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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #329
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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, September 14 1999 Volume 03 : Number 329



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Wooden spacers :Caution
RE: FTE 61-79 - The 300, and what did I just step in?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor
FTE 61-79 - looking for picture of mount
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wooden spacers :Caution
Re: FTE 61-79 - Speakers
FTE 61-79 - Drivetrain help
FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging
FTE 61-79 - gasket questions t/case
FTE 61-79 - Problem with that 427
FTE 61-79 - idling problems
FTE 61-79 - Posi rear
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rotor and TDC
FTE 61-79 - Ingnition Modulator
Re: FTE 61-79 - help! Oil leaks on a 390
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ingnition Modulator
FTE 61-79 - heated tailgate
FTE 61-79 - towing with a Bronco
FTE 61-79 - Vacuum System Diagram
Re: FTE 61-79 - Drivetrain help
RE: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum System Diagram
FTE 61-79 - 429 firetruck
FTE 61-79 - FE pulley source
RE: FTE 61-79 - Drivetrain help
FTE 61-79 - Many Lives of the 300
FTE 61-79 - modulator valve/ it made it!!
FTE 61-79 - winter storage
Re: FTE 61-79 - Still not charging
Re: FTE 61-79 - winter storage
FTE 61-79 - rotor and distributer timing
Re: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ingnition Modulator
FTE 61-79 - P/S conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - Problem with that 427
FTE 61-79 - Pictures of my 76 parked on a glacier.
Re: FTE 61-79 - P/S conversion
FTE 61-79 - Bigger F serie trucks...

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 06:46:06 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Wooden spacers :Caution

If you use proper gaskets, the torque requirement should be light enough to
preclude this. My Edlebrock is machined wrong or the manifold is bolted in
improperly so that it does not have a flat surface in every radial plane so
when you tighten the bolts the carb is twisted in such a way that the
secondarys bind. I had to torque them unevenly, diagonally so that the carb
body stayed straight but there is no sign of leakage. I used to tighten
them prettty well too but it's not really necessary if you set it up
correctly. If you are concerned about the nuts backing off use blue loctite
but don't over tighten in any case.

Wood expands and contracts very dramatically with moisture so you MUST seal
the wood before using it for this application. Plywood should work if you
seal it really well and use the proper gaskets, but make sure there are no
voids in the section you use for this. A better choice might be to laminate
some Luan floor panels and make your own plywood. 3 layers would be close
to 1/2" and Luan is made especially to be free of voids and actually
guaranteed to be free from voids. Get some scraps from a lumber yard or
contractor, glue them together and press them while they set, cut out the
chunk you need, machine it, seal it and there you are :-) Believe it or not
this would actually be preferable to solid wood because solid wood has voids
and soft spots too, Luan does not.

The most common example of this problem is with thermostat housings.
Unfortunately these useually do have to be pretty tight since the gaskets
are very thin and the pressures are fairly high. I personally have never
broken one but my time is probably coming.....:-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Hehe..... I have broken 5 baseplates (holley 4bbl) using plastic and
>
> > until got a replacement part. When I tightened the carb down one
> > of the mounting tabs cracked off the base. If I had to do it again I
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 07:08:52 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - The 300, and what did I just step in?

That should have been "names" :-)

I agree with the ford lovers here (since I am one also :-)) The hype about
chevy's being cheaper to build is unfortunately mostly true but it is also
realative. You can build a dynamite 302 easily as cheaply today as any 300
size chevy motor and as mentioned it will probably live longer. 351
windsors are almost as cheap to build as the chevys now and certaily hold
their own if built on the same lines. While the 454 is more commonly used
in power boats and drag racers than the 460, it may be due to cost or
perhaps because GM is roughly 10 times as large as ford, model wise so there
are more of them out there.

The 460 can be made to run 9k rpm and live. Those of us on this list know
of at least one which has been doing it for 3 years in truck pulls. Yes, it
probably cost more than an equivelant chevy but is that really the issue?
How much more? How long is the investment amortized? How much satisfaction
does the owner get out of beating the chevy's at their own (so called) game?

