From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #290
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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, August 18 1999 Volume 03 : Number 290



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - STEREOS....cont.
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Submit your technical articles!
FTE 61-79 - HV Oil pumps
RE: FTE 61-79 - 400 performance
FTE 61-79 - Ignitor
FTE 61-79 - Mustang & Ford
FTE 61-79 - Oil Pan Removal
FTE 61-79 - Changing oil pan
FTE 61-79 - Ignitor
RE: FTE 61-79 - Oil Pan Removal
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ignitor
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ignitor
FTE 61-79 - curse word
FTE 61-79 - Was ignitor, now brakes
FTE 61-79 - Re: Rear axle seal/bearings - almost done
Re: FTE 61-79 - curse word
RE: FTE 61-79 - STEREOS....cont.
FTE 61-79 - RE: Air conditioner clutch and blower relay?
FTE 61-79 - coffee can thing
Re: FTE 61-79 - coffee can thing
FTE 61-79 - RE: Loud stereos
FTE 61-79 - 400M Pistons 9:1 Compression
Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M Pistons 9:1 Compression
Re: FTE 61-79 - curse word
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Loud stereos
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Air conditioner clutch and blower relay?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M Pistons 9:1 Compression
FTE 61-79 - stereos
FTE 61-79 - more air conditioning
FTE 61-79 - Stereos and Hwy 401
Re: FTE 61-79 - STEREOS....cont.
FTE 61-79 - Vans and Trucks
FTE 61-79 - M block flat top pistons...
FTE 61-79 - C-6
Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6
RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6
FTE 61-79 - free 66 parts
FTE 61-79 - Flip front ends.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vans and Trucks
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vans and Trucks
RE:FTE 61-79 - Oil Pan Removal
FTE 61-79 - Oil Pan Gasket
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mustang & Ford
Re: FTE 61-79 - free 66 parts
FTE 61-79 - I NEED SOME THINGS......
Re: FTE 61-79 - I NEED SOME THINGS......
FTE 61-79 - 400 Flat tops
Re: FTE 61-79 - free 66 parts
Re: FTE 61-79 - free 66 parts
Re: FTE 61-79 - curse word
FTE 61-79 - RE: Oil pan removal
Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil Pan Gasket
Re: FTE 61-79 - Unknown
Re: FTE 61-79 - Flip front ends.
FTE 61-79 - Stereos and a rebuild
Re: FTE 61-79 - I NEED SOME THINGS......
FTE 61-79 - Transmission whoa's
Re: FTE 61-79 - free 66 parts
FTE 61-79 - 300 Swirl pistons
FTE 61-79 - Re: I want power steering

=======================================================================

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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 05:32:08 -0500
From: "Shane"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - STEREOS....cont.

The first question that you need to answer is how much do you want to spend
on your system. Then you need to look with in your budget. An amplifier
makes the sounds comming from you speakers louder. I would skip out on the
all in one speaker box for behind the seat because you will nat get as good
of midrange sound.

As far as the speaker behind the seat (sub) I use a 12 inch JL Audio 12W4
(it has dual 4 ohm voice coils) I think the price is around $200. The sub is
capable of handeling up to 1000 watts (yes that is one thousand watts) I use
a small amplifier to run it, it is a Kenwood 50 X 2 amplifier the price is
about $100 - $150. My box was made by a friend of mine and is 36 inches
wide and 15 inches tall and the depth is angled to conform to the back of
the seat. When people ask me what I have for subs I always have them guess
first and they often guess two 10 inch subs with about 500 wats of power.
When I tell them what I have they look at me in disbeliefe untill I show
them. This may be more than you are looking to spend but I am very happy
with my setup (although my neighbors don't seem to like it!!! :) ) and this
setup does keep up with systems that other people spand much more money on.

As for your door speaker I would suggest looking for 6 1/2 inch two-way
Pioneer speakers because they will fit right in to the mounting holes and
they sound really good for the price. The pair I have are $50 - $60 and you
can even adjust the angle of the tweeter. So that it is pointed towards your
ears. Hope


Shane




- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To: ;
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 1999 6:09 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - STEREOS....cont.


> Hey y'all, well I got an Audiovox single disc CD player today for $129 but
I
> didn't get speakers. I want to get a speaker to go behind my seat
but
> I also have to get speakers in my door panel, don't I? I
am
> kinda confused because I saw this one speaker that goes behind the seat
that
> had bass and tweeters but the salesman said it would be kind of a waste of
> money to get that cuz I would need to get an amplifier. WHat does an
> amplifier do?? Then, I saw another speaker that was just bass
case
> he said I wouldn't need an amplifier> but then I would need to get higher
> pitched speakers in my door correct? Basically what I guess I'm askin
> sorry is this is kind of confusing LOL> should I go with a speaker behind
my
> seat that has bass and higher pitched speakers WITH an amplifier or should
I
> go with a bass box behind my seat and higher pitched speakers in my door
W/O
> an amplifier?? Anything would help at this point! Thanks y'all and sorry
its
> so long!
>
> *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
> *~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 07:49:31 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Submit your technical articles!

