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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #303
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61-79-list-digest Thursday, August 26 1999 Volume 03 : Number 303



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Holley Problem
FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume
RE: FTE 61-79 - 292 Manifold Sources
RE: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding
RE: FTE 61-79 - 50 Wt Gear Oil
FTE 61-79 - Plat plugs
RE: FTE 61-79 - cam selection
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Plat plugs
FTE 61-79 - Seal intake
FTE 61-79 - Plugs for 302
FTE 61-79 - 400W Gary P. writes: >>and....it's differnt, a sleeper :-)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Holley Problem
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Plat plugs
RE: FTE 61-79 - 400W Gary P. writes: >>and....it's differnt, a sl eeper :-)
FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume
FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
RE: FTE 61-79 - Henry must be angry with me.
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Differential gears
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: NOS Stuff
FTE 61-79 - list
FTE 61-79 - gasket glue
Re: FTE 61-79 - Henry must be angry with me.
FTE 61-79 - cid equations
FTE 61-79 - platinum plugs
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume
FTE 61-79 - RE: ratio check
RE: FTE 61-79 - Henry must be angry with me.
RE: FTE 61-79 - platinum plugs
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Engine building question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Holley Problem
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: ratio check
FTE 61-79 - Radio
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume
RE: FTE 61-79 - gasket glue
Re: FTE 61-79 - Need a radio
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding
RE: FTE 61-79 - platinum plugs
RE: FTE 61-79 - list
FTE 61-79 - Y block parts
FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake Bleeding (pressure bleeder)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Henry must be angry with me.
FTE 61-79 - Re: cam selection

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 06:47:13 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Holley Problem

If it only binds on the truck then you may have a torque problem.
Something, either on the carb or the manifold surface is uneven and causing
the body of the carb to move when you torque the flange nuts. I can't
really picture an accellerator pump linkage being affected by this but....
I have this problem with an Edlebrock manifold, the surface is slighly off
straight in one direction so when I tighten the nuts the secondary shaft
binds and it won't return to idle.......unless I leave two of the nuts
looser than I would like. The proper solution is to file the surfaces
perfectly flat so nothing moves when you torque the nuts.

It could also be a bind caused when you hook up the throttle linkage if some
linkage "passes" other linkage etc. so they rub.

Seems like I got the check ball in the wrong hole once and the piston
wouldn't come back up too so make sure it's together correctly. In this case
it will work fine with no fuel in it but the fuel seals the piston so it
creates a vacuum and won't come back up if the bleeder hole is clogged.

Why not use the Holley to pass inspection and then put the carter back on?
Do they have impromptu road checks?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I have a 84 f-250 with a Holley-Motorcraft 4bbl.
> Rebuilt the carb and now the accelerator pump sticks,
> the lever won't budge.
> Works fine off the truck and works fine for a while
> on the truck. Linkage works freely
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 07:12:38 EDT
From: NUTCH11 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume

hi

the formula for the volume of a cylinder is pi r squared h
3.1428 X radius X radius X height.
always use 3.1428 for pi and be sure to use all the decimal places when
dividing
the diameter of the cylinder to find the radius. (4.23 diameter, radius is
2.115)
it will make a difference.

nutch
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 07:20:50 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 292 Manifold Sources

PAW, AutoKraters, Classic (or obsolete or something) Ford Parts, Dennis
Carpenter and others have some of these parts for older engines.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Anybody have sources for original style intake and
> exhaust manifolds? I'm not knowledgable enough to
> know if there are different versions for different years.
> It's on my '64 F100 CrewCab.
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 07:17:28 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding

Ok, I've read all these posts and have a few comments.....I've done every
kind of bleeding in the book to my bronco and have come to some conclusions:

1..get some good gasoline rated teflon tape and tape the bleeder threads
(found mine at Lowe's in the plumbing dept.)
2..use gravity bleeding as a preliminary to any other kind of bleeding
3..use the half full (optimistic) jar with taped bleeders and tube which you
first bleed of all bubbles, get in, pump the brake slowly, full stroke a
couple of times and then a few partial quick strokes to move bubble over the
humps etc.. (make sure the tube is tight so it doesn't pop off)
4..take it slow and don't let the MC become low or empty
5..if you still have mushy brakes it could be the retension valve in the
proportioning valve body allowing the calipers to receed too far (turned out
to be my problem)
6..none of the pressure/vacuum methods gained me anything over the
gravity/bottle drain method (tried them several times each after watching
the video several times to make sure I was doing it right)
7..ALL MC'S MUST BE LEVEL, EVEN THE TILTED ONES, to get the air out so some
vehicles actually have to be unevenly jacked up to get it done right.
8..last but far from least is that a small leak, not large enough to allow
fluid to leak out, will allow air to leak in, slowly over time and your
brakes will degrade. This is the most frustrating aspect of brake care I
have run into (dealing with it now) because you can not detect where the
leak is :-(
9..Ok so it wan't last....I ran into an Escourt with cross over MC which
would not flow to the right rear or left front. The check valves worked so
the rebuilt MC was replaced (again) and the problem was solved. Something
in these newer style MC's is more fussy than the older ones and if not
properly assembled by the rebuilder they simply won't work. Do not attempt
to take one of these apart, you have to have thin shim stock as compressors
to get the rubbers back in....don't ask :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> When I do a job like this I use a bleeder tank. The tank is
> just a jar with
> a clear hose that is connnected to the top and then the end
> of the hose is
> submerged in brake fluid inside the jar.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 07:28:10 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 50 Wt Gear Oil