I drive fords, build fords, think fords and when I finally build that killer
engine it will be a ford and put in a ford and no ford I ever own or buy
will ever have a chevy engine in it simply because if I wanted a chevy
engine I would buy a chevy (and I don't :-)) For the same reasons they
won't have mopar engines in them either, no matter which one happens to be
the best or have the best reputation etc..

I firmly believe I can build a 15 mpg daily driver with over 400 hp and 500#
of torque that pulls from zero rpm and one day will prove this out. For an
I-6 or 302 or even 351 to do this will not get the same mileage or torque
and power will be achieved at much higher rpms so to each his own, I happen
to be a FORD BB guy....OOOUGH OOOUGH OOOUGH!

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Ok Now. Lets close with a prayer-
>
> Our fathers who art in Dearborn, Hallowed be thy name.........
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 07:34:15 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor

These years use a dash pot to control the idle. If this has been bypassed
the throttle plates cannot close all the way when you shut it off so it
still get's fuel. They are designed to shut completely to prevent fuel from
getting in the engine to keep it running due to the "lean burn" philosophy
which leaves the combustion chambers hotter than older engines.

The dashpot is usually an electric selenoid with a plunger which engages the
throttle arm on the carb or some other point in the linkage. The linkage
should stop on this rather than the screw in the carb base which is actually
just a safety stop to prevent the throttle plates from closing so tightly
that they stick. There should be an obvious gap between the linkage and
this screw with engine running at idle and choke off. If not it will run on
when shut off.

Bypassing the dashpot will cause this problem. If no fuel gets to the
engine, it can not run on or diesel.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> this truck may have and also when you are pumping water and
> you shut it off
> it "diesels" for a little while any clue as to why? thanks
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Date: Fri, 03 Jan 1997 07:20:26 -0500
From: Joe Delaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - looking for picture of mount

Group,
can anybody scan me a picture of the 73-77 transfer case mount for a
c6/FE combo
4wd truck..I have the 2 piece mount that attaches to the frame I just
want a picture
to confirm how it all goes together..
Joe
68 4x4 390 c-6/np205

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 07:46:07 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wooden spacers :Caution

I think Ill make mine out'a red aromatic cedar. Yea, it's soft but I can work
around that. With a nice clear coat sealant to let the grain show through.
Gotta leave the bores unsealed though as I love the scent of that wood and it
might make the exhaust more palatable. At the very least it'll keep the moths
(and maybe a few c*&^ys) away!

A little tongue in cheek humor!

George

In a message dated 9/13/99 1:20:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Doug_Neely bc.sympatico.ca writes:


Just a word of caution on using wooden spacers. I made one for
my 351C once (due to a rotted EGR plate) as a temporary measure
until got a replacement part. When I tightened the carb down one
of the mounting tabs cracked off the base. If I had to do it again I
think I would use something a lot harder than plywood, like mahogany
as it's a lot less compressable.
Cheers,

Doug
>>
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 04:58:08 PDT
From: "White Wolf"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Speakers

Yesterday I put a pair of Pioneer 160W 6x9's in my '66 F100 and they sound
great.. They're a little pricey ($90 at Best Buy[my ass]) but you can't
hardly beat the sound in my opinion.. no to figure out the sub
placement...hmmmm.


> >
> >
>What kind of speakers did you settle on for the beast(Envy?)? The speakers
>are Radio Shack Optimus? Are they a 5 1/4 coaxial or dual
>cone

______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:47:29 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Drivetrain help

> Also, on the subject of drivelines, what's with this shaking
> and vibration when I'm going from a dead stop to first.
...
> wonder if'n it might be the LSD that's making it shake.
> Whenever I rev it and drop the clutch to do a burnout
> I never get the shudder. Plus I never get it any other time
> when I engage the clutch (as in an upshift or downshift).

