From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #292
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61-79-list-digest Friday, August 20 1999 Volume 03 : Number 292



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - free 66 parts
Re: FTE 61-79 - free 66 parts
FTE 61-79 - Curse Word
FTE 61-79 - Spools and lockers!
FTE 61-79 - Lowering ideas
RE: FTE 61-79 - Mustangs are trucks ?
RE: FTE 61-79 - high noses
Re: FTE 61-79 - Spools and lockers!
FTE 61-79 - Vans and Trucks, and perverse psychology
FTE 61-79 - engine support brackets
FTE 61-79 - Re: To the List
FTE 61-79 - FE heads
RE: FTE 61-79 - engine support brackets
FTE 61-79 - C-6
FTE 61-79 - Re: I NEED SOME THINGS
FTE 61-79 - RE: Oil pan removal
FTE 61-79 - Oil leakinf front/rear
FTE 61-79 - Pulling transmission
FTE 61-79 - Oil pan Install (Torque Specs
FTE 61-79 - Shift Improvement Kit woes
FTE 61-79 - a/c relay, fans etc.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vans and Trucks, and perverse psychology
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vans and Trucks, and perverse psychology
FTE 61-79 - Oil Pan Removal --- crank bending
FTE 61-79 - Re: 400 performance
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: To the List
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: To the List
FTE 61-79 - F-100 with a 390
FTE 61-79 - Re: what is OCR?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mustang & Ford
FTE 61-79 - Fw: Fe parts for sale
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mustang & Ford
FTE 61-79 - brakes
FTE 61-79 - a lot of oil leaking around here
Re: FTE 61-79 - a lot of oil leaking around here
Re: FTE 61-79 - Shift Improvement Kit woes
FTE 61-79 - disconnect EGR on 400M
Re: FTE 61-79 - Shift Improvement Kit woes
RE: FTE 61-79 - Mustangs are trucks ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Spools and lockers!
FTE 61-79 - Re: Ignitor
Re: FTE 61-79 - Spools and lockers!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Low power 302's
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: what is OCR?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 400 performance
FTE 61-79 - Re: oil pan removal

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 05:17:56 PDT
From: "White Wolf"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - free 66 parts

I would definitely be interested in the drivers side door and windshield if
not the entire truck... Where are you located at?

Corey Johnson
'66 F100


>I have a 66 F100 that I was using for parts. I need to get rid of what is
>left or will be forced to scrap it. If anyone can use the parts, I will let
>them go for free. The body parts do need some work. I have a pic at
>www.geocities.com/motorcity/shop/2446/projects/66parts.html E-mail me off
>list with any questions.
>
>Phil Beattie


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 05:18:46 PDT
From: "White Wolf"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - free 66 parts

I would definitely be interested in the drivers side door and windshield if
not the entire truck... Where are you located at?

Corey Johnson
'66 F100


>I have a 66 F100 that I was using for parts. I need to get rid of what is
>left or will be forced to scrap it. If anyone can use the parts, I will let
>them go for free. The body parts do need some work. I have a pic at
>www.geocities.com/motorcity/shop/2446/projects/66parts.html E-mail me off
>list with any questions.
>
>Phil Beattie


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 07:44:37 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Curse Word

> Mark McK. writes: >>Is Mazda a curse word here ?
>
> Y E P !.! . !

Don't start in about it just being a Ranger with a little different
angle to it's headlights either. :-)
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 05:52:47 PDT
From: "Mark Mcknight"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Spools and lockers!

I am considering putting a spool in the diff of my truck. I want to have
lots of traction but I also want it to handle good on the road. being 2wd
with a stock rear end I think it needs sumthin like that to run the roads
nicely... Any info about spools or auto/manual Lockers is greatly
appreciated! thanx ya'll byes!

Mark McK

78' F-100 2wd


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 08:05:22 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Lowering ideas

> Has anyone here ever installed one of those fiberglass flip front ends? I'm
> thinking about it with my '67 F100. If anyone has, was it difficult? I
> know the entire front end has to come apart, and I have no problem with
> that. The thing I'm wondering is, how do you keep the front end of the
> truck lower than the rear? My '67 has had the original 352 replaced with a
> 302 and the front of the truck is already level with or higher than the
> rear.

Looks like you need to put a heavier engine back in it. :-) Maybe a
stuttering, screaming FE, or how 'bout a big fat chunky 460? Just a
thought.
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 08:12:42 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Mustangs are trucks ?

