From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #320
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, September 8 1999 Volume 03 : Number 320



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
majordomo ford-trucks.com
with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Tires and Transmission
RE: FTE 61-79 - I need Fenders and a Tailgate
FTE 61-79 - Y Blocks
Re: FTE 61-79 - Flair side
FTE 61-79 - Re I need fenders and a tailgate
FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes
FTE 61-79 - Electrically Stuck!
FTE 61-79 - Re: Manual Transmission (Painted or not?)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes
FTE 61-79 - '68 F-100 Chrome Needed
FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems
FTE 61-79 - Power Assist ram seal
Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - Electrically Stuck!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 20:52:12 -0400
From: "Tony"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Tires and Transmission

Summit Racing Equipment sells a welded steel muffler that looks just like a
Flowmaster but is a little cheaper. My advice is you don't want a glasspack
muffler because as the name implies it is filled with fiberglass that over a
short time will burn out. Can you say illegal sound level? I would advise
at least a three chamber muffler which is quieter than a two chamber.
Anthony D. Daniels

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of Bill Richardson
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 8:39 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tires and Transmission

Okay thanks for all the advice about the tires and the transmission. I went
home recntly and drove it around the block and whatever was making the
whistling sound has apparently fixed itself. The rims and tires however were
on national backorder. I'm still looking around for a good deal. If anyone
has any (cheap) suggestions I'd appreciated them. I want to try to run
15x10s on 275/60/15. I know they will fit because I've saw a truck around
campus that has them. I also need some advice on exhaust systems. I
originally wanted flowmasters, but due to my tight budget I'm seeking
alternatives. What are glasspacks? Cheaper than flowmasters? Any ideas are
greatly appreciated. thanks

Bill Richardson
1979 F-100 2wd, 302
LSU Geaux Tigers

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 21:04:35 -0400
From: "Tony"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - I need Fenders and a Tailgate

Which trucks came with the high backs bench seat and will this fit in a 70
F100 Standard Cab 2wd Shrt bed
Anthony D. Daniels

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of Southerland, Rich
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 11:47 AM
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - I need Fenders and a Tailgate

Put a 60/40 out of a '95 into my inlaws '67. Only had to drill 2 holes if I
recall correctly. Paid $200 for a brand new take-out from a Ford recycler
(that was in '96). Looks great!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Tony [mailto:td1320 home.com]
Sent: Monday, September 06, 1999 7:48 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I need Fenders and a Tailgate


Hi, I need fenders and a tail gate for my 70 F100 2WD Short Bed automatic
302 cu in. Also what late model trucks can I get a 60/40 Split bench seat
out of that will fit my truck size wise. Actual bolt mounting fit is not a
concern.

Anthony D. Daniels

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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 18:13:17 -0700
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Y Blocks

Azie:

You were close when you said 255. I answered the original post
earlier. The first Y block was a 239 and then 256, 272, 292, 312.

Tim Bowman
(cut my automotive teeth on Y blocks; now big on FE's)

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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 21:17:48 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Flair side

In a message dated 09/07/1999 6:29:58 PM !!!First Boot!!!, tony pscico.com
writes:



Tony >>

HeHe you're right Tony! *wink*
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 20:45:27 -0700
From: "Wes and Deirdre Erickson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re I need fenders and a tailgate

Tony try Browns out of Two Rivers for the fenders repros for 160 bucks each
I have dealt with them alot and they do a good job.
There in Two Rivers Wis.
In Wisconsin 1-800-242-7678 other 1-800-558-7750

Wes
1971 F250 4x4 4gear 360ci
1985 F250 4x4 4gear 351ci

- -----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-digest
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 3:11 AM
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #318


