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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #298
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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, August 24 1999 Volume 03 : Number 298



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - introduction
FTE 61-79 - Oil Expert, Naw, Merely a Dillitante
FTE 61-79 - FLASHERS FIXED, NOW TRANSMISSION SHIFT SLOW
FTE 61-79 - Hypereut's and nitrous
FTE 61-79 - Turn signal bulb
FTE 61-79 - 400W
FTE 61-79 - Cu In
FTE 61-79 - 4R70W
FTE 61-79 - 1157 vs 2057
Re: FTE 61-79 - 4R70W
FTE 61-79 - badges
FTE 61-79 - tough shifting 4spd
Re: FTE 61-79 - tough shifting 4spd
FTE 61-79 - Re: Book on Differentials
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Book on Differentials
Re: FTE 61-79 - Turn signal bulb
RE: FTE 61-79 - Friendly street match
Re: FTE 61-79 - 4R70W
FTE 61-79 - Core Support (Splash Panel)
Re: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD
Re: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD
RE: FTE 61-79 - 400W
FTE 61-79 - Gear ratio
RE: FTE 61-79 - 1157 vs 2057
FTE 61-79 - 1157-2057
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cu In
FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors
RE: FTE 61-79 - Cu In
Re: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors
FTE 61-79 - 460 temp sending unit
RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 temp sending unit
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes
RE: FTE 61-79 - Brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Book on Differentials
FTE 61-79 - Vacuum Diagram Van76,E150,351W,V8
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum Diagram Van76,E150,351W,V8
Re: FTE 61-79 - 400W
FTE 61-79 - Engine Rebuild Update
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1157 vs 2057
FTE 61-79 - 64 CrewCab is Rollin!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Rebuild Update
FTE 61-79 - FLASHERS FIXED, NOW TRANSMISSION SHIFT SLOW
FTE 61-79 - Re 400W
Re: FTE 61-79 - Gear ratio
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Rebuild Update

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 06:29:57 -0400
From: Huw Powell
Subject: FTE 61-79 - introduction

Hi all,

I just s*bscr*bed.

I have had a 1973 F250 (4wd, 360, C-6, Fisher plow) for about 6 1/2
years. Unfortunately the cab mounts are pretty much history (and have
been for ages). Luckily the steering column holds the cab on top of the
frame for now.

Since I really want to make it street legal again soon I will be
swapping a cab and fenders from a 77 or so donor vehicle (it has a
seized 305 or something, manual trans, and some kind of lift kit on it -
oh yeah, and 8 lug rear wheels and 5 lug fronts!).

This will also involve (hopefully) using the 77's power steering bits
and (maybe) brake booster. (And rewiring the whole truck probably)

I figure this list will be my best resource for the many questions I
will have into while doing this job.

Any hints in advance will certainly be welcome.

Thanks!

- --
Huw Powell

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/

82 Audi Coupe; 84 4kq; 85 Coupe GT; 73 F250

(I will try to use less parentheses in future)
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 06:16:31 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil Expert, Naw, Merely a Dillitante

> Before you tear that 4-speed apart, try some new oil. I used 50 wt engine oil
> and it made a big difference. Next time, however, I'm going to use the
> synthetic tranny oil....I think Ballinger is the expert on that....but I'm
> not sure.....there is some kind of Mobil product available.

The oil that I use in my '65 NP435 and Dana 24 is Mobiltrans SHC 50.
It's a fully synthetic oil that can be used in any transmission
application that calls for a 50 wt engine oil. It's used specifically
in over the road Eaton and RoadRanger transmissions, and is required by
the manufacturers for their full warranties.

My 435 had a nasty clash going into 4th. And, if it was under 45 degrees
out it would nearly kill the engine if you let out the clutch after you
first started it. Under 30 degrees and it would kill it. Add to that,
that Dana 24 was pretty stiff too until the oil got hot. I switched to
this oil, and the clash has for the most part dissappeared. It will
still scratch on a rare occasion, hell, it's over 30 years old and never
been apart. Starting up even on the coldest morning can be accomplished
in neutral with the clutch out. And it just seems to pull smoother at
speed, less of a bind from the transfer case.

Another thing that helps that though is I also use Mobillube 75-90 gear
lube. It's also fully synthetic, and for over the road trucks, used by
Eaton in their drive axles. It used to be, you could hardly push my
truck by hand, and would actually sit idling in neutral on some slight
inclines (no parking brake). Now it rolls on the slightest incline, and
two people can actually push it. Even on a cold morning.

