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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, August 25 1999 Volume 03 : Number 300



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Displacement Equations
RE: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors
RE: FTE 61-79 - FLASHERS FIXED, NOW TRANSMISSION SHIFT SLOW
RE: FTE 61-79 - tough shifting 4spd
FTE 61-79 - 400W
FTE 61-79 - Stroker W
FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?
FTE 61-79 - 400W
FTE 61-79 - tranny seal
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Displacement Equations
FTE 61-79 - more air
FTE 61-79 - Whistleing tranny
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?
RE: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD
RE: FTE 61-79 - Whistleing tranny
FTE 61-79 - displacement
RE: FTE 61-79 - displacement
FTE 61-79 -
FTE 61-79 - New to list.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?
FTE 61-79 - Gear work
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes
FTE 61-79 - 400W
RE: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Book on Differentials
FTE 61-79 - RE: Engine Rebuild Update
RE: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD
RE: FTE 61-79 - New to list.
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Book on Differentials
Re: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors
FTE 61-79 - Cu In Formula
FTE 61-79 - 429/460 bolt patterns.
RE: FTE 61-79 - New to list, exhaust 101
Re: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD
FTE 61-79 - Re: Book on Differentials
RE: FTE 61-79 - New to list, exhaust 101
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 temp sending unit
Re: FTE 61-79 - Gear ratio
Re: FTE 61-79 - Gear ratio
FTE 61-79 - Welcome back

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 05:15:38 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Displacement Equations

>
>
> You lucked out with this math bubba ! If it had been any other bore it
> wouldn't have worked, because the equation is actually bore squared divided
> by 4, but that for you worked out. But generally pi r square right ? :)
> then divide that by 4 to get the r square to diameter terms ...
>
> so your equation would look a little more accurate as
> (area of a circle)* height of cylinder * number of cylinders * Pi (off the
> top of my head)
> 4.00x4.00/4x3.1415926 x 4.00 x 8 = 402.12 or whatever ..

The formula I use is Bore X Bore X .7854 X Stroke X Number of Cyls.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 07:12:46 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors

My first engine rebuild was not a ford but......the crank was screwed up
bigtime and the cylinders too but I put new rings in it, put shims "Under"
the original bearings because we couldn't afford new ones, tightened the rod
bolts with a 3' long pipe cheater, burned the clutch out trying to turn the
engine over, took some of the shims out, used less force to tighten the rods
and finally drove it for another 6 months before throwing a rod......12/12
is meaningless dudes and babes :-( With just the slightest improvement in
technique and workmanship over my first attempt an engine will last 12/12
easily which is not saying much for the quality we may expect. I ran
another one (same brand) for several weeks with the rod bolts only finger
tight before throwing the first rod.....:-)

Problem here is there is no real guarantee whether you have a local shop
build you one from scratch using your old engine or buy one done in a big
shop. You have to know who you are dealing with in any case and even
then......

Now aren't you glad you asked :-)

If you buy it from a parts dealer there is at least some small assurance
that they have had fair luck with them or they would be switching to someone
else. I only used one (302) from Mid Michigan Rebuilders or some such and
it was OK but even the best engine shops are going to try to get some
mileage out of cranks and heads by grinding each throw to a differnt size as
needed and manually fitting each one and nurling the valve guides rather
than replacing them etc. and I would not expect one of these to be balanced
either. For an average of $1200 for a full, rebuilt engine ready to bolt in
you can expect a year's worth of trouble free driving or more from most of
them so it may be worth it in the long run in any case....when it breaks,
throw it away and pop in another one, still cheaper than buying a new truck
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > so i am looking around to replace my motor- kragen auto
> parts has 390's for
> > ~$1000 they come from Bonded with a 12/12 warantee. does
> anyone have
> > experience with motors from them?
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 07:20:20 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - FLASHERS FIXED, NOW TRANSMISSION SHIFT SLOW

Low fluid.....first place to look :-) only 2qts low will prevent it from
shifting into high and often other gears as well. Course this should be
obvious right?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> It may reseal when warm and that's the only thing I've ever
> heard about that
> would cause a tranny not to shift into high.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 07:49:32 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - tough shifting 4spd

The NP205/203 xfer case and Np435/T18 trannys all take 50 wt gear oil. I
have always used 90 wt in them but the book says 50. I now use Mobil1 75-90
synthetic in everything and there is a definite improvement but in the
tranny and transfer case 50 would be better I'm sure. I looked but couldn't
find any 50wt "Gear" oil, only 50 wt "Engine" oil which is not the same
animal :-(

My clark 250 in my F-600 called for 140 and I can tell you it took some
warming up in the winter....... Actually though I probably misunderstood
and that was supposed to be for the rear end only but I put it in the clark
too :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> My 4spd tranny seems to be shifting a little harder than
> normal. It is in my
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:16:51 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400W

Gary P. writes: >>When you say 400W do you mean the 400, 335 series? I didn't
know they ever
made a 400 in the windsor block?