Jim, it is the synthetic aspect that make it flow better. All synthetics
have this property to one extent or other as I understand it. I know the
Mobil1 75-90 synthetic flows from the bottle like 50 wt but it is still
75-90 which is why it reduces the drag in the gear box and why I did not
hesitate to use it even though it calls for 50 wt. It is still a vast
improvement over dyno 90 wt :-)

Viscosity is viscosity AFAIK so, while the EP components may well add to the
viscosity they are still either 50 wt or 90 wt. viscosity is measured at
specific temps so it can be scientifically compared and is simply a measure
of how fast a fluid can flow through a specific size hole at a specific
temperature.

They use other indexes for other flow aspects and oil characteristics such
as the the EP ratings etc..

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> The synthetic 50 wt "gear oil" is still AFAIK based on the
> SAE standard
> for engine oil, and if it had EP qualities it would be called
> 90 wt gear
> lube. If I'm wrong about this, I'd like to know about it.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 06:38:10 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Plat plugs

>
> About 10 years ago I had a VW bug (my first car) that my parents bought me.
> I souped it up pretty good, and always bought my parts from one of the VW
> gurus, Gene Berg. This guy lives and breathes VW's and VW engines. His
> catalog was like a technical manual for improving every aspect of you car.
> He would tell what worked, what didn't, even if that meant not selling you
> a part he felt you didn't need. Anyway he put a set of platinum plugs in
> his personal vehicle to test them. He kept meticulous record of mileage
> (he's that kind of guy) and realized a 1-3 mpg drop with the platinum plugs
> with no other changes to the vehicle.

At the store we're supposed to push the Bosch Platinums, but I don't
unless it's a '93 up vehicle that would have possibly had platinum
plugs, or I think is capable of using them. I ask if they drive on the
highway alot, if they do, and it's a '93 up that didn't have them
originally, then I sell them the platinums. I reccommend Motorcraft, of
which we at AutoZone carry many applications of, for Fords, and AC-Delco
for GM and Chr*slers. I don't care what they say, but I can't in good
conscience tell someone there's an advantage when there isn't.

The reason is that the platinum plug operates in a different resistance
range than a normal plug, and if the ignition system isn't there then
you will see a drop in efficeincy and power. If I can ever get the
time, I plan to do some tests on some plugs, plug wires and coils to get
their impedence range, and see exactly how much a vehicle that came with
platinum plugs differs from one that does not. If it's conclusive, then
I'll go to someone and tell them to srop pushing the platinums unless
they came with them.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 07:46:30 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - cam selection

Are these 4v heads? If so the rochester won't help much although it's
better than a square bore any day :-) The large runners will not allow good
off idle power (torque) no matter what you do so a cam is not going to fix
this either. A torque engine requires certain criteria to be met as does a
hot, high rpm engine and they can not reside in the same space due to runner
requirments.

I would suggest you go with the cam spec that gives you the most over all
torque as close to your midrange goal as possible and hope that some of it
gets generated lower than spec.. This is the approach we 460, roller cam
guys have to take since they don't make rollers for the 460 to get good low
end torque, they are made for racing so power specs start above 2500 rpm in
all cases. You will have the same problem with the large runners in this
setup, no cam will generate much below 2500 rpm I would suspect.

I had a stock version of this engine but as a 351 in a 5k# van and it sucked
up to about 40 mph with an automatic, standard ratio c-6, stock converter.
Really took off after that but up to 40.......:-(

The second one will work pretty well from what I've read but lobe
separtation is another factor you should pay attention to. Get a catalog
and read up on the spec's and what they do before you make a selection.
Comp cams has a good one for this. Call the mfg's and ask for
recommendations. I know one fellow who had good luck with Lunati and good
tech advice as well in a 350 class circle track racing application. They
will grind you a cam for any application you specify. (as will most of them)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> -Keith Black cam and lifter kit for 1970-1982 Ford-Mercury V-8 Boss
> 351-351C-351M-400 CU IN. LIFT: Intake 484, Exhaust 510.
> DURATION: Intake
> 260, Exhaust 270.
>
> -Keith Black cam and lifter kit for 1970-1982 Ford-Mercury V-8 Boss
> 351-351C-351M-400 CU IN. LIFT: Intake 509, Exhaust 509.
> DURATION: Intake
> 274, Exhaust 284.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 07:45:41 -0400
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Plat plugs