> I have had a problem latley with my 92 Mustang Gt. I have gone threw to
> sets of cat converters since I got it. Now I am looking for my
> 3rd set due
> to a pressure crack that has formed in the pipe coming out of
> the manifold.
> What would be the problem here? I am baffiled by it !
> Am i looking at a rebuild or what ?
>
>
Okay, this seems a bit off topic, but because it COULD in some way possibly
affect a truck, I'll give it a shot ... check your motor mounts. Those
5.0's are pretty torquey in the light 'stang body and could be trying to
twist its way right out of there. that's about the only way (aside from
trying to 4x4 with it) that you will get pressures to crack exhaust on those
things. The exhaust is mounted pretty well, but still loose enough to let
the motor move a little bit. Once the motor mounts start to go the motor
moves a lot more ....

Also manual or auto ? Manual will be more prone to this, especially if you
race, and even more so if you race with stickies on the back ...



Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 08:16:14 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - high noses

> > he thing I'm wondering is, how do you keep the front end of the
> > truck lower than the rear? My '67 has had the original 352
> replaced with a
> > 302 and the front of the truck is already level with or
> higher than the
> > rear.

A lot of guys I know are trying to get the front end up with the rest of the
truck, and here you go trying to lower it again :) How about some small
lift blocks under the rear, that way you still have full suspension travel
on both front and rear and won't lose any ride quality ??

another option is new springs on the rear, OR get some springs for the front
designed for a small block application instead of the monster FE (heck even
a 6cyl will have softer springs than an FE)


> Speaking of the front being higher than the rear, mines like
> that too but its
> the original engine, 79 f250 4x4 remember 351M, has some sort
> of snowplow
> package but the back is 3" lower than the front, looks goofy, i
> was thinking
> of just getting a set of 4" lift rear springs, but im not sure
> yet, so any
> ideas as to why the thing points to the sky are appriciated
>

Ian, I'm sure its because of that package, and sagging rear springs too ...
I'll bet if you put a plow and everything on the front it would sag right
down to where it looked pretty much level ... since you're dealing with a
4x4 that I'm sure you play with, I'd go for the lift in the rear like you've
already thought of ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 08:11:40 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Spools and lockers!

Mark Mcknight wrote:
>
> I am considering putting a spool in the diff of my truck. I want to have
> lots of traction but I also want it to handle good on the road.

The way I understant it, spools are not good on the street. They are for
racing purposes only. Sounds like you want one of the many posi units
available. With a spool, there is absolutely no slip-the axles are
locked solid. When you turn a cornerone tire needs to spin faster than
the other because it has more distance to cover. Try this with a spool
and your tires will chirp, grab, bounce and they won't last as long.
My advice-get a posi.

Jason
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 08:20:33 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vans and Trucks, and perverse psychology

> Yeah i should go looking but i have a problem. i think ol blue is gonna have
> to go. my parents said i really should save my money and invest into
> something newer and welll i guesse there right. i would reallly like a
> Bronco 2 or something like that and i really should save my money if i ever
> want something like that. but it was a good ol truck but i think that there
> right because its a real pain to get parts for and so on and so forth any one
> in the iowa area need a good 66 ford f-250 let me know its or sale
> Travis

C'mon Travis, you need to put up a bigger fight than that. Threaten to
shave your head, and pierce your eyebrows.(or Lawd have mercy, your
nose) Tell them you want to start flying ulta-lights. Hell, they'll
probably give you money to help you fix up the old girl just to keep you
out of trouble.

You see, you gotta use a little perverse psychology on them. Let's say
you had a girlfriend a little on the trampy side. Your folks detest
her, and forbid you to see her. Well, just have a buddy who's a little
on the girly side come home with you, and spend all afternoon in your
room with the door shut playing chess. They'll be saying " you know, we
kind of miss that girl you were seein'. :-)
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 08:26:56 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - engine support brackets

If I remember right you just flip them around. You may have to swaop
them side to side, it's been so long I can't remember.



> I am getting ready to replace the 240 engine in my 70 F100, with a 390 and
> was wondering will I need to change the engine support brackets bolted to
> the frame. If so will ones off a 69 F250 that I'm taking the 390 from work
> on it, both are 2wds
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 09:41:03 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: To the List

> I'd like to know if he still needs those 15x5 rims for the 67 and what
> to look for. Perhaps I could dig up a set, but I really don't know much
> about rims. It seems like my uncle has a 67 convert with 'funky' wheels,
and
> he may have the stock ones laying around somewhere.
>
Danger:

Thanks for your kind words. As an update I have one rim on its way from
Alabama and I think the rest will come from Arizona. It was the willingness
of strangers to help others which first brought me to the list. If I can
help others as I have been helped along the way then I think I am honoring
the spirit of the list. This is a great forum and I hope to meet as many of
you as I can. If I ever have occasion to travel I will be sure to try and
meet the area list people.

