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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #247
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61-79-list-digest Thursday, July 15 1999 Volume 03 : Number 247



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Hard Shiftin'
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - stuck dist./bloody knuckles
FTE 61-79 - fusible links
FTE 61-79 - First start after a rebuild ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - First start after a rebuild ?
FTE 61-79 - distributor removal
Re: FTE 61-79 - First start after a rebuild ?
FTE 61-79 - Grinding downshift
FTE 61-79 - VIN decode
Re: FTE 61-79 - First start after a rebuild ?
FTE 61-79 - Rear axle
FTE 61-79 - Panels and visors
FTE 61-79 - 9" rear end, what to check on
FTE 61-79 - Silicone Brake fluid?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 534 engine
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 534 engine
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 motor mount brackets for a 79
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78-79 Bronco prices ...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Extaordinary Ford Trucks !
Re: FTE 61-79 - Extaordinary Ford Trucks !
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Availability
FTE 61-79 - re- brakes/turn signals
FTE 61-79 - transmission question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 534 engine
Re: FTE 61-79 - VIN decode
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 motor mount brackets for a 79
Re: FTE 61-79 - Silicone Brake fluid?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear end, what to check on
FTE 61-79 - Wooo Hoooo!!!, another reason 78's Bronco's RULE!!!!
FTE 61-79 - Submerged
Re: FTE 61-79 - Submerged
FTE 61-79 - RE: Dist stuck
RE: FTE 61-79 - Submerged
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Dist stuck
Re: FTE 61-79 - Submerged
Re: FTE 61-79 - Submerged
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Dist stuck
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - Extaordinary Ford Trucks !
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems
FTE 61-79 - Help with "tight" power steering on '69
Re: FTE 61-79 - Extaordinary Ford Trucks !
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78-79 Bronco prices ...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems
RE: FTE 61-79 - fusible links
RE: FTE 61-79 - stuck dist./bloody knuckles

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 05:17:45 -0700
From: "Dan Duke"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hard Shiftin'

>From: "J.S.H."
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hard Shiftin'

>My 4 spd. shifts smooth as butter,except for when
>downshifting from 4th to 3rd.It won't go without grinding.
>Clutch?Syncros?(It's not operator error:)

What year is your truck? Is your tranny a T-18?

Dan Duke
'70 F-250




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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:18:12 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems

>ok i dont know why it only posted half of it, but, heres the rest I tried to
>start it after the lights came on, clicked a few times, stopped, lights went
>bye bye, hit the dash in frustration, lights came back on, tried to start it
>again, bye bye lights, hit it again, lights back on, did this several times,
>lights also came on when i fiddled with the key in the switch. im starting
>to consider a rewiring project, i figure it cant get any more screwed up...
>
Hmmm...have you tried hooking up a remote starter to take the ignition
switch out of the equation then ? Basically you'll just short across the
solenoid terminals (the big ones) and if the starter spins the motor over
then you know the problem is between the solenoid and the switch .... if
you're bangin the dash and causing things to work again, I'd start hunting
for loose wires and shorts ... when you say lights I'm assuming you mean
the ones on the dash, not the headlights ?? Havin things like headlights
and blower motors (fans) and interior lights on can all make things hard to
start ... I've actually started a car by turning all this stuff off! I
know the switches aren't supposed to work that way, but the little D*dge did...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:30:39 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - stuck dist./bloody knuckles

>subject here. I found my marks after looking and looking. I painted a dot
>on "0". Hooked everything up and started the engine. The timing light dial
>was on zero. I started turning the dial and when the arrow was lined up
>with "0" on the rotor, the dial on the light said 45. And this was on the
>ATC side. This means my timing is 45 degrees ATC right?

I would guess this is BTDC, or before ... if you're firing after youd be
lucky to get more than 1 or 2 rpm's ... at 0 a 5.0 mustang can only pull
about 3,000 revs before it falters out ... I had a friend who did this
because he didn't know you didn't want 0.

>I then
>disconnected the vac adv line and plugged the end up and tried it again but
>nothing changed.

that's not a good sign, however its possible that you are running "ported"
vacuum which means you should have very little vacuum or advance at an
idle, but touch the gas and it should jump a bit.

> I don't know for sure what my timing should be but I knew
>right away this was way too much. I was all happy thinking I was on to
>something. My advance wasn't stuck or anything because a hooked up a hose
>to it and sucked on it and the plate inside moved fine. So I got out the
>wrench and to my suprise the hold down on the dist was already loose. Why?