This sounds like you might have a little bit of grease or
similar contamination on your clutch disc. From a dead
stop, you let the clutch "slip" a bit more than when up
or down shifting while moving, so if it is only a few small
spots that dont grab quite as well as the rest of the clutch
disc, it would be more noticeable when lettin it grab slowly.
Does it shudder like that from a dead stop in reverse ?
If so (even if it is not as severe), I would guess that somehow
the clutch disc got some oil or grease on it.


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 04:08:11 -0700
From: "Scott Jensen"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Still not charging

Been there, done that. The problem with a some of the store testers is they
only test voltage under a no load condition. I would charge the battery
enough to drive the truck down there and have the current checked. For fun,
with the truck off, take the positive clamp off the battery and connect
your multimeter up to it in series. Make sure it's on the highest scale. If
there's a short to ground someplace, this will show it. But, from what
you've descibed about your voltage readings, I'd say it's the alternater.

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:48:43 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - gasket questions t/case

Hey Joe,

Yes, you should use a gasket (the tranny guy told me this) You'll probably
need to make one from a roll of gasket material....

CJ
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:48:27 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Problem with that 427

Hey Burt,

I'm sorry to say, but that 427 just will never run right at that low
Washington altitude....looks like you'll have to bring it here to Colorado,
in which case I have a truck for it...

Thanks!

CJ
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:27:59 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - idling problems

Hi gang,

Henry developed a nasty habit of dying every time we stopped at a light or
stop sign. Very annoying. After consulting my records, I decided he probably
could stand a new rotor and distributor cap along with a fresh fuel filter.
When I started changing the fuel filter, I found the main problem. The
rubber gasoline lines on either side of the old filter were cracked. split
and leaking. These lines were about a year old and came with the Fram fuel
filter. So... If you suddenly develop idling problems and use a Fram inline
fuel filter, check those rubber lines.

This list has helped me beyond description in talking to the guys on the
other side of the parts counter. He wanted to sell me a cap for a 352
instead of a 351M. He then wanted the model number of the distributor saying
Ford used 5 different caps. An ignorant man would have been stymied. Thanks
group for keeping the knowledge base building.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:47:28 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Posi rear

Geoff writes: >>I heard that if you
jack up the rear end high enough off the ground so that the rear wheels
don't touch, and spin one wheel with your hands, the other wheel should
turn in the same direction. True?

True. If it is the ordinary "open" rear the opposite wheel will try to turn in
the opposite direction.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:00:11 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rotor and TDC

I use my bronco for that job :-) This may be too late but I'm bored so will
answer anyway :-)

On ford dura spark systems you can set the initial timing right on the money
with engine off (static timing) by getting the crank at the location of the
initial timing with piston on the compression stroke. I generally find the
compression stroke by bumping the starter until you can feel pressure with
your finger or thumb over the spark plug hole. Use a breaker bar and socket
to align the crank on the timing mark, exactly, going past and then bringing
it back in the direction it runs to keep the backlash out of the cam etc..

Now line up the star rotor with the center rectangle in the pickup coil so
that they match edge to edge all the way around and lock it down. I promise
you that you will not even need a timing light to check it if you follow
this procedure and.......all the dizzy parts are working. With points there
is another way, similar but not quite the same procedure. Let me know if
you need that.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Dist again and this time I forgot to mark the location of the rotor.

> town. I need to get the truck started and moved back to its
> side of the
> garage and not in the middle.
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 17:08:23 -0700
From: grahams thefuture.net (Smith, Graham)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ingnition Modulator

Ladies and Gentlemen,

Could someone please tell me what the voltage reading on the coil tach lead
and battery lead should be if you Ignition modulator is working correctly?

This is in a 1978 F150 with a 400M. I have just replaced the motor and the
coil and I am only getting 2.5 volts on the Tach lead and about 6-7 volts on
the battery lead.