> This is the web site admin for Ford Truck Enthusiasts. As many of
> you know, we have a technical article section on the web site. Its
> been a while since an article has been submitted and that section of
> the site is a little stale.

Funny you should mention that. Steve Salas and myself were,just this
week, kicking around the idea of collaborating on an article about FE
heads. There's been alot written about the 428 CJ and 427 LR, MR, HR,
and TP heads, but almost nothing about the garden-variety castings. I
have contended for many years that there isn't much difference in the
early 352/390 and the 427 LR and 428 CJ port and chamber wise, that the
performance difference is in the intake and cam. I'm also curious about
the "improvements" made on the '66-'71 heads. Steve is a machinist, and
has some heads to measure, and what we are hoping to find is some real
flow data somewhere to see where they stand.

Does anyone have access to a flow bench? I see really three or four
distinct castings that we would need to test. The early style '61-'65
352/390 heads, the '66-'71 style with the regular size intake ports and
rounded chambers, the '66-71 style with the small intake ports and
either style chamber, and a 428 CJ head. We could pull this data into a
spreadsheet (my specialty) and create some flow curve scenarios to
predict performance in various applications, and see if there really is
that much difference between them.

I think we could put together a pretty good resource here, and any
asssistance with the project would be properly credited to the provider
of the data.
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:52:32 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - HV Oil pumps

Steve D writes: >>They can be very helpful for older motors that have large
bearing
clearances (and low oil pressure, which helps keep the load on the pump
down), but for the most part I avoid using them unless absolutely
necessary.

They are also helpful on modified oiling systems on FE's when the passages have
been drilled out to the larger sizes and all the main bearing web oil holes have
been lined up to match the holes in the bearings. I used to run .0025"
clearances on my 428SCJ Stang for Mains and Rods. It took a lot of oil to keep
the pressure up on those clearances. I do agree with you that on a completely
stock engine the regular pump is sufficient, and I don't recommend the HV pump
for clearances in stock ranges (.0015-.002, I think) (I always liked a bit more
clearance than the book recommends).

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 05:53:13 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 400 performance

From what I can gather a HV pump is not necessary for street duty.
The stock pump can provide sufficient oil at least up to 5000-6000 rpm. If
you think about it it does make sense that since the HV pump is moving more
oil it will put more load on the components driving it (pump drive shaft,
distributor gear, cam gear, timing chain etc). I thing this is what they
were referring to failing. At the very least I would install a high
performance pump drive with a HV pump.

On another point, since the HV pump is doing more work it requires
more power to drive (nothing is free right?). This causes more parasitic
losses in the motor and less usable power output.

Tom H.


> What I found interesting is the warnings against the HV oil pump. I ran
> one
> in my old 400 for 35k miles with no problems with stock cleavite bearings
> (till the #2 intake pushrod bent & ejected the lifter). In fact, that pump
> is
> now running in the replacement 400 Ive installed. My old 302 (from years
> ago)
> also ran one well for a long time (60k miles). My only reason for doing so
> is
> to ensure plenty of oil is available. What is the weakness you're
> referring
> to introducing by doing so?
>


>
>
> Torque is easy, mileage is not. Even so, w/ decent tuning and gearing,
> you
> should be at least a little into the lower double digits.
>
> >1. I'm planning on keeping the block as stock as
> >possible. I would like to run about 9:1
> >compression pistons & a high volume oil pump.
>
> I would recommend against a high volume oil pump, unless you plan to run
> full-groove race bearings w/ loose tolerances. Otherwise, the high vol
> pump
> is
> overkill and it may actually introduce a weak point in an otherwise solid
> foundation. I have seen a few and heard of many more problems w/ high
> vol
> pumps
> blowing up. As I recall, Ox toasted a high vol pump in his M-block last
> year.
>
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:05:44 -0500
From: "Corey Johnson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ignitor

Well it came last night and I installed it immediately. First
impression was oh no what have I done?
My engine actually seems to run a little rougher but then again I
haven't checked the timing yet so I'll hold off on any major whines...
I did notice that the engine returns to the correct idle better
whereas with the points I would have to tap the accelerator for it to
drop from 1000 to 700 rpms(idle).... I had always attributed this to the
POS 2bbl carb I have but now it seems it was an ignition problem.
I also noticed a little bit of a pick up in top-end acceleration,
but that could also be my imagination...

I'll fiddle with it some more but for now I would have to say that
if you truck is running ok dont mess with it but if you scar points
often it is a good idea..


Corey
'66 F100 352


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:15:39 -0500
From: "Don Yerhot"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mustang & Ford

I normally don't buy the assorted Ford/Mustang magazines on the rack
because they usually only have articles about the newer 5.0 'stangs. But
this month's issue of Mustangs&Fords was an exception. They had a big
article on FE's. What castings to look for, PN's, valve and comb. chamber
sizes, for the 352, 390, 406, 427, and 428. Had another article on 351
Clevelands and Modifieds. Even had a good one on the little 200 sixes with
some info about the 240/300. They talk about Clifford and what they have
available. Just thought I'd pass this on, I felt it was a good $3.99 spent.
I also wanted to thank the guys who recently responded about where to find
Rag joints other than from the dealer. NAPA has them for $17.00, almost $50
less!

