61-79-list-digest V3 #271

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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, August 3 1999 Volume 03 : Number 271

=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder
Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder
FTE 61-79 - real trucks
FTE 61-79 - battery explosions
FTE 61-79 - R406A, was something about Freeze12
FTE 61-79 - :Re
Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Bad news
FTE 61-79 - Battery Exploding
FTE 61-79 - AC systems and Freeze12
FTE 61-79 - AC systems and Freeze12
FTE 61-79 - hood ornaments
FTE 61-79 - RE: Changing the gearing
FTE 61-79 - Re: Edelbrock carb not acting right
FTE 61-79 - new 390 running, some problems---- Fixed
FTE 61-79 - Norman Bates drives a Chevy
FTE 61-79 - Northeastern Native American Tendencies within Central Texans
Re: FTE 61-79 - R406A, was something about Freeze12
FTE 61-79 - - Battery Exploding!
FTE 61-79 - I have sinned
FTE 61-79 - Ignition Wiring
Re: FTE 61-79 - I have sinned
RE: FTE 61-79 - Changing the gearing
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ignition Wiring
FTE 61-79 - Edlebrock carb
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ignition Wiring
Re: FTE 61-79 - new 390 running, some problems---- Fixed
FTE 61-79 - R-12 to 134A & Exploding batteries
FTE 61-79 - Be a Trojan Man, Think Safety.
FTE 61-79 - Wanted: 460 parts
FTE 61-79 - How to test an undercharged A/C???
FTE 61-79 - RE: HFC-134a
FTE 61-79 - Shorty & Daves
FTE 61-79 - vin numbers
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:
Re: FTE 61-79 - Be a Trojan Man, Think Safety.
Re: FTE 61-79 - hood ornaments
Re: FTE 61-79 - vin numbers
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C pistons in a 400M
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 into a 76 F250
Re: FTE 61-79 - Automatic choke
Re: FTE 61-79 - real trucks
Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:
Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder
Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder
FTE 61-79 - Pistons
FTE 61-79 - Genetic Mutations, or what they name GM cars after.
Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder
Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder
FTE 61-79 - trans question
Re: FTE 61-79 - trans question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Changing the gearing
Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder
FTE 61-79 - RE: Changing the gearing

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 07:22:57 EDT
From: GMontgo930

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

In a message dated 8/3/99 12:17:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
danger

csolutions.net writes:

> > >
> > > > Did I miss anything?
> ........
>
> > Bleed some more, and then bleed even more! It takes forever to get all
> > the air out of the system.
> >
> > Jason
> .........
>
> "but my leg is getting tired" hehe...
>
> I'm very happy with the results obtained from using a power brake
> bleeder system to bleed the brakes on my 69 F250's. It's kinda like a small
> canister with a hand pump attached and nice long hose with fitting for the
> attachments which fasten to the master cylinder. I always use a clear hose
> at the wheel end so that I may see the results of my work, and it's always
a
> pleasure to watch the bubbles and dirty fluid comming out of the bleeder
> valve.
>
> Danger
>
>

I use a variation on that theme. Ive made my own vacuum bleeder out of an old
brake fluid bottle and gobs of clear tubing (actually two pieces for a fluid
in & vacuum out). When Im ready to bleed, I hook one up to the wheel bleeder
and the other to manifold vacuum with the engine running. Then just crack the
bleeder and whoosh them bubbles come flying out (along with the dirt, grunge,
& other trash)! Works well. Just dont let the master cylinder run dry (my
teenagers job to keep it full) or let the catch bottle get so full that it
sucks fluid up the vacuum line into the engine. Whoa will she smoke for a
while!

My two bits worth.....
George
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 08:06:05 -0400
From: tfreeman

murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

Bleed....bleed....bleed some more. Sounds like you still have air in the
system.

- -Ted

"Brett Yerks" on 08/02/99 09:50:52 PM

Please respond to 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com

To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

Well, I replaced the master cylinder on my 76 F250 tonight but now the pedal
sinks to the floor everytime. I bench blead the master cylinder just like
the instructions said, put the little plugs they supplied in the output
ports, then keep pushing the plunger in about 1", until it is firm and only
goes about 1/8". Then I installed it and blead the brakes, now the pedal
sinks right to the floor. Did I miss anything? There aren't any leaks, I'm
not losing any fluid. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Brett
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/fbird

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 08:50:49 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - real trucks

> ... ford quit making real trucks in 1979, i don't want to
> offend your truck, ...

HEY ... a very inventive and industrious person can adapt
one of those 80-86 variants into a real truck ... at least they
still used mostly real parts (except for those *&#$^

metric
nuts and bolts)

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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 08:00:16 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - battery explosions

>>I know that a battery can explode, but I guess like most people, I always
assumed that it couldn't happen to me.

