 |
|
|
|
|
|
From: owner-61-79-list-digest  ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest) To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #263 Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Errors-To: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Precedence: bulk 61-79-list-digest Wednesday, July 28 1999 Volume 03 : Number 263 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: FTE 61-79 - Was Various--Now C6 vs. Cruise-O-Matic ID FTE 61-79 - Bent Pushrod FTE 61-79 - 428 block prices, was (Sonic checking FTE 61-79 - Floor Shifter ? 78 F-150 FTE 61-79 - air intake FTE 61-79 - Predator Carberator FTE 61-79 - air intake Re: FTE 61-79 - Bent Pushrod Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine won't crank..kinda long FTE 61-79 - What is a Cruise-O-Matic, was Various Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lights. Re: FTE 61-79 - What is a Cruise-O-Matic, was Various Re: FTE 61-79 - air intake Re: FTE 61-79 - What is a Cruise-O-Matic, was Various FTE 61-79 - '68 F-100 Turn Signals FTE 61-79 - While we're talking about charging systems FTE 61-79 - Engine won't crank..kinda long Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine won't crank..kinda long FTE 61-79 - Re: floor shifter Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine won't crank..kinda long FTE 61-79 - Re: anti-theft devices FTE 61-79 - Similiarties of FOMOCO automatics Re: FTE 61-79 - hot truck Re: FTE 61-79 - anti theft devices Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Help with Guages Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: vacuum advance (ignition) Re: FTE 61-79 - *compact* spare Re: FTE 61-79 - vacuum advance (ignition) Re: FTE 61-79 - vacuum advance (ignition) FTE 61-79 - torgue converter swaps FTE 61-79 - Won't crank Re: FTE 61-79 - anti theft devices RE: FTE 61-79 - anti theft devices Re: FTE 61-79 - anti theft devices FTE 61-79 - deal on a '77 F250 FTE 61-79 - Re: hot truck RE: FTE 61-79 - anti theft devices RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: hot truck Re: FTE 61-79 - anti theft devices Re: FTE 61-79 - *compact* spare ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 07:35:44 EDT From: TBeeee aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Was Various--Now C6 vs. Cruise-O-Matic ID In a message dated 7/27/99 11:35:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ses home.com writes: > Thanks, I will crawl under tomorrow. > Nice web page, BTW. Your welcome Steve and thanks for the compliment. I hope to have as much technical information on my page as I can. Each month I try to add at least one new item. Any suggestions for improvements are always welcome. Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:31:00 EDT From: GMontgo930 aol.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bent Pushrod Ive got a 79 Bronco with a 400M & 170k miles on the original motor. While I know it's approaching time for a rebuild, I recently bent the #2 intake pushrod to the point where it fell out along with the lifter. Needless to say I didn't go much further with no oil pressure. My Biggest question is what would cause an engine to bend a pushrod like that? Ive never seen it before and had many hi mileage engines. It wasn't driven hard, 70 MPH cruise on the freeway down towards Miami. If yall can shed some light on this it'd be great. I know how to fix the motor. George == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 07:37:28 -0500 From: Stu Varner Subject: FTE 61-79 - 428 block prices, was (Sonic checking Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 19:27:07 -0500 From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger) X-Accept-Language: en To: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE cylinder walls (Sonic Checking Sender: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com > > I've got a couple of 390 blocks that I'm going to > > have sonic checked this week. > > How much does it cost per block? All the conventional wisdom I heard on this > subject says to put the money towards a 428 block as .080 is too thin and > even if you don't go through the walls it will change the characteristics of > the block leading to over-heating, warpage, etc. etc. I hear that a > serviceable 428 block goes between $500-1000. That's much cheaper than all > that time, money and heart-ache you'll waste on a 390 block. I do know of a place where brand new 428 service blocks in FoMoCo boxes can be had for $1150 US dollars. The guy is in Homeworth, Ohio, telephone/fax 330.525.7291 I think CJ (Col. Jeff) may have done some business with them before. You might want to ask him. Later, Stu Nuke GM! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscco.com/stu == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 07:45:33 -0500 From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger) Subject: FTE 61-79 - Floor Shifter ? 78 F-150 > Early = 65-73 ... Cougars also used the same gear shift, I'm sure a number > of others with floor shifts did as well ... though I can't think of any off > hand...you can get them from aftermarket places in the 'stang rags too ... > I would worry that the shifter is going to be REALLY short, maybe something > with a longer reach is in order ? Also you're worried about cutting a > hole, I assume that means you've got a 4x2 ... maybe if you grabbed a 4x4 > floor section (they just bolt in) you wouldn't feel as bad getting a > shifter that needed a larger hole ... that or one from a manual tranny may > also be used, just have to check the heights... I've seen some of those original Ford T-handle shifters that were longer than the Mustang one. The earlier Aerostars I think had a long stick that was still a T-handle, and the Ranger/ Bronco II's also. I had a '73 Mustang shifter in my '67 F100, and it was a little short, another 2-3 inches would have helped a lot. It worked fine for over 10 years with a new set of bushings, you just had to reach down for it. The B&M Mega Shifter is neat too, if you want an aftermarket shifter. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 07:48:14 -0500 From: "John LaGrone" Subject: FTE 61-79 - air intake >>John, I have been wondering how effective this really is. Can I talk you into running a couple of tanks with the air cleaner getting its air from inside the engine compartment and seeing how your gas mileage changes? Nope. The way I drive (mostly in city traffic, very short trips), I doubt it would make much difference. When I got the truck the hose was gone, so it was breathing under hood air. It runs better in all respects the way it is now. I don't know whether it is the air temp or the ram action or my imagination. I never could find the right hose in a parts house. Although it is listed, no one ever had one and they wouldn't order it. Except one guy and he wanted $30. Ouch! I went to Lowe's and bought some aluminum foil type dryer vent hose. Fits perfect for under $4. I did try turning the air cleaner top over once, making the air cleaner an open element. It didn't help anything, but did increase the noise level. - -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com 1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:07:08 -0500 From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger) Subject: FTE 61-79 - Predator Carberator > A friend of mine recommended using a Predator carberator on my 78 351 M. > I > am looking for some input from people on these carberators? > > if I remember right, these carbs are nice because they have a variable > venturi that allows you to change/control the cfm. but they also have a > reputation for using tons of gas, they prettymuch just dump gas down the > intake, from what I hear. they are very simple carbs. About like taking a boat fuel tank and sticking the line down the intake and squeezing the primer bulb to keep it running. Well maybe I'm exagerrating a little...:-) They are made to be used like a double-pumper Holley, a light switch that controls fuel. I'd still take the Holley in that application, because of tune-ability issues. I heard of them being used on the street, but really, there are better street carbs. (a Quadrajet in my book is the best of all) And the 850 double-pumper is a better race carb. A shame because Predators look tough, especially a pair of them on an FE with pent-roof chrome valve covers. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:23:17 -0500 From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger) Subject: FTE 61-79 - air intake > Just look at people's quarter mile times and such ... they will drop if > several runs are made in quick succession without cooldown periods ... > during autocrossing they found that putting the headlights up on a miata > (old style) would reduce intake temps by 15deg! So then everyone decided > they needed that extra one or 2 horses and ran that way ... They likely run faster as the oil temp goes up, there's 20 hp to be had by pushing your oil to it's thinnest. I have friend with a rail that runs straight 10-20wt(according to temperature outside), and only makes 5 lbs of oil pressure at the line. He used to run for Chr*sler back in the '60's with Herb McCandless in Super Stock H*mi C*da's, and they figured out back then that oil pressure ate power. He experimented and got down to the least you can get away with, (Lingenfelter builds his engines now, so you know a whoops is expensive)and has done pretty good through the years for a hobbyist. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:20:51 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bent Pushrod >My Biggest question is what would cause an engine to bend a pushrod like >that? Ive never seen it before and had many hi mileage engines. It wasn't >driven hard, 70 MPH cruise on the freeway down towards Miami. If yall can >shed some light on this it'd be great. I know how to fix the motor. > Usually the only way to bend a pushrod is to cause something to slam into it hard, that could only be one of two things. a) the piston hit the valve or b) the valve floated momentarily. I think you would have heard either of these. And it may not sound like you were doing much (70mph on the freeway that is), but on some of these old trucks, with the wrong sized tires and a towing rear end, you can really get the rev's up there before you know it... Check your valve springs, make sure none of them are cracked/broken, that could cause a valve float also. A motor with this many miles on it may just be getting tired, so the springs could be getting weak ... I'm not an M-block guy like Dave R though, maybe he knows of something that's prone to happen in these ... Do you have a tach to see how many revs you are pulling ? Might want to wire one up briefly just to see ... Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:24:10 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine won't crank..kinda long >I turned the engine over by hand with a wrench, so engine is not locked >up,,,,,PLEASE help me, i need to get this fixed, its been 3 weeks >now,,,,,,and im getting frustrated,,,, > Someone else suggested the battery again, have you tried taking your old battery out and starting it with another known good battery ? Didn't you also say something about hitting the dash and having the connection come back ? have you checked the ignition switch and such to be sure its grounding and not just overloading itself when the solenoid engages ? Sounds like you've got a weird one there ... sorry its taken you so long to fix this. My dad's been fighting with his truck almost as long, so I know how frustrating it is (his was a short in the fuel pump relay! they just found it yesterday). Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:25:42 -0500 From: John Strauss Subject: FTE 61-79 - What is a Cruise-O-Matic, was Various >>>1) I have a '73 F-250 2wd, with 360, and cruise-o-matic (according to the >>>orig. owner's manual). Is this trans a C6? >>> >>No!!! Cruise-O-Matics are the forerunners of the C6, and I don't remember >>when they were introduced, but I thought it was prior to '73. > >While we are on this, how close is the FMX to the Cruise-o-matic? I've >been confused about this transmission for some time... >but what's new? > "Cruise-O-Matic" is a Ford term which is applied to all 3-speed automatics in sales literature. The first 3-speed auto Ford produced was the FMX so many transmission men refer to this one as the "true" Cruise-O-Matic. At that time, even Ford repair manuals referred to this trans as the Cruise-O-Matic, since it was the only 3-speed auto they made then. But later, when the C4 and C6 were brought out, these also were referred to as Cruise-O-Matic in sales literature, but not in service manuals AFAIK. Prior to the FMX, the only Ford automatic was a 2-speed and was called "Ford-O-Matic". As far as your '73 F-250 is concerned, I would bet it is a C6. _ _| ~~. John Strauss \, *_} jstrauss inetport.com \( Texas Fight! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:26:08 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lights. >I replaced my turn signal cam and now I have no brake lights and no >emergency flasher rear lights. The turn signals work fine and the front >emergency flasher lights work fine. This is on a '79 F-250 FWD with >cruise and tilt wheel. I have checked all the wires at the turn signal >switch and the only ones changed were the two on the turn signal cam. >Any suggestions? > Check the fuses, while you were messin around in there its possible you just momentarily hit something together that's not supposed to be ... also double check the plugs, make sure they are all really making contact now ... there should be one near the base of the column I think, its possible just a little tug dislodged something enough that it quit... Since the brake lights and hazards run on the same circuit (that's why they stop flashing with the brakes on right ?), its likely something simple happened while you were in the column. Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:39:40 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - What is a Cruise-O-Matic, was Various >"Cruise-O-Matic" is a Ford term which is applied to all 3-speed automatics >in sales literature. This I believe totally, funny how terms stick around whether they're really accurate or not in marketing .... > The first 3-speed auto Ford produced was the FMX Uhmmm...I thought the FMX didn't come out until the late 60's as sort of a small block version of the C6 ... there was a tranny before that that was not the C4 or C6, but don't know what the name of it was (Cruise-O-Matic ? :) ... just goin off the little bits and pieces I remember from prior discussions, the casing was changed from steel to aluminum when they went to the FMX, along with possibly gear choices and such ? Hmmm...maybe a hunt through the archives is in order here ... >As far as your '73 F-250 is concerned, I would bet it is a C6. > Yup, gotta go with ya on that one, a heavy duty ap. almost always got the C6. Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:41:12 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - air intake >> Just look at people's quarter mile times and such ... they will drop if >> several runs are made in quick succession without cooldown periods ... >> during autocrossing they found that putting the headlights up on a miata >> (old style) would reduce intake temps by 15deg! So then everyone decided >> they needed that extra one or 2 horses and ran that way ... > >They likely run faster as the oil temp goes up, there's 20 hp to be had >by pushing your oil to it's thinnest. I have friend with a rail that I said that totally wrong, I meant drop in a bad way, as in they run slower ... this is actually due to underhood temps heating the air before it gets into the motor, therefore increasing the volume and decreasing the O2 density ... that old English language comes back to bite me again. Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 09:44:49 EDT From: TBeeee aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - What is a Cruise-O-Matic, was Various In a message dated 7/28/99 9:27:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, jstrauss inetport.com writes: > "Cruise-O-Matic" is a Ford term which is applied to all 3-speed automatics > in sales literature. John: I would disagree that its become a generic term to refer to the 3-spd autos. I would agree that most sales lit. I have seen does just mention the Cruise-O-Matic and not the C4 or C6. This question first came up for me a few weeks ago in answering CJ's question on which tranny he had in his 1967. My literature mentions the Cruise-O-Matic and no mention of the C4 or C6. Yet the shop manual has a section for both the C4 and the HD Cruise-O-Matic. Also my master parts Illustration catalog has seperate pictures for each of these trannies (C4, C6 and Cruise-O-Matic). As a side note my Galaxie also has the Cruise-O-Matic from the factory. I don't want to start a tranny war but I would welcome any contrary point of view. Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 06:57:37 -0700 From: John Corbett Subject: FTE 61-79 - '68 F-100 Turn Signals Before I dismantle my entire steering column in an exploratory... I thought it might be better to ask someone else. Does a '68 F-100 have self-canceling turn-signals? Mine either don't work or weren't there to begin with. jc == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 09:52:29 -0400 From: David Henderson Subject: FTE 61-79 - While we're talking about charging systems OK... While we're talking about charging systems, I have had all sorts of trouble with the one in Brownie after putting in the new 300 (which, by the way is running quite nicely after some playing with the distributor. Had to advance it a few teeth to get enough advance...another story). I already had new battery cables (whenever I get a new truck, I always replace the belts, hoses, and cables so I KNOW the last time they were done), but I ended up replacing them all again (even the ground straps on the block). I have been through two solenoids, two voltage regulators (external), and one "brain box" (ignition). Now that we have gone through all of that, here is my question. I have also been through four different alternators from three different remanufacturers and I'm still having problems. I have unwrapped all of the wiring and inspected them, individually (yes, I am that anal). I know I'll get some responses about how close is my alternator to my headers, but I do not think this is the problem (3" clearance). What I'm experiencing is the alternator is fine (no idiot light coming on) at low RPMs, but as soon as I hit about 2200 RPMs, the idiot light comes on. A test at Advance Auto tells me that the diode pattern is bad (although good voltage and amps), but experience with their tester has also told me that if the machine doesn't know what's going on it says "bad diode pattern". Anyone have any idea what could be causing my problem? Anyone having trouble following my train of thought ;^)? Any and all responses will be greatly appreciated!! Dave H - -- _ _| ~~. David Henderson \, _} DHenders VT.Edu \( Gig 'em Aggies! '93 Currently at: Interdepartmental Genetics Program 2010 Litton Reaves Hall Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University Blacksburg, VA 24061 (540)231-4773 (540)231-5014 DHenders VT.Edu http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dasc.vt.edu/henderson/dhenderson.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 09:26:49 -0500 From: 3granch ayrix.net Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine won't crank..kinda long Ok, i wrote awhile ago about my engine that decided to run fine for about.....