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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #329
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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, September 14 1999 Volume 03 : Number 329



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Wooden spacers :Caution
RE: FTE 61-79 - The 300, and what did I just step in?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor
FTE 61-79 - looking for picture of mount
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wooden spacers :Caution
Re: FTE 61-79 - Speakers
FTE 61-79 - Drivetrain help
FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging
FTE 61-79 - gasket questions t/case
FTE 61-79 - Problem with that 427
FTE 61-79 - idling problems
FTE 61-79 - Posi rear
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rotor and TDC
FTE 61-79 - Ingnition Modulator
Re: FTE 61-79 - help! Oil leaks on a 390
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ingnition Modulator
FTE 61-79 - heated tailgate
> FTE 61-79 - towing with a Bronco
> FTE 61-79 - Vacuum System Diagram
Re: FTE 61-79 - Drivetrain help
RE: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum System Diagram
FTE 61-79 - 429 firetruck
FTE 61-79 - FE pulley source
RE: FTE 61-79 - Drivetrain help
FTE 61-79 - Many Lives of the 300
FTE 61-79 - modulator valve/ it made it!!
FTE 61-79 - winter storage
> Re: FTE 61-79 - Still not charging
Re: FTE 61-79 - winter storage
> FTE 61-79 - rotor and distributer timing
Re: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ingnition Modulator
FTE 61-79 - P/S conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - Problem with that 427
FTE 61-79 - Pictures of my 76 parked on a glacier.
Re: FTE 61-79 - P/S conversion
FTE 61-79 - Bigger F serie trucks...

=======================================================================

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 06:46:06 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Wooden spacers :Caution

If you use proper gaskets, the torque requirement should be light enough to
preclude this. My Edlebrock is machined wrong or the manifold is bolted in
improperly so that it does not have a flat surface in every radial plane so
when you tighten the bolts the carb is twisted in such a way that the
secondarys bind. I had to torque them unevenly, diagonally so that the carb
body stayed straight but there is no sign of leakage. I used to tighten
them prettty well too but it's not really necessary if you set it up
correctly. If you are concerned about the nuts backing off use blue loctite
but don't over tighten in any case.

Wood expands and contracts very dramatically with moisture so you MUST seal
the wood before using it for this application. Plywood should work if you
seal it really well and use the proper gaskets, but make sure there are no
voids in the section you use for this. A better choice might be to laminate
some Luan floor panels and make your own plywood. 3 layers would be close
to 1/2" and Luan is made especially to be free of voids and actually
guaranteed to be free from voids. Get some scraps from a lumber yard or
contractor, glue them together and press them while they set, cut out the
chunk you need, machine it, seal it and there you are :-) Believe it or not
this would actually be preferable to solid wood because solid wood has voids
and soft spots too, Luan does not.

The most common example of this problem is with thermostat housings.
Unfortunately these useually do have to be pretty tight since the gaskets
are very thin and the pressures are fairly high. I personally have never
broken one but my time is probably coming.....:-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Hehe..... I have broken 5 baseplates (holley 4bbl) using plastic and
>
> > until got a replacement part. When I tightened the carb down one
> > of the mounting tabs cracked off the base. If I had to do it again I
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 07:08:52 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - The 300, and what did I just step in?

That should have been "names" :-)

I agree with the ford lovers here (since I am one also :-)) The hype about
chevy's being cheaper to build is unfortunately mostly true but it is also
realative. You can build a dynamite 302 easily as cheaply today as any 300
size chevy motor and as mentioned it will probably live longer. 351
windsors are almost as cheap to build as the chevys now and certaily hold
their own if built on the same lines. While the 454 is more commonly used
in power boats and drag racers than the 460, it may be due to cost or
perhaps because GM is roughly 10 times as large as ford, model wise so there
are more of them out there.

The 460 can be made to run 9k rpm and live. Those of us on this list know
of at least one which has been doing it for 3 years in truck pulls. Yes, it
probably cost more than an equivelant chevy but is that really the issue?
How much more? How long is the investment amortized? How much satisfaction
does the owner get out of beating the chevy's at their own (so called) game?

I drive fords, build fords, think fords and when I finally build that killer
engine it will be a ford and put in a ford and no ford I ever own or buy
will ever have a chevy engine in it simply because if I wanted a chevy
engine I would buy a chevy (and I don't :-)) For the same reasons they
won't have mopar engines in them either, no matter which one happens to be
the best or have the best reputation etc..

I firmly believe I can build a 15 mpg daily driver with over 400 hp and 500#
of torque that pulls from zero rpm and one day will prove this out. For an
I-6 or 302 or even 351 to do this will not get the same mileage or torque
and power will be achieved at much higher rpms so to each his own, I happen
to be a FORD BB guy....OOOUGH OOOUGH OOOUGH!