Well if you ever do get that thing loose, a good way to tune it might be
the vacuum method, that way you can take into account any of the wear on
the cam or changes that might not be stock ... some basic instructions on
this can be found at :

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Tech/Tuneup/tune.html

To get the distributor loose you might try soaking the dist with some
penetrating oil and slowly working it loose ... don't start the truck with
that penetrating stuff still in the oilpan though as bad things can happen ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 09:44:43 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - fusible links

> So far I have narrowed it down to
> some where under the dash (connector
> or ignition switch) but is there a fuse or
> fusible link for just the coil power in the
> run position?

Many of these fusible links on the Fords I
have are at the starter relay solenoid.
This is the position of that particular fusible
link in my '79 Bronco ...

I don't know for sure, but I don't think there
is a fusible link at the ignition switch ...

The problem also could be caused
by a burnt-free or rusted-free wire.



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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:48:51 -0500
From: donb ficom.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - First start after a rebuild ?

Okay, I am almost done with my 1st engine rebuild. When I get ready to TRY
and start it for the 1st time, I was going to disconnect the coil wire and
just let it crank for awhile to get the oil flowing....is this a good idea ?
Once started...I am supposed to keep idle around 2000 ? any help is
appreciated....
BTW, the engine is a 1971 400 that I am putting in a 79 F-150. I have had
all the parts cleaned machined etc, put in a Comp Cams 282H cam, Edelbrock
True Roller Chain, Edelbrock Performer 400 manifold, Edelbrock 600 CFM
carb, put in a 79 distributor so it is electronic ignition.......and of
course all the appropriate chrome....(valve covers, dipstick etc...) Now I
just sure hope it runs

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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:53:28 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - First start after a rebuild ?

>Okay, I am almost done with my 1st engine rebuild. When I get ready to TRY
>and start it for the 1st time, I was going to disconnect the coil wire and
>just let it crank for awhile to get the oil flowing....is this a good idea ?

A better choice might be to use a drill with a socket on the end of it, it
may take a while to fill everything , but you'll be sure you're not hurtin
the motor when you try and start it then. Just check the direction of
rotation based on the way the dist. turns. I was able to use a cordless
until it started to actually get some pressure, then I had to go to one
with a touch more power ...

>Once started...I am supposed to keep idle around 2000 ?

You should keep the idle up, and high for a preset amount of time ... seems
like someone might have this info on the ford-trucks.com website ...


>BTW, the engine is a 1971 400 that I am putting in a 79 F-150. I have had
>all the parts cleaned machined etc, put in a Comp Cams 282H cam, Edelbrock
>True Roller Chain, Edelbrock Performer 400 manifold, Edelbrock 600 CFM
>carb, put in a 79 distributor so it is electronic ignition.......and of
>course all the appropriate chrome....(valve covers, dipstick etc...) Now I
>just sure hope it runs
>

Just be patient with it, sounds like you've got a heck of a motor built
there ... did you have it balanced ? When doing the final tune in a few
days/weeks you might consider using a vacuum gauge to tune it since you've
changed the cam and intake ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 09:59:33 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - distributor removal

> Because there is no way the g# d #
> thing would ever turn, no matter what
> happened. There is a small notch that
> sticks out from the dist on the drivers
> side, it already has hammer marks all
> over it. I hit it with a hammer for a while
> and I couldnt get it to budge. I even tried
> prying with a bar between it and the intake.

> How should I get the dist loose?

Take a straight pry bar and line it up to some kind
of notch or ledge-like piece on the very outside of
the housing ... then whack on the other end of the
pry bar in such a way that the force transmitted
down the pry bar attempts to rotate the distributor
housing in the hole. Do not beat on it too hard,
and do not pry up from under the distributor with
vengeful force, as this may very well destroy your
distributor (voice of experience here ...)

Eventually, with enough persistence, the corrosion
does give way, and you will be able to take the
dist out once it starts turning relatively easily.

Once you get it out, apply a liberal coating of
thick grease all over the aluminum parts that come
in contact with the cast iron bolck so that there
is less of a chance that you'l have to do this kind
of thing again.


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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 09:07:37 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - First start after a rebuild ?

