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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #334
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61-79-list-digest Friday, September 17 1999 Volume 03 : Number 334



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions
FTE 61-79 - 360 vs 390
RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions
E: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions
RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions
FTE 61-79 - Floyd and good ole frame!
FTE 61-79 - Re: 78-79 460 header/exhaust manifolds
Re: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions
FTE 61-79 - RE: Still not charging
FTE 61-79 - neutral safety switch
Re: FTE 61-79 - neutral safety switch
RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rollbacks
FTE 61-79 - My Club Wagon is now a "show truck"
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 vs 390
FTE 61-79 - Floyd and grease
FTE 61-79 - Oil sending unit
RE: FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part III
FTE 61-79 - Ex manifolds
FTE 61-79 -
FTE 61-79 - Cam Selection
Re: FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part V
Re: FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part III
FTE 61-79 - 78 bronco options
RE: FTE 61-79 - 66 ford pulling power
Re: FTE 61-79 - The 300, and what did I just step in?
FTE 61-79 - 351M rpm's and calculations
RE: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Flooded Hot Starts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ford 9 inch rear end questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - The sweetest sound
Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
Re: FTE 61-79 - towing with a Bronco
FTE 61-79 - RE: Still not charging III
Re: FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part III
Re: FTE 61-79 - CJ gets some work out of Wish
Re: FTE 61-79 - CJ gets some work out of Wish
RE: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
FTE 61-79 - Blow by continued
FTE 61-79 - Re:Armor all removal
FTE 61-79 - Re - Still Not charging. Part III
RE: FTE 61-79 - Oil sending unit
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Armor all removal
RE: FTE 61-79 - 360 vs 390
FTE 61-79 - Leaf spring bushings
FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices
Re: E: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions
FTE 61-79 - Pressure switch.
FTE 61-79 - Carrier bearing mount

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 04:44:09 PDT
From: "White Wolf"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions

Not sure how this conversation is going but I paig $650 to have my '66 352"
rebuilt back in April. and it still running 5000 miles later and good too. I
think they were going to charge me $250 for a core if they couldn't rebuild
mine.(but they could)


>The 352 is part of the FE family (352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428). The
>FE family has good reliability when not worn out. 1500 bucks doesn't sound
>like too much to investment for a rebuilt motor. You may want to check the
>quality of the rebuilder. Parts are redily available and most (if not all)
>external FE accessories will swap (manifold, dist, headers etc). You might
>check with Performance Automotive Wholesale (ads in any hotrod mag) to see
>what they have (It is a lot!!).
>As far as swaps go any of the above will swap as easy as removing the old
>motor and bolting the new one in. Any other swap will entail expense for
>mounts accessories etc.
>You need to evaluate the truck and estimate how much life is left in the
>trans, body and interior. If all you need is a rebuilt motor and the $1500
>unit is of good quality then $3000 for a total truck that will go another
>100K miles doesn't seem like much to me. Also you probably know better
>what
>this truck needs as aposed to another one.
>
>Tom H.
>

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 07:46:41 EDT
From: SMOKEY5209 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 vs 390

I am ready to rebuild the engine for my truck and have been seeking opinions
as to whether rebuild it as a 360 or a 390. I have been given various avenues
of thought, one is that the 360 is known to have a weak crank, and the other
is that the 390 has weak connecting rods.
Before I spend the money it takes to go either way, I would like some input
from the FTE users.
Also is there an advantage to pocket porting the heads, I have conflicting
opinions on this also.
The truck will be used for a street truck, for show and go.
Thanks in advance
Ed
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 08:09:14 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions

My son just rebuilt a 360 in a 72. He works for a shop in Columbus which
has a good reputation in the area. He's an apprentice mechanic right now
but sounds like he's picking it up pretty fast :-) He'd talk your leg off
if you called for advice :-)

The first thing to set up in a sitting engine is the rings. Before you get
too carried away I would consider disassembly and clean up. You may find it
doesn't really need a rebuild or at least for a little work you can get by
with it for a while to capitalize on your investment :-) It depends on what
you have more of and what facilities you have to work on it in. If the
pistons move easily you can do this without removing the engine. Pull the
pan and heads, disconnect the rods from the crank (keeping track of where
things are) and,if there is no ridge, push the pistons out one at a time and
clean them up. If there is a ridge rent or buy a reamer, clean up the ridge
(keeping the chips cleaned up (I put a rag over the piston to catch them))
and then push the pistons out. If you have building to work in this should
take no more than a weekend and will give you an opportunity to check it all
out, replace oil seals on the valves etc..

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I bought this truck a few months ago having been told that
> the engine was
> running fine when it was parked. Well, that's the risk you
> take. Win some,
> lose some. It runs, yes, but after warming up it has no oil
> pressure and
> smokes. So I'm assuming a complete rebuild is in order. I
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 08:04:28 -0500
From:
Subject: E: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions

>If the pistons move easily you can do this without removing the engine. Pull the
>pan and heads, disconnect the rods from the crank (keeping track of where
>things are) and,if there is no ridge, push the pistons out one at a time and
>clean them up. If there is a ridge rent or buy a reamer, clean up the ridge
>(keeping the chips cleaned up (I put a rag over the piston to catch them))
>and then push the pistons out.


