From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #321
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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, September 8 1999 Volume 03 : Number 321



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Tires and Transmission
RE: FTE 61-79 - Overdrive Questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems
FTE 61-79 - Mighty Iron Beast
FTE 61-79 - Flareside
FTE 61-79 - Off Topic, HELP! Excel function?
FTE 61-79 - more tail lights
RE: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems
FTE 61-79 - overdrive questions
FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems
RE: FTE 61-79 - tranny questions
RE: FTE 61-79 - 1963 F-250
RE: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems
RE: FTE 61-79 - overdrive questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems
FTE 61-79 - Power Assist ram seal
FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke
Re: FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke
FTE 61-79 - T-18
FTE 61-79 - RE: 61-79 Looking for T-18
RE: FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 3spd. Manual Transmission (Painted ornot?)
Re: FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke
RE: FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke
FTE 61-79 - 77 E150 weird instrument panel/headers and dual exhaust
FTE 61-79 - I'm back
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: 61-79 Looking for T-18
Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Brake Bleeding - Sorry for the late reply
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 3spd. Manual Transmission (Painted ornot?)
FTE 61-79 - question about 1966 Ford F100 pickup
Re: FTE 61-79 - question about 1966 Ford F100 pickup
RE: FTE 61-79 - question about 1966 Ford F100 pickup
FTE 61-79 - Re: Mity-Vac - An update
Re: FTE 61-79 - I need Fenders and a Tailgate
RE: FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes
RE: FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems
RE: FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes
RE: FTE 61-79 - Off Topic, HELP! Excel function?
RE: FTE 61-79 - overdrive questions
FTE 61-79 - Re: 400 Cams

=======================================================================

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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 06:48:22 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Tires and Transmission

Depending on what you want there are still turbo mufflers out there for
about $20 and they work very well. That's all I use on my trucks. If you
have the tubes custom made you can fit virtually any kind of turbo in there.
I put long ones in my 2wd PU and they are very quiet with the 460. The
short ones I had on it before were somewhat noisier.

BTW, everyone knows you only use glass packs after filling them with oil and
marinating the glass for a few days, then drain it out and install them.
Don't start the engine with the exhaust pointing at anything you need to
keep clean :-) CHERRY BOMBS forever :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Summit Racing Equipment sells a welded steel muffler
> that looks just like a
> Flowmaster but is a little cheaper. My advice is you don't
> want a glasspack
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 06:51:29 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Overdrive Questions

SVO sells them for the E4OD which uses the same gear set size and spec as
the C-6. They sell it with a kit to make it work in the C-6 for around $400
last I heard.

Most tranny rebuild shops will be able to get it for you as well and perhaps
even some auto parts stores although I haven't looked into this avenue yet.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Where do you get wide ratio gear set for a C-6? TIA
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 06:59:25 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems

The small hole in the block below the heater hose is for the dipstick. I
believe it was only used in 2wd applications but cant swear to that. My 79
Bronco went into the Dr Side pan. The replacement motor came from a 78
supercab 2wd and use that location. If not needed, just fill it with a 1/2"
steel plug. Thats what was done on my original Bronco block.

> 1st Q. What is suppose to go in the small hole on thru right front of the
> motor just below the heater return hose?


I Cant help ya here. Ive got a weiland/holley setup myself

> 2nd Q. Has anyone been able to get the factory cruise control to work with
> Edlebrock 1400 Carb? I think that I just need to get a different support
> bracket.


Hard to say on this one. I can see where it would work using 2 separate
vacuume sources and where it'd make a neater installation. If you've any smog
checks though it might cause a problem. I just dont have a handle on how all
the equipment interrelates
Other than that though, Id do it!

> 3rd Q. This one needs some explaining. I have the Edlebrock 1400 Carb with
> the 4v adapter plate. There is a hole in the front manifold plate(manifold
> pressure??) and one in the back of the carb. Which one or should I use
> both? This truck has power brakes which came off of the manifold 'T' from
> the back of the intake manifold on the old motor. I was think using the one
> in the back for the power brakes and the front on for the other manifold
> pressure. Am I totally off base or what?
>
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 06:29:32 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mighty Iron Beast

> I'm not an FE guy but I remember hearing that the stock "manifolds" are
> really the problem, not the heads? This is one reason all the magazine
> articles use headers for power discussions.
>
> It's obvious that they had no real breathing problems because no FE I've
> heard of had any trouble hitting some decent revs which is a good sign it's
> breathing pretty well :-) Now the stock 460 OTOH..........

I have been telling people this for years. A stock 390 (especially the
early ones) head is one of the best flowing junkyard heads anyone made.
You have to get into some hi-po stuff to match them. The key to that is
the good exhaust ports, and the ability to recontour the intake path by
what kind of manifold you put on it. I have always been impressed by
how hard they pull especially with a fair sized cam that gets them up in
the 6000-6500 range.

