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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #257
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61-79-list-digest Saturday, July 24 1999 Volume 03 : Number 257



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Antenna
FTE 61-79 - Cams -FE
Re: FTE 61-79 - e4od
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cams -FE
Re: FTE 61-79 - OH MY WOUNDED PRIDE!
Re: FTE 61-79 - horsepower #'s
Re: FTE 61-79 - e4od
FTE 61-79 - Re:It's been awhile????????
FTE 61-79 - Re: Shipping Advice (Wheels)
FTE 61-79 - Re: Exhaust
RE: FTE 61-79 - More 240-300 questions
FTE 61-79 - 5 lug wheels
Re: FTE 61-79 - Extraordinary Ford Trucks
Re: FTE 61-79 - Power steering pump pully
FTE 61-79 - vacuum advance (ignition)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck
Re: FTE 61-79 - 5 lug wheels
Re: FTE 61-79 - vacuum advance (ignition)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Extraordinary Ford Trucks
FTE 61-79 - Gear ratios - how to
Re: FTE 61-79 - Power steering pump pully
RE: FTE 61-79 - Power steering pump pully
Re: FTE 61-79 - vacuum advance (ignition)
Re: FTE 61-79 - vacuum advance (ignition)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Power steering pump pully
FTE 61-79 - cap and rotor interchangeability
Re: FTE 61-79 - cap and rotor interchangeability
Re: FTE 61-79 - Matching Gears (More)
FTE 61-79 - 76 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - 76 F100
FTE 61-79 - Trailer Harness
FTE 61-79 - Flywheel & Presure Plate Heat Cracks
FTE 61-79 - 600 or 750cfm - which is better?
FTE 61-79 - 428 cam
FTE 61-79 - Alt light
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Exhaust
FTE 61-79 - 600 or 750 cfm
Re: FTE 61-79 - 600 or 750cfm - which is better?
FTE 61-79 - Flywheel and pressure plate heat cracks
Re: FTE 61-79 - 76 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - e4od

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 18:05:54 +0800
From: "David and Cherie"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Antenna

I have one on my Falcon, it just sticks up and across the edge of the
windscreen.
I got it from Tandy I think.
Dave
Australia
F 350 68


>>Speaking of antenna, I was thinking about running a new antenna
>*inside*the van.
>
>There is a antenna that is designed for just such a application.
>I think it may be called a Hiddenteena.A stereo shop should be able
>to find one for you. A lot of street rods have them.


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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 08:37:41 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cams -FE

Bill Ballinger writes: >>The NHRA 428CJ blueprint hydraulic-lifter cam is :
224 232
304 324
.481
.490
114 LCA
0 44
52 0

442 lbs FT 4000 RPM 407HP 5500 RPM And you have to hear the idle on
this one, SWEET. I knew two different guys in back in high school who
had this cam in their Stangs. In a 390 it sounds TOUGH.

If my memory serves me correctly this is Ford P/N C8AE-6250-C. Can't be sure,
but the specs look awfully familiar. If it is, I ran this cam in a 428, a 410,
and a 390. All were very strong with it, but you have to run headers to get the
true benefit. Gotta get those exhaust gases out of there.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 06:50:51 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - e4od

Shane wrote...

> Where does one get a transmission like this. Does it hold up to the
abuse?
..............

I'm not quite sure what you mean by "abuse" but...

I had a 92 F250 HD (Dana 50 IFS front) 4x4 with 460 and E4OD which
seemed to have no problems hauling a large camper and boat up some very long
and steep grades. I only traveled 39,000 miles before selling the truck, but
never had a problem with the E4OD.

Danger



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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 07:12:54 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cams -FE

> Bill Ballinger writes: >>The NHRA 428CJ blueprint hydraulic-lifter cam is
:
> 224 232
> 304 324
> .481
> .490
> 114 LCA
> 0 44
> 52 0
>
> 442 lbs FT 4000 RPM 407HP 5500 RPM And you have to hear the idle on
> this one, SWEET. I knew two different guys in back in high school who
> had this cam in their Stangs. In a 390 it sounds TOUGH.
.............
> If my memory serves me correctly this is Ford P/N C8AE-6250-C. Can't be
sure,
> but the specs look awfully familiar. If it is, I ran this cam in a 428, a
410,
> and a 390. All were very strong with it, but you have to run headers to
get the
> true benefit. Gotta get those exhaust gases out of there.
>
> Azie
..........

When I asked the local machinist about a good cam choice for a 390 4 bbl
he picked something very similar to the 69 CJ 428 hydraulic lifter cam. The
engine sounds nice with the headers and high flow exhaust, but it's a bit
loud. I'm installing a new flywheel and Centerforce dual friction clutch,
and can't wait to hear the engine again... hehe

Danger


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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 08:27:47 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - OH MY WOUNDED PRIDE!

