From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #333
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61-79-list-digest Friday, September 17 1999 Volume 03 : Number 333



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - KR Shelby
Re: FTE 61-79 - Blow by?
FTE 61-79 - Re: Rollbacks
RE: FTE 61-79 - Prep for winter storage
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re 427
FTE 61-79 - Grills swapping
FTE 61-79 - CJ gets some work out of Wish
Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Grills swapping
RE: FTE 61-79 - Prep for winter storage
Re: FTE 61-79 - CJ gets some work out of Wish
FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part III
RE: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
FTE 61-79 - Temp Sensor
RE: FTE 61-79 - Temp Sensor
RE: FTE 61-79 - Grills swapping
FTE 61-79 - 78-79 460 header/exhaust manifolds
RE: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear
Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part III
Re: FTE 61-79 - Grills swapping
RE: FTE 61-79 - 78-79 460 header/exhaust manifolds
RE: FTE 61-79 - 78-79 460 header/exhaust manifolds
RE: FTE 61-79 - 78-79 460 header/exhaust manifolds
FTE 61-79 - Sparky distributors
FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions
RE: FTE 61-79 - Sparky distributors
FTE 61-79 - My truck and Floyd
RE: FTE 61-79 - Temp Sensor
RE: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
FTE 61-79 - Armor all removal
Re: FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part III
RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - My truck and Floyd
FTE 61-79 - rust
FTE 61-79 - sloppy stick
Re: FTE 61-79 - rust
Re: FTE 61-79 - My truck and Floyd
FTE 61-79 - Re: Blow by?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Armor all removal
Re: FTE 61-79 - rust
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sparky distributors

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 02:40:36 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - KR Shelby

King of the Road..believe it or not!

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, September 14, 1999 5:54 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - KR Shelby


>You folks have been very good about deciphering different VIN's and such
now I
>have another one for you... One of My Son-in-laws is looking for a GT500
Shelby.
>What we need to know is what does the KR code mean??? 2 4bbls or what???
>
>We will go get it with one of our many Ford F series trucks .... FTE
content.



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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 02:52:23 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Blow by?

Just out of curiosity have you checked the PCV?

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: David.R.John deluxe.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, September 14, 1999 2:27 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Blow by?


>Hi all,
>
>I have been on the list for about 2 years, but I have been away for the
>last 4 months, while I relocated from Wisconsin to Minnesota. My problem
>is my 78 F250 4x4 supercab with a 460 and 4 speed. I bought it 2 years ago
>from a guy who had swapped in a newly overhauled 460 just prior to me
>buying the truck. He seems to have done a very good job with it and the
>motor was rebuilt by a reputable outfit (however they would not transfer
>the warrantee to me when I bought the truck). The motor has always taken
>some oil which I did not like, but it was not leaking on the driveway and I
>couldn't detect it burning any (smell, blue smoke). My father said that
>the rings probably didn't seat and what I have gathered from the list this
>could be very true. He and you all have suggested driving the heck out of
>it, but to no avail. Now the engine wants blow my dipstick out and puke
>oil all over my engine. I have checked and replaced the PCV valve to no
>effect either. My question to all you great minds is what is going on, and
>how do I fix it?
>
>My dad said that some of the chev?! guys he would run against would have to
>dump bonami down their carb to get their rings to seat. This may be some
>urban legend, but I thought the great Azie mentioned this before (it may
>have been a joke on his part) too. Can this hurt to try if I am going to
>have to tear down to motor anyway?
>
>The motor probably has 10,000 miles on it now since the over haul, and
>without taping my dipstick down it uses 2 qts per 300-400 miles.



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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 07:48:24 -0400
From: Steve Schaefer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rollbacks

>
> So who has experince owning a rollback (flatbed). I see late 70's F-350
> big block rollbacks going for 5-6000$. What is the weight carrying limit
> of a typical rollback? Might be easier (and about the same cost
> overall) to sell my tow vehcile (79 Bronc), not build a 460 for it and
> sell the full size flat trailer I just got. Might even be able to make
> some extra money after I weed out my 1000 new friends :-)
>
> OX

Hey OX,
I am doing just that right now. I just bought a 76 crew cab that I am going to use
for towing. Let me tell you, that is one long wheel base. I am going to run a
flatbed (not a roll back) because I don't want to deal with the maintenance of the
hydraulic system of a roll back + I would have to buy the rollback and they are
expensive new or used. I have looked into rollbacks and the carrying capacity is
usually around 9000 lbs. Make sure that the trucks GVW can support this. I am
going to power my beast with a 460 and hope that will be enough.
BTW I have allot of friend just because of the truck and trailer, I can only imagine
what new friends will come out of the wood work:-).
Steve S
77 F-250 super cab
76 F-350 crew cab flatbed
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/

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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 05:38:10 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Prep for winter storage

