From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #335
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61-79-list-digest Saturday, September 18 1999 Volume 03 : Number 335



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices
FTE 61-79 - still not starting
FTE 61-79 - Lookee here !!
Re: FTE 61-79 - neutral safety switch
FTE 61-79 - Re: blow by continued
Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Armor all removal
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 bronco options
Re: FTE 61-79 - towing with a Bronco
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Still not charging III
Re: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices
Re: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices
FTE 61-79 - 65 352 and C6 Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - 65 352 and C6 Question

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 21:02:35 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices

Greg, you already have a 390 block! All you need is a 390 crank, rods,
and pistons! Have fun with your 390. It's an excellent choice.
Jason




Greg Fisher wrote:
>

> 2) Going to 390. Can the 360 be bored and stroked to make it a 390 or is
> this a waste of time and should I just find a 390 block.

>
> Greg Fisher
> '68 F100 longbed
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 19:37:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: grant eversoll
Subject: FTE 61-79 - still not starting

I put on a new solinoid and cleaned all conections, and all I get is a
click. Is it time to tear down the starter?

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 20:09:35 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Lookee here !!

Sam wanted me to forward this information, here you go !!!

Mike in Burien


'66 Ford 428 $600; Ford 302, $100. Both rebuildable 206/878-8296
I saw this in the seattle times. perhaps you could forward ti to the
truck list, guys there are always looking for 428's...
-srw
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 23:11:28 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - neutral safety switch

Matt

My '73 F100 had it's at near base of the steering column under the dash. It
had a 302 w C4. Now my '79 Bronco has it's underneath on the tranny. But it's
also 4wd with a 400 & C6. Hope it helps out some

George

In a message dated 9/17/99 11:12:45 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
matt17h20 hotmail.com writes:


Hi, I've got a 74 F100. I let my brother drive it for a while and somehow
the shifter on the steering column broke and is just dangling now. The
vehicle will not even turn over and I made sure it was in park on the
transmission. You can't shift from gears in the cab, but I figured if I
could find the neutral safety switch and route the wires past I could get it
started enough to move it into my garage. Anyone have any ideas where this
switch is at. Is it fairly accessable under the dash or is it inside of the
steering column. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

>>
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 20:15:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: blow by continued

Ask about the kind of rings used, Chrome or iron.

If he used Chrome then you could just wait for them to
seat (maybe never), or replace them.

If he used iron, then it is broken rings or another
problem like gaps aligned.

Also take a compression test, if they are all the same
it is probably ring seating, but if one or two are low
and others are good, it is broken rings.


> the person I
>bought the truck from seemed very trustworthy, the
>motor did seem just over hauled, clean engine new
>gaskets, receipts etc. Plus the gentleman
>said to give him a call anytime after, which I had
>done. He couldn't believe about the oil and he too
>figured that the rings hadn't seated.

To replace the rings just remove the intake manifold,
rockers and pushrods, heads and oil pan, unbolt the
rod caps, and push out the piston. If it has been just
rebuilt there should be no ridge to worry about. Do
one cylinder at a time, hone the cylinder, remove the
old rings, and install new cast iron rings and gap
them. Using a ring compressor (Sears or any tool
store) and oil, reinstall the pistons and rod caps,
retorque. Then replace the heads and oil pan etc.
using new gaskets. The only cost is the rings and
gaskets (thats enough). You might also look at your
rod bearings, pistons, heads etc. to be sure that it
was really rebuilt. If you can get some experienced
help, you should. It is not difficult, but you don't
want to miss any details. You could also get a book to
help you.

>So we are all saying rings right?? What do I do?
>Can I do the work
>without pulling the engine? I can do a lot of
>tearing apart and have someone else do the technical
>stuff. Do I pull the engine get the pistons
>out have the appropriate work done and then hire
>someone to assemble it and I'll put it back in the
>truck. Any guesses on the costs?

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 23:36:07 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?

Actually, I just used a compact 3 gauge cluster that had Volts, (and what was
sposto be) Oil Pres & Water Temp. (I was after the volt meter at the time,
but couldn't resist the gauge set). Anyway, I use a pair of brass "T"
fittings in series to hold the sending units, spliced it into the tranny
line. I chose the hot oil out figuring (like the cooling system) that Id
measure the max temp the tranny is running at, vs the suspected temp as an
increase from the cool supply fluid.

You can use either mechanical or electrical gauges, just remember, the
electrical senders must have a ground for them to operate. Thus my adapter
block was mounted to the frame with short lengths of rubber tubing allowing
flex for the steel lines.

Ive since relocated my sender block (and rerouted my lines above the frame
rail). Makes for a neater installation up near the radiator. I can send a pic
is you like.

George


In a message dated 9/17/99 1:45:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, yl dds.nl writes:

Good point about the temp gauge. Ive got a temp & pressure gauge
installed

Where do you get those? I have been thinking about it, but somehow never
ran into one.
>>
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 23:42:03 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Armor all removal

Should'a seen me when I put it on my motorcycle seats!

George

In a message dated 9/17/99 4:56:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
moments uswest.net writes:


was
cool and I put it on everything, including the gas, brake and clutch pedals.
My poor feet didn't know what to do. I sanded them to remove it. Not much
help for your dash but they say that laugher is good medicine. >>
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 23:43:11 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 bronco options

Bas van der Veer wrote:
>
> As some of you know I have a 78 bronco which I purchased a year ago. The
> longer I have it, the more I find out - but also the more questions get
> raised. It says it is a "custom" which is the basic model. But it does have
> two-tone,

MIne did also, only option the original owner seemed to get.

