61-79-list-digest V3 #273

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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, August 4 1999 Volume 03 : Number 273

=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Re: Fuel System Repairs
FTE 61-79 - RE Safety
FTE 61-79 - Mr. Big Six
FTE 61-79 - Cold Air
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Changing the gearing
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re:WAS: R406A, was something about Freeze12 Now: BBQ Pyrotech.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Norman Bates drives a Chevy
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cold Air
Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder
FTE 61-79 - charity
FTE 61-79 - big 6 little 8
FTE 61-79 - mohawk
FTE 61-79 - throttle position solenoid
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Fuel System Repairs
Re: FTE 61-79 - mohawk
FTE 61-79 - Re:trans question
Re: FTE 61-79 - charity
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:To super duty or not
FTE 61-79 - Fan Shroud
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:To super duty or not
FTE 61-79 - safety
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cold Air
Re: FTE 61-79 - big 6 little 8
FTE 61-79 - old beasts
FTE 61-79 - Shorty and Daves
FTE 61-79 - horns
Re: FTE 61-79 - Fan Shroud
FTE 61-79 - *I AM THE* Mr. Big Six!!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Stall Converter
Re: FTE 61-79 - vin numbers
Re: FTE 61-79 - Shorty and Daves
FTE 61-79 - RE: trans question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Shorty and Daves
FTE 61-79 - E-Test Woes: Follow-up
Re: FTE 61-79 - Shorty and Daves
Re: FTE 61-79 - E-Test Woes: Follow-up
Re: FTE 61-79 - Shorty and Daves
FTE 61-79 - Misc. weekend stuffs
FTE 61-79 - master cylinder
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:To super duty or not
FTE 61-79 - Ignition Wiring
FTE 61-79 - New to List
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:To super duty or not
Re: FTE 61-79 - horns
RE: FTE 61-79 - Stall Converter
Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder
Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 04:01:50 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Fuel System Repairs

> i sold the 96 because i had to
> take it in for repairs on the fuel system, repair bill was $4,500.00
> so i sold it, real quick. i could buy a nice 78-79 truck for $4,500.00
>
> jeff grant
............

shesh.... that's absolutely ridiculous! What the heck did they do for
their $4,500? I'd have thought you could have had the entire fuel system
replaced with new parts from the dealer at far less than that.

Danger

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 06:48:39 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE Safety

YEAH

>Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 14:34:57 -0400
>From: frenz.6

osu.edu (Dale Frenz)
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Be a Trojan Man, Think Safety.
>
> I dont know about the rest of you, but Im emotionally attached to
>my body parts; fingers, feet, head, et el. Just use some friggin' common
>sense when working under vehicles. (I know its a rare commodity.) When I'm
>working under a vehicle, #1 I use the jackstands. #2 I also leave the jack
>raised up almost as high as the jack stands. #3 I also like to put an extra
>stand under there if room permits OR a big block of something somewhere
>that would gimme enough time to shimmy the hell outta there if the whole
>thing went squash.
> Auto parts stores are for buying your parts at. Their parking lots
>are NOT open-air mechanics' bays. You wanna put your windshield wiper
>blades on there, fine. Dont do something stupid like change your starter.
>Even if your car wasnt on a jack, some other shadetree mechanic will come
>blowing in there in his Duster and run over your legs sticking out.
> Im not preaching, because I've caught myself doing stupid things
>before too. You just gotta try and think everything through before you do
>it.
>
> A few things to remember: coolant aint cold; gas fumes like
>cigarettes; spinning belts, blades, and parts are not your friend; and
>heavy mobile objects like to mash things.

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Audi 4000CS Quattro
IsuzuG

prodigy.net

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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 05:59:42 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mr. Big Six

> (Sarcasm) Boy am I ever glad I said what I did about "that one auto maker". I
> don't really LIKE C!#$%'s, but my friend has one. And after spending time
> fixing mine, then working on his, I see some advantages. Thing is, my problems
> are mostly minor, but they're real pains. His are major such as: his rear end
> blew...on dry pavement, he smoked his tranny, and he just ruined his engine.
> And I think some of the post 80's Ford's are good trucks, but I wouldn't go with
> the straight six in anything that big again. Maybe a Ranger or Bronc 2.

> Keep in mind that a 300 inch 6 is pretty close to a 302 v-8...
> I'd take the big six over the little 8 in a truck..

Now, we can all see here that this young man is a new Ford Truck
Enthusiast. Welcome.