Why are squirrels thought to be "cute" while rats are hated. They're both
rodents. Does a bushy tail make that much difference. You betcha.
Appearance does matter.
BTW Squirrels do carry the Plague. Let your sig other know that next time
she wants to feed them in the house. ;0)

Tom H

> ----------
> From: David Wadson[SMTP:wadsond air.on.ca]
> Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 6:50 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Prep for winter storage
>
> >Someone writes: >>And follow the previous advice about rodent
> protection, I
> >have also heard of racoons and squirells making a mess of your wiring,
> >never had
> >it happen to me tho.
> >
> >My Father-in-law Is really an old man and doesn't drive much anymore -
> >probably
> >less than 2000 miles/year. Anyway to make a long story short, mice or
> rats or
> >squirrels (rodents at any rate) ate some of the wiring insulation off it
> >between
> >startups last year. I spent 1/2 day seperating and re-wraping the engine
> >harness wires. Was a really pain in the rear. I had heard of it
> previously,
> >but that was my 1st experience. My vehicles don't usually sit long
> enough to
> >get cool, much less have rodents make a home in it.
>
> I had squirrels stuff my dash with chewed up pink fibreglass insulation
> from the garage walls when my significant other left the rear slider open.
> Which she had done so that she could boost herself up to the rafters above
> to put sunflower seeds there for the squirrels...
>
> Luckily they never chewed any of the wires though it did take a while to
> pick all the insulation out...
>
>
> David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
> "PS2" - 78 F100/302/C4
> Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
>
>
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>
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 05:44:44 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re 427

Actually in that same table on the same line it lists Shelbly aluminum heads
as a part of the assembly so I think (hope) the $25K was for an assembled
engine.
Tom H

> ----------
> From: William A Whited[SMTP:f10074 ford-trucks.com]
> Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 9:00 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re 427
>
> Ken, At the bottom of the engine and heads page it lists new aluminum
> 427
> blocks for $25,000.00.
>
> --
> William A Whited
> 74 F100 RANGER SUPERCAB 390
> 77 F150 CUSTOM 460
> SEMPER FI
>
>
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>
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:50:02 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Grills swapping

Joe asks: >>Hey folks, quick question. Will a 73-77 grill bolt up to a 78 or 79
truck?

I don't think so UNLESS you change the radiator core support also(the cross
piece that the radiator mounts to), The parking lamps and the headlamps are in
different locations, and they are attached to the radiator core support.

Azie
Ardmorfe, Al.


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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 10:16:46 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - CJ gets some work out of Wish

Got Wish to help put in a set of Sanderson shorty headers on this 428
yesterday....the headers needed a little "modification" in order to get them
on the passenger side, namely a small "ding" put into the collector so it
would clear the oil pan flange. It occurred to me, that after dealing with
the "long style" (Cyclone's) headers for 20 years, how come the shorties
haven't been used as much? Like, why doesn't Hooker or someone offer them as
an alternative to big tubes???? All I can say is the shorties take up SOOOOO
much less room and are SOOOO much easier to install.....

After this, we hit the local "Ford truck goldmine" junkyard....lots of good
stuff there....Wish is headed back over there today to pick up a couple of
COMPLETE sway bar setups (front and rear)....

Dave R. is going to stop by tonight, and Wish and I are going to try and
convince him of the advantages of FE's over the M-blocks.....don't think
we'll have much success, though!!!!!! Dave told me last night that "Not just
anyone can have an M-block".....

Anyway, its been a good time having Wish out here visit....this List is
great! If anyone else is passing through here, be sure to let me know!

CJ (Colorado Jeff)
Wish (Bill Hart)
Dave R. (M-Block Devotee, soon to be FE Man)
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 07:20:32 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?

Thanks for your message at 04:04 PM 9/15/99 -0600, Matthew Senn. Your
message was:
>. hope this helps (of course, any knowledge is better than no knowledge)

"..a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing."--Samuel Coleridge

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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 01:55:14 -0400
From: Brian Bobrowski
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Grills swapping

A 73-75 grills are interchangable and should change with 76-77 I think
but 78-79 are much different. They all mount in diffent ways and the
78-79 is a totaly diffent type of grill being a 4 piece grill instead of
a 3 piece

am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote:
>
> Joe asks: >>Hey folks, quick question. Will a 73-77 grill bolt up to a 78 or 79
> truck?
>
> I don't think so UNLESS you change the radiator core support also(the cross
> piece that the radiator mounts to), The parking lamps and the headlamps are in
> different locations, and they are attached to the radiator core support.
>
> Azie
> Ardmorfe, Al.
>
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 10:40:51 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Prep for winter storage

They don't just eat truck wiring either. Unless you want to rewire the
garage I suggest you don't encourage them to go there :-( (Coons too) Coons
will make the same kind of mess a rat or mouse will, just much, much bigger
:-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> rodents. Does a bushy tail make that much difference. You betcha.
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 08:19:29 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - CJ gets some work out of Wish

- -----Original Message-----
From: BDIJXS aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, September 16, 1999 7:19 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - CJ gets some work out of Wish



>Dave R. is going to stop by tonight, and Wish and I are going to try and
>convince him of the advantages of FE's over the M-blocks.....don't think
>we'll have much success, though!!!!!! Dave told me last night that "Not
just
>anyone can have an M-block".....

