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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #261
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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, July 27 1999 Volume 03 : Number 261



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Steering adj. and Cam berrings(sp?)
FTE 61-79 - Motor Choices
FTE 61-79 - Hot truck
FTE 61-79 - '68 F-100 Project
FTE 61-79 - Hot truck
Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Choices
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C
RE: FTE 61-79 - Motor Choices
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hot truck
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: steering column blues
Re: FTE 61-79 - '68 F-100 Project
FTE 61-79 - FE cylinder walls (Sonic Checking
FTE 61-79 - dash lights
Re: FTE 61-79 - dash lights
FTE 61-79 - RE: 390 Cams
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C
Re: FTE 61-79 - FW: RE: VERY LARGE Pickup-Style Body
FTE 61-79 - help
FTE 61-79 - RE: Ford Red Book
FTE 61-79 - Re: Steering Column
Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Choices
FTE 61-79 - Re: late model factory rims
Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Choices
FTE 61-79 - Re: edelbrock carbs
FTE 61-79 - Floor Shifter ? 78 F-150
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C
Re: FTE 61-79 - Floor Shifter ? 78 F-150
FTE 61-79 - Predator Carberator
Re: FTE 61-79 - Floor Shifter ? 78 F-150
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Ford Red Book
FTE 61-79 - 1978 and JC Whitney Overhead speakers
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1978 and JC Whitney Overhead speakers
FTE 61-79 - 390 Cylinder walls
Re: FTE 61-79 - Floor Shifter ? 78 F-150
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1978 and JC Whitney Overhead speakers
FTE 61-79 - RE: Edelbrock carbs.
FTE 61-79 - overheating 351C

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 17:12:13 -0400
From: "Mike & Carrie Elmer"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering adj. and Cam berrings(sp?)

Hello again all,Well to those who said cam berrings you're right,I know it
would'ev been eaiser to do them w/the truck was in the shop and apart but
now it's not.How long can I run it with'em bad and is it somthing that
need's done right away?My next question is,I know their is an adj.on the
steering box to take some of the play out of the wheel,how much should the
adjuster be adjusted,till it touches or further.I haven't messed w/this
since I've had the truck and all front end parts are going to be R and R'd
soon.Again Thanks Up front.Mike

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 16:11:52 -0600
From: "Ryan Minihan"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Motor Choices

Hi Guys,
I hope this doesn't start a flame war, but here goes. I have a 68 F-250 4x4
Heavy Duty. The truck weighs in at 5900 lbs. I have 4.11 gears, either a
T18 or an NP435 4 speed transmission, and a 360 that is starting to get a
little tired. I am contemplating a new engine for the beast. My options so
far seem to be, rebuild the 360 into a 390 or bigger, or put in a 460.
Mileage isn't really an issue as I get 9mpg as it is on the highway with a
tailwind downhill. ;-) I have just purchased an edelbrock performer intake,
and edelbrock 750 cfm carb that I installed on the 360. That did wake it up
some, but it is not yet what I am looking for. I only mention this to point
out that if possible I would like to reuse the edelbrock equipment. This of
course would preclude the use of the 460 if I used the old intake. Anyway,
I am looking for suggestions. I don't do any towing with this truck. I
rarely haul heavy loads, it is mostly my daily driver. Later, I want to
make it a serious 4x4 and drive something else for a daily driver. I'm open
to other motor suggestions than the ones I listed, but please back up your
statement with a good reason. ;-)

Thanks in advance,

Ryan Minihan
ryan qwk.net

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 18:18:59 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hot truck

Someone writes: (and yes I forgot who already) >>>The bottom of the radiator
got pretty hot too, to the extend that I could
>only hold my hand on it for a few seconds before the pain became master.
>So apparently the coolant is flowing. But maybe not enough.

This alone tells me that the radiator isn't radiating. The bottom of the
radiator should be cool enough to touch without getting "fried". Maybe not cool
enough to hold your hand on it for some time, but by the same token, it
shouldn't be as hot as I think you are indicating. You did say that you had a
"new" radiator, I believe. Is it new (as in, never used) or is it new to you
and may be corroded internally???? I don't think your radiator is doing its
job. I would think there should be at least 25 to 35 degrees difference in the
engine discharge and the engine intake of the coolant, and possibly more.
Depending of course on the temp outside and the amount of air you are pulling
through, but I'm talking about 90 degree weather and a good fan and radiator.