Ford didn't, but I plan to, by installing a 400 crank and pistons in one.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:17:57 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stroker W

Dave R. writes: >>Are you talking about a "stroker" Windsor?

Yep. Gonna install a 400 crank and pistons in the W.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:22:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pete Brunelli
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?

Hey,
I have been reading up on the procedure for replacing the rear main seal
in my 400M (78 f250 4x4 supercab) and asking some more knowledgeable
folks, and it looks like the job is done from the "front", as opposed to
pulling the trans. It should be a 2-piece seal from what I gather.
Anyone care to enlighten me further, perhaps with first hand experience?

Thanks,
Pete


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:43:15 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?

Pete Brunelli wrote:
>
> Hey,
> I have been reading up on the procedure for replacing the rear main seal
> in my 400M (78 f250 4x4 supercab) and asking some more knowledgeable
> folks, and it looks like the job is done from the "front", as opposed to
> pulling the trans. It should be a 2-piece seal from what I gather.
> Anyone care to enlighten me further, perhaps with first hand experience?
>

I didn't pull the trans, just the oil pan and last main bearing cap.
The original seal was a rope seal, so I screwed a sheet metal screw in
one end and pulled it out. It was not too hard, but some residue had to
be cleaned out with a real tiny screw driver. The replacement seal is a
2 part solid metal core with rubber around it. It just slides in from
either end. You offset the ends of each half so they don't coincide with
the main bearing cap/block split.

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 07:54:24 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400W

My apologies, Azie. If anyone can build it, you can. It should prove to be
an interesting project. Slap one of those later model FI units on it and you
will have one eye popping engine.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 07:50:42 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - tranny seal

>>Also, I've not run across a tranny yet that
didn't have to be seperated from the engine to change a front seal.

And I don't think you will, either. The only possible loop hole here would
be the old 63ish Pontiacs that had the driveshaft between the engine and
transmission. The tranny was back at the diff. It was supposed to more
evenly distributue the drive train weight. Besides, even if you could get
the seal out of the tranny, how would you get it off the shaft or the new
one on?

Oops. I thought of another possible candidate. Conventionally mounted front
drive GMs like the Eldorado, Riv and Toronado. They use a chain drive from
the engine to the tranny.

My favorite line in the Chilton manual is still: "Remove engine and
transmission as a unit."

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:51:37 EDT
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?

- ----Original Message Follows----
From: James Oxley
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:43:15 -0400
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Pete Brunelli wrote:
>
> Hey,
> I have been reading up on the procedure for replacing the rear main seal
> in my 400M (78 f250 4x4 supercab) and asking some more knowledgeable
> folks, and it looks like the job is done from the "front", as opposed to
> pulling the trans. It should be a 2-piece seal from what I gather.
> Anyone care to enlighten me further, perhaps with first hand experience?
>

I didn't pull the trans, just the oil pan and last main bearing cap.
The original seal was a rope seal, so I screwed a sheet metal screw in
one end and pulled it out. It was not too hard, but some residue had to
be cleaned out with a real tiny screw driver. The replacement seal is a
2 part solid metal core with rubber around it. It just slides in from
either end. You offset the ends of each half so they don't coincide with
the main bearing cap/block split.

OX
He did it. TIPS: If you loose the screw connection and the rope hangs up
then you can put a 20p nail cut about 1 1/2" long into the cranshaft oil
hole and rotate the shaft to clean it all out and be sure when placing the
new seal in to use a airplane manifold or dark brown glue, it lubs it going
in and makes it leakproof when it dries.
GA
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:14:09 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Displacement Equations

> > (area of a circle)* height of cylinder * number of cylinders
> * Pi (off the
> > top of my head)
> > 4.00x4.00/4x3.1415926 x 4.00 x 8 = 402.12 or
> whatever ..
>
> The formula I use is Bore X Bore X .7854 X Stroke X Number of Cyls.


That works too, as Pi/4=.785398 or .7854 :)

Just that its easier for me to remember Pi than another stinkin constant
(leftover from my engineering schooling)


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:26:31 -0500
From:
Subject: FTE 61-79 - more air

>How can I tell the difference between an R12 and
>R134A system? Is this possible? Would I be wrong, in assuming,
>that the 78 van came with an R12 system originally

The fill connectors are different from 12 to 134a. 134a cannot go in to a 12
system without having somekind of (most likely illegally) rigged setup. There are
some adapters I think that can screw onto a 12 fitting to put 134a in when doing a
retrofit.
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 09:13:20 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Whistleing tranny

Bill R. writes: >>That's great and all about the transmissions and small
block/big block, but
I didn't ever get an answer to my first question. After I put the Shift
Improvement Kit in the tranmission make kind of a whistling sound. It shifts
okay I guess. I can't take it on the publick roads cause it's three years
out of inspection plus all the metal is off. Is the trans supposed to make
this sound or am I in trouble? Thanx.