Now Dave I expect you to be strong and not give in to the Dark side. It's
easy to run around saying "Look how much horsepower I got just by swapping
in this giant hunk o' iron." It takes talent, imagination and a certain
masochistic streak to coax the horsepower and driveability out of a smogged
out piece of doo-doo like the M block. I'll be with you in spirit if not in
the flesh so don't give up the good fight!

BTW my pistons arrived on Monday...400 flat tops...woo hoo! It's off to the
machine shop for final honing and balancing...


>Dave R. (M-Block Devotee, soon to be FE Man)


Not in this lifetime bubba!


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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 11:25:29 -0400
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part III

Hi all,
I checked the green wire w/ red stripe this morning. It has
12 volts when the key is in the 'run' position. I also
checked continuity (for the 5th time) in the orange (field)
wire from the Volt reg to the alternator. It's good (ie no breaks).
This leads me to the conclusion that the voltage reg is no good.
However, this same voltage reg is back in my truck, and works fine
(I KNOW this particular volt reg is good b/c I just put 100+
miles on my truck in 2 days with it).

It doesn't seem logical that a voltage reg would work fine in one 1968
Ford truck but not another. At this point I can't see what else it could
be.
The volt reg has power from the yellow wire all the time, and voltage from
the green/red wire in the 'run' position. Am I missing something
here (besides 14 volts when running....but...never mind)? I think I'll
have my friend pickup a new voltage reg and see how that works.
Thanks again to everyone for their help.
Ohio Bill
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:14:39 -0400
From: "Clem Salek"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?

A few years back, I installed a C6/460 with only an auxiliary tranny cooler
(no radiator cooling) and this is my experience: I used the biggest GWV
cooler I could find. I plow the truck heavily, (really stack some heavy,
wet snow for hours on end, and and shifting all the time), and once while
plowing for 32 hours non-stop, the tranny started acting up. It was all of
a sudden a few quarts low, and tranny fluid was all over the ground. It
never stopped working. I'm guessing that it came out of the dipstick, but
couldn't tell begause it was so dark. I kept the C6/460 combination in for
a few years, would change the fluid and filter every year, and it started
shifting funny. Friends told me that this was a common problem, and
changing the governor would help. It didn't. I ended up swapping out the
C6 for a NP435, and sold the tranny for $50. What I should have done is
install a temperaure gauge to keep an eye on the inlet side of the tranny
line going into the transmission. The optimum temperature for the
transmission is 180-200F. when the temperature starts getting in above
200-210F range, seals start cooking and the fluid breaks down. Note that it
is equally important for the transmission not to run too cool. For this
reason, the winter months (if applicable) can be bad as well. Use a guage
at first, and if things dont work out, ad the radiator cooler as well.
Note: using a aftermarket tranny filter (Summit Racing has them) can only
help. Good Luck


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of GMontgo930 aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 8:36 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?


Ive seen a 74 Pinto wagon converted from Std transmission to auto using just
a MDB (Mighty Damm Big) tranny cooler (not the factory one mounted in the
radiator). As long as you have enough heat transfer (ie surface area and air
flow) it should work fine. On the flip side, I dont know of anyone that's
dont it in a truck with a C6.
That's my $1.295 worth!

George

In a message dated 9/15/99 5:19:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
David.R.John deluxe.com writes:


it? I'm not talking about an auxilary cooler (which I will have to do if
this does not work). This is for my conversion from 4spd to C6 and I have
a great oversized rad in my truck (previous owner said it was from a
diesel) and I have AC so I don't think there is room for the auxilary. My
donor (the one with the auto) truck's rad looks a little rough and I don't
really want to buy one. If this is not an option, is a heavy duty auxilary
tranny cooler enough to keep my C6 happy??

Thanks for all your help!! >>
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 10:13:48 -0600
From: Bret Godfrey
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Temp Sensor

Hello all,

I have a 460 out of a 76 LTD with an Edlebrock aluminum intake in my 77
f50. I would really like to get rid of the edlebrock guages and hook up
my stock gauges, the two that I am really concerned with are the temp
gauge and the oil presure gauge. Is it possible to find the right
thermocouple from another 77' truck that will screw into my edelbrock
intake? Also what can I do about the oil presure gauge? any help would
be greatly appreciated.