Thanks
Graham

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:18:25 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - help! Oil leaks on a 390

You don't say what kind of engine you have, but perhaps you might check you
oil sending unit to see if thats not leaking. If it above the oil filter.


At 03:42 PM 9/11/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Ford list people,
>
>I am having problems trying to stop my truck from leaking oil. It is
>leaking between the aluminum oil filter thingy and the block. I have
>replaced the gasket 3 times and it still leaks. What can I do to stop
>it?
>
>schu
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>
>

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:15:47 -0400
From: "Ray Taschenberger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ingnition Modulator

Ignition module on a '77 w/ 460 reads 5.8--6.0 volts at tac-test point and
right at 10. volts at other point. This is at idle. Batt. lead should go up
to battery voltage while cranking. Good luck , ray

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:22:39 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - heated tailgate

>>Hey Guys, I heard that Ch*vy is coming out with a new heated tailgate. Says
its to keep your hands from freezing in the winter while pushing. Sorry for
the lack of FTE content but I found it humorous.

Someone post the whole joke again. I don't remember it all, but it starts
out announcing that Ford's will be available with heated rear glass for
winter vision, Dodge has heated something else, then Chevy has the heated
tailgate. The first time I saw it I thought it was a real press release.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:54:26 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - towing with a Bronco

>>Does anybody have experience in towing with bronco's? I have a '78
fullsize, it has the front disc brakes and a strong drivetrain, weighs 5540
lbs with a full tank of gas.. even with two people and the back full of
camping gear, tools, parts etc it usually does the hills at 50+ mph
(351M).

Well I have been unable to determine who started this thread, sorry. There
is another small problem with towing a large trailer with a Bronco. That
short wheelbase is going to let a big trailer whip you around if you get
.... careless. I had a G*C Jimmy when no one knew what one was and my
brother had a R mch rger. We both had the same problem. The power was there,
the suspension could handle the weight, but the trucks would verge on
becoming uncontrollable with his boat, an 18 foot old, heavy monster in tow.
My crew cab, OTOH would pull it all day with no problems. Just something
else to think about....

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:00:28 PDT
From: "Dane Berthelsen"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum System Diagram

What is the best source for a diagram of Vacuum System ? I have looked in my
shop manual, but I canít find much information - maybe I just looked in the
wrong places. I want to make sure all the vacuum pipes are connected
correct. My truck has been in the shop a couple of times lately, and I have
noticed they forgot to connect some of the hoses. My understanding for the
vacuum system is limited Ė I believe itís mostly for emission control
purpose, but part of the system is also used to control the distributor,
carburetor, and choke.

Is someone could please give me the vacuum system 101 explanation (the short
version), I would appreciate it.

My truck is a 1977 F150 400 4x4.

Thanks,
Dane

______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:10:00 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Drivetrain help

>> Also, on the subject of drivelines, what's with this shaking
>> and vibration when I'm going from a dead stop to first.
>...
>> wonder if'n it might be the LSD that's making it shake.

Uhhhh, could be. Please don't drive when you're on drugs...


>> Whenever I rev it and drop the clutch to do a burnout
>> I never get the shudder. Plus I never get it any other time
>> when I engage the clutch (as in an upshift or downshift).

Well, of course there's all the usual suspects... Worn or warped
flywheel or pressure plate, or oil or grease on the clutch disc.

The other common problem is bad motor/transmission mounts.
If the mounts are at all spongy (or the hardware not well secured!)
then when you begin to let out the clutch and accelerate, the
engine moves backwards slightly (well, actually the engine kinda
stays put and the rest of the truck accelerates forward around it).
This motion pushes the engine back against the clutch release rod
and tends to disengage the clutch slightly. As the engine swings
back forward on it's spongy mounts, this pulls it away from the
release rod, and the clutch grabs harder again. This jerks the
truck forward a little again and the engine rocks back on it's
mounts again, pushing harder on the release rod and disengaging
the clutch again... It forms a nasty little positive feedback loop
with the engine oscillating backward and forward in the frame and
continues until the clutch is fully released.