DonY
65 F250-351W
74 F100-351W

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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:37:42 -0501
From:
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil Pan Removal

>Do any of you folks know if the oil pan on the FE engine (352) can be
>removed without pulling the engine or raising it up. I need to replace
>my gasket and would prefer not to have to pull the engine out or lift it
>up.

I'll second that it isn't hard to do. I did it on my 352 with no significant exerience.
The block of wood between the jack and front edge of the oil pan is a little easier
said than done, I thought. I was real worried about the wood slipping and bending
my crankshaft if the wood block were to contact the balancer.

One other good thing about this exercise is you will notice if the nuts are missing
off the bottom of the engine mount bolts. Guess how I know this.....
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 09:30:10 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Changing oil pan

Garry writes: >>Do any of you folks know if the oil pan on the FE engine (352)
can be
removed without pulling the engine or raising it up. I need to replace
my gasket and would prefer not to have to pull the engine out or lift it

I had to raise mine (76). I jacked it up as high as it would go and put 2X4
wood blocks under the motor mounts and removed the jack. This gave me just
enough room to get the pan off. I also had to rotate the crank shaft about 1/2
round after I got the pan loosened to get one of the counterweights up into the
block to allow the pan to move rearward and clear. It isn't that hard. Just
slow and common sense stuff.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:43:07 -0500
From:
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ignitor

> My engine actually seems to run a little rougher but then again I
>haven't checked the timing yet so I'll hold off on any major whines...


Did you replace the plug wires too? Perhaps you are getting (besides possible
wrong timing) cross firing due to higher voltages? This is why I haven't switched
mine yet. $ for the petronix + $ new wires + $ new coil = a tad more than I can
dump on a truck that is running fine but really needs some brake work.
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:43:02 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Oil Pan Removal

> said than done, I thought. I was real worried about the wood
> slipping and bending
> my crankshaft if the wood block were to contact the balancer.
>

Uhm....I don't think this is a very big problem ... those cranks are taking
some incredible shock loads, the motor slipping and hitting the crank with
the piece of wood (likely the wood would shatter anyway).

The only way I've heard of to bend a crank that's installed in the motor
would be to throw a rod or something ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 09:45:11 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ignitor

In a message dated 8/18/99 6:35:14 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bkirking bcm.tmc.edu writes:

>

Dont forget plugs too. When I installed my Jacobs unit it came with the new
wires (8.5mm monsters) and a new coil. Installation of this system required
regapping of the plugs, so I figured it was a good time to replace them.
Glad I did too, I think the old plugs were the original plugs. Im not sure
about the pertronics, but common sense tells me to go with a slightly wider
gap over points, as points were gapped at .035, Duraspark is .044, and with
my Jacobs .067, And no that is not a typo. Adding the pertronics, I would at
least go to the .044 recommended for Duraspark, maybe more, but Id play
around with the engine on a scope to see where it would be best at. Oh, and
dont fall for that platinum is better routine. The folks at Jacobs confirmed
what I have been repeatedly taught by dad. The best plugs on the market are
standard Autolite Resistors. NEVER EVER run Champions. Ive got three that
were installed in a hi performance 429. The compression forced the ceramic
part of the plug to shoot out of them, and into the hood which had a real
nice paint job, but now has the beginnings of a constellation.
Good luck, hope it smoothes out for you

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:56:46 -0500
From: "Corey Johnson"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ignitor

Well I didn't change the wires/coil but they are only about 4 months old. I had put
high performance Accel wires/plugs/coil on in April/May when i rebuilt the engine. I
do however plan to clean/check the plugs this weekend and hopefully check the timing
tonight if I can get a hold of a timing light.

As far as brakes... Im in the same boat.. I replaced my master cylinder and
rebuilt all 4 wheel cylinders in June/July and Im still having problems. Even bought
a vacuum to suction out the brake lines/bleeders but still acts up. Ohwell.. it stops
but not without jerking me everywhere.... Really sucks in rush hour..

bkirking bcm.tmc.edu wrote:

> > My engine actually seems to run a little rougher but then again I
> >haven't checked the timing yet so I'll hold off on any major whines...
>
> Did you replace the plug wires too? Perhaps you are getting (besides possible
> wrong timing) cross firing due to higher voltages? This is why I haven't switched
> mine yet. $ for the petronix + $ new wires + $ new coil = a tad more than I can
> dump on a truck that is running fine but really needs some brake work.
> Bryan Kirking
> 66 Step Side
> 352 FE, 4 speed
> Houston, Texas
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 09:58:48 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - curse word

Mark McK. writes: >>Is Mazda a curse word here ?

Y E P !.! . !

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 09:38:33 -0500
From:
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Was ignitor, now brakes

> I replaced my master cylinder and
>rebuilt all 4 wheel cylinders in June/July and Im still having problems. Even bought
>a vacuum to suction out the brake lines/bleeders but still acts up.