Bret G.
77' f250 4x4
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:47:59 -0400
From: "Clem Salek"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Temp Sensor

The temp. sensor (sending unit)is a standard thread size and type. Any temp
sensor (say a sending unit for a 78 351M) will work with the existing ford
gauges and the aluminum intake usually has plenty of places to screw it in.
The oil pressure sending unit shouldn't be a problem, as it screws to the
side of the block.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Bret Godfrey
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 12:14 PM
To: '61-79-list'
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Temp Sensor


Hello all,

I have a 460 out of a 76 LTD with an Edlebrock aluminum intake in my 77
f50. I would really like to get rid of the edlebrock guages and hook up
my stock gauges, the two that I am really concerned with are the temp
gauge and the oil presure gauge. Is it possible to find the right
thermocouple from another 77' truck that will screw into my edelbrock
intake? Also what can I do about the oil presure gauge? any help would
be greatly appreciated.

Bret G.
77' f250 4x4
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 10:05:37 -0400
From: "Clem Salek"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Grills swapping

A buddy of mine did this without changing the whole radiator support piece,
but you have to take all the rear headlight support buckets off the 73-77
and bolt them onto the 78-79 radiator support. It's sort of a pain...
measuring everything, etc. He had to because the 78-79 grille also
contained an complete AC condenser, and had extra cooling holes in it.
Lining up the headlights so that everything looks OK takes a little time.


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Brian Bobrowski
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 1:55 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Grills swapping


A 73-75 grills are interchangable and should change with 76-77 I think
but 78-79 are much different. They all mount in diffent ways and the
78-79 is a totaly diffent type of grill being a 4 piece grill instead of
a 3 piece

am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote:
>
> Joe asks: >>Hey folks, quick question. Will a 73-77 grill bolt up to a 78
or 79
> truck?
>
> I don't think so UNLESS you change the radiator core support also(the
cross
> piece that the radiator mounts to), The parking lamps and the headlamps
are in
> different locations, and they are attached to the radiator core support.
>
> Azie
> Ardmorfe, Al.
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 10:34:14 -0400
From: "Clem Salek"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78-79 460 header/exhaust manifolds

I've been running L&L headers (fenderwell exit) headers in my '79 350. I
want convert to a shorty header or some 460/429 cast iron (stock) manifold.
Does anyone know which shorty headers will fit the best? Are there any cast
iron manifolds that fit this application, or has anyone tried to accomplish
this? I've tried a set of 77 lincoln manifolds, but the right side is too
wide, and there is frame interference. I'd either have to raise the motor,
or modify the frame. If I had a choice, I'd want to find a set manifolds
that fit.

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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:57:53 PDT
From: "Art Verling"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear

FTE 61-79 - 9" rear

High Plains Drifter - eh - Richards writes: >>PS what is the
easiest way to
identify a 9 inch rear???

No rear cover/inspection plate. "Chunk" comes out the front
(driveshaft end) as
a complete 3rd member assy. Ford made an 8" that also carried
this design and
looks exactly like it, but the bottom nut on the 9"can only be
removed with a
boxend or openend wrench as you can't get a socket on it, but
will go on an 8".

Hope this helps.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

I just went through this with my 64. The nut on the bottom is the key to to
this. It is the only wat to tell from the outside. Just like Azie said the
bottom nut on the 9"can't be removed with a deep socket on it.
Art
art.verling excite.com




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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 11:22:09 -0600
From: "Matthew Senn"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?

hmm, ok, but . . .

"Every man gets a narrower and narrower field of knowledge in which he must
be an expert in order to compete with other people. The specialist knows
more and more
about less and less and finally knows everything about nothing." - Konrad
Lorenz


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Pearson
To:
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?


> Thanks for your message at 04:04 PM 9/15/99 -0600, Matthew Senn. Your
> message was:
> >. hope this helps (of course, any knowledge is better than no knowledge)
>
> "..a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing."--Samuel Coleridge
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 10:35:49 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part III

William King wrote:

> [ Friends alternator is driving me nuts! ]

Bill, I pulled this from your posting a while back:

>> First, when the truck's running, it only has 12-12.5 volts at the
>> battery (using my trusty voltage meter) and the alternator light
>> glows red. When you put the lights on, voltage drops to about
>> 11.5 volts. We pulled and tested the alternator (at a parts store.
>> They said it was fine). I even swapped the alternator from my
>> truck (which I know is good) onto his. No difference. Next, I
>> swapped voltage regulators. The only difference w/ mine is that
>> his alternator light doesn't glow.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I assume that you mean the light never glows, even with the key
on/engine not running. This means there is no field connection
from the "I" term to the "F" term. This is essential for the
alternator to start when it begins turning. So, with YOUR
regulator, the alt light is off all the time, which means -
NO field current. No field current, no charge!

> It doesn't seem logical that a voltage reg would work fine in
> one 1968 Ford truck but not another.

In my last post, I went over the differences in the ammeter/idiot
light wiring. Finding the above statements makes me wonder - does
your truck use an ammeter? If yes, maybe what you're dealing with
is the fact that the regulators are also different! They don't
need to be, but in order to save $.000001/vehicle, they could be!