I wouldn't think that the whistle would not be normal. What tranny?? Do you
have a spare valve body for your same tranny?? If so, swap it in and see if the
whistle goes away. I suspect the whistle is caused by fluid under very high
pressure going thru an opening that isn't just exactly as it is supposed to be
and I would suspect the valve body. When you did the Install on the kit, did
you rebuild the whole tranny, or did you just remove the valve body and do it
alone?? All the above and probably much more is important in trying to help you
out here.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.




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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 09:15:44 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?

Haven't tried the rope trick (sheet metal screw) yet but have done the
rubber seals and they are pretty easy. You must be careful not to scratch
the crank, either with the screw threads or any punch you may use. Take
your time, be patient and be careful or the whole thing will be a waste of
time and effort. One small scratch will eat the new seal and you are back
to square one :-(

The aircraft sealer is a good idea.....if you can get it in there without
getting it all over the seal surface or crank. Theoretically the oil you
use to lube the crank during assy. will wash away the sealer before it can
dry but don't count on it.

I dropped all the main caps a tad to give it more space to come loose but be
carefull not to allow the bearing inserts to come loose and allow oil to get
behind them. Inserts should be installed dry on the back to allow better
heat transfer to the block.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Pete Brunelli [mailto:pcb connix.com]
> Sent: 08/25/1999 8:23 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?
>
>
> Hey,
> I have been reading up on the procedure for replacing the
> rear main seal
> in my 400M (78 f250 4x4 supercab) and asking some more knowledgeable
> folks, and it looks like the job is done from the "front", as
> opposed to
> pulling the trans. It should be a 2-piece seal from what I gather.
> Anyone care to enlighten me further, perhaps with first hand
> experience?
>
> Thanks,
> Pete
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 09:28:57 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD

Yeah, mine still chatters in OD when it shifts and it still shifts at the
wrong time and takes forever to decide if it even wants to shift, meanwhile
you are in limbo.....This was not one of ford's "better Ideas" for sure. I
would venture to guess that it has a wide ratio gearset since that 3.8
chirps the tires even when I don't try :-)

My wife's cousin's husband actually does the programming for the ABS brakes,
not the EEC main program or tranny. I remember him telling me once he spent
10.5 months writing and testing just one program. He is a typical
programmer, crazy, full of fun, no fun to be around when he's drunk :-) He
is very smart, his son is genius class intelligence but.......:-) I just
like to tease Chrysler owners that I know the drunk who does the programming
:-) (while it may be mostly true, I really am just kidding :-)) I will
refrain from mentioning the site he works from or his name to protect the
innoc....er....well whatever :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> That would be a 4R70W, which is the same slipping tranny in my
> '94 t-bird, which is a newer version of the AOD-E. I see you
> haven't fixed yours yet, either :-). Any hot converter
> x recommendations?
>
> [drunken relatives deleted]
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 09:34:17 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Whistleing tranny

I agree and with all the metal removed from the truck you will hear things
you would never hear otherwise as well. It truely is amazing how loud a
normal, good running, brand new engine is outside the vehicle or with body
removed. Is the whistle constant or does it change or go away under certain
conditions? A vac line can make quite a noise at idle sometimes too :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I wouldn't think that the whistle would not be normal. What
> tranny?? Do you

> and I would suspect the valve body. When you did the Install
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:40:21 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - displacement

>>so your equation would look a little more accurate as
(area of a circle)* height of cylinder * number of cylinders * Pi (off the
top of my head)

Wish, tilt the top of your head and let that last pi slide off. To find the
volume of a cylinder, you multiply the surface area of one end times the
height. In our case, the height is the stroke. The bore is the diameter of
the cylinder. The radius of a circle is half the diameter. So your formula
is thus:

bore = d, stroke = h, pi = 3.14

(d/2)*(d/2)*3.14*h=volume of one cylinder

- -- John (aka 14 years of teaching secondary math)
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:40:15 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - displacement

> >>so your equation would look a little more accurate as
> (area of a circle)* height of cylinder * number of cylinders *
> Pi (off the
> top of my head)
>
> Wish, tilt the top of your head and let that last pi slide off.


yeah, I changed the way I was typing it right in the middle, apparently
forgot the delete key a few more times ;)

> bore = d, stroke = h, pi = 3.14
>
> (d/2)*(d/2)*3.14*h=volume of one cylinder
>

a little more math and you get d*d/4*3.14*h=volume of one cylinder ;)

> -- John (aka 14 years of teaching secondary math)

hahahaha ... you sayin I need to go back again ? Its not the math I have
problems with, its the hands not doin what the brain tells them ;)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:54:06 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 -

>>How can I tell the difference between an R12 and
R134A system?

Jeff,

A properly retrofitted R134a system is supposed to have different sized
service valves permanently affixed, be tagged as retrofitted, and all of the
R12 labels permanently detroyed. If someone put R134 in with R12 or even
R134 in without flushing out the old oil, your system is toast. Someone else
will have to outline possible repairs for that scenario, it's beyond me.

>>By the way... would you do it again... knowing what you know now?