But if you are going through all this trouble and the cylinder walls are not gouged,
why not go ahead and hone them and put in some nice new soft cast iron rings?
Probably some new rod bearings and the motor will be almost as good as new??

For someone who has never done it before, I think a weekend is probably an
optimistic guess. Especially if a parts run is needed. Few places have FE
components on the shelf.

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 09:02:07 -0400
From: Marvin & Michelle Meyer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions

>things are) and,if there is no ridge, push the pistons out one at a time
and
>clean them up. If there is a ridge rent or buy a reamer, clean up the
ridge
>(keeping the chips cleaned up

I just went through this, if there is a ridge you need a bore because if
you just re-ring you may encounter piston slap. Not a nice sound after all
the work you went through. Up here in Canada a machine shop will
re-bore.030 over plus hot tank and install new cam bearings for $30 per
hole plus our GST Tax. New re-ground crank= $125 exchanged

Marvin
meyer stratford.webgate.net



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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 06:28:33 PDT
From: "Mark Mcknight"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Floyd and good ole frame!

Hey ya'll I got me Truck almost totaly riped apart... gotta paint the frame
yet... I was wondering if anyone knew where to get 2 rear frame cross
members?

And with all this talk on floyd if it comes around here its an open invite
for anyone who wants to go four wheelin! I got a mudhole 1/4 mile long and
in some places 3 feet deeP! = anyone care to run! :o)
anyways any insight into my frame problem would be GREAT!! thanx again for
your help!

Mark
94' M*zda B-3000
91' M*zda MPV
78' Ford F-100 2wd
76' Ford F-250 4x4 beater
46' G*C 3/4 ton pickup
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://SMCI.DYNIP.COM

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 06:49:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 78-79 460 header/exhaust manifolds

Clem wrote:
> Does anyone know which shorty headers will fit the best?

Sanderson makes a shorty header model FF-460 that may work. You will
have to look at the dimensions and photos from the catalog to try to
determine if they will work in your truck. You can give them a call
and ask them if they will work and get a catalog. I don't have the
number, but they are in South San Francisco, CA.

If you have a manual transmission you need to make sure the clutch
linkage will clear.

You can also look at www.centuryperformance.com for most of the
information that is in the catalog including a pictures of the FF-460
headers. If you go to my web page and follow the Sanderson Headers
link, the link at the bottom takes you directly to the Sanderson page
on the Century Performance site.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
in digest mode
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 10:15:59 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions

> I just went through this, if there is a ridge you need a bore because if
> you just re-ring you may encounter piston slap.

The presence of a ridge is not always an indicator that the block needs to
be bored. It just depends on how worn the cylinders are. Best thing to do
is mic out all of the pistons and the bore and see whether or not you will
still be within specs after honing. Many times the pistons are worn and
should be replaced. You really can't make an informed decision until you
have all the facts and figures. There is no sense leaving it to guess work.


Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 07:37:11 -0700
From: "Scott Jensen"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Still not charging

A few months ago I had charging problems. Work was busy so I just put the
charger on it every few days till I got time to play with it. While the
engine was running, I put the volt meter on the positive side of the
battery, which resulted in a reading of 12.7 volts. This seemed low, should
have been up around 14. I turned on my lights and fan. Voltage reading
dropped to 11.5 volts. Cool, I thought, it's the alternater. Just for fun,
I pulled out the cheesy clamp-on current tester that the shop has and
clamped it on the main alt. wire. Then I started turning things on, one by
one: lights, fan, radio, brake lights. Between each, I'd check the meter,
and it never went above about 3 3/4 amps while the battery voltage kept
going down. Since regulaters regulate voltage and fuses regulate current, I
knew it was my alternater because the darn thing wasn't supplying the
current everything needed. That's why the voltage was dropping.

I knew I could just replace a few diodes cheaply, but it was a warrantied
alt. so I took it to the Year? Make? Sorry, your truck doesn't have that
motor, Store. They put it on their machine, which is basically an electric
motor and a belt, with a voltmeter built in. "Guess what sir", they said,
"your alt. shows 12.7 volts, it's fine."

After much haggling, costing more of my time than a few diodes would, I
walked out with a new rebuilt. I haven't touched my battery charger since
then.

My conclusion to the whole mess was that the alt. was "kinda" working.
Enough to run everything, but not enough to run everything and also keep
the battery deep charged.

Just my 0.02000 cents.

Scott
76 F100 4x4
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 08:07:50 PDT
From: "Matt VanDewater"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - neutral safety switch

Hi, I've got a 74 F100. I let my brother drive it for a while and somehow
the shifter on the steering column broke and is just dangling now. The
vehicle will not even turn over and I made sure it was in park on the
transmission. You can't shift from gears in the cab, but I figured if I
could find the neutral safety switch and route the wires past I could get it
started enough to move it into my garage. Anyone have any ideas where this
switch is at. Is it fairly accessable under the dash or is it inside of the
steering column. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Matt


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 10:19:33 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - neutral safety switch

Matt

You might on the shifting arm on the transmission and see if there is a
half moom pastic module on it. If so this is it.




