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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #295
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61-79-list-digest Monday, August 23 1999 Volume 03 : Number 295



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Shock Tower
FTE 61-79 - Book on differentials?
FTE 61-79 - Locking Hubs
Re: FTE 61-79 - Book on differentials?
FTE 61-79 - Turn Signal Problems
FTE 61-79 - Re: Cylinder Hone
FTE 61-79 - JL Audio
FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question
FTE 61-79 - STARTING TROUBLES.....
Re: FTE 61-79 - STARTING TROUBLES.....
Re: FTE 61-79 - logos and t shirts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 08:23:00 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Shock Tower

Hey Grady,

The part you are looking for is a little hard to find, but I know they are
out there. However, what I would do in that situation is take the part off
and repair it. I'll bet a friend of local welding shop can re-weld up the
holes, drill new ones, and maybe even add some strengthening plates to the
outside.

Also, if you truck has a lift kit, you can even have the unit extended down.
I had all of this done on my bracket.....

Good luck!

CJ


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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 09:14:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Book on differentials?

In the ongoing saga trying to fix my brakes I noticed that I had a problem
in my front axle. With both rotors and locking hubs off I felt a tick,
tick
as I turned the axle shaft.

I pulled the cover off and found I have two broken teeth on one
differential
pinion gear and one on the other. Anyone know what would cause this type
of failure?

Since I would rather buy more tools than pay someone else to rebuild the
axle, I have decided to try it myself. The Ford service manual has a
description for disassembling, assembling, and setting up the axle. I am
finding it a little hard to read.

Does anyone know of a good book on this sort of thing?

While I am in there, are there any stronger aftermarket parts I should
consider?

This is a Dana 44 on my F-100.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 09:15:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Locking Hubs

I have one original Ford locking hub on one side and a Mile Marker hub on
the other. I have no idea how it got this way, but if I am going to
rebuild my front axle, I would at least like to have them match.

I don't suppose there is anyplace, besides Ford and a boneyard, where I
could buy just one locking hub?

Since I will probably have to buy two, any recommendations? On hubs like
Warn or Mile Marker that sell a standard hub and a better one. Is the
better one worth it?


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4


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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 12:26:26 EDT
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Book on differentials?

Check your yellow pages for a bearings and industral drive.
Good work, right price.
ga1998


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Subject: FTE 61-79 - Book on differentials?
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 09:14:19 -0700 (PDT)
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In the ongoing saga trying to fix my brakes I noticed that I had a problem
in my front axle. With both rotors and locking hubs off I felt a tick,
tick
as I turned the axle shaft.

I pulled the cover off and found I have two broken teeth on one
differential
pinion gear and one on the other. Anyone know what would cause this type
of failure?

Since I would rather buy more tools than pay someone else to rebuild the
axle, I have decided to try it myself. The Ford service manual has a
description for disassembling, assembling, and setting up the axle. I am
finding it a little hard to read.

Does anyone know of a good book on this sort of thing?

While I am in there, are there any stronger aftermarket parts I should
consider?

This is a Dana 44 on my F-100.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 10:27:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Douglas Trotter
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Turn Signal Problems

I had a similar problem with my 67' turn signals. The signal became
very slow and ultimately got to the embarassing point were I had to
blink it manually. Finally I broke down and took it to a specialty
auto electric shop.

My problem was a little tougher than yours because my hazard signals
were not blinking. According to the technician, this was due my
nadvertantly switching the turn signal and emergency switches solenoids
during my restoration.

The turn signal problem was a little tougher. Under the dash there is
a male/female connection junction of the underdash wiring harness and
the underhood wiring harness. The connection of one of the wires in
that junction simply was no longer functioning properly and had to be
bypassed with a splice. The signals work perfectly now.


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 10:28:58 -0700
From: "Christeen Bradley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Cylinder Hone

Sunnen is the best I've ever used but I personally don't own one so I have
no idea as to the cost.

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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 18:00:39 GMT
From: "madness madness"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - JL Audio

As I was buying some stereo accesories for my 79-F100 I was told that JL
audio had been in trouble awhile back. Could someone tell me what happend.
The salesman was not alound to tell me.


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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 11:54:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question

Well I bit the bullet. While my '53 F100 is in the Rod
Shop with the Engine and tranny out, I sent the C6
tranny out for a rebuild & shift kit. I also planned
in sending the heads from the 351C-4V for reseating,
because I knew that there was some problems with the
valves seating. The motor sat for 20+ years. Well it
looks as though I'll be doing a complete rebuild. In
addition to needing bearing inserts, the cylinder
walls show some problems, and the valves need
replacing. I'll need a bore job, pistons, valves,
seats, guides. I am putting in a Crane Cam, lifters,
springs, retainers and roller rockers. I am going with
Manley valves and a roller timing chain.

I have two questions one pertains to something that I
read here several weeks ago. Do I want bronze or
chilled iron valve guides? While I expect great
performance, this is a street rod and may never see a
track. Am I correct that bronze guides are better for
racing, but don't hold up in daily driving like
chilled iron.