JMHO.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 15:24:09 -0700
From: John Corbett
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '68 F-100 Project

68 F-100 4X4

I bought an incredibly straight 68 F-100 with a Lincoln 429 and a 4x4. I
want to trash the 4 speed and add air. I can purchase another good looking
68 F-100 with factory air and a 390 automatic. My question is this; would
it be more of a hassle to change the transmissions in the two trucks than
what it's worth, or should I just by a used C-7 somewhere and stick that
in? The second F-100 has some better interior and trim pieces, and the air
too. I just don't know how hard it would be to change the automatic to a 4
speed for resale later. Also is the stock automatic behind the 390 tough
enough to handle the 429?...will it even bolt up? Any and all comments
greatly appreciated. jc


Computers & Peripherals at or Below Superstore Prices
Top Brand Names / Incredible Business Opportunity
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 18:33:37 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hot truck

Steve writes: >>A good radiator will have high flow, and will not change
temperature very
much from inlet to outlet.

Say What???????? I'm just an old country boy and I always thought I was a
fairly good "shade tree" mechanic, but this is contradictory to my way of
thinking. T'stats restrict flow (even when open, they are smaller than the neck
wothout one), so you want some very distinct differences in radiator inlet and
exit temps, or at least I do.

Not to start a war or anything, nor do I even suggest to be educated in this
realm, but I'm trying to apply "good old common horse sense" to this one.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.





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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 16:03:58 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Choices

My personal bias would be to stick with the FE block. Though having the
4-spd makes mating a 460 to the tranny a bit easier, it would certainly be
much easier to stick with the FE. Personally I think the FE's are a much
stronger (mechanically) engine than a 460 (385 series). Case in point the
shaft mounted rocker arms are much more stable than the style used on a 460,
and the block overall is beefier. There are plenty of aftermarket high
performance parts available for the FE engines though 460 parts are a bit
easier to find.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Minihan
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, July 26, 1999 3:16 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Motor Choices


>Hi Guys,
>I hope this doesn't start a flame war, but here goes. I have a 68 F-250
4x4
>Heavy Duty. The truck weighs in at 5900 lbs. I have 4.11 gears, either a
>T18 or an NP435 4 speed transmission, and a 360 that is starting to get a
>little tired. I am contemplating a new engine for the beast. My options
so
>far seem to be, rebuild the 360 into a 390 or bigger, or put in a 460.
>Mileage isn't really an issue as I get 9mpg as it is on the highway with a
>tailwind downhill. ;-) I have just purchased an edelbrock performer
intake,
>and edelbrock 750 cfm carb that I installed on the 360. That did wake it
up
>some, but it is not yet what I am looking for. I only mention this to
point
>out that if possible I would like to reuse the edelbrock equipment. This
of
>course would preclude the use of the 460 if I used the old intake. Anyway,
>I am looking for suggestions. I don't do any towing with this truck. I
>rarely haul heavy loads, it is mostly my daily driver. Later, I want to
>make it a serious 4x4 and drive something else for a daily driver. I'm
open
>to other motor suggestions than the ones I listed, but please back up your
>statement with a good reason. ;-)
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Ryan Minihan
>ryan qwk.net
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 16:05:59 -0700
From: "Steve Schwartz"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C

Bas,

Read it again carefully:

OUTLET RESTRICTOR if specified (to prevent pump cavitation, which LOWERS
flow).

I didn't *say* thermostat, but actually some engines rely on the thermostat
as an outlet restrictor for the same purpose - and they WILL overheat if you
remove it, but not for any obvious reason. I doubt even Ford's engineers
forsaw the need for a restrictor; it was probably a band-aid, arrived at
empirically.

I think some small block Fords need a restrictor, as was pointed out by
someone at the beginning of this thread (351C ?).

Engine efficiency relies on proper operating temperature, both because of
mechanical clearances, as well as thermodynamics.

I am never surprised that otherwise intelligent and savvy mechanics get the
radiator temperature thing wrong. It is among the most counter-intuitive
concepts involving our beloved machines. Temperature is something you can
measure easily, but heat is a step removed from our senses.