I don't track my mileage, because I'm always hogging the 4 bbl, but I
know it's improved. It has to have. BTW, I'm using Mobil 1 15w 50 in
that rattling piece of crap engine (I know, forged pistons are supposed
to rattle, right?) I've got, (that still pulls hard to 6000 rpms
regularly, I just can't seem to scatter it so I can have an excuse to
build my other engine) and I saw the oil pressure go from 30 psi when
hot to 50. What's amazing though, is that when you start it up it only
goes up to 58. Before it went up to 68 (with 10w40 Penzoil)when cold.
Now, I have had some oil leaks to fix. The end seals on the intake have
made a mess of everything, but I think that's because whoever put it
together didn't know how to seal an engine up. Like knowing that you
don't really need .008-.015 skirt clearance with forged pistons. (I put
a feeler guage to some of them when I was changing the oil pan gasket,
geez!) :-)
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 06:28:30 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FLASHERS FIXED, NOW TRANSMISSION SHIFT SLOW

>
> Thanks to all who responded regarding slow turn signals. I found the
> other flasher, (didn't realize the truck had two separate ones). Replaced
> the other flasher and the signals work fine.
>
> Another unrelated problem is slowly shifting C6. When the truck is cold,
> it takes about two miles before the transmission warms up, and until it does
> it will not shift into high gear. Once warm, it shifts fine. I also have a
> slight leak in the front of the trans. Does it have to come out to replace
> the seal?

Is it a C-6, or the cast-iron Cruise-o-Matic in your '66? I've had a
couple of Cruise-o-Matics that did this, and was told it was due to a
worn out pump. Another thing I've had is a Cruise-o-Matic that wouldn't
shift into high until about 80 mph, and would DOWNSHIFT back to second
if you dropped back to 75. Exciting. I never took the time to fix it,
and it would still chirp the tires manually shifting to 2nd, I finally
sold it. I've never had a C-6 do this, even with a 150,000 miles, so I
can't help you there. Also, I've not run across a tranny yet that
didn't have to be seperated from the engine to change a front seal.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 06:37:08 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hypereut's and nitrous

> how do you identify the Hypereutectic pistons? these that i have with all the
> 351 w stuff that i'm trying to sell look like cast construction underneath,
> but on the outside they look like forged. they are new but are not in the
> original box. so i'm not sure what brand they are.

It's getting harder to tell cast from forged pistons from the outside
anymore, most all of them are diamond-turned these days and have a
pretty outside finish. Used to be cast pistons were dull looking. I
saw a set of Badgers at the store the other day, and you talk about
pretty. They looked like someone had polished them up.

If those pistons you're looking at are Keith Black pistons, you need to
set up the ring gaps according to their specs, or you'll rip the ring
lands off when it gets warmed up.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 06:40:18 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Turn signal bulb

> While I'm still awake. What's the difference between a 2057na and a 1157na
> bulb. I changed one on my mother-in-laws G!#$! Am yesterday. After skinning
> my knuckles I got it (the 2057) out and it looked fine. I replaced it with
> an 1157

I think the 1157 is a single element, and the 2057 is a double. Not
sure, but I'll look next time I'm at the store. (if I think of it)
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 08:21:14 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400W

John LaG. writes: >>When you say 400W do you mean the 400, 335 series? I
didn't know they ever
made a 400 in the windsor block?
>>Are you talking about a "stroker" Windsor?
>>400ci W ? wow, that's scarey sounding ...

I did not say FOMOCO made a 400 W. I said I'm goint to make a 400 W. Not the
same...
The bores are the same. The main and rod journals are the same. The bore
spacing is the same. Cam I'm not sure of yet, but I think all the 351's used
the same firing order, and the cam journals should be the same, so maybe an
early 351BOSS or C cam might work. Some of them were solid lifter, and ran very
well.
I hope to insert a 400 crank and pistons in a 351W. That would make a 400W
would it not???
I'm pretty sure it can be done, but I've not tried it yet. I'm gathering
pieces, and when I've got all the required parts, I'll try it and let you guys
know how it turned out.

Azie


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 08:41:10 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cu In

Darrell D. writes: >>
There is a way to use a 400 crank in a 351w, with mopar 360 rods, and you get
something like a 427.

Darrell, I hate to break this to you, but rod length has nothing to do with the
displacement. Only the bore and stroke. ie Volume = Pi X R2 X L. This gives
the volume for one cylinder, so multiply by the # of cyls and you have Cu In.
The rod length merely keeps the piston in the correct place of the cylinder. It
has to be a certain length in order to keep the piston from protuding out the
top of the block at TDC and keep the piston away from the crank at BDC.
Dfferent Mfg's use different length rods in basically the same bore and stroke
engines(so basically the same displacement), to maintain certain piston speeds
at given rpms. Hence "different strokes for different folks".

Hope this helps.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 08:45:42 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 4R70W

Rade writes: >>If you don't mind buying a stand-alone
tranny controller then an 4R70W would be the one to get, it is an AOD-E with
a wide ratio gear set which gives it a lower first gear, always a good
thing.