Bill Ballinger wrote a good article that can be found at the FTE web
site under the tech section. Try
http:/www.ford-trucks.com/articles/engingbreakin.html
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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 10:18:02 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Grinding downshift

J.H.S. writes: >>My 4 spd. shifts smooth as butter,except for when
downshifting from 4th to 3rd.It won't go without grinding.
Clutch?Syncros?(It's not operator error:)

Either a slightly dragging clutch or 3-4 Syncro, and my bet goes with the
syncro.. This is one of the more common tell-tell signs of excess wear on it.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 10:25:54 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - VIN decode

Couple of you guys helped me out in deciphering my VIN code, but needed more
info on my wifes newly acquired toy and here it is:

VIN: F10GLC29290 (already deciphered)

WB: 117"
Color: T
Body: F
Trans: F
Axle: 12J
GVW: 4600

I do know it is a 1976 F100 Flareside - 302 - NP435(?) 4 sp - red in color -
power steering - no power brakes. I want to know if the codes all check out as
original. What I got is what it was when it left the factory.

Thanks in advance.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:30:31 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - First start after a rebuild ?

> Okay, I am almost done with my 1st engine rebuild. When I get ready to TRY
> and start it for the 1st time, I was going to disconnect the coil wire and
> just let it crank for awhile to get the oil flowing....is this a good idea
?

I would primer the engine with oil by spinning the oil pump hex shaft
with a drill & bit before starting a brand new engine. If I remember
correctly, a high speed reverse drill works best.

> Now I
> just sure hope it runs

Amen


Danger



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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 10:33:55 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle

Jeff writes: >>Does anybody have a left axle for a 9" rear end
hanging around or lying around that I could get
my hands on soon? A new axle would cost around
$250.

Go to your favorite salvage yard and try to purchase a used axle for your
specific truck. There should be several years of interchangeability, and it
shouldn't cost over $50.00, even in Ca.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 11:26:06 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Panels and visors

Someone asked about the door panels and the sun visors in a Green '77 that I'm
parting out the cab on.

The visors are missing. I'm sure they were on the truck when I began
disassembling it, but now they are missing and I can't find them anyplace in my
shop. I nearly know I took them off and put them someplace, but for the life of
me I can't find them. Maybe someday I'll run across them, and if so, then I'll
post them.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:28:16 -0700
From: "Jeff Carver"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear end, what to check on

Made a lot of calls yesterday trying to find a
left and right axle shaft for the '64 F100 CrewCab.

Found a left axle for $50 at one place.
Found a left and right for $75 each or $175 for
the whole rear end at another.
Another place wanted $100 each axle, yikes!

Have the messed up shaft and will go look at the
rear end this afternoon. They'll extract the axles
so I can check it out.

What should I look for in a rear end to indicate
that it's bad?

How do I tell the difference between various
versions of the rear end? I'll have the left
shaft with me for comparison. Would other varieties
of rear ends have different axles, so I could use
that as an indicator?

Pmail please, as I'll head out before the digest
reaches me.

The bearing slid on the shaft about an inch,
indicating the shaft diameter is undersize due
to overweight condition. The right side bearing
stayed in place, but . . . . .

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab




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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:40:38 -0700
From: "Jeff Carver"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Silicone Brake fluid?

Since my brake system is almost being replaced
(front cylinders, steel and rubber lines)
should I go ahead and use silicone fluid?

If EVERYTHING was new, I'd not even question it,
and just go silicone. But since the rear cylinders
and master are used, am I asking for trouble?

The master (power BTW) was rebuilt last year.
It came from a B**ck Electra! That's what the
coach house put in there in '64 since the original
owner wanted power brakes.

Will introduction of silicone into components that
have seen service with conventional fluid create
a bad situation?

Again, pmail so I can pass on any changes to the
shop this afternoon. I'll be rear end looking
before the digest is available for me.

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab



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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 15:10:22 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 534 engine

>Along these lines, I am an on call wildland hand crew firefighter. We
>ride a bus that is powered by a 9.0 L International V8 diesel,
>non-turbo. It is an 84. It has two horsepower ratings, 160 and 180.
>This is the 160. The diesel in my pickup is an 85 6.9 L also by

Geeze, that's in the ballpark of what my 351 generates. I thought a 534
would be a 400-500hp monster.

>International, and its ratings are 145 and 175. Mine is the 175. It is
>also much smaller than the 9 liter but it probably uses more fuel, since
>it spews a lot more black smoke when you push it. It probably doesn't
>last as long, either.

If you make a 9 liter diesel that only generates 160hp it can probably last
millions of miles if well built and maintained. Then of course if you're a
wildland fire fighter it probably has a pretty rough life ;)

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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 15:36:17 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 534 engine

>> I have seen the 534 engine. It is a huge beast. It probably weighs
double
>> a 460. It has the combustion chamber in the cylinder, similar to the
>> 348-409 Chevy. It is very heavy-duty engine, destined for large 700
series
>> and bigger trucks. I cannot see any reason to try to adapt this monster
>> into a smaller F-series p.u.

