From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #328
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61-79-list-digest Monday, September 13 1999 Volume 03 : Number 328



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - 427 Engine for Truck
FTE 61-79 - Re 427
FTE 61-79 - 427 info
FTE 61-79 - selling NOS pickup bed floor panel
FTE 61-79 - gasket questions t/case
FTE 61-79 - test
FTE 61-79 - Re: Ford Vrs. the other guys
Re: FTE 61-79 - 427 Engine for Truck
Re: FTE 61-79 - Flooded Hot Starts
FTE 61-79 - RTV - (was Flooded Hot Restarts)
FTE 61-79 - 2+2
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2+2
FTE 61-79 - Still not charging
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2+2
RE: FTE 61-79 - Still not charging
FTE 61-79 - Info for the new guy
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rotor and TDC
Re: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor
FTE 61-79 - 70 wiring diagram
Re: FTE 61-79 - Still not charging
Re: FTE 61-79 - Still not charging
Re: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor
FTE 61-79 - T5 installation, etc...
RE: FTE 61-79 - 70 wiring diagram
Re: FTE 61-79 - 427 motor for sale
FTE 61-79 - Re: - Radios
Re: FTE 61-79 - 427 Engine for Truck
FTE 61-79 - New Product
RE: FTE 61-79 - Electrically Fixed! I hope!!!!!
Re: FTE 61-79 - 427 motor for sale
Re: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor
Re: FTE 61-79 - 70 wiring diagram
FTE 61-79 - Wooden spacers :Caution
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wooden spacers :Caution

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 08:25:37 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 427 Engine for Truck

In a message dated 9/12/99 3:35:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
SHill48337 aol.com writes:

> Any ideas, experience or
> thoughts are welcome. I had always wanted one of these as I went from
teens
>
> to 20s in the 60's, but now I am thinking maybe this is a bygone engine
and
> not worth the effort??

What a neat find. I don't have a great deal of experience with that motor
except what I gleaned from Steve Christ's Book and here and there. According
to Christ, many 427 were used in marine or industrial applications and may
require some machining; if this is one of those you will have to carefully
check the block to determine exactly what you have and to make sure its worth
your effort. There is also the possibility that it is a reverse rotation.


Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 08:08:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re 427

WOW WHAT A SNAG!!!! you got the deal af the century with that one.
Rebuild stuff isn't as bad as you think for the 427. I built my 429 TJ
("Thunder Jet") mostly using PAW (Performance Automotive Warehouse). 818
678-3000 to order a catalog. They have most everything for the 427 in
here as well. If PAW cant get you what you need, I was talking to a guy
with a AC Cobra replica that said Ford is now producing the 427 as a new
crate motor. I havent verified this but it seems they are getting them
from somewhere. So I'm sure that you can get all the rebuild stuff you
need from Ford Motorsports too.

Laters, Danny

77 F250 Hiboy 4X4 429 TJ

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 08:29:34 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 427 info

> Burt and son, DO NOT GET RID OF THAT ENGINE!!!!!!!! You have just been
> given a gift that anyone on the list would love to receive! (At least I
> would!) Someone wanting to build a 427 for a restoration would pay
> dearly for that engine! I wouldn't be surprised if you could get several
> thousand dollars for it!
> If I remember right, the W-code 427 with a single 4bbl carb was rated
> at 415 hp and the R-code with dual 4bbl's was rated at 425 hp. All 427's
> , I think had solid lifter cams and about 11.5 to 12.5 to one
> compression.

Actually a 2X4 dual-plane 427 MR at 12.5 to 1 CR puts out closer to
500-525 HP. The Tunnel Wedge MR could run over 550. The ports, though,
don't look any bigger than a 390 port. If the intake ports are about 3
inches tall you have a high-riser and though they make 550-575 HP and
525 lbs ft of torque (with a dual plane, imagine if they had made a
Tunnel Wedge 2X4 intake for it) in stock form they are an absolute total
piece of junk, a menace to society, and you must allow me to come and
take it off your hands tomorrow before you hurt yourself with
it!!!...:-) Hey, I'm just trying to help.

You will want to find out how it got to the school. If Ford gave it to
them, it could be rejected castings or something similar. You will want
to have the block and heads sonic checked, and the crank and rods
magnifluxed. If everything looks OK, it's time to go shopping for a
Cobra kit car to put together.
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 08:22:34 -0500
From: "Luis LLano"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - selling NOS pickup bed floor panel

Have an NOS metal bed-floor panel for an 8 foot bed F100 pickup. Its for a
late '60, early '70s model. Mint condition. Asking $300. Located in
South-East Texas.