We will all try to answer your questions to the best of our ability, and
share our experience with you. But, a little word of advice. We are a
diverse group. I have a '65 F250 4X4 with the original drivetrain
(except for the engine) and no power steering or much in the way of
creature comfort, that I keep as clean as my '98 Contour, or my wife's
'93 Mustang convertible. Another guy may have a '67 F100 w/ 240/ 3
speed that he hauls wood in, that would come apart if you took a garden
hose to it . We have an unwritten agreement to not put any combination
of Ford truck down, whether it be a 460, or a 300 six, a show stopper or
a wood hauler. Ask questions and share your experience freely, have
some fun. That's why we're all here. But don't put anybody's
drivetrain or truck combination down. I know you were talking of your
own, but that very thing might float someone else's boat.

I've had Tony Marino locked in the shed all night, but I think he bribed
Stu with a pair of panties to let him loose, so look out. Mr. Big Six
will likely be visiting you soon. I'd be ready to apologize, he can get
a little ugly about this kind of thing. :-)
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 06:05:23 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cold Air

> A quote from the Vintage Air catalog I just received,
>
> "...regardless of claims to the contrary, HFC-134a is a more efficient
> refrigerant, heat transfer is better and exiting air temps from the
> HFC-134a systems is often colder than CFC-12 systems.
> On the other hand this efficiency can be a problem if you have a
> pressure-valve controlled system. Such systems include older GM, Ford, and
> Chrysler OE systems. Because the system is controlled by low side pressure
> and HFC-134a produces lower low-side pressures at a given temp, these old
> systems will regulate the refrigerant at CFC-12 levels and above optimal
> low-side pressures for HFC-134a. Higher vent temps result and this may not
> be acceptable at some slimate and humidity conditions."

My '98 Contour's air takes forever to cool down on a 95+ day. It might
be some other condition causing it, I don't know. I don't remember
older cars taking that long to get cold air.
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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 04:36:40 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Changing the gearing

So how is your fuel mileage after the swap? I've got a 3.00:1 in mine and
am thinking about the 2.73s.

Tom H

> ----------
> From: Garry Bowling[SMTP:garrya

bellsouth.net]
> Reply To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 1999 11:13 PM
> To: Ford Truck Enthusiasts
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Changing the gearing
>
> Spike,
> Funny you should ask....I just re-geared my the rear end in my 67 F100.
> It too has a 352 and the rear gear ratio was 3.25. I changed to a 2.73
> highway gear and am very very happy with the way it runs.
> Garry
> garrya

bellsouth.net
> 67F100 Longbed
>
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>
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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 04:45:41 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re:WAS: R406A, was something about Freeze12 Now: BBQ Pyrotech.

Looks like Tim Taylor has a new way to light the barie!!
> ----------
> From: Vogt Family[SMTP:vogt

oro.net]
> Reply To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 1999 11:29 PM
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: R406A, was something about Freeze12
>

> Yes, and he's also pretty cool because he likes to set barbecues on fire
> with liquid O2. It's quite a stunt. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ghg.ecn.purdue.edu/
>
> Birken
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>
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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 08:02:20 EDT
From: IanBoss69

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Norman Bates drives a Chevy

In a message dated 8/3/99 11:47:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
haring

fedora.net writes:

> Ian,
> It took me a second to realize you were talking about a certain fellow
> named Norman, and not yourself. I was a bit creeped out for a moment! :)
>
LOL,,,and YIKES,,,i'm wierd just not that wierd,,, ;-)

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
members.aol.com/ianboss69/page/home.htm
True Blue Ford Blue
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 08:07:34 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cold Air

William L. Ballinger wrote:
>
> > A quote from the Vintage Air catalog I just received,
> >
> > "...regardless of claims to the contrary, HFC-134a is a more efficient
> > refrigerant, heat transfer is better and exiting air temps from the
> > HFC-134a systems is often colder than CFC-12 systems.
> > On the other hand this efficiency can be a problem if you have a
> > pressure-valve controlled system. Such systems include older GM, Ford, and
> > Chrysler OE systems. Because the system is controlled by low side pressure
> > and HFC-134a produces lower low-side pressures at a given temp, these old
> > systems will regulate the refrigerant at CFC-12 levels and above optimal
> > low-side pressures for HFC-134a. Higher vent temps result and this may not
> > be acceptable at some slimate and humidity conditions."
>
> My '98 Contour's air takes forever to cool down on a 95+ day. It might
> be some other condition causing it, I don't know. I don't remember
> older cars taking that long to get cold air.

All the newer cars I've been in just don't cool at idle. If you start
them on a real hot day (cold motor) and don't drive at all, cold air
takes quite a while. I've seen it on all make and models. Whatever else
they did when they introduced this "more efficient" refrigerant isn't
working.

OX
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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 08:07:34 -0400
From: tfreeman

murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

Have you pulled the rubber boots back on the wheel cylinders? Mine leaked and
pulled air into the system, but showed no signs from the outside that there was
any problem. Replaced 'em and just about threw myself through the windshield
the first time I hit the brakes.