I read a few pages on plugs and as a A&P cert. mechanic I do know that the
manifactures of spark plugs and the engineers of engines work hand in hand
and if you are running a basic stock engine then use what the engine maker
suggests. Best compustion, mileage, and least wear to valves, pistons, and
cylinders. Face it the use, type, and heat range of spark plugs are above
our techinal abilitys.
GA
- ----- Original Message -----
From: George W. Selby, III
To:
Cc: 61-79-List (E-mail)
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 1999 2:59 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Plat plugs


> About 10 years ago I had a VW bug (my first car) that my parents bought
me.
> I souped it up pretty good, and always bought my parts from one of the VW
> gurus, Gene Berg. This guy lives and breathes VW's and VW engines. His
> catalog was like a technical manual for improving every aspect of you car.
> He would tell what worked, what didn't, even if that meant not selling
you
> a part he felt you didn't need. Anyway he put a set of platinum plugs in
> his personal vehicle to test them. He kept meticulous record of mileage
> (he's that kind of guy) and realized a 1-3 mpg drop with the platinum
plugs
> with no other changes to the vehicle.
>
> George Selby
> 78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
> 86 Audi 4000CS Quattro - DEAD
> IsuzuG prodigy.net
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 07:59:04 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Seal intake

Marty C. writes: >>I have heard of many different ways to do this seal, some
suggest using only
a bead of silicone, others say cork, others say find a rubber one. What has
worked best in your experiences? I want to only have to do this one more
time - it's no fun to remove a FE intake.

You'll get as many answers here as there are people that respond. Everyone has
their favorite method, so here's mine: I use GE weather strip adhesive (Brigtht
Yellow) for this one. I lay a small bead on the block surface and immediately
install the gasket on it. I work the gasket back and forth a couple of times to
get the sealer spread. While this is getting tacky, I apply a like amount to
the sealing surface of the intake and spread it around with a flat blade
screwdriver or something similar. I fill the areas of both gaskets where they
meet the intake side gaskets with a blob of sealer. I immediately set the intake
in position and try to get it aligned going straight down with installation. I
install the four corner bolts and make sure everything is aligned and that the
gaskets are still in place. Insert remaining bolts and tighten snugly all
around. Inspect gaskets again, and begin torque sequence. All surfaces must be
free of oil and crud brefore starting (clean).

I've never had a gasket leak using above method. I use both rubber and cork,
but I prefer cork.

I've read on this list many other methods, and all make sense. I think the main
thing when using gaskets is to check frequently to make sure they are still in
place before you get to the torqueing of the bolts sequence.

Good luck.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:02:08 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Plugs for 302

Brian S. writes: >>I finally have the 302 heads bolted to my 351W. Now I have
a
problem...The spark plus hole are too big. By that I mean that the plugs
from the 351W heads are too small to fit the 302 plug holes. I've even
tried some other plusa I had around the shop (mostly from old British iron).
These heads are Rail type with out EGR. (circa ~1976?). Any suggestions as
to a plug to go and buy?

Try some F11Y Champions or the equivelent in your favorite brand.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:08:10 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400W Gary P. writes: >>and....it's differnt, a sleeper :-)

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:10:52 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Holley Problem

In a message dated 8/26/99 6:49:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:

> Seems like I got the check ball in the wrong hole once and the piston
> wouldn't come back up too so make sure it's together correctly.

I missed the original part of this thread, but if you are talking about the
accelerator pump binding on a Holley then I would suspect that the fuel bowl
gasket is not on correctly (this assumes that you already have eliminated all
other possible sources of mechanical binding). There is a passage that the
fuel must flow through when it leaves the accelerator pump. If the bowl
gasket is flipped it blocks that hole and makes the pump diaphram unable to
function. Recently, my LB was here on vacation with his 82 460 equipped
motor home which had a Holley OEM on it. He put a kit in it and then noticed
the accelerator pump wouldn't work. He was not sure whether it had ever
worked. We removed the carb, took the Accelerator pump apart, didn't really
find much then re-assembled; the pump seemed to work when the carb was dry.
We installed the carb and when the fuel level came up again...same deal. It
wasn't until be started to disassemble the fuel bowl that we realized he put
the gasket in wrong. It is usually the simply things that cause problems and
you generally will find it if you back-track and scrutinize the last thing
you changed. I hope this helps.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:27:58 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Plat plugs

Going right along with all that, don't use resistor plugs, get heli wound,
wire plug wires like the motorcraft 9mm jobbies and use non-resistor plugs
for better spark intensity and duration. I've been told (by an automotive
instructor) that it doesn't matter but stop and think about it, the spark
doesn't just "jump" now days, it "flows" for a period of time. Even on
points ignition the dual point setup was designed to increase the spark
duration.

The explaination was this: When the voltage reaches a certain point at the
electrode it's going to jump across no matter what the resistance of the
electrode itself but......