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Date: Thu, 02 Jan 1997 09:42:50 -0500
From: Joe Delaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - gasket questions t/case

Group,
when assembling the tranny and transfer case. I see there was a paper
gasket
between the trans and the adapter and the adapter and t case..Do i need
to use
these or just use silicone sealant?
joe

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 10:15:08 -0500
From: kimchi webcombo.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - test

test

- -----------------------------------------------
'78 F-250 Custom 2WD w/SuperCab
300 I-6 Heavy Duty version, 1-bbl. Carter
Warner T18, 3.31 Dana 61
Power Brakes & Manual Steering - what a combo!
295,000 miles, and still going strong!
- ----------------------------------------------



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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 09:04:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Ford Vrs. the other guys

Lee
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> This is a lil outta hand man, I thought you were kidding, obviously
> not.this
> is really unfounded negativity to Fords.

AMEN... either keep the list content to Ford or join a CTE list... to
each his own... PLEASE

I posted a comment or two this morning to the perf-list about the same
thing.. I don't care what engine a person likes or dislikes... the
point is, NO ONE has twisted my arm to make me buy a Ford or pay more
for parts or.. well you get the picture... I made the decision.. Ch*vy
lovers make theirs... to each his own...

Bill in Texas
'64 F100 Shortbox ('70 351W/C4)
'90 Harley Dresser

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 13:18:04 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 427 Engine for Truck

In a message dated 9/12/99 12:35:09 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
SHill48337 aol.com writes:


a cross bolted, side oiled, huge ported heads (from the port size it is a
medium riser) 427 engine sitting there for the students to tear apart. He
told me and my first reaction was not to believe him until I got a lot more
info. The instructor then let him have the engine by trading in a set of
460
heads and a chevy 350 tranny. >>

I am very Green with Envy here Bill, Great find!!

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 10:40:34 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Flooded Hot Starts

>> If I needed one and couldn't find a place to buy it I wouldn't
>> hesitate a bit to make one myself...
>
>Oh, yea, I left off:
>And knowing Steve, he'd make it out of aircraft-grade Sitka spruce plywood.
>-M-

Naw, I'd make it out of whatever was lying around the garage...
Hmmm, I can see a nice chunk of 1" particle board from here!
Too bad I don't *need* a spacer. (-:

Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 10:40:33 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RTV - (was Flooded Hot Restarts)

Marv wrote:

>Also Steve, do you know of a commercial source for non-acedic acid RTV
(moisture
>curing)?

Errr... I dunno. I've never tried to *buy* any. (altho I've used plenty!)
Next time I'm at my local electronics store I'll ask about it.


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 15:08:22 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 2+2

I noticed over time that many of you folks also own Mustangs. When I'm
rich and famous, I'd like to own one also. My choice being a "2+2"
fastback. I've probably heard before, but what does "2+2" mean?
For Truck content, I still have the whole front end torn off while I strip
the core support and find a radiator. My co-worker has a '63 that had a 223
inline 6 six in it out behind his barn. The radiator looks to be 26.5 wide,
but when I look at different part #'s and such, it shows the 6 radiator to
be different from the 8. I couldn't get a better look because it's covered
in raspberries right now (the truck). My old one was a 2 row, the only
other difference I can think of would be where the mounting flange is. Anybody?
I tried Godan, but they never answered back. Mac's only carries them back
to '66. AutoKrafters has one for $209.95. Has anyone bought a radiator from
them?
I'm dying to get my truck running again. So bad, that I'm half tempted to
start it, even if just for a couple of minutes. The stainless bolt kit will
be here tomorrow, I want to put it to use right away! The poor beast looks
pitiful sitting there with it's nose pulled off and rags stuffed in the hoses.
Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH
'64 F-250
352 transplant
4 speed
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 16:41:04 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2+2

the 2+2 means 2 seats in front and 2 in back,,,as for the radiator,,,,im
begining to think i got ripped off for 318 bucks, i saw one in LMC for $215
(plus shipping) you should look in there catalog, got some great stuff in
there,,,i was just discussing with a friend that if I redid my frame and cab
i could buy every other part from that catalog and have a brand spankin new
truck.