Mine stops fine, most of the time. About 5% of the time though the pedal just
stays down. I am in the habit now of making sure the pedal returns. It was a big
problem on the down ramp of the parking garage. I would have hit the guy in front
of me but I mananged to pull the parking brake with about 3 or 4 inches to spare!
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 07:37:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rear axle seal/bearings - almost done

It's taken me a while, but I have really been busy lately with work
and stuff.

I finally got everything back together, new bearings, seals, brake
shoes, wheel cylinders, and got the drums turned. Tonight I will be
bleeding the brakes and changing the gear oil.

I want to thank you guys for all the help. This was the first time I
did this on a semi-floater and I really needed the advice. I ended up
using Timkin straight roller bearings. Sure enough, they came with
retainers and seals. The nice thing was not having to worry about
driving the races into the axle housing because they don't have a
seperate race. I had no problem installing the axles with these
bearings on them.

Hey Stu, your truck is looking awesome!


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 11:33:53 EDT
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - curse word

In a message dated 8/18/99 9:02:20 AM Central Daylight Time,
am14 daimlerchrysler.com writes:

>Is Mazda a curse word here ?

My buddy used to have a mazda b2000 and boy that was a fun truck because we
beat the piss out of it other than that they were defiantly cheap pieces
Travis
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:41:26 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - STEREOS....cont.

When working with speakers, especially in automotive applications it helps
to understand their limitations. The human ear can hear from approximately
20Hz to 20 KHz (Low to High frequencies). There is no one speaker that will
faithfully reproduce this entire range of sound. Lower frequencies Have
more of a 'mechanical' property to them, they require more power to produce
and move larger amounts of air. Low frequencies tend to be less
directional. Mid-range is where most speach occurs. These frequencies
start to get directional. High frequencies require the least amount of
power to produce and are also the most directional. (Directional=the sound
seems to be coming from the speaker location. Has to do with stereo
separation.) Low frequency (bass) speakers can be placed behind the seat
and not suffer from being muffled (they are also the freqencies you 'feel').
High frequencies (tweeters) would be muffled behind a seat and sound quality
would suffer. Therefore location of midrange and tweeters are more critical
than for bass.

Since bass drivers are doing more mechanical work in moving more air they
require more power to run. This is where the amp comes in. It takes a low
power signal and produces a high power output. When selecting an amp go
with RMS output values if they are available. Most of the low quality mfgs
use peak ouput to rate their amps so they can use a bigger number. Peak is
what an amp can hit once in a while. RMS is more of what it can deliver
continous. Distortion ratings are helpful to know how clear the sound will
be from the amp.

Tom H.
> ----------
> From: Bad4dFilly aol.com[SMTP:Bad4dFilly aol.com]
> Reply To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 1999 7:09 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com; offroad-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - STEREOS....cont.
>
> Hey y'all, well I got an Audiovox single disc CD player today for $129 but
> I
> didn't get speakers. I want to get a speaker to go behind my seat
> but
> I also have to get speakers in my door panel, don't I? I
> am
> kinda confused because I saw this one speaker that goes behind the seat
> that
> had bass and tweeters but the salesman said it would be kind of a waste of
>
> money to get that cuz I would need to get an amplifier. WHat does an
> amplifier do?? Then, I saw another speaker that was just bass
> case
> he said I wouldn't need an amplifier> but then I would need to get higher
> pitched speakers in my door correct? Basically what I guess I'm askin
>
> sorry is this is kind of confusing LOL> should I go with a speaker behind
> my
> seat that has bass and higher pitched speakers WITH an amplifier or should
> I
> go with a bass box behind my seat and higher pitched speakers in my door
> W/O
> an amplifier?? Anything would help at this point! Thanks y'all and sorry
> its
> so long!
>
> *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
> *~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:52:29 -0700
From: Brett Withers
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Air conditioner clutch and blower relay?

Hey guys another electrical question. My AC on my 78 Bronco was working
fine one minute and then nothing the next. No blower at all. No vent, no
heat and the AC clutch will not engage. I've checked the fuse and the power
to the fuse block. The owners manual has a note attached to the fuse block
diagram about the starter motor relay. I looked for a fusible link and
found none. Is there a relay hidden inline somewhere. I ohmed the wiring
harness between the battery and alternator and the alternator and the plug
just before it goes through the firewall. This checks out fine, but when
the switch is on and the AC is turned on there is not any power at the
firewall plug-in. If any one has a service manual on this truck can you
look up the wiring diagrams or give me a link to a web site that has this
info. It gets a little hot sitting in traffic at the end of the day with no
AC. Thanks

RBW
65 F100 352 police interceptor
74 Bronco 302
78 Bronco 351
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 11:12:13 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - coffee can thing

>> > The coffee can thing is the charcoal canister for the Evaporative emissions
> control system (EVAP).