The geometry of the clutch linkage really sucks, and it doesn't
take much back and forth motion of the engine relative to the frame
to really get things shuddering.
If you're unlucky enough to have a clutch that shudders a bit anyway
due to bad flywheel/whatever, then this positive feedback mechanism
can really amplify it.
Someday maybe I'll scavange the wrecking yards and fabricate a nice
hydraulic clutch release mechanism. That would help cure that problem...

I had another problem on my '71 that made the clutch shudder like mad
sometimes... Bad slip yoke on the driveshaft. Sometimes when you
started to let out the clutch, the worn slip yoke would bind and the
rear axle would actually push forward slightly on the tranny/engine.
You could feel the gearshift lever actually move forward very slightly.
After a fraction of a second it would pop loose and slide free again
and you could feel the tranny move back into place again. When it
did that, the clutch would shudder like crazy. A new slip yoke took
care of that problem.

Lots of things can cause or contribute to clutch shudder. Some are
inside the bellhouing and some are outside. Eliminate all the
external (easiest) possibilities like old motor mounts before
you split the engine and tranny apart to examine internal clutch parts.

Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:11:34 -0700
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum System Diagram

Do you have the factory manual or is it a Chilton or something like that? I
have the OE at home and a Mitchell as well. I even think '77 in the
Mitchell I have has nice drawings (showing the length of hose needed even).
If you don't find anything immediately, email me off list and I'll fax it to
'ya...
Rich

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dane Berthelsen [mailto:dbdane hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, September 13, 1999 10:00 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum System Diagram



What is the best source for a diagram of Vacuum System ? I have looked in my

shop manual, but I can't find much information - maybe I just looked in the
wrong places. I want to make sure all the vacuum pipes are connected
correct. My truck has been in the shop a couple of times lately, and I have
noticed they forgot to connect some of the hoses. My understanding for the
vacuum system is limited - I believe it's mostly for emission control
purpose, but part of the system is also used to control the distributor,
carburetor, and choke.

Is someone could please give me the vacuum system 101 explanation (the short

version), I would appreciate it.

My truck is a 1977 F150 400 4x4.

Thanks,
Dane

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:22:00 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 429 firetruck

>>>Hey all
i was wanting to know in town at the fire department they have a 79 ford i
think its a 700 with a 429 4v could some one shed some light on the specs
this truck may have and also when you are pumping water and you shut it off
it "diesels" for a little while any clue as to why? thanks

I am a volunteer firefighter, our dept has an '89 f-800 with a diesel and 5
spd trans/ 2 spd rear end. If i remember correctly, the gvw of this thing is
around 28,000 lbs. It has a 1150gpm pump. The dept in a neighboring town
has a similar truck (f-800) with the 429 4v and some kind of auto trans and
an 800 gpm pump. The gas engine was a popular option for small fire depts
because of much lower initial costs, but its very very under powered
compared to the diesels.

Fire Pumpers have an auxillary engine cooler that pumps some of the
firefighting water through a heat exchanger to cool the engine and trans
during pumping operations. These can get plugged with mud or sand and make
the truck run warmer. Also there could be heat buildup under the hood
because there is little airflow compared to when the truck is rolling. We
have 427 ch*v pumper that vapor locks if you dont lift the hood while
pumping.

Don Jones
1970 f-250 4x4 ~Fordzilla~

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:57:55 -0500
From: "Brian C Nyman"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE pulley source

Which did you have for the 390, stock or fancy ?