>> I bought my truck (same as yours except its a 78) five years agao and I had the same problem. I went through 4 alternators and three batteries. Finally I replaced the voltage regulator and the problem was solved. Well until two weeks ago. I had been running my stereo w/o the engine running. Its a Kenwood CD pumping MTX boxes, needless to say I beleive this puts a heavy strain on the charging system. I went through the routine again. New battery, starter selinoid and I was still having problems. A simple check with Autozones machine indicated a negative drain but it was not because of a bad alternator. We replaced the voltage regulator and no more problem. If you replace the voltage regulator, I was told to make sure and mount it to the fender before plugging it in. This way it is grounded and will not ruin the regulator. I hope this helps. Ronnie Rowton Braxton, MS 78 F250 4WD 351M NP435 76 F100 Supercab 2WD 360 C6 (will trade 360 or C6 for 351M/400) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 16:42:56 +0200 From: "Bill Brox" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine won't crank..kinda long Hi Ian. You need a voltmeter,,, then put the pins directly to the batteryposts, and have some turn the ign. key and try to start. If the voltage drop very much the battery is dead, need recharging, have a dead cell or something within the battery. A different battery will fix it, if you can find a friend with one just to try. If the voltage does not drop below 10-12 volts there is nothing wrong with the battery that can cause your trouble. Hm... I can't recall everything you have tried, not tried or whatever, but there shall be a thick ground wire from the engine to the frame and body. Not the ground wire from the engine to the battery. A wire often between one of the bolts that holds the bellhousing to the engine block, or to one of the head bolts, or similar. If this wire is missing, all kind of funny and not so funny trouble will come. Everything will seem weird. And often, the current seeks a way through the trottle cable and this can burn off. Try to look for this and let me know, there is a solution for everything. And you can't stay without a pickup for weeks,,, that is no point. So long, Bill > From: IanBoss69 aol.com > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com > Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine won't crank..kinda long > Date: 28. juli 1999 07:15 > > Ok, i wrote awhile ago about my engine that decided to run fine for about a > month after I bought the truck,,,,started fine one morning, went to the > store, came back out, wouldnt start,,,,,large tow truck tried to jump > it,,,didnt work,,,guy said it was probably wa the starter,,,,got a new > starter,,,,didnt start, lights and radio seemed to shut off every time i > tried to crank the engine, but then would resume their normal operation if i > worked on the truck for awhile or left it alone then came back out, kept > going out every time i tried to start it,,,,took the NEW starter back to have > it tested, i talked with the parts guy, said it probably was the > solenoid,,,,replaced it,,,,no change,,,,replace all the 4 gauge battery > cables, ground wire, batt to solenoid, and solenoid to starter,,,,no > change,,,,took a set of jumpers and hooked one end to the starter terminal > and touched the other to the pos(+) side of the battery,,,nothing,,,took a > piece of the old batt wire (4 gauge) and attached one end to one side of the > solenoid,,,,touched the other with the other end of the > cable,,,,nothing,,,,,,solenoid does click when i turn the key to start > position though, > I turned the engine over by hand with a wrench, so engine is not locked > up,,,,,PLEASE help me, i need to get this fixed, its been 3 weeks > now,,,,,,and im getting frustrated,,,, > > Ian > 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M > members.aol.com/ianboss69/page/home.htm > True Blue Ford Blue > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:08:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Dan Lee Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: floor shifter I put a 23" Lokar shifter on my C6 in my '53. The length is great, but I had to use a Dakota Digital decoder and LED's in my dash to tell me which gear I am using. Dan Lee '53 F100 351C-4V >>> I used a floor shifter out of an early Mustang to shift the C6 in my >> 1970 F100.>> _____________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 10:23:40 -0500 From: Larry Schmiedekamp Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine won't crank..kinda long Hm... I can't recall everything you have tried, not tried or whatever, but there shall be a thick ground wire from the engine to the frame and body. Not the ground wire from the engine to the battery. A wire often between one of the bolts that holds the bellhousing to the engine block, or to one of the head bolts, or similar. I had this setup and still had problems. Was told to put eyelet's (not the correct disc. but....) big enough for the bolt on the battery term. to go through and one for the selinod sp. mounting bolt. Bolt it on the neg. term. bolt and ran to the mounting bolt. No more problems with starter. A little extra grounding like this might help. At 04:42 PM 7/28/99 +0200, you wrote: >Hi Ian. > >You need a voltmeter,,, then put the pins directly to the batteryposts, and >have some turn the ign. key and try to start. If the voltage drop very much >the battery is dead, need recharging, have a dead cell or something within >the battery. A different battery will fix it, if you can find a friend with >one just to try. >If the voltage does not drop below 10-12 volts there is nothing wrong with >the battery that can cause your trouble. > >Hm... I can't recall everything you have tried, not tried or whatever, but >there shall be a thick ground wire from the engine to the frame and body. >Not the ground wire from the engine to the battery. A wire often between >one of the bolts that holds the bellhousing to the engine block, or to one >of the head bolts, or similar. > >If this wire is missing, all kind of funny and not so funny trouble will >come. Everything will seem weird. And often, the current seeks a way >through the trottle cable and this can burn off. > >Try to look for this and let me know, there is a solution for everything. >And you can't stay without a pickup for weeks,,, that is no point. > >So long, Bill > > >> From: IanBoss69 aol.com >> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com >> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine won't crank..kinda long >> Date: 28. juli 1999 07:15 >> >> Ok, i wrote awhile ago about my engine that decided to run fine for about >a >> month after I bought the truck,,,,started fine one