That is a charcoal canister? It's totally different than what the 79's
had. I thought it was a vac reservoir. Does it just hold vapor coming
from the carb?. I know the 3, 78's Ive had (Broncos anyway) don't have
the gas tank check valve or the charcoal canister right over the frame
on passenger side

On my 79 F150:
The coffee can thing, which really is a juice can (no joke it comes off the
Hi-C line), is a vacuum reservoir. The charcoal canister is mounted on the
frame below and behind the battery. It is box shaped, not round and is made
of plastic. The vacuum reservoir can is located over by the master cylinder
(I think?).

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:19:29 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - coffee can thing

John LaGrone wrote:
>
> >> > The coffee can thing is the charcoal canister for the Evaporative emissions
> > control system (EVAP).
>
> That is a charcoal canister? It's totally different than what the 79's
> had. I thought it was a vac reservoir. Does it just hold vapor coming
> from the carb?. I know the 3, 78's Ive had (Broncos anyway) don't have
> the gas tank check valve or the charcoal canister right over the frame
> on passenger side
>
> On my 79 F150:
> The coffee can thing, which really is a juice can (no joke it comes off the
> Hi-C line), is a vacuum reservoir. The charcoal canister is mounted on the
> frame below and behind the battery. It is box shaped, not round and is made
> of plastic. The vacuum reservoir can is located over by the master cylinder
> (I think?).
>

OK, thats what I thought, 78's don't have a charcoal canister setup.

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:39:09 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Loud stereos

Actually, just riding in my Audi with the windows rolled up, no radio on, I
can barely hear the new electronic sirens the police and ambulances use in
my area, plus they usually don't even bother to engage the siren until they
are right on top of the intersection, not to mention the fact that the new
strobe lights they use instead of rotating blue (or red) beacons are hard
to see (particularly in daytime) unless you are looking right at them.
Quite unlike the old beacons that illuminated the area in a sea of blue
and left no question that there was an emergency in the area.

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Audi 4000CS Quattro
IsuzuG prodigy.net


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:59:08 -0400
From: frenz.6 osu.edu (Dale Frenz)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400M Pistons 9:1 Compression

These pistons are available. They are described in the catalog as follows:

400 Ford Truck Piston. Performance Cast, Flathead design with two valve
reliefs. "...commonly used when a customer wants higher compression, 9.0:1"

Anybody who is interested, I talked to the distributor and I can get you a
set for $165 plus tax and shipping. Email me if interested.

Dale Frenz
'79 Ruby


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:56:11 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M Pistons 9:1 Compression

Dale Frenz wrote:
>
> These pistons are available. They are described in the catalog as follows:
>
> 400 Ford Truck Piston. Performance Cast, Flathead design with two valve
> reliefs. "...commonly used when a customer wants higher compression, 9.0:1"
>
> Anybody who is interested, I talked to the distributor and I can get you a
> set for $165 plus tax and shipping. Email me if interested.
>

OK, I'll ask again. Who makes them and why doesn't anyone else sell
them? I'm definately interested.

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:55:48 -0400
From: kpayne ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - curse word

am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote:
>
> Mark McK. writes: >>Is Mazda a curse word here ?
>
> Y E P !.! . !
>
> Azie
> Ardmore, Al.
>

I guess it would depend on the context, in the small truck
list, probably not since the Mazda and Ranger are the same
truck. In the 97up list, it would depend on whether you
were discussing the Mazda trannies in some of the F150s.
This list.... Azie hit the nail on the head!

Ken
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 10:08:54 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Loud stereos

In the daytime the old rotators & wig-wags were basically useless when
approaching an intersection. I used to be a paramedic and we ALWAYS slowed
way down when approaching an intersection most of the time to a dead stop
when "blowing a red light". The strobes are much more visible in the daytime
but it was still scary to drive in traffic especially when someone's life
could be depending on you. The first rule we were taught in school was
"don't become a victim" obviously what good are you going to do a patient if
you're piled up in a mess of metal because some driver couldn't see/hear or
just wasn't paying attention.

Just to keep this post "legal" the rigs we drove were modified, smog exempt
E350s with 460/C6s. We called 'em "pocket rockets" and on the freeway they
quite easily buried the speedos right to the 'P' in MPH at the bottom of the
old 85 mph speedos. One guy claimed he had even wrapped the needle all the
way back to zero, tho' I never saw it. Ahhh to be young, full of
testosterone and have a license to ignore speed limits...those were the
days...

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: George W. Selby, III
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Cc: 'danger csolutions.net'
Date: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 9:49 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Loud stereos


>Actually, just riding in my Audi with the windows rolled up, no radio on, I
>can barely hear the new electronic sirens the police and ambulances use in
>my area, plus they usually don't even bother to engage the siren until they
>are right on top of the intersection, not to mention the fact that the new
>strobe lights they use instead of rotating blue (or red) beacons are hard
>to see (particularly in daytime) unless you are looking right at them.
> Quite unlike the old beacons that illuminated the area in a sea of blue
>and left no question that there was an emergency in the area.



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:20:54 -0400
From: "Ray Taschenberger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Air conditioner clutch and blower relay?

brett, check for a relay in front of the dash lower lip near the glove box.

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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 10:13:39 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M Pistons 9:1 Compression

What OX said...

