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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #331
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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, September 15 1999 Volume 03 : Number 331



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Re 427
RE: FTE 61-79 - Blow by?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re 427
FTE 61-79 - The sweetest sound
FTE 61-79 - ?'s on reinforcing F-100 Frame for Towing
FTE 61-79 - Prep for winter storage
RE: FTE 61-79 - Blow by?
FTE 61-79 - 9" rear
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re 427
FTE 61-79 - Excess oil consumption
FTE 61-79 - C 6
FTE 61-79 - RE:Still not charging II
FTE 61-79 - Grills
FTE 61-79 - Re:Blow by?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Grills
RE: FTE 61-79 - ?'s on reinforcing F-100 Frame for Towing
Re: FTE 61-79 - ?'s on reinforcing F-100 Frame for Towing
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Still not charging II
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE:Still not charging II
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Still not charging II
Re: FTE 61-79 - ?'s on reinforcing F-100 Frame for Towing
FTE 61-79 - Re - 75 F250 4x4 steering
Re: FTE 61-79 - Grills
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Still not charging II
FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 71 F100 Steering
RE: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 71 F100 Steering
FTE 61-79 - buying rollback? (flatbed)
FTE 61-79 - bad idling and dying
Re: FTE 61-79 - Drivetrain help
FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Problem with that 427
FTE 61-79 - Blasted blaster2's... was "The sweetest sound"
Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
RE: FTE 61-79 - T5 installation, Chatter
Re: FTE 61-79 - Prep for winter storage
RE: FTE 61-79 - Posi rear
RE: FTE 61-79 - Ingnition Modulator
Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re 427

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 09:10:29
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re 427

>with a AC Cobra replica that said Ford is now producing the 427 as a new
>crate motor. I havent verified this but it seems they are getting them

I thought the FE motors were taken out of production in the mid 70s because
of smog laws? Next thing the government will dump the oil straight into the
sea so it won't cause any smog. Long live environmentalists ;-(



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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 07:38:34 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Blow by?

Wow, I have the same problem w/my 460 I swapped in a '78 F150 4x4! Under
load towing my Jeep, I get 350 miles per quart. With no load maybe 600 miles
until a quart is needed. And the dipstick pops out too. what gives? Before
putting engine in I replaced valve seals only and put in new gaskets.
Previous owner said it used no oil. Hmmmm.

-----Original Message-----
From: David.R.John deluxe.com
[mailto:David.R.John deluxe.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 1999 4:26 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Blow by?

Hi all,

I have been on the list for about 2 years, but I have been
away for the
last 4 months, while I relocated from Wisconsin to
Minnesota. My problem
is my 78 F250 4x4 supercab with a 460 and 4 speed. I bought
it 2 years ago
from a guy who had swapped in a newly overhauled 460 just
prior to me
buying the truck. He seems to have done a very good job
with it and the
motor was rebuilt by a reputable outfit (however they would
not transfer
the warrantee to me when I bought the truck). The motor has
always taken
some oil which I did not like, but it was not leaking on the
driveway and I
couldn't detect it burning any (smell, blue smoke). My
father said that
the rings probably didn't seat and what I have gathered from
the list this
could be very true. He and you all have suggested driving
the heck out of
it, but to no avail. Now the engine wants blow my dipstick
out and puke
oil all over my engine. I have checked and replaced the PCV
valve to no
effect either. My question to all you great minds is what
is going on, and
how do I fix it?

My dad said that some of the chev?! guys he would run
against would have to
dump bonami down their carb to get their rings to seat.
This may be some
urban legend, but I thought the great Azie mentioned this
before (it may
have been a joke on his part) too. Can this hurt to try if
I am going to
have to tear down to motor anyway?

The motor probably has 10,000 miles on it now since the over
haul, and
without taping my dipstick down it uses 2 qts per 300-400
miles.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!

David John
78 F250 4x4 Supercab 460 4spd
78 F250 4x4 400 C6 (parts truck for tranny swap)

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 06:05:57 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re 427

> ----------
> From: Bas van der Veer[SMTP:yl dds.nl]
> Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 5:10 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re 427
>
> >with a AC Cobra replica that said Ford is now producing the 427 as a new
> >crate motor. I havent verified this but it seems they are getting them
>
> I thought the FE motors were taken out of production in the mid 70s
> because
> of smog laws? Next thing the government will dump the oil straight into
> the
> sea so it won't cause any smog. Long live environmentalists ;-(
>
>
I don't know about Ford producing any new 427s but I have read that Shelby
Motorsports is offering new aluminum 427 blocks
Check out
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.carrollshelby.com/
or :
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.carrollshelby.com/engines.htm

Warning for you FE nuts, have a drool rag ready. ;0)

Tom H
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 09:23:58 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - The sweetest sound

Well Folks we did it. My brother and I finished his inline 6 last night. A
project that started in October of last year is finally done. It started as
a simple rebuild, and turned into a massive redesign. This inline six now
sports some Very cool moods. Bottom end is stock, but the pistons have a
swirl cut into the crown to mix the air and fuel more efficiently, head was
gone through, and milled .030 to boost the compression. Fuel comes from a
Holley 390 feeding through a Clifford 4v manifold that also has a coolant
passage under it, to prevent Vapor lock, and dual headers handle the spent
fuel quite nicely. Ignition is from an MSD 6A and Blaster coil. Smog pump
is gone, EGR is gone, other junk like that is gone.

