From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #260
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61-79-list-digest Monday, July 26 1999 Volume 03 : Number 260



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - FE cylinder walls
Re: FTE 61-79 - *compact* spare
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE cylinder walls (Sonic Checking)
FTE 61-79 - Re: Steering column blues
FTE 61-79 - RE: 390 Cams
FTE 61-79 - RE: vacuum advance (ignition)
FTE 61-79 - RE: Help with Guages
FTE 61-79 - FW: RE: VERY LARGE Pickup-Style Body
Re: FTE 61-79 - problems with a 390
Re: FTE 61-79 - *compact* spare
Re: FTE 61-79 - serpentine belts and hi-po pulleys
FTE 61-79 - Re: steering column blues
Re: FTE 61-79 - 73-79trucks was spendingspree
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: # of 74 F-350 SRW Stylesides
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Carb size
Re: FTE 61-79 - 76 F100 questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - Alt light
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: steering column blues
FTE 61-79 - Re: late model factory rims
FTE 61-79 - hot engines
FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating 351C
FTE 61-79 - Surging truck
FTE 61-79 - 351M-400M Buildup
Re: FTE 61-79 - hot engines
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: steering column blues
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: steering column blues
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: steering column blues
Re: FTE 61-79 - Growing Up
Re: FTE 61-79 - smoking Joe Camel
Re: FTE 61-79 - Smokin Joe Camel
RE: FTE 61-79 - somewhat OT: Changing the auto trans filter
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C
Re: FTE 61-79 - emissions
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C
Re: FTE 61-79 - Growing Up
FTE 61-79 - Original owner - 1965 F-100
FTE 61-79 - Car shows
FTE 61-79 - Re: 240-300's: Where?

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 05:34:03 -0400
From: "Timothy R. Anderson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE cylinder walls

Hi everyone,
I've got a couple of 390 blocks that I'm going to
have sonic checked this week. I'm wondering
if any of you know what the minimum aceptable
wall thickness should be. My machinist may
have his own opinions but I'd like some other
input too. Yep, I'm still thinking about that .080
overbore to go with my 428 crank. Thanks for
any info you can give me.

Tim in Anchorage
'67 F-100
'77 F-250 4X4
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 07:55:35 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - *compact* spare

In a message dated 7/25/99 10:15:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
twistedhand hotmail.com writes:

> The problem is that i have no easy place to carry a spare that big when I
am
> hauling my camper.

I always put a spare on the roof as well as used the rear spare hanger under
the bed. Two is better than one. It does make it fun getting it up and down
but beats being stranded somewhere.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 08:08:02 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE cylinder walls (Sonic Checking)

In a message dated 7/26/99 5:36:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
timand compuserve.com writes:

> I've got a couple of 390 blocks that I'm going to
> have sonic checked this week.

How much does it cost per block? All the conventional wisdom I heard on this
subject says to put the money towards a 428 block as .080 is too thin and
even if you don't go through the walls it will change the characteristics of
the block leading to over-heating, warpage, etc. etc. I hear that a
serviceable 428 block goes between $500-1000. That's much cheaper than all
that time, money and heart-ache you'll waste on a 390 block.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 08:59:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pete Brunelli
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Steering column blues

Hi,
I swapped in the column from a 79 Bronco for my 78 250. It works like a
champ by you have to use the original trim piece. The swap got me tilt
and a nicer wheel. The original column had a shattered shift hub, and the
vice-grip shifter was not always grippy enough 8-) Find a good column at
the boneyard.

Also, i got the original out by using a rachet tie-down between the wheel
and the door pillar. Add some persuasion on the pinned hub (pin removed)
and it comes right out.

Pete in CT
'78 F250 Explorer Super Cab

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 06:05:03 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 390 Cams


Bill, Thanks for the post about the cam numbers. I'm in the planning
stages of a rebuild now and those will be helpful. One question, Where did
you get the output numbers from?

Thanks
Tom H.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 06:05:05 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: vacuum advance (ignition)

Bas van der Veer wrote:

A while ago I got advice from several people to use manifold vacuum for my
advance instead of ported vacuum. I tried it and it made my engine run a
bit more "steady" at low speeds, so I left it like that.

But then as the weather (california) was getting warmer, so was my engine.
At 90+ degrees, my engine was continuously at the red line, even while
driving a steady 60 mph on flat ground.



Then last night I was dreaming about my truck (of course, what else would
one dream about?) and all of a sudden realized that all these heat problems
arized after I changed the vacuum advance.


Altogether it looks like I'm better off changing it back to ported vacuum.
Any thoughts/comments??

Bas.

My reply:
Bas, You are correct, with more advance the motor will run warmer. One
thing I would like to point out is that at 60 mph the ported and manifold
vacuum values will be the same. When you changed the hoses did you also
change the initial timing value? With what you describe I would expect the
engine to heat up at idle but then cool down at speed. Perhaps if you
advanced the initial timing value that is causing the overheating and then
at speed the initial plus the vacuum advance is keeping it hot.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Tom H.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 06:05:01 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Help with Guages

Bas van der Veer writes:


But the charge/discharge meter is
usually separate, it is an isolated wire curled around one of the main
battery cables. The meter measures the induced voltage by the large
current. You can adjust the meter by changing the number of windings. Mine
actually is not connected at all.