It would probably take my bronco over its GVWR just like that :)

I love things that are big and bulky. That's also why I like american
60s/70s vehicles so much. Then again it sounds like a 460 will probably go
faster if you're not hauling tens of thousands of pounds..

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Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 18:24:55 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 motor mount brackets for a 79

>>I am looking for a set of motor mount brackets or stands to put a 460 into
>>a 1979 3/4 ton pickup. I have a set of stands for a 400 I could trade.

I thought the mounts for the 400 and 460 were the same..??

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Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 18:39:11 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78-79 Bronco prices ...

>> As some of you may know, I've been looking for a '78-79 Bronco over
>the
>>past few months. I've found one that I really like and seems decent, but I
>>just want to know if the price is right. It's a '79 Bronco Ranger XLT.
>>Rebuilt 351/C6.
>> The truck had 141,000 on it and the motor had only about 40K on the
>> rebuild. The guy
>>wants $6000 firm...I think it's a little high with the lack of interior and
>>needed body work. I figure you are the experts, so what would something
>>like this go for...or what do trucks like this bring. I'm located in Mass,
>>just south of boston if that makes any difference.

I paid $2500 for my '78 bronco custom. It had a rebuilt (or low mileage,
not sure) 351M and C6 transmission (the latter seems to have been put in
with the engine). Body has hardly any rust, nice paint, 94k miles, some of
the stuff in it had been in there for a long long time though, overtime I
put quite a bit of time/money in it. It had a nice carpet; seats are kind
of torn up though. But I just sit on them, don't care too much what they
look like.

The XLT has a bit more luxury, A/C and perhaps a limited slip in the back
(?). Here in CA the emissions stuff is driving the prices up, you have to
have a good motor or you're in for a lot of headaches. I would say you
offer $3000 firm and see what they say. BTW after I started looking it only
took me 4 days to find this one, I must have been really lucky..

>I got mine locally here in northeastern Pennsylvania from
>a private owner ... virtually rust-free, strong 351M engine,
>4 speed manual transmission (T-18), NP205 transfer case.
>needed a rear main seal and a good cleaning of the bell
>housing and flywheel, new clutch disc and pressure plate;
>'bout 80k miles, redone interior, and factory new tailgate.
>It cost me $700.

Well that's a real bargain. Especially with CA smog laws you don't get much
for $700 unless it is more than 25 years old. How's that stuff in
pennsylvania?

Bas.


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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 06:38:45 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Extaordinary Ford Trucks !

>After installing a new distributor a friend of mine ran his 79 E-350 460 10
>miles round trip to an appointment without the oil pump shaft in place.
>Discovered the problem when he got back home and engine lost power. Pump
>shaft installed and no discernible damage.

Wow he did not have an oil pressure gauge?? I guess an old motor can run
w/o oil much longer because all the clearances are bigger.

They had this thing on the radio where people could call in and guess how
far you could drive w/o oil, and then they had somebody actually drain the
oil and drive a car until it stopped. I think it is kinda sick to ruin a
good engine just like that, but anyway they made it about 4 miles. You can
tell it was not a ford!

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 06:33:01 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Extaordinary Ford Trucks !

>At one time my truck was worth about $20,000. How can a 79 F150 daily driver
>be worth so much? Easy: It was loaded down with 10 brand new Macintosh
>systems!!

Someone once told me my truck would never get stolen, even with a million
dollar in it they would break it open but still leave the truck. Only if
they were a million singles they'd take the truck too :) .. I wish that was
true but I am afraid it is not. It is for this reason that I don't do too
much to make it look fancy, I just make sure the mechanics are in excellent
shape. Then again I of course make sure it does not get any worse either.

Anyway, has anyone here ever had a 20+ year old ford truck stolen?

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 06:47:10 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Availability

>The 352 was used 65-67, the 360/390 was used 68-76. In 77, the 351M/400
>replaced the FEs due to emissions regulations.

Each time I read or hear those words "emissions regulations" I get a
headache :(


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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:51:58 -0700
From: sparky mail.island.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re- brakes/turn signals

>Sparky,
>
>When you did your conversion, didn't you say you cut the new hole below the
>seperator? This would make the new light shine behind the reflector, which
>is not a problem, but how do you keep the new light from shining out the
>backup light lense? A white light to the rear except when going backwards is
>ticketable in Texas.
>
>- -- John
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com
>1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>Dearborn iron rules!!!!