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
True Blue Ford Blue
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 17:28:03 -0400
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Still not charging

List gurus,
I hope someone can help me with this. I posted this problem a couple
weeks ago, and except for Michigan Gary's response, I got nuthin.' Now,
of course, I got something...another truck in my driveway. Here's the
story:
A coworker has a 68 F100 w/ a swapped in 460. His truck refuses to charge,
and since I have two 68 Fords myself, I volunteered to help. Sadly, I'm
utterely baffled by this problem and am begging for your help. He's left his
truck in my driveway for now b/c I still hope I can fix it.
First, when the truck's running, it only has 12-12.5 volts at the battery
(using my trusty voltage meter) and the alternator light glows red. When
you put the lights on, voltage drops to about 11.5 volts. We pulled and
tested the alternator (at a parts store. They said it was fine). I even
swapped the alternator from my truck (which I know is good) onto his. No
difference. Next, I swapped voltage regulators. The only difference w/
mine is that his alternator light doesn't glow. However, the battery still
only shows 12-12.5 volts when running. I also tested (many times)
continuity in all the wires from the alternator to the voltage reg and even
jiggled the wiring harness around. All the wires test out good (ie no
breaks or shorts). I cleaned all the connections (on the alternator,
starter solenoid, and voltage reg. connector). Oh yeah. His truck
doesn't have a fusible link
in the big ('BAT') cable which runs from the alternator to the starter
soleniod. This checks fine for continuity anyway. Finally, I cleaned all
the ground connections on the truck, and even added a ground strap from the
engine to the frame. Nuthin.'

At this point I don't know what the problem is. According to my wiring
diagram, there's a green wire w/ red stripe (the "I" wire, methinks) which
runs from the voltage reg to the alternator light. Besides that, there's
supposed
to be a 15 Ohm resistor wired parellel w/ the idiot light, right? As I see,
these are the only two things under the dash which could make the alternator
not charge, right? But I don't understand how they could impede charging
(I figure the voltage reg 'knows' when it's getting too much or too little
voltage, and it energizes the green wire w/ red stripe, thus making the idiot
light glow). I tested the light/15 Ohm resistor according to the Chiltons,
and they tested fine. Is the ignition switch somehow involved? Simply
put, what could be wrong? I'm going to go home tonight and try mounting the
voltage reg w/ one bolt, a la Muel's experience. I hope someone can help...
Ohio Bill

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 15:48:55 -0600
From: William Whited
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2+2

I'm getting a new 4 core rad for my 460 for 250.00.

William A Whited
74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390
77 F150 Custom 460

IanBoss69 aol.com wrote:

> the 2+2 means 2 seats in front and 2 in back,,,as for the radiator,,,,im
> begining to think i got ripped off for 318 bucks, i saw one in LMC for $215
> (plus shipping) you should look in there catalog, got some great stuff in
> there,,,i was just discussing with a friend that if I redid my frame and cab
> i could buy every other part from that catalog and have a brand spankin new
> truck.
>
> Ian
> 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
> True Blue Ford Blue
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 18:19:16 -0400
From: "Tony"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Still not charging

This sounds crude but have you tried taking the positive wire off the
battery to see if the engine will stay running? Also as a quick check you
can try carefully placing a flat tip screw driver against the rear bearing.
If it is magnetized then the alternator is at least putting out something.
Also try tracing all the wires to the regulator. If you need a wiring
schematic email me and I will send you the pictures of my Chiltons manual.
Anthony D. Daniels

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of William King
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 1999 5:28 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Still not charging

List gurus,
I hope someone can help me with this. I posted this problem a couple
weeks ago, and except for Michigan Gary's response, I got nuthin.' Now,
of course, I got something...another truck in my driveway. Here's the
story:
A coworker has a 68 F100 w/ a swapped in 460. His truck refuses to charge,
and since I have two 68 Fords myself, I volunteered to help. Sadly, I'm
utterely baffled by this problem and am begging for your help. He's left his
truck in my driveway for now b/c I still hope I can fix it.
First, when the truck's running, it only has 12-12.5 volts at the battery
(using my trusty voltage meter) and the alternator light glows red. When
you put the lights on, voltage drops to about 11.5 volts. We pulled and
tested the alternator (at a parts store. They said it was fine). I even
swapped the alternator from my truck (which I know is good) onto his. No
difference. Next, I swapped voltage regulators. The only difference w/
mine is that his alternator light doesn't glow. However, the battery still
only shows 12-12.5 volts when running. I also tested (many times)
continuity in all the wires from the alternator to the voltage reg and even
jiggled the wiring harness around. All the wires test out good (ie no
breaks or shorts). I cleaned all the connections (on the alternator,
starter solenoid, and voltage reg. connector). Oh yeah. His truck
doesn't have a fusible link
in the big ('BAT') cable which runs from the alternator to the starter
soleniod. This checks fine for continuity anyway. Finally, I cleaned all
the ground connections on the truck, and even added a ground strap from the
engine to the frame. Nuthin.'