>
>61-79-list-digest Tuesday, September 7 1999 Volume 03 : Number
318
>
>
>
>=======================================================================
>Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
>Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>To unsubscribe, send email to:
>majordomo ford-trucks.com
>with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the
>message.
>=======================================================================
>In this issue:
>
>FTE 61-79 - FE Valve Adjustment
>FTE 61-79 - I need Fenders and a Tailgate
>FTE 61-79 - Further proof that Fords are better than Chevys
>FTE 61-79 - power steering conversion
>FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Web site pictorial updates
>FTE 61-79 - Thank You All
>FTE 61-79 - Door Seal Install Q's
>
>=======================================================================
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 06 Sep 1999 09:45:21 -0700
>From: "O'Connor"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Valve Adjustment
>
>You don't realy adjust the valves, you change the clearance between the
>rocker arm and the pushrod! I think it is .05-.150" for a 352/360 without
>looking it up. Inspect the "ball" seat in the rocker arm where the pushrod
>pivots. If it is warn severly, you will need to change them. That will
>give you less clearance and the pushrods may be OK. If the clearance is
>still not correct, you can buy oversize and undersize ones at Autozone.
>While checking the clearance, you have to turn the crank to the correct
>positions to assure that the valves are seated and the cam is down all the
>way. Good luck
>
>Tim (Rebuilt 352)
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>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 10:47:59 -0400
>From: "Tony"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - I need Fenders and a Tailgate
>
>Hi, I need fenders and a tail gate for my 70 F100 2WD Short Bed automatic
>302 cu in. Also what late model trucks can I get a 60/40 Split bench seat
>out of that will fit my truck size wise. Actual bolt mounting fit is not a
>concern.
>
>Anthony D. Daniels
>
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>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 06 Sep 1999 18:19:03 +0100
>From: "Robert Werner"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Further proof that Fords are better than Chevys
>
>The other night I was just sittin round the house when a kid I know from
school came over. Him and his whole family are all big Chevy people.
Anyways, he has a late 70's Camamro which he's been tryin to sell. No
buyers, so he went out for a little cru
>
>ise. Didn't get very far, cause the drive shaft fell off...for the 3rd
time. He told me never to buy one like his, he's had nothin but trouble
with it. Also, the county fair had a demolition derby recently. I wonder
why Chevy's are the victims of ch
>
>oice for those things, and why Fords always end up towing them off the
track?
>Robert
>
>P.S. Anybody know of any full-size Ford pickups for sale in the Western
Michigan area w/ no engines? 4x4, and Manual transmission prefered. Thanks
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>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 06 Sep 1999 13:06:34 -0400
>From: "J. Doss Halsey"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - power steering conversion
>
>Hey, Folks
>
>I have an update for you and a question about my power steering conversion:
>
>The update:
>
>I have built my 390 4V and it is sitting on the engine stand awaiting a
>free weekend to install it. In the last few weeks I removed the cab from
>the frame in the driveway (much to the chagrin of my wife). I installed new
>cab mounts and painted the frame and entire underside of the cab with
>POR-15 semigloss black. I love that stuff. I got the cab back on, now I am
>reassembling the front clip.
>
>The power steering conversion:
>
>I have had fits with this. I am trying to put a '72 (Ford) power steering
>unit and pump into my '68 F250 2WD. I have the pump, the unit, FE brackets,
>the shorter column for the steering, and the power steering driver's side
>engine mount horn. My problem relates to the pitman arm. The pitman arm for
>the '72 power unit seems to be at the wrong angle for my drag link. The
>pitman arm from the '68 (Ford) manual unit, although having the correct
>length and angle, has a different spline and won't fit on the '72 power
>steering unit.
>
>Should I get the whole drag link from a '72 power steering truck? Is there
>a third pitman arm which will solve my problem?
>
>Any advice would be appreciated.
>
>Doss Halsey
>'68 F250 Camper Special, Ranger Trim
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>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 06 Sep 1999 14:11:18 -0400
>From: Ken Payne
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Web site pictorial updates
>
>The following have been added to the web site pictorial:
>
>
>1950 F1
>1956 F100
>1966 F100
>1971 F100
>1973 F350 Super Camper Special Ranger
>1986 F350 Ambulance
>1990 F150 XLT Lariat
>1999 F150
>
>
>Ken Payne
>Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>http://www.ford-trucks.com
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>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 21:37:05 -0400
>From: "Matthew Schwartz"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Thank You All
>
>Well, after almost one year, I finally drove my Re-born F-250 supercab out
>of the driveway and down the road. What was to be a quick engine swap
turned
>into a winter project, then it morphed into a "life experience". So ...gone
>is the 302 / 4 speed for a rebuilt 460/c6. Thanks to all those that have
>responded to my questions over the year.
>
>Matt
>
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>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 23:33:05 -0400 (EDT)
>From: crewcab altavista.net
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Door Seal Install Q's
>
>I spent several hours removing, prepping, and installing
>the front passenger door seal over the weekend, what a pain!
>
>Before I embark on the remaining 3 doors, does anyone
>have any solutions to the following problems:
>
>Removal of old seal remnants and glue without removing
>the paint underneath.
>
>Installing seal when both ends of an area are preformed,
>forcing one to install them before the middle areas.
>
>I used contact cement and when installing rubber into a
>corner invariably one side touches (and sticks) before
>the other leaving the seal in a slightly wrong position.
>
>Teach me oh all knowing ones of the FTE!
>
>I will say the seal (purchased from Vintage Ford) fit
>very well, with the formed pieces fitting properly in
>the appropriate places. Cost 65$ for a pair.
>
>The lack of a good seal contributed greatly to the many
>rattles in the truck, one down, three to go! I will
>have to do some creative re-engineering to fit the seal
>to the rear doors! Time to play with some sharp objects!
>
>Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab
>
>
>
>- ----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
>------------------------------
>
>End of 61-79-list-digest V3 #318
>********************************
>
>+----- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 though 1979 Trucks And Vans -----+
>| Send posts to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 02:23:13 -0400
From: Garry Bowling
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes

HELP HELP
Well as most of you know I asked about changing the oil pan and got many
good ideas. I did this task over the weekend and so far it has been a
disaster. First off I definitely found were the leaks were. It seems
when the engine was rebuilt the main seals were not trimmed flush with
the block. The cause the gasket to not fit tight. I pulled the pan off
Saturday. I re installed the oil pump and oil pump drive shaft (or so I
thought) and put the pan back on Sunday. Anyway, 24 hrs later I started
the truck and low and behold I have no oil pressure. Well obviously I
thought I did not get the oil pump drive shaft installed. Sooooo I
pulled the pan again and this time I decided to get a new oil pump since
it only cost $21.99 I thought why not replace it. This time I took the
pick up tube off the old pump and installed it on the new pump. I
poured Oil into both ends of the pump and with my hand turned the drive
shaft to get oil going through it both ways. I then put another new
gasket and RTV on the pan and installed the pump and pan again. Which
this time DID NOT GO AS EASY AS THE FIRST TIME. I was very frustrated by
then. So anyway today I get home from work. Poured Oil in the engine
and started it. Low and behold I again have no oil pressure. I took
the oil fill cap off and looked at the top of the rocker arms and there
is no oil spraying. I am sure that I got the pump on correctly this
time.

What am I doing wrong.....? Is there something I should be doing that I
haven't done? Is there some trick to getting the pump to work? Is there
a way to tell if the pump is turning before bolting the pan back in
place? My current plan is to take off work on Friday and drain the oil
and pull the pan again. This time I am going to take my time to ensure
that the pump works. Any other tricks out there that others have done
would be greatly appreciated. BTW there is not much room to work
between the edge of the pan the block. This is one engine were the oil
pump needs to in the back of the engine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Garry Bowling
garrya bellsouth.net
67 F100 352.

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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 19:20:44 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Electrically Stuck!

If you choose to respond to this plea for help do so direct as I am on
digest and would like to solve this puzzle tonight.
I have a new to me 75 F250.
At some point somebody installed Dual batteries with a isolator/regulator
etc.
For the life of me I can not figure out what they did and how to get it
back to stock, single Battery!

I have busted all of the wires out of their goof-ball non factory tape job.
I have figured out most of it, but...

There is a plug containing 3 wires:
10ga. Black w/ Yellow Stripe.
16ga. Yellow.
16ga. Red.

Looking at my wiring diagram both the Blk/Y, and Yellow connect to the "hot
side of the Solenoid.
Where did the red wire go before someone cut it off? It is not listed in my
schematic!

On the Voltage Regulator there is a connector with 4 contacts
Viewed from the top with the connector facing away from you they are labeled
left to right:

F S A I

The F contact has an Orange Wire connected to the Alternator.
The S Contact has a Green w/ Red Stripe that dives into the Factory harness.
The A Contact has 2 yellow wires one to the Alternator, & one to a Cap.
The I wire has NOTHING.
I have never seen this configuration. Every copy of a Ford wiring diagram
that I have shows a Green w/Red Stripe wire that is suppose to connect here.
I simply put don't have that wire available. It is not in the truck!