I spent a lot of my own valuable time and not very plentiful energy as well
as a chunk of hard earned cash. I am still not convinced that retrofitting
to R134a will ever give me results that I can live with. I know I could
never stand no cold air at idle and SWMBO would drive me bananas. Yes, I
would work on it again. Call me a cynic, but I just don't trust someone who
wants to replace an entire system because they want to maximize their
profit.

When the compressor fails on my F150 next time, I am going to convert it to
the Frigidaire A6 compressor and stick with R12. I hope it's a long time
until then.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:58:04 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New to list.

I had wrong address on first attempt.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Jacobs
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 8:54 AM
To: 'Ford'
Subject: newbie

Bought a '78 F150 4x4 Custom out of N. Dakota this last June almost rust
free. I bought it to tow my Jeep Wrangler to trail riding events and to use
as a daily driver. The truck was used on the farm extensively and
subsequently, the mechanical portion of the vehicle was in need of
replacement. On the 9" the pinion pilot bearing was missing! Needless to say
the R&P were pretty chewed up. I replaced the tired 400M (took 1 qt of oil
every 60 miles) with a 460 and the NP203 with an NP205. I kept the C6 but
have an NP435 waiting for its turn. My question is about the exhaust system.
I have truck exhaust manifolds and they're connected via 9" of 460 exhaust
pipe from the flange down, welded to existing 400M exhaust pipe. Have
incredible power in the low range and accelerating to highway speed, but
after not much. On hills with the Jeep behind I feel a loss of power, but up
to that point I can't even feel the Jeep back there! Would like headers and
a true exhaust for this engine and am looking for ideas. Thanks.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 10:04:40 -0400
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?

You can tell this man has had his hands in the engine before two or twelve
times. Listen to him.
GA
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Peters, Gary (G.R.)
To:
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 9:15 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?


> Haven't tried the rope trick (sheet metal screw) yet but have done the
> rubber seals and they are pretty easy. You must be careful not to scratch
> the crank, either with the screw threads or any punch you may use. Take
> your time, be patient and be careful or the whole thing will be a waste of
> time and effort. One small scratch will eat the new seal and you are back
> to square one :-(
>
> The aircraft sealer is a good idea.....if you can get it in there without
> getting it all over the seal surface or crank. Theoretically the oil you
> use to lube the crank during assy. will wash away the sealer before it can
> dry but don't count on it.
>
> I dropped all the main caps a tad to give it more space to come loose but
be
> carefull not to allow the bearing inserts to come loose and allow oil to
get
> behind them. Inserts should be installed dry on the back to allow better
> heat transfer to the block.
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
> --
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Pete Brunelli [mailto:pcb connix.com]
> > Sent: 08/25/1999 8:23 AM
> > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear main seal on 400m?
> >
> >
> > Hey,
> > I have been reading up on the procedure for replacing the
> > rear main seal
> > in my 400M (78 f250 4x4 supercab) and asking some more knowledgeable
> > folks, and it looks like the job is done from the "front", as
> > opposed to
> > pulling the trans. It should be a 2-piece seal from what I gather.
> > Anyone care to enlighten me further, perhaps with first hand
> > experience?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Pete
> >
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 07:10:27 -0700
From: "Scott Jensen"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gear work

Hi all,
Well, I'm in the planning stages of rebuilding my transfer case,(76 F100,
spicer 21, single speed), and I was wondering if anyone out there could
give me a bit of insight. I've been looking for a reason to get a press and
this might be it. Or is this something where I should take the thing apart,
clean it and take it to the machine shop? I've replaced axles and swapped
out third members and everything else on on trucks, but the gear parts.
I've always wanted to get a little deeper into it. I guess a list of "must
have" tools is what I'm looking for. Thanks..:)

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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 09:11:18 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes

Travis

If your going to it do it right. Have the rotors turned if needed. Other
wise they'll never work right, wear out faster, give you a bad rep. and
won't impress her at all.

k i dont think it has ABS but i dont think we are gonna turn rotors probally
>just gonna pull it apart and throw pads on and call it a deal. but the car
>has had a really bad squek and i think its the safety deal im gonna pull off
>the wheel and see what its like bfore i go digging into it. its amazing
what
>Travis
>
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>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 10:05:39 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400W

William B. writes: >>I can't find it now, but man it seems like I saw somewhere
that someone had
done this and had some documentation on the web... I just wish I could
remember where! Maybe someone else out there has seen this ? Seems like a
lot of cutting on the counter weights was required, but that could just be
me misremembering stuff ...

This is the info I was hoping someone could point me to>>>> Keep trying to
remember, and post anything you might find/remember. I don't have access to the
WWW, but my Son does, and he will look up all these things for me.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 07:17:46 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors

I have a 3rd suggestion. Performance Automotive Wholesale (PAW) sells
complete 390 kits-- not assembled. Get one of their kits, the machine work
should be done and all checks made. If you don't feel confident putting it
together then find a good mechanic/machine shop to put it together for you.

BTW, the PAW catalog is about $5.00. BUY IT! It is better than the yellow
pages for finding parts that are available.

Tom H.