Brian Nyman
bnyman allina.com

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:02:55 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Drivetrain help

> >> Also, on the subject of drivelines, what's with this shaking
> >> and vibration when I'm going from a dead stop to first.
> >...
>
> >> Whenever I rev it and drop the clutch to do a burnout
> >> I never get the shudder. Plus I never get it any other time
> >> when I engage the clutch (as in an upshift or downshift).
>
>
Have you recently replaced the clutch disk without having the flywheel
surfaced (turned)?
I had this problem once on a rice burner pickup I used to have (gas was
expensive then and dad bought it for me.) At 80K miles the clutch started
slipping when hot so dad insisted on getting it fixed. He paid for the
labor, clutch disk, and pressure plate but left the flywheel as is. After
that I always had a chatter on start. Surfacing the flywheel is like
turning brake rotors. Trues up the surface and removes any accumulated
glaze. Allows the disk to seat well and prevents chatter. I finally got
sick of it so..... I set the parking brake, revved the motor and slowly let
the clutch out. I let it slip for a second or two, probably burned off 20K
miles of wear but it seated the clutch (basically resurfaced the flywheel
using the clutch disk) and I had no more chatter after that.

Tom H
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:14:46 -0500
From: "Brian C Nyman"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Many Lives of the 300

Here's another I-6 300 story for you fans. My dad has a '78 F150 long-box with
180K miles on it. He's aware that the motor is getting a little tired, but he
bought the whole truck from an uncle of mine for $500 over six years ago - with
a $100 profit going to my uncle, mind you. Okay, you've got the background,
here's the story.

Another of my uncles lives in Wisconsin and said he found a 360 for my dad to
put in a '69 F150 (that he also bought for $500), he just needed to drive down
to central Wisconsin to get it. They gassed up "Lightnin" (as we call it) and
headed off on their way. It's 260 miles from northern MN to where they were
heading. They made pretty good time getting there, around four hours.

Once there, they talked the guy out of not only his 360, but a good 351W, a
Chrysler 2.2 Minivan motor, a couple of full-size ford transmisssions, some
tires, headers, etc., all for a grand total of $300. They loaded up Lightnin'
and went on their way. The suspension was bottomed out. That six cylinder made
it through the rolling hills of WI and MN with a major payload, and still kept
above 45 most of the way. Granted, it's not the Rockies or Appalachia, but it
was still a pretty major accomplishment.

Postscript to the story: the truck made it home that night (all in one day) and
was parked overnight. They blew a front wheel bearing less than three miles
from home with that same full load. We had to load up the truck on a car hauler
so we could get it to where we could work on it. The load bent the spindles on
the 2-ton car hauler, and put that behicle in the shop for a while.

Brian Nyman
bnyman allina.com

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:07:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Daniel DiMartino
Subject: FTE 61-79 - modulator valve/ it made it!!

awhile back i asked for some info about how to fix my tranny
that wouldn't shift into drive. someone suggested that i change
the modulator valve, of which my chilton's manual makes no
reference, and it worked like a charm!! i forget who you were
but thanks!

the truck had been shipped from overseas and i picked it up last
friday- 10 sept- and drove it back to massachusetts without a
problem. quite a risk knowing the truck wasn't running
properly, and i had yet to even drive it!!! but it made it
through one extreemly rainy day, 5hrs, no sweat! the only
bummer was changing out the modulator in the shipping company
parking lot in the rain, and having no spare tire and four 16.5"
rims and remembering that the gas cap key was in my roll-away
tool box in maine...

p.s the odometer now reads 13,875 miles

===
Daniel DiMartino

1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:43:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Daniel DiMartino
Subject: FTE 61-79 - winter storage

looking for any tricks anyone might have when it comes to long
term storage, i.e. preservation, oil levels, moisture control.
i won't be doing much with my truck until next year once the
winter gets going (i'm in the north east) and will be keeping my
'68 f-250 in a barn that isn't the best as far as being a bit
damp depending on the weather, it provides good protection, just
not as cozy like a good garage.

===
Daniel DiMartino

1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 16:24:09 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Still not charging

In a message dated 9/12/1999 2:34:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu writes:


voltage reg w/ one bolt, a la Muel's experience. I hope someone can help...
Ohio Bill >>
It sounds like the Voltage Regulator is at fault and possibly the battery.
When you swapped in your regulator and measured the voltage at the battery
and only got 12.5, this is not a problem if it is charging the battery up.
The voltage will stay low in the system until the battery comes up in charge,
when the battery is charged to 14 volts your system will read 14 volts, but
not before. You need to be able to read amps charge or discharge. Safe
Rule: If light is out, alternator good, and amps are going into the battery
all is well.