What has gotten a burr under my saddle is reading magazine article after
article telling things that have very little base in truth. They are
usually GM guys writing them, and they've never put one together. They
are just pushing some new aftermarket part someone has come up with to
"prop up" the "weaknesses" of this design. Now come on guys repeat
after me... I WILL FOREVER DEFEND THE HONOR OF THE MIGHTY IRON BEAST...I
WILL FOREVER DEFEND...
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 07:44:01 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Flareside

Tony writes: >>Isn't it "FLARE-side"... ;-)

Probably.... So we can't spell...

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 08:31:06 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Off Topic, HELP! Excel function?

Does anyone know how to use a function to insert data into cells in an Excel
spreadsheet? My function works and I can use it in Access to put data
anywhere I want but in excel there doesn't seem to be any way to cause
calculated data in a function to be inserted into a cell. The syntax in the
help screens does not work and excel apparently ignores any error trapping
efforts by ignoring all errors so.......??

Syntax I tried and the only one I could find was:

Application.Worksheets("sheet1").Range("E40").value = newdata

The help on this says .value is read only but the example shows the above
syntax for entering data into cell e40 so....???

Sorry about the off topic but I'm desperate! :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 07:48:47 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - more tail lights

>>Did you know you can get those sockets from your local parts store ?

Yep, but I don't have any trouble finding good ones in the bone yard. I paid
two bucks for a fist full of wires and sockets.

>> I always thought those turn signals were pretty dim

I was going to add the bulb to the parking light circuit, but I may change
my mind and go with the turn signals. Shoot, I might do both.

>course this is IA so no one believes you if you signal anyway (too many trucks
with them stuck on :)

Down here they disconnect the turn signals when they roll the new cars off
the transport at the dealer, or so it seems. The drivers in this burg are
the most untrustworthy people on the planet. Careful, I almost got on the
soapbox........

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 08:19:46 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems

> 3rd Q. This one needs some explaining. I have the Edlebrock
> 1400 Carb with
> the 4v adapter plate. There is a hole in the front manifold
> plate(manifold
> pressure??) and one in the back of the carb. Which one or should I use
> both? This truck has power brakes which came off of the
> manifold 'T' from
> the back of the intake manifold on the old motor. I was think
> using the one
> in the back for the power brakes and the front on for the other manifold
> pressure. Am I totally off base or what?
>
hhhmmm....I'll take "or what" for $.02 ... :)

Anyway however you want to plumb up your vacuum is up to you, just remember
that you will need at least the following hooked up :

power brakes (good to have manifold vacuum, also good to have a nice big
port for them)
vacuum advance (ported or manifold, depends on what you like and how the
motor is set up)
PCV should also have a vacuum port somewhere ...
and if you have an auto the modulator may need one or two ports ...

I think that covers the basics anyway, if you have A/C there'll be another
for controlling that, and possibly one or two more depending on your
emissions requirements ...

Anyway the larger ports I usually reserve for P/B and PCV, this way I don't
have to mess with different sized hoses or anything from one to the next ...
usually the PCV goes to the plate at the base of the carb, or the back of
the carb if there's one on that ...

As long as everything that needs it is getting it, then you should be fine
...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 08:09:42 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - overdrive questions

>>Don't know precisely but they give you 11% in first and 5% in second I
understand. All I can really say here is that I've used both and with the
460 and 2.75 gears that truck acts like it has 4.11 gears when you step on
it in low gear! That same engine used to stall with the other tranny with
4.11 gears so my hiney says it's mucho betta. Course the engine runs a tad
betta too so it's hard to say how much was what but it has plenty of bottom
end with this tranny and tall rear gears which give you the same effect as
OD.

Using an AOD is like going bacwards when you have a heavy truck with large
engine in it IMNSHO :-)

Well, I'm a little confused here. Overdrive reduces engine rpm at highway
speeds, but has absolutely no effect at start up or any speed under about 40
mph, depending on whether you are going uphill or downhill. Bigger tires
also reduce engine speed, but at all ranges because the tires are a constant
size (duh). The wide ratio C6 has a lower first gear than prior C6s to
compensate for the lower ratio rearends installed in an effort to increase
gas mileage. Anyone ever drive a Buick twin turbine DynaFlow? They don't
shift. Performance off the line in Drive stinks. Shift into Low and the
picture changes to a tire squalling monster. My contention is that a wide
ratio C6 is the transmission of choice, but because of better start the
truck rolling performance. The 1:1 final ratio will not produce any benefit
over any other automatic.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M wide ratio C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 08:22:36 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems

..Are you talking about the hole that goes through the block into the oil
pan (if one's installed)? Just below the right bank of cylinders? If so then
it's where the dipstick tube goes on a car block. Ask Don Berry, he can
verify that, right Don?

Bill,

Run this by me again. Henry's dipstick is in front of the right bank. Where
is it supposed to be on an M-block truck engine? I know that he had a short
block installed by the dealer when he had under 8000 miles. ????

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 08:21:44 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - tranny questions

> i was wondering is there any way to find a tranny that mates to
> the FE block
> that has more than 4 gears and it would be nice to find one out
> of a truck(a
> heavy duty truck) is that possable? or are they pretty much mated behind
> 370/429/460 trucks? and if there is one that will have hte same
> bell housing
> any info is greatly apreciated


Your only hope is to find something from a heavy duty truck, the 391's and
all, I think they used the same bellhousing pattern, but I can't swear to
that ...