> > so i am looking around to replace my motor- kragen auto parts has 390's
> for
> > ~$1000 they come from Bonded with a 12/12 warantee. does anyone have
> > experience with motors from them?
>
> No direct experience, but we have "kicked" around buying rebuilt
> motors here before -lots of horror stories to go around. Remember,
> you're buying someone elses problems. They are guarenteed for 12/12,
> but only the motor. You supply the labor. Someone posted about
> changing motors 3-4 times. No Thanks!
>
> I'd recommend:
>
> 1) Find a good machine shop, pull your motor and rebuild it. It
> will cost the same or less, and you'll have a MUCH better engine.
>
> 2) If you need to drive the truck while rebuilding, find a used
> running 360/390 from a wrecker. Install it, and then take your
> time on the rebuild. You'll learn all kinds of stuff, and you
> have the use of FTE as a nearly unlimited resource :-)
> When you're ready to install your rebuild, put the used engine
> in the classifieds. You may even get your money back out
> of it if people can listen to it run before purchasing.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 10:20:20 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Book on Differentials

draco pacifier.com wrote:
>
> OX wrote:
> > I don't recall the original post. Which rear are you trying to
> > rebuild/setup again?
>
> Dana 44 front.
>

Dana's are a major hassle to set up gears. The pinion shims are located
under one of the pinion bearing races and the carrier shims are located
under one of the carrier bearings. If you have to set up the gears, you
will be pulling and reinstalling these items quite a bit to keep
changing the shims. Having a specific pinion depth tool will help you
get in the ball park for the pinion shim. Also, I always thought dana's
did not have crush sleeves.

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 07:21:40 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Engine Rebuild Update

Now I need to find out where to get adapters to use my
Edelbrock Intake(351C-4V) with the 4V heads on the 400
block. In a prior list someone gave a name of a
company in Ark, I haven't yet contacted them, but I
thought Offenhauser or someone made something that I
could use. Thanks to everyone for your help.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V


Weiand has what your looking for, mine were about $100 when I bought them.
No-one makes a single plane intake for the 400 so to get a decent manifold
you have to use the Cleveland unit.
These spacers are 0.875 thick, Bolt to the heads and then the manifold bolts
to them. They are made for the 2BBL heads but can easily be port matched to
the 4BBL heads.
Add the bypass oil line to the engine if you plan on sustaining 4500+RPM for
any length of time.

Muel


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 10:24:12 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD

Ox, this sounds a tad too good to be true? Can you eliminate the dwell
between shifts when it's not appropriat for emissions standards? (:-)) The
problem with the stock system is that is has conflicting tables to work with
and has to make a worst case pick after digesting a lot of junk so we jam it
in first and at about 35 we want a fast clean shift with light throttle.....
because that's what tells it to shift when the system it's too stupid to
shift before it blows up...and then again with moderate/hard accelleration
to about 50-60 where we want another clean shift but then the OD tries to
take over and you get a 3-4, Bang Bang clunk shudder shudder unless you let
all the way off the gas....this is not my idea of fun :-( The C-6 behind my
460 OTOH shifts exactly where it should under all conditions, hard or soft
and it can be adjusted for differing applications to shift well over a fair
range.

I agree that, in theory at least, the computer should be able to do a better
job but there is a fly in the ointment called EPA and Programmers with
vendettas and......

Actually I see it as a small engine in a big car problem mostly. My 86
cougar turbo with 4 banger had the same problem and it was not electronic,
just poorly designed :-) I suspect they used a TPS instead of vacuum to
tell it when to shift since there was no vacuum due to the turbo.

If this device will eliminate all these problems I'm interested. What do
you use to program it? At the very least it should allow the converter to
last longer once I get around to rebuilding it :-) I hate it when 3 & 4 try
to shift at the same time :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --


> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Oxley [mailto:luxjo thecore.com]
> Sent: 08/23/1999 4:10 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD
>
>
> William S. Hart wrote:
> >
> > > That stuff can be adjusted with a chip, thats one nice
> thing about it.
> >
> > That's a nice thing about it ???? Sorry bud, but I'll
> stick with the manual
> > I've got in my own car...it shifts when I tell it to (not
> even an override
> > like the 'vettes have)
> >
>
> I meant nice as far as electronically controlled auto's go.
>
> > > Here is all the stuff that can be changed with a chip on
> EEC-IV, AOD-E's
> > > These values are from a 5.0 mustang
> > >
> > yeah, except the 98's are on EEC-V aren't they ?
>
> Yes, but they have chips for them already.
>
> >and which costs more, a shift kit from B&M, or a chip ?
>
> Chips are about 250$, but that also includes full fuel and timing
> changes too!
>
> >i think you'll find the shift kit wins out, and is more tuneable ...
>
> More tunable???, You can tune all that stuff I just posted
> with a shift
> kit? Unlikely, unless your talking full manual control on an auto :-)
> Even then, you can adjust firmness of a shift, vs throttle
> position (vac
> in your case), totally different for 1-2 or 2-3 shifts and make down
> shifts different also, or have non-linear curves for each relationship
> for each gear for upshifts/downshifts, ect..??? I mean, I'd
> rather have
> manual or full manual control (of auto), but if you can't
> then at least
> being able to re-program your elec tranny is nice.
>
> OX
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
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>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 09:29:31 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - New to list.