HELP!!!
Electrically challenged in PDX.
AKA. MUEL


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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 22:14:23 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Manual Transmission (Painted or not?)

Stock Man said:

Larry.Schmiedekamp angelo.edu writes:
>> There are some paints on the market that leave it unpainted
>> looking but put a protected coating on to keep from rusting.

>Thanks for your input Larry. Have you personally tried any of these
>products? What is the "List" concensus on Eastwood's products?


I used some "rebuilder's gray" spray paint when I rebuilt the carb on my
Falcon. It has, similar to my Club Wagon, a 1-bbl stock carb with a cast
base. I forget what brand the paint was, but I bought it at Pep Boys and
figured it was about the same as Eastwood but a few bucks less expensive.

I first cleaned the base with a wire wheel in a drill. That took off all
the crud and rust. It looked good and I was going to leave it that way, but
I figured it would start to rust again, so I gave the paint a try.

I am VERY impressed with the way it looks. I dare say that my little
rebuild of the carb looked sharp. The spray paint has an original look,
with just a hint of metallic glint -- the same you would get when you use
the wire wheel on the cast metal.

The only drawback -- and this might be a big one -- is durability. Because
it's a spray can product, it's not incredibly durable. Heavy solvents will
strip it (like carb cleaner ... real convenient for a carb, huh?
it might not hold up well to rocks if used on a tranny.

- -don

- --
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles


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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 22:25:25 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Help with oil pan woes

In a message dated 9/7/99 10:14:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
garrya bellsouth.net writes:

> Any other tricks out there that others have done
> would be greatly appreciated.

Put your engine at TDC by hand. Pull the distributor cap and mark the rotor
location. Then mark the location of the distributor housing to the block.
Pull the distributor. Look in to see if you see the pump shaft which should
be visible down in there (it mates to the bottom center of the distributor
shaft. I made a special shaft that fits down over the pump shaft so that I
can drive it with a drill. I hesitate to mention that a socket with
extension works in a pinch because you would be the one lucky guy who tries
it and has the socket fall off into the base :-(. If you drive the shaft
with the key in the "on" position this will pump oil and your gauge should
now be reading oil pressure. If you have a light in your cluster it should
go out. This method will prime a pump as long as the pick-up is getting oil.
I would recommend installing a temporary gauge at the motor if you have a
light in light of the new pump so that you get an idea of what your actual
oil pressure is running at various RPM's. Also (not to point out the obvious
or offend you) I am assuming that you reconnected the sender wire?

I hope this helps.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 20:49:52 -0700
From: John Corbett
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '68 F-100 Chrome Needed

I need a cab corner chrome piece and talilight chrome for my '68 F-100. Is
there an aftermarket supplier for this type of stuff or is it strictly
salvage yard time.

Thanks, jc
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 20:51:59 -0700
From: grahams thefuture.net (Smith, Graham)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems

Howdy,

I am getting down to finding places for all of the little parts and I have a
few questions for all the M-Block Devotee's

1st Q. What is suppose to go in the small hole on thru right front of the
motor just below the heater return hose?

2nd Q. Has anyone been able to get the factory cruise control to work with
Edlebrock 1400 Carb? I think that I just need to get a different support
bracket.

3rd Q. This one needs some explaining. I have the Edlebrock 1400 Carb with
the 4v adapter plate. There is a hole in the front manifold plate(manifold
pressure??) and one in the back of the carb. Which one or should I use
both? This truck has power brakes which came off of the manifold 'T' from
the back of the intake manifold on the old motor. I was think using the one
in the back for the power brakes and the front on for the other manifold
pressure. Am I totally off base or what?

Thanks

Graham
1978 Supercab 4x4 'The Black Beast'


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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 22:41:10 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power Assist ram seal

Hi I own a 74 F250 4X4 high-boy with np205 T.case,np435 4sp, and Dana
60's. I am wondering if you guys could tell me if it is possible to get
the seal for power cylinder ram (power assist steering system). Mine is
currently leaking from this seal and is getting worse. The local Ford
parts person said that he can only get the whole ram not just the seal.