At 08:07 AM 9/17/99 PDT, you wrote:
>
>
>Hi, I've got a 74 F100. I let my brother drive it for a while and somehow
>the shifter on the steering column broke and is just dangling now. The
>vehicle will not even turn over and I made sure it was in park on the
>transmission. You can't shift from gears in the cab, but I figured if I
>could find the neutral safety switch and route the wires past I could get it
>started enough to move it into my garage. Anyone have any ideas where this
>switch is at. Is it fairly accessable under the dash or is it inside of the
>steering column. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>Matt
>
>
>______________________________________________________
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:23:11 -0400
From: Marvin & Michelle Meyer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions

I didn't want to get into a long winded discussion about it but: Assuming
the following has been done:
Compression test, Vac test, scraped carbon off the tops of cylinders, then
if you take your finger nail and scratch gently and feel a ridge.
Experience dictates a bore job. Just for additional proof then you can
proceed if you want and measure everything up. Measure at the top, then
middle, then bottom, of piston travel each at 90 degree intervals( that's a
total of 6 measurements) then measure piston up 1" from leading edge of
skirt, 90 degrees from piston pin. For an every day vehicle (daily driver)
.004-.006, mild racing .005-.007 MAX
My fault should have explained in detail the first time for the old FE Iron
Horses
Marvin Meyer
Machinist,
Tool & Die
Stationary Eng. 3rd Class
Industrial Maintenance Mechanic (Millwright)
FAG Bearings LTD, Stratford, Ont. Canada
meyer stratford.webgate.net


The presence of a ridge is not always an indicator that the block needs
to
be bored. It just depends on how worn the cylinders are. Best thing to
do
is mic out all of the pistons and the bore and see whether or not you will
still be within specs after honing. Many times the pistons are worn and
should be replaced. You really can't make an informed decision until you
have all the facts and figures. There is no sense leaving it to guess
work.



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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 08:26:58 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rollbacks

Ok, I'll bite.......WHAT THE HECK IS A ROLL BACK????? Ok, I'm going to
guess with my vast background of auto knowledge that it is one of those
wierd looking slanted car hauler trucks with a winch and a bed that can be
tilted for loading. I've seen two types, a flat bed with hydraulics to tilt
it and one that stays tilted and has no hydraulics but the vehicle is held
on with chains and blocks (course you chain it on a flat bed too :-))

Flat bed has to be more expensive but also much more useful IMHO :-)

I had a normal stake truck with 15' ramps to do the same thing. Much
cheaper but not quite as convenient :-) Wish I still had that truck, it was
really cool :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > So who has experince owning a rollback (flatbed). I see
> late 70's F-350
> > big block rollbacks going for 5-6000$. What is the weight
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:14:56 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - My Club Wagon is now a "show truck"

Hello all,

I am proud to announce that my 1966 Falcon Club Wagon won an award at the
First Annual Hot Rod Hoedown held here in Philadelphia last weekend on
Sunday, September 12, 1999. There was a turnout of about 70 vehicles.

I receieved a phone call from Furry, one of the organizers, who told me
that he needed to confirm my address to send out the award. I left the show
early since I was worn out from having driven back to Philly from
Connecticut the morning of the show. I also got stuck in New York City on
the way home when the George Washington Bridge was closed *while* I was on
it. I was shocked to hear that I won an award.

What did I win? ... "Best Lowrider"

Wha?! Since my van was the ONLY truck there and easily the tallest vehicle
present (it's stock and not lowered at all), there must have been a
mistake. Nope, Furry said there was no mistake, but he didn't quite
understand the selection either.

Considering that there were a few actual LA-style lowriders present at the
show, I can only imagine that my selection was some kind of organized joke.
The majority of the show was 50s and 60s low-buck style rods with an
emphasis on cars that are actually driven regularly, though, so perhaps it
was a rally against the true high-zoot slammers.

Keep in mind that my van is rusting out in the rear and has some primered
patches along the wheel wells, as well as a full compliment of scrapes and
dings. It does have flat suede blue paint (naturally aged, of course), some
shiny polished Maverick wheel covers and a pair of chrome headlight covers,
so it screams "kustom, baby!" ;)

In any case, I'm happy about the award. As with most other aspects of my
life -- I'll take what I can get. :)

- -don

- --
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:26:55 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 vs 390

I've been running 390's for 11 years now and have never experienced a
rod failure. In my younger years, I used to race my stock 390 against
5.0's. 6000 rpm shifts were the norm. Now I have weak valve springs, but
never had a rod or crank failure. I'd rebuild it as a 390 and keep it
below 5000 rpm.

Jason



SMOKEY5209 aol.com wrote:
the other is that the 390 has weak connecting rods.
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:33:11 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Floyd and grease

>>Repack the wheel bearings, also. We had some heavy
rains here in Iowa in '93 and I drove through it all! What a blast! That
is, untill things started to break.

This thread popped a question into my head that was there several days ago.
I'm behind on the list and am reading the posts out of order. At any rate, I
couldn't find real lithium chasis grease the other day and had to buy Mobil
1 synthetic grease. It said on the tube that it was 100% compatible wiht all
lithuium grease. My questions: Is it really compatible? Any pitfalls? It's
red so it's easy to spot. Should I hunt real lithium grease or continue to
use the synthetic? You know how I feel about motor oil. :-)

78 hour work weeks wreak havoc on the enjoyment of my FoMoCo products and
projects. (Everyone keeps telling me one of my tail lights is burned out.
I've only had time to convert one side to the second bulb.)