> BTW:) what is OCR?

OCR stands for Optical Code Reader---via the scanner you can decode the
information into text format which can then be loaded into your favorite word
processor and edited/formated.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 09:53:32 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE heads

William B. writes: >>Funny you should mention that. Steve Salas and myself
were,just this
week, kicking around the idea of collaborating on an article about FE
heads. There's been alot written about the 428 CJ and 427 LR, MR, HR,
and TP heads, but almost nothing about the garden-variety castings. I
have contended for many years that there isn't much difference in the
early 352/390 and the 427 LR and 428 CJ port and chamber wise, that the
performance difference is in the intake and cam. I'm also curious about
the "improvements" made on the '66-'71 heads. Steve is a machinist, and
has some heads to measure, and what we are hoping to find is some real
flow data somewhere to see where they stand.

Hurry up and do it. I'm getting ready to start an FE project and need the data.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 09:16:36 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - engine support brackets

> If I remember right you just flip them around. You may have to swaop
> them side to side, it's been so long I can't remember.
>
I should let Tony field this one as he just did the reverse, but actually
you just have to re mount them in the proper holes, sides stay the same and
everything from what he's tellin me ...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 10:15:21 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6

Rich May writes: >>Are all C-6's 3 speeds?


Yep.!.!. Not even a Lockup torque converter offered.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 10:19:53 -0400
From: Serian
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: I NEED SOME THINGS

> Hey y'all! I need some things and I was wondering
> if any of y'all could tell me where to get them
>

I check the local salvage yards for this kind of
stuff. You'd be surprised at some of the things
that get sent there.

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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 09:23:09 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Oil pan removal

> I would suggest that a new Felpro pan gasket be used in conjunction with
> a thin layer of RTV on both sides (spread with index finger). I would also
> suggest that the pan be "arrow straight" before you install it. This could
> be a great time for a ball peen hammer and block of wood. It might be a good
> idea to put RTV on each and every bolt which holds the pan into place, and
> fill the indents of the pan surface as well.


What I'd do is get the pan off and on a flat surface, work the rail from
the bottom all the way around with a piece of wood taht will fit in the
rail, and a hammer, until it's perfectly flat. Then flip it over and
hold it flat on the edge of a vise with the jaws open a little bigger
than the bolt holes and take the round side of a ball-peen and peen the
holes. This will flatten and retension the pan.

Then, clean the pan rail on the block and on the pan with brake cleaner,
until it's squeaky clean. Run a bead of Ultra-Black silicone around the
pan just to the inside edge of the bolt holes and go around them, don't
smear it with your finger, just a steady 3/16 bead. This will fill the
peened area of the bolt holes. Set the gasket, and squeeze the bubbles
out all the way around it, work it down all the way around for a minute,
and wipe any that squeezes out on the inside around on the edge of the
gasket. Take it underneath, and have an asssistant put a lttle
Ultra-Tack on the bolt threads while you take the silicone and apply a
bead from front to rear to the gaps of the main caps and the timing
cover. It isn't necessary to apply it to both sides of the gasket, but
you can if you want, make it an 1/8 inch bead just to the inside of the
holes but be sure you get a good 1/4 inch lump of it in those two
places, that's where they leak the most.

This is the most imprtant step. I have a 1/4 inch drive Snap-On flex
head ratchet and an extension that will allow me to tighten just clear
of the pan, I highly reccommend a rig of this type for this kind of
torquing. Start your bolts and run them all up till they just touch the
pan, and I mean just touch. Take the ratchet head in the palm of your
hand, not by the handle, you just want the amount of torque you can
apply with your wrist. This is where the flex-head is most valuable.
Start in the middle of the pan and tighten in a cross pattern working
your way to the ends. You need to do it in two steps, so don't squeeze
it too hard the first time around. All you want to do is use your
wrist, keep your shoulder out of it, all you'll feel is your forearm
flexing. Everyone has a differnce in grip strength, I know, so this is
based on mine, I'm probably a little to the high average side, so if you
have a stronger grip go a little to the outside of the palm, not much
because the grip goes away quick when you take the middle finger out of
it. If it's less than average go to the inside toward the thumb. BTW,
the same peocedure applies to valve covers.