Anyhow, yesterday was the moment of truth. With no plugs in it, we spun the
motor over to build up the oil pressure, and also pumped the bad gas out of
the line. We did this several times yesterday in between other stuff, so we
were sure the engine was well oiled, and we also had a lot of bad gas to pump
out. After the gas cleared up, I hooked up the fuel line and spun it once
more to fill the fuel bowls. Then the spark plugs went back in. I was
outside keeping an eye on all the goodies, and Josh was inside ready to see
what happens. I told him, pump it twice, and hit it. If it dont fire right
away, we did sumthin wrong. Well folks that starter wasnt engaged for more
than 1/4 of a sec before that beast roared to life. And I mean ROAR (still
has open headers). It came to life and ran as smooth as anything Ive ever
seen. It was an incredible feeling. Especially since this is the first
engine Josh has ever built, and my first without someone older and wiser
standing right there reminding me what I forgot. I was nervous to say the
least. Thanks to EVERYONE on this list for their help with this project, it
was of immense help. Yall have a great day, I know I will.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety
and
Josh Duggan (Spyder2)
84 F-150 "Zoot"
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 08:34:06 -0500
From: "InkDezJim"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ?'s on reinforcing F-100 Frame for Towing

Hello all, hope all have been well. I have been pretty busy with work, but
have been lurking in the background keeping up halfway well with things.

The slow, gradual refurbishment of my '69 F-100 2wd longbed continues. I
have just about talked myself into pulling it completely down to bare frame
this winter, and an overall question comes to mind - I expect that at some
point in its life, the truck will be called on to do some towing, and I
would like it to be able to tow a car on trailer. The truck will have a HiPo
390 bored .040, a C-6 (rebuilt with B&M transkit for rv) and currently has
the standard axle, which I think is a 3.25:1. I know that I could stand
changing to a little lower gearing if much towing will be done. The real
question is that since it is an F-100, not a 250, so, while I have it in
bare frame, what reinforcement can be done to be most beneficial for the
truck under towing conditions. I have considered boxing the frame and
welding all cross-members that are riveted, not bolted (since they may have
to be moved for maintenance for some point). I would appreciate any
knowledgeable comments or recommendations, as well as any information on
original towing capacities and any estimate what capacity such
reinforcements would enable.

Jim E.



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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 09:21:43 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Prep for winter storage

Someone writes: >>And follow the previous advice about rodent protection, I
have also heard of racoons and squirells making a mess of your wiring, never had
it happen to me tho.

My Father-in-law Is really an old man and doesn't drive much anymore - probably
less than 2000 miles/year. Anyway to make a long story short, mice or rats or
squirrels (rodents at any rate) ate some of the wiring insulation off it between
startups last year. I spent 1/2 day seperating and re-wraping the engine
harness wires. Was a really pain in the rear. I had heard of it previously,
but that was my 1st experience. My vehicles don't usually sit long enough to
get cool, much less have rodents make a home in it.

Take precaution against rodents.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 08:23:12 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Blow by?

David, I also live in MN. What part of the state are you from? We could
compare notes! I have maybe solved my 460 problem. I found out my swapped
motor has an American Motors Motorcraft 4350 carb w/o the kick down lever on
carb found on Ford models. Also, the two vacuum ports found in rear weren't
being fully utilized. One is for EGR valve, which when connected made engine
almost stop at idle, and the other is used for what I don't know. So I
originally plugged them both with a couple of handy roofing nails but still
that didn't seal well. Had a lot of backpressure/backfiring when releasing
gas pedal and am thinking that is related to my oil consumption. This
weekend the nails fell out and I then plugged both ports with a narrow hose
I found in garage. I just ran hose from one port to the other. The engine
runs fine, best it has since I installed it in July. I'll keep an eye on the
oil consumption and dipstick.

-----Original Message-----
From: David.R.John deluxe.com
[mailto:David.R.John deluxe.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 1999 4:26 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Blow by?

Hi all,

I have been on the list for about 2 years, but I have been
away for the
last 4 months, while I relocated from Wisconsin to
Minnesota. My problem
is my 78 F250 4x4 supercab with a 460 and 4 speed. I bought
it 2 years ago
from a guy who had swapped in a newly overhauled 460 just
prior to me
buying the truck. He seems to have done a very good job
with it and the
motor was rebuilt by a reputable outfit (however they would
not transfer
the warrantee to me when I bought the truck). The motor has
always taken
some oil which I did not like, but it was not leaking on the
driveway and I
couldn't detect it burning any (smell, blue smoke). My
father said that
the rings probably didn't seat and what I have gathered from
the list this
could be very true. He and you all have suggested driving
the heck out of
it, but to no avail. Now the engine wants blow my dipstick
out and puke
oil all over my engine. I have checked and replaced the PCV
valve to no
effect either. My question to all you great minds is what
is going on, and
how do I fix it?

My dad said that some of the chev?! guys he would run
against would have to
dump bonami down their carb to get their rings to seat.
This may be some
urban legend, but I thought the great Azie mentioned this
before (it may
have been a joke on his part) too. Can this hurt to try if
I am going to
have to tear down to motor anyway?

The motor probably has 10,000 miles on it now since the over
haul, and
without taping my dipstick down it uses 2 qts per 300-400
miles.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!