>I had a similar problem with a '71 F100 with a 360 cid in it, what I found
>was that the rubber fuel line down by the fuel pump had gotten soft and
>would sometimes collapse on me. I replaced the fuel line and installed a new
>vented fuel cap and cured the problem.
>

When it comes to the fuel cap, it can be a pain in the rear to find a new
one that fits right and the rubber on your old one will sometimes get soft
and get sucked into the vent portion. Mine was painted up all nice, so
instead of looking for a new one, I made one. I had a gasket kit from when
I rebuilt my motor, found a piece of gasket that was similar thickness to
the rubber piece that was on the truck, and traced the old one to get the
size close. It ain't pretty because I didn't have any scissors handy (had
to use a knife free hand), but it works great, no more vent blockages from
the rubber seal on the tank.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 08:28:37 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - horsepower #'s

>> I was wondering if there was any way that somebody out there could find
>> the factory numbers(hp,trq) for a 1968 Mustang with a 390GT.
>>
>Try about 312 horsepower at 3,400 rpm and 427 foot pounds of torque at
>3,200 rpm.

DOH! I just looked it up and there ya go beatin me to it :) I think the
rating was 320, but gettin 312 of that is probably doin pretty darned good.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 08:35:00 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - e4od

At 01:47 AM 7/23/99 , you wrote:
>Where does one get a transmission like this. Does it hold up to the abuse?
>
>
>> He also put a e4od in it with a programmable computer. He can program all
>> his shift points and has LEDs on his dash which indicate the current gear


This controller is an additional amount of money ($400?) from Baumann
engineering if I remember right ... at any rate the tranny isn't
programmable without the aftermarket computer, and it needs a computer to
make it work right ... so don't expect to run out and throw one in and have
all this work right off ....

You can find them under most heavier duty pickups from the early 90's on ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 09:02:14 -0500
From: Don Yerhot
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:It's been awhile????????

If it's not the guage, it's probably cam bearings. I had the same
problem on a 351W and basically did the same thing you did, new pump,
bottom end bearings. Even ran a mechanical oil pressure gauge. After it
warmed up, I was lucky to have 10 lbs. at idle, but it was still
mechanically quiet, no lifter noise, etc. Anyway, I eventually got
around to doing a complete rebuild on it. When I pulled the cam, I found
cracked bearings, some with big pieces missing. So when I brought the
block in to be bored, I had the machinist replace the cam bearings too.
Now I have +40 lbs. at idle and over 60 at 3000 rpm, even after a long
drive on a hot day. Well, that's my story, hopefully yours is just the
gauge.

Don
65 F250-351W
74 F100-351W


had
alot done to the ' 69 360FE in the time I've missed out on the exemplary

knowledge of every body,I had the oil pump changed to a HV pump,added
headders,timing chain and gears,water pump fr. and rear seals,4V carb
and
manifold and the C-6 rebuilt,my problem is after I've gone 25 or 30
miles in
one shot w/I stop the oil pressure drops no change in the sound or way
it
runs,like it did before I replaced the pump,my mechinic suggetsted
either a
new sending unit or a mech.guage.We checked the compression and it's
where
is should be,they checked the crank berrings w/the pan was off.What do I

do?As always thanks up front and I've missed you all. Mikey>>



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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 10:56:04 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Shipping Advice (Wheels)

Jeff Grant said:
> put em on a pallet, strap em down and send them common carrier, we
> like to use central transport, but i'm not sure if they cover it
> direct. who ever you use be sure they go from point a to point b
> direct, i have had stuff to come up missing when a truckline has
> to interline it with another.
> if you know someone that has a business you can ship it to their
> business and possibly get a good discount. we get a 50% to 55% from
> most of the carriers we deal with.
> most of them charge extra for residential stops. be sure you insure
> the wheels.
==

I agree to let a trucking or freight company handle the shipping of wheels.
The cost will most likely be a lot less than the standard mail shippers. I
had two bucket seats and some various parts shipped from southern CA to
Philadelphia, PA and it only cost about $40. The shipment was only taken as
far as the local shipping depot, so I had to go pick it up from there
(about 20 minutes away). I didn't mind that at all. The shipping cost was
actually a gift of my sister (she picked up the seats and had them shipped
from my birthday), but I don't like to waste other people's money either,
so we saved a lot by sending it via a freight hauler. Unfortunately, I now
forget the name of the shipper but the phone book should list several.

- -don

- --
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles


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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 08:16:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Exhaust

James Doty wrote:
> I've got the same basic setup. Two 2.5" in, one 3" out Flowmaster,
> but as you heard it isn't that loud. I wonder if it's because of
> the size of the engine? I have the 351w which is a small block.