If there is duration then the resistance within the core of the electrode
will affect the "intensity" or power of the spark due to amperage loss due
to voltage drop in the electrode itself. The heli wound, wire type plug
wire cancels electric signal by the same method as a choke in a speaker
system by cross induction (my way of saying it, I'm not an electrician :-))
so amperage is not affected and thus voltage at the electrode is as high as
possible which is what gives you the intensity you want. The spark seems to
be quick to our eyes but from the perspective of the speed of electrons, the
spark duration time is very long and many changes in power and intensity can
occur during this cycle depending on conditions such as cylinder pressure
and plug resistance and gap size as well as the ability of the coil to
provide the duration of spark needed without collapsing, shorting or
inductive interferance of some kind killing the spark before it's time. The
ignition module has a lot to do with this as well. The higher the energy of
the system the more likely one of these problems will occur at some speed,
usually at higher speeds whare all the factors come together to reduce spark
efficiency: cylinder pressure is at it's highest, spark generation time is
at it's lowest and coil saturation time is at it's lowest etc.. (one reason
they use multiple coils now)

Before someone chews me out.....Wattage iw really what we are talking about
here. Wattage is the way to measure the actual intensity of the spark and
this is a function of both ampearage and voltage and these affect each other
to produce what is called line loss etc.. so resistance anywere in the
system, in the wires or in the plugs, will decrease spark intensity no
matter what the salesman tries to tell you and platinum plugs have more
resistance than copper electrode plugs.....:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > a part he felt you didn't need. Anyway he put a set of
> platinum plugs in
> > his personal vehicle to test them. He kept meticulous
> record of mileage
> > (he's that kind of guy) and realized a 1-3 mpg drop with
> the platinum
> plugs
> > with no other changes to the vehicle.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:37:49 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 400W Gary P. writes: >>and....it's differnt, a sl eeper :-)

Good one AZ I was going to pick on you for hitting the send button too soon
but.....:-)

For some reason the text didn't show up on my screen till I hit reply, it
got mixed in with the header stuff. Just learned a new trick today. I'll
always try a reply when I get what seems like an empty post :-) (deleted
quite a few without seeing the message :-))

Wonder if the subject line length had anything to do with it?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --


> -----Original Message-----
> From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com [mailto:am14 daimlerchrysler.com]
> Sent: 08/26/1999 8:08 AM
> To: 61-79-list Ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400W Gary P. writes: >>and....it's differnt, a
> sleeper :-)
> few hundred
> or so FTE guys that I really don't see that often. Azie Ardmore, Al.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 06:36:25 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume

> hi
>
> the formula for the volume of a cylinder is pi r squared h
> 3.1428 X radius X radius X height.
> always use 3.1428 for pi and be sure to use all the decimal places when
> dividing
> the diameter of the cylinder to find the radius. (4.23 diameter, radius is
> 2.115)
> it will make a difference.
.........

If memory serves correctly, and it usually does when numbers are
concerned, the value of pi is very close to 3.1415926535

I've no idea why I've memorized this value, but if it is wrong, would
somebody please post a more accurate value (so that I may update my memory
banks... hehe).

Danger



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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 07:45:42 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

> The other night, when I changed the intake I was in a hurry so I just used
> the cork gaskets (intake to block seal) provided with the intake gasket kit
> with a little high-temp silicone sealer. Today I found a fresh puddle of
> oil under it, I checked and, sure enough, the rear cork gasket had slid out
> in the center and is dumping oil out. Kind of depressing when I was excited
> about ELIMINATING the oil leak that the old intake had.

Don't feel bad at all, that's likely the most common thing you'll see on
any FE is the rear manifold seal hanging out like squirrel entrails
after a road killin'. An engine with a little crankcase pressure will
actually blow them out, PCV valve or none. They don't have much holding
them in at all.

There are a couple of ways to keep the cork seals positively in place.
Or you can eliminate them entirely with silicone. The most positive
way to hold them, if you decide to keep them, is to drill the block rail
in about 2-3 places and put in 1/8 in. dowels that stick up just enough
to penetrate the seal when fully compressed, and then follow the same
gluing procedure as you would if you didn't drill them. Another but
less positive way is to glue them down with silicone, an engine with
blow-by will still probably push them out some, but they have a much
better chance than just installing them without sealer.

I prefer the Ultra Black on anything that is exposed to oil. The
surface should be cleaned with brake cleaner until it squeaks when you
run your finger over it. Then run a small bead along the rail, let it
skin over, and stick the seals. Run another small bead along the top,
and smear it over the seal(this will stop the cork from acting as a wick
if exposed to a lot of oil under crankcase pressure). It's very
important to run a small bead along the edges of the head (on both sides
of the manifold gasket) from the valve cover rail to the block and fill
those corners with a good blob, where the manifold gaskets and end seals
meet. This is where a lot of folks drop the ball, and you'd be amazed
at how much oil will get past there. When you put the valve cover
gaskets on, put a little bit on the places where the manifold and heads
meet, and use thread sealer on the top valve cover bolts, on some heads
the center ones go all the way through and oil will work it's way up
through the bolt holes.

To eliminate the seals, do everything the same, but just put a thick
bead down that will be thick enough to replace the seals. An engine
with blow-by will still probably push some oil out somewhere, but you
have as good a chance as you can get that it won't.
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:45:24 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Henry must be angry with me.

I must have missed some of this discussion but after 4 tries I would be
looking for someting in the engine block or transmission mount faces or
dowels that might cause missalignment? If the housing was sound to begin
with and there was no deformation due to torqing the bolts this should not
have happened regardless of engine type or application.