With the pan flat and tensioned, sealant applied and good even torque,
still some pans will sweat, especially with synthetic oil. But, this
procedure will give it a good chance of holding, IMHO.
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 10:25:33 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil leakinf front/rear

Garry B. writes: >>
Thanks to all for the advice. I am in fact needing to replace the oil
pan gasket. It is leaking on the front and back and I am getting very
tired of the leaks. In fact since the engine was overhauld some 30,000
miles ago it has not stopped leaking. I have tried tightening the
bolts very gently without putting to much pressure on the pan but the
leaks continue. I finally believe my only alternative is removal and
install new gasket and permatex...Any suggestions or other alternatives
would be greatly appreciated.

I'm sure you are already certain of your diagnosis of where the leak is coming
from, B U T, just for good measure check once again and make sure it isn't your
front and rear crankshaft seals leaking. I'd hate to see you do the pan gasket
replacement and still have the leaks... Just an added precaution here.
The front seal is actually in the timing cover, and can be replaced without
removing the pan. The rear main seal has to have the pan removed in order to be
replaced. Just being cautious.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 10:34:37 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pulling transmission

Jefri H. writes: >>Wrong on the quick change though - it wasn't the throwout.
No, I
couldn't be so lucky. The clicking isn't a clicking - it's a chipping.
Syncro riding and the counter shaft and chipped every gear there. I just put
a bearing kit and new input shaft in it - it all gaged right.

You are haveing the same kind of luck I used to have. Sorry about that.

That pull in under 2 hrs is quite a feat. You surely had some help -- right???

Lakewood should return your money on that bellhousing. Before I gave it away,
I'd sure try Can't do more than say NO!!! ..

Good luck this time.
Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 10:57:31 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil pan Install (Torque Specs

> With the pan flat and tensioned, sealant applied and good even torque,
> still some pans will sweat, especially with synthetic oil. But, this
> procedure will give it a good chance of holding, IMHO.

I like to use the "wrist" torque method also. Usually because I'm too
lazy to get the torque wrench out, but lately because I can't find it.
However, for those who would like the torque specs they are as follows:

V-8 352
Oil Pan Bolts: 10-12 Ft-Lbs.
Oil Pump to Block Bolts: 20-25 Ft-Lbs.
Oil Pick-up tube to Pump: 12-15 Ft-Lbs.
Oil Pan Drain Plug: 15-20 Ft-Lbs.

I have never had a problem with over-torquing or snapping bolts.
Obviously either condition will cause leaks.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 09:57:53 CDT
From: "Bill Richardson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Shift Improvement Kit woes

Hey group,
I decided to hold off on the suspension for right now. I want to get
everything else done and then decide on that. I do have a new problem. I
recently installed a B&M shift improvement kit in the trans. Installation
went okay. However I had friends helping me and a buddy of mine drilled a
hole a 3/16 when it should have been 1/8. (Honestly if wasn't me) All the
rest of the required holes were drilled okay so I decided to go ahead and
finish the installation. I took it down the road, but I can't take it very
far as there is not much metal on it and it's three years out of inspection.
I shifted okay, but it made this annoying high pitched whistling sound. Not
a metal on metal sound just a whistle sort of. Is this right? I haven't
driven it anymore since. I also found out that I have a C-6 hooked up to a
302. I guess this is possible, but how. I thought small blocks only used
C-4s and big blocks used C-6s. That's all for now.

Bill Richardson
79 F-100 Ranger 2wd
Baton Rouge, La.


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 08:09:20 PDT
From: "steve potratz"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - a/c relay, fans etc.

I think that the problem is the dash switch: the ac blower switch is run
parallel with a larger gage wire to the blower. This happened to mine and I
took both switches off the controller and cleaned the contacts and it ran
but not very long. The amp draw from the blower is significant and the
contacts were burned-replacing with new was the answer. The amp draw is why
they ad the 2nd orange colored heavy wire in parallel to the switch wire.

Steve

>>>>>Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Air conditioner clutch and blower relay?