Does Baumann Engineering make this controller??? What is the going Rate?? What
vehicles was the 4R70W offered in?? Is it physically the same size as the AOD??

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 08:51:48 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1157 vs 2057

Ted writes: >>While I'm still awake. What's the difference between a 2057na and
a 1157na
bulb. I changed one on my mother-in-laws G!#$! Am yesterday. After skinning
my knuckles I got it (the 2057) out and it looked fine. I replaced it with
an 1157 and everything works fine. The manual says 2057, but the 1157 seems
to be alright.

I think the 1st set of #'s designate the candle power (wattage - brightness - or
whatever). 11 doesn't mean 11cp nor does 20 mean 20cp, necessarily, but I'm
pretty sure that these #'s have to do with the cp.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:17:11 EDT
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 4R70W

Yes they make a jam up one. Contact them for the current price. It works
like a champ.


- ----Original Message Follows----
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
To: 61-79-list Ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 4R70W
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 08:45:42 -0400
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Rade writes: >>If you don't mind buying a stand-alone
tranny controller then an 4R70W would be the one to get, it is an AOD-E with
a wide ratio gear set which gives it a lower first gear, always a good
thing.

Does Baumann Engineering make this controller??? What is the going Rate??
What
vehicles was the 4R70W offered in?? Is it physically the same size as the
AOD??

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 08:20:12 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - badges

>>how in the heck do you get the "F-?50" badges
off the fenders?? without breaking them off,,,,

Badges? We don't need no stinking badges. Oh, wrong movie. Seriously, just
pry them off very gingerly with a flat tip screw driver, a little bit at a
time all of the way around until they come off. There is a metal retainer
(may be plastic on some trucks)that fits in the hole drilled in the fender.
The legs on the badges are tapered so that as you insert the badge, the
retainer expands behind the fender enough to hold it all on. It works in a
similar fashion to a sheetrock anchor. There are no tangs to press or tricks
or special tools. If you pry too much out on one side, you will break off a
leg or two. You can get by without one leg but if you break off more than
one you will need to use glue or your creative genius to reattach the badge.
I drilled and tapped the "D" on my hood, put in a stud and some RTV, voila!
Long term corrosion may make this excercise extremely frustrating.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:36:27 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - tough shifting 4spd

Alright Stock Man,

You got me on the air powered pump.....nothing like the right tool for the
job....

What plug are you talking about?

I usually will fill up the tranny all the way to the top until the oil pours
out into the cab.....if a little is good, wouldn't more be better?

I hope nobody is believing me.....

CJ
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:53:19 EDT
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - tough shifting 4spd

YOU DONE IT>>>>>
There are those of us that just have a wife or kid and we know about pulling
the shifter and taking the plug out and when the fluid flows then yelling at
the wife and putting the plug in.....
Don't worry....keep smiling


- ----Original Message Follows----
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - tough shifting 4spd
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:36:27 EDT
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Alright Stock Man,

You got me on the air powered pump.....nothing like the right tool for the
job....

What plug are you talking about?

I usually will fill up the tranny all the way to the top until the oil pours
out into the cab.....if a little is good, wouldn't more be better?

I hope nobody is believing me.....

CJ
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 07:02:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Book on Differentials

Brett wrote:
> I went and photo-copied the rebuild sections from a couple of
> different sources; Chiltons, Motor, Haynes, etc. and then went
> home and studied them all.

Good advice, so I got out the Chiltons and Haynes and started
looking at them too.

> Can you identify any of the shrapnel as being from some piece
> other than the ring and pinion? Spider gears? Bearings?

I guess I used the wrong term. In the differential there are four
gears, two side gears on the axles and two pinion gears. Are these
the ones called spider gears? The Chilton's I have here seems to
differentiate them from the ring and pinion by saying "drive pinion"
and "differential pinion". I'm just trying to learn from the books
so I don't know what people commonly call them.

Looking at exploded views it seems like some differentials such as
Eatons and Rockwells have a spider and four pinion gears instead of
two on a shaft like the Dana 44 and 60. That must be where the
spider gear term comes from.

I see the Chilton's does talk some about failure modes. It shows
a picture of fractured differential pinion and side gears and says
"The usual cause is a sudden excessive load, as might be caused
by sudden clutch engagement at high engine speed. Another cause
is a rapidly spinning wheel suddenly reaching a good traction
area." I know it sounds obvious when you read it, but it kind of
puts into perspective the combination of a high torque motor and
big tires can really put some stress on your driveline, depending
mostly on how YOU drive it.

> As far as parts go, the factory Dana and Timken parts are pretty
> tough. I've ordered parts through Reider Racing and DTS with
> satisfaction.

Thanks for the leads. I am finding Timken is pretty universally
thought of as one of the best. Also, a place called West Coast
Differentials, www.differentials.com, came highly recommeded by
a friend for parts. Anyone have experience with them?