What is the problem with the lakewood? Seems like I heard about a lakewood
problem before?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Got in - hit the key - started gave a couple click click
> clicks - then
> the 1/2 inch thick, cast iron 351/400M bellhousing split 1/8
> wide right done
> the middle.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 07:42:37 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume

From distant math recesses, I always divided 22 by 7 which equals
3.14285714285 and then some.

-----Original Message-----
From: Danger [mailto:danger csolutions.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 1999 8:36 AM
To: FTE List
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume




> hi
>
> the formula for the volume of a cylinder is pi r squared
h
> 3.1428 X radius X radius X height.
> always use 3.1428 for pi and be sure to use all the
decimal places when
> dividing
> the diameter of the cylinder to find the radius. (4.23
diameter, radius is
> 2.115)
> it will make a difference.
.........

If memory serves correctly, and it usually does when
numbers are
concerned, the value of pi is very close to 3.1415926535

I've no idea why I've memorized this value, but if it is
wrong, would
somebody please post a more accurate value (so that I may
update my memory
banks... hehe).

Danger



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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:56:48 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume

I usually remember the basic stuff and do it the long way, as someone else
said, Pi is easier for me to remember because it has a more universal
application than the constant someone is preaching.....:-)

I remember 3.1416 which is plenty close enough for anything I do including
CNC work at 20 millionths resolution to give me reliable plus or minus 1
tenth results, day in, day out :-)

While, in theory, a good programmer always uses doubles in his math and
rounds only at the last itteration of a sequence for best accuracy I fail to
see the necessity here?

Virtually eveyone on this list has access to a spreadsheet on his computer
so once you put the variables and constants into the formulas you forget
about them eh? I don't use my head to calculate anything anymore....that's
why I build spreadsheets :-) You look these values up in the help screens,
type them in and forget them :-) When I need to do compound angles I get
the book out, study it, build the formula, put it back in the drawer and
forget everything I just learned....:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> If memory serves correctly, and it usually does when numbers are
> concerned, the value of pi is very close to 3.1415926535
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:57:27 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume

In a message dated 8/26/99 8:49:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
DJacobs northland-elec.com writes:

> From distant math recesses, I always divided 22 by 7 which equals
> 3.14285714285 and then some.
>
That's close but pi is usually considered to be 3.1415927 (when rounded to 8
places for a caluculator). All of this discussion about cylinder volume has
left me confused. Does anybody have the formula to "end-all-formulas" so
that I can tuck it away and forget it again?

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee


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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:59:39 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume

It's based on radian math which is what Excel uses but I'm not even going to
strain my brain right now to get into that......:-) Never heard 22/7??

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> From distant math recesses, I always divided 22 by 7 which equals
> 3.14285714285 and then some.

> concerned, the value of pi is very close to 3.1415926535
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:08:02 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Differential gears

> go ahead
> and spin the tire 10 times. This will spin your pinion say 16.2 times
> (or whatever). Multiply by 2 if you're just spinning one tire
> (example=32.4). Then divide by 10 (example=3.24).

Why not just divide by 5, or spin the wheel 20 times instead of 10 ? Sorry,
always lookin for easy ways out of math ... :)

> Look up the closest
> available ratio for your gear set. Ford makes a 3.25 so that would be a
> good guess in this example.

Funny how you never get exact isn't it ? But then that's why you're
eyeballin it right ?


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:09:18 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: NOS Stuff

> Been thinking of a good vanity plate for the truck "NOSTRUK" hehehehe
> whadda ya think??
> Nuke GM would atract too many keys here in chebby country.
>

I know this was meant to be a personal message, but I'm gonna horn in anyway
:P

Anyway you might stop and think about what else NOS stands for ... (Nitrous
for instance) ... you want people tryin to race you all the time ?? :)


Just something to think about.


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 09:31:16 EDT
From: Hoover663 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - list

Does anyone know I good parts place for older cars I have a 1978 Ford
Ranchero500, and I know it is not totally a truck but it is part truck, so
can anybody help me? Thanks


Hoover663 aol.com
1978 Ford Ranchero500
5.0L V8 302
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:37:25 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - gasket glue

>>I'm surprised nobody on this list has mentioned that Steve Christ and
Felpro both suggest to use non-hardening gasket cement to glue the cork into
place.

There used to be some stuff called "Coppercote" that I liked to use for this
type of application. I also like to use "Indianhead" black gasket glue in
some instances, like water pumps. It is not nonhardening, though. It makes a
good sealer for bolts. I prefer the rubber or neoprene gaskets over cork,
but sometimes cork is all you can get. Cork will eventually deteriorate and
come apart, leaving you with only glue and air in the crack. Just MHO on
gaskets.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 07:45:09 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Henry must be angry with me.

> What is the problem with the lakewood? Seems like I heard about a
lakewood
> problem before?
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
.......