Hey guys another electrical question. My AC on my 78 Bronco was working
fine one minute and then nothing the next. No blower at all. No vent, no
heat and the AC clutch will not engage. I've checked the fuse and the power
to the fuse block. The owners manual has a note attached to the fuse block
diagram about the starter motor relay. I looked for a fusible link and
found none. Is there a relay hidden inline somewhere. I ohmed the wiring
harness between the battery and alternator and the alternator and the plug
just before it goes through the firewall. This checks out fine, but when
the switch is on and the AC is turned on there is not any power at the
firewall plug-in. If any one has a service manual on this truck can you
look up the wiring diagrams or give me a link to a web site that has this
info. It gets a little hot sitting in traffic at the end of the day with no
AC. >>>>Thanks



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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 11:17:14 EDT
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vans and Trucks, and perverse psychology

HA HA
thanks i needed that. well all it seems like now is im getting nikled dimed
$20 billed to death but im trying to get it fixed i think ill drive it awhile
and then maybe ill sell both my car(78 chrysler lebaron with working AC
shortly(i know its chrysler but it gets good gas milage and its in good
shape) )and truck and opt for a nice Bronco II or a Explorer but thats gonna
be a while yet.
boy wouldnt i love that new ford Excursion. thats what we like to call in the
bissiness a one bad ride
Travis
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 11:19:53 EDT
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vans and Trucks, and perverse psychology

oh yeah and at this point i dont have a girl friend (not yet i stll have to
go back to school- just think im a older guy with a car they like those) and
im a good kid so they dont worry about me to much
Travis
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 10:39:20 -0500
From: JOHN E DOLSON
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil Pan Removal --- crank bending

I'll second that it isn't hard to do. I did it on my 352 with no
significant exerience.
The block of wood between the jack and front edge of the oil pan is a
little easier
said than done, I thought. I was real worried about the wood slipping
and bending
my crankshaft if the wood block were to contact the balancer.



I wouldn't worry too much about bending your crank. that FE crank is one
tough piece of Iron. The crank I put in my 390 came from a siezed motor,
I had to remove the crank from the locked motor before I could remove the
connecting rods ( I'm also using them), to do this I removed all the main
caps, installed the balancer and gave it a couple of good whacks with a
20# sledge, until the crank was far enough out of the block to get to all
the connecting rod nuts, macine shop checked crank, still straight and
true, runs great.

John Dolson
Jefferson City, MO

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 09:52:18 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 400 performance

>From: "Chris Samuel"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 400 performance
>
>snip
>
>We have built a bunch of these Engines and
>have never had a failure of the HV pump.
>I have also never seen a pump failure that
>was the pump's fault. These pumps including
>the stock one are susceptible to dirt or other
>junk (Valve Seal Material) jamming them but
>that is not the pump's fault, it is an inherent trait
>of this design,

Yo Chris:

I think you're right about the nature of the problem. I have personally seen a
couple of newly rebuilt engines (other Fords, neither of them M-blocks) die
because of HV pump failures, but I can't say for sure exactly what caused them.
OTOH, adding a HV oil pump to a high mileage engine on the premise that
increased oil volume/flow will cushion the worn bearings may well be a recipe
for disaster. If a stock pump is well worn, it may allow particles to pass
right through while the new tighter tolerances of a new pump will not accept
those same chunks w/out problems.

I still believe, however, that in an engine w/ stock-type bearings that have the
proper clearances, at best the HV pump is simply going to put more strain on the
pump drive system (i.e., the hex shaft, distributor drive gear, and camshaft)
w/out any significant contribution to overall longevity or reliability.

>Personally I don't like Bushed Rods. I have
>my reasons, strength being one. Wysco will
>custom build you a set of any ratio you want
>with the correct pins, last time I checked
>$600.00; for "me" that is not much more then the
>cost of the 351C Pistons and the price of
>bushing them. That "not much more" is a
>small price for "me" to pay for piece of mind.

I guess we differ some on this one. While I agree that ultimately an un-bushed
rod is stronger, I think that for "normal" truck use, the bushed rod is more
than sufficient. If you anticipate pushing your M-block to some serious revs,
then a bushed rod might or might not be strong enough. I believe (maybe
naively?) that you can push an M-block up to 5K rpm occasionally w/ bushed
connecting rods and not have a problem. Maybe if you anticipate extended jaunts
at over 4.5-5K rpm, bushed rods are not right for you.

As for the cost of custom-made pistons, Wiseco, Ross, and other piston makers
offer similar deals and prices. If you're comparing hypereutectic cast 351C
pistons (approx $200/set) and about $100 for bushing the rod ends, you're
talking about double the price for custom pistons.