Yes, I remember yours having a much nicer tone. Could be the different
headers, the engines, the difference in accoustics between a van and a
pickup. I can live with it anyway.

People shouldn't take me too seriously when I say I am not happy with
something. There are times when my AR tendencies get out of hand.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 10:56:22 -0400
From: David Henderson
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - More 240-300 questions

Brett wrote:
>I also called on a complete 300/T18 $300 rebuilder combo from a '74 F250, but
>it's in Longview, 4 hours away. Would that be the Heavy Duty 300? How do you
>tell?

Brett:

More than likely it is a heavy duty 300, but the only way to tell for sure is
to remove the crank and check to see that it is forged steel. Since it came
out of an F-250, I would feel confident that it is a heavy duty engine,
probably your best bet on a donor engine.

>The double whammy of Austin's building boom and the
>Mexican's buying up all the serviceable trucks and parts and shipping 'em
>south of the border has driven up commercial vehicles and used parts.

Have you checked the bone yards in S.A.?? There are quite a few on the South
Side (especially off of Highway 16, South of Military Drive, heading towards
Jourdanton and Poteet; Pick-N-Pull etc...if you need directions, I can give them
to you) that are very large. Bound to be a few donor engines
there and only 2 1/2 hours from Austin. If 300s are that scarce, you might be
better off getting the one in East Texas and if you do have to travel to
Longview, you get the pleasure of traveling through or near God's Country,
College Station, TX. A veritable paradise on earth!! ;^)

>One other odd thing I noticed off Silv-o-lite's Web page; 240 piston
>compression heights 1.577"-1.585" while 300 piston compression heights
>1.740"-1.780" (taller!). Henry changed the pistons AND the rods?

Not necessarily (or likely). Remember that you are also changing the crank.
The 335 series have similar differences in pistons (351M vs 400) and still
share the same connecting rods. Probably the same case with the 240 and 300.

Good luck with the project and the parts hunting!!

Dave H

- --
_
_| ~~. David Henderson
\, _} DHenders VT.Edu
\( Gig 'em Aggies! '93

Currently at:
Interdepartmental Genetics Program
2010 Litton Reaves Hall
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
Blacksburg, VA 24061
(540)231-4773
(540)231-5014
DHenders VT.Edu
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 08:18:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 5 lug wheels

I am hunting for some different wheels for my truck. I would like
to use the new 33x10.50 BFG All Terrains and my 15x10 wheels are
not going to do it - too wide and too much offset.

Ideally I would like to order 15x8 steel wheels from Stockton Wheel
but I am looking for a less expensive route.

I have seen the spoke style wheels with the trim rings on the late
80's pickups and Broncos in both 7" and 8" width, with and without
the red stripes on the trim rings. I could live with the 8" ones
without the red stripes.

I really like the aluminum wheels on the early 90's trucks. These
are the "Weld" style wheels with the round holes in them. I haven't
found any to measure the width on. Anyone know how wide they are?

Anyone know of any problems using these wheels on a '74 (center hole
or cap diameter, offsets)? Do the newer trucks have longer studs
(lugs) to accomodate aluminum wheels?

If anyone near me has a set of either of these in prime condition
with 4wd center caps for sale or would like to trade for my
Centerline style wheels (made by Modern) with 33x12.50 tires on
them drop me a line. Remember, I am talking half ton (5 lug).


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 17:22:21 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Extraordinary Ford Trucks


> just getting rid of my 83 Mustang minus a few parts. I took the Holley
> electric
> fuel pump (which was given to me) and mounted it under the driver door
> (on the I-beam). I was in a hurry and didn't have time to trace down the
> wiring

Can you put it in series with the existing fuel pump? That would be a
great idea indeed.
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 10:37:42 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power steering pump pully

Don

I too tried to remove the pulley on the pump. No luck.

I had to take mine to a machine shop that had a press.





At 09:38 PM 7/22/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Hey there
>
> I've been at it for over an hour. How do you remove the pulley from
>a power steering pump? It's the round 70's type with the hex in the end
>of the shaft. I've tried it on the truck, off the truck, pipe wrench,
>2lb sledge, heat, more heat..... What's the trick here.... take it to
>the parts house and have them do it.. ;-)
>
>TIA
>
>
>--
>Don Grossman
>duckdon pacific.net
>99 Contour
>63 F-100 4x4
>
>
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>
>

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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 06:59:30 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - vacuum advance (ignition)

A while ago I got advice from several people to use manifold vacuum for my
advance instead of ported vacuum. I tried it and it made my engine run a
bit more "steady" at low speeds, so I left it like that.

But then as the weather (california) was getting warmer, so was my engine.
At 90+ degrees, my engine was continuously at the red line, even while
driving a steady 60 mph on flat ground. I figured my radiator was at fault,
and got a new 4-core one, plus a BIG transmission cooler (I mentioned this
on the list already). This made it better, but still marginal. Yesterday I
bought a Stant heavy duty (high flow) 180 degrees thermostat. Are these any
good?