morning, went to the >> store, came back out, wouldnt start,,,,,large tow truck tried to jump >> it,,,didnt work,,,guy said it was probably wa the starter,,,,got a new >> starter,,,,didnt start, lights and radio seemed to shut off every time i >> tried to crank the engine, but then would resume their normal operation >if i >> worked on the truck for awhile or left it alone then came back out, kept >> going out every time i tried to start it,,,,took the NEW starter back to >have >> it tested, i talked with the parts guy, said it probably was the >> solenoid,,,,replaced it,,,,no change,,,,replace all the 4 gauge battery >> cables, ground wire, batt to solenoid, and solenoid to starter,,,,no >> change,,,,took a set of jumpers and hooked one end to the starter >terminal >> and touched the other to the pos(+) side of the battery,,,nothing,,,took >a >> piece of the old batt wire (4 gauge) and attached one end to one side of >the >> solenoid,,,,touched the other with the other end of the >> cable,,,,nothing,,,,,,solenoid does click when i turn the key to start >> position though, >> I turned the engine over by hand with a wrench, so engine is not locked >> up,,,,,PLEASE help me, i need to get this fixed, its been 3 weeks >> now,,,,,,and im getting frustrated,,,, >> >> Ian >> 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M >> members.aol.com/ianboss69/page/home.htm >> True Blue Ford Blue >> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:26:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Dan Lee Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: anti-theft devices John, A better one to use with points and coil ignitions is a kill switch connected to the low side of the coil. When closed to ground this will prevent even a hot wire from working. If hidden well even a 'smart' thief will be deterred. Just be careful with the wiring an inadvertent short will kill the engine. Dan Lee '53 F100 351C-4V >A good, inexpensive anti-theft device that comes >highly recommended byour >local law enforcement agencies is a hidden kill >switch located underthe >dash somewhere. I had one that engaged the nuetral >safety switch whenturned >on. The car would not start in any gear. I don't know >that much abouthot >wiring an ignition. This setup may not help. Of >course a real theif who >wants your truck will get it. Most anti-theft devices >will discouragecasual >thieves and joy riders only, which is mostly who you >want to defeat.- -- John _____________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 11:36:50 -0400 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Similiarties of FOMOCO automatics Dennis writes: >>While we are on this, how close is the FMX to the Cruise-o-matic? I've been confused about this transmission for some time... but what's new? All the Ford 3 speed rear wheel drive autos have some commonality, but mostly in the overall layout and design. The C6 is by far the toughest of these and I understand some of the gearsets between the C6 and the E4OD are interchangeable, but I do not know this for sure, as I've never been inside the E4OD. The FMX's I've been in go all the way back to '56 and had a removeable bellhousing and cast iron case and a torque converter that was bolted together and could be repaired. I think they still made this transmission for some light duty applications through the mid 80's.(may have gone to aluminum) The C4 is basically a later version of the FMX with aluminum case and intergal bellhousing, but parts interchangeability is very limited and both are much lighter than the C6 and much less capable of carrying high torque. The C5 is a C4 with a lockup torque converter, or at least this is what I'm led to believe from my books. All the gearsets, clutches, bands bearings and such are common, but the case and the input shaft(and maybe some other small stuff) for the C5 are different. The cruise-o-matics were tougher than the FMX or the newer designed C4, but still light duty compared to the C6. To better understand them, try to find an old service manual from Ford or a good aftermarket that has a fully exploded layout of each of these and study it. It will enlighten you quite a bit. I absolutely have to have one of these before I open any transmission for repairs, and the Ford manuals have P/N's for each part in it, and that helps tremendously. Hope I haven't confused you too much Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 17:41:55 +0200 (MET DST) From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - hot truck > If you have air conditioning, be sure the condenser (the coils in front of I don't.. > the radiator) is clean. If these coils are full of bugs or other debris, you > are never going to get your truck to cool correctly. If you have some sort > of bug screen or non-stock air deflector, take that off, too. I was planning on putting some sort of bug screen on, taking that out and cleaning it is easier than poking them out of the radiator. > You checked your fan clutch? If it does not work correctly, it can actually I don';t have one, my fan is a very straight forward one. It always turns and doesn't flex. (well maybe it'll flex if you stick a crowbar in it ;-)) > create turbulence in the air flow pattern while you are going down the road. > Be sure you didn't put the fan on backwards if you have a flex and spacer. > (Yea, I did this once, too.) > Why would one want to buy a flexing fan anyway? Do they blow less air at highway speeds? I guess that would give you an extra .1 mpg. > I'm just about out of ideas I'm still convinced the the problem was my ignition vacuum advance.The engine was just generating too much heat for its rpms. Thanks for your advice though. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 08:46:41 -0700 From: John Kahrs Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - anti theft devices John Kahrs wrote: > > dash somewhere. I had one that engaged the nuetral safety switch > when turned > > on. The car would not start in any gear. I don't know that much > about hot > > It only takes one jumper wire to get it going though.. would be better > to > do something to the ignition (if it can be done w/o sacrifising > performance) and put the switch inside the frame under the vehicle. > Then > of course you have to make sure it does not corrode. I guess that's > with > any anti theft device, they're a pain to live with and you never know > if > you're going to work. How many people lost the key to their locking > nuts > (or what are they called, to prevent wheel/tire theft) > > > wiring an ignition. This setup may not help. Of course a real thief > who > > wants your truck will get it. Most anti-theft devices will > discourage casual > > thieves and joy riders only, which is mostly who you want to defeat. > > A real thief wouldn't mess with a 20 year old vehicle to begin with, > they'd only go for the more serious bucks.