Anyways, back to the books. :)


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 10:21:57 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Book on Differentials

I don't recall the original post. Which rear are you trying to
rebuild/setup again?

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 07:28:44 PDT
From: "White Wolf"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Turn signal bulb

I believe that it is 1156 is a single and 1157 is a double.


>I think the 1157 is a single element, and the 2057 is a double. Not
>sure, but I'll look next time I'm at the store. (if I think of it)


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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:55:47 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Friendly street match

> On the way home from fixing the front wheel bearings in my Audi, I ran
> accoss a local guy in what looked to be a 67-8 F-100 shortbed on the
> highway home. I assume he had a smaller FE. Anyway before I
> knew it both
> of our old trucks were flying down the four-lane at 100.
> Consensus would
> say I won, because he could never catch up with me. Then I had
> to turn to
> go home.
>
Good kill? This sounds like something I'd read out of the Mustang boards,
only probably sounded a lot cooler :)

I still can't stand the sounds of a F.I. 5.0 with headers and a huge exhaust
on it, just too hollow, no meat to it ... that's part of the reason my 4.6
still has the stock exhaust on it, don't want that hollow sound...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 08:23:01 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 4R70W

Yes they do. I have no idea how much. They are used in light duty
applications in F-Series trucks (F-150's with 4.2 & 4.6L). It should be the
same size as an AOD... :^)

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
To: 61-79-list Ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, August 24, 1999 5:42 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 4R70W


>Rade writes: >>If you don't mind buying a stand-alone
>tranny controller then an 4R70W would be the one to get, it is an AOD-E
with
>a wide ratio gear set which gives it a lower first gear, always a good
>thing.
>
>Does Baumann Engineering make this controller??? What is the going Rate??
What
>vehicles was the 4R70W offered in?? Is it physically the same size as the
AOD??
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>
>
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 11:13:32 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Core Support (Splash Panel)

I got my core support off this morning. Thank God for penetrating oil and
impact wrenches. The bolts where it's attached to the frame are rusted but
good. I just grabbed what was left of the panel and ripped it off. Can't
get the impact on the frame bolts, now where did I put that
torch.................


Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH
' 64 F-250
352 transplant
4 speed
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:19:28 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD

>From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD
>
>In answer to your questions, yes the E40d was
>offered behind 351's as the standard auto tranny
>once the c-6 was phased out ('90-'91 I think).

Yo Rade, et al:

Just a note about C6s. The C6 and E4OD co-existed for several years. Last time
I contemplated buying a new truck, the C6 was still available for heavy-duty
towing in 1996 F350s. I know it was available in the F350 4x4 standard cab and
in the 4x2 DRW trucks w/ the 460 engine. It might have been available w/ a
Powerstroke diesel, too, but I wasn't looking at those. I don't know if it was
available after 1996.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 08:40:54 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD

I wasn't even thinking about big block pattern trannys, but you are right.
However I think the small block pattern C-6 went bye-bye within a year or
two of the E40D being introduced.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Resch
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, August 24, 1999 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD


>>From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
>>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AOD & E4OD
>>
>>In answer to your questions, yes the E40d was
>>offered behind 351's as the standard auto tranny
>>once the c-6 was phased out ('90-'91 I think).
>
>Yo Rade, et al:
>
>Just a note about C6s. The C6 and E4OD co-existed for several years. Last
time
>I contemplated buying a new truck, the C6 was still available for
heavy-duty
>towing in 1996 F350s. I know it was available in the F350 4x4 standard cab
and
>in the 4x2 DRW trucks w/ the 460 engine. It might have been available w/ a
>Powerstroke diesel, too, but I wasn't looking at those. I don't know if it
was
>available after 1996.
>
>Dave R. (M-block devotee)
>
>
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 10:36:46 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 400W

> I did not say FOMOCO made a 400 W. I said I'm goint to make a
> 400 W. Not the
> same...

> I hope to insert a 400 crank and pistons in a 351W. That would
> make a 400W
> would it not???

I can't find it now, but man it seems like I saw somewhere that someone had
done this and had some documentation on the web... I just wish I could
remember where! Maybe someone else out there has seen this ? Seems like a
lot of cutting on the counter weights was required, but that could just be
me misremembering stuff ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:37:48 -0700
From: MC
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gear ratio

Hi guys. I've been trying to figure out the gear ratio of my old truck,
but seem to be stuck. The tag says 313 in the bottom right corner, but I
didn't believe it, so I jacked up one tire and spun the tire. I couldn't
remember whether to spin it twice, or what, but I got about 1.6
revolutions of the driveline for 1 rev of the tire and about 3.2 revs
with 2 revs of the tire.

So could my ratio really be 3.13? I thought that I saw a 3.50 on the tag
when I bought it, but if it is 3.13, then that would explain why it
cruised so good on the freeway, why it made such nasty noises when in
4wd(even in soft stuff), and why I exploded my transfer case over the
4th of July.

