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61-79-list-digest Sunday, September 5 1999 Volume 03 : Number 316



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - 390 Power and Edelbrock Heads Compared
FTE 61-79 - Thanks
FTE 61-79 - Removing stubborn kingpins
Re: FTE 61-79 - Removing stubborn kingpins
FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79- 70 F100 2WD
FTE 61-79 - looking for help with 68 4x4 auto swap
RE: FTE 61-79 - looking for help with 68 4x4 auto swap
FTE 61-79 - Re: paint job
FTE 61-79 - Block Code
FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 3spd. Manual Transmission (Painted or not?)
FTE 61-79 - Re: FTE Perf - Chris et. al. - was: Apologies to Bill and you!
Re: FTE 61-79 - 3spOD
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 3spd. Manual Transmission (Painted or not?)
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 3spd. Manual Transmission (Painted or not?)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: FTE Perf - Chris et. al. - was: Apologies to Bill and you!
RE: FTE 61-79 - looking for help with 68 4x4 auto swap
RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 oil pressure
RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 oil pressure
FTE 61-79 - Pad Squeal
FTE 61-79 - 223 aftermarket parts
FTE 61-79 - 6 cylinder headers on E-bay

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Sep 1999 05:45:24 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 Power and Edelbrock Heads Compared

> Does this mean that you would not choose a cam that favors the exhaust side
> of things? The flow numbers that you mention is that on heads with the
> thermactor bumps in the exhaust ports? Would you go to the trouble of
> grinding out those bumps?
>
> Maybe if the stock manifolds were so bad that's how the motor got the
> reputation for poor flowing exhuaust ports. But most magazine buildups
> include headers which would eliminate that as a problem. Hmm.

I don't think that this design needs the dual pattern cam any more than
any other design. If I planned to use one it would be for a specific
tuning issue. If you think about it, if you put more duration on the
exhaust side, you'd have to be careful where you put it. If you open it
sooner you could bleed off that last little bit of power at the end of
the compression stroke, the ring seal would nose over and the rings
would pull away from the ring lands and allow blow-by. If you keep it
open later in the exhaust stroke, you could kill off the scavenging
pulse at low and mid rpms and kill off torque, and pull out fresh
mixture into the exhaust. You only want as much as you need for what
you are trying to do. I ran some simulations on Desktop Dyno, and found
very little gained, like 6 degrees more on the exhaust had the same
effect as retarding the cam 2-4 degrees. More up high, less down low.
But the point is that if you don't need it, it would hurt efficiency or
have no needed effect. IMHO, the FE doesn't really need it.

I always thought that if any engine needed more duration on the exhaust
it was the Windsor family, not the FE. You can hearly put your thumb in
those ports!

The Edelbrock heads don't have bumps in them. The data is from the
Edelbrock head, and I think their comparisons to stock were
non-thermactor, but I don't know that for sure. The thermactor bumps
need to go, mostly to get back volume. The exhaust doesn't get hurt as
bad by a few little bumps as the intake does, as long as they're smooth,
and round enough for the air to go over. If they were squared or very
pronounced, they would split the airflow and cause turbulence.

I'm no airflow expert, OK? But, from looking at and living with these
engines for years, I can see that there are some misconceptions the
aftermarket has propogated in designing their parts. I have to give
Edelbrock some credit for finally doing a little research on them and
seeing what I've been saying for years. That those old engines could
breathe!
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Date: Sat, 04 Sep 1999 05:55:32 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Thanks

> My neighbor's doing that. House isn't selling or buyers keep coping out due
> to financial difficultys. He moved from the Delphi plant in Adrian to a GM
> plant in Jainsville, Wisconsin to keep his GM seniority and retirement.
> It's a tad more than 150 miles :-) East side of Michigan to north of
> Chicago. Best wishes for your new career :-)

Thank you Gary, and everyone else who has wished me well in this
endeavour. To be truthful, this has been the worst six months of my
life, and who knows, the next six may be worse. One thing I do know, is
there's folks who've had it alot worse. At least my house didn't burn
down. Having this avenue of discussion has helped me get through those
sleepless nights. I really appreciate you guys(and gals).
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Date: Sat, 04 Sep 1999 07:58:00 -0400
From: Jim Knapper
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Removing stubborn kingpins

A while ago someone came up with a schematic for a tool they made that
lets you press out the kingpins using a small bottle jack. Does anyone
have a copy of them that they can send me?
Thanks.