-- Hmm. Thieves won't touch my mercedes, but they go into my truck all the time. Right now I just chain the hood shut (work truck, so no beauty contests with this one), and before I do that, I take the wire from the coil to the distributor. It'll crank but it won't turn over. Probably not the best solution, but very simple and fast to take that wire with you. Course, if you or someone else forgets, you also crank meaninglessly just wondering why it won't start. I do think a kill switch under the dash, although convenient, is easily bypassed because a thief can work as long as he likes down there without being seen, and all that wiring is easily reached from underneath with no cover down there. I might try putting something in the door jamb right above the interior light switch. Something protected from the elements, but not an obvious place to look. jk - -- John Kahrs kahrs pixar.com 510.620.3486 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 18:25:59 -0700 From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Help with Guages >phone is 1-800-654-3247. The regulator is about the size of the horn relay >and is mounted on the back of the instrument cluster. It attaches with what >look like 9 volt battery connections. Be careful disconnecting them so as >not to damage the foil. Ahh the reason I did not replace it is because I always thought they were stuck to the foil. So you can actually take them off, sounds like I'll do that at some point, although the only thing I am using it for it the gas gauge, I got aftermarket gauges for the oil and water. My old one went bad, then the speedometer went bad. I was going to pull it out and then the whole panel just crumbled right in front of my eyes. I know plastic can turn bad overtime but this was just crazy, especially for something that's out of the sun. I suspect it got some chemical on it because the speedometer backing plate was still okay. But yeah as soon as you touched it it just crumbled, all that is left now is the flexible PCB with the gauges. I got a new panel and its regulator went bad too. I don't understand why they didn't use a solid state regulator for that. >The charge meter in 73-79 trucks is notorious for not working. For it to >work the internal resistance of the meter must be balanced to the resistance >of the shunt. Bas, I believe your meter is probably hooked up but doesn't >work due to incorrect shunt resistance. The archives have a detailed >discussion on this from a couple of years ago. Actually the ground cable on my truck runs directly from the engine, it seems that they changed that in the past. It makes more sense because the big currents go to and from the engine. Maybe I'll just install a volt meter, that's probably more useful. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 18:31:43 -0700 From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: vacuum advance (ignition) >Bas, You are correct, with more advance the motor will run warmer. One >thing I would like to point out is that at 60 mph the ported and manifold >vacuum values will be the same. When you changed the hoses did you also >change the initial timing value? With what you describe I would expect the No, I have always had the initial timing at 14 BTDC. This is what the tune up decal specifies. >engine to heat up at idle but then cool down at speed. Perhaps if you >advanced the initial timing value that is causing the overheating and then >at speed the initial plus the vacuum advance is keeping it hot. > >Good luck and let us know how it goes. I installed a new temperature switch (the old one seemed to be stuck, that's why I started fiddling with it in the first place), and a high-flow thermostat. So far it's been good. I also installed an aftermarket temp gauge with a SCALE so I'm not being fooled by the crappy gauge henry bought for us at the flea market. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 18:36:11 -0700 From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - *compact* spare >I always put a spare on the roof as well as used the rear spare hanger under >the bed. Two is better than one. It does make it fun getting it up and down >but beats being stranded somewhere. I'm sure the camper will make changing the tire very interesting too, especially if you have to rely on the scissor jack. I have a HiLift which is better but you really have to lift the body *high* before the wheels come off the ground. Does the scissor jack lift the body or the axle? The axle, right? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 07:09:45 -0700 From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - vacuum advance (ignition) >cap with a freshly re-done radiator and new heater core. it's seen 230 >degrees in traffic many times with no apparent ill effects(except a Well.. you can do a lot of things to a motor and not really notice the difference. It'll just impose more wear on the engine. It may be that the 230 degrees is not hard on the engine, as long as it is stable and the whole block has an even temperature. The thing that would bear me most concern is the oil temperature for both transmission and engine. I heard transmission oil loses its lubricating properties pretty fast after 230 degrees. Not sure about engine oil, but it is probably no better. If the engine operates at 230 already, and the transmission gets its cooling to the engine coolant, it must obviously be hotter. That is why I installed the biggest transmission cooler I could find, it is about a foot square and an inch thick. >time. Of couse, I flushed it out every year, even if I reused the >anti-freeze (dumped it every other year, strained it through a doubled >pillow case on the reuse years. I also kept the radiator clear of I would get new coolant more often, especially if you run a lean mixture. This anti-corrosion stuff will eventually stop working. >bugs(big isssue around here if you work nights. It looks like I was I need anti-bug facilities too, yeah.. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 09:15:57 -0700 From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - vacuum advance (ignition) At 09:36 AM 7/24/99 -0500, you wrote: >> That's what I figured too. Still it was at a constant 210 degrees or >> something, too hot. >210 is really about right. Good anti-freeze raises the boiling point >up close to 250-260 degrees. Boiling is what causes engine damage, you Actually I don't think it boiled, it did perculate a lot of water into the overflow - which then overflowed as well, but that's just heat expansion. The only time it really boiled over was when I was stupid enough to let my idiot "friend" drive it. I still start spitting fire when I think of that. After I got it back it was almost 2 gal low on coolant, and the pressure had cracked the heater core. I'm surprised it was still cooling at all. I have nothing against borrowing but how come there is always a bad experience linked to it.. >get steam in your casting voids, causing rapid expansion, also causing >the exposed surface temperature to rise exponentially. This >thermo-dynamic pressure will distort and crack the metal, or blow a >gasket. Depending on the engine design and condition of the coolant, Looks like I was "lucky" that time with my friend. Looks like I have to learn to say NO. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 12:09:34 -0500 From: "don" Subject: FTE 61-79 - torgue converter swaps can u swap torgue converters from a FMX or a C4 to a C6 transmission ? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 13:29:15 -0400 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Won't crank Ian.!.!.!.. Anytime (well almost anyway) you have the condition you describe, it is because the voltage is insufficient to carry the necessary cranking amps to turn the starter. You have a bad battery, or some very bad connections between it and the starter relay. Mechanical connection does not mean electrical connection. Be sure all connections are clean down to the bare metal. If you clean all connections and still have the condition you describe, then off to your local battery checker you go. Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 13:33:49 EDT From: SevnD2 aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - anti theft devices Another type of kill switch that could be hidden is one that is magnetically engaged or disengaged only. That way there is no obvious key or switch and can be placed where wires and other hardware is out of sight and hard to get to . I got this idea from a gun that uses a magnetic ring worn by the owner and can only be fired by the person wearing the ring . Another anti theft device is good during the cooler months , I take my australian shepherd with me . I have seen her react like those alarms that come on when you get close to the car and say stuff like move away or the alarm will sound . She isn't quite as nice about it though ! Here's one to think about . How about putting the switch on the seat so you have to slide it all the way back or forward to engage it , but only to start not to run and then you can put the seat where ever you like it . I know I'll hear about that one . LOL Anyway those are my thoughts on it . Rollie . == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 10:55:29 -0700 From: "Steve Schwartz" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - anti theft devices A friend of mine has microswitches mounted behind the heater/vent control levers. They have to be in a certain position to engage the starter...I LIKE this. Steve > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com > [mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of SevnD2 aol.com > Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 1999 10:34 AM > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com > Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - anti theft devices > > > Another type of kill switch that could be hidden is one that is > magnetically > engaged or disengaged only. That way there is no obvious key or > switch and > can be placed where wires and other hardware is out of sight and > hard to get > to . I got this idea from a gun that uses a magnetic ring worn by > the owner > and can only be fired by the person wearing the ring . > Another anti theft device is good during the cooler months , I take my > australian shepherd with me . I have seen her react like those > alarms that > come on when you get close to the car and say stuff like move away or the > alarm will sound . She isn't quite as nice about it though ! > Here's one to think about . How about putting the switch on the > seat so you > have to slide it all the way back or forward to engage it , but > only to start > not to run and then you can put the seat where ever you like it . > I know I'll > hear about that one . LOL > Anyway those are my thoughts on it . > Rollie . > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 10:49:21 -0700 From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - anti theft devices >> A real thief wouldn't mess with a 20 year old vehicle to begin with, >> they'd only go for the more serious bucks.-- >Hmm. Thieves won't touch my mercedes, but they go into my truck all the Yeah but who on earth wants to have a mercedes :) I know, lots of people. I drove one for awhile and decided I want more than just an A -> B means of transportation. >time. Right now I just chain the hood shut (work truck, so no beauty I can hardly believe it, why would they mess with your truck. Maybe because they think it's easy to mess with.. >contests with this one), and before I do that, I take the wire from the >coil to the distributor. It'll crank but it won't turn over. Probably It cranks but it doesn't turn over?? You mean it cranks but it doesnt fire. But doesn't it damage your coil to take that wire in and out so often? And doesn't it get damaged when you crank it with that wire off? Still better than having your truck stolen of course. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 10:52:39 -0700 From: Bruce Gray Subject: FTE 61-79 - deal on a '77 F250 Hi all, I'm new to this listserv so please forgive me if I'm asking about stuff that's been covered. I've found a '77 F250 with 100K miles (supposedly) for $1500. What should I and my mechanic be looking for when we check it out and is that a good price? I haven't actually seen the rig and the guy doesn't seem to know much about it aside from saying it has a V8. Are these fairly easy to work on? I'm just looking for something fairly reliable to haul a driftboat around this fall and winter. Any advice or tips would be much appreciated. Bruce == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 11:04:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Dan Lee Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: hot truck You are right Steve. I didn't think about it very hard when I made my post, but I was speaking from experience and overstated how much cooling would occur. In a perfect cooling system with