To tell you the truth I never even gave it a second thought. I knew the
light would not directly shine out the reverse light white lense so I never
worried about it. I must check it out tonight to see how bright it is. It
wont be very bright I am sure and will only be on when the turn signals are
on, but that will probably still be an offence in some places. I am not
aware of such a law here but I want a "universally legal conversion" :) In
case I ever decide to move to a different province.
I can see I might have some more "adjusting" to do. Maybe I will paint the
reverse lense red and finally add those big reverse lights that have been
sitting in my garage for a year or so :)
Or I could always epoxy another separator below the new lightbulb.....
hhhhmmmmmmm...... I could just cut a slot in the rear of the light asembly
and insert a piece of stiff plastic to block off the white lense area.
Any ideas?

Sparky
73 F250
4x4 390FE (presently a conversion test bed) {:^)

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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 12:00:15 EDT
From: "Andrew Conyers"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - transmission question

Anyone know how to determine what kind of transmission I have?

My truck (79 1/2 ton 4x4) has a 300 I6, with 3spd auto, can this be a c5 or
c6. Has anyone swapped for a 4spd Bulldog Standard tranny? ALso has anyone
found one of these with either a 2 or 4 barrel carb? I know Clifford
performance has new intakes for either application.

Thanks

Andy



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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 11:09:16 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 534 engine

>Geeze, that's in the ballpark of what my 351 generates. I thought a 534
>would be a 400-500hp monster.
>
>If you make a 9 liter diesel that only generates 160hp it can probably last
>millions of miles if well built and maintained. Then of course if you're a
>wildland fire fighter it probably has a pretty rough life ;)
>
Uhm ... ever seen the torque on these beasts ? Its a touch over what your
351 generates ... depending on the type of application of the equipment it
is rated MUCH different also. Tractors are rated by their sustainable
horsepower ... that is the motor must be able to maintain this hp for a
certain period of time (like 8 hours or something) ... its kind of a
different can of worms than the peak that your 351 advertises and MIGHT hit
occasionally.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 16:26:19 +0000 (GMT)
From: rich may
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - VIN decode

Azie, I believe this is your truck:

results for VIN#: F10GLC29290

Model Year: 76
Series: F100 - 4x2 Pickup
Engine: 8 Cyl, 302ci (5.0L) 2bbl
Assembly Plant: Michigan Truck
Transmission: 4 spd, Manual, Warner T18
Front Axle: w/P.S.
Rear Axle: 3.00 2900lb Ford


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 09:32:26 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 motor mount brackets for a 79

Nope, 2 different blocks, tho' the bellhousing bolt pattern is the same.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bas van der Veer
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, July 15, 1999 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 motor mount brackets for a 79


>>>I am looking for a set of motor mount brackets or stands to put a 460
into
>>>a 1979 3/4 ton pickup. I have a set of stands for a 400 I could trade.
>
>I thought the mounts for the 400 and 460 were the same..??



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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 21:25:53 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Silicone Brake fluid?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Carver


>Since my brake system is almost being replaced
>(front cylinders, steel and rubber lines)
>should I go ahead and use silicone fluid?
snip

The biggest concern with silicone fluid is that unlike petroleum based fluid
it does not absorb water. This is good for braking, bad for brakes. Water
in the fluid lowers the boiling point, which means fade. But with silicone
fluid the water will not be in suspension, and that means it's going to
cause a lot of rust and corrosion. Now if you plan on changing your fluid as
often as a race car, airplane, military vehicle..i.e. after every race, as
required by the FAA, or tightly controlled Military lube order than DOT5
fluid would be the deal. For me way to much work.. OTOH if you are having
brake fade that has been found to be caused by the boiling of FRESH, CLEAN,
petroleum based fluid during hard braking,, go for it.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
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Home of the BB decal
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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 21:36:05 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear end, what to check on

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Carver
To: Ford Trucks
Date: Thursday, July 15, 1999 7:34 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear end, what to check on


>Made a lot of calls yesterday trying to find a
>left and right axle shaft for the '64 F100 CrewCab.
>
>Found
snip
>They'll extract the axles
>so I can check it out.
>
>What should I look for in a rear end to indicate
>that it's bad?

