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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #301
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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, August 25 1999 Volume 03 : Number 301



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Gear ratio
FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
RE: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
FTE 61-79 - What spark plug for Frankenford?
RE: FTE 61-79 - What spark plug for Frankenford?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors
RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 temp sending unit
RE: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors
RE: FTE 61-79 - 429/460 bolt patterns.
Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
RE: FTE 61-79 - 400W
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Block Availability
RE: FTE 61-79 - 1157-2057
RE: FTE 61-79 - 1157-2057
Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
Re: FTE 61-79 - 429/460 bolt patterns.
Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
RE: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Block Availability
FTE 61-79 - FTE 66 F1 SLOW SHIFTING TRANS.
FTE 61-79 - Fw: FTE 61-79 - 66 F1 SLOW SHIFTING TRANS.
RE: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 66 F1 SLOW SHIFTING TRANS.
FTE 61-79 - Need a radio
FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Block Availability
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Block Availability
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Block Availability
FTE 61-79 - Re 429/460 bellhousing patterns
FTE 61-79 - Re: NOS Stuff
Re: FTE 61-79 - What spark plug for Frankenford?
Re: FTE 61-79 - What spark plug for Frankenford?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding
RE: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding
RE: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
RE: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding
FTE 61-79 - 50 Wt Gear Oil
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding
FTE 61-79 - Henry must be angry with me.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: NOS Stuff
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: NOS Stuff
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: NOS Stuff
FTE 61-79 - 64 Crewcab Tire Saga
Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 10:40:12 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Gear ratio

> the tire size
> dictates the effective ratio.
> >

This is efffective ratio though, slightly different in that 1 turn of the
rim is still 1 turn of the tire is still the same number of turns of the
drive shaft. Effective compares stock tires with the ones you have, not the
actual gearing, so this will only apply when the tires are on the ground and
we're talking distance. As long as the tire is securely mounted on the rim,
and the rim bolted to the axle, then they will always turn in a 1:1 ratio
...

> The previous
> owner drove it around with the transfer case in 4 hi and just
> ran on the front wheels.
>

Maybe we know why now ? :) I hope you get it sorted out ...


Maybe you should check the front diff and see how close they are ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 09:11:43 PDT
From: "MARTY COLMAN"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

I need some advise on the best method of sealing my intake. It's a 390 4v
in a 73 F100, the intake is a C5AE style with the bigger runners (if that
makes a difference).

The other night, when I changed the intake I was in a hurry so I just used
the cork gaskets (intake to block seal) provided with the intake gasket kit
with a little high-temp silicone sealer. Today I found a fresh puddle of
oil under it, I checked and, sure enough, the rear cork gasket had slid out
in the center and is dumping oil out. Kind of depressing when I was excited
about ELIMINATING the oil leak that the old intake had.

I have heard of many different ways to do this seal, some suggest using only
a bead of silicone, others say cork, others say find a rubber one. What has
worked best in your experiences? I want to only have to do this one more
time - it's no fun to remove a FE intake.

Thanks

Marty Colman


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 11:22:15 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

> I need some advise on the best method of sealing my intake.
> It's a 390 4v
> in a 73 F100, the intake is a C5AE style with the bigger runners
> (if that
> makes a difference).
>

When I did the rebuild on my 390, I put the exact same intake on and
everything ... what I did was set the head-manifold gaskets in place, then
on the block (front and rear) I put down a bead of RTV (red stuff, can get
the specs on it if you need them). This bead I let cure overnight, then the
next day I put another bead on it, then I used an engine hoist to set the
intake down slowly ... no signs of leakage yet and its been about 4 months,
along with a few thousand miles (5?).


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 11:23:40 -0500
From: "Smith, Brian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - What spark plug for Frankenford?

Listers,
I finally have the 302 heads bolted to my 351W. Now I have a
problem...The spark plus hole are too big. By that I mean that the plugs
from the 351W heads are too small to fit the 302 plug holes. I've even
tried some other plusa I had around the shop (mostly from old British iron).
These heads are Rail type with out EGR. (circa ~1976?). Any suggestions as
to a plug to go and buy?

Brian H. Smith
Lake Charles, LA
1967 F100 SWB
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 11:31:34 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - What spark plug for Frankenford?

> I finally have the 302 heads bolted to my 351W. Now I have a
> problem...The spark plus hole are too big. By that I mean that the plugs
> from the 351W heads are too small to fit the 302 plug holes. I've even
> tried some other plusa I had around the shop (mostly from old
> British iron).
> These heads are Rail type with out EGR. (circa ~1976?). Any
> suggestions as
> to a plug to go and buy?
>

Just go to the parts guy and ask for plugs that fit a mid 70's 302, there
should only be one or two available across all the vehicle lines ... likely
you just need the big plug, since plugs are either big or small
(generalization,there are other sizes outside of the automotive realm, and a
few within)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:37:00 -0800
From: "Matthew Schumacher"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors

Clare,

I would not buy a motor that old from a rebuild house like that. I made
that mistake about 2 months ago with my 390 and have had problems
since.