The only other thing I can think of here is that the regulator
isn't grounded properly (Ground return for idiot light is thru
the regulator ground). Did you check this? My truck has a ground
wire from a regulator mounting bolt to the alternator case.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2004 13:57:18 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Grills swapping

Ok, I must be on crack!

Are we talking about a 73-79 Ford fullsize trucks right? I took the
original poster of the question to use the term "grill" to mean the entire
front aluminum shell, plastics, turnsignals, etc. I have done this swap
both ways-- from a 73 to a 78, and a 79 to a 76.

No, you do not need to change the core supports. Yes the aluminum shells
look different but have the exact same mounting points. No, you do not
have to change core supports, Yes, you have to drill holes in the opposite
core support for the new headlight brackets, and yes, it can be done with
ease.

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

At 01:55 AM 9/16/99 -0400, you wrote:
>A 73-75 grills are interchangable and should change with 76-77 I think
>but 78-79 are much different. They all mount in diffent ways and the
>78-79 is a totaly diffent type of grill being a 4 piece grill instead of
>a 3 piece
>
>am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote:
>>
>> Joe asks: >>Hey folks, quick question. Will a 73-77 grill bolt up to a 78
>or 79
>> truck?
>>
>> I don't think so UNLESS you change the radiator core support also(the cross
>> piece that the radiator mounts to), The parking lamps and the headlamps
>are in
>> different locations, and they are attached to the radiator core support.
>>
>> Azie
>> Ardmorfe, Al.

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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 14:02:04 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 78-79 460 header/exhaust manifolds

TRUCK manifolds, any truck manifold, van or pickup, right side only, left
side is the same in all applications, $193 from the dealer :-) (or is that
:-(....)

Why do you want to convert? Most of us are putting them on, not taking them
off? How do the fender exit headers work, fit wise along the frame etc.? I
was thinking along this line for my next 460 in a bronco. Going to use the
tri-Y type, Stan's or Sandersons (That's my thinking right now at least :-))

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I've been running L&L headers (fenderwell exit) headers in my
> '79 350. I
> want convert to a shorty header or some 460/429 cast iron
> (stock) manifold.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 13:02:34 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 78-79 460 header/exhaust manifolds

You need a set of truck manifolds for the 460. I have a Lincoln 460 in my
'78 F150 and the right side clears the frame. There is a guy in Minneapolis
that had a set for sale for $75 if your interested I could check to see if
they're available.

-----Original Message-----
From: Clem Salek [mailto:c_salek gpinet.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 9:34 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78-79 460 header/exhaust
manifolds

I've been running L&L headers (fenderwell exit) headers in
my '79 350. I
want convert to a shorty header or some 460/429 cast iron
(stock) manifold.
Does anyone know which shorty headers will fit the best?
Are there any cast
iron manifolds that fit this application, or has anyone
tried to accomplish
this? I've tried a set of 77 lincoln manifolds, but the
right side is too
wide, and there is frame interference. I'd either have to
raise the motor,
or modify the frame. If I had a choice, I'd want to find a
set manifolds
that fit.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 13:28:30 -0400
From: "Clem Salek"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 78-79 460 header/exhaust manifolds

My tires rub the headers at full lock, and I'd need to install a larger
suspension lift to get this problem resolved (or adjust the steering stops).
Doing so would decrease my driveability, as I occasionally get pulled over
for height restrictions as it is. As far as headers go, these L&L headers
are well built, and are very rugged. I've had them on the truck a while,
and although they are rusted, they are not rotted. I'm running a 1 1/2"
body lift, and the only adjustment I had to make is to move the windwhield
washer bottle up an inch or so to allow clearance. The more body lift you
have, the better the fit will be. they tuck just under the front cab mount,
and I've run some 3" pipe (use an old rollbar if you have one) They are
perfect for running 3" pipe along the frame, into a 3" muffler, and they
exit just before the rear tire. On a typical rollbar, use two rearward bars
for the exhaust tips. The bends in these rearward bars at the tops are
perfect for your exhaust turn-outs. The left and right side rollbar tubes
can be used to form the section between the header flange and the muffler.
Find a 3" collector flange, weld this onto one end of the left and right
side rollbar tube. cut the other end as necessary, put the muffler on this
end, and its a done deal...great use of old rollbar stock, its plenty
rugged, and mine was chrome to boot!. Everything can be stick welded! (no
MIG!)


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Peters, Gary
(G.R.)
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 2:02 PM
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 78-79 460 header/exhaust manifolds


TRUCK manifolds, any truck manifold, van or pickup, right side only, left
side is the same in all applications, $193 from the dealer :-) (or is that
:-(....)