Then last night I was dreaming about my truck (of course, what else would
one dream about?) and all of a sudden realized that all these heat problems
arized after I changed the vacuum advance. Coincidence?? I am afraid it is
not, if the ignition advances, there is simply more time for the gases to
give off their heat to the engine block. Plus, if the mixture is already
burning before the TDC, the compression and with that the heat generation
is much higher. This does of course facilitate a better combustion, but it
also heats up the block more and puts more stress on the bearings.

Altogether it looks like I'm better off changing it back to ported vacuum.
Any thoughts/comments??

Bas.


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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 07:04:12 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck

At 12:46 AM 7/3/99 EDT, you wrote:
>Wish currently my truck has no trim on it, its a custom and i think all were
>like that, but im not sure,

My bronco is a custom and it has the trim with two-tone (red and white).
Looks pretty good.


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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 10:43:04 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 5 lug wheels

>I have seen the spoke style wheels with the trim rings on the late
>80's pickups and Broncos in both 7" and 8" width, with and without
>the red stripes on the trim rings. I could live with the 8" ones
>without the red stripes.
>
If I'm remembering right those stripes are just tape ... should peel right
off ... We have 1 at home (gotta remember to pick that up this weekend)
I'll doublecheck it this weekend for you. As far as I know there aren't
any issues with using a 96 or older rim on a 96 or older pickup ... for
1/2tons ... they may have changed the backspacing, but I haven't heard
anything about that.

Can anyone tell me how the "hub centric" rims from the 97+ trucks work ?
what would it take to put those on an older truck ? Just curious ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 10:49:40 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - vacuum advance (ignition)

>on the list already). This made it better, but still marginal. Yesterday I
>bought a Stant heavy duty (high flow) 180 degrees thermostat. Are these any
>good?
>
They're okay (only a few bucks right?), my g.f.'s dad recommended Robert
Shaw as being a good long lasting one. I think Autozone carries them.
I've got one in my truck, and my boss has one now too ... what sold me was
when he handed me one that had been in a car for over 2 years and it looked
a little aged, but still in great shape ... then I put it in my truck (that
same one) and ran it for over a year with no problems.

>Then last night I was dreaming about my truck (of course, what else would
>one dream about?) and all of a sudden realized that all these heat problems
>arized after I changed the vacuum advance. Coincidence?? I am afraid it is
>not,

Have you actually checked this out ? Or just usin the theories so far and
testing it later ?

>Altogether it looks like I'm better off changing it back to ported vacuum.
>Any thoughts/comments??
>

If you are in heavy traffic and at or near idle a lot, then I can see where
this would make a difference, but where I'm at runnin at highway speeds
most of the time, I don't think it will really affect things that much,
except maybe comin off the highway ...

What about those thermal switches for the thermostat housing ? Don't those
switch it for you? Probably running manifold when they're cold and ported
when they're warmed up, that way you can generate the heat you need to get
the motor warmed up quicker, then switch to ported to keep things cooled
off ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 10:59:10 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Extraordinary Ford Trucks

I don't think the series thing would work. I believe the gas could be pulled
through the electric pump by the existing fuel pump.

I may be all wet but thats my thoughts.


At 05:22 PM 7/23/99 +0200, you wrote:
>
>> just getting rid of my 83 Mustang minus a few parts. I took the Holley
>> electric
>> fuel pump (which was given to me) and mounted it under the driver door
>> (on the I-beam). I was in a hurry and didn't have time to trace down the
>> wiring
>
>Can you put it in series with the existing fuel pump? That would be a
>great idea indeed.
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 11:14:15 -0600
From: "Berkeley, Dan"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gear ratios - how to

For Calculations - see this page:
www.thegrid.net/thedrivetrainpage/rpmcalc.htm

You can calculate gear ratios, tire diameter and engine RPMs interactively.
Site also has interesting / helpful drive train info.

I already erased the note posted by someone wanting info on different front
/ rear axles . .
But this page should be helpful.

Dan
78 F100
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 10:37:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power steering pump pully

> Hey there
>
> I've been at it for over an hour. How do you remove the pulley from
> a power steering pump? It's the round 70's type with the hex in the end
> of the shaft. I've tried it on the truck, off the truck, pipe wrench,
> 2lb sledge, heat, more heat..... What's the trick here.... take it to
> the parts house and have them do it.. ;-)
>
Parts houses charge up to $10 to do this, I bought a puller set from
Harbor Freight to remove these for $12. Like typical HF stuff, it
works OK for occasional use.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 10:43:54 -0700
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Power steering pump pully

The store I work for does not charge for this. Call around. There is
really no way without the tool...