- --
Matt Cozad
When everything's coming your way, you're in the wrong lane.

[||||||]=[|00|]=(|____________________)


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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 10:30:41 -0700
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 1157 vs 2057

It is wattage. Both the 1157 and 2057 are dual filament bulbs. The 1156 is
a single.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ecom.sylvania.com/osicatalog/multiresult.asp?Item=36561 Spec on 1157
lamps.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ecom.sylvania.com/osicatalog/multiresult.asp?Item=37627 Spec on 2057
lamps. (although this is spec for a 2057NA, which is the amber colored lamp
which is being discontinued, but should be the same watts/amps as the
clear.)

Waay more info than you were lookin for, huh?
Happy to be of service.
Rich

- -----Original Message-----
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com [mailto:am14 daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 1999 5:52 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1157 vs 2057


Ted writes: >>While I'm still awake. What's the difference between a 2057na
and
a 1157na
bulb. I changed one on my mother-in-laws G!#$! Am yesterday. After skinning
my knuckles I got it (the 2057) out and it looked fine. I replaced it with
an 1157 and everything works fine. The manual says 2057, but the 1157 seems
to be alright.

I think the 1st set of #'s designate the candle power (wattage - brightness
- - or
whatever). 11 doesn't mean 11cp nor does 20 mean 20cp, necessarily, but I'm
pretty sure that these #'s have to do with the cp.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 11:09:57 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1157-2057

>What's the difference between a 2057na and a 1157na bulb.

My understanding is that 2057 is for later models(something to do with
all the electronic equipment on later models)The lamps are
interchangable and the 2057 is said to last longer.
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 11:35:52 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cu In

>Darrell D. writes: >>
>There is a way to use a 400 crank in a 351w, with mopar 360 rods, and you get
>something like a 427.

I'm pretty sure I've seen this on someone's web site...
Not sure where, but Dave Williams site seems a likely place:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/42/


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 11:46:20 -0700
From: Clare Waterman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors

Hi guys- ive been out of the loop for a bit as i've moved from north
carolina to san diego and started a new job.

so i am looking around to replace my motor- kragen auto parts has 390's for
~$1000 they come from Bonded with a 12/12 warantee. does anyone have
experience with motors from them?

also-

i remember back a while i read a thread that mentioned an all ford truck
junkyard in the san diego area odes anyone have info onthis?

thsanks


clare

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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 13:56:36 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Cu In

> Not sure where, but Dave Williams site seems a likely place:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/42/
>
>
Yup, as soon as you mentioned it I knew that's where I'd seen it. In his
case it was a 351C crank in a 302 block so I don't know how much would be
applicable ... anyway Azie, if you want/need the info off of that page/site
let one of us know, i'm sure we can email it to you directly ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 12:12:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bonded Motors

Wow, first Gary, then Delanty, now Clare, pretty soon Deacon
is gonna pop in here. Old time FTE week :-)

Clare asks:
>
> Hi guys- ive been out of the loop for a bit as i've moved from north
> carolina to san diego and started a new job.
>

Welcome Back :-)

> so i am looking around to replace my motor- kragen auto parts has 390's for
> ~$1000 they come from Bonded with a 12/12 warantee. does anyone have
> experience with motors from them?

No direct experience, but we have "kicked" around buying rebuilt
motors here before -lots of horror stories to go around. Remember,
you're buying someone elses problems. They are guarenteed for 12/12,
but only the motor. You supply the labor. Someone posted about
changing motors 3-4 times. No Thanks!

I'd recommend:

1) Find a good machine shop, pull your motor and rebuild it. It
will cost the same or less, and you'll have a MUCH better engine.

2) If you need to drive the truck while rebuilding, find a used
running 360/390 from a wrecker. Install it, and then take your
time on the rebuild. You'll learn all kinds of stuff, and you
have the use of FTE as a nearly unlimited resource :-)
When you're ready to install your rebuild, put the used engine
in the classifieds. You may even get your money back out
of it if people can listen to it run before purchasing.

> i remember back a while i read a thread that mentioned an all ford truck
> junkyard in the san diego area odes anyone have info onthis?

Sorry, too far from me . . .
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 14:16:28 -0500
From: Michael Ray Jones
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 temp sending unit

Can someone point me in the right direction to the temp sending unit on
my 77 F150 460? My temp guage is not working, and I thought I'd start
there. Anybody have any other hints?
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 14:41:12 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 temp sending unit

>
> Can someone point me in the right direction to the temp sending unit on
> my 77 F150 460? My temp guage is not working, and I thought I'd start
> there. Anybody have any other hints?