> I have truck exhaust manifolds and they're connected via 9" of
> 460 exhaust
> pipe from the flange down, welded to existing 400M exhaust pipe. Have
> incredible power in the low range and accelerating to highway speed, but
> after not much. On hills with the Jeep behind I feel a loss of
> power, but up
> to that point I can't even feel the Jeep back there! Would like
> headers and
> a true exhaust for this engine and am looking for ideas. Thanks.


Lots of people make headers for the 460 in a truck, not lots make them for a
460 in a 4x4. I'm really not sure of the names of the people who do, but
here's some things that bug me about the long tubes for those, they tend to
hang down to get around the bottom of the transfer case on the driver's
side, this may not be an issue for you, but it is something to consider ...
sometimes the best idea is to run the 2 into 1 system, where you run 2 2"
pipes back and then go into a muffler that exits as a single 3" ... this may
not be enough for a 460, I don't know, but I would think it would do alright
... running the long tubes may not make this possible though, it depends on
how much room you have between the x-fer and the end of the header...

I think Hooker makes some headers, and probalby L&L but I try and stay way
from those 460's ;)


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 10:42:47 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Book on Differentials

Danas do not have crush sleeves, they use shim stacks and they can,
theoretically be set up once, the first time if you follow the directions
but as we all know things happen.....:-)

The procedure is to set it up with no shims first and leave the oil slinger
out because when you try to press the bearing off it will damage the slinger
so leave it out until you have it all set up correctly.

Install all the pinion bearings fully seated, measure the depth, assemble
the stacks, disassemble, re-assemble with stacks, check, disassemble,
install all parts, reassemble and torque.

Now assemble the diff housing (carrier) with no shims, set clearances,
measure clearances with feelers, assemble stacks, disassemble, install
stacks, re-assemble and you should be done......if you are carefull :-)

Beg borrow or steal (just kidding) a spreader and you will thank me
profusely when you are done :-)

BTW, make a picture of all the parts and the order they go in and where in
relation to the bearings they are and what orientation (flip or not) so you
don't have to take it all apart to move something and, as I mentioned go
back to the ford dealer for new slingers, seals etc........I won't tell you
which guru gave me this advice or where I might otherwise have learned
it.....5th ammendment and all that :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Dana's are a major hassle to set up gears. The pinion shims
> are located
> under one of the pinion bearing races and the carrier shims
> are located
> under one of the carrier bearings. If you have to set up the
> gears, you
> will be pulling and reinstalling these items quite a bit to keep
> changing the shims. Having a specific pinion depth tool will help you
> get in the ball park for the pinion shim. Also, I always
> thought dana's
> did not have crush sleeves.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 07:44:07 -0700
From: Clare Waterman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors

"Hogan, Tom" wrote:

> I have a 3rd suggestion. Performance Automotive Wholesale (PAW) sells
> complete 390 kits-- not assembled. Get one of their kits, the machine work
> should be done and all checks made. If you don't feel confident putting it
> together then find a good mechanic/machine shop to put it together for you.

but the kits are expensive!!! i am on a budget!

>
>
> BTW, the PAW catalog is about $5.00. BUY IT! It is better than the yellow
> pages for finding parts that are available.
>
> Tom H.
>
>
> > > so i am looking around to replace my motor- kragen auto parts has 390's
> > for
> > > ~$1000 they come from Bonded with a 12/12 warantee. does anyone have
> > > experience with motors from them?
> >
> > No direct experience, but we have "kicked" around buying rebuilt
> > motors here before -lots of horror stories to go around. Remember,
> > you're buying someone elses problems. They are guarenteed for 12/12,
> > but only the motor. You supply the labor. Someone posted about
> > changing motors 3-4 times. No Thanks!
> >
> > I'd recommend:
> >
> > 1) Find a good machine shop, pull your motor and rebuild it. It
> > will cost the same or less, and you'll have a MUCH better engine.
> >
> > 2) If you need to drive the truck while rebuilding, find a used
> > running 360/390 from a wrecker. Install it, and then take your
> > time on the rebuild. You'll learn all kinds of stuff, and you
> > have the use of FTE as a nearly unlimited resource :-)
> > When you're ready to install your rebuild, put the used engine
> > in the classifieds. You may even get your money back out
> > of it if people can listen to it run before purchasing.
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 10:38:45 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cu In Formula

Danny Ling writes: >> To get the displacement of an engine you need to multiply
bore x
stroke x # of cylinders x Pi (3.14). A 400M has a 4.00" bore and a 4.00"
stroke and 8 cylinders. (4.00 X 4.00 X 8 X 3.14 = 401.92 CID). A 351W
has a 4.00 bore and a 3.50 stroke (351.68 CID).
A common build up for the 351W is to use a 400 crank in a 351W block
(which requires some block modification to clear the crank
counterweights and connecting rods) and a .030" overbore. With this you
get a motor that displaces 404.93 (405 CID).
The "427" mentioned earlier is a 351W block and a 400M crank that has
been machined down to accept a Chrysler rod (this allows one to machine
the crank throws off center to add a longer stroke). this is a very
difficult process and requires a special piston to be cut just for the
combination (I know Keith Black has the pattern for it).