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: James Oxley
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M Pistons 9:1 Compression


>
> OK, I'll ask again. Who makes them and why doesn't anyone else sell
>them? I'm definately interested.



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 11:29:44 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - stereos

>>A freind of mine has a 10,000 dollar sound system in his 88 mustang.

Henry has a $4 stereo system. I bought an AM/FM auto stop cassette at a
parts house grand opening sale. The speakers are all my son's rejects. I
made the boxes for behind the seat. I have tweeters in the doors. He has a
thumper in his Chebbie with equalizers and amps and a big round thing in the
trunk. He has yet to figure out that that sort of stuff just doen't work. He
always has a loose connection or a short. On top of that, a fancy stereo is
almost a guarantee of a busted door glass and a brick in the floorboards.

SWMBO always says, "Invest in hearing aids. Everyone will need one the way
things are going."

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 11:19:18 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - more air conditioning

Well, Jeff, the system held vacuum like it should. It's in the shop getting
a charge this morning. A different shop that I have never used before but
was recommended by a good friend.

On your van, look for greasy places on the lines and at the connections.
Whenever R12 leaks out, it carries oil with it. If it is a very slow leak,
have the shop put in a can of red dye. You can find the leak next time. If
the hoses are old and hard, replace them.

More later. :-)

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 10:27:22 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stereos and Hwy 401

>He also has no glass in his car at this present time he lost hit hatch
>window on the 401 somewhere!

>>If this is the 401 in Canada near toronto, I have been there!! No >>place
>>to
>>lose anything let alone glass!!!

I drove that highway last week while on vacation (driving the wife's plastic
minivan full of kids) Made me miss my truck and its channel iron bumpers
mounted 4 feet off the ground. I dont know how well the old beast would
like running at 140 km/h, but people dont tailgate or cut me off :-)

A good place to look for stereo components is the pawn shop.
a friend of mine got a set of 5" kenwood speakers used, but in the box for
his boat last month for $10 The place let him test them before he bought
them and there was a no warranty, but i find manufacturers warranties on
stereo speakers to be worthless anyway..

Don Jones
1970 f-250 4x4


______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 13:48:32 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - STEREOS....cont.

In a message dated 08/18/1999 3:52:32 AM !!!First Boot!!!, IanBoss69 aol.com
writes:


enjoyable system, >>

Me? Overkill? LOL No it ain't like that, but I figure if I can afford it why
not LOL


should be 35-45 watts times 4 channels>>

It's 30 watts X 4

*~*~Lisa~*~*
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 13:18:07 -0700
From: Al Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vans and Trucks

Travis: You aks where do we find thse things; They are all over,
inpeoples yards behind gas stations, in junk yards, I even stopped a guy
driving a 63 Ford P/U that was obviously his driver and asked if he
wanted to sell it, A month later he did. If you want something go out
and look for it, put add in the local paper, use the medium we are now
on. They are out there friend but you gotta hunt. FWIW

Al
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 11:52:49 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - M block flat top pistons...

aka the Holy Grail for us poor deluded M block faithfuls. If you ain't
interested in M blocks then hit the delete button now and move on to the
next post.

Yes there is a manufacturer that makes flat top 400 series pistons. They are
Ohio Piston & Pin, 7915 E. 30th St., Indianapolis (?) IN 46219.
(800) 428-4591. I spoke with a very nice gentleman by the name of Mark who
was able to give me the names of some local distributors. The part # is
1282P and they are available in std, .020, .030, .040 and .060. (An M block
bored .060? yikes!) The comp height is 1.637 so they are destroked .010 and
they are cast flat tops with 2 valve reliefs. I told Mark he'd better get
ready to up the production on them 'cause they were going to have some
orders heading their way. These pistons are also marketed under the Nylen
brand with the same part #. Jobber net on these bad boys is $16.71 a piece
so hopefully we should be able to get them for $150-$165 a set.

Yeehaw I am one happy camper. Much thanks to Dale Frenz for the lead on
these guys.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"



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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:33:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: rich may
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6

Are all C-6's 3 speeds?

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:36:32 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6

Yes

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: rich may
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 12:33 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6


>Are all C-6's 3 speeds?



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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 14:44:29 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - C-6

> Are all C-6's 3 speeds?
>

Should be, unless they're broke.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 17:11:05 -0500
From: "Phil / Debi"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - free 66 parts

I have a 66 F100 that I was using for parts. I need to get rid of what is
left or will be forced to scrap it. If anyone can use the parts, I will let
them go for free. The body parts do need some work. I have a pic at
www.geocities.com/motorcity/shop/2446/projects/66parts.html E-mail me off
list with any questions.

Phil Beattie
66 F100 390 C6
66 F100 parts truck
69 F250 parts truck
70 F100 240 3 speed
79 F250 4x4 400 C6 (for sale)

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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:36:10 +0000
From: "James Holland"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Flip front ends.

Has anyone here ever installed one of those fiberglass flip front ends? I'm
thinking about it with my '67 F100. If anyone has, was it difficult? I
know the entire front end has to come apart, and I have no problem with
that. The thing I'm wondering is, how do you keep the front end of the
truck lower than the rear? My '67 has had the original 352 replaced with a
302 and the front of the truck is already level with or higher than the
rear.