That's a good place to start... it should be on the intake manifold
somewhere ... most of the ones i work on (W's and FE's) its right in front
of the carb on the pass. side ... but i think I heard that the 460's had
them on the rear of the intake behind it ? Anyway once you find it (just
threads into the intake, if you remove it without letting some of the
anti-freeze out it will leak badly) just unplug the wire going to it and
then try and ground it out, with the key on this should cause the gauge go
peg at H. If this happens then the problem is the sending unit, if it
doesn't, start chasing the wire and see if you can find a break in it, or a
bad ground somewhere...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 15:55:24 EDT
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes

Hey all
i knoiw this isnt FTE content here but i do want to know if any one has
replaced the front wheel brakes on a 88 blazer(its one girls car go figure
they drive chevys). it has 4x4 i have replaced brakes on my car and i was
just curious if they pretty much are all the same and i just wanted to know
if im gonna get in over my head on this
FTE content i found a guy that lives in my town who has a truck EXACTLY like
mine only his looks brand new. i will have to talk to him and find out if
what his trick was in putting it together
thanks
travis
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 15:07:36 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Brakes

> i knoiw this isnt FTE content here but i do want to know if any one has
> replaced the front wheel brakes on a 88 blazer(its one girls car
> go figure
> they drive chevys). it has 4x4 i have replaced brakes on my car
> and i was
> just curious if they pretty much are all the same and i just
> wanted to know
> if im gonna get in over my head on this


Brakes all work on the same principles (funny how physics is), so it should
be very similar to yours yes ... if she has ABS watch to be sure its turned
right if you have the rotors turned or it can mess things up.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 16:37:30 EDT
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes

In a message dated 8/24/99 3:15:09 PM Central Daylight Time, wish iastate.edu
writes:



Brakes all work on the same principles (funny how physics is), so it should
be very similar to yours yes ... if she has ABS watch to be sure its turned
right if you have the rotors turned or it can mess things up.

Just my $.02
wish

>>

ok i dont think it has ABS but i dont think we are gonna turn rotors probally
just gonna pull it apart and throw pads on and call it a deal. but the car
has had a really bad squek and i think its the safety deal im gonna pull off
the wheel and see what its like bfore i go digging into it. its amazing what
a 17 year old girl can do to a truck. like it had no exhaist at one point
and it has bald tires. hmm i think i really wonder what im gettting into here
oh well she would really like it so mighht as well
Travis

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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 15:23:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Book on Differentials

OX wrote:
> I don't recall the original post. Which rear are you trying to
> rebuild/setup again?

Dana 44 front.

Mark
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Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 21:06:07 -0700
From: Juan Briones
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum Diagram Van76,E150,351W,V8

i have 76 Econoline 150, 351W, V8 automatic, i am in need of a complete
Vac Diagram that fits my van, i went to the local library and i pulled
out (p3-59) 76 Mitchell truck repair manual and it was not good.
i know that i have a three port PVS one port goes to the Carb and the
other two are pluged.
The Vac diagram is very important to me, because when my Air
Conditioning is on, and driving on the highway, on acceleration the Air
changes to the defrost ducts. i have to disacelerate so the air comes
back to the regular vents.
i hope somebody has access to Ford Dealer vacuum diagram.
Thanks for the help.
Juan

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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 19:21:35 -0400
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum Diagram Van76,E150,351W,V8

Go to your local NAPA store and for under $100 you can get either a rebuilt
one or just the part.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Juan Briones
To:
Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 1999 12:06 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum Diagram Van76,E150,351W,V8


> i have 76 Econoline 150, 351W, V8 automatic, i am in need of a complete
> Vac Diagram that fits my van, i went to the local library and i pulled
> out (p3-59) 76 Mitchell truck repair manual and it was not good.
> i know that i have a three port PVS one port goes to the Carb and the
> other two are pluged.
> The Vac diagram is very important to me, because when my Air
> Conditioning is on, and driving on the highway, on acceleration the Air
> changes to the defrost ducts. i have to disacelerate so the air comes
> back to the regular vents.
> i hope somebody has access to Ford Dealer vacuum diagram.
> Thanks for the help.
> Juan
>
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>
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 17:37:02 PDT
From: "George Litton"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400W

Azie,
I hope you have a lot of money for Mallory Metal to balance that thing. The
combo has been a dream of mine for sometime, but I can't afford to balance
it.

You have to reduce the counterweights of the 400 crank by an inch to make it
fit in the windsor block. If you have access to a crank grinder, that is a
piece of cake. I tried to do it in a lathe, and the interupted cut on the
bit just tore things up, not to mention junking the crank. That crank was
already junk, but I wanted to try to see if it could be done.

I work in a machine shop surrounded by horsepower junkies, so this is not a
new combo to us.

As for cam, you need to use the windsor cam, as a cleveland cam will not
fit.

Piston pin height is another problem for you to address. Keith Black makes
a hyperutectic piston for this combo, though. I don't have a web address
here, but they are part of Silvolite, who was have a web-page.