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:47:55 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil sending unit

Clem writes: >>The oil pressure sending unit shouldn't be a problem, as it
screws to the
side of the block.

Not on my 460's. It is behind the intake on top of the block.

You are thinking of FE, I think. Maybe Windsor also - not sure there.

It should still fit, regardless of engine or location. Just don't try to drive
a gauge off a "Idiot light" unit. It must be for a gauge.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 12:43:12 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part III

It isn't logical which is why I keep coming back to the alternator. When
you say you checked continuity, you mean on the fuseable link? The main
current wire from the alternator? Have you checked the diodes in the
alternator yet? Even though the alternator is putting out AC the battery
will still read 12v on the dc multimeter but no dc voltage will show up in
some places because a dc multimeter can't read ac, it will read zero because
both sides are equal.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> It doesn't seem logical that a voltage reg would work fine in one 1968
> Ford truck but not another. At this point I can't see what
> else it could
> be.
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:52:42 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ex manifolds

Clem writes: >>I've been running L&L headers (fenderwell exit) headers in my
'79 350. I
want convert to a shorty header or some 460/429 cast iron (stock) manifold.
Does anyone know which shorty headers will fit the best? Are there any cast
iron manifolds that fit this application, or has anyone tried to accomplish
this? I've tried a set of 77 lincoln manifolds, but the right side is too
wide, and there is frame interference. I'd either have to raise the motor,
or modify the frame. If I had a choice, I'd want to find a set manifolds
that fit.

Try to find the right(passenger) side ex manifold off a Van or truck. They are
supposed to clear the frame. The 460 engine was offered in 2X4 F series from
'78 up, and some say as early as '74 in the F350.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:48:19 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 -

>>My vehicles don't usually sit long enough to
get cool, much less have rodents make a home in it.

Azie,

The squirrels ate a Buick LeSabre and a Cadillac DeVille in the parking lot
at work one day. You don't have to sit still long if the moon is right. It
must have been some sick or desperate rodents that would eat a Ford truck.
Mine has sat for months at a time in its past life and not been eaten (yet).

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:05:06 EDT
From: SMOKEY5209 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cam Selection

I am once again in a fix. I am looking for a camshaft that will give good
performance and torque. I am rebuilding a 360 and was looking for a cam that
didn't require changing all the other parts just to match it. I have been
told Edlebrock, by some, Crane by others, Crower etc.
I realize that everyone has their favorite and maybe that is where my problem
lies.
I am planning on having the block bored 30 over and installing 9 to 1
pistons, Edlebrock manifold and a 750 carb.
If you could just tell me what some of you are using and how you feel about
them I would appreciate it.
I am looking for a tire burner, but not something that at idle shakes you off
of the seat.
Thank again
Ed
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:35:35 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part V

I posted this earlier this week with out being as direct. The alternator
does not control the voltage on the DC bus. The Battery does! The DC bus
voltage will only read what state of charge that the battery has at the
moment you check. Replace your voltage regulator and let the battery charge.
(You will not see the voltage go up until the battery is at a higher state
of charge.) I spent 24 years on submarines and DC electrical systems are
something I have lived!
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 10:43:51 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part III

Don Grossman wrote:
> I was leaving the gauge/ light out altogether.

But that was the point of my post - the wiring is different
depending on the whether an ammeter or light is used.

> 1 test would be to use a jumper wire and give the Field 12v
> manually and watch the meter.

This is an excellent test of the alternator. It's called a
"Full Field" test, and there are adapters available (snap-
on, etc) that replace the regulator to do this quickly.

However, Bill already knows that there isn't any drive on
the field wire. This comes from the regulator, and he's
replaced the regulator with a supposedly good one from his
truck (Bill is working on a friends truck).


> Here they are again for reference with out any Gauges involved

Well, yeah, but this is for a sytem with an "ALT" light,
not an ammeter.

Once again, I'll lean on Steve for his schematic:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/truck/fordchrg.jpg

> "I" should be direct source of 12v from ignition switch

Kind of correct. With an ALT light, then the light is in
series with this lead.

> "A" should be the capacitor/( this would also go the idiot
> light if there is one)

Capacitor is correct, idiot light is wrong. This terminal
should be "always hot", it connects right to the battery
side of the starter solenoid.

> "S" this wire should go to the Stator post on the alternator

Yes, on an ALT light system. With an ammeter this regulator
terminal is connected to the switched 12 volts from the
ignition switch, and the alternator STA term either isn't
connected or is used to drive an electric choke heater.

> "F" is the for the Field post on the alternator.

Always.