David John
78 F250 4x4 Supercab 460 4spd
78 F250 4x4 400 C6 (parts truck for tranny swap)

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 09:26:45 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear

High Plains Drifter - eh - Richards writes: >>PS what is the easiest way to
identify a 9 inch rear???

No rear cover/inspection plate. "Chunk" comes out the front (driveshaft end) as
a complete 3rd member assy. Ford made an 8" that also carried this design and
looks exactly like it, but the bottom nut on the 9"can only be removed with a
boxend or openend wrench as you can't get a socket on it, but will go on an 8".

Hope this helps.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 09:42:53 -0400
From: kpayne ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re 427

> >
> >
> I don't know about Ford producing any new 427s but I have read that Shelby
> Motorsports is offering new aluminum 427 blocks
> Check out
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.carrollshelby.com/
> or :
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.carrollshelby.com/engines.htm
>
> Warning for you FE nuts, have a drool rag ready. ;0)
>
> Tom H

I searched the site. No aluminum 427 blocks. However, they
do offer aluminum FE heads and REBUILT FE blocks.

"Shelby Engine Rebuilds
There's nothing more authentic than having Carroll Shelby
restore the power he created in the first place. "

Ken
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 09:50:43 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Excess oil consumption

David John writes: >>Now the engine wants blow my dipstick out and puke
oil all over my engine. I have checked and replaced the PCV valve to no
effect either. My question to all you great minds is what is going on, and
how do I fix it?

My dad said that some of the chev?! guys he would run against would have to
dump bonami down their carb to get their rings to seat. This may be some
urban legend, but I thought the great Azie mentioned this before (it may
have been a joke on his part) too. Can this hurt to try if I am going to
have to tear down to motor anyway?

Was not a joke. When Chrome rings 1st hit the market, most country folks were
running 160 degree t'stats or in some cases no t'stat in the south. We had a
lot of difficulty getting rings to "seat", hence your very situation. Bon Ami
was often used, and with a great deal of success. Mix up a solution of
gasoline(or kerosene or diesel fuel) and bon ami(cup full or less). It doesn't
disolve in the gas, you just gotta keep it suspended in the liquid. Have
someone hold the rpm's up around 2000 or so and very slowly pour it down the
throat of the carb, and then take it out for a run around the town or to the
neighboring town. Put a few miles on it. 10 should be sufficient, more is
probably better. The Bon Ami is supposed to get the "glaze" off the Cyl walls
and allow the rings to "seat". Won't hurt anything and might save you a
teardown.
Be sure you are running a good t'stat. I recommend a 192/195 degree job. I run
these year round. Engines tend to live longer when hotter t'stats are used, and
rings will certainly "seat" better.
Another thing I've done with MY engines when I had similar problems, is to cover
the radiator with cardboard and take off down the road. Run it pretty hard
watching the temp very carefully. Let it get to the "HOT" (peg) and stay there
for a bit (not too long, cause this can cause more problems than it solves), and
then remove the cardboard and drive it until it cools down. You gotta watch
this one, cause your engine will seize up if it gets too hot. Could also crack
something such as a head or block. I'm not recommending either, but merely
stating what I have done in the past with some degree of success...

Are you "certain" that the truck was overhauled just prior to your purchase???
Was the person you bought it from trustworthy?? Does everything else about the
truck indicate a recent overhaul. Good oil pressure?? Any knocks, clatters, or
pecks??? Not doubting - just asking!!!

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 10:05:52 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C 6

David John writes: >>I am in the process of swapping my 4spd out of my truck
(78 F250 4x4
supercab) and putting a C6 in. My donor vehicle is pretty rough (very
rusty, and no brakes) I drove it around in the field and it seems to shift
and work fine. I believe the previous owner said that the tranny had been
rebuilt before but did not know exactly when. My question(s): should I
have it rebuilt, before I put it in? Is there something cheaper I can do
(or have someone do) that will help ensure that it will last? Can a
rebuilder somehow test to see if a tranny is "good" without tearing it
apart (and costing me big bucks)? I would hate to spend money that I do
not need to, and yet I would hate to have to pull the tranny and put it in
twice. Any thoughts

In order to fully check the C 6, you have to get it up to normal operating temp,
but if you made it shift under pretty strong acceleration(all the way from stop
to high gear) and it shifted firmly, and then you engaged reverse and it engaged
firmly, I would not be afraid of it. The C 6 is, in my opinion, the most
reliable transmission ever built. The M*OPAR 727 is a very close 2nd.
Is your donor a 4X4 also??? If not, you are going to have to tear it completely
down anyway, The tailshaft and outputshaft is different in 2X4 and 4X4
applications... You'll have to find an outputshaft and tailshaft from a C 6
that came out of a 4X4 with the same transfercase as you have in your 4X4. Each
transfer case requires its own bolt pattern and length of the tailshaft(that
spacer type casting between the trans and the transfer case) on the
transmission. Also the 4 speed and the C 6 tailshafts(spacer) are different...
Been there - Done that.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.




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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 10:56:53 -0400
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Still not charging II

Gang,
First, I tried remounting the voltage reg, to see if the mounting
screws were binding it. No luck.
Next, I took Don's advice (thanks Don) and checked the field post on the
alternator with the key in the 'run' position, and while the truck
was running. I get zero (0) volts both times. This seems bad.
What could be the cause (read on)?