>I have a hunch the problem may be in the cluster voltage regulator.
>Does anyone have any experience with this type of situation and a
>possible solution? Does anyone know the part # for the voltage
>regulator?

That should be easy to find out from a ford dealer.

My reply:
I had the same problem in my 76. I almost had a coronary the first time I
looked down at the oil pressure guage and it was on the "L". The problem
was the "Instrument Voltage Regulator." I got a replacement from the local
Kragen's so they are probably available from any good parts house. Obsolete
Ford lists the same part for 71-19 pickups and 78-79 broncos. The number is
D1AZ-10804-A (looks an awful lot like a Ford PN to me) at 19.95 each. Their
phone is 1-800-654-3247. The regulator is about the size of the horn relay
and is mounted on the back of the instrument cluster. It attaches with what
look like 9 volt battery connections. Be careful disconnecting them so as
not to damage the foil.

The charge meter (ammeter) is separate from the IVR. There were two kinds
one is an inductive pickup where the wire carrying the charge goes through a
loop on the back of the meter. The other type is a shunt style where the
charge current is divided between the meter and a shunt. The shunt is a
large diameter wire that is located under the hood and carries the majority
of the charge. The meter is connected in parallel with this and only
carries enough charge to deflect the needle. I'm not sure about pre 73
trucks but the 73-79 pickups and presumeably the 78-79 broncos have the
shunt style meter.

The charge meter in 73-79 trucks is notorious for not working. For it to
work the internal resistance of the meter must be balanced to the resistance
of the shunt. Bas, I believe your meter is probably hooked up but doesn't
work due to incorrect shunt resistance. The archives have a detailed
discussion on this from a couple of years ago.

Tom H.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 06:08:20 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FW: RE: VERY LARGE Pickup-Style Body

> ----------
> From: Hogan, Tom
> Sent: Monday, July 26, 1999 8:51 AM
> To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.comv'
> Subject: RE: VERY LARGE Pickup-Style Body
>
> Birken writes:
>
> All aremedium-duty or bigger but one that caught my eye is a pickup
> style, but
> medium duty. It is mid to late 70's I would guess. It has the same cab
> you'd expect to see on a dump truck but then almost what I would
> describe as a styleside bed that goes straight back from the cab (so
> it's wider than a normal bed) and then fender flares just like a
> dually. The bed isn't that long, must only be 10 or 12 feet. The
> wheels are either 20" or 22.5", 10 hole if I remember quickly. All in
> all it just looks like a scaled up pickup. Has anybody ever seen such
> an animal? I'd almost like to buy it because it looks like such a
> collector's item, not in bad shape.
>
> Birken
>
> My reply:
> When I lived in San Jose I saw one of these. The cab looked like a
> mid-80's style cab and the bed as you described. It was located at a
> transmission shop on Monterray highway between Tully and Alma streets. It
> may still be there. I thought it looked really cool. I wonder if you
> would need a special license to drive it.
>
> Tom H.
>
>
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 08:34:34 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - problems with a 390

>Truck: 1976 F-150 390 ci, stock holley 4160 (list 6947). New engine
>(bought a long block from a local parts house), distributor, fuel pump,
>coil, plug wires, and plugs. Just rebuilt the carb using a holley renew
>kit.
>
>Problems:
>
>1. I have no idea what the timing needs to be set too... One book I
>have
>suggests 6 degrees BTDC. The emissions sticker is gone...
>
6 is the base on most of the mid 70's pickups, its a good starting point,
but you might try using a vacuum gauge and or tuning by ear ... when
everything gets close you'll feel the motor really smooth out and hum ...
even at low revs...

>2. When my idle mixture screws are all the way in, the engine still
>runs.... I think I need new needles, they didn't look that great when I
>rebuilt the carb.
>
This would suggest that the needles and or seats aren't working right, or
you have a leak somewhere else too ... be sure the rears aren't leaking or
you'll have a massive flooding problem when they do start working right...

>3. One of my spark plugs is leaking where it screws into the block. (I
>am not impressed with the quality of the rebuilt long block) I wonder
>if
>I could use a spark plug gasket even though it wasn't made for it. I
>don't
>want to torque it any tighter, I might strip it, and that would suck.
>

A very bad sign, I would think this would be covered under the warranty
since you didn't cause this problem. Actually I don't understand how this
his happening?? I've had them work loose before, but having the heads
redone solved that problem....


>4. The truck doesn't make the low end torque like it should when
>stepping
>on the gas from dead stop. I have 33" tires on it and want it to throw
>mud to clean the tires when I need it to. I don't think this is the
>accelerator pump on the carb, I set it with a feeler gauge when I
>rebuilt
>the carb.
>

Timing can really affect this ... along with carb tuning and such ...

>5. The truck is missing a little tiny bit at idle, on the same side as
>the
>leaky plug.
>

Hmmm...probably the plug.

>6. How can I tell if the vacuum secondaries on my carb are working? It
>doesn't feel like all 4 barels are openning.
>

Hmmm..I've got a K&N on my truck with a semi-open element, you can hear the
rears kick in...

>7. Anyone wanna fly up here to alaska to look at it? I'll take you
>fishing ;)
>
Hehehehe....I'd love to, not the fishin part, but just seein AK would be
great!