> 1 wire on the Alternator will go to the Battery " Bat"

One BIG wire :-)

> And the last one is the ground ( frame, battery any good ground)

> If all of these are correctly hooked up and the regulator tests
> good, it has to be the alternator
>
> Sorry for going back to the beginning but sometimes it helps

It ALWAYS helps when I get stuck :-)
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 16:35:39
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78 bronco options

As some of you know I have a 78 bronco which I purchased a year ago. The
longer I have it, the more I find out - but also the more questions get
raised. It says it is a "custom" which is the basic model. But it does have
two-tone, all the moldings, carpet, chrome bumpers, automatic transmission
(C6), sunscreens with clips, front and rear sway (stabilizer) bar, shocks,
and some other stuff that's listed for XLT only. It does not have the
woodgrain on the steering wheel, and square headlights that are also listed
for the XLT *only*, not available for the custom. I read about these
options in a html file at the site with the online VIN decoder (there's a
link from the ford-trucks page). The VIN decoder itself only tells me what
I already know, a 78 bronco with a 351M.

Would this be a truck that someone made from lots of spare parts? It did
have a new engine, and some other stuff (transmission) looked like they had
been out too. Then again some were original ford parts that looked like
they had never been out. Does anybody know more, or perhaps a web site /
book with more info? Of course all this doesn't really matter in the sense
that the truck is what it is, and whether something was stock or an option
doesn't matter anymore.. unless you're a real FTE and want to know exactly
what you have and what you miss!

What engines were available for these bronco's? I only know of the 351M and
400.

Thanks,
Bas.




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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 10:51:15
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 66 ford pulling power

>> been the engine of choice for years. The I-6 will get down to
>> a pull and stay there;

So will my 351M, even when I'm right up to my 6100lbs GVWR it'll pull
pretty much any hill in second (meaning 50-55 mph). Up the hill, what
matters is pure horsepower. Then all you need is the right gears to keep
the engine at its peak performance.. I'm sure the older 300's will have
higher compression and no emission cr#p, so they can very well have more hp
than the newer V8's.. Plus, my engine sometimes has power left in 2nd but
then in third with 2300 rpm or so it doesn't pull..


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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 11:38:54
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - The 300, and what did I just step in?

>You can lean on a Ford door and not total the cab. You can live in a
coastal

That reminds me of a forest service guy who drove a d#dge, he said "man
these things have a strong frame, but the body gets dented while sitting in
the garage"

But didn't ford go the same way? I was astonished when I found out my 78
bronco weighs almost as much as my uncle's 81 F250 *WITH* the 1500lbs
camper. And then the F250 has IFS, extra leaf springs etc, how come it is
that much lighter? Must be the body or something.

The government should mandate a minimum average lifetime rather than a
minimum gas mileage.

>county and not have the rust to eat up your floorboard and fender wells
>before the payment book is empty. But pull out by a Chevy at the red light

I know somebody from indiana who replaced his rocker panels every 5 years..
then again the bronco is from '69 and it is pretty impressive that it
survived 30 years of four wheeling, his son is using it now with big 36"
tires.


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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 11:12:43
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351M rpm's and calculations

What's a safe redline rpm for the 351M? I have no tach so I just stick to
the speeds my C6 will allow in Drive.

I'd like to calculate my rpm; questions:

- - How much slip does a torque converter normally have? This is a '78 bronco
/ C6
- - What's the standard gear ratio? 3.54?

With the third gear 1:1, 33" tires, 3.54:1 rearend, say 90 km/h (58 mph or
so?), I get 2016 rpm. With the slip that would be 2100? That's pretty
good.. but yeah at 50 mph that would be 1800, no wonder it starts loosing
power then.



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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 16:48:49
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?

> Has anyone or is it possible to add a tranny cooler to a radiator without
> it? I'm not talking about an auxilary cooler (which I will have to do if

Sure, just get the very biggest one you can find. May cost you $75-$100 or
so but it beats having any kind of problems.


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 17:41:43
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Flooded Hot Starts

>>> If I needed one and couldn't find a place to buy it I wouldn't
>>> hesitate a bit to make one myself...
> Naw, I'd make it out of whatever was lying around the garage...

Perhaps you can start manufacturing concrete spacers ;-)

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 17:47:53
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ford 9 inch rear end questions

>I have a 1972 F-100 with a bad rear end. I have access to a 1975 F-100, but
>it has longer axles and 31 spline axles. My 72 has 28 spline axles. Will I
>be able to find the 31 spline axles in the correct length, or will I have to
>get the ones out of the 75 shortened if I want to use them? Also, anyone

My bronco had a bent axle and I got a brand new one, I think it was about
$200 or so. Actually my mechanic got it for me, not sure where he ordered
it.

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 09:07:30
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - The sweetest sound

>away, we did sumthin wrong. Well folks that starter wasnt engaged for more
>than 1/4 of a sec before that beast roared to life. And I mean ROAR (still

That sure must have been a great feeling! Congratz!

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 17:21:14
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?

>Good point about the temp gauge. Ive got a temp & pressure gauge installed

Where do you get those? I have been thinking about it, but somehow never
ran into one.

> line going into the transmission. The optimum temperature for the
> transmission is 180-200F. when the temperature starts getting in above
> 200-210F range, seals start cooking and the fluid breaks down. Note that it
> is equally important for the transmission not to run too cool. For this
> reason, the winter months (if applicable) can be bad as well. Use a guage

Hmm I have a BIG cooler because it was running kinda hot when four wheeling
(don't have a gauge but I just had this feeling.. although in the end the
oil did not look like it had been hot). But now I can hold my hand on the
pan and it only feels like 40-50 deg C (100-120F) or something, and that's
with hwy driving in SUMMER. You're the first I hear talking about running
cool being bad. Most people I talked to said that would be OK as it does
not have contaminating gasses like an engine.