- -Ted

Ok, so I bled and bled and bled tonight. Used 1 1/2 of those big bottles
worth of brake fluid. Got some bubbles, but the last at least 6 pushes of
the pedal got no bubbles on each bleeder. The pedal still goes to the
floor. Could it possibly be the proportioning valve? I replaced the master
cylinder because I had to pump the pedal to get any brakes. The first push
would be to the floor, second a little farther up and then the third push
would be normal. I get a little bit of brakes now when the pedal reaches
the floor, not enough to really stop me though. I may try replacing the
proporioning valve tomorrow unless maybe I got a bad master cylinder?

Brett
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/fbird

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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 07:44:35 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - charity

>>Well, I guess I'm going to have to buy a Ch**y......My doctor said I had to
slow down...

Well, hey, Dennis, if you are going to throw money away, throw it my way.
I'll at least make good use of it. Are you going to slow down or come to a
complete stop? :-)

- -- John
jlagrone

inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 09:06:44 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Fuel System Repairs

In a message dated 8/4/99 3:06:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
danger

csolutions.net writes:

their $4,500? >>

That sounds about right for a replacement fuel pump, injectors and lines,
plus labor. Cant forget with the pre EUI diesels, the pump int just a pump,
but also the distributor. And with the amount of fuel those things have to
move, they tend to wear out the cam lobes pretty quick. Bet you all didnt
know that 95% of diesel clatter is the fuel pump, not the act of combustion.
Just a lil food for thought.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 06:21:50 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - mohawk

Thanks for your message at 07:56 AM 8/4/99 -0500, John LaGrone. Your
message was:
>When I was at A&M in the Corps, I had no hair anywhere.

I could have gone all day without this image...

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 08:20:50 -0500
From: "Don Yerhot"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:trans question

As Jason&Kathy already said, no problem on the bell housing. As far as the
driveshaft, just get the front part of the driveshaft, I believe that the
same rear section was used on all transmissions (Depending on the wheelbase
and rear end, in other words all trucks with a 133 wheelbase and 9" rear
would have the same rear section) Good luck! You'll be able to pull a 3
bottom plow in low gear with the 4 speed!!

DonY
65F250-351W
74F100-351W

change it over to a 4 speed. does anyone know if the driveshaft and bell
housing from the 3 speed will work with the 4 speed. I cant seem to get an
answer from anyone. id rather find out before hand, rather than after it is
all apart.>>

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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 06:25:39 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - charity

Thanks for your message at 07:44 AM 8/4/99 -0500, John LaGrone. Your
message was:
>>>Well, I guess I'm going to have to buy a Ch**y......My doctor said I had to
>slow down...
>
>Well, hey, Dennis, if you are going to throw money away, throw it my way.
>I'll at least make good use of it. Are you going to slow down or come to a
>complete stop? :-)
>
Seriously, folks...I haven't been to a doctor, and I don't need no
stinkin' Chebby.

For one thing, my students would never let me live it down...

Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 05:44:10 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:To super duty or not

- -----Original Message-----
From: David Wadson

>
snip
But ya gotta admit those '99 super dutys are BAD ASS! =)
>
>Oh sure, the super duties are pretty nasty looking trucks but if we all had
>$30,000-$40,000 to spend on a new truck, how many of us would still be
>messing around with these old beasts! :

Ummmm me ! I would not trade my 78 Bronco no matter what,,, and that nice
new 99 F350SD 4x4 Crew Cab I should be picking up in a few days will not
change a thing. Now I admit...If I had the same lump of cash sitting on my
desk, the base truck to work with (78 CC 4x4) and the time to do the work. I
would love to build my own 29k 78 CC 4x4,,, but that aint reality for me,,,
or many others I would think.

Erik Marquez
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal

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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 09:10:41 -0500
From: "Corey Johnson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fan Shroud

Does anyone know what possible years that a fan shroud could be
substituted for my '66 F100?
It isn't overheating too bad and I plan to goto a 3-core radiator
probably next year but for now I cannot afford to do it.

TIA
Corey Johnson

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 10:15:38 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:To super duty or not

In a message dated 08/04/1999 1:48:04 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
bronco78

mosquitonet.com writes:

new 99 F350SD 4x4 Crew Cab I should be picking up in a few days will not
change a thing. >>

*sigh* I keep tellin my parents that I want one of those......but they keep
giving me that "Umm....in your dreams hunny" look LOL I do think the new SD
are GORGEOUS
hard enough time makin enough money to put gas in my truck LOL> But on the
other hand, those old can look pretty darn good too,
they just have a lil more umm........character then the new trucks LOL

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 09:30:11 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - safety

>>a big block of something somewhere
that would gimme enough time to shimmy the hell outta there if the whole
thing went squash.