Splines that are not well defined, sharpe well, ummm, spline looking :-) If
they apear rounded, or flat...I'd pass. Check the axle before they pull it
if ya can.. is it leaking oil passed the seal? spin it in the housing.. is
the flange bent?
If the axle is out. ask them to remove the bearing, check the seal surface
REAL well. This the number one reason most people have to replace axle
shafts, if it groved you can have it sleaved, but I perfer to go with a new
axle. If you are looking at the housing it self, see if there are
indications that the bearing has spun in the housing end (very common in 9"
axles) are the housing ends bent? look at the axles that came from the
housing,, are there any shiney rings around the axle shaft it self? if so
this could indicate that the housing is bent. Lastly.. take a look through
the housing, end to end,, if it is tweaked, you will most likly be able to
see it, better yet bring a long piece of dowel of rod with you and slide it
through the housing.
>
>How do I tell the difference between various
>versions of the rear end? I'll have the left
>shaft with me for comparison. Would other varieties
>of rear ends have different axles, so I could use
>that as an indicator?

There is a "small" and "large" bearing 9" not sure which one you have, or
need, but find out first.

>
>Pmail please, as I'll head out before the digest
>reaches me.
done :-)

Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
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Home of the BB decal
Bronco 78 in the BB chat room

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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 14:40:20 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wooo Hoooo!!!, another reason 78's Bronco's RULE!!!!

Hey all

Just got off the phone with the EPA. Seems that up to 78, anything
over 6000 lb GVWR was classified as heavy duty, pertaining to engine
emission certifications. Turns out that heavy duty engines were
certified by engine only, while light duty was certified as an
engine/chassis configuration. What does this mean, it means I can
legally have a 1978 or newer (HD certified) 460 in my bronc. 1979 raised
the light/heavy duty cross over to 8600 lb GVWR. I'm not sure how the
2WD/460 only combo in the 70's plays into this. I assume 2WD, F-350's
with 460's were over 6000 lb GVWR.

OX
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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 11:37:02 -0700
From: "Sam Weatherby"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Submerged

Can anyone give me some advice to pass on to this lady?
The insurance company "totaled" it, but they hope to buy it back and try to
fix it.
I think they have a chance. It is a '92 with almost no options.
-srw

- -----Original Message-----
From: Diane Lundeen-Smith
Subject: Help - Our truck took a dip into the lake........

Yes - this is a sad but true story. After spending Saturday afternoon
on the lake - my husband backed our Ford F150 truck down the boat ramp at
Lake Sammamish - threw on the emergency brake ,and went around to hook up
the boat. The e-brake cable snapped, and the truck and trailer rolled
in......within 1-2 minutes the truck was almost completely submerged.
the water came up over the dash to within 12 inches on the top of the
cab ).

Thanks to the kindness of strangers - the truck and trailer was towed out -
after about 15-20 minutes in the water. ( Let me also say there were some
pretty awful people around who thought the whole thing was pretty
funny.......and didn't lift a finger to help. ) Anyway - we are
thankful everyone is ok - we have a 4 month old and 20 month old that
could've been inside.

Here is my question - does anyone know of a mechanic specializing in this
type of damage? Or, have you experienced water damage to your vehicle?
A Chevy mechanic stayed and helped us Saturday night, and didn't feel the
truck would have to be totaled - due to it being a base model, manual
transmission, straight 6 engine without any bells and whistles like auto
door locks, 4WD etc. However, State Farm has been just rotten about
working with us on this - and basically has decided they want to total the
truck without even having it checked out. They also want to give us very
little for it - and plan to retain the salvage to sell the parts........we
are pretty upset about the whole thing, and would love to hear from anyone
who has experienced anything like this.

Thanks!

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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 13:56:52 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Submerged

>Can anyone give me some advice to pass on to this lady?
>The insurance company "totaled" it, but they hope to buy it back and try to
>fix it.
>I think they have a chance. It is a '92 with almost no options.

That helps things out, being a base vehicle there's not a lot to ruin on it
... I would think the first steps would be determining if any water got to
the computer or anything ... if the computer is saved I'd be confident the
truck is fine with only minor replacements (door panels, seats, etc.) The
insurance company is probably looking at this as a "flood" vehicle now, but
unlike flood water, river water is much nicer (never thought you'd say that
did ya!), its only carrying the crap it normally carries and isn't as
likely to leave the muddy mess all over everything. If the things got a
rubber mat and plastic door panels, then likely things'll be just fine.

As for the insurance company's stand, that seems ridiculous, I would think
they'd HAVE to send an assessor out if you didnt' want to total it ... if
talking with your insurance agent directly doesn't get anything to happen,
it might be time to talk to a lawyer. Of course I'd get the opinion of a
trusted mechanic first, just to be sure the truck was worth fixing ...