The new block I got has problems with one of the spark plugs seating
right, it has about 4-6 heli coils in it. I stripped a bolt hole on my
block while installing my intake manifold because they didn't check the
theads. (I was using a tork wrench at about 10 lbs) So I had to take a
drill to my "new" block and fix it myself. The valves aren't nearly as
quiet as they should be, but the aren't really bad either.

Now, I gave them my good block and they gave me this crappy one, when it
comes time to rebuild again I won't use the one they gave me, I'm going
to search and fine a new one to take to the machine shop.

Speaking of which, do you all think that a 390 will be hard to come buy
in 5-6 years? Should I buy a 390 block now?

schu


You Wrote:

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 11:46:20 -0700
From: Clare Waterman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors

Hi guys- ive been out of the loop for a bit as i've moved from north
carolina to san diego and started a new job.

so i am looking around to replace my motor- kragen auto parts has 390's
for
~$1000 they come from Bonded with a 12/12 warantee. does anyone have
experience with motors from them?

also-

i remember back a while i read a thread that mentioned an all ford truck
junkyard in the san diego area odes anyone have info onthis?

thsanks


clare
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 12:34:58 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 temp sending unit

I believe mine is on the block right above the timing cover. It's not very
big, about 7/8" hex I think and sticks out about 1". There should only be
two senders on the whole engine so it's pretty easy to find, just follow the
small red or green wires or black maybe and the end will stop at a sender
:-)

My oil sender is on the gallery plug behind the intake manifold on top of
the lifter gallery area. There is another plug on the side of the block too
I believe which can be tapped but they are usually in the rear on this
engine.

Before removing the sender try crimping (take it off the pin first) the cap
(plug) on the sender wire to give it a better connection. Be surprised how
often this fixes a "faulty" sender :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > Can someone point me in the right direction to the temp
> sending unit on
> > my 77 F150 460? My temp guage is not working, and I
> thought I'd start
> > there. Anybody have any other hints?
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 11:39:45 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors

> Speaking of which, do you all think that a 390 will be hard to come buy
> in 5-6 years? Should I buy a 390 block now?
>
The block is the same on the 360's and 390's as they both use the same bore,
the crank, rods, and pistons however are different. If you're really
worried about it I can fix you up with a 360 that should be a good block as
far as I know ( I used a 390 on my rebuild )


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 12:39:03 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 429/460 bolt patterns.

Long as we're on this:

351M/400 and 429/460, all vintages and applications take the big block
transmission pattern

302, 351W, 300 I6, 351C, 289 (with one exception) and a few others take the
small block pattern

FE's and other Y blocks have their own pattern

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> one off a 460
> it won't bolt up to a 429. Correct me if I'm wrong..
>
> Naw... They are the same also.
>
> Azie
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 11:07:32 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

> I have heard of many different ways to do this seal, some suggest using
only
> a bead of silicone, others say cork, others say find a rubber one. What
has
> worked best in your experiences? I want to only have to do this one more
> time - it's no fun to remove a FE intake.
>
> Thanks
>
> Marty Colman
.........

I used contact cement and glued the cork to the block. Generous amounts
of silicone in the corners where the gaskets interlock are a must. I'm sure
there are those who have other methods, but this is how I would do it if I
had to again.

Danger


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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 13:18:37 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 400W

Yeah, I get the drift now :-) I just signed on the other day and came into
the middle of some of these discussions :-)

Trimming the 400 crank for the 351W application sounds like a lot of work
and the suggestion that a lathe interrupted cut won't work rings true. I
would attempt to find someone to grind the material off since the cut would
have to be pretty light (and thus take a long time) to prevent damaging the
lathe hardware or knocking the crank out of the centers and tearing up the
lathe bed and your feet as well :-(

You can cut odd shapes on a lathe but the surface finish on crank weights is
very hard and tough so getting past the "skin" might be expensive due to
tool breakage etc.. I've heard of the 360 rod for this application too and
it's purpose is to put the piston at the right relationship to the fly
weights among other things for the least amount of modification to the
piston skirts and crank and still use a stock or close to stock piston
configuration as I recall? Course there are limits on how high you can set
the piston pin in the piston so this may be a factor as well since the deck
height on the 335 series and 351w series is quite a bit different.

Let's see, why would we want to do this?