The second question is about pistons, surely I want
forged pistons, but do I want hypereutectic alloy? I
remember some discussion about that question as well.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 15:36:55 EDT
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question

Hello Dan,
Let me throw in my two cents. First of all check with any FORD man and he
will tell you that you shouldn't boar the 351C. They are right as it
weakens the webing and you might 75% have a broken block within 10,000 miles
of hotrod driving.
Here is a option. Go with the 351 M engine and keep the Cleveland Heads. I
know of a company that builds an intake maniford, gaskets, ect to put the
Clevland heads on the Mod or W engine. Then you get the best of both
worlds, breathing, cubic inches, and a real hot rod. The company I think is
D&A in Ark. Little Rock or Ft. Smith. Call information and they will send
you a catalog. A friend of mine did this 10 years ago and he was taking
428-460 and eating them on the road. Now at the truck pulls he lost as
there isn't anything that will help torque like cubic inches.
Let me know if you need any research or help and I will relay that guys
phone number and name. Heck, he might even have an email address.
Gerald Ash


- ----Original Message Follows----
From: Dan Lee
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 11:54:52 -0700 (PDT)
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Well I bit the bullet. While my '53 F100 is in the Rod
Shop with the Engine and tranny out, I sent the C6
tranny out for a rebuild & shift kit. I also planned
in sending the heads from the 351C-4V for reseating,
because I knew that there was some problems with the
valves seating. The motor sat for 20+ years. Well it
looks as though I'll be doing a complete rebuild. In
addition to needing bearing inserts, the cylinder
walls show some problems, and the valves need
replacing. I'll need a bore job, pistons, valves,
seats, guides. I am putting in a Crane Cam, lifters,
springs, retainers and roller rockers. I am going with
Manley valves and a roller timing chain.

I have two questions one pertains to something that I
read here several weeks ago. Do I want bronze or
chilled iron valve guides? While I expect great
performance, this is a street rod and may never see a
track. Am I correct that bronze guides are better for
racing, but don't hold up in daily driving like
chilled iron.

The second question is about pistons, surely I want
forged pistons, but do I want hypereutectic alloy? I
remember some discussion about that question as well.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 15:55:59 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - STARTING TROUBLES.....

Hey y'all! Lately my truck has has a slight problem starting. Most of the
time it's after it has been sitting for a few hours after I drive it, so I
know it isn't hot. It'll kinda sputter a few times and most times it'll start
up after a few tries. My shop teacher told me how sometimes when
ya turn the ignition it won't do anything, just be dead so with your left
hand pull up on the shifter lever thingy and it starts up right quick. But I
don't think this is the same thing. I was told it could possiblyy be my
battery? Any help would be much appreciated! =) Bye!

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 16:04:19 EDT
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - STARTING TROUBLES.....

Year?
Make?
ENgine?
Why want it crank. IS it turning over? Is it dead? Do you have EFI and
are mashing the gas? Do you have a aftermarket carb? When you open the
hood and look at the carb, if it has one, does it look like a light coat of
motor oil on it? When was the last time you changed the spark plugs?


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From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
To: offroad-list ford-trucks.com, 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - STARTING TROUBLES.....
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 15:55:59 EDT
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Hey y'all! Lately my truck has has a slight problem starting. Most of the
time it's after it has been sitting for a few hours after I drive it, so I
know it isn't hot. It'll kinda sputter a few times and most times it'll
start
up after a few tries. My shop teacher told me how sometimes when
ya turn the ignition it won't do anything, just be dead so with your left
hand pull up on the shifter lever thingy and it starts up right quick. But I
don't think this is the same thing. I was told it could possiblyy be my
battery? Any help would be much appreciated! =) Bye!

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*
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_______________________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 18:03:49 EDT
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - logos and t shirts

hey
well really i would want something to do with the ford fe engine, just
beacause in my opion i think it was one of the best motors made by ford.
besides the 300-6 of course and the 460 well thanks for the info
Travis
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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 18:45:50 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question

Am I missing something here? How does one get "more cubic inches" from a
351M vs. a 351C? Unless you turn it into a 400 with a 400 crank & pistons,
351ci is 351 ci. Also if you do choose to go this route you'll have to get a
different C6 since the bolt patterns won't match up. I've never heard
anywhere that a 351C shouldn't be bored out but then maybe I've never talked
to a FORD man.

I have heard and read that the iron valve guides are much more durable than
the bronze ones and cheaper to boot. I've never seen forged hypereutectics
only cast.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gerald Ash
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, August 22, 1999 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question


>Hello Dan,
>Let me throw in my two cents. First of all check with any FORD man and he
>will tell you that you shouldn't boar the 351C. They are right as it
>weakens the webing and you might 75% have a broken block within 10,000
miles
>of hotrod driving.
>Here is a option. Go with the 351 M engine and keep the Cleveland Heads.
I
>know of a company that builds an intake maniford, gaskets, ect to put the
>Clevland heads on the Mod or W engine. Then you get the best of both
>worlds, breathing, cubic inches, and a real hot rod. The company I think
is
>D&A in Ark. Little Rock or Ft. Smith. Call information and they will send
>you a catalog. A friend of mine did this 10 years ago and he was taking
>428-460 and eating them on the road. Now at the truck pulls he lost as
>there isn't anything that will help torque like cubic inches.
>Let me know if you need any research or help and I will relay that guys
>phone number and name. Heck, he might even have an email address.