The Lakewood instructions for the 390 bell housing said to remove and
use the shift lever pivot bracket from the stock housing. There was a small
problem in the fact that the bolts or rivets holding the bracket must not
extend beyond the trans mating surface, and there was no tapered
counter-bore in the Lakewood housing to allow for this which meant drilling
would be required. The opening for the pivot lever dust boot was much larger
than the stock bell housing also.
It was after noticing these two small problems when thoughts of "what
else is wrong" that I returned the Lakewood housing and suffered shipping
costs & used the FoMoCo housing.


Danger


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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:48:56 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cid equations

>>The easiest formula that I know of is: BORE X BORE X STROKE X No. of cyl X
.7854. Try it, it works every time!

George's equation has been confirmed. The .7854 is pi divided by 4. The 4
comes from the diameter being equal to twice the radius. in George's
equation, you multiply the bore (diameter) by the bore which is the same as
multiplying twice the radius by twice the radius. Those two twices (run that
through your spell checker) is where the four comes from. 4 times .7854
equals 3.1416 which is the approximate value if pi.

Now if wish will retype this, it might make sense.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:57:26 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - platinum plugs

>>and realized a 1-3 mpg drop with the platinum plugs
with no other changes to the vehicle.

Any clue as to why the drop? Shouldn't plats run in the same heat range? I
have Autolite plats in the Towncar and to be honest, I couldn't tell any
difference in performance or mileage. I pulled the plats in my son's Chebbie
a couple of weeks ago. They have about 25K miles on them and still gap like
they did when I installed them. ????????

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 09:58:40 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume

It's very simple and has already been stated:

"^" means to the power of
"*" means times
"/" means divided by

(Cyl Dia / 2)^2 * Pi which is 3.1416 = area of piston top or cyl

(cyl dia / 2)^2 * pi * stroke = one cylinder swept volume

(cyl dia /2)62 * Pi * stroke * no of cyls = engine swept volume

So in the case of a 400 ci it would be:

(4/2)^2*3.141592654*4*8= total swept volume or 402.1238597 cuin :-)

or generically: pi(r)^2*H*N=vol

BTW, my calculator says Pi = 3.141592654 which is the number I used above
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> left me confused. Does anybody have the formula to
> "end-all-formulas" so
> that I can tuck it away and forget it again?
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 10:06:42 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: ratio check

This spinning the tire 10 times sounds easy enough, but just try to
remember how many times each one spins while you are doing it is easier
said than done. I feel the one wheel off the ground, tire spin twice is
best. If you have a chart of ratios then it is easy to distinguish between
3.08 (just over 3 turns), 3.23 (just shy of 3 1/4 turns), 3.31 (just over 3
1/4 turns) 3.54 (just past 3 1/2 turns), 3.73 (3 3/4 turns), 3.90 (just shy
of 4 turns), 4.11 (just over 4 turns), 4.56 (just over 4 1/2 turns).

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Audi 4000CS Quattro - DEAD
IsuzuG prodigy.net

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 10:09:19 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Henry must be angry with me.

wait a minute! 390? I thought we were talking 429/460?

I should think someone sells boots to fit the lakewood? JEGGS, Summit, PAW?

You have tried 4 different bell housings? or 4 attempts with the same one?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> The Lakewood instructions for the 390 bell housing said

> would be required. The opening for the pivot lever dust boot
> was much larger
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 10:14:20 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - platinum plugs

This is the primary advantage of platinum plugs, longevity and resistance to
fouling but as mentioned you need a powerfull ignition system to overcome
the attendant resistance to get a good hot spark. Newer cars have this as
Jim said, roughly post 93 and perhaps some earlier as well :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> a couple of weeks ago. They have about 25K miles on them and
> still gap like
> they did when I installed them. ????????
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 07:20:23 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Engine building question

Actually the M series blocks cast in the Michigan plant prior to March 77
are prone to cracks in the lifter valley due to core shifting during
casting. It wasn't an issue with the Cs.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: George W. Selby, III
To: 61-79-List (E-mail)
Date: Monday, August 23, 1999 8:55 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Engine building question


>I, too, have heard not to bore some of the Cleveland series, but what I
>heard was not to bore a 351M or 400 if it was a block built before somtime
>in 1977 I believe. Something about core shift and weak thin water jackets
>that tended to crack. I don't know if this applies to the 351C.



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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:27:12 -0600
From: "JT Kelly"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Holley Problem

What you could do is go to a swap meet and look for a Holley that would pass visual inspection. Rebuild that and see how she runs and if you would rather run a Carter just swap them before an ispection.

JT
- --

On Wed, 25 Aug 1999 19:57:35 J.S.H. wrote:
>I have a 84 f-250 with a Holley-Motorcraft 4bbl.
>Rebuilt the carb and now the accelerator pump sticks,
>the lever won't budge.
>Works fine off the truck and works fine for a while
>on the truck. Linkage works freely
> Had the Carter off of my 76 on it and it ran beautiful.
>Would put a Carter on the 84,but it won't pass visual
>smog inspection with out #$* Holley on it.
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Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 10:34:25 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: ratio check

Exactly! Is it really that important to know precisely in any case? I put
a chalk mark on both the tire and driveshaft and also a mark on the diff
housing or use landmarks for pointers. The only distinction which would be
hard to get is 3.00 and 3.08 or 3.27 and 3.25 or 4.11 and 4.10 all of which
were used by ford at one time or another but for referance for tire
calculations etc. is it that important?