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 08:37:41 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - *compact* spare

>I am running 7.50-17 tires on my truck. They measure about 36 inches in
>diameter.
>The problem is that i have no easy place to carry a spare that big when I am
>hauling my camper. I have a new 8.00-16.5 tire and rim (about 27inches in
>diameter) that i could mount underneath the bed.
>I realize that one small tire would make the handling interesting, but does
>anyone know if i could damage my axles?
>I have dana 60 and 44 axles under my truck.
>

It would depend a lot on the conditions and how fast you drove and all that
jazz. If you put the smaller tire on the front (yes it will pull a lot!)
with the hubs unlocked, you should be okay for quite a while, but if you
put it on the rear, or have the hubs locked, I would do this for as short a
distance as possible. I think part of the reason those temp spares are
rated for 50mi. at 50mph is not because of the tire so much (though the
tires are cheap) as it can really wear a gear set fast, and they know no
one is going to pay attention to it anyway ...

I have run a temp spare on my stang (with 17" stock rims a temp looks tiny
but is still bigger than most compact's full size tires!) for a ways
without hurting anything, but I stayed off the interstate and tried not to
go too far with it...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 08:38:48 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - serpentine belts and hi-po pulleys

>I have a 1968 390 and I was wondering if anyone knew of a serpentine
>belt system or alternate pulleys for this. I want to free up some power
>and am looking for the cheap ways to do it first. Any info would be
>gladly appreciated.
>

Have you checked with March ? Seems like they offer underdrive pullies.
I've considered them, but have other things I need to spend my money on :)
Maybe someday though ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 09:46:48 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: steering column blues

Darrell Duggan, 74 F-350 "Tweety" said:

> this tells me that all my problems were in my steering
> column. Today I start to take it apart, and BINGO found
> the problem. This was another case of the previous owner
> being a total moron. The turn signal cam broke, and he
> replaced it with a junkyard unit. But when he did, he just
> spliced all the wires together with electrical tape...(snip)
> I also discovered the squeak Ive been having lately, I have
> a bad upper bearing. All the metal in the upper portion is
> trash, thank to the PO not assembling everything right.

> My question is does anyone make or rebuild columns for the
> 73-79 ford trucks? If I can find one cheap, I will just buy
> that. If not, Im going to a wreckin yard, find a column,
> and build it myself. Any info you all have would be greatly
> appreciated.

Darrell,

I have had a lot of problems due to bodges performed by the PO of my van.
The first major one showed up right after I bought it. The shifting linkage
in the steering column was broken, so I sometimes couldn't shift out of
first gear. Also, the turn signals and horn didn't work. Mental note: when
the PO tells you that he hasn't washed the van once in the last 7 years,
expect some mechanical problems, too. :)

I found a steering column from an early Econoline at a u-pull-it yard and
just pulled the whole thing. I got everything for $10! That included the
steering wheel. I considered that an incredible price, and if you've ever
priced just the turn signal wire harness, it was worth it for just that
alone. I now have a shifter that works, working turn signals and horn, and
an extra steering wheel -- that I used when I was restoring my original one.

The steering column on the early Econolines is more simple that those on
the 73-79 trucks, so I wouldn't expect such an amazine price, but if you
really need a new column, I'd try the boneyard first. I don't know of
anyone who specializes in just rebuilding columns.

- -don

- --
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles


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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 08:50:13 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 73-79trucks was spendingspree

> Well the list just keeps getting longer :) the truck is registered as a
>73, but I have discovered so far the frame is a 73, the cab is 76 and now
>possibly has a 79 box. I will have to just start calling it a true "73-79"
>truck LOL.

Have you seen the page on my truck ?
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html

You'll find its not as uncommon as it sounds at first.


> On that note I was wondering if someone could confirm my deciphering of
>the VIN F26YRR05486 and see what the truck is actually supposed to be from
>the factory. I found it was a 73 F250 4x4 (so far so good) a 360 2bbl (oh
>oh guess I have to get out the wooden dowel and check) assembled in San
>Jose. Also I was wondering what the 4v intake manifold # D5TE9425M
>installed now originally came off. Thanks.
>

The 360 was the only FE available in the 4x4 of the mid 70's from the
factory. I have swapped in a 390 from a 4x2 to my 4x4 though with no
problems. The intake manifold is from a 75 pickup, sounds amazingly like
the one I have ... from a 390 originally. Check out my page on the rebuild
(http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/rebuild.html) to see a comparo between a
C5AE and a D5TE intake manifold.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 08:52:43 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: # of 74 F-350 SRW Stylesides

>>
>
>
>Thank you very much. Know where I can find this "Ford Red Book"? I wonder
>if this would break it down by options. Basically Id like to know how many
>of these were work trucks, and how many of these are the fully loaded
>monsters like Tweety. Maybe I'll hit Barnes and Noble. Thanks again for the
>info.
>
The Red Books should all be available from a local bookstore, I can get you
the ISBN number tomorrow if I pull my head out long enough to remember the
book. It won't quite break things down like this though ... it lists most
of the "major" options, which is way more than most people think of (shocks
were optional on an F350 for instance!) It also lists motors and part
numbers for dist's and carbs, but doesn't always break things down nicely.
Also be very careful reading it, sometimes its like reading a Microsoft
release, its technically correct, but to understand exactly what they're
saying you may need to read it a couple times.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 08:54:05 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Carb size

> Edelbrock carbs
>are air flow activated, so if you only need 700 cfm that is all they will
>provide.
>

What does this mean ? a Holley is the same way as long as you don't have
your foot all the way in it ... how do they do this ? Sounds intriguing,
but the engineer in me has to know how ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 08:56:01 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 76 F100 questions

>Have an engine knock, then looked to discover hydraulic lifters. Other than
>an exhaust leak,
>any ideas of what this could be? Sounds just like a loose valve, but gets
>more pronounced when
>under greater power.
>

What motor do you have ? Have you checked to be sure all the rockers are
tight ? Also check the exhaust as these are often the source of pops when
there are small holes.