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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 22:24:14 EDT
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question

You are right about the transmission application but totally off with the
not boreing it out. Put your ear to the rock you might hear better over all
the gunfire. Also I didn';t say or imply that there was a difference from
the size of 351. I just hate to see the man loose his money by overboring
this block.



- ----Original Message Follows----
From: "Bill Beyer"
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
To:
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 18:45:50 -0700
>From owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com Sun Aug 22 18:49:42 1999
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Am I missing something here? How does one get "more cubic inches" from a
351M vs. a 351C? Unless you turn it into a 400 with a 400 crank & pistons,
351ci is 351 ci. Also if you do choose to go this route you'll have to get a
different C6 since the bolt patterns won't match up. I've never heard
anywhere that a 351C shouldn't be bored out but then maybe I've never talked
to a FORD man.

I have heard and read that the iron valve guides are much more durable than
the bronze ones and cheaper to boot. I've never seen forged hypereutectics
only cast.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gerald Ash
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, August 22, 1999 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question


>Hello Dan,
>Let me throw in my two cents. First of all check with any FORD man and he
>will tell you that you shouldn't boar the 351C. They are right as it
>weakens the webing and you might 75% have a broken block within 10,000
miles
>of hotrod driving.
>Here is a option. Go with the 351 M engine and keep the Cleveland Heads.
I
>know of a company that builds an intake maniford, gaskets, ect to put the
>Clevland heads on the Mod or W engine. Then you get the best of both
>worlds, breathing, cubic inches, and a real hot rod. The company I think
is
>D&A in Ark. Little Rock or Ft. Smith. Call information and they will send
>you a catalog. A friend of mine did this 10 years ago and he was taking
>428-460 and eating them on the road. Now at the truck pulls he lost as
>there isn't anything that will help torque like cubic inches.
>Let me know if you need any research or help and I will relay that guys
>phone number and name. Heck, he might even have an email address.



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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 19:39:48 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question

Well I can't think of any cast iron blocks that couldn't take a .030
overbore. Now maybe .060 is dicey but I'm having a tough time believing that
this motor couldn't take .030-.040 easy.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gerald Ash
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, August 22, 1999 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question


>You are right about the transmission application but totally off with the
>not boreing it out. Put your ear to the rock you might hear better over
all
>the gunfire. Also I didn';t say or imply that there was a difference from
>the size of 351. I just hate to see the man loose his money by overboring
>this block.



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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 21:52:32 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question

Hyperuectic pistons are stronger than cast, and cheaper than true forged
aluminum pistons. As long as you're not planning on using a blower,
supercharger, twin turbo setup, or a 400 hp nitrous kit, the hyperuectic
pistons will be plenty fine. personally, I'd go with the iron guides.

Jason

Dan Lee wrote:

>
> I have two questions one pertains to something that I
> read here several weeks ago. Do I want bronze or
> chilled iron valve guides? While I expect great
> performance, this is a street rod and may never see a
> track. Am I correct that bronze guides are better for
> racing, but don't hold up in daily driving like
> chilled iron.
>
> The second question is about pistons, surely I want
> forged pistons, but do I want hypereutectic alloy? I
> remember some discussion about that question as well.
>
> Dan Lee
> '53 F100
> 351C-4V
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> >
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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 20:21:51 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question

I have a big problem if its true about never to bore a 351C... just got
mine back and looking forward to hearing it roar....
Mike in Burien
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Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 23:52:20 EDT
From: "Gerald Ash"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question

You seem really knowledgeable about all this and we both are just trying to
help someone else. At least let him do some research and call his auto
dealer(1) then the local machine shop that does engine machine work (2). It
could be safe for a auto that will never see over 4000 rpm but you add
pistons, compression, camshaft, fire water, and a heavy foot and the block
breaks. The reason that people use this engine is that it is Fords HOSS out
the box however when the pony goes lame its time to shoot him in the head
and save you bucks. Now if you have a big old check book, and have to have
the fastest truck on the block then overbore, and replace soon but if you
are putting your savings into this vehicle then get something with a life
expectancy. Do this....Advertise a .30 to .40 overbore C engine in the
newspaper for $100 you want get a reply from any auto engine place. I have
said enough....good evening.


- ----Original Message Follows----
From: "Bill Beyer"
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
To:
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Rebuild Question
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 19:39:48 -0700
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Well I can't think of any cast iron blocks that couldn't take a .030
overbore. Now maybe .060 is dicey but I'm having a tough time believing that
this motor couldn't take .030-.040 easy.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"....


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