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 14:58:26 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Dist stuck

Well, one way would be to remove the oil pan, remove the oil pump (both
done on mine just by jacking up the front bumper, very easy), and hammer
out the distributor from below. (Distributors are fairly cheap - $35 for
mine, so if you destroy it all is not lost)

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Audi 4000CS Quattro
IsuzuG prodigy.net

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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 12:14:29 -0700
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Submerged

First of all, tell them they don't have to accept what the insurance company
offers. They are looking out for themselves, not the insured.

There are independent damage appraisors (sp?) who can give an estimate
without bias, but it is going to cost them (It cost me $35 to get a second
opinion on a totalled car last yr.).

I bet the truck can be salvaged. Good thing it was fresh water, much better
to deal with than salt water, which almost always destroys the vehicle. The
engine needs to be flushed before it starts to rust internally.

Besides, where the truck is from...
It spends 90% of the time being soaked anyway! (Kidding! I used to live in
W. Washinton)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Sam Weatherby [mailto:SWeatherby uswest.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 1999 11:37 AM
To: trucks
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Submerged


Can anyone give me some advice to pass on to this lady?
The insurance company "totaled" it, but they hope to buy it back and try to
fix it.
I think they have a chance. It is a '92 with almost no options.
-srw

- -----Original Message-----
From: Diane Lundeen-Smith
Subject: Help - Our truck took a dip into the lake........

Yes - this is a sad but true story. After spending Saturday afternoon
on the lake - my husband backed our Ford F150 truck down the boat ramp at
Lake Sammamish - threw on the emergency brake ,and went around to hook up
the boat. The e-brake cable snapped, and the truck and trailer rolled
in......within 1-2 minutes the truck was almost completely submerged.
the water came up over the dash to within 12 inches on the top of the
cab ).

Thanks to the kindness of strangers - the truck and trailer was towed out -
after about 15-20 minutes in the water. ( Let me also say there were some
pretty awful people around who thought the whole thing was pretty
funny.......and didn't lift a finger to help. ) Anyway - we are
thankful everyone is ok - we have a 4 month old and 20 month old that
could've been inside.

Here is my question - does anyone know of a mechanic specializing in this
type of damage? Or, have you experienced water damage to your vehicle?
A Chevy mechanic stayed and helped us Saturday night, and didn't feel the
truck would have to be totaled - due to it being a base model, manual
transmission, straight 6 engine without any bells and whistles like auto
door locks, 4WD etc. However, State Farm has been just rotten about
working with us on this - and basically has decided they want to total the
truck without even having it checked out. They also want to give us very
little for it - and plan to retain the salvage to sell the parts........we
are pretty upset about the whole thing, and would love to hear from anyone
who has experienced anything like this.

Thanks!

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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 12:20:32 -0700
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Dist stuck

When I was in H.S., my distributor was stuck solid in my '79 Fairmont 302.
The car was running okay and I couldn't afford to break the dist., so I just
left it alone.

One day 5 or 6 months (and several thousand miles) later, the car stalled on
me and wouldn't restart.

Opening the hood found my distributor unstuck and pushed out of the hole. I
had forgotten to put the clamp back on. :^)

- -----Original Message-----
From: George W. Selby, III [mailto:IsuzuG prodigy.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 1999 11:58 AM
To: 'vancester hotmail.com'
Cc: 61-79-List (E-mail)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Dist stuck


Well, one way would be to remove the oil pan, remove the oil pump (both
done on mine just by jacking up the front bumper, very easy), and hammer
out the distributor from below. (Distributors are fairly cheap - $35 for
mine, so if you destroy it all is not lost)

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Audi 4000CS Quattro
IsuzuG prodigy.net

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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 23:21:17 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Submerged

There is nothing tough about decommissioning a U boat :-) But it very time
consuming ( $60 plus an hour labor) and you will find problems down the road
in a few months, years that were caused by the water, this also is part of
the insurance companies dislike with saving your truck,, they don't want a
claim in two years for something they settled today. Or worse you get stuck
with the bill.

Most of the work is basic mechanical stuff, remove, replace, relube, change
oil, fluid, vacuum the water from soft parts of the interior, replace
paper/cardboard interior parts. But then you have things like.. wiring
harnesses, gauge pods, HVAC, wiper motor, gas tank, fuel system, that were
never designed to be submerged.. you may not have problems from them for
many months,, but than corrosion could crop up..or not and that is a hard
decision point.