If you really need to know you can get the numbers off the ring gear
periphery and they will look something like: 9:39 or 1035 or 10-35 or you
can have the vin decoded by ford for the exact numbers.

Or you could put a degree wheel on the tire, rotate the drive shaft x full
rotations for x degrees of tire rotation and do the math if you really must
know exactly :-)

The Key is to remember that if you jack up only one wheel you must calculate
two rotations of the tire and this is by far the best way since there is no
guarantee you can keep both tires moving exactly together with both off the
ground so your calculations could be made on inaccurate data in that case.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> said than done. I feel the one wheel off the ground, tire
> spin twice is
> best.
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 10:45:47 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Radio

Josh K. writes: >>I liked the stock radio, and really would like to keep things
as stock as
possible, but, if a completely new stereo is unavoidable, does anyone
have a reccomendation on what would be the best replacement?

Give Larry Boden of Speedometer Service(or something like that) in Atlanta a
call 800-241-2385 and tell him your delima. If he can't/won't help you out,
ask him to recommend some other facility. I've never used him, but I understand
he does Fords Service and warranty work on radios and Speedos, so he probably
has what it takes to make it like new.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 09:54:38 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: cylinder volume

> > From distant math recesses, I always divided 22 by 7 which equals
> > 3.14285714285 and then some.
> >
> That's close but pi is usually considered to be 3.1415927 (when
> rounded to 8
> places for a caluculator).

22/7 is an approximation that works out fairly well if you are doing
fractions and trying to do them in your head ... that's the only use I've
found for that particular bit of trivia ...



> All of this discussion about
> cylinder volume has
> left me confused. Does anybody have the formula to
> "end-all-formulas" so
> that I can tuck it away and forget it again?
>

The thing that kills me is everyone's sayin the same thing! It always comes
down to the same stuff, someone mentioned using the radius squared and be
sure you divide by two, why mess with that, just use the bore over 4 ...
anyway the easiest I've seen come down so far has been with pi/4 figured
already, but since I can never remember it, I'll always probably do this :


Bore x Bore x Pi / 4 * Stroke * no. cylinders


Its easy to "derive" and it uses the numbers listed on the engine specs in
front of you.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 09:58:02 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - gasket glue

> There used to be some stuff called "Coppercote" that I liked to

I use this stuff on the thermostat housings, keeps the gasket glued in place
which holds the thermostat in pretty well. And with the housings being
aluminum and subject to pitting, it just makes me feel better.


> type of application. I also like to use "Indianhead" black gasket glue in
> some instances, like water pumps. It is not nonhardening,
> though. It makes a
> good sealer for bolts.

Dad has some of this stuff, don't remember the exact name of it, but it does
the same stuff, goey as all get out and a pain in the butt, but it does glue
stuff.

> I prefer the rubber or neoprene gaskets over cork,
> but sometimes cork is all you can get. Cork will eventually
> deteriorate and
> come apart, leaving you with only glue and air in the crack.

I'm more of a cork guy myself, especially for valve cover and oil pan
gaskets. I'm still fighting with my truck trying to get the oil pan sealed
up completely (rubber gaskets after the rebuild) ... hopefully one more trip
under there will get it ...

it keeps getting my chrome all dirty!


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 10:58:07 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Need a radio

Josh Keady wrote:
>
> Been lurking on this list for a while, and find it very entertaining and
> educational. I haven't needed anything major during the minor
> restoration of my '77 F-350, so until now, I haven't needed to post
> anything. But as I said... until now.
>
> This truck had been sitting a while, and unfortunately, water got in
> around the windshield and did some damage to various components under the
> dash, including the radio. I don't know if this type of radio was an
> option on this truck or not (AM/FM w/ door panel speakers), but I can't
> seem to find a stock replacement for this darn thing! I've posted this
> problem to several discussion groups and have yet to come up with an
> answer other than, "Buy a brand new radio."
>
> I liked the stock radio, and really would like to keep things as stock as
> possible, but, if a completely new stereo is unavoidable, does anyone
> have a reccomendation on what would be the best replacement?
>
> Thanks guys (and gals) for making this list so great,
>

I just picked up 78 and 79 broncos I am combining into one for
strictly trail use. The 78 is an XLT and has the factory AM/FM in it. I
have no idea if it works. You can have it, but I don't know when I'll
get it out.

OX
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 07:54:54 -0700
From: "James Krehmke"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding

I made a power brake bleeder by attaching one of the harbor Freight
air-powered vacuum pumps to the reservoir of my Mity-Vac.

It got pockets of air out of my motorcycle brakes that had been about
impossible to remove.