Has anyone checked the lakewood that bolts up to the back of the FE's ?
What tranny is that drilled for ? hmmmm...and I wonder if you could get
it drilled for a late model OD tranny .... hehehehehe ...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 08:23:58 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 1963 F-250

> I have a 1963 F-250 that has a 223/4speed and I am wondering how
> difficult it is to put a 1979 302/auto, from a van into it. I don't know
> if the 1963 model came with a V-8 option or not and if it did, will the
> 1979 motor fit into the mounts?

I can't tell you if it did or not, but if it did, likely it was the Y-block
as I think the FE was a year or so off yet ... and I'm almost positive the
Windsor (260/289/302/351) family hadn't seen a truck yet that year ... so I
would think your best bet would be to see if you can make the ones off the
79 work in the 63 ... I'm sure there's a ton of problems with that, but it
seems to me that will be your best bet ... or finding a later truck with a
similar motor that may use similar mounts to what you need ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 08:33:38 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems

> ..Are you talking about the hole that goes through the block
> into the oil
> pan (if one's installed)? Just below the right bank of
> cylinders? If so then
> it's where the dipstick tube goes on a car block. Ask Don Berry, he can
> verify that, right Don?
>
> Bill,
>
> Run this by me again. Henry's dipstick is in front of the right
> bank. Where
> is it supposed to be on an M-block truck engine?

Well I'm not THE Bill you were looking for, but I'm A Bill, so I'll take a
stab at it ... I'd bet the 2wd's used a front sump pan just like the cars
do, and the 4x4's use a rear sump so they use the dipstick through the pan
trick and just plug the hole ... that's how the FE's do it, I wouldn't be
surprised to find out that all the motors worked that way ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 08:37:40 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - overdrive questions

> gas mileage. Anyone ever drive a Buick twin turbine DynaFlow?

Yup ...

> They don't
> shift.

Nope, kinda unnerving at first :)

> Performance off the line in Drive stinks.

Hahahaha ... you could say that ...


> Shift into Low and the
> picture changes to a tire squalling monster.

I don't know that I'd go that far ... supposedly (never tried it, but Dad
claims he did) you can get them to peel out in low, then wrap them way up
and chirp as they go into drive, but I have trouble believing that straight
8 has that umph in it :) (we have a '50 4dr sedan at home)


> My contention is that a wide
> ratio C6 is the transmission of choice, but because of better start the
> truck rolling performance. The 1:1 final ratio will not produce
> any benefit
> over any other automatic.
>


I think what someone was saying was to put bigger tires in with the wide
ratio, that way you get similar 1 and 2 gears (equivalently) and then your
third will be the equivalent of an OD, although it'll likely only be about
.94 or .9 :1 instead of the 1:1 ... of course this also makes your speedo
off, but then who has an accurate one ? (dont answer that, it was
rhetorical)


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 07:16:59 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems

Maybe it's a 2wd/4wd thing instead of a car/truck thing but on the 400 that
came stock in my '79 4wd truck the dipstick goes into the left side of the
oil pan. On the '76 351M block I'm building into a 400 the dipstick went
into the same place as on Henry, right front of the engine. It also had a
pan that had provisions for a dipstick which is a 4wd pan.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: John LaGrone
To: -FordTruckDigest
Date: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 6:22 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems


>..Are you talking about the hole that goes through the block into the oil
>pan (if one's installed)? Just below the right bank of cylinders? If so
then
>it's where the dipstick tube goes on a car block. Ask Don Berry, he can
>verify that, right Don?
>
>Bill,
>
>Run this by me again. Henry's dipstick is in front of the right bank. Where
>is it supposed to be on an M-block truck engine? I know that he had a short
>block installed by the dealer when he had under 8000 miles. ????
>
>-- John
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com
>1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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>


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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 10:17:18 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power Assist ram seal

Hey Kirk,

If I remember right, I thought you could get just the parts (or have them
rebuild it) at AutoKrafters: 800 228-7346.

Good Luck!

CJ
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 10:42:56 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke

Hey all

I was just about to get rid of this extra 351M I had. I pulled the oil
pan for somone that wanted it and decided for kicks to try and measure
the stroke from the lower end of motor. I rotated crank until piston
skirt was as low as it would go. I measured 1-1/8 inches that the skirt
went below the cyl wall. I then rotated that piston to TDC and measured
bottom of cyl wall to bottom of skirt. I got almost 3 inches. If it was
a 351M, I should have gotten more like a little less than 2.5, right??
The guy I bought it from said it was a 400 and I thought I had crudely
measured the stroke through a spark plug hole when I bought it (compared
that to another spark plug hole measurement on a known 351M). So what am
I missing or is it really a 400? Where are the numbers on the crank to
tell me what crank it is?