Don,

Lead/acid batteries give off Hydrogen gas. Hydrogen is extremely explosive.
(Remember the Hindenburg and the Challenger?) In chemistry we used to use
electrolysis to separate water into hydrogen and oxygen. We would get about
2 cc of H in a test tube then light it with a match. It sounds like a small
fire cracker. Dead or low batteries give off more H than a good battery.
Cigarettes and batteries don't mix. this is also why you don't hook the last
connection on jumper cables in the vicinity of the battery.

- -- John
jlagrone

inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 08:26:15 -0500
From: "Don Yerhot"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - :Re

Son, son, you said the "C" word here, and you called a Ford truck a pile of
crap! We'll let you live this time, but the native's are up in arm's. I'm
one of the nice guy's on the list, but don't let Stu get ahold of you!

DonY
65F250-351W
74F100-351W

of
crap. This could be attributed to the fact that they guy we bought it from
never took care of it, but I really don't care for the engine (300 straight
six). My mom has an 89 Probe, and we've never had a single problem with
it.
It's starting to go now, and rust is taking over, but what can you expect
for 10
years of snow driving. I'm trying to save a little money to a late 70's or
early 80's Ford truck, and install a 460 in it that I think I can buy.
Finally,
I prefer Fords, but I believe I could live with a Chevy if I had to.
>>

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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 06:28:48 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

Thanks for your message at 11:52 PM 8/2/99 EDT, JUMPINFORD

aol.com. Your
message was:
Twice now that one wheel lockin up on hard breaking has caused me to
>go into a wild sideways slide. Thank goodness for quick reflexes, and empty
>roads (aside from the idiot that made me go into the slide in the first
>place).

Er, uh...have you considered not waiting? I know you live in the wide open
spaces of Nevada, but...

Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 06:45:22 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Bad news

Thanks for your message at 12:20 AM 8/3/99 EDT, TWL1911

aol.com. Your
message was:
>hey
>well i used to KEYWORD USED to drive a chevy and talk about gutless as soon
>as i had my ford we never drive it anymore it collects dust now and rust to.
>the only advantage to chevys because they suck so bad is parts are cheap but
>what can i say its a bowtie truck. this is ford dountry
>travis

Well, I guess I'm going to have to buy a Ch**y......My doctor said I had to
slow down...

Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 07:06:09 -0700
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Battery Exploding

> I wrote:
> With all this talk of safety, I am reminded of my two serious
> encounters. One was when I allowed metal to arc the terminals on a
> battery and it exploded. Fortunately no damage to me; but the shirt
> rotted away.

>Don Wrote:
>Can you tell us what the explosion was like? How long did it take for
it to
>explode when the terminals were bridged?

>I'm glad to hear that you were OK, but at least you can now pass the
info
>on to us. I know that I have bridged terminals before to test for a
dead
>battery. I guess I won't be doing that anymore.

It's been 30 years ago that this happened but it seemed that it happened
pretty quickly. As another list member pointed out, a battery can
explode from a source other than arcing the terminals.

There's been many times since that event that I've hooked up battery
chargers or jumper cables and created a spark and nothing untoward has
happened.

Tim Bowman
71 F100

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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 09:57:32 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AC systems and Freeze12

>>Have you looked into R406a? http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.autofrost.com/

Yep. Ox, I think you pointed me in the right direction on my research. I
wound up reading all sorts of EPA rules and went to as many web sites as I
could find. When I read the contents of the substitutes, I wasn't satisfied
about performance in my application. The big problem that kept me with R12
was the increased heat in front of the radiator. For example, in NJ you
might get 10 days of 100 degree heat. Here in TX it is not unusual to get a
string of 45 days where the temp goes over 100. R406a is a good alternative,
but I didn't feel like it would perform for me the way I wanted. And, again,
I couldn't find anyone locally selling the stuff. I did not find any
substitute that gave the equivalent performance of R12.

- -- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 11:23:16 -0400
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Changing the gearing

Spike,
I know this doesn't really answer your question of how much a rear
gear swap will cost, but...
What's your rear gears now? Your rearend should have a metal tag w/
the gear ratio stamped on it. Did you look?
You can lower your effective rearend ratio by running bigger (i.e.,
bigger in diameter) rear tires. Finally, the following web page has an
MPH-RPM convertor which is quite handy (you'll need to measure the
diameter of your current rear tires).
Good luck.
Ohio Bill
1968 Torino GT (429 4V 4speed)
1968 F100 (360 4V 4speed)
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 08:32:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Edelbrock carb not acting right

You can't adjust one screw at a time, because it will
idle on the other side until you are way out of
balance. Start with both screws out like you said, but
turn in one side 1/4 turn, then the other the same.
When it gets rough, back them both off the same way.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V

>My bother-in-law has a new edelbrock carb and intake
>on his '78 F150302
>(both were bought new for this aplication). We were
>trying to adjustthe
>mixture screws the other day and they were not acting
>right IMHO. Itseemed
>to run best with one out a couple turns and one in
>all the way! That
>doesn't seem right to me.
>Usually I start with them out 2-3 turns to get it
>running and thenslowly
>turn one in until it starts to run rough, then back
>it out until itsmooths
>out and add 1/2 - 3/4 turn out (repeat with other
>side). Does thatsound
>correct to you guys?
>When I did that to his it wouldn't run rough until I
>had one in ALL theway
>and did this to the second one. But if I try to turn
>them both in allthe
>way it would die (but it is supposed to do that).
>It reminds me of the way a Holley acts with a bad
>powervalve, but thisisn't
>a Holley.