The only connection to the voltage reg that has voltage is the yellow wire
(which is hooked, at its other end, to the battery side of the starter
soleniod. The yellow wire has 12 volts (give or take a bit) ALL the time
(even when the key is in the 'off' position). My truck (a 'good' running
comparison for the dysfunctional truck) also has 12 volts at this yellow
wire all the time, so I don't think this is the problem. However, I
think this might help someone.

Finally, I am currently using the old voltage reg off of my 1968 truck, and
I know the reg. is good (I put it on my truck again last night, and got 14
volts at my battery. I then returned it to the dysfunctional truck).

My question is: does the field (ie orange) wire send voltage FROM the volt.
reg. TO the alternator, or FROM the alternator TO the volt. reg? IF the
field wire sends voltage to the alternator, it sounds like something isn't
'switching' the volt. reg. to make it send the voltage, right? Since the
problem doesn't seem to be the voltage reg., what tells the voltage reg to
'send' voltage down the orange wire to the alternator?

Again, I appreciate everyone's suggestions on this. It seems to be a problem
w/ the field. Hope you can help.
Ohio Bill

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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 11:44:52 EDT
From: BanksRVA aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Grills

Hey folks, quick question. Will a 73-77 grill bolt up to a 78 or 79 truck?
Thanks, Joe
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 08:46:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:Blow by?

It sounds like the rebuider used Chrome-Moly rings.
They will last forever, but they take a long time to
seat, and may never seat. I don't know of any tricks
to help them seat other than tearing it down, honing
the cylinders walls, and replacing the rings with cast
iron rings. I don't believe that you would have to
rebore, but that depends on what they find after it is
torn down.

Good Luck
Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V



>Hi all,I have been on the list for about 2 years, but
>I have been away for the
>last 4 months, while I relocated from Wisconsin to
>Minnesota. Myproblem
>is my 78 F250 4x4 supercab with a 460 and 4 speed. I
>bought it 2 yearsago
>from a guy who had swapped in a newly overhauled 460
>just prior to me
>buying the truck. He seems to have done a very good
>job with it andthe
>motor was rebuilt by a reputable outfit (however they
>would nottransfer
>the warrantee to me when I bought the truck). The
>motor has alwaystaken
>some oil which I did not like, but it was not leaking
>on the drivewayand I
>couldn't detect it burning any (smell, blue smoke).
>My father saidthat
>the rings probably didn't seat and what I have
>gathered from the listthis
>could be very true. He and you all have suggested
>driving the heck outof
>it, but to no avail. Now the engine wants blow my
>dipstick out andpuke
>oil all over my engine. I have checked and replaced
>the PCV valve tono
>effect either. My question to all you great minds is
>what is going on,and
>how do I fix it?
>My dad said that some of the chev?! guys he would run
>against wouldhave to
>dump bonami down their carb to get their rings to
>seat. This may besome
>urban legend, but I thought the great Azie mentioned
>this before (itmay
>have been a joke on his part) too. Can this hurt to
>try if I am goingto
>have to tear down to motor anyway?
>The motor probably has 10,000 miles on it now since
>the over haul, and
>without taping my dipstick down it uses 2 qts per
300->400 miles.
>Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 10:54:13 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Grills

Hmmm, had a '77 crew cab parked next to my '78 for a month and a half.
Should know that answer. I think it doesn't though. the whole chrome piece
would have to be switched over too. but still different construction I
think.

-----Original Message-----
From: BanksRVA aol.com [mailto:BanksRVA aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 10:45 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Grills

Hey folks, quick question. Will a 73-77 grill bolt up to a
78 or 79 truck?
Thanks, Joe
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 09:25:48 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - ?'s on reinforcing F-100 Frame for Towing


The real
> question is that since it is an F-100, not a 250, so, while I have it in
> bare frame, what reinforcement can be done to be most beneficial for the
> truck under towing conditions. I have considered boxing the frame and
> welding all cross-members that are riveted, not bolted (since they may
> have
> to be moved for maintenance for some point). I would appreciate any
> knowledgeable comments or recommendations, as well as any information on
> original towing capacities and any estimate what capacity such
> reinforcements would enable.
>
> Jim E.
>
>
Jim
I don't think there will be any problems with the durability of the
frame under towing conditions. I don't think there is much if any
difference between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton (even 1 ton) frames. The differences
will be in axle load capacities, spring rates, radiator capacity, and
transmission cooling. I would probably swap a heavier duty axle from an
F-250 along with the rear springs from the donor truck. Use the larges
radiator you can get and install an auxilary trans cooler. For occasional
towing your current axle will probably serve well but go ahead with the
cooling mods.

Tom H.
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 09:32:33 -0700
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ?'s on reinforcing F-100 Frame for Towing

What kind of house are you planning on towing ;-)

Really, not much needs to be done to the frame for strength. What you would
really need is a good quality receiver hitch that bolts on in at least 6
places. Make sure your brakes are in good shape and if there is going to be a
heavy tongue weight look into higher capacity rear leaf springs. The 30+ year
old springs could be on there way out. Welding up the cross members could do
more harm in the long run than will benefit you now. Some frame flex must have
been designed into the system. My $.02 would be to take the time you would
have spent on the frame and replace all the old steel and rubber brake lines
and maybe add disks to the front if you don't already have them.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4
43 GPW


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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:44:12 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Still not charging II

Bill asks:
[snip]
> Next, I took Don's advice (thanks Don) and checked the field
> post on the alternator with the key in the 'run' position,
> and while the truck was running. I get zero (0) volts both
> times. This seems bad. What could be the cause (read on)?