OX
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 07:59:15 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke

Casting #s should be on the side of the first throw. Legend has it that the
400 crank should have a 5, 5M, 5MA or 5MAB. 351M crank should be 1K. I have
a 400 crank and a 351 crank with no casting #s on them so it's not always
easy to tell. The stroke on the 351 is 3.5 in. the 400 is 4.0 in. I do know
that 351 pistons have the # 351 cast into them next to the wrist pin.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: James Oxley
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 7:45 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke


>Hey all
>
> I was just about to get rid of this extra 351M I had. I pulled the oil
>pan for somone that wanted it and decided for kicks to try and measure
>the stroke from the lower end of motor. I rotated crank until piston
>skirt was as low as it would go. I measured 1-1/8 inches that the skirt
>went below the cyl wall. I then rotated that piston to TDC and measured
>bottom of cyl wall to bottom of skirt. I got almost 3 inches. If it was
>a 351M, I should have gotten more like a little less than 2.5, right??
>The guy I bought it from said it was a 400 and I thought I had crudely
>measured the stroke through a spark plug hole when I bought it (compared
>that to another spark plug hole measurement on a known 351M). So what am
>I missing or is it really a 400? Where are the numbers on the crank to
>tell me what crank it is?



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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 09:28:05 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: FTE 61-79 - T-18

Looking for a T-18 tranny from a 2wd Ford truck. What years and models to
look for? Thanks.
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 11:43:56 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 61-79 Looking for T-18

Need year(s) and which Ford truck models for a T-18 tranny from a 2wd
vehicle.
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 10:07:26 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke

> I measured 1-1/8 inches that the skirt
> went below the cyl wall. I then rotated that piston to TDC and measured
> bottom of cyl wall to bottom of skirt. I got almost 3 inches. If it was
> a 351M, I should have gotten more like a little less than 2.5, right??

Yup, well 3.5 total, so 2.5 instead of the 3 you got ...


> The guy I bought it from said it was a 400 and I thought I had crudely
> measured the stroke through a spark plug hole when I bought it (compared
> that to another spark plug hole measurement on a known 351M). So what am
> I missing or is it really a 400? Where are the numbers on the crank to
> tell me what crank it is?
>

Sounds like a 400 to me ... I'm guessing the heads are still on is why you
are checking everything from the bottom ?

I think the numbers will be on the counterweights ... though I can't
remember ever finding ANY on my 390 before the crank was cleaned and ground,
then afterwards seems like a couple showed up, but still none that
identified it positively as a 390, though rough measurements of the stroke
confirmed it was ...

I don't think you could really mis measure by 1/2" ... I mean you could, but
if you're careful its not likely ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 10:37:24 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 3spd. Manual Transmission (Painted ornot?)

Stock man

Have order some for my son's 83 stang we're rebuilding.
A co worker has used it and swears (sp) by it. He's used the Manifolds factory
gray high temp coating and the chassis black.

Larry


At 11:19 AM 9/7/99 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 9/7/99 10:27:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>Larry.Schmiedekamp angelo.edu writes:
>
>>
>> There are some paints on the market that leave it unpainted looking but
put
>> a protected coating on to keep from rusting.
>>
>Thanks for your input Larry. Have you personally tried any of these
>products? What is the "List" concensus on Eastwood's products?
>
>
>Stock Man
>1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
>1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
>1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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>
>

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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 08:54:50 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke

Yeah if you got a measurement of 2 7/8 then it sounds like a 400.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: James Oxley
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 7:45 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke


>Hey all
>
> I was just about to get rid of this extra 351M I had. I pulled the oil
>pan for somone that wanted it and decided for kicks to try and measure
>the stroke from the lower end of motor. I rotated crank until piston
>skirt was as low as it would go. I measured 1-1/8 inches that the skirt
>went below the cyl wall. I then rotated that piston to TDC and measured
>bottom of cyl wall to bottom of skirt. I got almost 3 inches. If it was
>a 351M, I should have gotten more like a little less than 2.5, right??



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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 12:12:39 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke

Ok, finally got ya, 1.125 + 3 = 4 (roughly) as opposed to 3.5. I was
reading it wrong :-) Got to be a 400 OX :-) I was subtracting at first
because I was measuring from the same point in the same direction in my
head......Skirt goes past in both directions...senility rearing it's ugly
head again :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> the stroke from the lower end of motor. I rotated crank until piston
> skirt was as low as it would go. I measured 1-1/8 inches that
> the skirt
> went below the cyl wall. I then rotated that piston to TDC
> and measured
> bottom of cyl wall to bottom of skirt. I got almost 3 inches.
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 09:36:32 -0700
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 77 E150 weird instrument panel/headers and dual exhaust

Hello all!

Our 77 E150 (recently revived from 4+ yrs of inactivity) is doing pretty
well, but has an odd problem I need some advice on.
When the headlights are off, the gauges all appear (except the gas gauge,
float is sunk I think) to work correctly.

But when I turn the headlights or parking light switch on...
Temp gauge pegs HOT.
Oil pressure gauge reads abnormally high, but does not peg.
Ammeter appears to be working normally.
Instrument panel lights flicker, but none of the other dash or headlights
do.
When I click the high beams on, instrument panel lights go out and both turn
signal indicators glow.