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 10:40:32 -0500
From: JOHN E DOLSON
Subject: FTE 61-79 - new 390 running, some problems---- Fixed

>
Isn't it a great feeling getting that thing fired up ? First thing I
would
do now is set the timing close to what you plan on running it ... 8-10
whatever you think is a good starting place ... then adjust the mixture
and
such ... part of the reason its running on is because you have the idle
set
up for breakin ... once that sets down it should run a bit better ... the
power thing I would guess is more of a timing issue ... though someone
suggested the float, that is also a possibility ...

It was a timing problem, I forgot to unplug the vaccum advance when I
first timed it, so my timing was about 25 degrees off. everytings fine
now, runs great, lots of power. Was I supposed to set the Idle mixture
for breakin? I just put the carb that was on the 360 ( that was
originally in the truck) on it, with no adjust ments, seems to work fine.
adjusting the timing also solved the, "running backwards" problem- it
really sucks when an engine does that, especially when you have power
steering--- messy.

John Dolson
Jefferson City, MO
1976 F150 Ranger XLT

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 11:41:33 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Norman Bates drives a Chevy

IanBoss69

aol.com

>>>I believe I could live with a Chevy if I had to.

> wise words from a guy that likes to play make-believe in his dead
> mothers clothes,,"We all go a little crazy sometimes."

Ian,
It took me a second to realize you were talking about a certain fellow
named Norman, and not yourself. I was a bit creeped out for a moment! :)

- -don

- --
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 11:31:47 -0400
From: David Henderson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Northeastern Native American Tendencies within Central Texans

John LaGrone wrote:
>Of course, I'm weird anyway. I also got a Mohawk haircut back in May. And no,
>I'm not a kid.

After this comment, I think you need to put up a picture of yourself next to
Henry on your web page -;^)

Dave H

PS I assume that this was to gain sympathy from SWMBO in order to get the AC
fixed in Henry :^). I had to move to the old "quarter inch and white-walls"
here in Virginia. I was starting to have flash-backs to August in College
Station with the 100F temps and 90%+ humidity (with no AC in Brownie).

- --
_
_| ~~. David Henderson
\, _} DHenders

VT.Edu
\( Gig 'em Aggies! '93

Currently at:
Interdepartmental Genetics Program
2010 Litton Reaves Hall
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
Blacksburg, VA 24061
(540)231-4773
(540)231-5014
DHenders

VT.Edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dasc.vt.edu/henderson/dhenderson.html
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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 11:44:49 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - R406A, was something about Freeze12

John Strauss wrote:
>

> I converted my '90 F150 from R12 to R406A about 2 months ago and it cools
> like crazy. A really nice "feature" of R406A is you can discuss any
> problems or concerns with the inventor, George Goble, and he answers his
> email promptly. I am looking forward to doing my '91 Bronco next.

Is this one of the one's that will eventually be banned. They claim no
CFC'c, but it has R-22 in it???

OX
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 10:55:11 -0500
From: JOHN E DOLSON
Subject: FTE 61-79 - - Battery Exploding!

I had a battery explode once in a 1995 F500, to what we think must've
been an internal failure, the hood wasn't even open. it was a pretty damn
powerful bast, broke one headlight, put a big dent (bump from the
outside) in the hood , and also one in the fender, blew the whole top of
the battery off, it was loud too. lucky that truck had dual batterys,

A woman I work with also had a battery explode , but it was due mostly to
her stupidity, she and one of her friends was trying to jumpstart her car
in the dark, since she didn't have a flashlight handy she tried to
illuminate the engine compartment with her ZIPPO lighter, I don't think I
need to explain the rest

John Dolson,
Jefferson City, MO
1976 F150 Ranger XLT

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 17:02:03 +0100
From: robertwerner

postmaster.co.uk
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I have sinned

(Sarcasm) Boy am I ever glad I said what I did about "that one auto maker". I
don't really LIKE C!#$%'s, but my friend has one. And after spending time
fixing mine, then working on his, I see some advantages. Thing is, my problems
are mostly minor, but they're real pains. His are major such as: his rear end
blew...on dry pavement, he smoked his tranny, and he just ruined his engine.
And I think some of the post 80's Ford's are good trucks, but I wouldn't go with
the straight six in anything that big again. Maybe a Ranger or Bronc 2.