No voltage on the field = No alternator output. Good clue.

> The only connection to the voltage reg that has voltage is
> the yellow wire (which is hooked, at its other end, to the
[snip]

Yellow connects to A+ terminal on regulator, is hot all the
time.

[known good regulator from '68 installed, no workee]

> My question is: does the field (ie orange) wire send voltage
> FROM the volt. reg. TO the alternator, or FROM the alternator
> TO the volt. reg? IF the field wire sends voltage to the
> alternator, it sounds like something isn't 'switching' the
> volt. reg. to make it send the voltage, right? Since the
> problem doesn't seem to be the voltage reg., what tells the
> voltage reg to 'send' voltage down the orange wire to the
> alternator?

Bill, the regulator sends (drives) the control current to the
alternator. The voltage that is measured here is a function of
how much current is required from the alternator. Zero volts =
Zero curent out, 12 volts = MAX current out of alternator. What
turns the regulator on depends on whether you have an ammeter
or an idiot light from the factory.

In the case of an ammeter, the "S" terminal on the regulator
should be connected to +12 volts through the ignition switch.
On my '70, this wire is green/red. This 12 volts closes the
field relay (or transistor if electronic reg), and supplies
the neccesary voltage to the field terminal. The "I" terminal
on the regulator is not used, the "S" termianl at the
alternator is >>NOT
used to drive an electric choke heater.

With an ammeter, tye "I" terminal is connected to +12 volts,
again through the ignition switch, >>AND
on the regulator and alternator are connected. In this case,
the "I" (reg) term provides the initial field voltage, when
the alternator starts putting out, the "S" connection closes
the field relay, which in turn extinguishes the idiot light.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 12:48:22 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE:Still not charging II

Set your multimeter to AC voltage and check those terminals again. If you
get a reading I would say your alternator diodes are bad but I'm no expert
on this so I guess this is what I would do in this case, right or wrong?

I don't know which wires do what but the regulator "regulates" the field
energy via either transistors or vibrating points based on the armature
battery output so there should be some voltage on all terminals with engine
running I should think since one coil is controled by battery voltage (14 or
so when charging) and this coil controls the voltage getting to the field
but I can't say which one is which off hand.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> alternator with the key in the 'run' position, and while the truck
> was running. I get zero (0) volts both times. This seems bad.
> What could be the cause (read on)?
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 09:52:29 -0700
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Still not charging II

William King wrote:

>
> My question is: does the field (ie orange) wire send voltage FROM the volt.
> reg. TO the alternator, or FROM the alternator TO the volt. reg? IF the
> field wire sends voltage to the alternator, it sounds like something isn't
> 'switching' the volt. reg. to make it send the voltage, right? Since the
> problem doesn't seem to be the voltage reg., what tells the voltage reg to
> 'send' voltage down the orange wire to the alternator?
>
> Again, I appreciate everyone's suggestions on this. It seems to be a problem
> w/ the field. Hope you can help.
> Ohio Bill

The field wire gets power from the voltage regulator to the alternator. Lets
just go back two steps. The wire that is on the regulator labeled "I" does this
have power with the key on or off? It should have power in the Key position
run. If you have power to the wire Labeled "I" you should have power to field
wire. If that works you should be making unregulated power but should show a
reading on the meter 14v-15v something like that. Hook up the stator wire and
your voltage should come down a little. The actual voltage will depend on you
current battery condition.

Lets begin....
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4
43 GPW


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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 10:00:42 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ?'s on reinforcing F-100 Frame for Towing

InkDezJim wrote:

[ I'm gonna rip my cab off. Should I reinforce the frame? ]

Jim, unless your CARRYING a lot of weight (cab-over camper),
I wouldn't worry about the frame. Even then, I'd worry about
the axles more first. If you're towing, spend money on brakes,
a good hitch, and a tranny cooler. Oh yeah, towing a trailer
with a wimpy little ni$ on it isn't really towing :-)

With that said, we can now compare my F250 frame (crew cab)
to your F100 :-). My frame is 6" x 2.5" (web x flange), and
has an additional 3/16" plate tack welded to the webbing from
just behind the radius arm mounts to just in front of the
rear shackle mounts. This is on the outside of the webbing,
it doesn't create a box. I've always assumed that this was a
factory add-on due to the length of the crew cab? Or, do other
F250's also use this?
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 09:59:21 -0700
From: sparky mail.island.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re - 75 F250 4x4 steering

Chris Samuel wrote:
>What parts are required to convert the Hyd assist to the Integral Power
>Steering box?
>Ok, the Steering Gearbox itself off of a 78-79 up?
>The Pitman Arm, Tie Rod/Drag Link, Hoses.
>I figure that the frame will take a touch of fabrication which is no big
>deal.

I converted my truck this past spring and it still works perfectly. Check
out the Tech Article it has a list of all the parts, tools and materials I
needed. Feel free to email me if you have any questions about it.