> at first, and if things dont work out, ad the radiator cooler as well.

Or in my case a thermostat ;-)

> Note: using a aftermarket tranny filter (Summit Racing has them) can only
> help.

Unless it gets plugged..


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 17:16:37
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?

>wet snow for hours on end, and and shifting all the time), and once while
>plowing for 32 hours non-stop, the tranny started acting up. It was all of

32 hours??? yeah, rite...


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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 11:55:44
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - towing with a Bronco

>>>Does anybody have experience in towing with bronco's? I have a '78
>Well I have been unable to determine who started this thread, sorry. There

I did..

>is another small problem with towing a large trailer with a Bronco. That
>short wheelbase is going to let a big trailer whip you around if you get
>.... careless. I had a G*C Jimmy when no one knew what one was and my

Yeah that's merely why I asked; the wheelbase is really the only difference
when compared to the pickups. I know a shorter wheelbase is worse for
towing (although nice when backing up) but I expected the weight to
compensate somewhat.

>brother had a R mch rger. We both had the same problem. The power was there,
>the suspension could handle the weight, but the trucks would verge on

Actually I just redid my springs, had them re-arced and added a new (6th)
leaf. The bronco used to hang backwards quite a bit, when fully loaded it
would be only 1-1.5" from the stops. Now it sits some 5 inches higher
(maybe 1-1.5" over stock) and doesn't come down as much with increased loads.

I also got a 4-core radiator, PS cooler, and the biggest tranny cooler I
could find. With "usual" highway driving the trans oil stays around 100 deg
F, judging from the oil pan temperature. Just nice to the touch!

>becoming uncontrollable with his boat, an 18 foot old, heavy monster in tow.
>My crew cab, OTOH would pull it all day with no problems. Just something
>else to think about....

Sounds like I just need to be careful. Thanks for the advice!

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:42:36 -0400
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Still not charging III

OK.
I think this is done. Hopefully. Last night I picked up a new
voltage reg. Installed in the 'non-charging' truck. Then I put
the key in the 'run' position and checked the Field (orange) wire.
Lo and behold: 10 volts at the Field terminal on the alternator and
the alternator light was glowing. I was getting neither voltage nor
a glowing alt. light w/ the volt reg from my truck. Next, I fired
the truck up. The alternator light flickered (for .25 seconds) then
went out. The truck still shows 12.5 volts at the battery when
running. I flipped the headlights on, and the voltage stayed around
12.5 volts. At this point I'm going to conclude it's fixed. I'd rather
see 13 or 14 volts, but I'm starting to wonder if I'm really sane.
We'll drive the truck a bit and see if the battery's charging or not.
That'll be a good test for sure...
Of course, I don't know why one voltage reg works fine in my truck, but
not in his. I cleaned the volt reg ground a while back, and my voltage
tester shows a nice, clean ground there, so I know it wasn't the volt reg
not grounding out.

I want to thank everyone who offered help on this. I really couldn't have
helped my friend without everyone's help. Thanks a bunch.
Ohio Bill
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:22:06 -0700
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part III

For information regarding this post refer to Pat Brown's last post.

Thanks Pat,

A word of caution for anyone using the Haynes books.... Don't ;)

So far Steve has the best layout.

Part of what lead me to my wiring is what is on my truck. I have the Idiot
light and an ammeter. Only my ammeter is inline with the charging wire (
aka "The Big One")

I just went out to look at my trucks wiring and the A terminal connects to
the capacitor and the Bat side of the Alt. The same difference as it still
always gets 12V constant. Also my wires are not all the same color so I
guess I followed the wrong one the first time.

Ohio Bill

Just do the field test and get back to us Please so we can be done with
this thread ;)

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4
43 GPW


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:35:26 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - CJ gets some work out of Wish

>From: "Bill Beyer"
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - CJ gets some work out of Wish
>
>>don't think we'll have much success, though!!!!!!
>>Dave told me last night that "Not just
>>anyone can have an M-block".....
>
>Now Dave I expect you to be strong and not give
>in to the Dark side.

Aw, Bill. I try to be ecumenical about all this and I just can't bring myself
to say that any hunk of cast iron made by Henry's boys could be associated w/
the Dark side. The most I could say is that these poor FE lovers are merely
misguided, but not truly evil. Now, that stuff from the Great Malevolence...
that's stuff from the Dark side!

Really, the bigger threat to my parochial beliefs is that Wish guy and his OHC
proselytizing -- trying to lead me astray from the Almighty Pushrod.... It's
insidious, and yes, I must confess, even I have been tempted by the siren song
of the high revs, but I am strong and steadfast in my love for real low-end
torque, and I still firmly believe that I (and those who believe like me) will
be ultimately rewarded by getting more than 25K miles out of a clutch while
enjoying real performance.