- -----Original Message-----
From: Pat Brown [mailto:patb sonic.net]
Sent: Friday, July 23, 1999 10:37 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power steering pump pully


> Hey there
>
> I've been at it for over an hour. How do you remove the pulley from
> a power steering pump? It's the round 70's type with the hex in the end
> of the shaft. I've tried it on the truck, off the truck, pipe wrench,
> 2lb sledge, heat, more heat..... What's the trick here.... take it to
> the parts house and have them do it.. ;-)
>
Parts houses charge up to $10 to do this, I bought a puller set from
Harbor Freight to remove these for $12. Like typical HF stuff, it
works OK for occasional use.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 20:35:48 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - vacuum advance (ignition)

> >on the list already). This made it better, but still marginal. Yesterday I
> >bought a Stant heavy duty (high flow) 180 degrees thermostat. Are these any
> >good?
> >
> They're okay (only a few bucks right?), my g.f.'s dad recommended Robert
> Shaw as being a good long lasting one. I think Autozone carries them.

I have never had one break, with "good" I merely meant "higher flow than
others".

> when he handed me one that had been in a car for over 2 years and it looked
> a little aged, but still in great shape ... then I put it in my truck (that
> same one) and ran it for over a year with no problems.

I'd say, as long as they don't corrode there is litle to wear out.

> >Then last night I was dreaming about my truck (of course, what else would
> >one dream about?) and all of a sudden realized that all these heat problems
> >arized after I changed the vacuum advance. Coincidence?? I am afraid it is
> >not,
> Have you actually checked this out ? Or just usin the theories so far and
> testing it later ?
I did not check this out. The weather was also getting warmer, but I
remember from last year (when it was even hotter) that it did not get
hot, at least not on the freeway like it did now.

> >Altogether it looks like I'm better off changing it back to ported vacuum.
> >Any thoughts/comments??
>
> If you are in heavy traffic and at or near idle a lot, then I can see where
> this would make a difference, but where I'm at runnin at highway speeds
> most of the time, I don't think it will really affect things that much,
> except maybe comin off the highway ...

That's what I figured too. Still it was at a constant 210 degrees or
something, too hot.

Actually I also want to look at my temperature gauge. I have another one
which reads direct. Maybe I should install it. It has a 10 degree offset
all through the scale (maybe somebody dropped it or something) but
according to the pan-of-boiling-water test this is pretty linear. At
least that rules out the gauge.

> What about those thermal switches for the thermostat housing ? Don't those
> switch it for you? Probably running manifold when they're cold and ported
> when they're warmed up, that way you can generate the heat you need to get
> the motor warmed up quicker, then switch to ported to keep things cooled
> off ...

That's what they are supposed to do but it looks like mine is broken. It
does not let anything through, hot or cold. Good point, I'll see if I can
get a new one at the same time.

The other thing that worried me a little is that I felt this vibration
through the gas pedal, almost a grinding feeling. It is of course
speculation but maybe the force of the pre-ignition is more significant
than I thought.
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 14:27:17 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - vacuum advance (ignition)

>I have never had one break, with "good" I merely meant "higher flow than
>others".
>
Robert Shaw and Mr. Gasket both market balanced hi-flow thermostats, and
those are the ones I was referring to. I have had them break and get
sticky from corrosion. Break is bad, they will stick closed and move the
rod in and out of a hole that is supposed to be the anchor to open the
thermostat.


>I'd say, as long as they don't corrode there is litle to wear out.
>
I think the phrase one of my friends found in a book was "a thermostat is
mechanical, nothing mechanical is perfect (except maybe a 427 Cobra SC)."
The point was it can break, it may be a simple mechanism but there's still
any number of things that can go wrong with it, and usually do.

>I did not check this out. The weather was also getting warmer, but I
>remember from last year (when it was even hotter) that it did not get
>hot, at least not on the freeway like it did now.
>
What all have you changed since last year ? Anything that increases power
will increase the heat under the hood. What else have you changed ?


>That's what I figured too. Still it was at a constant 210 degrees or
>something, too hot.
>
Wow, what temp did you put in ? I thought you said 180, if its gettin
clear up to 210 I would guess a) the thermostat's not good or b) you have
other issues ... you can get over 212 (boiling point for water) as long as
you have pressure in the system without boiling, but the closer to 200 you
can keep it the safer you'll be.