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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 10:58:40 -0500
From: "Mike Warren"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ignition Wiring

I've got a 66 F100 that I am having ignition problems with - I am not sure
if the ignition switch is bad or if it is the wires, coil or starter. Can
anybody tell me how I might connect the wires to get it to start without the
key/ignition connected?

Also, Does anybody know what the price would be for a new wiring harness for
a 66 F100

Thanks
Mike
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 09:06:45 -0700
From: "Sam Weatherby"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I have sinned

Keep in mind that a 300 inch 6 is pretty close to a 302 v-8...
I'd take the big six over the little 8 in a truck..
-srw

- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 1999 9:02 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I have sinned

> (Sarcasm) Boy am I ever glad I said what I did about "that one auto
maker". I
> don't really LIKE C!#$%'s, but my friend has one. And after spending time
> fixing mine, then working on his, I see some advantages. Thing is, my
problems
> are mostly minor, but they're real pains. His are major such as: his rear
end
> blew...on dry pavement, he smoked his tranny, and he just ruined his
engine.
> And I think some of the post 80's Ford's are good trucks, but I wouldn't
go with
> the straight six in anything that big again. Maybe a Ranger or Bronc 2.
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 09:10:06 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Changing the gearing

If you have a 9 inch rear end the swap can be very easy. You can simply
swap the center section with one from the "auto recyclers" that has the
ratio you want. The catch it that you have to get a center section from a
unit that has the same number of axel splines as your current rear end. If
you have a different type of rear end then the gear change requires setting
up the gears properly. Not overly difficult but possibly more than you want
to tackle. I have gotten a quote from one place for about $1000 to swap
gears on a 9 inch. I've heard from others that it was less than $500. Shop
around and see.

Tom H.

> ----------
> From: Spike188

aol.com[SMTP:Spike188

aol.com]
> Reply To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 1999 1:08 AM
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Changing the gearing
>
> Just curious
> I have a 67 F100 with a 352 and auto trans. Runs great but the gearing is
>
> kind of high. At freeway speed, it revs a little higher than I would
> like.
> What would it take to have the gearing changed so that it doesnt rev quite
> as
> high on the freeway. I dont need a lot of low end torque. I wouldnt be
> doing it myself. Any ideas what something like that would cost? Thanks
> in
> advance!
> Spike
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>
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 12:10:29 EDT
From: TBeeee

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ignition Wiring

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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 09:28:39 PDT
From: "steve potratz"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Edlebrock carb

Marty Wrote:

My bother-in-law has a new edelbrock carb and intake on his '78 F150 302
(both were bought new for this aplication). We were trying to adjust the
mixture screws the other day and they were not acting right IMHO. It seemed
to run best with one out a couple turns and one in all the way! That
doesn't seem right to me.

Steve Wrote:

Hey Marty, I have only done this a couple of times, but I think what you
have going on is the set of fuel rods and or jets are impropperly sized for
the application/elevation. Carter/Edelbrock sell a kit(it is called a Zip
Kit) which has a multitude of jets and fuel rods to dial in the mixture.
Your carb mixture at idle is out of the range of the idle adustment screws.
By changing the rods and jets, you bring the mixture back in range. The
equivelent proceedure in a Holly is adjusting the float level and the
primary jets in the metering block.
My guess is you have the standard set up, which I have seen is usually too
rich. The chart provided in the zip kit instructions is very good and easy
to follow.

I hope this helps.

Steve

_______________________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 11:41:25 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ignition Wiring

I have never seen one offered in any obsolete catalog. My opinion would be
to find a good solid donor truck and go from there.
See if you can snag the whole wiring harness!

Good luck!

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu

>Also, Does anybody know what the price would be for a new wiring harness for
>a 66 F100
>
>Thanks
>Mike

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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 11:31:57 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - new 390 running, some problems---- Fixed

>It was a timing problem, I forgot to unplug the vaccum advance when I
>first timed it, so my timing was about 25 degrees off. everytings fine
>now, runs great, lots of power.

Yup, we all forget that once in a while I think.... glad it was so simple
to fix.

> Was I supposed to set the Idle mixture
>for breakin? I just put the carb that was on the 360 ( that was
>originally in the truck) on it, with no adjust ments, seems to work fine.

No, the idle itself should have been high, but not the mixture ... I was
able to do the same thing you did, take the working carb off the 360 and
just bolt it onto the new motor, it was close, needed a very fine amount of
tuning then just after breakin, but then I'm picky too ... Which reminds
me I need to hook up my kick-down rod ... keep forgettin to do that ...