Lighter over all weight for same displacement
smaller foot print
Wet intake
Uses all small block accessories
Uses all small block power goodies
bolts to small block trannys
and....it's differnt, a sleeper :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Ford didn't, but I plan to, by installing a 400 crank and
> pistons in one.
>
> Azie
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 13:19:28 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Block Availability

In a message dated 8/25/99 12:37:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, schu 7x.com
writes:

>
> Speaking of which, do you all think that a 390 will be hard to come buy
> in 5-6 years? Should I buy a 390 block now?
>

Yes you had better buy one immediately....there is some crazy FE nut going
around buying up everything he can get his hands on....I won't mention any
names either, but.....rumor has it that he is thinking about scarfing up all
the good NOS stuff too.....

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 13:20:34 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 1157-2057

isn't the 2057 Halogen?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> >What's the difference between a 2057na and a 1157na bulb.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 10:27:35 -0700
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 1157-2057

No.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Peters, Gary (G.R.) [mailto:gpeters3 visteon.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 10:21 AM
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 1157-2057


isn't the 2057 Halogen?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> >What's the difference between a 2057na and a 1157na bulb.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 13:29:54 -0400
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

Now is a good time to throw something else in there. All these people with
the rear main seal problems and others should keep in mind. Let the engine
breath!!! When you work on it you should always make sure that you have a
EGR valve there somewhere. Just an open breather isn't enough with highway
driving. That means with other than the stock plate under the carb get a
vacume port and do it or the expanding gas and the leak by from the pistons
will blow out the seals every time.

$.02 more
GA
- ----- Original Message -----
From: William S. Hart
To:
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 12:22 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake


> > I need some advise on the best method of sealing my intake.
> > It's a 390 4v
> > in a 73 F100, the intake is a C5AE style with the bigger runners
> > (if that
> > makes a difference).
> >
>
> When I did the rebuild on my 390, I put the exact same intake on and
> everything ... what I did was set the head-manifold gaskets in place, then
> on the block (front and rear) I put down a bead of RTV (red stuff, can get
> the specs on it if you need them). This bead I let cure overnight, then
the
> next day I put another bead on it, then I used an engine hoist to set the
> intake down slowly ... no signs of leakage yet and its been about 4
months,
> along with a few thousand miles (5?).
>
>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
> 96 Mustang GT 4.6L
> 73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 13:35:49 -0400
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 429/460 bolt patterns.

Yep he is right...
GA
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Peters, Gary (G.R.)
To:
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 12:39 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 429/460 bolt patterns.


> Long as we're on this:
>
> 351M/400 and 429/460, all vintages and applications take the big block
> transmission pattern
>
> 302, 351W, 300 I6, 351C, 289 (with one exception) and a few others take
the
> small block pattern
>
> FE's and other Y blocks have their own pattern
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
> --
>
> > one off a 460
> > it won't bolt up to a 429. Correct me if I'm wrong..
> >
> > Naw... They are the same also.
> >
> > Azie
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 10:47:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

Gerald wrote:
> Now is a good time to throw something else in there. All these people with
> the rear main seal problems and others should keep in mind. Let the engine
> breath!!! When you work on it you should always make sure that you have a
> EGR valve there somewhere. Just an open breather isn't enough with highway
> driving. That means with other than the stock plate under the carb get a
> vacume port and do it or the expanding gas and the leak by from the pistons
> will blow out the seals every time.

Whoops! Good idea, wrong acronym. Gerald really wants everyone to
use a PCV valve. Wish's finger problem is spreading :-)
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 13:48:21 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

We're actually talking PCV here right? EGR has no impact on CCP I know of?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Now is a good time to throw something else in there. All
> these people with
> the rear main seal problems and others should keep in mind.
> Let the engine
> breath!!! When you work on it you should always make sure
> that you have a
> EGR valve there somewhere.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 14:13:57 -0400
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

I stand corrected.
Thanks,
GA
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Peters, Gary (G.R.)
To:
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 1:48 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake


> We're actually talking PCV here right? EGR has no impact on CCP I know
of?
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
> --
>
> > Now is a good time to throw something else in there. All
> > these people with
> > the rear main seal problems and others should keep in mind.
> > Let the engine
> > breath!!! When you work on it you should always make sure
> > that you have a
> > EGR valve there somewhere.
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 12:20:04 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Block Availability

> > Speaking of which, do you all think that a 390 will be hard to come buy
> > in 5-6 years? Should I buy a 390 block now?
..........

> Yes you had better buy one immediately....there is some crazy FE nut going
> around buying up everything he can get his hands on....I won't mention any
> names either, but.....rumor has it that he is thinking about scarfing up
all
> the good NOS stuff too.....
>
> Stock Man
.........

Hehe, that's pretty funny since I've just loaded a 460 which I'm trading
for a 390 4bbl. I've already got 2 of them now, I just wanted a spare that
was compatible.