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Ok Now. Lets close with a prayer-
>
> Our fathers who art in Dearborn, Hallowed be thy name.........
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 07:34:15 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor

These years use a dash pot to control the idle. If this has been bypassed
the throttle plates cannot close all the way when you shut it off so it
still get's fuel. They are designed to shut completely to prevent fuel from
getting in the engine to keep it running due to the "lean burn" philosophy
which leaves the combustion chambers hotter than older engines.

The dashpot is usually an electric selenoid with a plunger which engages the
throttle arm on the carb or some other point in the linkage. The linkage
should stop on this rather than the screw in the carb base which is actually
just a safety stop to prevent the throttle plates from closing so tightly
that they stick. There should be an obvious gap between the linkage and
this screw with engine running at idle and choke off. If not it will run on
when shut off.

Bypassing the dashpot will cause this problem. If no fuel gets to the
engine, it can not run on or diesel.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> this truck may have and also when you are pumping water and
> you shut it off
> it "diesels" for a little while any clue as to why? thanks
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Date: Fri, 03 Jan 1997 07:20:26 -0500
From: Joe Delaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - looking for picture of mount

Group,
can anybody scan me a picture of the 73-77 transfer case mount for a
c6/FE combo
4wd truck..I have the 2 piece mount that attaches to the frame I just
want a picture
to confirm how it all goes together..
Joe
68 4x4 390 c-6/np205

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 07:46:07 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wooden spacers :Caution

I think Ill make mine out'a red aromatic cedar. Yea, it's soft but I can work
around that. With a nice clear coat sealant to let the grain show through.
Gotta leave the bores unsealed though as I love the scent of that wood and it
might make the exhaust more palatable. At the very least it'll keep the moths
(and maybe a few c*&^ys) away!

A little tongue in cheek humor!

George

In a message dated 9/13/99 1:20:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Doug_Neely bc.sympatico.ca writes:


Just a word of caution on using wooden spacers. I made one for
my 351C once (due to a rotted EGR plate) as a temporary measure
until got a replacement part. When I tightened the carb down one
of the mounting tabs cracked off the base. If I had to do it again I
think I would use something a lot harder than plywood, like mahogany
as it's a lot less compressable.
Cheers,

Doug
>>
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 04:58:08 PDT
From: "White Wolf"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Speakers

Yesterday I put a pair of Pioneer 160W 6x9's in my '66 F100 and they sound
great.. They're a little pricey ($90 at Best Buy[my ass]) but you can't
hardly beat the sound in my opinion.. no to figure out the sub
placement...hmmmm.


> >
> >
>What kind of speakers did you settle on for the beast(Envy?)? The speakers
>are Radio Shack Optimus? Are they a 5 1/4 coaxial or dual
>cone

______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:47:29 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Drivetrain help

> Also, on the subject of drivelines, what's with this shaking
> and vibration when I'm going from a dead stop to first.
...
> wonder if'n it might be the LSD that's making it shake.
> Whenever I rev it and drop the clutch to do a burnout
> I never get the shudder. Plus I never get it any other time
> when I engage the clutch (as in an upshift or downshift).

This sounds like you might have a little bit of grease or
similar contamination on your clutch disc. From a dead
stop, you let the clutch "slip" a bit more than when up
or down shifting while moving, so if it is only a few small
spots that dont grab quite as well as the rest of the clutch
disc, it would be more noticeable when lettin it grab slowly.
Does it shudder like that from a dead stop in reverse ?
If so (even if it is not as severe), I would guess that somehow
the clutch disc got some oil or grease on it.


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 04:08:11 -0700
From: "Scott Jensen"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging

Been there, done that. The problem with a some of the store testers is they
only test voltage under a no load condition. I would charge the battery
enough to drive the truck down there and have the current checked. For fun,
with the truck off, take the positive clamp off the battery and connect
your multimeter up to it in series. Make sure it's on the highest scale. If
there's a short to ground someplace, this will show it. But, from what
you've descibed about your voltage readings, I'd say it's the alternater.

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:48:43 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - gasket questions t/case

Hey Joe,

Yes, you should use a gasket (the tranny guy told me this) You'll probably
need to make one from a roll of gasket material....

CJ
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:48:27 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Problem with that 427

Hey Burt,

I'm sorry to say, but that 427 just will never run right at that low
Washington altitude....looks like you'll have to bring it here to Colorado,
in which case I have a truck for it...

Thanks!

CJ
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:27:59 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - idling problems

Hi gang,

Henry developed a nasty habit of dying every time we stopped at a light or
stop sign. Very annoying. After consulting my records, I decided he probably
could stand a new rotor and distributor cap along with a fresh fuel filter.
When I started changing the fuel filter, I found the main problem. The
rubber gasoline lines on either side of the old filter were cracked. split
and leaking. These lines were about a year old and came with the Fram fuel
filter. So... If you suddenly develop idling problems and use a Fram inline
fuel filter, check those rubber lines.