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 09:39:27 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - R-12 to 134A & Exploding batteries

I work in a supermarket where we have quite a few commercial refrigeration
units. We are in the long process of converting to newer types of
refrigeration gasses.
One new gas that we have used is called R-409. The best part of it is that
it will work with older mineral based oils and it is slightly more efficient
than R-12. The Deli counter that we put it in immediately froze everything
:-) My refrigeration guy tells me that it not a transitional type of gas
like freeze-12 and that its not a cfc.
I dont think its available for automotive use, but a refrigeration
contractor may be able to put some in for you.
I hear freon is still being used in some 3rd world and former soviet
countries for cleaning jet engines..they blast 200-300 lbs of the stuff at
a time out of a firehose. makes you wonder how a few ounces of the stuff in
your truck can hurt that much..

I once had a battery on a forklift explode. Luckily the battery cover was
in place, but it was a loud BANG followed by a rush of acid all over the
machine and the floor.
Now i wear goggles whenever i am working on batteries, and i have a big box
of baking soda next to the battery charger.

Don Jones.
1970 f-250 4x4 ~Fordzilla~

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 14:34:57 -0400
From: frenz.6

osu.edu (Dale Frenz)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Be a Trojan Man, Think Safety.

I dont know about the rest of you, but Im emotionally attached to
my body parts; fingers, feet, head, et el. Just use some friggin' common
sense when working under vehicles. (I know its a rare commodity.) When I'm
working under a vehicle, #1 I use the jackstands. #2 I also leave the jack
raised up almost as high as the jack stands. #3 I also like to put an extra
stand under there if room permits OR a big block of something somewhere
that would gimme enough time to shimmy the hell outta there if the whole
thing went squash.
Auto parts stores are for buying your parts at. Their parking lots
are NOT open-air mechanics' bays. You wanna put your windshield wiper
blades on there, fine. Dont do something stupid like change your starter.
Even if your car wasnt on a jack, some other shadetree mechanic will come
blowing in there in his Duster and run over your legs sticking out.
Im not preaching, because I've caught myself doing stupid things
before too. You just gotta try and think everything through before you do
it.

A few things to remember: coolant aint cold; gas fumes like
cigarettes; spinning belts, blades, and parts are not your friend; and
heavy mobile objects like to mash things.

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 14:34:55 -0400
From: frenz.6

osu.edu (Dale Frenz)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wanted: 460 parts

I need some parts from an Econoline 460. Oil pan, alt. mounting bracket,
power steering pump bracket, etc. Ruby's 460 transplant is waiting on these
parts. I'd also be interested in any other 460 goodies you might have
around just takin' up space...

Thanks
Dale

"Ruby" the '79 F-150 Supercab 4x4 Wondertruck.

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 14:34:59 -0400
From: frenz.6

osu.edu (Dale Frenz)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - How to test an undercharged A/C???

I have an Eaton compressor in my '79. I assume it has an internal safety
switch like most that wont let it kick on when the charge is low. How would
I check to see if my compressor is good and also if my air conditioning
system works at all?

Dale

Ruby '79, I think my starter just took a dirt nap.

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 15:23:47 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: HFC-134a

A quote from the Vintage Air catalog I just received,

"...regardless of claims to the contrary, HFC-134a is a more efficient
refrigerant, heat transfer is better and exiting air temps from the
HFC-134a systems is often colder than CFC-12 systems.
On the other hand this efficiency can be a problem if you have a
pressure-valve controlled system. Such systems include older GM, Ford, and
Chrysler OE systems. Because the system is controlled by low side pressure
and HFC-134a produces lower low-side pressures at a given temp, these old
systems will regulate the refrigerant at CFC-12 levels and above optimal
low-side pressures for HFC-134a. Higher vent temps result and this may not
be acceptable at some slimate and humidity conditions."

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Audi 4000CS Quattro
IsuzuG

prodigy.net

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Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 17:02:15 -0400
From: "Brad Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Shorty & Daves

The address iss 588 Swedeland Road King of Prussia, PA 19406 (610) 275-4141.
Last time I was there they were open Saturday 8-5 and Sunday 9-5. Admission
fee was $2.00

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Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 17:04:52 -0400
From: "Brad Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - vin numbers

Okay, I give up
I went to the VIN decoder shown on our web page and it does not have the
right years.

Can someone tell me what years the following VIN's were from?

f10ye833581
f35ye845654

Thank you
Brad
Almost complete '65 4wd shorty

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 16:55:09 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:

In a message dated 08/03/1999 1:12:44 AM !!!First Boot!!!, JUMPINFORD

aol.com
writes:

Chevy before envy came along :)
>>
EEEK! Hey now Darrell, there are SOME things these people DON'T need to
know!!!!!! But hey, I DO own a Ford now....don't I? LOL Gettin that Chevy
woulda been the biggest mistake in my life hehehe

*~*~Lisa and Envy ~*~*
*~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 16:58:07 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:

In a message dated 08/03/1999 5:11:47 AM !!!First Boot!!!, JJJJJGRANT

aol.com
writes:

offend your truck, but you already have by calling it a piece of crap. stick
with a pre 80's ford in your search for a real truck >>
Hey now! In a way I agree w/ ya, but that's just cuz my baby is a '77 LOL
But ya gotta admit those '99 super dutys are BAD ASS! =)

*~*~Lisa~*~*
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 17:01:29 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Be a Trojan Man, Think Safety.