Sparky
73 F250 4x4
3?0FE 4v

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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 12:58:56 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Grills

Yes, done it before, both ways-- some minor drilling for new headlight frame
brackets must be done to the 78 core support, but no problem after that! 8-)

When it's time, drop me a line if you have any questions--

Tony
tony pscico.com
www.pscico.com/~tony


BanksRVA aol.com wrote:

> Hey folks, quick question. Will a 73-77 grill bolt up to a 78 or 79 truck?
> Thanks, Joe
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 10:07:05 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Still not charging II

I wrote:

[ a whole bunch of stuff]

Then I spewed out:

> With an ammeter, tye "I" terminal is connected to +12 volts,
^^^^^^^
Argggggg! I'm talking idiot light here folks!

> again through the ignition switch, >>AND
> on the regulator and alternator are connected.

- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 14:00:03 -0400
From: "james burnette"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 71 F100 Steering

Hello,

I'm new to the list and I think I'm going to like it.
Question:
Does anyone know where I might purchase new worm and sector shaft gears for
my 71 PS gear box?
I've got the ol wandering road blues.

Jim Burnette
harleyford mindspring.com

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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 15:04:18 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 71 F100 Steering

I found one on the internet but will have to post it tomorrow if I still
have the book mark. Before you do this though, make sure your kingpins,
ball joints or trunion bearings are in good shape along with tie rod ends
and other linkage parts which can dry out and bind up. The most common
cause of wander is "tight" rather than "loose" linkage including the
steering box. If you'd like more explanation on this let me know :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Does anyone know where I might purchase new worm and sector
> shaft gears for
> my 71 PS gear box?
> I've got the ol wandering road blues.
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 16:24:08 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: FTE 61-79 - buying rollback? (flatbed)

So who has experince owning a rollback (flatbed). I see late 70's F-350
big block rollbacks going for 5-6000$. What is the weight carrying limit
of a typical rollback? Might be easier (and about the same cost
overall) to sell my tow vehcile (79 Bronc), not build a 460 for it and
sell the full size flat trailer I just got. Might even be able to make
some extra money after I weed out my 1000 new friends :-)

OX
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 15:44:49 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - bad idling and dying

Hey all,

A few days ago I posted a note about Henry's sudden tendency to die at stop
signs. After replacing the gas line and rotor and cap, He still didn't run
right. I adjusted the carb and he still was off. After driving around for 3
days, he decided to operate in his smooth typical manner. I set the idle
back down last night after returning from class. Today he is back to running
slick again. I think I also had some bad gas at my last fillup. With a full
feed of gas to the carb, he will even chirp the new Eagle GTs on occaision.

Ahh...life is good when you own an old Ford truck.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 17:04:53 -0400
From: "james burnette"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Drivetrain help

>> Also, on the subject of drivelines, what's with this shaking and
vibration when I'm going from a dead stop to first.
>> wonder if'n it might be the LSD that's making it shake. Whenever I rev it
and drop the clutch to do a burnout
>> I never get the shudder. Plus I never get it any other time when I
engage the clutch (as in an upshift or downshift).

Sounds just like a problem I had with my 71 F100 after installing a new
clutch & pressure plate. After several cycles of removing the tranny and
clutch/pressure plates, the problem was the pilot bearing for the tranny
input shaft mounted in the end of the crankshaft.This bearing would move
when the tranny was slide into the clutch plate. Without this bearing in
place the input shaft had no support so the clutch plate wobbled during
engagement and vibrated like a Jackhammer!

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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 16:18:21 -0500
From: David.R.John deluxe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?

Has anyone or is it possible to add a tranny cooler to a radiator without
it? I'm not talking about an auxilary cooler (which I will have to do if
this does not work). This is for my conversion from 4spd to C6 and I have
a great oversized rad in my truck (previous owner said it was from a
diesel) and I have AC so I don't think there is room for the auxilary. My
donor (the one with the auto) truck's rad looks a little rough and I don't
really want to buy one. If this is not an option, is a heavy duty auxilary
tranny cooler enough to keep my C6 happy??

Thanks for all your help!!

David
78 F250 4x4 Supercab 460 4spd
78 F250 4x4 400 C6 (parts truck for tranny swap)

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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 16:04:49 -0600
From: "Matthew Senn"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?

i just asked this question of my tranny mechanic the other day while my c6
was in the shop being rebuilt . . . he recommended running the the cooling
through both the radiator and the auxilliary cooler, especially in cold
climates to aid in proper warming of the tranny fluid . . . as for being
able to "plumb" a radiator to add the tranny cooling area, i'm not sure . .
. hope this helps (of course, any knowledge is better than no knowledge)




- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 3:18 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?


> Has anyone or is it possible to add a tranny cooler to a radiator without
> it? I'm not talking about an auxilary cooler (which I will have to do if
> this does not work). This is for my conversion from 4spd to C6 and I have
> a great oversized rad in my truck (previous owner said it was from a
> diesel) and I have AC so I don't think there is room for the auxilary. My
> donor (the one with the auto) truck's rad looks a little rough and I don't
> really want to buy one. If this is not an option, is a heavy duty
auxilary
> tranny cooler enough to keep my C6 happy??
>
> Thanks for all your help!!
>
> David
> 78 F250 4x4 Supercab 460 4spd
> 78 F250 4x4 400 C6 (parts truck for tranny swap)
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 15:09:44 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Problem with that 427


> If we get a clean bill of health in the crack department we are
>not sure if we will build it or opt to sell, I know I would feel bad putting
>in low compression pistons just so it could use pump gas. Time will tell,
>Thanks again.
>Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