Your formula will not work correctly on any engine not having a 4" bore.
Correct volume formula is: Radius squared (R2), and only on 4" bore does this
turn out to be the same 4". ie Volume = Pi X R2 X L and multiply this X #
cyls for Cu In.

Thanks for all the other information, especially the offset grind on the crank
and the MOP*R 360 rod use. That explains it. Offset grinding is much more
widely done nowdays than just a few years ago. I think all(at least all I've
had the pleasure of being inside) the V6's use it,even if it is for a different
reason (balance). I don't plan to offset grind my crank just yet, but I do
happen to have a set of 360 MOP*R rods laying around, so it gives me something
to think about.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 10:43:57 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 429/460 bolt patterns.

Bill B. writes: >>Transmissions i think are different. Same C-6 but if you take
one off a 460
it won't bolt up to a 429. Correct me if I'm wrong..

Naw... They are the same also.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 10:57:33 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - New to list, exhaust 101

Here's my take on this.....two into one is the easiest, efficient way to go.
You already have the truck exhaust so you are most of the way home. Headers
on 4x4's are a pain unless you get the over the frame, outside the frame
style, they are expensive and, unless you have done extensive work on the
engine will dissappoint you with the results. My stock 460 actually ran
better with the Walker 2 into 1 system than with the headers and that was on
a 2wd with straight pipes and no interferance. As you say, great at the
bottom but nothing on top. With headers, 2.75 gears and wide ratio C-6, it
chokes at about 75 in second and I have to let off the gas to force a shift
which is really irritating when passing 10 cars........Ooooops....Passing
traffic in the rain :-) (only did that twice, don't do it anymore...:-))

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I have truck exhaust manifolds and they're connected via 9"
> of 460 exhaust
> pipe from the flange down, welded to existing 400M exhaust pipe. Have
> incredible power in the low range and accelerating to highway
> speed, but
> after not much.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 11:06:04 -0400
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD

Let me give you the site url again.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.baumannengineering.com/index.htm
Now what keeps all this thing thinking is a linkage from you EFI or carb
back down to your tranny. It is called a TV. That with the info the
tconverter is sending along with the brain in the cab makes it work like a
dream. I hated my ADO transmission and was and I guess still am a C6 man
but like the 351C it is now a thing of the past, untill I got with the
people at Baumann Engineering. In my book they have there stuff together
better than B&M as they are making the Ford AOD and other electric
transmissions work in wreckers, buses, police cars, drag cars, ambulances
and more without all the to ha..
Please follow the links off the pages and there is a total wealth of
information and very little smoak.
GA .
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Peters, Gary (G.R.)
To:
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 10:24 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD


> Ox, this sounds a tad too good to be true? Can you eliminate the dwell
> between shifts when it's not appropriat for emissions standards? (:-))
The
> problem with the stock system is that is has conflicting tables to work
with
> and has to make a worst case pick after digesting a lot of junk so we jam
it
> in first and at about 35 we want a fast clean shift with light
throttle.....
> because that's what tells it to shift when the system it's too stupid to
> shift before it blows up...and then again with moderate/hard accelleration
> to about 50-60 where we want another clean shift but then the OD tries to
> take over and you get a 3-4, Bang Bang clunk shudder shudder unless you
let
> all the way off the gas....this is not my idea of fun :-( The C-6 behind
my
> 460 OTOH shifts exactly where it should under all conditions, hard or soft
> and it can be adjusted for differing applications to shift well over a
fair
> range.
>
> I agree that, in theory at least, the computer should be able to do a
better
> job but there is a fly in the ointment called EPA and Programmers with
> vendettas and......
>
> Actually I see it as a small engine in a big car problem mostly. My 86
> cougar turbo with 4 banger had the same problem and it was not electronic,
> just poorly designed :-) I suspect they used a TPS instead of vacuum to
> tell it when to shift since there was no vacuum due to the turbo.
>
> If this device will eliminate all these problems I'm interested. What do
> you use to program it? At the very least it should allow the converter to
> last longer once I get around to rebuilding it :-) I hate it when 3 & 4
try
> to shift at the same time :-(
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
> --
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: James Oxley [mailto:luxjo thecore.com]
> > Sent: 08/23/1999 4:10 PM
> > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD
> >
> >
> > William S. Hart wrote:
> > >
> > > > That stuff can be adjusted with a chip, thats one nice
> > thing about it.
> > >
> > > That's a nice thing about it ???? Sorry bud, but I'll
> > stick with the manual
> > > I've got in my own car...it shifts when I tell it to (not
> > even an override
> > > like the 'vettes have)
> > >
> >
> > I meant nice as far as electronically controlled auto's go.
> >
> > > > Here is all the stuff that can be changed with a chip on
> > EEC-IV, AOD-E's
> > > > These values are from a 5.0 mustang
> > > >
> > > yeah, except the 98's are on EEC-V aren't they ?
> >
> > Yes, but they have chips for them already.
> >
> > >and which costs more, a shift kit from B&M, or a chip ?
> >
> > Chips are about 250$, but that also includes full fuel and timing
> > changes too!
> >
> > >i think you'll find the shift kit wins out, and is more tuneable ...
> >
> > More tunable???, You can tune all that stuff I just posted
> > with a shift
> > kit? Unlikely, unless your talking full manual control on an auto :-)
> > Even then, you can adjust firmness of a shift, vs throttle
> > position (vac
> > in your case), totally different for 1-2 or 2-3 shifts and make down
> > shifts different also, or have non-linear curves for each relationship
> > for each gear for upshifts/downshifts, ect..??? I mean, I'd
> > rather have
> > manual or full manual control (of auto), but if you can't
> > then at least
> > being able to re-program your elec tranny is nice.
> >
> > OX
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:08:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Book on Differentials