This list has helped me beyond description in talking to the guys on the
other side of the parts counter. He wanted to sell me a cap for a 352
instead of a 351M. He then wanted the model number of the distributor saying
Ford used 5 different caps. An ignorant man would have been stymied. Thanks
group for keeping the knowledge base building.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:47:28 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Posi rear

Geoff writes: >>I heard that if you
jack up the rear end high enough off the ground so that the rear wheels
> don't touch, and spin one wheel with your hands, the other wheel should
turn in the same direction. True?

True. If it is the ordinary "open" rear the opposite wheel will try to turn in
the opposite direction.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:00:11 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rotor and TDC

I use my bronco for that job :-) This may be too late but I'm bored so will
answer anyway :-)

On ford dura spark systems you can set the initial timing right on the money
with engine off (static timing) by getting the crank at the location of the
initial timing with piston on the compression stroke. I generally find the
compression stroke by bumping the starter until you can feel pressure with
your finger or thumb over the spark plug hole. Use a breaker bar and socket
to align the crank on the timing mark, exactly, going past and then bringing
it back in the direction it runs to keep the backlash out of the cam etc..

Now line up the star rotor with the center rectangle in the pickup coil so
that they match edge to edge all the way around and lock it down. I promise
you that you will not even need a timing light to check it if you follow
this procedure and.......all the dizzy parts are working. With points there
is another way, similar but not quite the same procedure. Let me know if
you need that.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Dist again and this time I forgot to mark the location of the rotor.

> town. I need to get the truck started and moved back to its
> side of the
> garage and not in the middle.
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 17:08:23 -0700
From: grahams thefuture.net (Smith, Graham)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ingnition Modulator

Ladies and Gentlemen,

Could someone please tell me what the voltage reading on the coil tach lead
and battery lead should be if you Ignition modulator is working correctly?

This is in a 1978 F150 with a 400M. I have just replaced the motor and the
coil and I am only getting 2.5 volts on the Tach lead and about 6-7 volts on
the battery lead.

Thanks
Graham

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:18:25 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - help! Oil leaks on a 390

You don't say what kind of engine you have, but perhaps you might check you
oil sending unit to see if thats not leaking. If it above the oil filter.


At 03:42 PM 9/11/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Ford list people,
>
>I am having problems trying to stop my truck from leaking oil. It is
>leaking between the aluminum oil filter thingy and the block. I have
>replaced the gasket 3 times and it still leaks. What can I do to stop
>it?
>
>schu
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>
>

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:15:47 -0400
From: "Ray Taschenberger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ingnition Modulator

Ignition module on a '77 w/ 460 reads 5.8--6.0 volts at tac-test point and
right at 10. volts at other point. This is at idle. Batt. lead should go up
to battery voltage while cranking. Good luck , ray

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:22:39 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - heated tailgate
>
>>Hey Guys, I heard that Ch*vy is coming out with a new heated tailgate. Says
its to keep your hands from freezing in the winter while pushing. Sorry for
the lack of FTE content but I found it humorous.

Someone post the whole joke again. I don't remember it all, but it starts
out announcing that Ford's will be available with heated rear glass for
winter vision, Dodge has heated something else, then Chevy has the heated
tailgate. The first time I saw it I thought it was a real press release.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:54:26 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - towing with a Bronco
>
>>Does anybody have experience in towing with bronco's? I have a '78
fullsize, it has the front disc brakes and a strong drivetrain, weighs 5540
lbs with a full tank of gas.. even with two people and the back full of
camping gear, tools, parts etc it usually does the hills at 50+ mph
(351M).

Well I have been unable to determine who started this thread, sorry. There
is another small problem with towing a large trailer with a Bronco. That
short wheelbase is going to let a big trailer whip you around if you get
.... careless. I had a G*C Jimmy when no one knew what one was and my
brother had a R mch rger. We both had the same problem. The power was there,
the suspension could handle the weight, but the trucks would verge on
becoming uncontrollable with his boat, an 18 foot old, heavy monster in tow.
My crew cab, OTOH would pull it all day with no problems. Just something
else to think about....

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:00:28 PDT
From: "Dane Berthelsen"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum System Diagram

What is the best source for a diagram of Vacuum System ? I have looked in my
shop manual, but I can’t find much information - maybe I just looked in the
wrong places. I want to make sure all the vacuum pipes are connected
correct. My truck has been in the shop a couple of times lately, and I have
noticed they forgot to connect some of the hoses. My understanding for the
vacuum system is limited – I believe it’s mostly for emission control
purpose, but part of the system is also used to control the distributor,
carburetor, and choke.

Is someone could please give me the vacuum system 101 explanation (the short
version), I would appreciate it.

My truck is a 1977 F150 400 4x4.

Thanks,
Dane

______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:10:00 -0700
From: sdelanty ....

---

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