At this point I don't know what the problem is. According to my wiring
diagram, there's a green wire w/ red stripe (the "I" wire, methinks) which
runs from the voltage reg to the alternator light. Besides that, there's
supposed
to be a 15 Ohm resistor wired parellel w/ the idiot light, right? As I see,
these are the only two things under the dash which could make the alternator
not charge, right? But I don't understand how they could impede charging
(I figure the voltage reg 'knows' when it's getting too much or too little
voltage, and it energizes the green wire w/ red stripe, thus making the
idiot
light glow). I tested the light/15 Ohm resistor according to the Chiltons,
and they tested fine. Is the ignition switch somehow involved? Simply
put, what could be wrong? I'm going to go home tonight and try mounting the
voltage reg w/ one bolt, a la Muel's experience. I hope someone can
help...
Ohio Bill

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 15:30:17 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Info for the new guy

>>>Hello guys I am nearly new to the list . I am in the process of doing
a frame off on a 1971 F250 4x4
with a 360ci 4 gear bought new by my grandpa . I have been reading the list


Welcome to the list! Stu is the guy to talk to about a frame off resto
on this vintage of a truck. I hope to be able to do that to Fordzilla some
day. For now this truck is my daily driver and its been very reliable. I
am planning a hunting trip with 3 buddies next weekend and it looks like my
truck is the only one that can go. One T*yota with a blown tranny, a 91
f-150 in lots of little pieces at the bodyshop and a '99 G*C that isnt
allowed off of the pavement..

I pity the poor sucker who has to ride in the back, its 85 miles of
backroads and bush trails to the hunt camp :-)

Don Jones
1970 F-250 4X4 ~Fordzilla~

______________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 18:30:54 -0400
From: "Tony"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rotor and TDC

If the # 1 piston is at top dead center, and if the valves are closed on the
# 1 cylinder then you must place the rotor pointing perfectly at the # 1
cylinder on the distributor cap. If the rotor is close you can always turn
the timing a little to line it up. As long as the vacum advance does not
interfere with the water neck. I always turn the crank the extra amount of
my initial advance setting before lining up the rotor. Hope this helps. If
you need more help E-mail me personally.
Anthony D. Daniels

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of SHill48337 aol.com
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 1999 2:56 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rotor and TDC

In a message dated 9/11/1999 4:49:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
garrya bellsouth.net writes:


to know now is, does the Rotor have to line up under the dist cap with
the #1 plug location on the cap. >>
Hope you got the answer, this may be a little late. If #1 is at TDC and the
timing mark is at 0 and both intake and exhaust valves are shut then the
distributor rotor must be close to lining up with the distributor cap #1
plug. The key is knowing whether or not the your were on the compression
stroke. If not the rotor should be pointing at the post 180 degrees from #1
plug. I generally pull #1 plug and rotate the engine be hand and when I
hear
air coming out of the plug hole I then stop on the timing mark at 0. Line
everything up and I it starts right up.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 20:46:17 EDT
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor

Hey all
i was wanting to know in town at the fire department they have a 79 ford i
think its a 700 with a 429 4v could some one shed some light on the specs
this truck may have and also when you are pumping water and you shut it off
it "diesels" for a little while any clue as to why? thanks
Travis
"ol Blue"
66 F-250 4spd 352
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 17:47:07 -0700
From: "Dan & Cheryl Ledford"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 70 wiring diagram

Anybody know a source for 1970 f100 wiring diagram? Autokrafters used to,
but don't
anymore. My horn doesn't work and I need to track it down.

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 21:07:17 -0400
From: Huw Powell
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Still not charging

> First, when the truck's running, it only has 12-12.5 volts at the battery
> (using my trusty voltage meter) and the alternator light glows red. When
> you put the lights on, voltage drops to about 11.5 volts. We pulled and
> tested the alternator (at a parts store. They said it was fine). I even
> swapped the alternator from my truck (which I know is good) onto his. No
> difference. Next, I swapped voltage regulators. The only difference w/
> mine is that his alternator light doesn't glow. However, the battery still
> only shows 12-12.5 volts when running. I also tested (many times)
> continuity in all the wires from the alternator to the voltage reg and even
> jiggled the wiring harness around. All the wires test out good (ie no
> breaks or shorts). I cleaned all the connections (on the alternator,
> starter solenoid, and voltage reg. connector). Oh yeah. His truck
> doesn't have a fusible link
> in the big ('BAT') cable which runs from the alternator to the starter
> soleniod. This checks fine for continuity anyway. Finally, I cleaned all
> the ground connections on the truck, and even added a ground strap from the
> engine to the frame. Nuthin.'