Hey, send that sucker my way! I'm not afraid of high compression
and cheap pump gas... That's what a good water injection
system is for! (-:

Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 15:09:45 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Blasted blaster2's... was "The sweetest sound"

Darrell wrote:
>Well Folks we did it. My brother and I finished his inline 6 last night. A
>project that started in October of last year is finally done. It started as
>a simple rebuild, and turned into a massive redesign. This inline six now
>sports some Very cool moods. Bottom end is stock, but the pistons have a
>swirl cut into the crown to mix the air and fuel more efficiently, head was
>gone through, and milled .030 to boost the compression. Fuel comes from a
>Holley 390 feeding through a Clifford 4v manifold that also has a coolant
>passage under it, to prevent Vapor lock, and dual headers handle the spent
>fuel quite nicely.

Sounds like a nice motor! I've always been a believer in Ford's big sixes.
I like 'em a lot.
Uhh, whadja use for a cam? Got any specs?


>Ignition is from an MSD 6A and Blaster coil.

I use an MSD6A on my truck and like it, but I've really learned to
distrust the Blaster2 coils, they seem to be very susceptable to arc-over
damage if you have a bad plug wire. (or if a plug wire falls off)
Last night I saw my *3rd* dead blaster coil in less than a year.

A friend called and said his truck ("Got Mechanic Coming" brand...)
was running like crap and he had some cold beers if I'd come take
a look at it. Sure, why not. I dislike working on GMC products, but
I like to harrass friends about their dead ones, and I do like cold
beer so what the hell...
The truck idled O.K, but with an occasioinal misfire. If you revved
it up a bit, it misfired quite a bit. If you took it out on the road
and tried to drive it, it would buck and spit and fall flat on it's
face as soon as you gave it a bit of throttle.

Now all this was very familiar to me, since I'd had almost exactly
the same syptoms on my MSD equiped 390 last year...
I had 2 spark plug wires with a very high resistance, and the blaster
coil had "blasted" a nice hole in the side of thre HV snout and would
arc over to one of the primary terminals occasionally. Trashed my
blaster coil good.

I had Dan pull his truck into the garage where it was fairly dark,
and low and behold, every once in a while you could see a big fat
spark jump from under the edge of the boot on the coil HV snout
and go straight to one of the primary terminals. If you whacked
the throttle open suddenly, it would stumble bad and the coil
would light up like something from an old Frankenstein movie.
We shut it down and I went after all the spark plug wires with
an ohmmeter. Found the culprit immediately, one wire was open...
it had come apart at the spark plug boot end altho it looked fine
there was no connection anymore. The coil had a big deep carbon
track gouged down the side of the HV terminal, and is unfit for
service now.

Also, shortly after MY coil went dead, I told a buddy about it
and he smiled and showed me a blaster2 coil he'd yanked from his
mustang. It had the familiar looking burn mark from the side of
the HV snout to one primary terminal. It also killed his MSD6A,
no spark, left him walking to a phone for a tow truck...

That makes 3 kaput blaster2 coils that I've personally seen since
october last year. One of them severly damaged the MSD6 also.
*That* makes me nervous...

The MSD6 ign module can dump some serious energy into the primary
of a good coil, and the resulting spark is *gonna* go somewhere.
If it doesn't have a good low resistance path to a spark plug, then
it's gonna jump somewhere else. Unfortunately, on a standard
"round can" type coil, where it jumps to is almost certainly going
to be to one or the other primary terminals, possibly resulting
in the destruction of the ign module. )-:

When I replaced my coil, I used one of the square "open core" type
coils found on many 80's and later fords. These are good quality,
high output coils, and I like the design better than the standard
round coil. The distance from the HV terminal to anything grounded
that the spark can potentially jump to is greater, and if it does
jump it will jump to the grounded core of the coil rather than to
the primary terminals. (which are on the other side of the core)
These coils will make a wonderfully potent spark when driven with
an MSD module, and I think their design makes them much more robust
than a round coil, and if something bad happens, it's much less
likely to wipe out your ign module.

Uhh, did I mention that they can be had by the dozens for about
$5 each at the wrecking yard?

Anyway, that's why I distrust the Blaster2 coil (or probably any
round can coil) on an MSD6, and if I were to run one again I
would definately:

1) use the best quality, lowest resistance spark plug wires I could
get.

2) use a silicone dielectric grease on all the HV connector boots.

3) make damned sure all plug boots are tight on the plugs and can't
possibly come off.

4) carry a spare coil.

5) get a AAA card.

That's my $.02, FWIW...


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 17:13:41 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Add tranny cooler to radiator without it?

David

I have done this more then once. Just take it to a radiator shop.
They will take the bottom tank off and put the cooler lines in and replace.
They usually have some cooler lines laying around.