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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 07:59:50 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Removing stubborn kingpins

In a message dated 9/4/99 7:54:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jim.knapper sympatico.ca writes:

> A while ago someone came up with a schematic for a tool they made that
> lets you press out the kingpins using a small bottle jack. Does anyone
> have a copy of them that they can send me?

That would be Steve Delanty's invention. Here is a link to the tech article
he wrote.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/show-n-tell/press02.jpg

Have fun!

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 08:51:54 -0400
From: "Tony"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79- 70 F100 2WD

Hi, I need fenders and a tail gate for my 70 F100 2WD Short Bed automatic
302 cu in. Also what late model trucks can I get a 60/40 Split bench seat
out of that will fit my truck size wise. Actual bolt mounting fit is not a
concern.
Anthony D. Daniels

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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 09:29:47 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - looking for help with 68 4x4 auto swap

Hi Joe,

I'm installing a 77 NP435 and NP205 in my 69 F-100 4x4....

I went ahead and bolted in the engine first, then made measurements and had a
custom plate fabricated for the transmission mount. I was able to use the
stock upper piece for this mount that bolts to the tranny/Xfercase adapter,
but the bottom piece had to be re-done to fit the crossmember....I'll take a
picture of it before I put it in.

I'm actually hoping to get that in today....by the way, I think the
observation that the engine sits slightly off center is correct. I'm
wondering if this has something to do with "balancing out" the torque while
under power??? The U-joint theory may be correct, but they already have an
imposed angle since the T-case output is so much higher than the diff....By
the way, I'm removing the two-piece driveline setup and installing a single
driveshaft in the rear, just like the 77's.....

Hope this helps....

CJ


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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 09:33:16 -0400
From: "Tony"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - looking for help with 68 4x4 auto swap

CJ, I always thought that the off center mounting of the engine and
transmission was to compensate for the drivers weight. Most drivers drive
alone.
Anthony D. Daniels

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of BDIJXS aol.com
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 1999 9:30 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - looking for help with 68 4x4 auto swap

Hi Joe,

I'm installing a 77 NP435 and NP205 in my 69 F-100 4x4....

I went ahead and bolted in the engine first, then made measurements and had
a
custom plate fabricated for the transmission mount. I was able to use the
stock upper piece for this mount that bolts to the tranny/Xfercase adapter,
but the bottom piece had to be re-done to fit the crossmember....I'll take a
picture of it before I put it in.

I'm actually hoping to get that in today....by the way, I think the
observation that the engine sits slightly off center is correct. I'm
wondering if this has something to do with "balancing out" the torque while
under power??? The U-joint theory may be correct, but they already have an
imposed angle since the T-case output is so much higher than the diff....By
the way, I'm removing the two-piece driveline setup and installing a single
driveshaft in the rear, just like the 77's.....

Hope this helps....

CJ


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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 10:16:51 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: paint job

grant eversoll said:
>
> Can anyone tell me where to look to find the color schemes of the 1976
> F250. At one time part of the truck was red.

Check with any auto literature vendor. Look in Hemmings or try the next big
car show. Most vendors I have seen have original paint swatch sheets. These
have color chips and are usually $5 for any given year. Also, a good paint
store should have color swatches. Good luck.

- -don

- --
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles


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Date: Sat, 04 Sep 1999 09:49:18 -0700
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Block Code

Also don't forget 239 or 256 which preceded the 272.


Well I've figured out that at the least it is a Y-Block. Now I'm
trying
> to determine if it's a 292 or a 312. >>

Don't forget about the 272 Y-Block.



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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 12:57:51 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 3spd. Manual Transmission (Painted or not?)

Does anyone have any information on whether Ford put paint on their standard
3spd manual transmission in 1966? When I degreased mine it had absolutely no
evidence of any paint only bare metal and rust. There was a 1/2" x 1/2" small
white painted "o.k." in the fill side. I am probably going to shoot some
"chassis black" on it but before I do I wanted to get some feedback. Thanks
in advance.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 10:35:29 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: FTE Perf - Chris et. al. - was: Apologies to Bill and you!