I would start by trying to find an alternator output. when running,
there should be an input to the voltage reg telling it how much current
(voltage...) to use on the alternator field in order to generate the
output voltage, which must be 13-15 volts (the low end is from dealing
with Bosch systems for too long... my F250 seems to make 17 volts!).
Then that alt output must get to the battery somehow.

So take a long look at the vreg inputs and outputs, see if a "run"
signal is getting to it, if it is turning on the alt and charging the
field wiring, and where the alt output (if any) is going.

You could always go through all the grounds again too I suppose, making
sure that every device is able to communicate with every other device.
But it sounds as though you have done that already...

- --
Huw Powell

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/

82 Audi Coupe; 84 4kq; 85 Coupe GT; 73 F250
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 18:23:00 -0700
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Still not charging

Sorry but I snipped all the post

Take the handy dandy voltage tester and see if you have 12v to the field post on
the alternator with the key in the run position and while the engine is
running. It sounds to me that the field wire might not be hooked up correctly.

$.02

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4
43 GPW


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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 21:28:55 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor

Id be interested to, as I saw a mid 80's F-700 that had 429-4v on the grill.
Thought it was a lil odd. Any info is appreciated.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 21:32:03 EDT
From: Sandoz2545 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - T5 installation, etc...

I spent a couple hours today removing and installing my 3 speed in a 77 F100
2wd with a 300. And I'm really not sure why I put it back in. I would
really like to have a T5, but I'm not sure if it will bolt up. The picture
of one in the October Mustangs and Fords looks like it might possibly, but
maybe I've been inhaling too much Bondo dust. It looks like it may be a
little longer and have a different bolt pattern. M&F mentioned something
about a clutch linkage conversion too, but I'm not sure if that's applicable.
(probably is)

I know what you're thinking, "Eric, you don't want that, it wouldn't take the
stress of towing". And my retort; I've removed my trailer hitch and
installed a roll pan, so unless somebody hooks up a tow rope to my frame,
I'll be pulling nothing. I want crisper shifts and more gears to row through
on the street and on the highway, and I don't need the granny of a T18. I
know the 4sp Overdrive was an option for a while, and I would mind having
one, but a T5 is my first choice.

Also, on the subject of drivelines, what's with this shaking and vibration
when I'm going from a dead stop to first. I've got a Dana 60 with 4.1 and an
LSD (not a positraction like the guy at the parts store likes to say, Ch*vy's
satanic brainwashing strikes again). My mechanic friend sez it's probably my
4.10 ratio. And then he sez for me to get a lower ratio, like the 3.54. I
wonder if'n it might be the LSD that's making it shake. Whenever I rev it
and drop the clutch to do a burnout I never get the shudder. Plus I never
get it any other time when I engage the clutch (as in an upshift or
downshift). I'm planning on swapping to a 3.54 anyway (for the mileage),
Running 25.7" tall tires doesnt do much for the highway mileage. So If you
guys cant figure it out and I cant figure it out, I guess I will just can the
whole driveline. Yeah right!

Take care you guys (and gals);
E.P.
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 21:30:40 -0400
From: "Tony"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 70 wiring diagram

I have a 70F100. It has a pretty simple horn circuit. What do you need to
know about it?
Anthony D. Daniels

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of Dan & Cheryl Ledford
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 1999 8:47 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 70 wiring diagram

Anybody know a source for 1970 f100 wiring diagram? Autokrafters used to,
but don't
anymore. My horn doesn't work and I need to track it down.

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 22:49:34 EDT
From: Clemstang1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 427 motor for sale

While everyone is on the 427 motor is there anyone out there that would like
to purchase one? Have the 427 four bolt main block, medium rise intake, well
it's complete from the carbs, M/T valve covers to the oil pan. anyone serious
let me know?

Thanks Jeff
73 F-150 (pro-street) 460
79 F-150 Lariat 460
88 Mustang (disabled)302
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 20:08:15 -0700
From: "Christeen Bradley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: - Radios

Any radio will fit if it has the two knobs on either side of the tuner face
ie: O ==== O The knob posts are adjustable and you add the face plate to
hide any open areas that the radio don't fill. I have a el cheapo in my 66
after somebody needed my nice one more than I did. Hope this helps.