Why do you want to convert? Most of us are putting them on, not taking them
off? How do the fender exit headers work, fit wise along the frame etc.? I
was thinking along this line for my next 460 in a bronco. Going to use the
tri-Y type, Stan's or Sandersons (That's my thinking right now at least :-))

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I've been running L&L headers (fenderwell exit) headers in my
> '79 350. I
> want convert to a shorty header or some 460/429 cast iron
> (stock) manifold.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 20:46:32 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Henderson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sparky distributors

all right, question for the group. With the key in the run position=20
and the engine not running, should the distributor produce sparks=20
arcing from the distributor shaft to the block when the distributor is=20
pulled from the block? I should point out that all of the connections=20
were still there (coil wire and Duraspark stuff). I noticed this this=20
weekend when I was playing with the tooth placement of the=20
distributor. Thanks in advance for the info!!

Dave H

- --=20
_
_| ~~. David Henderson
\, _} DHenders VT.Edu
\( Gig 'em Aggies! '93
Beat Tulsa!!

Currently at:
Interdepartmental Genetics Program
2010 Litton Reaves Hall
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
Blacksburg, VA 24061
(540)231-4773
(540)231-5014
DHenders VT.Edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dasc.vt.edu/henderson/dhenderson.html



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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 15:53:25 EDT
From: Dlkiehl aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions

I bought this truck a few months ago having been told that the engine was
running fine when it was parked. Well, that's the risk you take. Win some,
lose some. It runs, yes, but after warming up it has no oil pressure and
smokes. So I'm assuming a complete rebuild is in order. I was given a
price of $1500+, which is what I paid for the truck in the first place. Are
rebuild parts readily available? Would I be better off getting a used but
more modern engine and trans (say a 5.0)? If so, what would fit and where do
I get engine mounts etc.? This will not be a show truck, but is relatively
straight. I'd like to make it a decent, usable driver. From the prices I
see on similar trucks I can't justify getting into this too deeply ($).

Any experiences or opinions would be appreciated.

Darryl Kiehl
Atlanta
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 16:18:31 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Sparky distributors

yes. Definately if it is a points dist. I'm not so sure about a duraspark
unit. The points dist grounds the neg side of coil thru the points to the
frame of the dist. If the points are closed while pulling the dist then
when the dist frame breaks contact with the block it is as if the points
opened.

Tom H.

> ----------
> From: David Henderson[SMTP:DHenders VT.Edu]
> Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 4:46 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sparky distributors
>
> all right, question for the group. With the key in the run position
> and the engine not running, should the distributor produce sparks
> arcing from the distributor shaft to the block when the distributor is
> pulled from the block? I should point out that all of the connections
> were still there (coil wire and Duraspark stuff). I noticed this this
> weekend when I was playing with the tooth placement of the
> distributor. Thanks in advance for the info!!
>
> Dave H
>
> --
> _
> _| ~~. David Henderson
> \, _} DHenders VT.Edu
> \( Gig 'em Aggies! '93
> Beat Tulsa!!
>
> Currently at:
> Interdepartmental Genetics Program
> 2010 Litton Reaves Hall
> Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
> Blacksburg, VA 24061
> (540)231-4773
> (540)231-5014
> DHenders VT.Edu
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dasc.vt.edu/henderson/dhenderson.html
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 14:01:04 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - My truck and Floyd

Hey, guys, Floyd got me. Water was up to my door, but luckily did not come
in the house. Whew!!!. To give you an idea of the flooding, The stream
near my house is normally 6 inches deep and 4 feet accross. When I got
near but on the wrong side from my home it was 120 feet accross and 15 feet
deep. I had to go another route home, going through water 3 feet deep
several times, and the final obstacle was a bridge with water 1 foot over
it. I punched the 400 and lept accross. Saved the cats and stayed with my
neighbors, water is now subsiding rapidly..

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Nissan 300ZX
IsuzuG prodigy.net

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 18:28:11 -0400
From: Marvin & Michelle Meyer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Temp Sensor

Bret; I don't quite understand what you are doing. Did the gauges come with
the Edle from Edl or come from car. If you have any sending unit from a
gauge packaged truck( instead of idiot lights) then just thread them into
the proper holes either using excising threads, or pipe reducers ( 1/4 X
3/8 ). The oil presurre sending unit on the back of the block, if it is a
small unit comparable in size to the water temp unit, then that is for
lights and if you have a guage instead of light then it will need to be
changed. They are larger in size for the gauged truck/car and pep boys or
up here in Canada, Canadian Tire carries them for $8.00
Best regards,
Marvin
meyer stratford.webgate.net


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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 19:01:51 -0400
From: Marvin & Michelle Meyer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?

.
If this is not an option, is a heavy duty auxiliary
tranny cooler enough to keep my C6 happy??