>If you are running True Roller Rockers such
>
>snip
>
>You do not need all of
>the factory oil flow to the heads. So, if
>your running roller rockers because you
>intend to rev the engine why not redirect
>the oil to the mains where you need it!?
>Well Dave, I suppose that you have now
>heard of someone who regularly restricts
>the oil flow to the top end.

OK. Now I've heard it all! :-)

Me personally, I would use true roller rockers for the (slight) overall reduced
friction in the valve train and especially for the reduced stress on the valve
guides, which I believe would contribute to longevity and reliability. At
"normal" M-block operating speeds, say less than 5K rpms, I don't believe there
would be a significant performance advantage in using roller rockers.

>Up the OD of the P/rods one size, 3/8"
>hardened, forged are my favorite.

Good idea.

>Actually if the ports are close to matching this
>is the least critical area in them.

I agree.

> Do smooth
>out all of the bumps and such. Do not polish
>them. Do smooth out and streamline the
>Bowls and do remove metal on the top and
>sides of the exhaust port, just smooth out the
>port floor. If you simply have to polish
>something do it in the exhaust side.

Exhaust side really does need the most help. I believe that on a street
M-block, probably 90% of what could be gained from the most extensive and
sophisticated porting you could possibly do (at any cost) could be gained by
simply "cleaning up" the exhaust ports.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 08:55:46 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: To the List

- -----Original Message-----
From: TBeeee aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, August 19, 1999 6:42 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: To the List



>OCR stands for Optical Code Reader---via the scanner you can decode the
>information into text format which can then be loaded into your favorite
word
>processor and edited/formated.


Right idea, wrong acronym...OCR=Optical Character Recognition.


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 12:04:32 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: To the List

In a message dated 8/19/99 12:02:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bbeyer pacifier.com writes:

>
> Right idea, wrong acronym...OCR=Optical Character Recognition.

It's the thought that counts right?

Stock Man
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 09:46:25 -0700
From: Marv Miller
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F-100 with a 390

Phil wrote:

> I am getting ready to replace the 240 engine in my 70 F100, with a 390 and
> was wondering will I need to change the engine support brackets bolted to
> the frame.

Gee, a '70 F-100 2wd with a 390. Just what I'm looking for. Got another you'd
like to sell?

- -Marv-
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 13:57:48 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: what is OCR?

"Danger" said:

>> is the only way to go. I am glad the text was appreciated.
>> Stock Man

> Stock Man has gone out of his way on many occasions to help strangers
> whom he'll probably never meet (even if he didn't type everything in
> manually like the rest of us... hehe).

> BTW:) what is OCR?

Optical Character Recognition. OCR is short for "OCR software", which is
neat software that checks a scanned image (typically a page of typed text)
to recognize letter patterns, and then converts it into an editable text
file.

Cha-ching! Another question successfully answered. That's another $0.02
into my Ford-Truck account. I'm saving up for a paint job for my Club Wagon
(about $1000), so I only need to answer another 49,999 questions before I
can cash out.

- -don


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 13:49:25 -0500
From: "Don Yerhot"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mustang & Ford

September issue, has a little red Mustang coupe on the upper right corner of
the cover.


this article, which issue is it again?>

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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 16:13:06 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fw: Fe parts for sale

Caught this on the newsgroup thought some of you might be interested.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: TH673789
Newsgroups: alt.autos.ford
Date: Thursday, August 19, 1999 7:40 AM
Subject: Fe parts for sale


>New 428cj manual flywheel $225.00. 390 auto flywheel used in good shape
$50.00.
>428 Cj rods (c7ae-b) complete set $225.00. Timing chain cover for 390--c8ae
>6059-b-4 $60.00.Complete FE Air cleaner w/shroud $90.00. crank Pulley
>c8ae-6a312b Single groove off 390 $40.00. Water pump pully off 390
c8ae-8a-528b
>$40.00 Crank pully off of 390(double)c8ae-6312c $55.00 Harmonic balancer
for
>390 gt $75.00. Timing chain set for 390 -both sprokets and chain $15.00
new.
>Original valva covers for 390 in very good shape $20.00. 390 -2v carb
original
>$40.00.360 rods c7te-a $30.00 for the set. all prices are plus shipping and
>obo. . Have pics of all items listed if interested. Thanks in advance
>Terry
>th673789 aol.com


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 20:00:08 -0400
From: "Ted and Sarah Freeman"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mustang & Ford

It's the September Issue.