>Actually I also want to look at my temperature gauge. I have another one
>which reads direct. Maybe I should install it. It has a 10 degree offset
>all through the scale (maybe somebody dropped it or something) but
>according to the pan-of-boiling-water test this is pretty linear. At
>least that rules out the gauge.
>
If you've "calibrated" your temp gauge you should be able to tell exactly
how its running, is it an elec. gauge or a "mechanical" one ? the
mechanical ones are really nice, especially since they work after the motor
is shut off, you can see how much temp you are really gaining and if the
motor is warm or cold when you start it. My truck showed overheating until
I installed a mech. gauge, then guess what? it never got over 170 except
sitting at a stop light for 10+minutes when it would "creep" very slowly to
175 ... then drop down as soon as I touched the gas. Quite a bit better
than the H that the elec. gauge showed when I started out from a stop-light.

>> What about those thermal switches for the thermostat housing ? Don't those
>> switch it for you? Probably running manifold when they're cold and ported
>> when they're warmed up, that way you can generate the heat you need to get
>> the motor warmed up quicker, then switch to ported to keep things cooled
>> off ...
>
>That's what they are supposed to do but it looks like mine is broken. It
>does not let anything through, hot or cold. Good point, I'll see if I can
>get a new one at the same time.
>
Lemme know how hard those are to find and get working, we have a car that's
overheating and this may be a good fix for it, especially with the weather
around here changing so much from one season to the next.

>The other thing that worried me a little is that I felt this vibration
>through the gas pedal, almost a grinding feeling. It is of course
>speculation but maybe the force of the pre-ignition is more significant
>than I thought.

You should be able to hear any pinging or knocking, if you feel it before
you hear it, its probably something else, and if it was knocking enough for
you to feel it, I would think you would have some more serious problems
than running a bit warm ... unless your motor is trying to vapor lock or
sieze up because of the heat...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 13:41:30 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power steering pump pully

> > Hey there
> >
> > I've been at it for over an hour. How do you remove the pulley from
> > a power steering pump? It's the round 70's type with the hex in the end
> > of the shaft. I've tried it on the truck, off the truck, pipe wrench,
> > 2lb sledge, heat, more heat..... What's the trick here.... take it to
> > the parts house and have them do it.. ;-)
...........
> Parts houses charge up to $10 to do this, I bought a puller set from
> Harbor Freight to remove these for $12. Like typical HF stuff, it
> works OK for occasional use.
> --
> Pat Brown
.........

I haven't done a p/s pump pulley but I've done a few a/c pulleys and
what works is...

1) penetrating oil
2) small 3 jaw wheel puller
3) smack with hammer while puller is in place and under tension

BTW:) I wasn't to happy with the 24" bolt cutters that I bought from Harbor
Freight because they broke the first time I tried to use them cutting a
5/16" chain. I thought they should have handled it, but I should have
expected that from a $17 pair of cutters. OTOH, I'm going to like the $20
two wheel hand cart (rated for 600 lbs) for hauling my toolbox around the
salvage yards.

Danger



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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 16:17:48 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cap and rotor interchangeability

Bill writes:
> Has anyone tried to use the upper part of a 302 Duraspark
> distributor on a lower part 352 FT distributor
> Was I silly now ????????... have never compared them...

Azie said:
> I personally haven't done this, but I'm led to believe that all
> the early V8 Fords use the same diameter base, so it
> should work. I've seen some discussion on this list previously
> about this, but can't remember it.

I have run a "conventional" cap + rotor in a Duraspark II
dist without any problems, and have run a Duraspark II
adapter piece, cap, and rotor on a 360 (FE) as well ...

I am not absolutely certain that they are all interchangeable
but at least the ones I have encountered are, which include
the 360 FE, 289, 302, 351W, 351M, 400 ... everything from
the distributor base on up seems to work no matter what
distributor it is sitting on.



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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 15:27:25 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cap and rotor interchangeability

At 03:17 PM 7/23/99 , you wrote:
>Bill writes:
>> Has anyone tried to use the upper part of a 302 Duraspark
>> distributor on a lower part 352 FT distributor
>> Was I silly now ????????... have never compared them...
>
>I have run a "conventional" cap + rotor in a Duraspark II
>dist without any problems, and have run a Duraspark II
>adapter piece, cap, and rotor on a 360 (FE) as well ...
>
>I am not absolutely certain that they are all interchangeable
>but at least the ones I have encountered are, which include
>the 360 FE, 289, 302, 351W, 351M, 400 ... everything from
>the distributor base on up seems to work no matter what
>distributor it is sitting on.
>
I think what the question was, was can he take the guts out of the dist.
base and put them in an FE dist. The caps will work no problem, its the
guts that are the issue ...


Just my 2cents

wish

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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 16:45:16 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Matching Gears (More)

In a message dated 7/21/99 9:33:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
SHill48337 aol.com writes:


m_hoolie yahoo.com writes:


for the front. Will a 3:50 and a 3.23 work together?
Michael >>
Not for long. It would work on soft ground. But, on pavement with the
front
engaged it would cause extreme stress on all of the drive line components.
It's hard to tell what would go first.
>>
To put it in perspective look at it this way: With a 3.23 and 3.50 set up at
about 12 turns (revolutions) of the wheels the timing of the wheels are off a
full revolution. Meaning for approximately every 12 revolutions of the tires
they are being drug one full revolution.