BTW, cinder blocks or concrete blocks or whatever you want to call them
crush very easily when hit with something heavy. What I'm trying to say is
that if you have something heavy sitting on a cinder block, it will probably
stay there. If, however, something heavy, like a Ford truck, falls from any
height onto a cinder block, the block will most likely crush in to concrete
dust.

- -- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 10:06:06 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Fan Shroud

> Does anyone know what possible years that a fan shroud could be
>substituted for my '66 F100?
>It isn't overheating too bad and I plan to goto a 3-core radiator
>probably next year but for now I cannot afford to do it.
>
Just take some measurements on the bolt separations ... (height and width)
and note which side the radiator hoses are on, and have a nice time in the
salvage yard :)

With a little more info someone may know they have an extra one ...

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 11:02:16 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: FTE 61-79 - *I AM THE* Mr. Big Six!!

>I've had Tony Marino locked in the shed all night, but I think he bribed
>Stu with a pair of panties to let him loose, so look out. Mr. Big Six
>will likely be visiting you soon. I'd be ready to apologize, he can get
>a little ugly about this kind of thing. :-)

Ha ha ha!!! 8-) That's just like putting Gojo with pumice in my
underwear! It's a shame I've been so busy lately I haven't been able to
follow the group!

I would like to update all of you on what I've been busy with. Last
weekend I pulled the 300-4v out of my '78 shortbed 4x4 and officially
called her quits for a while until her dana-60 / 429 transplants.

Well, the receiving truck of the 300 is my '76 F-250 4x4 which had "old
smokie" (the 360) in it. I'll share what was necessary to put the motor
in, as I know most of you will read this message in reverse to figure out
what it takes to take OUT a 300 and put IN a 360! But I always have been
a little weird! Anyway-- First thing is first-- the myth of motor
stancions. the 360 and 300 stancions ARE the same to a certain degree.
They DO NOT get swapped side to side. The problem was the 360's centerhole
for the motor mounts was 21 inches from the face of the 4spd tranny, and
the 300's were 23.5 inches. I had to unbolt the stanchions from the
frame, attempt to move them foreward on the frame, to the pre-drilled and
formed holes that were already in it. This involved moving both shock
towers too. Not a big deal. When the mounts were moved foreward, the
holes on the sides of the frame (4 of them) would not line up by about 1/4
of an inch between the spread. I *could* have bent the tower slightly and
gotten it to fit, but instead I used the towers off of my '78's 1/2 ton
frame. They fit perfect.

With the towers relocated, everything lined up perfectly. Everything
bolted together, and the only other problem left was the throttle pedal.
The pedal assembly is different for a 300 than for a 360. one has a formed
ball on the end, while the other has a pull ball and uses a braket to hold
the linkage. I had to swap my entire assemply out of the '78 into the '76
to use it as I had done before.. The Lokar throttle cable I used for my 4V
conversion is the only way to go in this setup.

Other than working out the kinks with a sticky thermostat, I've driven my
new found truck a few days now, and went to a custom exhaust place here in
Akron Ohio. I would recommend them to ANYBODY for custom needs. I spent
$320 bucks and had my duals off the manifolds bent over the starter, into a
3 inch Y pipe, single 3 inch into a stainless Pro-Flo muffler, which put it
back into Dual 2 1/4's and then duals out the rear of the truck on each
side. I will try to get pictures of this setup. It's the best sounding
setup for a 300 yet!

So that's where I'm at, if anybody has questions on what it takes to swap a
300 or 360 between a 1/2 ton 4x4 and a 3/4 ton 4x4, don't hesitate to ask!
We did it all in one day without any major problems. 8-)

>>Keep in mind that a 300 inch 6 is pretty close to a 302 v-8...

Not in my driveway... 8-)

Tony
tony

pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 10:09:19 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stall Converter

>Hey everybody, i have one question somebody suggested i should get a stall
>for my new 390. So i decided to order it and they said it would sound
>really cool. SO i did, and can somebody please tell me what the heck are
>they actually supposed to do. I ordered a 2500 stall converter. So please
>tell me. THanks a lot!!!!!
>
The basic explanation is this is the speed the converter will "stall" out
at, basically it will not become completely efficient until that speed,
some people (mostly racers) run the higher stalls because their motors run
higher revs and such all the time. It hurts around town efficiencies (as
you don't usually get that many revs around town), but has very little
effect on the highway. I looked into this, but no one had one as low as I
wanted and I decided it wasn't worth the couple hundred extra revs I wanted
(over stock) ... there was also a good explanation of it at
www.bmracing.com ... I think that's the right site, if you have problems
finding it, lemme know.