On my 302 equipped supercab 150 pulling my 5200# T-bird around, I've never
had any trouble what so ever for over 30k miles it still shifts rock hard
(2-3). The reduction of added heat from your tranny will enhance your own
radiator and A/c system any ways. My cooler is not HD is only measures 8 x
8" Medium size. I've completely taken the Trans off the rad and directly
hooked up to cooler. Thermodynamics tells me it's better than heated to 192
degrees and then cooled off before going back onto the top of the Trans at
a slow flow..
Marvin
meyer stratford.webgate.net


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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 16:22:41 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Armor all removal

Just bought a new old car (94 T-bird). The # *(U$#*)!*&%&* detailer
armor-alled the dash before I could tell them not to. Now the dash is shiny
and when the sun is at the right angle the only thing I can see in the
sloped back windshield is the top of the dash. Who knows how to wash this
worthless, dash-cracking, bull-byproduct off my new car?

Someone used this stuff on my F-150 and the dash promptly opened up like the
grand canyon. (mandatory FTE content);0)

Tom H
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 16:31:23 -0700
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Still Not charging. Part III

Pat Brown wrote:

> I assume that you mean the light never glows, even with the key
> on/engine not running. This means there is no field connection
> from the "I" term to the "F" term. This is essential for the
> alternator to start when it begins turning. So, with YOUR
> regulator, the alt light is off all the time, which means -
> NO field current. No field current, no charge!
> --
> Pat Brown
> Sebastopol, California

I was leaving the gauge/ light out altogether.

1 test would be to use a jumper wire and give the Field 12v manually and
watch the meter. If the battery is down enough you could tell by the pull
on the engine. That trick worked on a little 4 banger jeep. Alternator
would cut in and out found the loose wire in the harness that way

Here they are again for reference with out any Gauges involved

"I" should be direct source of 12v from ignition switch

"A" should be the capacitor/( this would also go the idiot light if there
is one)

"S" this wire should go to the Stator post on the alternator

"F" is the for the Field post on the alternator.

1 wire on the Alternator will go to the Battery " Bat"

And the last one is the ground ( frame, battery any good ground)

If all of these are correctly hooked up and the regulator tests good, it
has to be the alternator

Sorry for going back to the beginning but sometimes it helps
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4
43 GPW


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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 16:32:22 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions

The 352 is part of the FE family (352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428). The
FE family has good reliability when not worn out. 1500 bucks doesn't sound
like too much to investment for a rebuilt motor. You may want to check the
quality of the rebuilder. Parts are redily available and most (if not all)
external FE accessories will swap (manifold, dist, headers etc). You might
check with Performance Automotive Wholesale (ads in any hotrod mag) to see
what they have (It is a lot!!).
As far as swaps go any of the above will swap as easy as removing the old
motor and bolting the new one in. Any other swap will entail expense for
mounts accessories etc.
You need to evaluate the truck and estimate how much life is left in the
trans, body and interior. If all you need is a rebuilt motor and the $1500
unit is of good quality then $3000 for a total truck that will go another
100K miles doesn't seem like much to me. Also you probably know better what
this truck needs as aposed to another one.

Tom H.

> ----------
> From: Dlkiehl aol.com[SMTP:Dlkiehl aol.com]
> Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 3:53 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100 needs 352 engine rebuild - questions
>
> I bought this truck a few months ago having been told that the engine was
> running fine when it was parked. Well, that's the risk you take. Win
> some,
> lose some. It runs, yes, but after warming up it has no oil pressure and
> smokes. So I'm assuming a complete rebuild is in order. I was given a
> price of $1500+, which is what I paid for the truck in the first place.
> Are
> rebuild parts readily available? Would I be better off getting a used but
>
> more modern engine and trans (say a 5.0)? If so, what would fit and where
> do
> I get engine mounts etc.? This will not be a show truck, but is
> relatively
> straight. I'd like to make it a decent, usable driver. From the prices I
>
> see on similar trucks I can't justify getting into this too deeply ($).
>
> Any experiences or opinions would be appreciated.
>
> Darryl Kiehl
> Atlanta
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 20:07:19 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - My truck and Floyd

Glad to hear you made out ok, Best wishes to anyone that didnt fare as well
as you.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 18:16:31 PDT
From: "gene gardner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rust

I just got a new job in Wisconsin and need some advice from you North Woods
boys: How do I protect my Texas truck from rust? Is it worth the money to do
a Ziebart-type spray job? BTW it sure is beautiful country up here ...

Gene Gardner, Texican Teacher
70 F100 w/300 I-6



______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 18:25:55 PDT
From: "gene gardner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - sloppy stick

Gang -- the stick shift on my 3-speed standard (toploader, I think) is
getting a little sloppy. The tranny seems OK, it's just that there's some
play and a little vibration from the shaft itself, plus it's a little harder
to find the gears sometimes. Could this be a simple matter of a loose
connection or is it a warning sign for something more serious? The oil (50W
per list suggestions) level is fine. TIA

Gene Gardner, Texican Teacher
70 F100 w/300 I-6

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 20:37:23 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - rust

gene gardner wrote:
>
> I just got a new job in Wisconsin and need some advice from you North Woods
> boys: How do I protect my Texas truck from rust?

Leave the truck in Texas. It's the only way!