Buenos Tacos from Southernmost California,
Steve


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Bas van der Veer
> Sent: Monday, July 26, 1999 11:38 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C
>
>
> >The reason more heat is lost when there is better flow is that 1) more
> >heated water passes through the radiator, and 2) the difference
> in temp of
> >the water and the air is higher on average. Thermodynamics
> states that the
> >rate of heat flow from one medium to another is proportional to the
> >difference in temperature.
>
> Thanks, finally somebody who understood his high school physics
> :) I had to
> fight numerous people who claimed a thermostat helped against overheating.
> It only restricts the flow to make sure the engine does not stay too cold.
>
> >properly installed (internal support coils in place), outlet
> restrictor if
> >specified (to prevent pump cavitation, which LOWERS flow), proper
> >thermostat, belts properly tensioned (so the water pump turns),
> etc. Water
>
> So you're saying a thermostat helps against pump cavitation? I would not
> think this is the case but then again I'm not a ford design
> engineer. Which
> engines have these restrictors, and what do they look like?
>
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>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 16:14:28 -0700
From: "Steve Schwartz"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Motor Choices

To expand on this thread, I have a couple of questions of my own:

1) I have a '73 F-250 2wd, with 360, and cruise-o-matic (according to the
orig. owner's manual). Is this trans a C6?

2) Is the bellhousing bolt pattern compatible with newer trannies, i.e.,
E4OD? If not, is there an adapter available?

3) If I swap to a later 460/E4OD, are there headers that will fit my truck?

I plan to keep this truck for a long time, and while I like the FE, I would
like to have the newer OD trans, using a Baumann controller. I would
probably look for a 390, if the trans would mate with it.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Radoje Spasojevic
> Sent: Monday, July 26, 1999 4:04 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Choices
>
>
> My personal bias would be to stick with the FE block. Though having the
> 4-spd makes mating a 460 to the tranny a bit easier, it would certainly be
> much easier to stick with the FE. Personally I think the FE's are a much
> stronger (mechanically) engine than a 460 (385 series). Case in point the
> shaft mounted rocker arms are much more stable than the style
> used on a 460,
> and the block overall is beefier. There are plenty of aftermarket high
> performance parts available for the FE engines though 460 parts are a bit
> easier to find.
>
> Rade

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 01:48:09 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hot truck

> Someone writes: (and yes I forgot who already) >>>The bottom of the radiator
> got pretty hot too, to the extend that I could
> >only hold my hand on it for a few seconds before the pain became master.
> >So apparently the coolant is flowing. But maybe not enough.
> This alone tells me that the radiator isn't radiating. The bottom of the

Oomph, don't say that! It was 100 degrees already and it felt like it was
120 anywhere near the truck. I think because my extreme advance, the engine
was just producing way too much heat. The hood was so hot I could barely
close it with my bear hands, seriously. The top of the radiator was
hotter than the bottom.

> enough to hold your hand on it for some time, but by the same token, it
> shouldn't be as hot as I think you are indicating. You did say that you had a
> "new" radiator, I believe. Is it new (as in, never used) or is it new to you

Brand new from the warehouse, never used, 4 core radiator. And yes I have
a fan shroud.

> and may be corroded internally???? I don't think your radiator is doing its
> job. I would think there should be at least 25 to 35 degrees difference in the
> engine discharge and the engine intake of the coolant, and possibly more.
> Depending of course on the temp outside and the amount of air you are pulling
> through, but I'm talking about 90 degree weather and a good fan and radiator.

I couldn't believe it either, this is supposed to have 30% better cooling
than the stock radiator, probably 50% more than the aged one I had
before. And still it got hot, even in conditions that did not used to
give me any problems. First I thought something had come loose and
plugged the radiator, but when I saw the inside of my old one, you could
tell it had been around for awhile, but otherwise it looked fine. It just
HAD to be this timing advance, because that's what I had recently changed
and it was also something that was not hooked up the way it's supposed to
be.

So far it's not been hot but then I have not been driving in extremely
hot weather. We will see if my theories are right. If they are not,
something must be broken but I wouldn't know what.