Danger


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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 14:42:20 -0400
From: "David J. Turner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 66 F1 SLOW SHIFTING TRANS.

Thanks to Scott and Bill for your reply regarding transmission problems:
To Scott, you are correct, this is a Cruise-O-Matic. Some have referred
to this as a C6. I was never sure, I thought they might be the same thing.
Shows you how much I know!
I will check out the vacuum modulator and ignore the leak until it gets
worse.
Thanks again.

Dave Turner
66 F1 Shortbed Auto


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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 14:55:57 -0400
From: "David J. Turner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fw: FTE 61-79 - 66 F1 SLOW SHIFTING TRANS.

- -----Original Message-----
From: David J. Turner
To: 61-79 FORD LIST
Date: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 2:42 PM
Subject: FTE 66 F1 SLOW SHIFTING TRANS.


> Thanks to Scott and Bill for your reply regarding transmission problems:
> To Scott, you are correct, this is a Cruise-O-Matic. Some have referred
>to this as a C6. I was never sure, I thought they might be the same thing.
>Shows you how much I know!
> I will check out the vacuum modulator and ignore the leak until it gets
>worse.
Now I'm wondering, will a C6 interchange without a lot of modification?
Would this be an advantage over the Cruise-O-Matic?

> Thanks again.
>
- -Dave Turner
- -66 F1 Shortbed Auto


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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 14:05:31 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

> > EGR valve there somewhere. Just an open breather isn't enough
> with highway
> > driving.

> Whoops! Good idea, wrong acronym. Gerald really wants everyone to
> use a PCV valve. Wish's finger problem is spreading :-)


Whew, I was really freakin out there ... I wondered how the EGR could be so
important for seal life because a) it has very little to do with the actual
motor internally and b) they went for over half a centruy without it and
didn't have seals blowing out ....

Glad to see its just a "problem" ... or shoudl that be tlrjeol ??

:)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 12:37:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

Marty,

Similar to Wish, I used Hi-temp (Red) Permatex and tossed the cork
gaskets on my 390/Edelbrock Performer. Only I did it with one bead
all at once. Set the manifold on to see how much of a gap you need
to fill. I also cleaned all the surfaces the Permatex had to stick
to with laquer thinner and got it real dry before applying the
sillycone.

Just make sure you don't overdo it and have it oozing into your
motor.

Mine has over 5K miles and no leaks.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 12:34:04 -0700
From: "James Krehmke"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

Marty,

After you recover from your hernia, clean it all good and try installing
with only the gaskets to the intake. Leave out the end pieces and seal with
RTV. I have had excellent luck with this procedure on my Fords.

- -jwk-
- -----Original Message-----
From: MARTY COLMAN
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 9:20 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake


>
>I need some advise on the best method of sealing my intake. It's a 390 4v
>in a 73 F100, the intake is a C5AE style with the bigger runners (if that
>makes a difference).
>
>The other night, when I changed the intake I was in a hurry so I just used
>the cork gaskets (intake to block seal) provided with the intake gasket kit
>with a little high-temp silicone sealer. Today I found a fresh puddle of
>oil under it, I checked and, sure enough, the rear cork gasket had slid out
>in the center and is dumping oil out. Kind of depressing when I was
excited
>about ELIMINATING the oil leak that the old intake had.
>
>I have heard of many different ways to do this seal, some suggest using
only
>a bead of silicone, others say cork, others say find a rubber one. What
has
>worked best in your experiences? I want to only have to do this one more
>time - it's no fun to remove a FE intake.
>
>Thanks
>
>Marty Colman
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 17:00:33 -0400
From: "Ray Taschenberger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 66 F1 SLOW SHIFTING TRANS.

David, I drove a T Bird with that same tranny with same problems you
describe for about a year. We tore tranny down, and resealed it, never could
find what was causing the problem. Worked great after the first delayed cold
shift of the day. You may not have a modulator on that beast. Good luck,
ray

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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 99 14:31:05 -0700
From: Josh Keady
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Need a radio

Been lurking on this list for a while, and find it very entertaining and
educational. I haven't needed anything major during the minor
restoration of my '77 F-350, so until now, I haven't needed to post
anything. But as I said... until now.

This truck had been sitting a while, and unfortunately, water got in
around the windshield and did some damage to various components under the
dash, including the radio. I don't know if this type of radio was an
option on this truck or not (AM/FM w/ door panel speakers), but I can't
seem to find a stock replacement for this darn thing! I've posted this
problem to several discussion groups and have yet to come up with an
answer other than, "Buy a brand new radio."

I liked the stock radio, and really would like to keep things as stock as
possible, but, if a completely new stereo is unavoidable, does anyone
have a reccomendation on what would be the best replacement?