Jason
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 22:21:27 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - My truck and Floyd

George, be sure to grease all the parts on your truck and change fluids
in your gearcases. Repack the wheel bearings, also. We had some heavy
rains here in Iowa in '93 and I drove through it all! What a blast! That
is, untill things started to break. Because of water(and neglect) I had
to replace all the wheel bearings, tie rods, drag link, one U-joint, and
had one kingpin freeze up. I think if I'd have greased/oiled my truck
like I should have, I wouldn't have had to change all that!

Jason




George W. Selby, III wrote:
>
> Hey, guys, Floyd got me. Water was up to my door, but luckily did not come
> in the house. Whew!!!. To give you an idea of the flooding, The stream
> near my house is normally 6 inches deep and 4 feet accross. When I got
> near but on the wrong side from my home it was 120 feet accross and 15 feet
> deep. I had to go another route home, going through water 3 feet deep
> several times, and the final obstacle was a bridge with water 1 foot over
> it. I punched the 400 and lept accross. Saved the cats and stayed with my
> neighbors, water is now subsiding rapidly..
>
> George Selby
> 78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
> 86 Nissan 300ZX
> IsuzuG prodigy.net
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 20:38:38 -0700
From: "Christeen Bradley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Blow by?

There is one problem that hasn't been mentioned yet and I hate to be the one
to bring it up but you could have some broken compression rings. A simple
compression test will work to know if this is your problem area. My friend
had a 71 Mach 1 with a 351C and he broke all the compression rings and he
had the same deal, Oil smoke out the dipstick tube, out the PVC, out
everywhere the crankcase was vented.


always taken
some oil which I did not like, but it was not leaking on the
driveway and I
couldn't detect it burning any (smell, blue smoke). >>
If your only burning a little oil, you won't see or smell it.
It could be the rings not seating but at the magnitude that you suggest and
I've seen, not likely.

Sorry and good luck,
Scott
1966 F-100 Shortbox 351C

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 00:11:19 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?

Good point about the temp gauge. Ive got a temp & pressure gauge installed
inline on the tranny fluid output line of my C6. I guess I kinda assume
everyone has em now (and I sorta like the Aircraft cockpit look). Dont know
what my input temp is, but my output temp is about 185-190 most times here in
Florida. It is nice to know when your working the tranny hard!

George

n a message dated 9/16/99 11:33:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
c_salek gpinet.com writes:


install a temperaure gauge to keep an eye on the inlet side of the tranny
line going into the transmission. The optimum temperature for the
transmission is 180-200F. when the temperature starts getting in above
200-210F range, seals start cooking and the fluid breaks down. Note that it
is equally important for the transmission not to run too cool. For this
reason, the winter months (if applicable) can be bad as well. Use a guage
at first, and if things dont work out, ad the radiator cooler as well.
Note: using a aftermarket tranny filter (Summit Racing has them) can only
help. Good Luck >>
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 01:54:38 EDT
From: Pyrate951 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Armor all removal

This is not going to help you but when I bought my truck (68 camper special)
the interior had just been redone and the morons and the dealership where I
bought it armor all the bench seat. I had to hold on every time I went a
round a conner.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 08:17:51 +0200
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - rust

You can ask your local Valvoline dealer about their Tectyl products...
there are thin stuff for channels, and thick stuff for underbody
protection. Really good stuff, if you repeat the treatment every 5 year or
so you will be pretty well protected from rust. Valvolines engineers shall
be able to tell you how to do these things, cleaning, and spraying the
coating on, and where to put it.
Here in Norway we have to do it to keep the cars... a dealer would never
sell a car here if not proteced from the first day.... so all new cars are
protected.

But of course, leaving the truck in Texas is one idea.... but it would
leave the northern states with no cars or trucks if everyone followed your
example.

Hope this helps.

Bill

- ----------
> From: Jason & Kathy Kendrick
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - rust
> Date: 17. september 1999 03:37
>
> gene gardner wrote:
> >
> > I just got a new job in Wisconsin and need some advice from you North
Woods
> > boys: How do I protect my Texas truck from rust?
>
> Leave the truck in Texas. It's the only way!
>
> Jason
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 10:21:46 +0200
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sparky distributors

Right, there is no spark when you send current through the coil, that means
points are closing, then it is charged, and the discharging comes when the
points opens or dist. is removed from engine.
But, with a Duraspark dist... hm... If I remember correct there is three
wires to the stuff inside dist. and one of them is ground, so it might be
that the semiconductors inside the controll box loose its controll curcuit
and act as an opening point, which will produce a spark... this is just a
thought.
Also, there is this difference between Duraspark I and Duraspark II, and if
I remember correct you can turn the ign. key on and off, and the controll
box shall produce 1 single spark, while on the Duraspark II system this
thing is eliminated, so there will be no spark.

Well, just some thoughts from me.

Bill

- ---------
> From: Hogan, Tom
> To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Sparky distributors....


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