Whether the bottom of the radiator is hot or not is just a partial test.
If the water flow is insufficient for one reason or the other, the bottom
will be cold but the engine is hot. If the heat radiation is bad but the
flow is OK the bottom will be hot. That's what you're saying, that's what
my initial thought was, and it is why I bought this new radiator. But
then the problem persisted and I thought of the timing issue.
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 19:54:49 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: steering column blues

In a message dated 7/26/99 9:56:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Steer1098 aol.com writes:

>

Just about the whole thing, the wriring harness is shot now, and the chunk of
metal that the signal cam bolts to is all ground away from the PO (aka moron,
aka idiot) not assembling it right. So right now Im on the hunt in the
wreckin yards. I also got a rebuild quote for 175 from a local guy. Just
gonna hafta wait and see.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 20:01:56 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '68 F-100 Project

In a message dated 7/26/99 3:28:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time, jdm cdsnet.net
writes:


enough to handle the 429?...will it even bolt up? >>

Wont happen, they have entirely different bolt patterns. You will need an
auto from a 351m or 400 with a T-case to swap it over to Auto.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 19:27:07 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE cylinder walls (Sonic Checking

> > I've got a couple of 390 blocks that I'm going to
> > have sonic checked this week.
>
> How much does it cost per block? All the conventional wisdom I heard on this
> subject says to put the money towards a 428 block as .080 is too thin and
> even if you don't go through the walls it will change the characteristics of
> the block leading to over-heating, warpage, etc. etc. I hear that a
> serviceable 428 block goes between $500-1000. That's much cheaper than all
> that time, money and heart-ache you'll waste on a 390 block.

It depends on the block. Some will some wont. It all depends on how
much core shift the block suffered during casting. The FT and mid-70's
FE blocks with the mirror-image 105 are supposed to all be capable of
it. I have one and it has the extra rib in the main webbing it's
supposed to have, so I figure it will go .080 over. I kind of have in
mind to build a 406 tri-power out of it someday, if I can find a
manifold. There was a guy in Springfield, MO back when I was a kid, who
had the plainest white w/red interior '62 Galaxie 2dr sedan I've ever
seen, but it had a 406 tri-power in it with a three-speed in it if you
can believe that. Sounded tough, but it was a heavy car. It would roll
out over 70 mph though. One of those cars you never forget.
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 20:37:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: rich may
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dash lights

I was wondering if there is interior backlighting on the guages in a
76' F-250. I know this is a stupid question but I purchased a truck and
it doesn't have any.

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 03:03:04 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - dash lights

> I was wondering if there is interior backlighting on the guages in a
> 76' F-250. I know this is a stupid question but I purchased a truck and
> it doesn't have any.

My 78 bronco has them. I don';t think the 76 is any different. They turn
on with the outside lights and you can dim them (all the way to off) by
turning the headlight switch. Try turning the knob to the left and see if
they come on. If you turn all the way the courtesy lights come on. If they
don't come on and you don't have A/C you can probably reach under the dash
and touch the back of the instrument panel. There are two backlights,
they are located at 1/3 and 2/3 of the panel left-right, and about 1/3 to
1/2 from the bottom. They simply plug into the back and you can get them
out by turning them a quarter turn.

If you do have A/C you probably have to take the whole instrument panel
out, let me know if this is the case and you can't figure it out how to
do it.. (even with the manual it took me several hours the first time,
you kind of have to know how everything is mounted)




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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 20:06:09 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 390 Cams

> Bill, Thanks for the post about the cam numbers. I'm in the planning
> stages of a rebuild now and those will be helpful. One question, Where did
> you get the output numbers from?
>
> Thanks
> Tom H.

The output numbers came from a simulation progran called Desktop Dyno
2.57. It is a good program, but requires experimenting to get the mix
of parts right. I used some old "real dyno" figures from some old
magazines, and I tuned my pulls until I came to theirs, very closely.
Short duration cams seem to show more torque than they really would
though, I think it dials in a combination that wouldn't run at that
level without detonation.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 18:46:00 PDT
From: "George Litton"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C

Bas,
Sometimes too much flow DOES hurt. If the water is flowing too fast, it
will not absorb the heat out of the cast iron. All it takes is a look at
the hi-perf catalogs and see the flow restrictors for sale. They help
optimize flow speed to maintain desired temp.

As for which engines get the restrictor stock, the 351C is the only one that
I know of.