In a message dated 08/03/1999 6:32:34 PM !!!First Boot!!!, frenz.6

osu.edu
writes:

cigarettes; spinning belts, blades, and parts are not your friend; and
heavy mobile objects like to mash things.
>>
HaHaHaHaHaHa..........thanks for the advice! =) That's funny!
*~*~Lisa~*~*
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 17:10:08 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - hood ornaments

In a message dated 08/03/1999 3:26:34 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com writes:

cab. >>

Seriously....would people be low enough to steal them off my truck?? I mean
c'mon y'all....stealin' rims and stuff is "acceptable" but ya gotta be PRETTY
desperate To steal long horns hehehe

truck with longhorns on the hood>>

Tell me about it!!! My truck already gets "Oh sh*t" looks from those lil rice
rockets that are so common here and it doesn't even have
horns on it....YET! It's such a trip! Hmm....I already have a PA system, I am
considering getting big rig horns that make ya deaf *evil grin*
*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for girls!~*~*
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 17:58:51 EDT
From: TBeeee

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - vin numbers

In a message dated 8/3/99 4:18:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bjones

snip.net
writes:

>
> f10ye833581
> f35ye845654

Both VIN Nos. correspond to 1966 model year trucks; one is an F-100, the
other F-350. The Y in the vin is troubling, however; for that model year,
the engine code should be either an A, B or D (240, 300 or 352 cid). The E
in the VIN translates to these trucks both being built in the Mahwah, NJ
assembly plant.

I hope this helps.
Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 16:36:01 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C pistons in a 400M

>From: Brent Cole
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351C pistons in a 400M
>
>I remember reading this a while back about
>having to bush the connecting rod to accept
>the smaller wrist pin of the 351C piston. I would
>like to know more about the size, shape,
>material and fit of this bushing. Is it made or
>can you buy them off the shelf?

Yo Brent:

The bushings are made of a bronze or bronze-silicon alloy. It is basically the
same type of material used for cylinder head valve guides. The bushings come in
several "standard" outside and inside diameters. Usually, a machine shop buys
the bushings slightly oversized on the outside and undersized on the inside.
The bushings are an interference fit w/ your connecting rods (i.e., pressed in).
After the bushings are pressed into the rods, the machinist custom sizes the
inside diameter (where the wrist pin goes) for the correct fit. Unless you are
a competent machinist w/ access to the proper tools, this is not a DIY
procedure. Most any competent automotive engine machine shop can do this for
you, but some stock-type engine rebuilders shy away from this, as it is
considered a high-performance modification.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 16:38:48 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 into a 76 F250

>From: SHill48337

aol.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 into a 76 F250
>
>
> truck and work with the current transmission? >>
>First the only transmissions that it will bolt up with
>are those that had been connected to a 351C,
>351M, 429, 400, or 460.

Yo Burt:

Slight correction. The 351C uses the small block bell housing bolt pattern
(same as 302/351W). All the other engines you mentioned have the so-called big
block bell housing bolt pattern.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 17:21:45 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Automatic choke

>From: 3granch

ayrix.net
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Automatic choke
>
>My automatic choke does not work and I want to
>put it back to original working order. I have a
>stock 351M with a rebuilt 2V carb (what ever the
>standard issue was for this motor, 2150 rings a
>bell). The linkages on the passanger side flop
>in the breeze, the choke heater tube is rusted
>and fell off and the vacuum deal which activate
>the linkage by the choke heater tube(I think it the
>choke pulldown).

Yo Ronnie:

The original carb on your engine was the Motorcraft 2150 2V. Any decent rebuild
kit will have a decent diagram showing how the choke linkages should be
connected. I might be able to send you a fax w/ the diagram, if you have a fax
number.

According to my parts dept. sources, the part number for the heater tube is
D5AZ-9819-B and it is still available. If you can't get one from your local
Ford dealer, you can try the PartsVoice web site at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.partsvoice.com/
Alternatively, you could fabricate one from a short piece of 1/4" steel tubing
w/ a flared end.

The choke pull-down simply backs off the choke when you drive w/ the engine not
fully warmed up (or maybe in extreme cold weather). Carb rebuild kit
instructions give a spec for setting this at the choke plate.

>The tube which comes out of the manifold around
>to the back of the carb and attached to the carb
>with a rubber hose. One day I noticed air leaking
>from the whole which this tube goes into the
>manifold. I sealed it with Black RTV Silicone and
>the next thing I know it melted the rubber hose and
>the choke pulldown. I have a new pulldown but I
>do not know what I need to do fix this. Can I buy
>a new choke heater tube specifically made for
>this setup or do I have to get this universal part
>and make that work? Once I do that how do I
>proceed from there to get this choke to work?