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 10:10:11 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - vin numbers

>> f10ye833581
>> f35ye845654
>
>
>Both VIN Nos. correspond to 1966 model year trucks; one is an F-100, the
>other F-350. The Y in the vin is troubling, however; for that model year,
>the engine code should be either an A, B or D (240, 300 or 352 cid). The E
>in the VIN translates to these trucks both being built in the Mahwah, NJ
>assembly plant.
>

I was gonna say that looked odd, I have a y in my VIN, but its for the 360
... didn't think they were runnin that motor back then ... what motor is in
the truck that you're trying to verify ???

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 11:07:28 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Shorty and Daves

> >> Admission fee was $2.00
>
> Admission fee? To a wrecking yard? Now I have heard of everything. They
> wouldn't be in business 3 minutes down here.
>
> -- John
...........

Most of the yards around here don't have an admission fee, but the best
yard is Pick & Pull which charges $2.00 admission. I'd rather pay the 2
bucks than deal with any of the other yards because P&P is the largest and
all vehicles are spaced far enough apart and elevated (on rims) which makes
my job much easier. Some of the free yards pack the vehicles in so tight
you can't get any work done, or they stack them which really sucks. It's
great to browse through a yard with all vehicles elevated because you can
spin one brake hub and watch the other hubs direction of rotation in order
to find a limited slip differential.

Danger
SLC, Utah

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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 13:08:48 -0400
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: trans question

Phil,
I convereted my 68 F100 from a 3 speed to a 4 speed. It's pretty simple...
Provided your 3 speed is a toploader, and you're replacing it with
a 4 speed Toploader, the tranny will bolt to the bellhousing. You
may need to replace your clutch disk (if the spline-count on the input
of the 4 speed is different) and throw-out bearing, but you were gonna do
that anyway, right? Except for that, everything in the bellhousing will work
fine. The 4 speed Toploader is a bit longer in the case, so you'll need to
get your driveshaft shortened. Finally, you'll need to make sure the
spline count on the output of the 3 and 4 speed are the same (or else get a
driveshaft yoke w/ the proper spline count).
If you have any more questions, email me off list.

Ohio Bill
1968 Torino GT 429 4v 4 speed
1968 F100 360 4v 4 speed

>I just bought a 70 F100, it has a 300 six and three speed trans. I want to
>change it over to a 4 speed. does anyone know if the driveshaft and bell
>housing from the 3 speed will work with the 4 speed. I cant seem to get an
>answer from anyone. id rather find out before hand, rather than after it is
>all apart.
>Phil Beattie
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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 10:27:31 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Shorty and Daves

Does anyone know of any u-pick and pull yards in Washington. All the
"regular" yards around here (Seattle area) seem to think that their parts
must be made of gold or something...

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Danger
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Shorty and Daves

>> >> Admission fee was $2.00
>>
>> Admission fee? To a wrecking yard? Now I have heard of everything. They
>> wouldn't be in business 3 minutes down here.
>>
>> -- John
>...........
>
> Most of the yards around here don't have an admission fee, but the best
>yard is Pick & Pull which charges $2.00 admission. I'd rather pay the 2
>bucks than deal with any of the other yards because P&P is the largest and
>all vehicles are spaced far enough apart and elevated (on rims) which makes
>my job much easier. Some of the free yards pack the vehicles in so tight
>you can't get any work done, or they stack them which really sucks. It's
>great to browse through a yard with all vehicles elevated because you can
>spin one brake hub and watch the other hubs direction of rotation in order
>to find a limited slip differential.
>
>Danger
>SLC, Utah
>
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 11:57:09 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - E-Test Woes: Follow-up

Yo Gang:

Well, I fixed a few things, and as usual fixing several things at once, I can't
say exactly which one (or even which combination) actually solved the problem.

I believe that leaning out the idle mixture, lowering the idle rpm, and fixing
an odd choke problem made the difference.

When the first test was done, I had the idle mixture screws turned out exactly 4
turns. I set them both to 3 turns out w/ not much change in idle quality, so
they were probably set a little too rich. I then adjusted the throttle
positioner to get idle speed down to an indicated 600 rpm on my "el cheapo"
SunPro mini tach in the dash. The "test" indicated idle speed was a lot lower
(down from 1177 on the 1st test to 739 on the 2nd test).

The first thing I saw when I opened up the air cleaner was that the choke plate
was about 30 degrees from vertical w/ engine up to operating temps and ambient
air temp over 90 degrees! After fiddling w/ the linkage to find the cause of
the problem, it turned out that the external spring on the choke pull-down unit
was fighting the bi-metallic thermostat and keeping the choke from fully
opening.