As for me and my M-block devotion, it is unswerving. I shall always carry the
M-block light to show the way of true enlightenment for all my fellow Ford
lovers.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:54:42 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - CJ gets some work out of Wish

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Resch
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - CJ gets some work out of Wish



>Aw, Bill. I try to be ecumenical about all this and I just can't bring
myself
>to say that any hunk of cast iron made by Henry's boys could be associated
w/
>the Dark side. The most I could say is that these poor FE lovers are
merely
>misguided, but not truly evil. Now, that stuff from the Great
Malevolence...
>that's stuff from the Dark side!


Good point!

>Really, the bigger threat to my parochial beliefs is that Wish guy and his
OHC
>proselytizing -- trying to lead me astray from the Almighty Pushrod....
It's
>insidious, and yes, I must confess, even I have been tempted by the siren
song
>of the high revs, but I am strong and steadfast in my love for real low-end
>torque, and I still firmly believe that I (and those who believe like me)
will
>be ultimately rewarded by getting more than 25K miles out of a clutch while
>enjoying real performance.


Leave us not forget that the NASCAR boys seem to do pretty well in the revs
dept., even with lowly pushrod mills. Can you say 351W, Cleveland heads,
9000+ RPM, it gives me goosebumps!

>As for me and my M-block devotion, it is unswerving. I shall always carry
the
>M-block light to show the way of true enlightenment for all my fellow Ford
>lovers.

Amen brother! Praise the lord! Somebody pass me a camshaft...


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:58:47 -0400
From: "Clem Salek"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?

Hey, other than 15-20 minutes of idleing time for re-fuelings, coffee
breaks, and grabbing somethin' to eat, it was every bit of 32 hours...I
probably shut the truck off once for 20 minutes the whole storm. I've got
my paycheck and timeslips to prove it. I'm glad the guy I work for isn't as
skeptical as you seem to be! Anyways, that's why old Fords, 460's and all
the excellent hardware that goes along with these trucks rule. While
plowing, I ran across some dude with a brand new Dodge W350, auto. After
plowing for about 10 hours with this guy, I could smell his tranny from the
other side of the parking lot. He soon lifted the hood, and let things cool
down for about 1/2 hour...He soon went home...I pulled a 3 grand donut
around him and went on pushing snow. I guess he didn't want to ruin a brand
new truck.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Bas van der Veer
Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 1:17 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?


>wet snow for hours on end, and and shifting all the time), and once while
>plowing for 32 hours non-stop, the tranny started acting up. It was all of

32 hours??? yeah, rite...


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 15:50:54 -0500
From: David.R.John deluxe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Blow by continued

Thanks to all who have responded to my 78 4x4 460 with the oil puking
problems. Just to answer some of the lingering questions: the person I
bought the truck from seemed very trustworthy, the motor did seem just over
hauled, clean engine new gaskets, receipts etc. Plus the gentleman said to
give him a call anytime after, which I had done. He couldn't believe about
the oil and he too figured that the rings hadn't seated. I have checked
the PCV and it is sucking away through the valve, but it can't keep up
apparently.

I tried the bon ami last night and took it for a spin and drove it pretty
hard. Well I'm guessing this technique is not instant, but it blew hard
enough to push my dipstick out (I had taped it on pretty good). Also force
oil out from the filler cap!!

So we are all saying rings right?? What do I do? Can I do the work
without pulling the engine? I can do a lot of tearing apart and have
someone else do the technical stuff. Do I pull the engine get the pistons
out have the appropriate work done and then hire someone to assemble it and
I'll put it back in the truck. Any guesses on the costs?

Sorry my posts are so long, just trying to give some detail.

Thanks all!!

David
78 F250 4x4 Supercab 460 4spd
78 F250 4x4 400 C6 (parts truck for tranny swap)

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:49:51 -0700
From: "Christeen Bradley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:Armor all removal

You should have seen what I did in my younger days! I thought Armor All was
cool and I put it on everything, including the gas, brake and clutch pedals.
My poor feet didn't know what to do. I sanded them to remove it. Not much
help for your dash but they say that laugher is good medicine.

Good Luck
Scott
1966 F-100 Shortbox 351C

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:59:03 -0700
From: sparky mail.island.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re - Still Not charging. Part III

Two thoughts on this problem.
First are you sure the regulator is grounded. The regulator is case ground
and without a good ground I am fairly sure it wont work. This could be the
problem as the reg works in your truck. Try grounding the regulator
mounting bolt directly to the battery negative post, of course clean the
mounting area very good first.
Second when you measure the voltage I assume it is with the connector off
the regulator. So you could have a corrosion problem in the green/red wire
from the ignition switch or the yellow wire from the battery. This will let
you measure the voltage but when you try to use it the voltage is dropped
at the corroded part. I have seen this many times working on vehicles and
boats. Corrosion is not our friend :)
Here is a way to check this, be patient I am making this up as I go :)
Remove the green/red wire from the regulator connector leaving the others
connected to the regulator. Start the truck. Then using a jumper wire put
12volts from the battery direct to the spot where the green/red wire should
go on the regulator, and check for 14-15 volts at the battery. This should
bypass the ignition switch and associated wiring and allow the reg to work
if the igntion switch circuit is the problem.
For the yellow wire, you could also run a jumper wire from the battery
direct to the spot where the yellow wire is supposed to hook to the
regulator. If this fixes the prob then yellow wire circuit is corroded.
If this helps do not leave the truck wired with the jumpers and think the
prob is fixed. Repair or replace the defective wiring and or igntion switch.
Good luck.