>Secondly, the bed is shot. Can I just pop a new one on without messing with
>the gas tank (I
>mean other than the filler neck)?
>
Check the frame widths and such and you should be able to, check years and
such first.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 09:09:35 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Alt light

>I have a funny kind of problem. When I started my truck, the alt light goes
>out and seems to be charging. But when the truck warms up, the alt light
>pops on and the amp gauge confirms that it's stopped charging. The only
>thing I've done recently is change the voltage regulator. I also get a
>terrible whine in my speakers when the headlights are on, but when the
>alternator stops charging, the whine stops too! All and any help welcome.
>Thanks in advance!
>
Check the voltage regulator, sounds like it might be cutting out when it
gets warm, maybe put the old one back on, or borrow one to see if that is
causing the problems.

Otherwise check the alternator, if the whine stops, then likely there isn't
much going on in there... not sure what all you can check on it, other
than to be sure the bearings are good and not wobbling. You may be able to
take it into a local shop and have it checked (ie AutoZone)


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 09:17:04 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: steering column blues

>> My question is does anyone make or rebuild columns for the
>> 73-79 ford trucks? If I can find one cheap, I will just buy
>> that. If not, Im going to a wreckin yard, find a column,
>> and build it myself. Any info you all have would be greatly
>> appreciated.
>

Didn't someone like Bill (as if there aren't 20 others on this list!)
rebuild their column and find some new bearings that work well ?!?!?!?

I'd love to get mine rebuilt sometime soon, but don't want to go to the
column igntion of the later trucks so keeping the stock one would be a big
+ for me. The odds of finding a good used one are about as good as finding
hens teeth around here, though I'll look around.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 07:35:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: late model factory rims

Steve wrote:
> There is a problem with clearance of the brake calipers on the 8"
> styled steel wheels. I bought a set a few years ago and they
> would not fit on my 78 4wd supercab. I ended up trading for a set
> of Ford Bronco wheels and used the late model chrome center caps.

There are probably more, but there are two kinds of styled steel
wheels that I know of. The first is the late 80's spoke style
wheel with trim rings. The second is the later one where the
center comes out to the outer edge of the rim. Are these the
ones you are referring to? What year trucks did your wheels come
on? Are you saying that the ones you have are not 8"?

I looked at a set of the 8" spoke style wheels. They have a 4.5"
backspacing. The aluminum wheels I have now have a 4" backspacing
and barely clear the tie rod ends. The styled wheels all came on
trucks that have IFS front axles. This makes me wonder if they
would fit at all. I have never seen a 70's 4WD 1/2 ton with later
factory wheels on it.

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4 (with front disk brakes)

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 17:31:30 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - hot engines