Headlight switch is new. Bad ground on instrument panel? I recall a
previous post mentioning a instrument panel voltage regulator, possibly the
problem here?

Another unrelated question:
I'm going to need to replace the exhaust soon. I can buy pre-made pipe
(single exhaust) front to back for about $135. The truck has no converters
(gotta love that GVW!). Does anyone still make headers for this truck and
would it be smog legal in CA, since I have no converters? If headers are a
no-no, what about running dual exhaust all the way back off the stock
manifolds? Is that legal? Any advice?

TIA!
Rich


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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 10:59:53 -0600
From: William Whited
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I'm back

To all, Thnk god I'm back on the list. I transferred of the lovely
island of Cuba, back to the states. Spend several days at "Home" VA,
then drove from there to here, new home El Paso TX. The ole girl made
it like a champ. My 74 F100 with really tired 390 made it with no
problems. Drove a 2,700 miles and averaged 12 mpg. I was driving on
the Interstate at 70 plus most of the time, everytime I had to stop for
gas put in a quart of oil and she ran great. Also from Ft Worth to El
Paso I flat towed my newest baby the 77 with a 460, which I purchased
from Adam Hicks. Thanks again for the great deal Adam. It is so great
to be back on the list.

William A. Whited
74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390
77 F150 Custom 460

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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 10:03:21 -0700
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: 61-79 Looking for T-18

Dave Jacobs wrote:

> Need year(s) and which Ford truck models for a T-18 tranny from a 2wd
> vehicle.

64-8? Not sure which year Ford stopped using the t-18. Happy crawling



- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4
43 GPW


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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 13:36:34 EDT
From: SevnD2 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems

The small hole you mentioned is for the dipstick tube . That is if you are
sure about the size ( small ) and not larger ( 1/2 - 5/8 ) with threads . If
this hole is smooth then I would say it is for a dipstick tube . If it is
larger and is threaded then it is for a temperaure sending unit . Also it
will be pointing toward the front of the engine and not toward the top right
side if it is for a sending unit .
Hope this helps !
Rollie .
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 13:37:11 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - M block stuff/400 stroke

Bill Beyer wrote:
>
> Casting #s should be on the side of the first throw. Legend has it that the
> 400 crank should have a 5, 5M, 5MA or 5MAB.

OK, I checked at lunch and it's says 5MAB, so I guess it is a 400. Gees,
another motor I have to keep now :-). Maybe I'll just pull the crank
rods and pistons out of it.

Thanks for everyone's help.

OX
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 11:40:23 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Brake Bleeding - Sorry for the late reply

BTW, forgot to mention the MC's on both my trucks (78's) are absolutely
level at rest with more or less stock suspension balance which makes
bleeding them on the truck a breeze :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> shows them tilting the car on the lift to get the MC level on
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 14:34:52 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 3spd. Manual Transmission (Painted ornot?)

In a message dated 9/8/99 11:40:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Larry.Schmiedekamp angelo.edu writes:

> Have order some for my son's 83 stang we're rebuilding.
> A co worker has used it and swears (sp) by it. He's used the Manifolds
> factory
> gray high temp coating and the chassis black.


Thanks Larry. I couldn't resist the hype so I ordered some too. Their
product information promises to do everything but wax the truck. I'll keep
everyone posted.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 14:39:18 -0400
From: "Tim Venable"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - question about 1966 Ford F100 pickup

Hello all. I am a new list subscriber. I have a question regarding my
'66 Ford F100 truck, and I'm hoping that someone can shed some
light.

My question is about horsepower/torque and towing capacity. This
truck has a 300-cu.-in., straight 6 engine. It seems to have plenty
of power, and I've pulled a pretty heavy U-Haul trailer before that
was loaded with heavy things like a piano, etc.

I want to buy a 14-ft. or 16-ft. farm/utility trailer that I can use to
haul a standard-sized farm tractor, or maybe a standard-sized car.
I would bet this truck's power is roughly equal to that of smaller V-
8s and would be OK, marginally perhaps, to pull a load like the one
I describe.

Can anyone out there shed some light on whether this seems
reasonable? Could a truck like mine pull a trailer with that kind of
load? I can't seem to find any kind of towing capacity data,
horsepower, etc. for the truck on the Internet.

Thanks in advance.

Tim Venable
tim.venable conway.com


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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 14:55:29 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - question about 1966 Ford F100 pickup

In a message dated 9/8/99 2:47:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tim.venable conway.com writes:

>
> Can anyone out there shed some light on whether this seems
> reasonable? Could a truck like mine pull a trailer with that kind of
> load? I can't seem to find any kind of towing capacity data,
> horsepower, etc. for the truck on the Internet.

Towing capacity is a function of engine horsepower, gearing and your GVWR.
Without knowing more about your truck's configuration it would be hard to
comment any further. The 1966 specs for Ford's 300 cid. I6 are listed as
follows:
Brake Horsepower: 170 HP 3600 RPM
Gross Torque: 283 Ft.-Lbs. 14-2400 RPM
Taxable Horsepower: 38.40

One word of caution, make sure you are comparing apples to apples when you
check these numbers against current engine specs. due to changes in the
manner that manufacturer's measure and report HP. They did it differently in
the old days.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 11:56:42 -0700
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - question about 1966 Ford F100 pickup

Just my 2 cents (sorry wish), but while the drivetrain is at best marginally
up to the task, the stock brakes need some serious upgrading to safely deal
with that kind of load. Doesn't really matter if you can get it going, but
can you stop it?