Thanks guys (and gals) for making this list so great,

Josh Keady
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Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:51:18 -0400
From: "Brad Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding

Help... While doing my frame-off I replaced all of the lines and hydraulic
components and am having difficulty getting the air out of the back lines.
It is probably trapped in the loop around the pumpkin. My friend suggests
jacking the back way up to try to get the air pocket to run to the wheel.
Do you have any miracle suggestions?
Brad

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 18:34:32 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Block Availability

ssshhh!!!!!!!!!!

don't tell everyone Thom!!!

stu
nuke gm!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu


At 01:19 PM 8/25/99 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 8/25/99 12:37:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, schu 7x.com
>writes:
>
>>
>> Speaking of which, do you all think that a 390 will be hard to come buy
>> in 5-6 years? Should I buy a 390 block now?
>>
>
>Yes you had better buy one immediately....there is some crazy FE nut going
>around buying up everything he can get his hands on....I won't mention any
>names either, but.....rumor has it that he is thinking about scarfing up all
>the good NOS stuff too.....
>
>Stock Man
>1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
>1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
>1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 19:43:39 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Block Availability

In a message dated 8/25/99 7:30:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
nukegm ford-trucks.com writes:

> ssshhh!!!!!!!!!!
>
> don't tell everyone Thom!!!
>
Right Stu.....MUMS the word.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 19:47:08 EDT
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Block Availability

There is plenty in the PEACH STATE...
GA


- ----Original Message Follows----
From: Stu Varner
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Block Availability
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 18:34:32 -0500
MIME-Version: 1.0
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ssshhh!!!!!!!!!!

don't tell everyone Thom!!!

stu
nuke gm!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu


At 01:19 PM 8/25/99 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 8/25/99 12:37:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, schu 7x.com
>writes:
>
>>
>> Speaking of which, do you all think that a 390 will be hard to come buy
>> in 5-6 years? Should I buy a 390 block now?
>>
>
>Yes you had better buy one immediately....there is some crazy FE nut going
>around buying up everything he can get his hands on....I won't mention any
>names either, but.....rumor has it that he is thinking about scarfing up
all
>the good NOS stuff too.....
>
>Stock Man
>1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
>1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
>1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 18:52:41 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re 429/460 bellhousing patterns

Actually the patterns for the 429 and 460 ARE the same. 351M/400M and
429/460 all share the same tranny bellhousing. (the only oddball out
there is the 351C which uses the smaller bellhousing like the 302).
swapping a 429 to a 460 (or vs/versa) is a direct bolt up. same for the
351M and 400M. To convert a 351M/400M to a 429 or 460 all one has to do
is bolt the motor up to the existing tranny and get a set of "conversion
mounts" to bolt the motor to the frame.
Laters. Danny

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 19:52:29 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: NOS Stuff

Stu:

I wanted to give you a little update on my engine project. I was able to
order some of the NOS stuff I needed. The cheapest cam I found so far was
$95. I think I'm going to pass for now. I did get a hell of a price on a
cam gear through from Southside. He wouldn't budge on the cam price, but he
was much higher anyway at $125. He had the best prices on everything else of
the other three suppliers that I tried. (Green Sales, MacDonalds and Miller).
Nobody has had the rod bearings I need :-(.....

I have also enlisted some friends in my project....One guy "volunteered"
to do some bead blasting for me. He is doing the intake and exhaust
manifolds and the side oil cover. I'm leaning towards having the Exhaust
"Jet Hot coated". It's clearly the best option but also the most expensive.
(any thoughts?) Another friend has "volunteered" to hone the block for me at
the shop where he works. Everything should be back in the garage on Friday
in time to spend some more quality time there.

Thom B.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 19:04:01 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - What spark plug for Frankenford?

Autolite 45's will fit your heads.


Jason



Smith, Brian wrote:
>
> Listers,
> I finally have the 302 heads bolted to my 351W. Now I have a
> problem...The spark plus hole are too big. By that I mean that the plugs
> from the 351W heads are too small to fit the 302 plug holes. I've even
> tried some other plusa I had around the shop (mostly from old British iron).
> These heads are Rail type with out EGR. (circa ~1976?). Any suggestions as
> to a plug to go and buy?
>
> Brian H. Smith
> Lake Charles, LA
> 1967 F100 SWB
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 20:21:29 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - What spark plug for Frankenford?