- -jwk-

- -----Original Message-----
From: Danger
To: FTE List
Date: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 11:15 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding


>> Help... While doing my frame-off I replaced all of the lines and
hydraulic
>> components and am having difficulty getting the air out of the back
lines.
>> It is probably trapped in the loop around the pumpkin. My friend
suggests
>> jacking the back way up to try to get the air pocket to run to the wheel.
>> Do you have any miracle suggestions?
>> Brad
>..........
>
> The best way to bleed the brakes that I'm aware of is to use a
pneumatic
>power brake bleeder (hand pump version is cheaper) with large reservoir (at
>least half gallon) and force the fluid through without taking the risk of
>air entering the system.
> I would image the next best way would be to use a small hand held
>vacuum pump (Mighty Vac) and connect it to the bleeder valve via a tight
>fitting transparent hose and draw the fluid out the bleeder rather than
push
>from the master cylinder. Just be careful & make sure the master cylinder
>doesn't get low on fluid and allow air to enter the system.
> Then there's the old "my leg is getting tired" method which involves an
>assistant which I wouldn't recommend unless you've only replaced the
>calipers or cylinders and not the entire length of brake line.
>
> I've used all three methods in the past, but I've finally bought a hand
>pump pneumatic version with large reservoir and it's produced amazing
>results. There was less than a .5% of a difference in the left-right brake
>balance the last time I took my truck in for emissions & inspection.
>
>
>Danger
>
>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 10:04:49 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - platinum plugs

> >>and realized a 1-3 mpg drop with the platinum plugs
> with no other changes to the vehicle.
>
> Any clue as to why the drop? Shouldn't plats run in the same
> heat range?

They will be the same heat range, but won't spark as well on a conventional
ignition because the power isn't there ...


> have Autolite plats in the Towncar and to be honest, I couldn't tell any
> difference in performance or mileage. I pulled the plats in my
> son's Chebbie
> a couple of weeks ago. They have about 25K miles on them and
> still gap like
> they did when I installed them. ????????
>

using the logic above, switching to the other plugs (your town car likely
had plats from the factory, depending on its year) you may notice an
increase in power. Switching to regular plugs also means you can set the
gap a touch wider in the end if your car was originally designed to have
plats in it. I pulled one of the plats out of my 'stang last weekend, it
was about .05 over its stock gap after 40,000 miles, which I guess isnt too
bad, but since I get fidgety and will probably be checking them every few
months, I'll probably go with the regular Autolites when I upgrade the
wires.

On my truck I'll also go with the stock plug, but will be moving shortly to
the elec. ignition and plan to run the big cap and FMS plug wires to see if
I can't get the max. efficiencey and coolest look from them :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 10:06:36 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - list

> Does anyone know I good parts place for older cars I have a 1978 Ford
> Ranchero500, and I know it is not totally a truck but it is part
> truck, so
> can anybody help me? Thanks
>

What parts are you looking for exactly ? AutoKrafters might be a good place
to start (www.auto-krafters.com) as I think they have some ranchero only
parts. Most of the rest of your "truck" is the same as the
tbird/cougar/elite of the same/similar years ... we have a 70 Ranchero that
shares its parts with the Torino/Fairlane, so I know there are some things
that are unique, but most things can be found in the car realm ...

heck even the front seat in ours is out of a torino (why else would there be
ash trays on the back of it?)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 11:17:39 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Y block parts

Jeff writes: >>Anybody have sources for original style intake and
exhaust manifolds? I'm not knowledgable enough to
know if there are different versions for different years.
It's on my '64 F100 CrewCab.

Don't know about sources for the old Y blocks, but I do know that the '57 and
later car exhaust manifolds are larger internally and allow a bit better
breathing. IMHO the Y needs all the help it can get in the breathing area for
pulling-racing-or just tooling down the blvd. I liked them until I got an FE.
I still have one (312) in an old(very old) Bueller Turbocraft boat. Still runs
pretty good, too.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 08:20:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake Bleeding (pressure bleeder)

Danger wrote:
> I've used all three methods in the past, but I've finally bought
> a hand pump pneumatic version with large reservoir and it's
> produced amazing results.

Hey, I need one of these! Where did you get it? How much did it
cost? What is the reservoir made of? Could it be converted to be
used with a compressor by adding a metal valve stem and pressure
gauge? How does the part that clamps on the MC fit? Does it leak
around the edges? Do you know the brand name?

Sorry for all the questions, but I have been fighting my braking
problems for almost a year now. I have replaced everything
except the calipers and those will be new when I get my front
axle back together. I can barely stop the truck. All the
symptoms point to air trapped somewhere. I think you are the
first person to mention having his own pressure bleeder.

I tried to have it done at a tire shop. I couldn't convince the
guy he had to pull the pin on the proportioning valve to bypass
the metering valve. No fluid would come out of the calipers so
he went and got another guy to pump the pedal.

I really need to be able to do this myself.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 09:52:35 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Henry must be angry with me.

> wait a minute! 390? I thought we were talking 429/460?
>
.......

You asked earlier about problems with a Lakewood bell housing, and I'd
noticed a few so I responded. There are two threads that I know of
concerning the Lakewood bell housing. One for a 390/428 (Lakewood shipped
back, FoMoCo used), and one for a 429/460 (Henry must be angry & multiple....


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