It is a cool project. Good Luck.

George in Coeur d'Alene, ID.


>From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list Ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400W
>Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 08:21:14 -0400
>
>John LaG. writes: >>When you say 400W do you mean the 400, 335 series? I
>didn't know they ever
>made a 400 in the windsor block?
> >>Are you talking about a "stroker" Windsor?
> >>400ci W ? wow, that's scarey sounding ...
>
>I did not say FOMOCO made a 400 W. I said I'm goint to make a 400 W. Not
>the
>same...
>The bores are the same. The main and rod journals are the same. The bore
>spacing is the same. Cam I'm not sure of yet, but I think all the 351's
>used
>the same firing order, and the cam journals should be the same, so maybe an
>early 351BOSS or C cam might work. Some of them were solid lifter, and ran
>very
>well.
>I hope to insert a 400 crank and pistons in a 351W. That would make a 400W
>would it not???
>I'm pretty sure it can be done, but I've not tried it yet. I'm gathering
>pieces, and when I've got all the required parts, I'll try it and let you
>guys
>know how it turned out.
>
>Azie
>
>
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 17:39:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine Rebuild Update

Before I read any of the replies to my post on engine
rebuild, I swapped my 351C short block and C6 case for
a 400 short block and C6 case. It will cost me a
little to change cases on the C6, but I don't have to
bore now. I will put rings and bearings in the 400 and
use my 4V Clevland heads. I did this not because of
any worry about boring (I was only going +.010 or
+.020 just to clean up the cylinders), but because I
wanted more cubes and longer stroke to enhance the low
RPM power and provide vacuum and Venturi velocity. The
high compression 4V heads will provide great power and
the cam and free flowing ports will keep it coming
throughout the power band. I may give up a few RPM's,
but in a race it's the guy that gets there first that
wins, not the one who revs the highest.

Now I need to find out where to get adapters to use my
Edelbrock Intake(351C-4V) with the 4V heads on the 400
block. In a prior list someone gave a name of a
company in Ark, I haven't yet contacted them, but I
thought Offenhauser or someone made something that I
could use. Thanks to everyone for your help.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 19:47:47 -0500
From: Kevin Grabow
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1157 vs 2057

Actually Sylvania's numbers are a little misleading. They are exactly the
same bulb, shape, wattage, volts and life. The difference is in the dimmer
element (non blinking?), which on the 2057NA has 18.855 lumens compared
to the 1157 which has 27.654 lumens. The difference is in the amps, which
of course affects wattage, but in this case for only one element. To get a
longer
lasting bulb you'd need a a suffix of LL.

Now that's way more info than ya need!

Southerland, Rich wrote:

> It is wattage. Both the 1157 and 2057 are dual filament bulbs. The 1156 is
> a single.
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ecom.sylvania.com/osicatalog/multiresult.asp?Item=36561 Spec on 1157
> lamps.
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ecom.sylvania.com/osicatalog/multiresult.asp?Item=37627 Spec on 2057
> lamps. (although this is spec for a 2057NA, which is the amber colored lamp
> which is being discontinued, but should be the same watts/amps as the
> clear.)
>
> Waay more info than you were lookin for, huh?
> Happy to be of service.
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com [mailto:am14 daimlerchrysler.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 1999 5:52 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1157 vs 2057
>
> Ted writes: >>While I'm still awake. What's the difference between a 2057na
> and
> a 1157na
> bulb. I changed one on my mother-in-laws G!#$! Am yesterday. After skinning
> my knuckles I got it (the 2057) out and it looked fine. I replaced it with
> an 1157 and everything works fine. The manual says 2057, but the 1157 seems
> to be alright.
>
> I think the 1st set of #'s designate the candle power (wattage - brightness
> - or
> whatever). 11 doesn't mean 11cp nor does 20 mean 20cp, necessarily, but I'm
> pretty sure that these #'s have to do with the cp.
>
> Azie
> Ardmore, Al.
>
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> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 21:12:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: crewcab altavista.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 64 CrewCab is Rollin!

Lots happening past few weeks, but unable to post due to
being on a 'forbidden' free email account. New account,
new news. A short version here, to be expounded upon
later.

I have all new tires, the new bushings and replaced
springs feels GREAT! It's good to be driving the truck
again. Love them bias ply tires that take many miles to
warm up and lose the flat spots!

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab

- ----------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 21:43:37 EDT
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Rebuild Update

Its D&A automotive. You might call John Hamilton Jr., Sardis, Ga. or a 912
area code. I also saw where Edelbrock makes a spacer thing for this
application. Good luck, it will fly and have the power to pull stumps. You
now have the best of both worlds and not everyone has one like it.