The piece that the tubes go into attaches to the top of the manifold w/ two
bolts. It should have a coiled section of tubing between the two holes that the
other (external) tubes connect to. The coiled tubing is heated by the exhaust
gas in the intake manifold exhaust crossover passage. The part number for that
piece is D5AZ-9C869-A and it is also still available. If there are any leaks in
the coiled tubing, your carb will suck exhaust gas through the tube that
connects to the choke (if it doesn't have any leaks). The other tube should
attach via rubber hose to the bottom of the carb air horn. It simply supplies
fresh air from inside the air cleaner to be heated and passed through the
choke's bi-metallic thermostat. If that tube is getting too hot, it indicates
that you have a leak in the coiled tubing and pressurized exhaust gas is pushing
back up the tube and into the air horn. It might further indicate that the
vacuum passage inside the carb that normally sucks air through the choke is
plugged.

BTW, the bi-metallic thermostat housing should have an electrical spade
connector that attaches to the alternator to supply current to warm the
thermostat electrically, so it should be an "electric" choke.

>I also have an electic device on the drivers side
>of the carb which looks like, if activated, would
>hit the throttle linkage to increase RPM's. Its
>temorarily not hooked up. What is this for and
>can I check to see if its good? How can I adjust
>it to function properly?

That is a throttle position solenoid. You can test it by applying a +12V source
to it. If it moves, it works. These can be used in either of two ways: as an
anti-dieseling device or to bump up the idle for the AC. If you wire it so it
has constant +12V when the ignition is on, it will act as an anti-dieseling
solenoid so that when the engine is turned off, it closes the throttle plates
further than they are at idle. You could also wire it so that the +12V is
supplied only when the AC is on so it bumps up the idle to compensate for the AC
compressor load. You should be able to adjust the position of the solenoid w/ a
screw somewhere on its base where it attaches to the carb.

Good luck w/ your truck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 19:42:59 EDT
From: TWL1911

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - real trucks

Hey
well i would say that the good ol 6.9 navistar diesel was quite a addition to
the ford truck line. i have a friend that has about 1/2 million miles on
theres and its still running like a champ
Travis
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 20:07:07 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

In a message dated 8/3/99 6:32:25 AM Pacific Daylight Time, dpearson

ctc.edu
writes:

>

Yes, but I am a starving college student, so unless it keeps me from goin
somewhere, it can wait. :)

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 20:23:30 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:

In a message dated 8/3/99 2:00:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Bad4dFilly

aol.com writes:

>

You have seen the light child, now go, and spread the word.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 20:31:49 -0500
From: "Brett Yerks"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

Ok, so I bled and bled and bled tonight. Used 1 1/2 of those big bottles
worth of brake fluid. Got some bubbles, but the last at least 6 pushes of
the pedal got no bubbles on each bleeder. The pedal still goes to the
floor. Could it possibly be the proportioning valve? I replaced the master
cylinder because I had to pump the pedal to get any brakes. The first push
would be to the floor, second a little farther up and then the third push
would be normal. I get a little bit of brakes now when the pedal reaches
the floor, not enough to really stop me though. I may try replacing the
proporioning valve tomorrow unless maybe I got a bad master cylinder?

Brett
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/fbird

>>
>> In a message dated 8/2/99 9:51:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>> byerks

superford.org writes:
>>
>> > Did I miss anything?
>
>Bleed some more, and then bleed even more! It takes forever to get all
>the air out of the system.
>
>Jason

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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 20:49:43 -0500
From: "Larry Brown"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

I really doubt that the problem is the proportioning valve. The breaks work
by transmitting the force applied to the pedal to the wheels, if there is no
air and no leak in the system the pedal will get hard no matter what the
proportioning valve is doing.

I would look for a leak somewhere or check the master cylinder to see if its
pistons are sealing properly. If the seals are not holding in the M/C the
pedal will go to the floor

Good Luck,

Freewheelin' in LA.

Larry

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Brett Yerks
To:
Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 1999 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

> Ok, so I bled and bled and bled tonight. Used 1 1/2 of those big bottles
> worth of brake fluid. Got some bubbles, but the last at least 6 pushes of
> the pedal got no bubbles on each bleeder. The pedal still goes to the
> floor. Could it possibly be the proportioning valve? I replaced the
master
> cylinder because I had to pump the pedal to get any brakes. The first
push
> would be to the floor, second a little farther up and then the third push
> would be normal. I get a little bit of brakes now when the pedal reaches
> the floor, not enough to really stop me though. I may try replacing the
> proporioning valve tomorrow unless maybe I got a bad master cylinder?
>
> Brett
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/fbird
>
>
>
> >>
> >> In a message dated 8/2/99 9:51:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> >> byerks

superford.org writes:
> >>
> >> > Did I miss anything?
> >
> >Bleed some more, and then bleed even more! It takes forever to get all
> >the air out of the system.
> >
> >Jason
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 21:08:22 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pistons

>
> William,
> What brands of pistons can you get through AZ?
> Just curious, because I'm shopping for 300 pistons once I get the same
> answers you're looking for.