- -Ted

- -----Original Message-----
From: Larry Brown
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mustang & Ford


>I just looked in the issue on the local drug store rack and did not find
>this article, which issue is it again?
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Don Yerhot
>To: 61-79-List Ford-Trucks. Com
>Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 8:15 AM
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mustang & Ford
>
>
>> I normally don't buy the assorted Ford/Mustang magazines on the rack
>> because they usually only have articles about the newer 5.0 'stangs. But
>> this month's issue of Mustangs&Fords was an exception. They had a big
>> article on FE's. What castings to look for, PN's, valve and comb. chamber
>> sizes, for the 352, 390, 406, 427, and 428. Had another article on 351
>> Clevelands and Modifieds. Even had a good one on the little 200 sixes
with
>> some info about the 240/300. They talk about Clifford and what they have
>> available. Just thought I'd pass this on, I felt it was a good $3.99
>spent.
>> I also wanted to thank the guys who recently responded about where to
>find
>> Rag joints other than from the dealer. NAPA has them for $17.00, almost
>$50
>> less!
>>
>> DonY
>> 65 F250-351W
>> 74 F100-351W
>>
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>>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 19:00:28 -0500
From: wiregoat juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - brakes

To those of you, yesterday, with brake trouble: I bought a brand
spanking new master cylinder with a life-time warranty from Autozone a
year ago. After returning it THREE times, they gave my money back. I
then went to O'reilly's, got a new one there, and had money left over for
brake fluid. My '68 Ford f-100 now stopps great.


Someday, we'll look back on this, laugh nervously and change the
subject.

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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 18:00:23 -0700
From: "Hernandez, Anthony"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - a lot of oil leaking around here

Hello,

I have a 69 Bronco with a 302 and 3 spd manual tranny and I also have oil
leaking from the pan area. I read somebody's answer to a post that said you
might want to replace the front and rear main seals while your at it. So
anyway here's my question: Can I replace the front and rear main seals
without dropping the tranny?

TIA

Anthony in Vista, CA


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 21:05:47 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - a lot of oil leaking around here

In a message dated 8/19/99 5:56:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ahernandez winresources.com writes:


without dropping the tranny? >>
The front one yes, thats an easy job, but the rear is a lil more involved.
You have to drop the tranny, and the flywheel to get at it. On the plus
side, you'll be worryfree after its done.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 21:32:52 EDT
From: SevnD2 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Shift Improvement Kit woes

I learned just this year about the C 6 with the smaller bolt pattern for a
302 , 351C and 351 W . I have one that I had first thought was for an FE
engine . The bell housing is not removable ( one piece case ) except for the
tail shaft . Has a place for wires to plug into it also . I was surprised
they made a C 6 for the smaller engines .
Anyway I just wanted to clarify that there is someone else with one of these
and that you are not mistaken about it .

Rollie .
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 18:40:43 PDT
From: "steve potratz"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - disconnect EGR on 400M

Personally, I would get the EGR manifold and 4V EGR spacer for
emissions legality reasons and then disable the EGR valve (just disconnect
and plug the vacuum control hose) for better performance. Then, if
necessary at some future time, the EGR function is easily restored.>>>

Dave: I do not understand the need to disconnect EGR. From what I have
experienced on my 400m in my 78 and my FI 5.0 Crown Vic, the EGR prevents
some preignition, providing cylinder cooling by adding mass flow without
more air. The crown Vic would ping all the time until I cleaned out the
passageways. The mileage picked up too. Does changing the cam to a
peformance cam reduce the effect or benefits of EGR? Seems like we went
through this recently, but I do not remember the conclusions.

Steve





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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 22:21:08 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Shift Improvement Kit woes

SevnD2 aol.com wrote:
>
> I learned just this year about the C 6 with the smaller bolt pattern for a
> 302 , 351C and 351 W . I have one that I had first thought was for an FE
> engine . The bell housing is not removable ( one piece case ) except for the
> tail shaft . Has a place for wires to plug into it also . I was surprised
> they made a C 6 for the smaller engines .
> Anyway I just wanted to clarify that there is someone else with one of these
> and that you are not mistaken about it .
>

Very common in virtually all 80-86 trucks that came with some form of
small block.

OX

OX
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 02:52:48 GMT
From: "madness madness"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Mustangs are trucks ?