Don't even think it until you at least convert to discs, IMHO.
Rich
'77 E150
'67 F100 (inlaws now hopefully mine someday-gathering parts for disc swap as
we speak)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Tim Venable [mailto:tim.venable conway.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 11:39 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - question about 1966 Ford F100 pickup


Hello all. I am a new list subscriber. I have a question regarding my
'66 Ford F100 truck, and I'm hoping that someone can shed some
light.

My question is about horsepower/torque and towing capacity. This
truck has a 300-cu.-in., straight 6 engine. It seems to have plenty
of power, and I've pulled a pretty heavy U-Haul trailer before that
was loaded with heavy things like a piano, etc.

I want to buy a 14-ft. or 16-ft. farm/utility trailer that I can use to
haul a standard-sized farm tractor, or maybe a standard-sized car.
I would bet this truck's power is roughly equal to that of smaller V-
8s and would be OK, marginally perhaps, to pull a load like the one
I describe.

Can anyone out there shed some light on whether this seems
reasonable? Could a truck like mine pull a trailer with that kind of
load? I can't seem to find any kind of towing capacity data,
horsepower, etc. for the truck on the Internet.

Thanks in advance.

Tim Venable
tim.venable conway.com


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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 12:16:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Mity-Vac - An update

mstrawn wrote:
> NEWARD ENTERPRISES
> INCORPATED
> P.O. Box 725
> Cucamonga, Ca. 91729-0725
>
> or
> 9251 Archibald Avenue
> Cucamonga, CA 91730-5207
>
> Telephone 1-800-mityvac(648-9822)
> This info courtesy of the users manual back page.

When I called yesterday, they were closed. The recording gave their
hours as Central Time. Odd for a company in CA. When they said the
company name it sounded like Prison Enterprises. :)

I called the number this morning and the name is PRISM Enterprises.
They do have a good website:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mityvac.com

It lists the kits and accessories. Also, some online distributors.

BTW, Summit no longer carries them. Most other places that do only
have the basic automotive kit, no other accessories, and not the one
with the combination pressure/vacuum gauge which I am somewhat
interested in. This one also comes with an automatic fluid feeder
which adds fluid to your MC while you are bleeding. It is only
about $20 more.

I did talk to a real nice lady at Northern Tool, formerly Northern
Hydraulics. She said she didn't know the little bubbles were normal
and went through 2 quarts of brake fluid before she figured it out.
I told her about putting the grease on the bleeder screw threads.

Thanks to everyone for all the info.

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 12:49:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Daniel DiMartino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I need Fenders and a Tailgate

have you looked at a hemmings motor news?? i just got a good
condition tailgate for my '68 from an advertiser in the parts
section. lots of options there!

===
Daniel DiMartino

1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 15:48:17 -0400
From: "Tony"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes

Try pulling the distributor cap and see if the rotor button is turning. If
it is not, pull the distributor and see if the drive gear on the distributor
is fastened with a roll pin. If it is spinning in place then the oil pump
will never turn.
Anthony D. Daniels

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of Garry Bowling
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 2:23 AM
To: Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes

HELP HELP
Well as most of you know I asked about changing the oil pan and got many
good ideas. I did this task over the weekend and so far it has been a
disaster. First off I definitely found were the leaks were. It seems
when the engine was rebuilt the main seals were not trimmed flush with
the block. The cause the gasket to not fit tight. I pulled the pan off
Saturday. I re installed the oil pump and oil pump drive shaft (or so I
thought) and put the pan back on Sunday. Anyway, 24 hrs later I started
the truck and low and behold I have no oil pressure. Well obviously I
thought I did not get the oil pump drive shaft installed. Sooooo I
pulled the pan again and this time I decided to get a new oil pump since
it only cost $21.99 I thought why not replace it. This time I took the
pick up tube off the old pump and installed it on the new pump. I
poured Oil into both ends of the pump and with my hand turned the drive
shaft to get oil going through it both ways. I then put another new
gasket and RTV on the pan and installed the pump and pan again. Which
this time DID NOT GO AS EASY AS THE FIRST TIME. I was very frustrated by
then. So anyway today I get home from work. Poured Oil in the engine
and started it. Low and behold I again have no oil pressure. I took
the oil fill cap off and looked at the top of the rocker arms and there
is no oil spraying. I am sure that I got the pump on correctly this
time.

What am I doing wrong.....? Is there something I should be doing that I
haven't done? Is there some trick to getting the pump to work? Is there
a way to tell if the pump is turning before bolting the pan back in
place? My current plan is to take off work on Friday and drain the oil
and pull the pan again. This time I am going to take my time to ensure
that the pump works. Any other tricks out there that others have done
would be greatly appreciated. BTW there is not much room to work
between the edge of the pan the block. This is one engine were the oil
pump needs to in the back of the engine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Garry Bowling
garrya bellsouth.net
67 F100 352.