> > >I have never had one break, with "good" I merely meant "higher flow than
> > >others".
> > >
> > Robert Shaw and Mr. Gasket both market balanced hi-flow thermostats, and
> > those are the ones I was referring to. I have had them break and get
> > sticky from corrosion. Break is bad, they will stick closed and move the
> > rod in and out of a hole that is supposed to be the anchor to open the
> > thermostat.
>
>Hmm well I have the Stant now, maybe later I'll buy one of those.
>
> > >I'd say, as long as they don't corrode there is litle to wear out.
> > >
> > I think the phrase one of my friends found in a book was "a thermostat is
> > mechanical, nothing mechanical is perfect (except maybe a 427 Cobra SC)."
> > The point was it can break, it may be a simple mechanism but there's
>still
> > any number of things that can go wrong with it, and usually do.
>
>Well, nothing electrical is perfect either, for that matter :) I have
>more confidence in mechanical things when it comes to trucks. Electrical
>stuff can last ages in a home / office but out in the dirt they are
>too vulnerable.
>
> > >I did not check this out. The weather was also getting warmer, but I
> > >remember from last year (when it was even hotter) that it did not get
> > >hot, at least not on the freeway like it did now.
> > >
> > What all have you changed since last year ? Anything that increases
>power
> > will increase the heat under the hood. What else have you changed ?
>
>The main thing that increased power were the change in ignition timing
>(it was about 6 deg retarded from the 14 BTDC spec) and a carb rebuild.
>Other than that I replaced some components and did some fine tuning.
>
> > >That's what I figured too. Still it was at a constant 210 degrees or
> > >something, too hot.
> > >
> > Wow, what temp did you put in ? I thought you said 180, if its gettin
>180.
>
> > clear up to 210 I would guess a) the thermostat's not good or b) you have
> > other issues ... you can get over 212 (boiling point for water) as long as
> > you have pressure in the system without boiling, but the closer to 200 you
> > can keep it the safer you'll be.
>Well, the temp went down to 180 on cool mornings/nights, but then in the
>afternoon it would inevitably go up. I have about 1/3 antifreeze mixture
>(doesn't get very cold here) and I put this stuff called "water wetter"
>in, it increases the water's heat capacity. I made sure the fan is well
>driven (belt is tight and does not slip). This with the 4-core radiator
>and .. nope, still gets hot #%$^^%$#!!!
>
>The bottom of the radiator got pretty hot too, to the extend that I could
>only hold my hand on it for a few seconds before the pain became master.
>So apparently the coolant is flowing. But maybe not enough.
>
> > >Actually I also want to look at my temperature gauge. I have another one
> > >which reads direct. Maybe I should install it. It has a 10 degree offset
> > >all through the scale (maybe somebody dropped it or something) but
> > >according to the pan-of-boiling-water test this is pretty linear. At
> > >least that rules out the gauge.
> > >
> > If you've "calibrated" your temp gauge you should be able to tell exactly
> > how its running, is it an elec. gauge or a "mechanical" one ? the
>
>Right now I have an electrical one, I only calibrated it by replacing the
>original 195 deg thermostat with the current 180 deg version, and
>observing the different static reading.
>
> > mechanical ones are really nice, especially since they work after the motor
> > is shut off, you can see how much temp you are really gaining and if the
> > motor is warm or cold when you start it. My truck showed overheating until
> > I installed a mech. gauge, then guess what? it never got over 170 except
> > sitting at a stop light for 10+minutes when it would "creep" very slowly to
> > 175 ... then drop down as soon as I touched the gas. Quite a bit better
> > than the H that the elec. gauge showed when I started out from a stop-light.
>
>Yeah I want to install mine too. How do I do it anyway? I mean, do I have
>to use a gasket or is leakage not a problem here? I am not loosing any
>fluid although when the gauge gets that high I cannot even touch the hood
>or I'll burn my hand. I also smell the rubber being hot.
>
>But yeah, I had the same thing with the oil pressure gauge. It showed
>low, installed mechanical one.. 75 PSI!!
>
> > >That's what they are supposed to do but it looks like mine is broken. It
> > >does not let anything through, hot or cold. Good point, I'll see if I can
> > >get a new one at the same time.
> > >
> > Lemme know how hard those are to find and get working, we have a car that's
> > overheating and this may be a good fix for it, especially with the weather
> > around here changing so much from one season to the next.
>
>Yeah the thermostat housing is kinda rusted, getting it out may be tough.
>
> > >The other thing that worried me a little is that I felt this vibration
> > >through the gas pedal, almost a grinding feeling. It is of course
> > >speculation but maybe the force of the pre-ignition is more significant
> > >than I thought.
> >
> > You should be able to hear any pinging or knocking, if you feel it before
> > you hear it, its probably something else, and if it was knocking enough for
> > you to feel it, I would think you would have some more serious problems
> > than running a bit warm ... unless your motor is trying to vapor lock or
> > sieze up because of the heat...
>
>
>No the only thing is that when it is really hot (also outside temp) and
>you shut it off I have to crank it for a few seconds (2-3). But that's
>when the carb is so hot you cannot even touch it, so it's excused. It's
>probably just getting rid of the vaporized fuel. When it is at normal or
>cold temperature it only takes 1/2 turn to start it, even when I was in
>the desert last winter with -10 degrees F. It's not knocking, I had
>it do that only once when I ran out of gas just while having the pedal to
>the floor, and it sounded like I ran into anvil. No the engine is running
>great, even when hot it does not run rough or loose power.
>
>Now that I think of it, even at idle the stress from having early
>ignition (by the spark plug) is probably nothing like the stress at full
>throttle, so yeah that won't hurt it. The only issue is the heat.
>

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 11:33:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C

Another cause of overheating at high RPM's is a
slipping belt. Check the tension, but don't
overtighten. Look for glazing on the inside or just
replace it.
You can check the radiator by feeling the lower tank
or outlet side on a crossflow, it should be near air
temperature. Do this after running down the freeway a
few miles. If it's cool and your motor is hot then the
problem is the pump or belt. If it is almost as hot as
the intake side, the problem is the radiator.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V

> > Hey all, Haven't posted in a while. Got an
> overheating problem. I remember a
> > big discussion on this quite some time back. I
> recently put a 351C engine
> > from a 1970 Cougar into a 78 F150 Pickup for a
> customer.
> > The thing was used and I put a lot of new parts in
> it for him. oil pump,
> > waterpump, timing chain, A/C, etc. Well the thing
> runs awesome.
> > As long as it just sits at an Idle it never gets
> hot. You can run the A/C at
> > full blast and it stays right around 195/200
> degrees.
> > As soon as you rev up the motor to a fast idle and
> hold it there or run it
> > down the road and get into it any it starts to get
> hot and then over heats.
> > I used the pulleys off of the 302 it had in it.
> The waterpump pulley and
> > crank pulley. I tried a spacer on the fan to move
> it closer to the radiator
> > and that didn't help. It has a fan shroud. Used
> the fan from the 302. I've
> > tried almost every possible thing I can think of
> short of major tear down. I
> > was wondering if these engines may have a problem
> with cavitation in the
> > water pump if the water pump pulley is spinning to
> fast?
> > Any help is greatly appreciated.