I have a factory installed 4.10 in the rear and 4.09 in the front. With
there being only one one hundredth difference in the ratios, not seven-tenths
as you propose, I still have a hard time every now and then taking it out of
4WD because the drive line is in a bind from running on hard ground. If I
make a sharp turn in 4WD on pavement slowly you can hear the drive shafts
wind up and then suddenly unwind by chirping the tires both front and rear.
For the general health of your truck the tires front and rear and the gear
boxed should be as close as possible to the same.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 16:09:41 -0500
From: David Harris
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 76 F100

I have a Ford F-100 (1976) Super Cab. I had never seen one before I bought
this one. Does anyone out there know how many were made that year? I have
been watching the roads and have still not seen one.
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 16:15:14 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 76 F100

>I have a Ford F-100 (1976) Super Cab. I had never seen one before I bought
>this one. Does anyone out there know how many were made that year? I have
>been watching the roads and have still not seen one.

Seems like 74 was the first year for it ... there is a lawn company on the
other side of town, I think they bought all the 78-9's as they are
everywhere with those things, I think they've got some older ones too ...


Just my 2cents

wish

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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 16:11:27 -0700
From: Al Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Trailer Harness

Digesters: Although not an early Ford, I have a 97 F350 Dually that I
tow my trailered 74 Bronco with. I have the factory wiring harness and
six plug female outlet on the truck. I only get brakes and turns in this
outlet. No running lights. Also the small markers on the truck do not
light up either. This harness plugs directly into the existing Ford
wires. It appears that the wiring for the outlet has not been modified
from factory. The fuse panel has a place for "trailer". This fuse is
good and has power to it.

Does anybody have any ideas? Is this system fused elsewhere? Am I SOL?

Al
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 15:46:25 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Flywheel & Presure Plate Heat Cracks

First of all, I apologize for the long post (induced by Anheuser Busch),
but...

I was quite surprised today when I removed the T-18, bellhousing and
clutch assembly on my 69 F250 with 8,000 miles on new parts. The clutch was
down to the rivets with groves carved into the flywheel and pressure plate
(I expected this), and lots of nasty looking heat cracks in the thick steel
of the flywheel & pressure plate (this I didn't expect).

I've just purchased a new...

1) 390 flywheel (from local Ford dealer)
2) Centerforce dual friction clutch with pressure plate & throwout bearing
(http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.performanceintl.com/default.htm)
3) Lakewood Blowproof bellhousing (http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jegs.com/)
4) pilot bearing (not a stock bushing)
5) motor mounts
6) transmission mounts

... and I'm very concerned about just how long this setup will last (with
aggressive use), and will the Lakewood housing provide better protection
then the FoMoCo housing if (or when) the flywheel should scatter at high
RPM's?

I'm also rather curious as to where the weak point in the drive train
will be after I install the new clutch. If (or when) something fails under
extreme use, will it be...

1) my first 390 4bbl engine rebuild
2) T-18 which was rebuilt by a reputable local shop
3) solid non-greasable U-joints
4) driveline or splines
5) 3.55 (Powerloc Posi?) dif which was recently rebuilt
6) full floating axles
7) rear wheel bearings
8) motor mount
9) trans mount

... It's my guess that the next failure will occur in the clutch plates
of the rear dif (#5) , as it was a standard rebuild.

FYI:) Although I've spent countless hours and mega $'s on this truck (which
is as ugly as the day I bought it for $225), I still consider it a practice
exercise for the "real deal" which will be a 73-79 F-series 4x4 with custom
built 460 (along with all items being hand picked, and frame off
restoration... of course). I've been gathering tools, knowledge (saving
related posts), and a complete 460 (with AC brackets & pulley) just fell
into my hands the other day, but I must work out a configuration that will
withstand lots of HP and mega torque before I even think about beginning
construction of my dream truck.

BTW:) I wouldn't have ever considered the danger of a flywheel & pressure
plate scattering at high RPM's until today when I seen the heat cracks after
8,000 miles of (aggressive) use.


Danger



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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 14:51:21 PDT
From: "MARTY COLMAN"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 600 or 750cfm - which is better?

I have an opportunity to trade my stinkin' Holley (650 spreadbore) for an
Edelbrock Performer. I can get either a 600 cfm or a 750 cfm (both have
electric choke and are on running motors), which would you recommend for me?
I'll be switching from a 2v to this carb. I'm looking for more power, but
also better economy and driveability. I like the Edelbrock design and have
heard many good things about them.