> all the moldings,

Comes with two tone paint.

> carpet,

Not sure on that one, mine had bacl mat originally.

> chrome bumpers,

Not sure on that one either?

>automatic transmission

That was optional on any model.

> sunscreens with clips,

????

>front and rear sway (stabilizer) bar, shocks,

Also optional on custom.

> and some other stuff that's listed for XLT only. It does not have the
> woodgrain on the steering wheel, and square headlights that are also listed
> for the XLT *only*, not available for the custom. I read about these
> options in a html file at the site with the online VIN decoder (there's a
> link from the ford-trucks page). The VIN decoder itself only tells me what
> I already know, a 78 bronco with a 351M.
>
> Would this be a truck that someone made from lots of spare parts? It did
> have a new engine, and some other stuff (transmission) looked like they had
> been out too. Then again some were original ford parts that looked like
> they had never been out. Does anybody know more, or perhaps a web site /
> book with more info?

See

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.Off-Road.com/4x4web/ford/bigbroncos/faq.html

For a little more info. I also have a copy of the original 78 Bronco
Brochure.

OX
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 23:50:33 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - towing with a Bronco

Bas van der Veer wrote:


> >becoming uncontrollable with his boat, an 18 foot old, heavy monster in tow.
> >My crew cab, OTOH would pull it all day with no problems. Just something
> >else to think about....

I regularly tow my 21 ft boat with no handling problems whatsoever.
I'd say it's pushing 5000 lbs with trailer, gas and gear. Speeds of 65+
are no problem on flat terrain with stock 351M.

Last week, I towed another 79 Bronc on a heavy duty tandum trailer.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/DILYSI/ontrailer.jpg

Could not get over 55 MPH, but towing was not that bad. Brakes totally
sucked as trailer brakes were not working. Total trailer weight was 7300
lbs.

OX
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 23:58:43 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Still not charging III

In a message dated 9/17/1999 10:49:32 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu writes:


12.5 volts. At this point I'm going to conclude it's fixed. I'd rather
see 13 or 14 volts, but I'm starting to wonder if I'm really sane.
We'll drive the truck a bit and see if the battery's charging or not. >>

Glad to see that it is fixed. This is what I have been trying to tell you,
the battery controls the voltage not the alternator. When the battery gets
charged up the voltage will read higher. If you had an Amp meter, Voltage
meter, and manual control of voltage knob on the regulator. I could adjust
the voltage up and the only thing that would change on the two meters is Amps
would go up, I would see no change in voltage until the battery voltage
started increase and as that happened Amps would go down. It is the
difference in voltage of the two sources that causes current flow. Your
alternator will try to operate at approx 14 volts, the battery is at 12 there
is a 2 volt difference and current probably is flowing at the max rating of
the Alternator. Anyway 2 volts with very little resistance equals high
current. The whole point is you will never see exactly what voltage the
alternator is operating at you will always see battery voltage.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 22:58:54 PDT
From: "George Litton"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices

Welcome to the list!!

My recomendation is for the 390. You already have the block, in your 360.
The only difference between the two is crank and rods. There are no "4V"
heads for FE's. Most macine shops charge a $100.00 core charge for the 390
crank. You can get pistons for the 390 that work on 360 rods.

I am not an FE fan, but that motor will give you more torque than the 351's.
You will not have any "swap" to do either.

Pocket porting on these motors is not really worth the time and money,
either.

Good luck.

George Litton in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho


>From: Greg Fisher
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices
>Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 20:32:04 -0400
>
>Hi. New to list. Have a question. I have a '68 F100 longbed that my
>Grandfather bought new. Has 2V 360/C6. The 360 could use a rebuild. The
>options I've been considering are:
>1) rebuild the 360 with 4V and a cam that get more from it. Will 4V heads
>be needed to match the new intake?
>2) Going to 390. Can the 360 be bored and stroked to make it a 390 or is
>this a waste of time and should I just find a 390 block.
>3) My Dad has 2 '70 2V 351C. Rebuild one of these, but change to 4V. New
>heads also? I know Edlebrock makes an intake to use a 4 barrel carb with 2
>barrel heads, but would the switch to the 4 barrel carb heads be better?
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Greg Fisher
>'68 F100 longbed
>
>
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______________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 00:08:00 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices

> Greg, you already have a 390 block! All you need is a 390 crank, rods,
> and pistons! Have fun with your 390. It's an excellent choice.
> Jason
..............

Your local machine shop might have the crankshaft and connecting rods in
stock. I recently paid $280 for the connecting rods and $100 for the
crankshaft to convert my 360 2bbl into a 390 4bbl in my 69 F250.

I've recently traded a tired 460 for a not so tired 390 and would be
willing to sell it for $300 but I live in Salt Lake City, Utah and it's
probably cheaper to find what you need locally rather than pay for shipping
from SLC.


Danger
danger csolutions.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/



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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 01:30:28 -0500
From: "Brian Forbes"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 65 352 and C6 Question

Hey,

Will my 352 bolt up to a C6? I'm considering swapping out my NP435 for a
C6.

Brian
Huntsville, Al
65 F100 240
65 F100 352 Custom Cab Camper Special
66 F100 302 Custom in Progress
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 02:08:24 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 65 352 and C6 Question
....


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