No offense taken Chris. Didn't mean to say you weren't "official" I just
thought it was interesting to see exactly the same thing in print from an
exhaust manufacturer.

OK now it's time for something I know everyone has been waiting for...the
update on the "Killer 400" project. OK...so only a few deluded M block
devotees have been waiting for it but here it is anyway. The block is in the
shop hot tanked, bored to .020 over with new freeze plugs, cam bearings and
sporting a sexy, new, corporate blue paint job. The flat top, 9:1 pistons
are on order from somewhere in the midwest or "flyover country" as us coast
dwellers call it (just kidding, a little humor there, I lived in Michigan
for 3 years). As soon as they arrive I'm taking the crank, rods, pistons,
flexplate & har. bal. in for balancing. The 2V Cleveland heads are bead
blasted and sitting in on my workbench waiting for some loving caresses from
the die grinder, nothing too exotic just a little cleanup, smoothing &
polishing. Other ingredients for the recipe are an Edelbrock 4V manifold and
650 cfm 4V carb. Headers will come later.

Now it's time to get down to the nitty gritty. I put together a spreadsheet
with my cam choices on it and now I'd like some input. I hope that this
comes thorough legibly on most mail readers.

Just a reminder this is going into a 79 F250 4X4 with 3.54 gears, 33 inch
tires and a C6. It's a low mileage semi daily driver that gets to go out and
play in the mountains with the other 4 wheelers several times per year right
now, hopefully more in the near future. And yes, I do want to be able to
thumb my nose at most big block guys.



Adv Duration
Duration .050 Lift
Camshaft Int Exh
Int Exh Int Exh LobeSep
Comp Cams 32-000-5 268 268 224 230
.524 .529 110
Crane PowerMax H-272-2 272 284 216 228
.524 .519 112
Ford SVO FOR-M-6250-A341 292 302 214 224
.510 .536
SSI 11341 280 290 214
224 .510 .536 112
Edelbrock EDE-2172 282 292 204
214 .484 .510
General Kinetics F5-252-P 252 258 204 214
.484 .510 112

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Samuel
To: A Perf-List
Date: Saturday, September 04, 1999 9:53 AM
Subject: FTE Perf - Apologies to Bill and you!


>Hi Bill, and Everybody!
>
>So, to anyone that I offended, or came off as an arrogant SOB (though I
am).
>I do here by most humbly apologize.



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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 14:12:14 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 3spOD

thanks AZIE, my home fax # is 770-229-8742

jef grant
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 14:08:19 -0400
From: "Ray Taschenberger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 3spd. Manual Transmission (Painted or not?)

Ford man
It was not uncommon to find Ford drivetrain parts unpainted in the late '50s
and '60s. IMHO, if I were doing a restoration that would see KNOWLEDGEABLE
judging and found an inspection mark and the rest of the tranny were void of
any paint I would not paint the tranny. I would try to get the casting to
look original and let the mark visible. If all your truck will see is the
"parking lot, whomever they can catch" judging, paint it, because most of
them won't know what is correct and what is not. Most of this type judging
I've seen means that "if the paint don't shine, it ain't good 'nuf", If
your intent is "bone stock original", don't paint. Might be someone will
KNOW what is correct and respond. Good luck, ray

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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 14:39:58 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 F-250 3spd. Manual Transmission (Painted or not?)

In a message dated 9/4/99 2:19:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rlmtasch n-jcenter.com writes:

> I would try to get the casting to
> look original and let the mark visible. If all your truck will see is the
> "parking lot, whomever they can catch" judging, paint it, because most of
> them won't know what is correct and what is not. Most of this type judging
> I've seen means that "if the paint don't shine, it ain't good 'nuf", If
> your intent is "bone stock original", don't paint. Might be someone will
> KNOW what is correct and respond.

Thanks Ray....The inpection stamp was visible but unfortunately faded and in
an area of the tranny that had a lot of rust. There was also another mark I
omitted, a yellow-paint marker line which was on one of the mounting ears.
It was about 3" long and ran parallel to the bell (looking at it as it would
be installed). No paint anywhere near this mark either and this area of the
trans was in better shape than most so I think paint would have been easily
visible. I considered spraying it with a "cast iron" paint to retain the
original look. However, it's a "driver" which I plan on showing
ocassionally. Therefore, I am leaning towards the black paint. Mostly
because you do get the "ooohh---ahhhs" when someone sneaks a peak (and that
includes myself). I'll just have to ask Stu not to notice if he should look.


Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 11:49:22 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: FTE Perf - Chris et. al. - was: Apologies to Bill and you!

Ok so that sucked. Lets try it a different way. I threw it on a web page.
Take a look and tell me what you think.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.pacifier.com/~bbeyer/Cam_Comp.htm

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill Beyer
To: 61-79 List ; perf-list ford-trucks.com

Date: Saturday, September 04, 1999 10:35 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: FTE Perf - Chris et. al. - was: Apologies to Bill
and you!



>Now it's time to get down to the nitty gritty. I put together a spreadsheet
>with my cam choices on it and now I'd like some input. I hope that this
>comes thorough legibly on most mail readers.



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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 16:47:56 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - looking for help with 68 4x4 auto swap

> CJ, I always thought that the off center mounting of the engine and
> transmission was to compensate for the drivers weight. Most
> drivers drive
> alone.

> observation that the engine sits slightly off center is correct. I'm
> wondering if this has something to do with "balancing out" the
> torque while
> under power???

This is interesting ... in air planes you may notice the motor sits at an
angle (prop too), and is not quite centered, this is indeed to counteract
the torque, especailly in the air this is important (so your plane doesn't
naturally roll to one side or the other) .. on the ground I wouldn't think
this would be as big of an issue, but we are talking about lots more torque,
so it could come into play ...

We all know the real reason though ... the guy designing it was drunk and
wrote the wrong number down ... no, just kidding, its probably a little of
both, but also as someone mentioned the 4x4's especially have to worry about
the front drive shaft, its probably a compromise to get them both where they
are useful and not hurting the other so much ... maybe someone should look
at a Chevy and see if its off to the other side, if so, then its the drive
shaft location that determines it for sure.


> The U-joint theory may be correct, but they
> already have an
> imposed angle since the T-case output is so much higher than the
> diff....

I've never heard this for Ujoints, the only time I heard it was on CV
joints, and that was on FWD and other applications where the axles were in
line with the wheels, the wheels were then usually offset forward or
backward to promote even wear ...I wouldn't think a U joint would have that
problem as much ...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 16:56:04 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 oil pressure

> Well, I took my truck to a local shop to have it looked at under the
> engine warranty. The first thing they did was hook up their own oil
> pressure gauge that is calibrated weekly. According to their gauge I
> have 60 psi at cold idle and 45 psi when warm. I guess both my stock
> gauge and my after-market gauge where both giving me false readings.
>
That's interesting that the aftermarket gauge read differently than the one
they have ... was it a brand name ? Electric or mechanical ? sometimes it
can do with the amount of power supplied (ie low output from voltage
regulator) that will cause them to read low, but if its a mechanical gauge,
then there's no reason for it to read differently at all.


> This still doesn't solve my problem with valve noise. I guess its
> common for a FE to make noise, but I think mine is making to much for
> only being 4000 miles old. The guy at the shop suggested that there was
> a way to adjust the valves, but I have no idea how to go about this. I
> thought that hydraulic lifters adjusted themselves.
>

Lots of people think you can adjust the FE valves, but if you've got a stock
set, the only way is to shim the rocker shaft posts ... I thinks someone
mentioned doing this, but I wouldn't really advise it for a daily driver
unless you were having some major problems (like piston/lifter interference)
... when you did the rebuild did you put in an aftermarket cam ? I can't
remember if you said you did or not ... if so, and used stock lifters and
such this could be causing it .... or if the cam wasn't broken in properly,
maybe there are some issues with that ... at any rate I'd keep looking if it
was really that loud ... is it all the time, or just at higher revvs ?


> Oh, btw, I have a link for you all to check out. Finally got a www site
> with some pictures.
>
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://odoa4.odoa.org

Hey that looks great ... you mind if I put a link to it off of my "links"
page ? Us FE guys have to stick together ;)

When you rebuild the motor did you make it a 390 or have you checked it at
all ? the 390 wasn't available in the 4x4 from what I've seen ... the 360
was though, and it looks exactly the same on the outside (and some of the
insides too! :)

Also you talked about an NP203 case, switching to a 205 requires new drive
shafts and mounts and an adapter from the tranny to the 205 (different from
the one used for the 203) ... or you can get a kit to make the 203 into a
part time case, you've still got the chain in there, but I've had mine for
about 3 years now and haven't had any problems with it (other than worn
linkage and that's not the fault of the kit)


Wow,those 33's are big! I thought my 31's took a lot to move, I bet those
33's take forever to get rollin, though the FE will help with that a lot ;)

Good luck!