Sparky
73 F250 4x4
3?0FE 4v

>Hi all,
>I checked the green wire w/ red stripe this morning. It has
>12 volts when the key is in the 'run' position. I also
>checked continuity (for the 5th time) in the orange (field)
>wire from the Volt reg to the alternator. It's good (ie no breaks).
>This leads me to the conclusion that the voltage reg is no good.
>However, this same voltage reg is back in my truck, and works fine
>(I KNOW this particular volt reg is good b/c I just put 100+
>miles on my truck in 2 days with it).
>
>It doesn't seem logical that a voltage reg would work fine in one 1968
>Ford truck but not another. At this point I can't see what else it could
>be.
>The volt reg has power from the yellow wire all the time, and voltage from
>the green/red wire in the 'run' position. Am I missing something
>here (besides 14 volts when running....but...never mind)? I think I'll
>have my friend pickup a new voltage reg and see how that works.
>Thanks again to everyone for their help.
>Ohio Bill
>

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 15:00:20 -0400
From: "Clem Salek"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Oil sending unit

Yea...my mistake. I guess my point was that it screws to the block.



Clem writes: >>The oil pressure sending unit shouldn't be a problem, as it
screws to the
side of the block.

Not on my 460's. It is behind the intake on top of the block.

You are thinking of FE, I think. Maybe Windsor also - not sure there.

It should still fit, regardless of engine or location. Just don't try to
drive
a gauge off a "Idiot light" unit. It must be for a gauge.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 16:26:31 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Armor all removal

Remains me a few years ago I drove my ford truck to my local exhust shop
for some work. Walk in and the owner was on crutchs with a broken leg. Ask
what happen and he pointed to his shiney Harley in the corner. Said Armor
All works good on everything except the tires. He had Armor All the sides
of his tires
and when the took a corner down it went breaking his leg.

Glad you and not me.

Larry

At 01:49 PM 9/17/99 -0700, you wrote:
>You should have seen what I did in my younger days! I thought Armor All was
>cool and I put it on everything, including the gas, brake and clutch pedals.
>My poor feet didn't know what to do. I sanded them to remove it. Not much
>help for your dash but they say that laugher is good medicine.
>
>Good Luck
>Scott
>1966 F-100 Shortbox 351C
>
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>
>

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 16:33:49 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 360 vs 390

I've never heard of any weakness in the 390 rods. I have a 390 and am very
happy with it. It is a very good all around truck motor. The prevailing
wisdom on this list from past discussions is that the 390 will give better
torque and about the same gas mileage as a 360. So if you have a choice why
not go with the extra cubes. You'll never regret it.

Tom H

> ----------
> From: SMOKEY5209 aol.com[SMTP:SMOKEY5209 aol.com]
> Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 7:46 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 vs 390
>
> I am ready to rebuild the engine for my truck and have been seeking
> opinions
> as to whether rebuild it as a 360 or a 390. I have been given various
> avenues
> of thought, one is that the 360 is known to have a weak crank, and the
> other
> is that the 390 has weak connecting rods.
> Before I spend the money it takes to go either way, I would like some
> input
> from the FTE users.
> Also is there an advantage to pocket porting the heads, I have conflicting
>
> opinions on this also.
> The truck will be used for a street truck, for show and go.
> Thanks in advance
> Ed
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>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 19:32:31 -0500
From: "mstrawn"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Leaf spring bushings

I am going to replace the suspension bushings in my 77 F-100. I want to
start with the leaf springs since they seem to be the most worn out. Does
anyone have some advise for making this less painfull than it looks? I have
received the full Prothane set for the entire truck and would like to make
this happen before hunting season opens here in Oklahoma.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 20:32:04 -0400
From: Greg Fisher
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Questions about engine choices

Hi. New to list. Have a question. I have a '68 F100 longbed that my
Grandfather bought new. Has 2V 360/C6. The 360 could use a rebuild. The
options I've been considering are:
1) rebuild the 360 with 4V and a cam that get more from it. Will 4V heads
be needed to match the new intake?
2) Going to 390. Can the 360 be bored and stroked to make it a 390 or is
this a waste of time and should I just find a 390 block.
3) My Dad has 2 '70 2V 351C. Rebuild one of these, but change to 4V. New
heads also? I know Edlebrock makes an intake to use a 4 barrel carb with 2
barrel heads, but would the switch to the 4 barrel carb heads be better?
Thanks in advance.

Greg Fisher
'68 F100 longbed


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 18:02:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: canzus seanet.com
Subject: Re: E: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions

At 08:04 AM 17:9:99 -0500, bkirking bcm.tmc.edu wrote:

>For someone who has never done it before, I think a weekend is probably an
>optimistic guess. Especially if a parts run is needed. Few places have FE
>components on the shelf.
>
>Bryan Kirking

When I worked as a semi-pro engine builder I built 2 a-day, I can
still build an engine in about 5 hours, If I have to...

Steve & the Rockette
63 F100
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600, soon to be a 302
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
97 Contour, Mine

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 18:27:23 -0700
....


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