>From: Bas van der Veer
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C
>Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 11:37:58 -0700
>
> >The reason more heat is lost when there is better flow is that 1) more
> >heated water passes through the radiator, and 2) the difference in temp
>of
> >the water and the air is higher on average. Thermodynamics states that
>the
> >rate of heat flow from one medium to another is proportional to the
> >difference in temperature.
>
>Thanks, finally somebody who understood his high school physics :) I had to
>fight numerous people who claimed a thermostat helped against overheating.
>It only restricts the flow to make sure the engine does not stay too cold.
>
> >properly installed (internal support coils in place), outlet restrictor
>if
> >specified (to prevent pump cavitation, which LOWERS flow), proper
> >thermostat, belts properly tensioned (so the water pump turns), etc.
>Water
>
>So you're saying a thermostat helps against pump cavitation? I would not
>think this is the case but then again I'm not a ford design engineer. Which
>engines have these restrictors, and what do they look like?
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


_______________________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 22:12:40 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FW: RE: VERY LARGE Pickup-Style Body

In a message dated 7/26/99 9:10:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com writes:

> I wonder if you
> > would need a special license to drive it.
you shouldnt need a special license to drive anything if its under your
name...

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
members.aol.com/ianboss69/page/home.htm
True Blue Ford Blue
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 22:14:41 EDT
From: LHopk99567 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - help

I thought I was on the 61-79 list, but now I'm getting this list, but only by
downloading it to my word processor.
can you help me get to you on the web?
Dick Hopkins lhopk99567 aol.com
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 20:22:25 -0500
From: "Brett L. Habben"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Ford Red Book

Darrell,
Here's the Amzon link to The Ford Red Book.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0879387890/qid=933036957/sr=1-2/00
2-0606151-2168031
Ford Pickup Red Book 1946-77 (Motorbooks
International Red Book)
by Peter C. Sessler

THIS TITLE IS CURRENTLY NOT AVAILABLE. The publisher
is out of stock. If you would like to
purchase this title, we recommend that you
occasionally check this page to see if it's been reprinted.

Paperback - 152 pages (July 1993)
Motorbooks International; ISBN: 0879387890 ;
Dimensions (in inches): 0.38 x 7.47 x 4.52
Amazon.com Sales Rank: 135,049

Looks like you may have to beat the bushes to find a copy of it. I only
have a copy of the Standard Catalog of Light Trucks and this is much more
general, 800 pages covering all domestic trucks up to 1-ton 1896-1986:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0873412389/qid%3D933037086/002-060
6151-2168031
Brett
Super75cab

>Thank you very much. Know where I can find this "Ford Red Book"?
>Darrell Duggan
>74 F-350 "Tweety"

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 20:59:15 -0500
From: "Brett L. Habben"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Steering Column

Darrell,
I just went through the exact same routine last month. I knew by the
"Kaleidoscope-of-Colors-Column" the PO had been in there. Well, when the
steering shaft/wheel jumped up 2 inches and you could spin it like a top
it was time for a rebuild. Total junk. $75 '73 Non-PS (2" too long)
complete column, "All or Nothing" was all I could find. Kluged the two
into one.
A couple of quick notes:
1.) Bearings interchange with a whole pile of other Fords. I also had to
cut the lower bearing holder off the '73 and kluge it on my '75 column
cuz mine was shot, letting the shaft jump around.
2.) Make d*mn sure the rag joint is good, the column is lined up, and
there isn't too much room for the shaft to jump up, clear the rag joint
safety pins, and spin like a top. Surprise! Dirty shorts!
3.) If you can't find a harness, solder, new wire, and industrial heat
shrink tubing can fix a multitude of sins.
4.) The auto tranny shift detente cam wears out making gear selection
about as precise as stirring pudding with a limp noodle. I bet the cam
interchanges with a pile of other Fords also.
Let me know what yards up your way want for a column...
Brett
Super75cab

>If I can find one cheap, I will just buy that. If not, Im going to a
>wreckin yard, find a column, and build it myself. Any info you all have

>would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
>Darrell Duggan
>74 F-350 "Tweety"

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 22:30:45 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Choices

If you only use it as a daily driver then i don't see why you need to even
upgrade it to a 390, if you did a rebuild on the 360 with some mild
performance modifications, like head polishing, .030 overbore, 3-angle valve
job, the edelbrock intake, headers and dual exhaust, it would suit your need
well, even for most offroading you shouldn't need enough power to warrent a
built 460, it'd probably add a ton of weight to the front end too, gas
mileage should increase even with those mods if its tuned well,

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
members.aol.com/ianboss69/page/home.htm
True Blue Ford Blue
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 19:48:17 PDT
From: "MARTY COLMAN"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: late model factory rims

 
Mark wrote:
>I have never seen a 70's 4WD 1/2 ton withlater
>factory wheels on it.