Autolite 45R is what you need. And dont let anyone trick you into platinum
or any of that hokey stuff. Regular resistor Autolites are the best plugs
you can get. Trust me on this one.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 17:49:08 -0700
From: "Hernandez, Anthony"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding

Brad Jones wrote

Help... While doing my frame-off I replaced all of the lines and hydraulic
components and am having difficulty getting the air out of the back lines.
It is probably trapped in the loop around the pumpkin. My friend suggests
jacking the back way up to try to get the air pocket to run to the wheel.
Do you have any miracle suggestions?
Brad>>

When I do a job like this I use a bleeder tank. The tank is just a jar with
a clear hose that is connnected to the top and then the end of the hose is
submerged in brake fluid inside the jar. Then all you do is open the
bleeder valve and go in the truck and pump the brake a few dozen times, go
out and tighten the bleeder valve again. What this does is let air out and
only fluid back in. I think if you just take an empty jar and stuck the end
of a bleeder hose submersed in some brake fluid (maybe 1" at bottom of jar
before you open the valve)and followed the same procedures you'd get good
results.

Anthony in Vista, CA
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 18:22:04 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors

:0) LOL. Do I have to say this.... You can pay me now or...... ;0).
Tom H

> ----------
> From: Clare Waterman[SMTP:waterman scripps.edu]
> Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 10:44 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors
>
>
>
> "Hogan, Tom" wrote:
>
> > I have a 3rd suggestion. Performance Automotive Wholesale (PAW) sells
> > complete 390 kits-- not assembled. Get one of their kits, the machine
> work
> > should be done and all checks made. If you don't feel confident putting
> it
> > together then find a good mechanic/machine shop to put it together for
> you.
>
> but the kits are expensive!!! i am on a budget!
>
> >
> >
> > BTW, the PAW catalog is about $5.00. BUY IT! It is better than the
> yellow
> > pages for finding parts that are available.
> >
> > Tom H.
> >
> >
> > > > so i am looking around to replace my motor- kragen auto parts has
> 390's
> > > for
> > > > ~$1000 they come from Bonded with a 12/12 warantee. does anyone
> have
> > > > experience with motors from them?
> > >
> > > No direct experience, but we have "kicked" around buying rebuilt
> > > motors here before -lots of horror stories to go around. Remember,
> > > you're buying someone elses problems. They are guarenteed for 12/12,
> > > but only the motor. You supply the labor. Someone posted about
> > > changing motors 3-4 times. No Thanks!
> > >
> > > I'd recommend:
> > >
> > > 1) Find a good machine shop, pull your motor and rebuild it. It
> > > will cost the same or less, and you'll have a MUCH better engine.
> > >
> > > 2) If you need to drive the truck while rebuilding, find a used
> > > running 360/390 from a wrecker. Install it, and then take your
> > > time on the rebuild. You'll learn all kinds of stuff, and you
> > > have the use of FTE as a nearly unlimited resource :-)
> > > When you're ready to install your rebuild, put the used engine
> > > in the classifieds. You may even get your money back out
> > > of it if people can listen to it run before purchasing.
> >
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>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 21:31:59 -0400
From: Huw Powell
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding

Pressure bleeder?

Brad Jones wrote:
>
> Help... While doing my frame-off I replaced all of the lines and hydraulic
> components and am having difficulty getting the air out of the back lines.
> It is probably trapped in the loop around the pumpkin. My friend suggests
> jacking the back way up to try to get the air pocket to run to the wheel.
> Do you have any miracle suggestions?
> Brad
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --
Huw Powell

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/

82 Audi Coupe; 84 4kq; 85 Coupe GT; 73 F250
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 18:42:24 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake

A mechanic friend of mine gave me his tips for using silicone.
1. Cleanliness is NOT optional. No dirt or oil. His favorite was brake
cleaner. Dissolves oil and evaporates completely. You know it's clean if a
clean finger draggs as you pull it accross the surface. If you hit oil it
will slip.
2. Let the silicone skin over before putting the parts together.
3. Let it dry overnite after assembly before hitting it with a hot oil bath
(starting the motor) see #1 above.

Some new car mfgs only use this stuff to glue their engines together (ok I
mean seal the gaps) and if done right can be difficult to disassemble later
(that's good in this case right?)

Tom H

> ----------
> From: draco pacifier.com[SMTP:draco pacifier.com]
> Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 3:37 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Cc: draco pacifier.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake
>
> Marty,
>
> Similar to Wish, I used Hi-temp (Red) Permatex and tossed the cork
> gaskets on my 390/Edelbrock Performer. Only I did it with one bead
> all at once. Set the manifold on to see how much of a gap you need
> to fill. I also cleaned all the surfaces the Permatex had to stick
> to with laquer thinner and got it real dry before applying the
> sillycone.
>
> Just make sure you don't overdo it and have it oozing into your
> motor.
>
> Mine has over 5K miles and no leaks.
>
>
> Mark in Southwest Washington
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
> --
> '74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 21:43:38 EDT
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding

He is so right....
TIP: Do the wheel closest to the master cyl. then the next one and so on
till you get to the rear most wheel which in my FoMoCo is the back passenger
wheel. Then go out and slipthemthere wheels.
Good Luck,
GA


- ----Original Message Follows----
From: "Hernandez, Anthony"
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
To: "'61-79-list ford-trucks.com'"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 17:49:08 -0700
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Brad Jones wrote

Help... While doing my frame-off I replaced all of the lines and hydraulic
components and am having difficulty getting the air out of the back lines.
It is probably trapped in the loop around the pumpkin. My friend suggests
jacking the back way up to try to get the air pocket to run to the wheel.
Do you have any miracle suggestions?
Brad>>

When I do a job like this I use a bleeder tank. The tank is just a jar with
a clear hose that is connnected to the top and then the end of the hose is
submerged in brake fluid inside the jar. Then all you do is open the
bleeder valve and go in the truck and pump the brake a few dozen times, go
out and tighten the bleeder valve again. What this does is let air out and
only fluid back in. I think if you just take an empty jar and stuck the end
of a bleeder hose submersed in some brake fluid (maybe 1" at bottom of jar
before you open the valve)and followed the same procedures you'd get good
results.

Anthony in Vista, CA
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 20:49:59 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 50 Wt Gear Oil

> The NP205/203 xfer case and Np435/T18 trannys all take 50 wt gear oil. I
> have always used 90 wt in them but the book says 50. I now use Mobil1 75-90
> synthetic in everything and there is a definite improvement but in the
> tranny and transfer case 50 would be better I'm sure. I looked but couldn't
> find any 50wt "Gear" oil, only 50 wt "Engine" oil which is not the same
> animal :-(

Check with your over the road truck shops. They will most likely carry
the Mobiltrans SHC 50, since all Eaton and RoadRanger trannies are
supposed to use it or they won't honor their warranty.

I think it's the synthetic properties of the oil that makes it flow so
well compared to traditional gear oil. 50 wt engine oil is about the
same viscosity as 90 wt gear oil. It just doesn't have the EP qualities
that make it suitable for hypoid gear use. I think that some trannies
can live with the 90 wt EP oil better than others, it depends on the
composition of the metals in there. And the additives that give it the
EP qualities are what makes it stiffer in cold weather.

The synthetic 50 wt "gear oil" is still AFAIK based on the SAE standard
for engine oil, and if it had EP qualities it would be called 90 wt gear
lube. If I'm wrong about this, I'd like to know about it.
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 21:48:52 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake Bleeding

In a message dated 8/25/99 9:46:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ga1998 hotmail.com writes:

> IP: Do the wheel closest to the master cyl. then the next one and so on
> till you get to the rear most wheel

Really? That is against the grain of conventional wisdom on this subject.
All recommendations state to start with the longest line (the wheel furthest
from the MC).


Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 22:29:37 EDT
From: JefriHansn aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Henry must be angry with me.

He truely must be. God and him are up there right now laughing saying
"did you see the look on his face!" "yah - did you see how far he threw that
wrench!?"
Finished putting the 351/400M Bellhousing (the one EVERYONE said to go
with to mate the 429 up - "get rid of the Lakewood Bellhousing") on last
Friday night. Motor turned over no problem. Tonight - put the NP 435 on -
fell right in - bolted up no problem; put the transmission cross member in;
bolted up the NP 205 transfer case; bolted up the drive shaft; hooked the
battery back up.
Got in - hit the key - started gave a couple click click clicks - then
the 1/2 inch thick, cast iron 351/400M bellhousing split 1/8 wide right done
the middle.
Tomarrow - gonna take it all back out - the 4th time in two weeks for
those keeping count with my wife and put the Lakewood back in one more time.
Don't "think" it's still for sale - after I calmed down - I started looking
at it in a new light - it has become a challenge - and MAN WILL PREVAIL OVER
THIS MACHINE! (HOPEFULLY - I'll keep my sanity, and family; and it'll be me.)
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 21:45:08 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: NOS Stuff

At 07:52 PM 8/25/99 EDT, you wrote:
>Stu:
>
> I wanted to give you a little update on my engine project. I was able
to
>order some of the NOS stuff I needed. The cheapest cam I found so far was
>$95. I think I'm going to pass for now. I did get a hell of a price on a
>cam gear through from Southside. He wouldn't budge on the cam price, but he
>was much higher anyway at $125. He had the best prices on everything else
of
>the other three suppliers that I tried. (Green Sales, MacDonalds and
Miller).
> Nobody has had the rod bearings I need :-(.....
>
> I have also enlisted some friends in my project....One guy "volunteered"
>to do some bead blasting for me. He is doing the intake and exhaust
>manifolds and the side oil cover. I'm leaning towards having the Exhaust
>"Jet Hot coated". It's clearly the best option but also the most
expensive.
>(any thoughts?) Another friend has "volunteered" to hone the block for me at
>the shop where he works. Everything should be back in the garage on Friday
>in time to spend some more quality time there.
>