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 18:55:26 -0400
From: "Tony"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 oil pressure

Don't forget you can also increase and decrease the push rod length to
obtain proper valve lash. If you have shaved the heads or decked the block,
then you will need to adjust your push rod length accordingly. Also when
your valves are at half lift the rocker should be contacting the valve tip
in the center of the valve.
Hope this helps.
Anthony D. Daniels

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of William S. Hart
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 1999 5:56 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 oil pressure

> Well, I took my truck to a local shop to have it looked at under the
> engine warranty. The first thing they did was hook up their own oil
> pressure gauge that is calibrated weekly. According to their gauge I
> have 60 psi at cold idle and 45 psi when warm. I guess both my stock
> gauge and my after-market gauge where both giving me false readings.
>
That's interesting that the aftermarket gauge read differently than the one
they have ... was it a brand name ? Electric or mechanical ? sometimes it
can do with the amount of power supplied (ie low output from voltage
regulator) that will cause them to read low, but if its a mechanical gauge,
then there's no reason for it to read differently at all.


> This still doesn't solve my problem with valve noise. I guess its
> common for a FE to make noise, but I think mine is making to much for
> only being 4000 miles old. The guy at the shop suggested that there was
> a way to adjust the valves, but I have no idea how to go about this. I
> thought that hydraulic lifters adjusted themselves.
>

Lots of people think you can adjust the FE valves, but if you've got a stock
set, the only way is to shim the rocker shaft posts ... I thinks someone
mentioned doing this, but I wouldn't really advise it for a daily driver
unless you were having some major problems (like piston/lifter interference)
... when you did the rebuild did you put in an aftermarket cam ? I can't
remember if you said you did or not ... if so, and used stock lifters and
such this could be causing it .... or if the cam wasn't broken in properly,
maybe there are some issues with that ... at any rate I'd keep looking if it
was really that loud ... is it all the time, or just at higher revvs ?


> Oh, btw, I have a link for you all to check out. Finally got a www site
> with some pictures.
>
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://odoa4.odoa.org

Hey that looks great ... you mind if I put a link to it off of my "links"
page ? Us FE guys have to stick together ;)

When you rebuild the motor did you make it a 390 or have you checked it at
all ? the 390 wasn't available in the 4x4 from what I've seen ... the 360
was though, and it looks exactly the same on the outside (and some of the
insides too! :)

Also you talked about an NP203 case, switching to a 205 requires new drive
shafts and mounts and an adapter from the tranny to the 205 (different from
the one used for the 203) ... or you can get a kit to make the 203 into a
part time case, you've still got the chain in there, but I've had mine for
about 3 years now and haven't had any problems with it (other than worn
linkage and that's not the fault of the kit)


Wow,those 33's are big! I thought my 31's took a lot to move, I bet those
33's take forever to get rollin, though the FE will help with that a lot ;)

Good luck!

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Sep 1999 21:57:31 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pad Squeal

> Also on disk brakes, you need some kind of padding between the pad backing
> plate and the caliper frame or piston to prevent squealing due to vibration
> against the rotors. I generally just use whatever rtv I happen to have
> handy but high temp is much better for this and heat transfer material is
> even better.

I sell alot of these little packets, there at AutoZone, of silicone lube
that acts as a barrier against the vibration that causes squeal. I also
reccomend it on the pins for the same reason. It's amazing how much
chatter there is in a disc brake wheel. I attempt to get everyone to
take a packet of it when they buy brake pads, along with anti-sieze for
plugs, shocks, or exhaust work. We also have dielectric grease in small
packets that works great for plug boots. They are 89 cents a packet,
which is great to use and throw the pack away. I've wasted so much of
that stuff through the years it's ridiculous.
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Sep 1999 07:22:29 +0300
From: "Greg Schnakenberg"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 223 aftermarket parts....


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