Any help would be appreciated.

- -Brian
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:47:56 EDT
From: OldTrux aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vans and Trucks

In a message dated 8/18/99 1:27:10 PM Central Daylight Time,
albert brightok.net writes:

> They are all over,
> inpeoples yards behind gas stations, in junk yards, I even stopped a guy
> driving a 63 Ford P/U that was obviously his driver and asked if he
> wanted to sell it,
I sure wish it was like that around here (Chicago 'burbs)! Anyone else out
there near Chicago?
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 19:27:32 EDT
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vans and Trucks

Yeah i should go looking but i have a problem. i think ol blue is gonna have
to go. my parents said i really should save my money and invest into
something newer and welll i guesse there right. i would reallly like a
Bronco 2 or something like that and i really should save my money if i ever
want something like that. but it was a good ol truck but i think that there
right because its a real pain to get parts for and so on and so forth any one
in the iowa area need a good 66 ford f-250 let me know its or sale
Travis
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 16:29:14 -0700
From: Brett Withers
Subject: RE:FTE 61-79 - Oil Pan Removal


Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 20:20:17 -0400
From: Garry Bowling
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil Pan Removal

Do any of you folks know if the oil pan on the FE engine
(352) can be
removed without pulling the engine or raising it up. I need
to replace
my gasket and would prefer not to have to pull the engine
out or lift it
up.
Thanks
Garry Bowling
garrya bellsouth.net
67 F100

Unless you are very luck you'll at least need to raise the
engine about 6". I replace the gasket on my 65 a few years back and half
way through figured out that I had to raise the darn engine to get the pan
off so I could clean the gasket surfaces. I don't think the 67 has much
more room between the cross member and the pan.

RBW
65 F100 352 police interceptor
74 Bronco 302
78 Bronco 351

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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 20:24:50 -0700
From: "O'Connor"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil Pan Gasket

Thanks to Stock Man for typing the procedure out of the manual for us.
I've done it like that out of the manual and it works great. I've also did
it by fishing the bolts for the pump thru the small space between the pan
and block. Has anyone installed a gasket without removing the pan; just
lowering it? Could a bead of RTV be put on after you carefully removed the
old gasket? Just a thought.

Tim
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 19:47:37 -0500
From: "Larry Brown"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mustang & Ford

I just looked in the issue on the local drug store rack and did not find
this article, which issue is it again?

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Don Yerhot
To: 61-79-List Ford-Trucks. Com
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 8:15 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mustang & Ford


> I normally don't buy the assorted Ford/Mustang magazines on the rack
> because they usually only have articles about the newer 5.0 'stangs. But
> this month's issue of Mustangs&Fords was an exception. They had a big
> article on FE's. What castings to look for, PN's, valve and comb. chamber
> sizes, for the 352, 390, 406, 427, and 428. Had another article on 351
> Clevelands and Modifieds. Even had a good one on the little 200 sixes with
> some info about the 240/300. They talk about Clifford and what they have
> available. Just thought I'd pass this on, I felt it was a good $3.99
spent.
> I also wanted to thank the guys who recently responded about where to
find
> Rag joints other than from the dealer. NAPA has them for $17.00, almost
$50
> less!
>
> DonY
> 65 F250-351W
> 74 F100-351W
>
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>

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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:31:30 -0700
From: "Steven Ronnow"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - free 66 parts

Where in the world do you live?!?!?

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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 21:34:58 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I NEED SOME THINGS......

Hey y'all! I need some things and I was wondering if any of y'all could tell
me where to get them I get catalogs like JC
Whitney, LMC and Summit and stuff, but why not try to look for a cheaper deal
if I can find it elsewhere y'know? OK Here are a few things I am looking for
and if anyone can give me a link or something as to where I can get it, It'd
be much appreciated!

1.) Black door panels
2.) A METAL glove box liner
3.) Velvet or Velour Leopard/Tiger or Zebra
print bench seat covers
4.) Weatherstripping

Thanks y'all!
*~*~Lisa~*~*
*~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for girls~*~*
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:43:33 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I NEED SOME THINGS......

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com ;
offroad-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 6:37 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I NEED SOME THINGS......



>3.) Velvet or Velour Leopard/Tiger or
Zebra
>print bench seat covers


Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha...ROFLMAO! Sorry...I couldn't help myself.
Thanks for brightening up my evening!


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 21:47:40 -0400
From: "Marvin Meyer"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400 Flat tops

Someone was looking for flat tops, can't remember who, but came across this
info.
Just passing on.
flat top 9:1 pistons for the 400 series
motors. They are Ohio Piston & Pin in Indianapolis, IN. They don't sell
direct to the public but they have distributors nationwide. They can be
reached at (800) 428-4591. P/N is 1282P. Cast, flat top with 2 VRs, C/H is


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 21:59:27 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - free 66 parts

Phil:

I have a 66 F-250 w/240 cid. I'm not sure what has been spoken for but I
need a few odds and ends. Let me know if you have had interest in it. I'll
be more specific about what I need.