I took off the pull-down unit and removed the external spring to prevent that
problem and when re-installing the pull down unit, I snapped off the screw that
attaches it to the rear of the carb throttle body :-(. To get around that
temporarily, I plugged off the vacuum source for the pull-down and removed the
link between the pull-down and the rest of the choke linkages so it won't bind
or jam up. Sometime before this winter, I'll have to remove the carb and get
the broken screws out of the body so I have a working choke pull-down again. At
least the choke's working correctly for now.

While I was under the hood, I replaced the fuel pump and, of course, since the
old flare nut was frozen in the pump inlet fitting, I had to cut off the hard
line to get the old pump out and then make a new line for the new pump. Even w/
a tubing bender, getting the fuel line bent to the correct routing is a
time-consuming, iterative process. Most of the time I spent on the entire
project was getting the new fuel line bent.

While I was at it, I crawled under the truck (didn't even have to jack it up)
and replaced all the rubber lines from the front tank to the fuel pump and all
the lines on the fuel tank switch valve. Now the only rubber fuel line I
haven't replaced is the line from the rear tank to the hard line. I'll have to
drop the rear fuel tank to get to that one, so it's a future project. I also
replaced all the rubber hoses for the evaporative emissions system fuel tank
vents, except for the rear tank.

Here are the test results before and after my ministrations:

Before:
idle (1177 rpm) 2.19% CO, 57.6 ppm HC, 12.57% CO2
2243 rpm 0.48% CO, 37.3 ppm HC, 12.54% CO2

After:
idle (739 rpm) 0.01% CO, 69.0 ppm HC, 11.27% CO2
2432 rpm 0.20% CO, 55.9 ppm HC, 10.61% CO2

Once again, I am confused by the test results. Even though CO was down
dramatically at idle and cut by half at high rpm, the HC is up. The HC limit is
400 ppm, so my truck is still well w/in the legal limit, but I don't understand
why HC is up.

As for the temp gauge/thermostat problem, it turns out that the wire for the
temp sending unit is bad. I can jiggle it to get the temp gauge working, so
replacing that is yet another project.

Thanks to all the guys that replied both personally and on the list w/ helpful
suggestions.

Dave R (M-block devotee)

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 11:14:54 -0700
From: "James A. Doty"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Shorty and Daves

Radoje Spasojevic wrote:

> Does anyone know of any u-pick and pull yards in Washington. All the
> "regular" yards around here (Seattle area) seem to think that their parts
> must be made of gold or something...

There's a U-Pullit or two here in Vancouver, WA.

When I lived in Spokane there was a huge wrecking yard out in the Spokane
valley. I don't remember the name of the place, but you can see it from I-90.

I've picked up parts at U-Pullit and the yard in Spokane off and on for the
last 9 years and I've gotten (I think) a good deal on everything I've bought.

James A. Doty
dotyj

earthlink.net

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 12:02:14 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - E-Test Woes: Follow-up

High HC means you are running rich, or your cat. (if you have one) is not
working up to snuff.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Resch
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 10:56 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - E-Test Woes: Follow-up

>Yo Gang:
>
>Well, I fixed a few things, and as usual fixing several things at once, I
can't
>say exactly which one (or even which combination) actually solved the
problem.
>
>I believe that leaning out the idle mixture, lowering the idle rpm, and
fixing
>an odd choke problem made the difference.
>
>When the first test was done, I had the idle mixture screws turned out
exactly 4
>turns. I set them both to 3 turns out w/ not much change in idle quality,
so
>they were probably set a little too rich. I then adjusted the throttle
>positioner to get idle speed down to an indicated 600 rpm on my "el cheapo"
>SunPro mini tach in the dash. The "test" indicated idle speed was a lot
lower
>(down from 1177 on the 1st test to 739 on the 2nd test).
>
>The first thing I saw when I opened up the air cleaner was that the choke
plate
>was about 30 degrees from vertical w/ engine up to operating temps and
ambient
>air temp over 90 degrees! After fiddling w/ the linkage to find the cause
of
>the problem, it turned out that the external spring on the choke pull-down
unit
>was fighting the bi-metallic thermostat and keeping the choke from fully
>opening.
>
>I took off the pull-down unit and removed the external spring to prevent
that
>problem and when re-installing the pull down unit, I snapped off the screw
that
>attaches it to the rear of the carb throttle body :-(. To get around that
>temporarily, I plugged off the vacuum source for the pull-down and removed
the
>link between the pull-down and the rest of the choke linkages so it won't
bind
>or jam up. Sometime before this winter, I'll have to remove the carb and
get
>the broken screws out of the body so I have a working choke pull-down
again. At
>least the choke's working correctly for now.
>
>While I was under the hood, I replaced the fuel pump and, of course, since
the
>old flare nut was frozen in the pump inlet fitting, I had to cut off the
hard
>line to get the old pump out and then make a new line for the new pump.
Even w/
>a tubing bender, getting the fuel line bent to the correct routing is a
>time-consuming, iterative process. Most of the time I spent on the entire
>project was getting the new fuel line bent.
>
>While I was at it, I crawled under the truck (didn't even have to jack it
up)
>and replaced all the rubber lines from the front tank to the fuel pump and
all
>the lines on the fuel tank switch valve. Now the only rubber fuel line I
>haven't replaced is the line from the rear tank to the hard line. I'll
have to
>drop the rear fuel tank to get to that one, so it's a future project. I
also
>replaced all the rubber hoses for the evaporative emissions system fuel
tank
>vents, except for the rear tank.
>
>Here are the test results before and after my ministrations:
>
>Before:
>idle (1177 rpm) 2.19% CO, 57.6 ppm HC, 12.57% CO2
>2243 rpm 0.48% CO, 37.3 ppm HC, 12.54% CO2
>
>After:
>idle (739 rpm) 0.01% CO, 69.0 ppm HC, 11.27% CO2
>2432 rpm 0.20% CO, 55.9 ppm HC, 10.61% CO2
>
>Once again, I am confused by the test results. Even though CO was down
>dramatically at idle and cut by half at high rpm, the HC is up. The HC
limit is
>400 ppm, so my truck is still well w/in the legal limit, but I don't
understand
>why HC is up.
>
>As for the temp gauge/thermostat problem, it turns out that the wire for
the
>temp sending unit is bad. I can jiggle it to get the temp gauge working,
so
>replacing that is yet another project.
>
>Thanks to all the guys that replied both personally and on the list w/
helpful
>suggestions.
>
>Dave R (M-block devotee)
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 12:05:57 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Shorty and Daves