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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 06:35:05 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes

The very first thing you did wrong is put the oil pan back on without
replacing the pickup tube on the oil pump. This is one of the cheapest
insurance programs for your engine you will ever spend money on. If this is
plugged you won't get any oil and if the varnish comes loose inside the tube
you will lock up the pump and trash the engine. 335 series engines are
famous for it.

Next time you take the pan off, flatten out the seal lip on a flat surface,
gently so you don't deform the steel or thin it out but just get the area
where the pan bolts go flat so they will seal. When you tighten the bolts
use moderate pressure, it doesn't take much to seal the pan and if you get
it too tight you deform the seal lip again causing leaks. Use fel pro
gasket cement on the pan side of the gasket, let it set up and either use
nothing or use brown aircraft sealer on the top side when you install the
pan. Use black rtv or some other recommended variety in the corners between
the cork and the front and rear rubber seals where they meet.

After a few weeks go back over the pan bolts and if you really want to do a
good job on it use blue locktite on the pan bolts to keep them from backing
out due to low torque reqirments. The key is to get it all tightened evenly
and without deforming the pan seal surface and then keep it there.

The drive shaft should sit inside the hex in the pump and also fit into the
dizzy with enough engagement to ensure it will never lose it's connection.
You can check this after installing the pump by simply grasping the shaft
and pushing it up and down to see what kind of fit you have. If it's in
there correctly you should be able to move it easily up and down and to be
sure there is enough engagement, measure the shaft before installing it and
then measure the gap between the pump and dizzy shaft to see what the
engagement actually is and also measure the amount of free play to be sure
it doesn't exceed the total engagement so the shaft can not fall out etc...
There are several shafts with differing lengths of the same hex size so it's
possible someone managed to get the wrong one in there. You can also buy
chrome moly round shafts with hex keys on the end pretty reasonably.

ON stock shafts, push the spring retainer all the way up against the block
to prevent the shaft from pulling out when you remove the dizzy :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Garry Bowling [mailto:garrya bellsouth.net]
> Sent: 09/07/1999 2:23 AM
> To: Ford Truck Enthusiasts
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes
>
>
> HELP HELP
> Well as most of you know I asked about changing the oil pan
> and got many
> good ideas. I did this task over the weekend and so far it has been a
> disaster. First off I definitely found were the leaks were. It seems
> when the engine was rebuilt the main seals were not trimmed flush with
> the block. The cause the gasket to not fit tight. I pulled
> the pan off
> Saturday. I re installed the oil pump and oil pump drive
> shaft (or so I
> thought) and put the pan back on Sunday. Anyway, 24 hrs
> later I started
> the truck and low and behold I have no oil pressure. Well obviously I
> thought I did not get the oil pump drive shaft installed. Sooooo I
> pulled the pan again and this time I decided to get a new oil
> pump since
> it only cost $21.99 I thought why not replace it. This time
> I took the
> pick up tube off the old pump and installed it on the new pump. I
> poured Oil into both ends of the pump and with my hand turned
> the drive
> shaft to get oil going through it both ways. I then put another new
> gasket and RTV on the pan and installed the pump and pan again. Which
> this time DID NOT GO AS EASY AS THE FIRST TIME. I was very
> frustrated by
> then. So anyway today I get home from work. Poured Oil in the engine
> and started it. Low and behold I again have no oil pressure. I took
> the oil fill cap off and looked at the top of the rocker arms
> and there
> is no oil spraying. I am sure that I got the pump on correctly this
> time.
>
> What am I doing wrong.....? Is there something I should be
> doing that I
> haven't done? Is there some trick to getting the pump to
> work? Is there
> a way to tell if the pump is turning before bolting the pan back in
> place? My current plan is to take off work on Friday and drain the oil
> and pull the pan again. This time I am going to take my time
> to ensure
> that the pump works. Any other tricks out there that others have done
> would be greatly appreciated. BTW there is not much room to work
> between the edge of the pan the block. This is one engine were the oil
> pump needs to in the back of the engine.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks
>
> Garry Bowling
> garrya bellsouth.net
> 67 F100 352.
>
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>
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 14:49:44 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems

>From: grahams thefuture.net (Smith, Graham)
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems
>
>1st Q. What is suppose to go in the small hole
>on thru right front of the motor just below the
>heater return hose?

Yo Graham:

If it's a threaded hole about 5/8" diameter, it's the engine temp sending unit.
If you're talking about a smaller non-threaded hole a little farther down and to
the side of the front cover, it's the dipstick hole for a car (non-truck)
application.

>2nd Q.

Shane269 seems to know a lot more about E'brock carbs and adapters than I do.

>3rd Q. This one needs some explaining.
>I have the Edlebrock 1400 Carb with
>the 4v adapter plate. There is a hole
>in the front manifold plate(manifold
>pressure??) and one in the back of
>the carb. Which one or should I use
>both? This truck has power brakes
>which came off of the manifold 'T' from
>the back of the intake manifold on the
>old motor. I was think using the one
>in the back for the power brakes and
>the front on for the other manifold
>pressure. Am I totally off base or what?