They sell Badger pistons primarily. I guess Badger is made by Manley,
because they come in the same vendor catalog. I've not seen another
vendor on our listings. I found out something else recently. Wolverine
cams are made by Melling. You can get the same cam in many cases
cheaper if you buy the Melling. (same part #)
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Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 21:12:29 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Genetic Mutations, or what they name GM cars after.

> Watch that nuclear humor...Actually 7 fingers could come in really handy...
> when working on my Ford Truck. Just think of the possibilities...

Cool in traffic too, I could use the middle one with impunity and still
eat my fries.
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 22:13:11 EDT
From: TBeeee

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

In a message dated 8/3/99 9:31:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
byerks

superford.org writes:

> The pedal still goes to the
> floor. Could it possibly be the proportioning valve?

I don't think so. The propertioning valve is designed to equalize the
operating pressures between the front and rear because disc brakes operate at
a different pressure than the standard drum brakes on the rear.

Do you have power brakes? If so I would check the adjustment of the
actuating rod between the master cylinder and the power booster. If you have
manual then you should check the free travel of the pedal. The other
possible issues are improperly adjusted rear-shoes and/or over-extension of
the calipers due to rotors or the pads being below acceptable minimum
thickness. The system is designed to work only if each link in the chain is
functioning. If everything else checks out it is quite possible that the
master cylinder itself is defective. You wouldn't be the first person that
received a defective rebuilt unit. I hope you find something here helpful.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 21:13:31 -0500
From: "Larry Brown"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

One other area you might want to check is the gasket in the M/C lid if it is
not seated correctly or if it is torn it will allow the pedal to sink to the
floor.

Larry

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Brown
To:
Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 1999 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - master cylinder

> I really doubt that the problem is the proportioning valve. The breaks
work
> by transmitting the force applied to the pedal to the wheels, if there is
no
> air and no leak in the system the pedal will get hard no matter what the
> proportioning valve is doing.
>
> I would look for a leak somewhere or check the master cylinder to see if
its
> pistons are sealing properly. If the seals are not holding in the M/C the
> pedal will go to the floor
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Freewheelin' in LA.
>
> Larry
>

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 22:35:44 -0500
From: "Phil / Debi"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - trans question

I just bought a 70 F100, it has a 300 six and three speed trans. I want to
change it over to a 4 speed. does anyone know if the driveshaft and bell
housing from the 3 speed will work with the 4 speed. I cant seem to get an
answer from anyone. id rather find out before hand, rather than after it is
all apart.

Phil Beattie
66 F100 390 C6
66 F100 parts truck
69 F250 parts truck
70 F100 300 3 speed
79 F250 4x4 400 C6 (for sale)

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 21:48:34 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - trans question

Phil / Debi wrote:
. does anyone know if the driveshaft and bell
> housing from the 3 speed will work with the 4 speed.

The bell housing will work, but I don't know about the driveshaft.

Jason
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 21:49:59 -0500
From: "Shane"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Changing the gearing

I just got done having my 9 inch Third Member, (AKA Center Section, AKA
Pumpkin) swaped because I stripped the splines off the yoke. I bought a
good used rear end from a place called "Automotive Recyclers".
The cost of the Third Member $133.13.

Then I took it to a Ford dealership and had them put it in and that cost
$54.00 for misc. parts Washers seals and a U-Joint (the old one was a
different size)
$12.60 for 7LBS. of grease
$148.00 for labor (4.9 hours

30.00 per hour)
+tax

222.43 Dealership
+133.13 Junk Yard
- ----------
=355.56 TOTAL

When you get it done or do it yourself, be sure that they\you check the axle
seals so that you don't have to pull the axle again to change them.

Shane

P.S. I just happened to have the bill in front of me.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Hogan, Tom
> If you have a 9 inch rear end the swap can be very easy. You can simply
> swap the center section with one from the "auto recyclers" that has the
> ratio you want. The catch it that you have to get a center section from a
> unit that has the same number of axel splines as your current rear end.
If
> you have a different type of rear end then the gear change requires
setting
> up the gears properly. Not overly difficult but possibly more than you
want
> to tackle. I have gotten a quote from one place for about $1000 to swap
> gears on a 9 inch. I've heard from others that it was less than $500.
Shop
> around and see.
>
> Tom H.
>
> > ----------
> > From: Spike188

aol.com[SMTP:Spike188

aol.com]
> > Reply To: 61-79-list....

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