>From: "William S. Hart"
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To:
>CC:
>Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Mustangs are trucks ?
>Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 08:12:42 -0500
>
> > I have had a problem latley with my 92 Mustang Gt. I have gone threw
>to
> > sets of cat converters since I got it. Now I am looking for my
> > 3rd set due
> > to a pressure crack that has formed in the pipe coming out of
> > the manifold.
> > What would be the problem here? I am baffiled by it !
> > Am i looking at a rebuild or what ?
> >
> >
>Okay, this seems a bit off topic, but because it COULD in some way possibly
>affect a truck, I'll give it a shot ... check your motor mounts. Those
>5.0's are pretty torquey in the light 'stang body and could be trying to
>twist its way right out of there. that's about the only way (aside from
>trying to 4x4 with it) that you will get pressures to crack exhaust on
>those
>things. The exhaust is mounted pretty well, but still loose enough to let
>the motor move a little bit. Once the motor mounts start to go the motor
>moves a lot more ....
>
>Also manual or auto ? Manual will be more prone to this, especially if you
>race, and even more so if you race with stickies on the back ...
>
>
>
>Just my $.02
>wish
>
>96 Mustang GT 4.6L
>73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 00:15:35 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Spools and lockers!

In a message dated 8/19/99 9:01:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
chicken521 hotmail.com writes:

> I am considering putting a spool in the diff of my truck. I want to have
> lots of traction but I also want it to handle good on the road. being 2wd
> with a stock rear end I think it needs sumthin like that to run the roads
> nicely... Any info about spools or auto/manual Lockers is greatly
> appreciated! thanx ya'll byes!
I 'd recommend either a detroit locker, or an arb airlocker,,,these will both
give you lots of extra traction, but the arb won't make the "clicking " when
you turn as the detroit will,,,it will also allow your diff to act exactly
like an open diff whened its turned off, drawback are that theres an air
line that could possibly get snagged and pulled off during
offroading,,,,which renders it useless, because the air pressure maintains it
in the locked position,,,if its mounted in a way so that snaging is a minimul
threat then theres not much more potential than if a brakeline were to be
snagged. anyways either would work in your application,,,presonally if it
were to be used in a front axle,,,then id strictly go with the arb because
when turned off it acts like an open diff as i already mentioned. and that
eliminates the weird handling associated with lockers...Now that ive put you
all to sleep ill be done now,,,,hehe

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M NEW 33x12.5" tires!!! YIPPIE!!!
members.aol.com/ianboss69/page/home.htm
True Blue Ford Blue
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 18:28:48 -0500
From: "Brett L. Habben"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Ignitor

Corey,
Another potential cause of this could be a sticky dist. advance
mechanism.
Brett
Super75cab
>I did notice that the engine returns to the correct idle better
>whereas with the points I would have to tap the accelerator for it to
>drop from 1000 to 700 rpms(idle).... I had always attributed this to the
>POS 2bbl carb I have but now it seems it was an ignition problem.
>Corey
>'66 F100 352
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Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 00:49:30 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Spools and lockers!

never run a spool on the street, a guy was killed several years ago, they
had a spool in a chevelle with the skinny tires on the front, went into a
curve and it didn't turn, the driver blamed it on the spool. it doesn't give
any in a corner or curve.
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 21:55:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: canzus seanet.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Low power 302's

At 09:12 AM 6:8:99 -0400, you wrote:
>I've got a 302 of 78 vintage in my 150 super cab. Old 351 heads of 1970 and
>a small motorsport cam. Single-plane intake and a Holley 600 top speed is
>120 + MPH with 350,s out back and 21 Canadian Miles per gallon. Gutless off
>the line but WOW I'll never forget the look on the Ferrari's face when I
>passed him North of Barrie on the HWY 401!! That's a life time dream
>accomplished in 2 seconds..
>Marvin


I know you mean HWY 400, as it runs north from Trawnna up to the simcoes.

Steve & the Rockette
63 F100
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600, soon to be a 302
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
97 Contour, Mine

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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 21:56:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: canzus seanet.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: what is OCR?

At 01:57 PM 19:8:99 -0400, you wrote:

>
>Cha-ching! Another question successfully answered. That's another $0.02
>into my Ford-Truck account. I'm saving up for a paint job for my Club Wagon
>(about $1000), so I only need to answer another 49,999 questions before I
>can cash out.
>
>-don


You can get a house painted for a thousand? Sign me up :)

Steve & the Rockette
63 F100
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600, soon to be a 302
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
97 Contour, Mine

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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 21:55:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: canzus ....


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