Are you referring to "holes" in the manifold itself, or vacuum ports on the 4V
adapter?

If you're talking about the manifold itself, the rear opening is the manifold
vacuum source. Power brakes and any other vacuum accessories should use that
port, just like on the stock manifold.

The port on the front of the manifold is connected to the Thermactor crossover
passage, which leads into the Thermactor/EGR ports inside the cylinder head
exhaust ports. The Thermactor crossover is not connected to the intake runners.
This is where you connect the Thermactor AIR pump (smog pump) output, if you're
using one. Otherwise, block this port off w/ a pipe threaded plug. If you
don't block off the Thermactor port w/ either a check valve (as part of an
operational AIR system) or a plug, you'll have a massive (and very noisy)
exhaust leak.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 17:01:55 -0400
From: "Tony"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes

Sorry, I missed the fact that it actually started up. I thought you were
just cranking it. In that case forget about the distributor thing. To save
the motor from repeated engine wear, while your trouble shooting, I would
recommend turning the oil pump shaft with a reversible drill switched on
reverse. As for the cause make sure you cant turn the shaft once it is in
the end of the distributor. If it turns then you may have damage at the end
of the distributor were the shaft goes in.
Anthony D. Daniels

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of Tony
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 3:48 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes

Try pulling the distributor cap and see if the rotor button is turning. If
it is not, pull the distributor and see if the drive gear on the distributor
is fastened with a roll pin. If it is spinning in place then the oil pump
will never turn.
Anthony D. Daniels

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of Garry Bowling
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 2:23 AM
To: Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes

HELP HELP
Well as most of you know I asked about changing the oil pan and got many
good ideas. I did this task over the weekend and so far it has been a
disaster. First off I definitely found were the leaks were. It seems
when the engine was rebuilt the main seals were not trimmed flush with
the block. The cause the gasket to not fit tight. I pulled the pan off
Saturday. I re installed the oil pump and oil pump drive shaft (or so I
thought) and put the pan back on Sunday. Anyway, 24 hrs later I started
the truck and low and behold I have no oil pressure. Well obviously I
thought I did not get the oil pump drive shaft installed. Sooooo I
pulled the pan again and this time I decided to get a new oil pump since
it only cost $21.99 I thought why not replace it. This time I took the
pick up tube off the old pump and installed it on the new pump. I
poured Oil into both ends of the pump and with my hand turned the drive
shaft to get oil going through it both ways. I then put another new
gasket and RTV on the pan and installed the pump and pan again. Which
this time DID NOT GO AS EASY AS THE FIRST TIME. I was very frustrated by
then. So anyway today I get home from work. Poured Oil in the engine
and started it. Low and behold I again have no oil pressure. I took
the oil fill cap off and looked at the top of the rocker arms and there
is no oil spraying. I am sure that I got the pump on correctly this
time.

What am I doing wrong.....? Is there something I should be doing that I
haven't done? Is there some trick to getting the pump to work? Is there
a way to tell if the pump is turning before bolting the pan back in
place? My current plan is to take off work on Friday and drain the oil
and pull the pan again. This time I am going to take my time to ensure
that the pump works. Any other tricks out there that others have done
would be greatly appreciated. BTW there is not much room to work
between the edge of the pan the block. This is one engine were the oil
pump needs to in the back of the engine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Garry Bowling
garrya bellsouth.net
67 F100 352.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 09:48:44 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Off Topic, HELP! Excel function?

Ok! :-):-):-) I have the solution, sorry for the interruptions. If anyone
else is doing this and would like some info on it please feel free to mail
me privately. Thanks! :-)

The problem was extracting the interest rate from a mortgage formula which
uses the "????" approximation method which is just inserting educated
guesses into the formula in place of the interest rate untill either the
Principle or payment comes out to the value you want. In this case both the
principle and payment are known so I only need to use one or the other
formula and using while loops with ever decreasing values added to "I" I
generate either the principle or payment and then know what rate is needed
for this. The sheet does a primary what if then shows a future roll over
scenerio along with an investment scenerio and I wanted the rollover to use
the same payment, new principle and term and show the worst case interest
rate. Now it does and I'm a happy camper :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > Does anyone know how to use a function to insert data into cells
> > in an Excel
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 09:58:42 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - overdrive questions

Wrong! Because you have lower low and second you can afford to gear up in
the rear end either by changing the gears or putting on larger tires and you
then do get an over drive effect but with only 3 gears which is the only
advantage the OD's have, it spreads the load better under varying conditions
over 4 gears to get the most out of the engine. The three speed will give
you better mileage at cruise but you will lose a little over the OD's in the
lower speeds due to fewer gears to choose from.

All the wide ratio does is allow taller top gear with no bottom end
penalties which with larger engines is good enough. Smaller engines need
more gears, 400's and 460's don't :-) The E4OD is definitely going to give
you better over all economy even over the C-6 wide ratio in most
applications but is the differnce worth all the trouble and will you be
happy with a transmission which is not as strong or reliable as the C-6?
(running for cover :-))

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167....


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