- ----Original Message Follows----
From: Dan Lee
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine Rebuild Update
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 17:39:13 -0700 (PDT)
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Before I read any of the replies to my post on engine
rebuild, I swapped my 351C short block and C6 case for
a 400 short block and C6 case. It will cost me a
little to change cases on the C6, but I don't have to
bore now. I will put rings and bearings in the 400 and
use my 4V Clevland heads. I did this not because of
any worry about boring (I was only going +.010 or
+.020 just to clean up the cylinders), but because I
wanted more cubes and longer stroke to enhance the low
RPM power and provide vacuum and Venturi velocity. The
high compression 4V heads will provide great power and
the cam and free flowing ports will keep it coming
throughout the power band. I may give up a few RPM's,
but in a race it's the guy that gets there first that
wins, not the one who revs the highest.

Now I need to find out where to get adapters to use my
Edelbrock Intake(351C-4V) with the 4V heads on the 400
block. In a prior list someone gave a name of a
company in Ark, I haven't yet contacted them, but I
thought Offenhauser or someone made something that I
could use. Thanks to everyone for your help.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 18:46:42 -0700
From: "Christeen Bradley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FLASHERS FIXED, NOW TRANSMISSION SHIFT SLOW

On the Leak, Yes you have to pull the tranny out to replace the front seal.
On the slow to shift, check out your vacuum modulator and line for leaks.
It may reseal when warm and that's the only thing I've ever heard about that
would cause a tranny not to shift into high.

Good Luck
Scott
1966 F-100 shortbox 351C


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 21:30:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re 400W

To get the displacement of an engine you need to multiply bore x
stroke x # of cylinders x Pi (3.14). A 400M has a 4.00" bore and a 4.00"
stroke and 8 cylinders. (4.00 X 4.00 X 8 X 3.14 = 401.92 CID). A 351W
has a 4.00 bore and a 3.50 stroke (351.68 CID).
A common build up for the 351W is to use a 400 crank in a 351W block
(which requires some block modification to clear the crank
counterweights and connecting rods) and a .030" overbore. With this you
get a motor that displaces 404.93 (405 CID).
The "427" mentioned earlier is a 351W block and a 400M crank that has
been machined down to accept a Chrysler rod (this allows one to machine
the crank throws off center to add a longer stroke). this is a very
difficult process and requires a special piston to be cut just for the
combination (I know Keith Black has the pattern for it).

Laters, Danny

77 F250 Hiboy 4X4, 429 "Thunder Jet"

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 20:34:01 -0600
From: "JT Kelly"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Gear ratio

Not sure what year truck your talking about but on my 69 there is a code on the tag on the jam of the driver side door. Post what that says and you can tell for sure as the tire size dictates the effective ratio.

JT
- --

On Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:37:48 MC wrote:
>Hi guys. I've been trying to figure out the gear ratio of my old truck,
>but seem to be stuck. The tag says 313 in the bottom right corner, but I
>didn't believe it, so I jacked up one tire and spun the tire. I couldn't
>remember whether to spin it twice, or what, but I got about 1.6
>revolutions of the driveline for 1 rev of the tire and about 3.2 revs
>with 2 revs of the tire.
>
>So could my ratio really be 3.13? I thought that I saw a 3.50 on the tag
>when I bought it, but if it is 3.13, then that would explain why it
>cruised so good on the freeway, why it made such nasty noises when in
>4wd(even in soft stuff), and why I exploded my transfer case over the
>4th of July.
>
>--
>Matt Cozad
>When everything's coming your way, you're in the wrong lane.
>
> [||||||]=[|00|]=(|/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_)
>
>
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Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 22:42:30 EDT
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Rebuild Update

My friend I told you wrong...here is the facts.

Because the M-block has a taller deck height than the 351C engine block, the
M-block's cylinder heads are farther apart than the 351C's and intake
manifolds designed for the 351C will not fit on the M-block engine. However,
Weiand and Moroso both make adapters that will allow you to use a 351C
manifold on an M-block engine. Since intake manifolds are made specifically
for the M-block, the only reason you'd need the adapters is if you wanted to
use the 351C 4V cylinder heads (which have much bigger intake ports than the
351C 2V or M-block heads) and a 351C 4V intake manifold.

You can see this and other tech support and hotrod about the engine here.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/mblock.html
Good luck,,,

- ----Original Message Follows----
From: "Gerald Ash"
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Rebuild Update
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 21:43:37 EDT
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Its D&A automotive. You might call John Hamilton Jr., Sardis, Ga. or a 912
area code. I also saw where Edelbrock makes a spacer thing for this
application. Good luck, it will fly and have the power to pull stumps. You
now have the best of both worlds and not everyone has one like it.


- ----Original Message Follows----
From: Dan Lee
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine Rebuild Update
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 17:39:13 -0700 (PDT)
MIME-Version: 1.0
>From owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com Tue Aug 24 17:51:14 1999....


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