Thanks
Kirk Baillie

Pictures to come once im finished fixing it up
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 22:42:00 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems

Are you talking about the hole that goes through the block into the oil pan
(if one's installed)? Just below the right bank of cylinders? If so then
it's where the dipstick tube goes on a car block. Ask Don Berry, he can
verify that, right Don?

Can't help you with the rest of it right now I haven't got my new
manifold/carb yet.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Smith, Graham
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 8:52 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems


>Howdy,
>
>I am getting down to finding places for all of the little parts and I have
a
>few questions for all the M-Block Devotee's
>
>1st Q. What is suppose to go in the small hole on thru right front of the
>motor just below the heater return hose?
>
>2nd Q. Has anyone been able to get the factory cruise control to work with
>Edlebrock 1400 Carb? I think that I just need to get a different support
>bracket.
>
>3rd Q. This one needs some explaining. I have the Edlebrock 1400 Carb
with
>the 4v adapter plate. There is a hole in the front manifold plate(manifold
>pressure??) and one in the back of the carb. Which one or should I use
>both? This truck has power brakes which came off of the manifold 'T' from
>the back of the intake manifold on the old motor. I was think using the
one
>in the back for the power brakes and the front on for the other manifold
>pressure. Am I totally off base or what?



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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 23:58:08 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Electrically Stuck!

Chris Samuel wrote:
[help - dual battery to single]
>
> I have busted all of the wires out of their goof-ball non
> factory tape job.
> I have figured out most of it, but...
>
> There is a plug containing 3 wires:
> 10ga. Black w/ Yellow Stripe.
> 16ga. Yellow.
> 16ga. Red.
>
> Looking at my wiring diagram both the Blk/Y, and Yellow connect
> to the "hot side of the Solenoid.
> Where did the red wire go before someone cut it off? It is not
> listed in my schematic!

I suspect the red also connects to the solenoid, the other end
is likely connected to your ammeter. The trick is going to be
hooking these up in the right order so that your ammeter will
try and work (not that they work all that well anyway).

> On the Voltage Regulator there is a connector with 4 contacts
> Viewed from the top with the connector facing away from you
> they are labeled left to right:
>
> F S A I
>
> The F contact has an Orange Wire connected to the Alternator.

Yep, Field Wire . .

> The S Contact has a Green w/ Red Stripe that dives into the
> Factory harness.

If you have an ammeter, then this wire should be switched 12
volts from the ignition switch, and the "I" wire is not used.

> The A Contact has 2 yellow wires one to the Alternator, & one
> to a Cap.

Sounds right . . .

> The I wire has NOTHING.

This is correct, IF you have an ammeter instead of an idiot
light.

> I have never seen this configuration. Every copy of a Ford wiring
> diagram that I have shows a Green w/Red Stripe wire that is suppose
> to connect here.

And every copy must have also had an idiot light in series with
the green/red wire.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 02:33:44 -0500
From: "Shane"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems

Answer to 1st Q. I believe that would be where your temp sensor goes? If
we are talking about the same hole

Answer to 2nd Q. Edelbrock recomends the #1405 (Manual Choke) #1406
(Electric Choke) carb for a 351 M. The 1400 Says in the first line of
the discription "50-State Legal for all Chevrolet/GMC V8 Engines... (but
it doesn't say it won't work on a Ford. The diference between them is:
1400 Metering Rods .070 x .047
1406 Metering Rods .075 x .047
(Don't know what that means but that is what it says)

The list price for the #1400 is also $18 more than the #1406.

It is possible that none of this makes a difference and that they will both
still work but I would hate to see you have the wrong card and have to try
to take it back after it was used. That may be part of your problem. But
they also say that you need part #1483 (Throttle Lever Kit) and #1493 (Cable
Plate 351M/400) for automatic transmissions. That might help too. And it
lists the 1405 and 1406 as acceptable for use with factory cruise control.

Sorry I can't help with the 3rd Q.


Shane


P.S. All this information came from the 1999 Edelbrock Catalog






- ----- Original Message -----
From: Smith, Graham
To:
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 10:51 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Motor Install Problems


> Howdy,
>
> I am getting down to finding places for all of the little parts and I have
a
> few questions for all the M-Block Devotee's....


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