Thanks for the info.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: James A. Doty
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 11:09 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Shorty and Daves

>Radoje Spasojevic wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know of any u-pick and pull yards in Washington. All the
>> "regular" yards around here (Seattle area) seem to think that their parts
>> must be made of gold or something...
>
>There's a U-Pullit or two here in Vancouver, WA.
>
>When I lived in Spokane there was a huge wrecking yard out in the Spokane
>valley. I don't remember the name of the place, but you can see it from
I-90.
>
>I've picked up parts at U-Pullit and the yard in Spokane off and on for the
>last 9 years and I've gotten (I think) a good deal on everything I've
bought.
>
>James A. Doty
>dotyj

earthlink.net
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 15:54:25 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Misc. weekend stuffs

Well, after listening to everyone else's tales of great weekends workin or
wheelin, I thought I'd pass along my weekend, while it didn't involve a lot
of work (just lots of fun) I got a lot done ...

First off Sat. was spent hooking a trailer brake system up to my truck ...
got the switch hidden behind and underneath the ash tray, it works great, I
can get to it easily, and I'm not goin to hit my knees on it. Not to
mention its not visible from outside the truck, so it looks stock too :)
See http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/images/autocross/m2/image028.jpg
....also image027.jpg

That meant on Sun I could tow the car to the track! :) (see
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/images/autocross/m2/image026.jpg) where I
spent the day watchin lots of action. Its a favorite track of mine, and we
had a ball, the weather was good, we had 2 couches (well love seats) to set
on the trailer, some coolers of non-alcoholic beverages, and lots of
racing! One car at a time on the track for time for those of you who were
thinkin I was rubbin fenders with people ... there are some pics up at :

www.neons.org/~wiggs/mar

and I have a few more at ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/images/autcross/m2/
unfortunately mine's not set up as well yet, runnin out of time and we've
got a Y2K compliance check tomorrow ...

It was a great weekend, only went off the track once myself, and only lost
a second when I did it, also bettered all of my previous times on the
track. No matter what people tell you, you can always get better with more
seat time.

The last thing was kind of for Darrell, but the rest of you will appreciate
it too ... at one of the halls across the sidewalk they're putting a new
roof and some other stuff on. I was droppin off some mail and I noticed a
nice old Ford truck pullin out of the lot ... dark green (always catches my
attention :), when it turned it was a Super Camper Special! I couldn't
believe it and had to look again. The truck was beautiful, the paint was
actually shiny, and there was very little if any rust at all! A true
miracle here in the middle of the U.S. where the roads get white with salt
... It was pretty cool, hopefully I'll be able to take a closer look in
the next day or so if he's got it parked out back ...

Well if any of you want copies of the pics I listed above (I know Azie has
trouble gettin web stuff for instance) lemme know, I'll forward them to you
off the list.

Well have a good one and thanks for puttin up with my ramblings :)

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 17:32:33 EDT
From: BDIJXS

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

Brett,

Did you make sure to adjust out the brake pads till they are touching the
drums????

Thats all I can think of!