I don't know much about backspacing, but I do know of a '79 F150 4x4 that
has the early '80's spoked wheels with beauty rings, that you are
discussing. I don't know what he had to do to get it to work, maybe he has
a spacer or something, I just have seen it around town a few times.

Marty Colman


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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 20:18:19 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Choices

Another thing to add to this discussion is that you said you want to
eventually turn this truck into a pure off-road truck, and you do not do any
heavy towing, so you really don't "need" to hop up the engine too much to
get good seat of your pants performance... another reason to stick with what
you've got. If your flavor of "off-road" is sand or mud, then alot of
horsepower is a good thing (you will break your drivetrain sooner, and not
get stuck as far into the mud hole :^).... ), but for trails serious
tire-spinning horse power is pretty useless.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, July 26, 1999 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Motor Choices


>If you only use it as a daily driver then i don't see why you need to even
>upgrade it to a 390, if you did a rebuild on the 360 with some mild
>performance modifications, like head polishing, .030 overbore, 3-angle
valve
>job, the edelbrock intake, headers and dual exhaust, it would suit your
need
>well, even for most offroading you shouldn't need enough power to warrent a
>built 460, it'd probably add a ton of weight to the front end too, gas
>mileage should increase even with those mods if its tuned well,
>
>Ian
>79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
>members.aol.com/ianboss69/page/home.htm
>True Blue Ford Blue
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 22:10:38 -0500
From: "Brett L. Habben"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: edelbrock carbs

William,
If you're talking about the Carter AFB and it's Edelbrock clone, it's a
super simple setup. Suspended above the secondary throttle butterflies
is another set of butterflies on an offset shaft with a pair of weights
keeping the butterflies more or less shut. When you stomp on it the
throttle linkage opens the mechanical secondaries in the base, exposing
this second set of butterflies to whatever pressure differential exists
between the manifold and the atmoshere. When enough of a differential is
achieved to offset the weights, this second set of butterflies opens
allowing air to flow through the secondaries.
The Carter AVS's are like a Q-jet. The vacuum butterfly shaft has a
spring instead of weights keeping it shut but functions the same.
Brett
Super75cab

> Edelbrock carbs are air flow activated, so if you only need 700 cfm
that is all they will
>provide. how do they do this ? Sounds intriguing, but the engineer in
me has to know how ...

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 22:29:59 -0500
From: "Shane"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Floor Shifter ? 78 F-150

I am looking for a recamendation for a floor shifter for a 78 F-150 with a
C6. The truck came with a 4 speed and I have switched it to an automatic,
the shifter that I currently have is really tough to move from gear to gear,
it works about like a vise grips would. I would like to have one that is
labeled for P R N D 2 1 and lighted but the way it works is most important.


Shane





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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 20:50:27 -0700
From: "Steve Schwartz"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C

George,

Don't blame Bas, it was my original statement, and I stand by it.

You can NEVER have too much flow. You CAN, however, have too little
backpressure in the cooling system, allowing the pump to cavitate, and
actually REDUCING flow. That's what the restrictors are for, to keep water
around the pump impeller.

More flow means more HEAT removed, although the delta T across the system
will be less. The more heat you remove the lower the SYSTEM temperature,
i.e., the temp will be more uniform within the cooling system. A plugged
radiator will be colder on the outlet, than the inlet, and will cause the
SYSTEM temperature to rise.

Cast iron, solar heaters, or ceramic tile, the principle is the same.

Best,
Steve
"...if I tell ya there's CHEESE on the MOON, bring crackers."