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 17:34:41 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating 351C

> Have you checked to see how far your timing is advancing? I had a similar
> problem with a To*ota. Turned out the thing was at 35' initial, over 60
> total advance. Thing made AWESOME top end power, but overheated everytime I
> got on the freeway.

See, wish, this is what I was experiencing too when I had my vacuum
advance connected to the manifold. It is just too much advance. Actually
in my case the power increase was very small. Will post more later.

BAs.

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 08:42:29 -0700
From: "Sam Weatherby"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Surging truck

I noticed a slight surging in my truck one day.
It wouldn't start the next day.
Later I got it to start, but it only ran as long as I was quickly pumping
the gas.
After some effort it now runs pumping the gas moderately.
I will run at without constant pumping if I have some speed but,
now it surges quite a bit when driving at a constant speed.

Any ideas what this could be caused by?


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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 11:58:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: "J. Allison"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351M-400M Buildup

Howdy Folks! I was going through some of my stuff
yesterday and happened across an article that goes
thru the buildup for a 400M Ford small block. It's
from the September 1998 issue of Hot Rod magazine and
is the rough equivalent of 3 1/2 full pages of info.
The article starts on page 84 and is titled "Down &
Dirty, The 400M Ford: 468 Ft-Lbs and 380 HP for Less
Than $2000" This may have been brought up way back
when but in case it wasn't, ya'll might want to go
down to the local library to get some photocopies if
you are interested. For what its worth...

J. Allison
1967 1/2 ton


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 11:15:52 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - hot engines

>>The main thing that increased power were the change in ignition timing
>>(it was about 6 deg retarded from the 14 BTDC spec) and a carb rebuild.
>>Other than that I replaced some components and did some fine tuning.
>>

So you went from 6 to 14 deg ? That is quite a change, I'm surprised you
don't get some knocking, though the motors of that era are quite low
compression in my opinion.... try backing that off to 10 or 12 instead of
the 14, I know the 14 is fun, but we do have to try and keep it moderated.

>>Well, the temp went down to 180 on cool mornings/nights, but then in the
>>afternoon it would inevitably go up. I have about 1/3 antifreeze mixture
>>(doesn't get very cold here) and I put this stuff called "water wetter"
>>in, it increases the water's heat capacity. I made sure the fan is well
>>driven (belt is tight and does not slip). This with the 4-core radiator
>>and .. nope, still gets hot #%$^^%$#!!!
>>

What about a fan shroud ? do you have one at all ? this will make a big
difference, I noticed mine likes to really warm up when its idling, but get
it rolling and it does just fine, even in the 95+temps with 90%+ humidity
at 70mph on the interstate. But come to a stop immediately after that and
the temp really starts to climb, as long as you get going again right away
it will drop right back down. This tells me I need a) a fan shroud or b)
elec. fans because I'm not getting enough airflow through the radiator at
the low revs (idle)

>>Yeah I want to install mine too. How do I do it anyway? I mean, do I have
>>to use a gasket or is leakage not a problem here? I am not loosing any
>>fluid although when the gauge gets that high I cannot even touch the hood
>>or I'll burn my hand. I also smell the rubber being hot.
>>

Well the obvious part is to wait til the motor's cooled off :) Then you
can either drain off the coolant til the sensor is above the water line, or
you can hope you're really quick with the next steps ... before you pull
the old sensor out, you should be able to tell what size of fitting you'll
need for the manifold, your gauge should have come with several sizes
unless its custom for Fords. You can put some teflon tape around the
threads if you want, but usually its not needed, the instructions will
cover how to fit the adapter and sensor into the water, but basically you
just tighten it all down... make sure you thread the hose for the sensor
through the hole in the firewall first, otherwise you'll be stuck with the
gauge in the engine compartment... its a pretty easy install, if you want
the light hooked up you can hook it to a keyed source or a light source,
either one, as long as its not on when the truck's off.

>>Yeah the thermostat housing is kinda rusted, getting it out may be tough.
>>
I thought the thermostat housings were aluminum ???? be careful pullin it
out too, soak it in something to be sure you don't crack the housing ...
that would really suck ...



> Have you checked to see how far your timing is advancing? I had a similar
> problem with a To*ota. Turned out the thing was at 35' initial, over 60
> total advance. Thing made AWESOME top end power, but overheated everytime I
> got on the freeway.

>See, wish, this is what I was experiencing too when I had my vacuum
advance connected to the manifold. It is just too much advance. Actually
in my case the power increase was very small.

A 35deg initial advance is a TON of advance ... you probably can't get your
truck to idle with anything near that kind of advance... like I said
earlier try backing it off a little, but you shouldn't be having problems
like this with a basically stock motor unless you have other things
contributing (such as clogged block) ... I'm running a mild 390 (big cam
and intake) with a 3core radiator even a smaller hole in the front of the
grille (73style rad. support) and I am having no problems with overheating
at all, but my motor is fresh, everything is essentially new in the cooling
system, so its all working very well.



Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 18:25:22 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: steering column blues

> >> My question is does anyone make or rebuild columns for the
> >> 73-79 ford trucks? If I can find one cheap, I will just buy
> >> that. If not, Im going to a wreckin yard, find a column,
> >> and build it myself. Any info you all have would be greatly
> >> appreciated.

I had my column rebuilt by Chuck frear at 4play automotive in san carlos,
CA. He ot a rebuild kit from the dealer for $90 (78 bronco). It also came
with a new gear selector thingie (there used to be 2" of play in the lever,
now it is nice and tight). Altogether it was like $200-$250. Well worth
it. It also had the bearings etc.
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 12:45:17 EDT
From: Steer1098 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: steering column blues

Does your entire column need rebuilt or just the "shift tube"? (The thingie
that makes the gear lever nice and tight!)
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 12:55:48 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: steering column blues

>Does your entire column need rebuilt or just the "shift tube"? (The thingie
>that makes the gear lever nice and tight!)

In my case its the steering and NOT the shift thingy that needs the help
... nothin like a tilt wheel in a non tilt column ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 17:32:34 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Growing Up

>I'm a child. It's a toy. I polish, paint, abuse, and fix my toy. It's

I grew up in the netherlands and some of my relatives live in Canada. I
went to visit them and from then on I never wanted anything else than
american cars/trucks. I worked hard and found my way into silicon valley. I
got my bronco right away and every since then, I have done little that did
not have to do with it - except during the week when I work for the company
(my other obsession).

>more toys you know) If I get sick enough of it I might put a brick on
>the accellerator and turn it loose on the levee road. Or set it on
>fire. Who cares, it's an ugly car that should never have been built, and

You may be right that it should not have been built, but now that it is
here you should still treat it with some respect! Just like I would still
show respect for a person I don't particularly care for, the same goes for
material.

I must say, I like the practical, straight forward design. As far as body
style goes, the 70s do particularly well. With the engines the 60s are more
my taste. You open the hood and you see an engine, air intake, battery. My
'78 bronco is from outside of california and already has a lot of crap on
it. A friend of mine has a '77 which was sold in california and the whole
d*mn engine compartment looks like a christmas tree.

>I could care less about it. She thinks I need a new car to drive to
>work, but I don't Why spend $15-$20,000 on a shiny new shovel. I can't
>leave it out in the rain...

Plus, just that a vehicle is a "black box" with a gas pedal and a steering
wheel would drive me nuts. Whenever I operate a machine I sooner or later
cannot resist the urge to find out more about it. How can people live with
just pushing a button and never finding out what's behind it??? And with
all the computers in cars/trucks nowadays, the black box is there and more
and more stuff disappears into it. I'm a computer geek myself but I want
machines I work with to be like an "open book".

>I refuse to grow up.

I have grown up, but in my own way. Don't care what other people consider
mature and what not.




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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 17:40:14 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - smoking Joe Camel

>more easily, which some does immediately. I think one reason my 351M
>performs as well as it does is because I have the original air cleaner
>complete with functional cold air ram from in front of the radiator.

Hmm, my intake is actually right of the radiator. I was planning on buying
a K&N filter, a friend of mine said he used one and that it (together with
his headers) gave him a lot more power.

Bas.


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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 17:44:15 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Smokin Joe Camel

>> > Those of you who live in shall we say more stable climates, might not
>have
>> > this problem, but here its nice to tune a carb any time of the year and
>>
>> Stable climate?? My geraniums froze this winter :( grin...
>Geraniums,,, freezing???, don't you have heated homes over there ?

Yeah - but the geraniums had been OUTSIDE for over 5 years without
freezing.

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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 17:56:22 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - somewhat OT: Changing the auto trans filter

> >Around 110K it was slipping pretty badly going into O/D. As a last ditch
>>effort, I changed the filter/fluid and added a can of K&W Trans-X. It
>>hasn't slipped since. Normally I laugh at those "mechanic-in-a-can"
>>products, but it worked well for me.
>As it did for me...Good stuff (not cheap, though). Normally I don't post

Speaking of additives.. What do you guys think about those engine oil &
fuel additives? Any experiences? A friend of mine said they used an oil
additive in some cabs and ran others without for a reference. They found no
difference.

What does this trans-x do? Does it work preventative in good transmissions?

Then another thing, how do you tell a transmission slips? My transmission
seems to shift crisp (C6). According to the book, if the band is out of
adjustment the shifts to second gear are sluggish. In my case the shifts to
second are a little crisper than the ones from 2nd (the band has been
adjusted 9 months / 15k miles ago). I guess that means I'm in good shape.

I know I keep talking about my transmission, it just seems like one of
those things that will keep working until it falls apart, no clear warning.

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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 11:14:58 -0700
From: "Steve Schwartz"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C

Sorry, Dan, but I have to take issue with this.

The best indicator of a plugged/corroded radiator is a large difference in
temperature from inlet to outlet; in fact, most modern radiator shops use an
infrared pyrometer to measure the delta T from inlet to outlet, as a
diagnostic indicator of a bad radiator.

A good radiator will have high flow, and will not change temperature very
much from inlet to outlet. However, since the flow is high, the volume of
water through the radiator is also high, and the amount of HEAT (not
temperature) lost to the air is greater. If the radiator is plugged, the
flow will, of course, decrease and while the temperature will drop more,
less heat is lost, due to less water flowing.