Thom B. (a/k/a Stock Man)
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 22:00:28 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - free 66 parts

Sorry List that was meant to be for Phil direct.........

Stock Man
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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 21:38:24 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - curse word

At 09:58 AM 8/18/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Mark McK. writes: >>Is Mazda a curse word here ?
>
>Y E P !.! . !
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.

Thanks Azie for being a watch dog while I am at work!

Stu
nuke GM and Mazda (even if they are part owned by Ford!)
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu

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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 22:40:11 -0400
From: Garry Bowling
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Oil pan removal

Thanks to all for the advice. I am in fact needing to replace the oil
pan gasket. It is leaking on the front and back and I am getting very
tired of the leaks. In fact since the engine was overhauld some 30,000
miles ago it has not stopped leaking. I have tried tightening the
bolts very gently without putting to much pressure on the pan but the
leaks continue. I finally believe my only alternative is removal and
install new gasket and permatex...Any suggestions or other alternatives
would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Garry Bowling
garrya bellsouth.net


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 22:49:23 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil Pan Gasket

In a message dated 8/18/99 8:27:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
theoconnors mindspring.com writes:

> Thanks to Stock Man for typing the procedure out of the manual for us.
> I've done it like that out of the manual and it works great.

Typing.....you're kidding right? I type with what I call a "two-fingered
modified" method (Every now and again my thumb gets involved by hitting the
space bar. I alternate thumbs when they get tired :-) Scanner/OCR combo
is the only way to go. I am glad the text was appreciated. If anyone else
needs something let me know. A line is forming in the back of the room.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 03:11:30 GMT
From: "madness madness"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Unknown

>From: "Danger"
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Unknown
>Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 01:09:16 -0700
>
> > Now I
> > have a 4400 watt screamer
>..........
>
>What?.... I can't hear you?
>
>
>Danger


What? speak a little louder I can't here you !


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 23:16:19 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Flip front ends.

In a message dated 8/18/99 6:37:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, hollandj ldl.net
writes:

> he thing I'm wondering is, how do you keep the front end of the
> truck lower than the rear? My '67 has had the original 352 replaced with a
> 302 and the front of the truck is already level with or higher than the
> rear.
Speaking of the front being higher than the rear, mines like that too but its
the original engine, 79 f250 4x4 remember 351M, has some sort of snowplow
package but the back is 3" lower than the front, looks goofy, i was thinking
of just getting a set of 4" lift rear springs, but im not sure yet, so any
ideas as to why the thing points to the sky are appriciated

Ian
see above:-)
True Blue Ford Blue
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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 03:18:53 GMT
From: "madness madness"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stereos and a rebuild

I have had a problem latley with my 92 Mustang Gt. I have gone threw to
sets of cat converters since I got it. Now I am looking for my 3rd set due
to a pressure crack that has formed in the pipe coming out of the manifold.
What would be the problem here? I am baffiled by it !
Am i looking at a rebuild or what ?


Also If anyone know were I can get 8 10" JL Audio w06's please let me
know. My cerwin Vegas arn't doing the job for me ;-)




Madness


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 23:20:40 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I NEED SOME THINGS......

In a message dated 8/18/99 9:44:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Bad4dFilly aol.com writes:

> 1.) Black door panels
> 2.) A METAL glove box liner
> 3.) Velvet or Velour Leopard/Tiger or
Zebra
>
> print bench seat covers
> 4.) Weatherstripping
>
1. try a salvage yard, even if they're not black you can paint them easily
2, again salvage yard, look for a rust free one then you can strip and paint
it,
3. look in the salvage yard for a gold flake lowrider 63 Imp*la ;-)
4. buy the new stuff, used stuff is always cracked and worn, not worth the
money you save.

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M (currently getting its new "paintjob in a can "
treatment)
True Blue Ford Blue
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 23:27:45 EDT
From: JefriHansn aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Transmission whoa's

Got the transmission back in my 79 F-150 4WD (NP 435) this past Saturday.
The pilot bearing had somehow came out - suspose when we couldn't get it to
line up right, pulled the transmission back about 4 inches, and put two studs
in the Lakewood bellhousing. Surmise that's why the top of the transmission
wouldn't go up easy - because the pilot was going back in at a bind.
Got it all back together - then it had this annoying click click click.
Myself, and a couple buddies here surmised it was the brand new throwout
bearing either gone bad (that would be my luck) or it had slipped off the
fork, or with the new spacer I made out of 16 ga stainless the fork was
hitting the clutch.
Took it BACK to the hobby shop today after finding a 351/400M bellhousing
(anybody want this Lakewood? - Can't beat the price - ) planning on a
quick housing change and fix the throwout. Right - & - wrong. Quick - yes -
from pulling into the hobby shop, taking the transfercase out, transmission
out, and sitting it on the work bench: 1hr & 53 Minutes. Damn I'm getting
good at that - what this make the third time in two weeks.
Wrong on the quick change though - it wasn't the throwout. No, I
couldn't be so lucky. The clicking isn't a clicking - it's a chipping.....


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