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of George Litton
> Sent: Monday, July 26, 1999 6:46 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C
>
>
> Bas,
> Sometimes too much flow DOES hurt. If the water is flowing too fast, it
> will not absorb the heat out of the cast iron. All it takes is a look at
> the hi-perf catalogs and see the flow restrictors for sale. They help
> optimize flow speed to maintain desired temp.
>
> As for which engines get the restrictor stock, the 351C is the
> only one that
> I know of.
>

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 23:46:28 EDT
From: DRVNDBUS aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Floor Shifter ? 78 F-150

i also am considering the same choices as you are .i want to install a
shifter that shifts by means of cable its easier to run and doesnt require a
large hole in the floor board of the truck .mostly likely i will buy one at a
speed shop ( a little salty in price ) but well worth the investment

MARK/DRVNDBUS
DRVNDBUS AOL.COM
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 22:49:10 -0500
From: "Shane"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Predator Carberator

A friend of mine recommended using a Predator carberator on my 78 351 M. I
am looking for some input from people on these carberators?


Shane





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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 23:07:12 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Floor Shifter ? 78 F-150

I used a floor shifter out of an early Mustang to shift the C6 in my
1970 F100.


Shane wrote:
>
> I am looking for a recamendation for a floor shifter for a 78 F-150 with a
> C6.
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Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 00:13:11 EDT
From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Ford Red Book

In a message dated 99-07-26 22:22:35 EDT, you write:


>Darrell Duggan
>74 F-350 "Tweety" >>


Try www.go.com search books & magazines . The book IS there for $ 7.34 +
postage and shipping .

Steve
64 f100 2wdswb 460 ci
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 23:57:08 -0500
From: "Shane"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1978 and JC Whitney Overhead speakers

Has anyone installed JC Whitney's Overhead Speaker System in the 78 era
trucks? I was wondering how it fits, and how it looks? The sound can always
be improived with othe speakers.


Shane





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Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 01:05:57 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1978 and JC Whitney Overhead speakers

never installed one but i saw one that looked exactly the same in an LMC
truck catalog for a bit more money, wondering if they were the same or
theres a quality difference between JCW and LMC,,,,anybody????

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
members.aol.ccom/ianboss69/page/home.htm
True Blue Ford Blue
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 22:42:14 -0700
From: "Steven Salas"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 Cylinder walls

Tim , Yes some of the 390 blocks will make the .080 overbore for the 428
bore size. I don't suppose one of your blocks happens to have a backwards
105 on the front of it? I am using one of these, to make my 428. As far as
cylinder wall thickness necessary, my engine builder drew the line at .100
(after boring). Hope this helps. Steve



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Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 01:08:57 -0500
From: "Shane"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Floor Shifter ? 78 F-150

Was it a 60 or 70's mustang?


Shane




- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jason & Kathy Kendrick
To:
Sent: Monday, July 26, 1999 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Floor Shifter ? 78 F-150


> I used a floor shifter out of an early Mustang to shift the C6 in my
> 1970 F100.
>
>
> Shane wrote:
> >
> > I am looking for a recamendation for a floor shifter for a 78 F-150 with
a
> > C6.
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 01:10:28 -0500
From: "Shane"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1978 and JC Whitney Overhead speakers

What is the LMC catalog, what does it stand for ... do they have a web site?


Shane




- ----- Original Message -----
From:


> never installed one but i saw one that looked exactly the same in an LMC
> truck catalog for a bit more money, wondering if they were the same or
> theres a quality difference between JCW and LMC,,,,anybody????
>
> Ian
> 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
> members.aol.ccom/ianboss69/page/home.htm
> True Blue Ford Blue
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 02:05:40 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Edelbrock carbs.

Holley carbs use vacuum to activate the secondaries. Given a set vacuum,
the secondaries open a given amount.

On Edlebrock carbs, the secondary throttle plates are directly linked to
the primary throttles (just like in a Holley double pumper). They start
opening at about 25% opening, and fully open when the primaries are fully
open. Above the throttle plate is another plate. It is counterweighted,
and this is what provides the airflow control. When airflow thru the
primaries is insufficient for engine demand, the air pushes the
counterweighted plate down, and air starts to flow thru the secondaries.
Carter carbs are the same. In fact Carter and Edelbrock are both made by
Weber USA and just have different name plates on the front. Rebuild kits
interchange between the two.

Motorcraft 4300 series carbs are similar in operation to the
Edelbrock/Carter carbs, except they use a spring instead of a counterwieght
to hold the secondary flow plate shut, when airflow pressure against the....


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