CJ

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 18:06:42 -0400
From: David Wadson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:To super duty or not

>*sigh* I keep tellin my parents that I want one of those......but they keep
>giving me that "Umm....in your dreams hunny" look LOL I do think the new SD
>are GORGEOUS
>hard enough time makin enough money to put gas in my truck LOL> But on the
>other hand, those old can look pretty darn good too,
>they just have a lil more umm........character then the new trucks LOL
>
>*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
>*~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*

It all depends on what your definition of "character" is. Personally, I
love the styling of the 73-79 trucks, especially compared to the bland 80's
boxes. The newer F150's look like a Ford Taurus station wagon on steroids
but at least the Super Duties are a really wicked looking truck. Not
everyone would ditch their old trucks but if you had a brand new 1999 F250
Super Duty 4x4, how much time would you really want to spend out in the
driveway under a greasy, dirty, rusty 78 F100?

For me, it's much more economical (and a good mechanical learning
experience) to keep driving the old vehicle rather than sinking a lot of
cash into a new truck. My philosophy is that I'd rather put $30,000 into
buying a house rather than a truck that will be depreciate in value very
quickly. I thought that reasoning would keep my boss off my back for a
while...but he said I could afford both... .

I can handle driving an old Ford, but the constant badgering gets a little
much. Sure I'm sentimentally attached after all the work I put into getting
it on the road but I really do like the truck... Maybe getting the
rusty box fixed will get SWMBO off my back... :-)

David Wadson - wadsond

air.on.ca
"PS2" - 78 F100/302/C4
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada

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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 18:40:51 -0700
From: "O'Connor"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ignition Wiring

Wiring Harnesses for a 66 F100 are not available at any price. If you
happen to run into a source for them, let us know.

Tim 1966 F100, 352, SWB, Custom Cab, Power Steering & Overdive
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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1999 16:18:00 +0100
From: Allen Repashy
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New to List

Hello All,

Just subscribed to list, and Live in San Diego. I have had many Ford trucks, and am a veteran Desert Racer .I raced Class 8 (Unlimited Truck) class
for many years in a highly modified F-150. Now I am taking it easy, and just picked up a very original 1965 F-100 stepside. It has a new 390 and an
old FMX tranny (came with a C-6 in the bed)
The front drums are shot, and the Manual Steering has to go. Will later 1/2 ton disks/spindles bolt on? How about the Power steering Box? Looks like
it will bolt up, but I am not sure about the pitman arm/centerlink. I still have an old Trick rear steer box with a worm gear in it from a police car
(quick steer 16-1, 3 turns lock to lock) sitting around. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Allen Repashy

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 20:17:25 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:To super duty or not

In a message dated 8/4/99 3:08:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time, wadsond

air.on.ca
writes:

driveway under a greasy, dirty, rusty 78 F100? >>

Id say somewhere around 6 a week. I mean honestly, how do you bond with your
truck if you dont get down and dirty with it on a regular basis. I mean new
trucks are nice, and there must be some pride in your voice when you say "I
bought that," but nothing, and I mean nothing compares to saying "I built
that," Im sure you all know what I mean. I'll see ya

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 20:31:46 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - horns

In a message dated 08/04/1999 2:57:45 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com writes:

no, except they are on your truck instead of mine. >>

I have the JC Whitneys 35 sound horn on my truck
rooster etc.> as well as the wolf whistle.....oh boy now lemme tell ya how
much fun THAT is LOL If I see a cutie drivin by I just give him a lil whistle
*evil grin*

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~Silly boys...truck are for GIRLS!~*~*
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 18:14:41 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Stall Converter

What are you using your truck for? A higher stall speed than stock torque
converter can have a torque multiplying effect -- like taller rear gears.
Basically what this means is that under ideal textbook conditions (the
theoretical ones that everyone can get close to but no one ever actually
sees ;0) ) with the brakes locked and the engine at wot the torque converter
would stop slipping at 2500 rpm. What this means on the street is that the
engine must rev higher before the truck starts moving (like a larger
numerical ratio rear end -- 4.11 vs 3.00). Drag racers use this to get the
engine further into the torque curve to allow a faster launch -- good for
the track and if that is your application go for it. It can suck on the
street because at part throttle the truck will have the feeling of being
"loose", gas consumption will be up, trans fluid temp will increase and
accelerate wear on the tranny, etc.

Tom H

> ----------
> From: Daniel Hansen[SMTP:endroman

hotmail.com]
> Reply To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 12:32 AM
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stall Converter
>
> Hey everybody, i have one question somebody suggested i should get a stall
>
> for my new 390. So i decided to order it and they said it would sound
> really cool. SO i did, and can somebody please tell me what the heck are
> they actually supposed to do. I ordered a 2500 stall converter. So
> please
> tell me. THanks a lot!!!!!....

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