Larry


At 04:18 PM 9/15/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Has anyone or is it possible to add a tranny cooler to a radiator without
>it? I'm not talking about an auxilary cooler (which I will have to do if
>this does not work). This is for my conversion from 4spd to C6 and I have
>a great oversized rad in my truck (previous owner said it was from a
>diesel) and I have AC so I don't think there is room for the auxilary. My
>donor (the one with the auto) truck's rad looks a little rough and I don't
>really want to buy one. If this is not an option, is a heavy duty auxilary
>tranny cooler enough to keep my C6 happy??
>
>Thanks for all your help!!
>
>David
>78 F250 4x4 Supercab 460 4spd
>78 F250 4x4 400 C6 (parts truck for tranny swap)
>
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>
>

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 07:25:05 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - T5 installation, Chatter

The 3 speed has a fairly tall low gear compared to most of the heavy 4 speed
types and when you try to go from zero to some speed to catch the next gear
you are forcing the clutch to slip quite a bit for the first few feet of
travel. There are springs in the clutch plate to absorb some of the initial
shock of engegement and with the right forces they will oscilate causing
chatter as well as the clutch disk itself chattering against a glazed
flywheel or pressur plate. If you have any leaks in the engine rear seal or
transmission input shaft seal it will allow oil to get on the clutch parts
causing the glazing etc. which will also cause this chatter.

Try letting the clutch out more slowly with less throttle until you are
rolling, letting it out quickly and all the way as soon as you can after
that. This reduces the tendency of the springs to add to the chatter and
once the plates are all hooked up with steady power applied the chatter
should be non existant. I notice this most of the time when I'm distracted
and give it too much gas. The trick is to get it hooked up as quickly as
possible without stressing it. It takes practice but you'd be amazed how
well a bad clutch will engage with a little finesse.

In may case the clutch is simply too light for the application :-( I'm
running 3.5 gears with 33" tires which make my low gear (second) a tad high
for good take offs. 4.1 should be fine with your application and lower
(higher numerically) typically is better for clutch chatter since it reduces
the amount of slippage required for a take off.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Also, on the subject of drivelines, what's with this shaking
> and vibration
> when I'm going from a dead stop to first. I've got a Dana 60
> with 4.1 and an
> LSD (not a positraction like the guy at the parts store likes
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 18:50:38 -0400
From: David Wadson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Prep for winter storage

>Someone writes: >>And follow the previous advice about rodent protection, I
>have also heard of racoons and squirells making a mess of your wiring,
>never had
>it happen to me tho.
>
>My Father-in-law Is really an old man and doesn't drive much anymore -
>probably
>less than 2000 miles/year. Anyway to make a long story short, mice or rats or
>squirrels (rodents at any rate) ate some of the wiring insulation off it
>between
>startups last year. I spent 1/2 day seperating and re-wraping the engine
>harness wires. Was a really pain in the rear. I had heard of it previously,
>but that was my 1st experience. My vehicles don't usually sit long enough to
>get cool, much less have rodents make a home in it.

I had squirrels stuff my dash with chewed up pink fibreglass insulation
from the garage walls when my significant other left the rear slider open.
Which she had done so that she could boost herself up to the rafters above
to put sunflower seeds there for the squirrels...

Luckily they never chewed any of the wires though it did take a while to
pick all the insulation out...


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS2" - 78 F100/302/C4
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:13:42 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Posi rear

This, of course, depends on the state of the tranny :-) With drive shaft
locked the opposit wheel will turn in the opposite direction in any case but
will turn harder with Traction loc :-) Remember there is resistance in the
gears to prevent them from moving due to heavy oil etc. even in an open diff
and you can actually get the drive shaft to turn instead of the other axle
if it is not locked by the tranny so the directional test is not
"conclusive". The force test is better as long as the brakes are not
dragging too much and then it becomes a judgement call.

Keep in mind that the diffs work exactly the same way with respect to the
gearing, axle response, drive shaft response etc.. The only difference is
that the Traction Loc will have resistance to moving the axles separately so
locking the drive shaft will force this. If you do not lock the drive shaft
any part of the system could move and you still don't know for sure what
happened :-)

Since there is no brake on a typical light truck drive shaft the simplest
and easiest to do is to jack up one wheel, unlock the drive shaft so it does
not supply any resistance and see how hard it is to turn the free wheel,
again, taking the condition of the brake into account. The traction loc
will resist turning because is it locked via clutches to the grounded wheel
whereas the open diff will turn easily under these conditions unless the
diff is damaged etc..

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Geoff writes: >>I heard that if you
> jack up the rear end high enough off the ground so that the
> rear wheels
> don't touch, and spin one wheel with your hands, the other
> wheel should
> turn in the same direction. True?
>
> True. If it is the ordinary "open" rear the opposite wheel
> will try to turn in
> the opposite direction.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:23:34 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Ingnition Modulator

If this is dura spark you should not be getting any voltage on one lead with
key on but 6-8 on the other and under start mode you should get 12v but
right now I've forgotten which ones are which. I believe the white wire is
start and red is run. If you have voltage on the orange wire (or maybe it's
the white one, not sure) in the run position the module is bad.......as I
recall :-) This is how I burned up a starter because this line should not
have voltage in run poisition as it will feed back to the start relay and
keep it energized but the engine is so loud you may not notice (as I didn't)
and then the starter stays hooked up and runs at about 30,000 rpms all day
long!!! It's designed to run 9k rpm free and 4500 loaded if that tells you
anything :-)

When the module shorts internally you get about 2v on one of these that
isn't supposed to have any voltage in any case :-) In my case all the
resistance tests were good and voltage was too except for this one
exception. The indication I had was the selenoid would not release until I
turned the key off so until I got it fixed I would start the engine, turn
the key off momentarily and turn it back on befor the engine stalled and the
starter would disengage :-)
....


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