So, right now you know the regulator is bad. The light being on says that
your are providing excitation to the field through the light bulb and
resistor wire. This current is not high enough to bring voltage into the
normal band, but does provide a small magnetic field and enough voltage to
start the regulator (the original one is not working). Put on a new one and
let it charge the battery up, may take 30 minutes or more just idling. Good
Luck)
Burt Hill Kennewick WA F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:03:48 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - winter storage

> looking for any tricks anyone might have when it comes to long
> term storage, i.e. preservation, oil levels, moisture control.
> i won't be doing much with my truck until next year once the
> winter gets going (i'm in the north east) and will be keeping my
> '68 f-250 in a barn that isn't the best as far as being a bit
> damp depending on the weather, it provides good protection, just
> not as cozy like a good garage.
>
> ===
> Daniel DiMartino
>
> 1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
..........

Perhaps it would be a good idea to put poison under the seat to kill
rodents such as rats and mice. They'd just love to make a nice cozy home out
of your vehicle during a cold winter.

Danger


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 17:23:18 -0400
From: Marvin & Michelle Meyer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rotor and distributer timing

A tip my great uncle, (who worked at Ford's Highland Assy plant from
1922-1969) for setting timing after pulling distributor out is this
Bring piston up to TDC on compression stroke and check that 0 is under the
timing tab on the Harmonic pully
Install distributor and make sure rotor is pointing in the vicinity of #1
cyl.
Now here's the tip, slightly rotate distributor until the slash mark on the
upper ring lines up with the raised ridge on the block near the hold down
plate/block. That will get it fired every time on any engine, and on a new
timing chain/rebuilt unit it will be exactly on time for that motor. I've
impressed many friends (Ch*vy and Do*ge) with that one, but don't tell
them.
Timing light!.......who needs them. Ohm meters are good replacements
On the line making cars they didn't have time to mechanically line things
up
Marvin
meyer stratford.webgate.net



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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 17:08:35 PDT
From: "George Litton"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor

Hey back,

The 429 Truck[and its little brother, the 370 HD] are very good heavy duty
engines. As posted elsewhere, they are very similar to car engines of the
same c.i.d.. About the only diff. is a steel[yes! steel] crenkshaft, and
heavier connecting rods. I've wanted to use one of these cranks for a
hi-perf car motor. The dis on the crank snout is larger, similar to a 361,
391 FE. Thoses are the only real differences in these motors.


George Litton in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho


>From: TWL1911 aol.com
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor
>Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 20:46:17 EDT
>
>Hey all
>i was wanting to know in town at the fire department they have a 79 ford i
>think its a 700 with a 429 4v could some one shed some light on the specs
>this truck may have and also when you are pumping water and you shut it off
>it "diesels" for a little while any clue as to why? thanks
>Travis
>"ol Blue"
>66 F-250 4spd 352
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:55:55 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ingnition Modulator

I dont have exact values, but I'd say your close, especially if the motor is
running (I presume it is since you didnt say). The main reason for these
values are

#1 the Battery lead had a resistor wire feeding it (Similar to a ballast
resistor in those OTHER brands). It's main job is to limit the amount of
current being drawn by the coil.

#2 The Tack lead is better understood with points, though the concept is the
same. A ground gets applied to the coil, allowing it to draw current (as
limited by the resistor wire mentioned above). When the points open (or the
ground removed as in a duraspark sys), the magnetic field generated in the
coil by the current flowing collapses, generating the High voltage in the
secondary winding. If you are trying to read this signal with a DC voltmeter,
you are going to get a very low reading as it's constantly pulsing between 0V
and the 6-7 allowed by the resistor wire.