Brett wrote:
> What pieces are chewed up?

The two pinion gears. Do you refer to all 4 as spider gears?

> The reason I ask is that replacing just the 4 gears inside the
> carrier ("spider gears" or "two side gears on the axles and two
> pinion gears") is just a Remove and Replace (R&R) affair.

I could use some R&R about now.

You mean replace the gears and reassemble without having do do
all the setup? Seems like I definitely have to remove the
carrier, or is there a way to get the differential pinion shaft
without pulling all this stuff out?

> Now if either/both the Ring gear ("Crown" gear on the carrier)
> and the "Pinion" gear that meshes with it are damaged then it
> moves beyond simple R&R and gets into the world of setting up
> the gear lash.

What if I want to replace the drive pinion bearing, seal and
carrier bearings, using the original ring and pinion? I was
thinking this would make the setup easier, but I would still
have to do it.

I am still reading the books. I was never much good at book
learning. My mind tends to drift off. Never happens reading
the FTE list though. :)

> So what are your damages?

About $7.5K so far. :)

I can only see the two pinion gears broken. I have been reading
that you should replace any gears that mesh with the broken ones
because there can be stress cracks that are hard to see. The
seals at the ends of the axle housing are leaking so all the
stuff out there will get replaced. After all this, I still
hardly have any brakes, but that's a discussion for later.

> Is this full-time or part-time fourwheel drive?

I have an NP203 with a part time kit installed. Check out my
truck on my web page below.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 10:05:21 -0500
From: Dave Jacobs
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - New to list, exhaust 101

Thanks to all. Thinking of keeping the stock manifolds and looking at
replacing the narrower 400m tubes w/glass packs with something quieter and
more 'tuned' to the 460.

-----Original Message-----
From: Peters, Gary (G.R.) [mailto:gpeters3 visteon.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 1999 9:58 AM
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - New to list, exhaust 101

Here's my take on this.....two into one is the easiest,
efficient way to go.
You already have the truck exhaust so you are most of the
way home. Headers
on 4x4's are a pain unless you get the over the frame,
outside the frame
style, they are expensive and, unless you have done
extensive work on the
engine will dissappoint you with the results. My stock 460
actually ran
better with the Walker 2 into 1 system than with the headers
and that was on
a 2wd with straight pipes and no interferance. As you say,
great at the
bottom but nothing on top. With headers, 2.75 gears and
wide ratio C-6, it
chokes at about 75 in second and I have to let off the gas
to force a shift
which is really irritating when passing 10
cars........Ooooops....Passing
traffic in the rain :-) (only did that twice, don't do it
anymore...:-))

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
--

> I have truck exhaust manifolds and they're connected via
9"
> of 460 exhaust
> pipe from the flange down, welded to existing 400M exhaust
pipe. Have
> incredible power in the low range and accelerating to
highway
> speed, but
> after not much.
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== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 09:24:51 -0600
From: Sean B Cardwell
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 temp sending unit

I have a 78 f250 with a 460 and the sending unit is in the intake manifold
on the front right or drivers side .

Michael Ray Jones wrote:

> Can someone point me in the right direction to the temp sending unit on
> my 77 F150 460? My temp guage is not working, and I thought I'd start
> there. Anybody have any other hints?
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



- --
Sean Cardwell
Work (801)581-5618
Home email tignlamb wans.net
Work email cardwell cs.utah.edu



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:28:22 -0700
From: MC
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Gear ratio

JT Kelly wrote:

> Not sure what year truck your talking about but on my 69 there is a code on the tag on the jam of the driver side door. Post what that says and you can tell for sure as the tire size dictates the effective ratio.
>
> JT

The truck is a '70 F100, but looking at that tag won't do me any good. The rear axle is not originally from that truck. When I bought the truck, it had a 3/4 ton rear end in it, and no rear drive line. The previous
owner drove it around with the transfer case in 4 hi and just ran on the front wheels.....


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