Scott
1966 F-100 Shortbox 351C

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 23:14:23 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 427 Engine for Truck

you would be surprised to know what that engine is worth. yes it would be
neat to have, but 4500.00 would also be neat to have, unless you are wanting
to make some serious power i'd sell it.
the auto shop at the local technical school here had a 429 scj engine, but
i couldn't get my hands on it. the shop teacher found out what it was when i
started asking about it.

jeff grant
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 20:11:45 -0700
From: "Christeen Bradley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New Product

Hey Guys, I heard that Ch*vy is coming out with a new heated tailgate. Says
its to keep your hands from freezing in the winter while pushing. Sorry for
the lack of FTE content but I found it humorous.

Scott
1966 F-100 Shortbox 351C

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 20:21:10 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Electrically Fixed! I hope!!!!!

Congrats! What an obscure problem. Those are the ones that really boost
your confidence if you tag them or kill it if you don't try something weird
to fix it.

What year is your truck. If it is a 73-79 I have the fix for the ammeter.
Don't kill youself trying to swap in one that will work. It probably won't.
If it is 73-79 you have a new meter anyway cause the one you have has never
been used!!! I've been saying I will do a tech article and I guess it's
time. Let me look in my old files tomorrow and see what I can put together.

Tom H.

> ----------
> From: Chris Samuel[SMTP:fourmuelz email.msn.com]
> Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 11, 1999 1:18 PM
> To: A 61-79 FORD TRUCKS
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Electrically Fixed! I hope!!!!!
>
> Well after a week and much gnashing of teeth I think I have it fixed!
> As it turns out it was the regulator.
> When it was bolted to the fender it would evidently mechanically bind the
> internal solenoid; but if I took it off and smacked it with a wrench it
> would work again...
> until I installed it! I replaced it with my known good one and I'll be
> darned if it didn't do exactly the same thing!
> I then only tightened one of the mounting screws and it worked!
> So I put 2 washers under the lose corner and PRESTO!
> So in the end the wiring was correct, and the Voltage Reg. was the
> problem!
> Now all I have to figure out is how to get the Amp Gauge to work!
> Another day. I have to move the Alternator first as they used the low
> mount
> out of a car and the bracket rests too close the front cross member.
>
> I'm going to go drive my truck now.
> See ya!
> Muel
>
>
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>
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 22:21:14 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 427 motor for sale

Clemstang1 aol.com wrote:
>
> While everyone is on the 427 motor is there anyone out there that would like
> to purchase one? Have the 427 four bolt main block, medium rise intake, well
> it's complete from the carbs, M/T valve covers to the oil pan. anyone serious
> let me know?
>
> Thanks Jeff


If only my wallet would let me....
Jason
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 00:18:54 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Specs on a 429 Truck motor

In a message dated 9/12/1999 5:48:58 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
TWL1911 aol.com writes:


think its a 700 with a 429 4v could some one shed some light on the specs
this truck may have and also when you are pumping water and you shut it off
it "diesels" for a little while any clue as to why? thanks >>

I ask a similar question a few months ago, got some good info and since found
a little more. The engine configuration is basically the same as the 429
used in the cars around 1970 to 72. The compression ratio is 8:1, the crank
has a larger diameter and longer snout, the distributor and cam have a bigger
gear, the distributor contains a governor, and the oil pan is larger. I also
found that Ford was still using these engines in the latter 80's, do not know
when they quit, or even if they did. As for the dieseling or run-on after
pumping is not surprising. Pumping works the engine very hard leaving the
combustion chambers hot enough to ignite the fuel for a little bit. Keep in
mind all of the cooling air through the radiator must be pulled in by the fan
with no help from vehicle speed.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 23:37:14 -0500
From: "Ted Stringfellow"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 70 wiring diagram

The wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual for my 78 were pretty fair. I
imagine they make them for 70s.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dan & Cheryl Ledford
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, September 12, 1999 7:52 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 70 wiring diagram


> Anybody know a source for 1970 f100 wiring diagram? Autokrafters used
to,
>but don't
>anymore. My horn doesn't work and I need to track it down.
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 22:19:05 -0700
From: "Doug Neely"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wooden spacers :Caution

Just a word of caution on using wooden spacers. I made one for
my 351C once (due to a rotted EGR plate) as a temporary measure
until got a replacement part. When I tightened the carb down one
....

---

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