The reason more heat is lost when there is better flow is that 1) more
heated water passes through the radiator, and 2) the difference in temp of
the water and the air is higher on average. Thermodynamics states that the
rate of heat flow from one medium to another is proportional to the
difference in temperature.

So, in Ford Truck terms, get as much flow as possible: clean radiator, hoses
properly installed (internal support coils in place), outlet restrictor if
specified (to prevent pump cavitation, which LOWERS flow), proper
thermostat, belts properly tensioned (so the water pump turns), etc. Water
Wetter works, too, by lowering the thermal resistance between the
water/block/radiator.

Hope this helps,

Steve
'73 F-250


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Dan Lee
> Sent: Monday, July 26, 1999 8:34 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C
>
>
> You can check the radiator by feeling the lower tank
> or outlet side on a crossflow, it should be near air
> temperature. Do this after running down the freeway a
> few miles. If it's cool and your motor is hot then the
> problem is the pump or belt. If it is almost as hot as
> the intake side, the problem is the radiator.
>
> Dan Lee
> '53 F100
> 351C-4V
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jul 1999 13:17:40 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - emissions

>> FTE content: If I ever win the lottery I'll take a 460 (or a 534 ),
>> put a custom made cam in it that operates the valves in 2-stroke fashion,
>> make the distributor run at double speed(install super high energy coil)
>> and replace the spark plugs with injectors. You'd get double power without
>> the added stress on your engine, you still have low compression -> low
>> emissions. But of course you'd fail visual
>>
>If this is a reality based suggestion(meaning it would accually work) I
>don't think you'd have to win the lottery, showing the auto industry how to
>make more power with lower emmissions, and gas milage, with no added stress
>on the engine, would most likely pay for itself, how about it? and for
>suggesting this i get 5% of whatever you earn by building this 2-stroke
>460.....just another crazy idea

Yeah actually the two-stroke engines are cleaner when it comes to NOx
emissions, because the fuel does not burn as hot. I know an engineer from
Yamaha, he said they had regular two-stroke motors that could run a 1:500
oil/fuel mixture.

It may be that the cylinder probably does not flush properly through the
valves, even with a redundancy of air. With regular 2-strokes there are
ports in the cylinder walls and their setup has a lot of influence in the
engine's power and efficiency. I have seen a big diesel engine that was a
2-stroke, because it flushed the cylinders with clean air, it could flush
with huge amounts of air and much faster, without loosing any fuel. The
fuel was then injected directly into the cylinder like a normal diesel.
This engine was from the 20s-30s in a big ship and had 2 cylinders with an
outside diameter of 2-3 feet. But I don't see why you could not do this to
a car/truck engine.

Maybe I should start working for cummins :)

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 11:37:58 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating 351C

>The reason more heat is lost when there is better flow is that 1) more
>heated water passes through the radiator, and 2) the difference in temp of
>the water and the air is higher on average. Thermodynamics states that the
>rate of heat flow from one medium to another is proportional to the
>difference in temperature.

Thanks, finally somebody who understood his high school physics :) I had to
fight numerous people who claimed a thermostat helped against overheating.
It only restricts the flow to make sure the engine does not stay too cold.

>properly installed (internal support coils in place), outlet restrictor if
>specified (to prevent pump cavitation, which LOWERS flow), proper
>thermostat, belts properly tensioned (so the water pump turns), etc. Water

So you're saying a thermostat helps against pump cavitation? I would not
think this is the case but then again I'm not a ford design engineer. Which
engines have these restrictors, and what do they look like?

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 15:05:03 EDT
From: DRVNDBUS aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Growing Up

In a message dated 7/26/99 11:11:39 AM Pacific Daylight Time, yl dds.nl
writes:


Return-Path:
Received: from aol.com (rly-zb01.mail.aol.com [172.31.41.1]) by
air-zb04.mail.aol.com (v60.18) with ESMTP; Mon, 26 Jul 1999 14:11:39 -0400
Received: from ford-trucks.com (ford-trucks.com [192.41.63.203]) by
rly-zb01.mx.aol.com (v60.18) with ESMTP; Mon, 26 Jul 199 >>
I like your outlook on computerized cars . I have a wallet not a truck of
money these days so it would posess a substantial problem if i needed to make
repairs on these new trucks that are made in the 90's
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 15:05:37 -0400
From: "Schanbacher, John"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Original owner - 1965 F-100

I have a 1965 F-100, 240 C.I. all original, restored Flareside. Need to
contact those who own an original to discuss equipment and colors etc. for
final details. Please e-mail to jschanbacher admin.fsu.edu


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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 14:34:40 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Car shows

Well folks, since most of you will hear about this anyway, and I have
included some Ford trucks (some rare Mercs too) I thought I'd just post
this here.

This weekend in Davenport there was the final Mercury and Deuce reunion.
There were tons of cars there, but to avoid the heat and humidity as much
as possible (it didn't work) we went at 9am so we didn't see ALL the cars,
but a lot of them. I took pics til I was afraid the digicamera was going
to over heat! :) Okay just 39, but still some really nice stuff,
including 2 (yes 2!) glass tops! The link is

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Images/mercndeuce/mercndeuce.html

Its a basic front page and a little rough, but the pics turned out pretty
good and there is some info on each, if you want more info feel free to....


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