: TWL1911 aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup


>Hey all
>i was wondering. how hard is it to setup a 2 battery jobby in a truck or a
>car. kind of like a diesel truck. do i have to fiddle with altenator
>settings or can i just splice into the cables and make a platform for te
>second one? thanks for hte help
>Travis
>"ol Blue"


What you reference, is the easiest of all dual battery setups. make up some
custom cables, connect the bat in series (pos to pos, neg to neg) your alt
will charge both, and the vehicle will draw power from both. The down side
is you can not "keep" one bat in reserve and draw from the other. But you
WILL still get the advantage of overall more reserve AmpHrs and higher amps
available for cold weather starts.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal

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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 15:19:44 EDT
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

In a message dated 9/18/99 2:16:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
bronco78 mosquitonet.com writes:


custom cables, connect the bat in series (pos to pos, neg to neg) your alt
will charge both, and the vehicle will draw power from both. The down side
is you can not "keep" one bat in reserve and draw from the other. But you
WILL still get the advantage of overall more reserve AmpHrs and higher amps
available for cold weather starts. >>

Ok but i seen like on the fire departments trucks they have 2 batterys but
positive is connected to negetive. wouldnt that jack the voltage up to 24? or
is it the same?
thanks
Travis
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 11:29:48 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

ok, two things, I wrote series in my first post, but ment parallel.

Two 12v bat in series (like the fire truck you mentioned, + to -) will
yield 24v. Two 12v bat in parallel (like I described in my first post, + to
+, - to -)

You want the parallel setup, gives you the amp hour reserve and cold
cranking amps of both batteries. Basically acts as one BIG battery.

Ok, clear as mud now?

Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
- -----Original Message-----
From: TWL1911 aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup


>In a message dated 9/18/99 2:16:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
>bronco78 mosquitonet.com writes:
>
>
some
> custom cables, connect the bat in series (pos to pos, neg to neg) your alt
> will charge both, and the vehicle will draw power from both. The down
side
> is you can not "keep" one bat in reserve and draw from the other. But you
> WILL still get the advantage of overall more reserve AmpHrs and higher
amps
> available for cold weather starts. >>
>
>Ok but i seen like on the fire departments trucks they have 2 batterys but
>positive is connected to negetive. wouldnt that jack the voltage up to 24?
or
>is it the same?
>thanks
>Travis
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>

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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 13:18:01 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Safety Switch

>if I could find the neutral safety switch and route the wires past I >could get it started enough to move it into my garage. Anyone have any >ideas where this switch is at.

I think it is on top of the steering column,pointing straight up.
There is a pin that slides back an forth in a channel.There are holes in
either side of the channel and on in the pin.Line up all the holes and
stick a small wire through them and the truck should start.

>32 hours??? yeah, rite...

I have worked 27 hours straight plowing snow myself.It was in a 75 f-600
with a 330.This truck has been subjected to that kind of treatment since
new and it still kicks butt all winter long.
We now have enough personel that we split in to two crews working
12 hours each,running the trucks 24 hours a day.That seperates the
Fords from the off brands in a hurry.
A lot of guys like the ch*vys because they can hang out around the shop
drinkin'coffee while the mechanic works on the ch*vy.
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 17:41:15 EDT
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

Ok
i got ya i wasnt sure as to what you ment there. but the standard joe
altenator will charge them both with out a prob right?
thanks again
Travis
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 13:47:56 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

well, ya but keep in mind, batteries are just storage devices. Your OEM Alt
was designed to "fill" one bat, you ask it to recharge 2 and it will do so,
but not as quickly. You probable have a 40~70 amp alt. It will do the job,
just dont expect it to "fill" both drained bat in the same time it will
recharge your one stock one.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
- -----Original Message-----
From: TWL1911 aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup


>Ok
> i got ya i wasnt sure as to what you ment there. but the standard joe
>altenator will charge them both with out a prob right?
>thanks again
>Travis
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 17:58:38 EDT
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

ok cool thanks for all the help
Travis
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 19:36:15 -0500
From: "Daniel R. Olinick"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - My New '71 f100!

HI, I recently purchased a 1971 Ford F100. It is white.
It is a longbed. It has a three speed manual transmission
and a v8 engine I believe to be a 360. It is in excellent condition
and I plan to improve it as best I can. I hope this is the right place
for me to ask my questions because I am a newbie owner of a
classic ford truck. I am 26 years old and live in San Antonio, TX.
My father owned a 71 blue ford truck(or possibly newer). I am confused
because
I was 11 years old when I last saw the blue ford and my ford seems a lot
different. For example my dad's truck didn't have the piece of trim
attached to
the front of the hood I don't think. Anyway I can't remember.

What I need now is a few lessons on the history of the ford pick up truck.
My truck needs a lot of work and I don't know how to fix the things myself.
So I figure I need to learn or take it to a shop or one of my uncles or a
freind
of a freind. Brakes are bad. It might be the master cylinder. One rear
tire
will always lock up if I hit the brake hard enough. I have been told the
front
end ball joints and stuff are worn out not to mention the play in the
steering
wheel. I don't like the way the truck is riding. I need to find out if
the springs
and or shocks are worn out. Well, I need to get another seat or
fix/replace springs
in the seat.

I bought the truck after seeing it at a small used car lot. I have been
sort of looking
for another truck for a while now. I hadn't been too serious but I had to
stop and take
a closer look. The body has quite a lot of rust spots which I am worried
about. There
are some small rusted through places in the bottom of the doors and one on
the right
fender. I can tell the truck had some minor body work and a paint job but I
don't know
how long ago. The truck bed is mostly brown with rust. I want to clean up
the bed and
put a rust blocker or paint on bedliner if it will help stop the rust.

I believe the engine is good. I haven't been able to contact the previous
owner/owners
to find out about any replacement or overhauls. It cruises at 50 or 60 or
70 (maybe 80)
very well. It has a lot of pick up. I believe I would have no trouble
cranking her up to
100 or more If I wanted to but that's with no load(just me(264) and the
spare tire.
It idles rough when cold and the engine will die if I don't give it some
gas.
Anyway, I would appreciate any info on.

I will put up some scans on my website soon.

Daniel R. Olinick (dolinick earthlink.net)

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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 18:58:28 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Trans Questions

What 5 speed Trans (5th. overdrive) was used behind a late model 460 in a
2WD truck?
What kind of linkage was used for the clutch; Manual ,or Hydraulic?
Would it have a bolt on flange or a slip yoke for the output?
What would the Torque rating for this 5 spd. Trans be?

TIA.
MUEL
79 Bronco 400, 4spd.
75 F250 4x4


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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 21:33:46 -0500
From: "Lorin Missall"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pickup Box

I am looking for a pickup box for my 1976 f100. I live in Wisconsin and =
figured the best place to find a clean one is down south. I'm not sure =
where to start and was hoping someone may know of place to start. Any =
information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Lorin
lorin ga4u.com
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 23:36:06 PDT
From: "George Litton"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dual battery setup

Travis,

The dual battery set-up is pretty cool. I have not done it because I was
able to fit a group 31 battery into my stock tray with very little
modification. Are all you 73-79 guys listening? All you do is remove said
tray from truck, notch tray so that you can bend the lip next to the core
support flat, and re-install. I do not know if earlier models will support
this mod. I used to work for Interstate Batteries, so I had access to a
bunck of neat stuff for my charging system. 2/0 battery cables and the
like. While I was at it, I put in a plug in the grille for jumper cables.....

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