It will be going onto a 73 F100 2wd with a stock 390, 4spd and 3.55 gears.
It is my daily driver (3 miles to work). It gets driven sensibly, seldom
past 4000rpm. At present I'm leaning more toward the 600 cfm, many of you
have that size on your motors and appear to like them. I've heard lots
about problems with having too much carb. Any pro's or con's of either
carb?

Thanks for your input.

Marty


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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 18:22:25 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 428 cam

>The NHRA 428CJ blueprint hydraulic-lifter cam >442 lbs FT 4000 RPM >407HP 5500 RPM etc..

Had one of these in a 390 years ago myself.I know Ford discontinued
the CJ cam years ago,but I didn't know there was a aftermarket
version.Who makes it?
I was thinking my 428 could use more cam (has RV grind now) and I
bet the CJ cam would wake it up nicely.

>I've been at it for over an hour. How do you remove the pulley from
>a power steering pump?

>It takes a special puller to grab hold of the small lip around the >shaft andpull it off.

Speaking of pullers I just bought a K-D puller-installer to do the pump
on my 91 Explorer.(Pulley has to come off before removing pump,a real
PIA).The puller is a quality unit that works well.Highly recommended
The puller was about $50.
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 18:43:27 -0500
From: "Christeen Bradley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Alt light

I have a funny kind of problem. When I started my truck, the alt light goes
out and seems to be charging. But when the truck warms up, the alt light
pops on and the amp gauge confirms that it's stopped charging. The only
thing I've done recently is change the voltage regulator. I also get a
terrible whine in my speakers when the headlights are on, but when the
alternator stops charging, the whine stops too! All and any help welcome.
Thanks in advance!

Scott
1966 F-100 351C

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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 18:52:45 -0700
From: Don or Bub
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Exhaust

i got a 302 with some glass packs. and believe you a me, my bitch is
loud.

bubba

draco pacifier.com wrote:
>
> James Doty wrote:
> > I've got the same basic setup. Two 2.5" in, one 3" out Flowmaster,
> > but as you heard it isn't that loud. I wonder if it's because of
> > the size of the engine? I have the 351w which is a small block.
>
> Yes, I remember yours having a much nicer tone. Could be the different
> headers, the engines, the difference in accoustics between a van and a
> pickup. I can live with it anyway.
>
> People shouldn't take me too seriously when I say I am not happy with
> something. There are times when my AR tendencies get out of hand.
>
> Mark in Southwest Washington
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
> --
> '74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
>
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 18:48:16 -0700
From: Eric
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 600 or 750 cfm

My 66 Merc has a similar setup - 390, NP435, and 3.54. I tossed a worn
out Holley 1850 (600 cfm) for a free 4779 dp 750 cfm and found it was all
wrong for my requirements. Soggy bottom end, poor midrange and high fuel
consumption. I put together a Fairlane GT 600 cfm carb, model 4150, jetted
68-72 and found it worked perfectly, except for leaks and bits of rubber in
the jets. A restorer wanted it, so I got an AFB 625 cfm with electric
choke. The AFB works very well, doesn't leak, and is very simple to work
on. However, I got the best all-around performance from the "small" Holley,
in part I think because it had a secondary metering block instead of the
usual plate.
Remember that many big FEs were built with a 480(?)cfm Holley, so the 600
is quite a step up, and probably your best choice.

Eric

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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 21:49:23 EDT
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 600 or 750cfm - which is better?

I've always been partial to Holley's myself, but each have their own.
Personally I think you'd be better off with the 600 especially if it has
vacuum operated secondaries. These are much easier to set up and the engine
determines how much it gets, especially in a daily driver where the motor is
relatively stock. Ive got a 600 on my '79 400M and it works well. Years ago I
had one on a modified 302 and it was an outstanding combo. I think you'll
like it. Doing the math the motor would need about a 550 so the 600 is still
a good choice.

George


In a message dated 7/23/99 6:00:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
colman76 hotmail.com writes:


I have an opportunity to trade my stinkin' Holley (650 spreadbore) for an
Edelbrock Performer. I can get either a 600 cfm or a 750 cfm (both have
electric choke and are on running motors), which would you recommend for me?
I'll be switching from a 2v to this carb. I'm looking for more power, but
also better economy and driveability. I like the Edelbrock design and have
heard many good things about them.

It will be going onto a 73 F100 2wd with a stock 390, 4spd and 3.55 gears.
It is my daily driver (3 miles to work). It gets driven sensibly, seldom
past 4000rpm. At present I'm leaning more toward the 600 cfm, many of you
have that size on your motors and appear to like them. I've heard lots
about problems with having too much carb. Any pro's or con's of either
carb?

Thanks for your input.

Marty

>>
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Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 18:58:36 -0700
From: Eric
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Flywheel and pressure plate heat cracks

Mine's similar to Danger's, and these things broke: the forward driveshaft....


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