a high volume of coolant flowing there will be a small temp difference between intake and outlet. In a system with some restriction and limited volume there will be some temp drop across the radiator. In all cases however the temp gradient will be uniform. Radiator shops use pyrometers to find 'hot' and 'cool' spot, where 'cool' spots are plugged areas. They put transmission coolers in the outlet side because of the lower temp coolant at that point. Burning fuel in a cylinder produces calories of heat energy. That heat raises the temp of the gases which increases the cylinder pressure. The increased pressure pushes the piston in its 'easy' direction. This process continues until the exhaust valve opens and the hot gas is discharged. During this time some of the calories are absorbed by the cylinder wall and passed into the coolant flowing by. Since one calorie raises one cubic centimeter of water one degree Celsius, many calories per second will raise many cc's per second by some amount. The temperature rise will be determined by the rate the heat is being produced and the coolant flow. In a cooling system at equilibrium the heat rise will be equal to the heat drop in the radiator. Both of these numbers depend on the volume of coolant flowing and engine conditions. In a system that is not in equilibrium (overheating)the radiator will not be able to cool the fluid enough. This may be due to reduced flow or just more calories coming in than it can handle. If there is a restriction is somewhere other than the radiator the radiator will have a uniform gradient and a large difference across it. If the restriction is in the radiator then there will be hot and cool spots in it. If the cooling system cannot handle the calories produced by the engine, but has high flow then the there will be a small drop across the radiator but at a high temp. Advanced timing or low grade fuel or both or high engine friction (low oil) could produce the last condition. I don't think this is the ultimate explanation, but it is an attempt. Dan Lee '53 F100 351C-4V >I'm not saying that there should be NO difference in >temp between inletand >outlet, just that cooling is increased as the >difference gets smaller. This >happens with higher flow. The thermostat does reduce >flow, but withinthe >cooling system's design parameters. On some engines >it also providesenough >backpressure to keep the pump from cavitating. Its >REAL purpose is to >provide quick warmup and temperature regulation, to >keep the engine >operating at its design temperature. _____________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 11:16:10 -0700 From: Bas van der Veer Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - anti theft devices At 10:55 AM 7/28/99 -0700, you wrote: >A friend of mine has microswitches mounted behind the heater/vent control >levers. They have to be in a certain position to engage the starter...I >LIKE this. Wow that is a VERY good idea. That makes me think, you could even make something where you have to open the window also. Then you don't even need a key. I have left my key on the transfer case skid plate or on a muffler, that's usually a good hiding place. I was also thinking, you can have a piece of your starter wire hooked up with special quick disconnect socket, so you can easily take it. Then you don't have to worry about damaging something, unlike taking the coil-dist wire. Generally I think the "take a small but essential piece of your truck" approach would work a bit better as they can always bypass whatever switch you build in. Even the heater switch, they won't find it but a simple jumper cable from the battery to the solenoid is all it takes to bypass any starter switch. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 11:28:54 -0700 From: "Steve Schwartz" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: hot truck Thanks, Dan. Your (new) explanation works for me... Best, Steve > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com > [mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Dan Lee > Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 1999 11:05 AM > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com > Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: hot truck > > > You are right Steve. I didn't think about it very hard > when I made my post, but I was speaking from > experience and overstated how much cooling would > occur. In a perfect cooling system with a high volume > I don't think this is the ultimate explanation, but it > is an attempt. > > Dan Lee > '53 F100 > 351C-4V > >I'm not saying that there should be NO difference in > >temp between inletand > >outlet, just that cooling is increased as the > >difference gets smaller. This > >happens with higher flow. The thermostat does reduce > >flow, but withinthe > >cooling system's design parameters. On some engines > >it also providesenough > >backpressure to keep the pump from cavitating. Its > >REAL purpose is to > >provide quick warmup and temperature regulation, to > >keep the engine > >operating at its design temperature. > > > _____________________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 14:03:00 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - anti theft devices > Here's one to think about . How about putting the switch on the seat so you >have to slide it all the way back or forward to engage it , but only to start >not to run and then you can put the seat where ever you like it . I know I'll >hear about that one . LOL Here's something about that one ... some of us always have the seat all the way back and CAN NOT fit in with the seat all the way forwards! But its so hot right now that I'm leavin the windows down and everything, also being summer there aren't too many kids around (an advantage of working at a school :). >A friend of mine has microswitches mounted behind the heater/vent control >levers. They have to be in a certain position to engage the starter...I >LIKE this. I had a friend who had that too ... only problem was it wasn't intentional! The heater controls on his B*ick shorted somewhere so the car would only start if you held the slider all the way into the defrost position ... you had to hold it too (momentary style switch) while you hit the key ... I guess he got pretty good at it after drivin it for a year! Some days he just left the keys in it since no one could start it easily ... and who.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session
cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.
Advertising -
Terms of Use - Privacy Policy -
Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company. 
|