Hope that's not too much theory for ya!

George


In a message dated 9/13/99 11:06:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
grahams thefuture.net writes:


Could someone please tell me what the voltage reading on the coil tach lead
and battery lead should be if you Ignition modulator is working correctly?

This is in a 1978 F150 with a 400M. I have just replaced the motor and the
coil and I am only getting 2.5 volts on the Tach lead and about 6-7 volts on
the battery lead.

Thanks
Graham
>>
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:40:13 EDT
From: OldTrux aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - P/S conversion

OK guys, I've been lookin' and asking for a year now. Don't make me do it
(put a GM part on my Ford) ! My '66 F100 4x4 needs a P/S box that mounts
outside the frame rail and the pitman arm points toward the rear (ala GM) I
cant find a Ford box that will fit (at least not one that anyone is willing
to part with). Will a Ford pump (I still need that too, along with a FE
bracket, etc!) work with a GM box? Custom hoses? Borgenson connection?
Pitman arm to drag link connection? Please help!!! My arms can't take this
much longer!
NEXT QUESTION: Has anyone replaced the Dana 30 w/drums with a Dana 44 and
discs? Yes, I need a power brake booster and bracket too!
Jerry
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:55:24 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Problem with that 427

In a message dated 9/13/1999 6:51:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time, BDIJXS aol.com
writes:



I'm sorry to say, but that 427 just will never run right at that low
Washington altitude....looks like you'll have to bring it here to Colorado,
in which case I have a truck for it...

>>
Yeah 350 feet above sea level, makes for great winters and I am close enough
to Idaho to find some of the kind of mountains you have. Thanks to everyone
who responded I think we now have a direction, at least for the time being.
We are going to disassemble it and have block, heads, and crank checked for
cracks and take it from there. I need to buy the Steve Christ book and maybe
some others. If we get a clean bill of health in the crack department we are
not sure if we will build it or opt to sell, I know I would feel bad putting
in low compression pistons just so it could use pump gas. Time will tell,
Thanks again.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:09:45 -0800
From: "Matthew Schumacher"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pictures of my 76 parked on a glacier.

Ford lovers,

Check out the new pictures the odoa crew just added to the web site. We
took a trip the the knik glacier here in Alaska on sunday, and got some
killer pictures.

I would love to hear your comments.

The address is:

www.odoa.org/pictures.html

schu

btw, the trucks that you see in the pictures are a 76 Ford and a 95
GMC. I drive the classic ford of coarse :)
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:15:50 -0700
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - P/S conversion

OldTrux aol.com wrote:

> OK guys, I've been lookin' and asking for a year now. Don't make me do it
> (put a GM part on my Ford) ! My '66 F100 4x4 needs a P/S box that mounts
> outside the frame rail and the pitman arm points toward the rear (ala GM) I
> cant find a Ford box that will fit (at least not one that anyone is willing
> to part with). Will a Ford pump (I still need that too, along with a FE
> bracket, etc!) work with a GM box? Custom hoses? Borgenson connection?
> Pitman arm to drag link connection? Please help!!! My arms can't take this
> much longer!
> NEXT QUESTION: Has anyone replaced the Dana 30 w/drums with a Dana 44 and
> discs? Yes, I need a power brake booster and bracket too!
> Jerry

Don't use the GM box. A previous owner already tried that on my 63. I just
removed the box and am working on my own front suspension. Anyway, there are a
few problems that you might run into. One is bump steer. It might turn into a
problem down the road if you decide to lift the truck any. Placing the steering
box in front of the axle caused the axle to move toward the box when you
encounter a bump. The GM box and pitman arm got in the way when turning right.
The tires would rub and limit my turning radius. Any power box is going to
exert more force on the steering arm of the front knuckle. I went thru 2 sets
of bolts and 3 sets of studs that kept breaking off. The installer of the GM
box also decided to notch the frame to fit the box. I have some pics of it on
my so called site

....


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