Thom,

Oh man, that sounds awesome!!! Glad you were able to locate and acquire
some of the goodies!!! The FE cams are pretty much non-existent so I think
I may call him at southside
and buy the other one unless you want it. He was asking 125 for it too.
I did not have a very good phone convesration with him when I talked to him.
He was a plain and total "PRICK" to me and I basically told him where
he could put his cam. That was 8 months ago.........Maybe I have lived in
the deep south too long where I am used to everyone being very pleasant to
deal with. (I did grow up in West Virginia, kind of a northern state)

Sounds like you have all the bases covered for the solid beginings of a
great short block!
I drove Marino's inline 6 with 4V and man, I am almost ready to have a 240
or a 300 of my own someday.

As far as exhaust manifolds, since I was going for the stock look, I juts
oversprayed them according to the 390GT
Mustang specs for a concours resto. Nothing fancy!! They will rust and
that will be stock......
I considered cermaic or some sort of coating but...........Guess I am a
hard core stock guy!

Been thinking of a good vanity plate for the truck "NOSTRUK" hehehehe
whadda ya think??
Nuke GM would atract too many keys here in chebby country.

Whew, That is about all I can do for now.
BTW- I gave you McDonalds number and address, those people screwed me out
of 50 dollars and I vowed never to deal wiht them again.........I was not
happy.....long story I will share when I have more time.

Later, Good luck and remember to scrub good with soap and water before you
begin surgery
this weekend. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Keep me posted as you
progress.
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 21:46:43 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: NOS Stuff

Sorry guys, I thought Thom sent that to me privately..........I thought I
responded to him privately........
Guess that is my Foo Foo for the day!

sorry.

Stu

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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 22:42:23 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: NOS Stuff

In a message dated 8/25/99 10:41:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
nukegm ford-trucks.com writes:

> Sorry guys, I thought Thom sent that to me privately..........I thought I
> responded to him privately........
> Guess that is my Foo Foo for the day!
>
Yeah but I caused it on the original message.....so I owe the
apology----Sorry....

Stock Man
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 22:44:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: crewcab altavista.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 64 Crewcab Tire Saga

This is the long version of the tire story.
It happened a couple of weeks ago. Only the
dates were changed 'cause no one was innocent.

Good news, bad news on my '64 F100 CrewCab.
Got my truck back from the shop Wednesday night.
WOW, it actually goes, and even STOPS! ! ! !
It doesn't make any clunk sounds as it goes
around corners anymore! Boy did it feel good,
and sound good driving it again. Felt like a
lowrider with about 4 inches removed from the back!
Now to get rid of the oversize split rims there to
get back to stock height.

With unreliable brakes, I kept it's use to short
easy trips for the past few years.

If anyone is interested I have a list of every
brake component's price, so if you are faced
with brake work, you can save your pennies up.

There were three different master cylinders used
in '64, find a supplier that understands that, and
you are way ahead of the game.

Managed to find an original Bendix replacement
master cylinder.

Bad news, a portion the right front tire decided
that it didn't like the remaining portion of the
tire and went it's separate way, at highway speed!

A very loud KA-WANG and with the aid of a guard rail,
I could hear the thup thup thup of the tire. I
managed to limp to the nearest tire shop, and of
course nobody has 6.50 x 16 bias ply tires hanging
around, so had to call home for a ride, bummer. I'll
pick it up Saturday. I guess it's plan B. Plan A
was to buy new rims and run radials, but haven't
found a source yet, Coker isn't answering emails
with much detail, so it's taking time. I just
emailed Stockton Wheel. Any others out there that
can supply an original looking new wheel that uses
the original hubcap? Got the two front replaced.

While at the shop noticed the split rim tire was low,
so filled it up and found that the tire stem was split
and at certain angles would leak. Threw on the 7.5
tire on a '65 rim I got at wrecking yard and went home.
Still concerned about the old tires, had the last two
mounted on the '65 rims I got through the list (thanks
Brian) and at last have all four new tires.

Anybody have a couple of '64 6x16 rims? The '64 rims
have the spots to hold the hubcap on the inside edge

Late breaking news, Stockton Wheel just emailed that
they can do a stock wheel for $65 each! Now to save the
pennies up! It'll be awhile as I just bought 4 tires
for my 'other' car.

It was so good while it lasted. BTW, with the talk
of A/C lately, just want to brag that mine still
works great!

Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab

- ----------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 20:57:20 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - sealing a 390 intake....


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