Personally on my Bronco..If I were to dunk it, ok more so then I do
now...... like over the roof.. I would fix and repair, not send it to the
yard.. But the big point here is I can and do, do my own work. No labor
rate :-) If you are paying somebody to do this man $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. On
the insurance company not cooperating... most the time all I have to do is
remind them that I have two vehicles, a house, renters insurance, and two
future teenage boys to insure.... then I ask them again if they cant do it
my way.. It's worked so far :-) Seems they will go against there policies,
if you can show them the money......

Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
Bronco 78 in the BB chat room

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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 12:24:28 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Submerged

Thanks for your message at 01:56 PM 7/15/99 -0500, William S Hart. Your
message was:

...unlike flood water, river water is much nicer

I grew up in that area and it's a lake (Lake Sammammish) and the amount of
mud, silt, pollution probably depends on which boat ramp they were using.
But I would think the computer would be the major factor here. I mean, how
much damage could water do to anything except the electronics (which could
be disastrous on a '92).


>As for the insurance company's stand, that seems ridiculous, I would think
>they'd HAVE to send an assessor out if you didnt' want to total it ... if
>talking with your insurance agent directly doesn't get anything to happen,
>it might be time to talk to a lawyer.

I have heard the Washington State Insurance Commissioner's office can be
helpful in settling insurance disputes. A lawyer (even a cc:Lawyer's Name)
can get their attention, fast.

Of course I'd get the opinion of a
>trusted mechanic first, just to be sure the truck was worth fixing ...
This is very good advice.



Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 15:32:30 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Dist stuck

Southerland, Rich wrote:
>
> When I was in H.S., my distributor was stuck solid in my '79 Fairmont 302.
> The car was running okay and I couldn't afford to break the dist., so I just
> left it alone.
>
> One day 5 or 6 months (and several thousand miles) later, the car stalled on
> me and wouldn't restart.
>
> Opening the hood found my distributor unstuck and pushed out of the hole. I
> had forgotten to put the clamp back on. :^)
>

So your saying I have to drive my 79 Bronc around for 6 months and then
my distr will come out. Man, thats a long wait, but I guess it's my only
shot left :-)

OX
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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 13:09:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems

Ian wrote:
> >ok i dont know why it only posted half of it, but, heres the rest I tried to
> >start it after the lights came on, clicked a few times, stopped, lights went
> >bye bye, hit the dash in frustration, lights came back on, tried to start it
> >again, bye bye lights, hit it again, lights back on, did this several times,
> >lights also came on when i fiddled with the key in the switch. im starting
> >to consider a rewiring project, i figure it cant get any more screwed up...
> >

Too which wish replies:

> Hmmm...have you tried hooking up a remote starter to take the ignition
> switch out of the equation then ? Basically you'll just short across the
> solenoid terminals (the big ones)

Ohhhhhh! Don't try this at home kids! Connecting a remote starter
button across the big terminals will most likely fry your switch,
and maybe your hands. Connect that switch from the +battery to the
"S" term on the solenoid. Bill knows this, but he didn't type it :-)

Ian, start at the battery and remove and clean all the connections
between it and the starter. At this point, nothing else really
matters! Once you get the starter to turn over, then you can figure
out the rest! That means shiny metal on the battery posts and clamps.
The ground cable should run from the battery to the block, and then
another (can be a little smaller) from the block to the body. If you
have replacement cable clamps (the common ends which clamp the
cable with a couple of bolts) look them over very carefully. Battery
acid can get in the cable under the insulation and cause all kinds
of crummy connections.

After that, if the lights still go out (I assume we're talkin'
headlights) when you try the starter, then you probably have
a bad battery with an internal high resistance.

Now, with that typed, I just re-read your post. It looks like
maybe you were talking dash lights?, which would make more
sense, the headlight circuit doesn't use the ignition switch.
I would still start with the basic battery / starter circuits,
it also sounds like you have a worn-out ignition switch.

Take this one circuit at a time, if you try and rewire everything
at once it can get really bad!
- --
Pat Brown
Temperatures plunging (Fog rolled in) in Sebastopol, California
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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 15:20:09 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems

>> Hmmm...have you tried hooking up a remote starter to take the ignition
>> switch out of the equation then ? Basically you'll just short across the
>> solenoid terminals (the big ones)
>
>Ohhhhhh! Don't try this at home kids! Connecting a remote starter
>button across the big terminals will most likely fry your switch,
>and maybe your hands. Connect that switch from the +battery to the
>"S" term on the solenoid. Bill knows this, but he didn't type it :-)
>
DOH! Thanks Pat, I was a little tired this morning when I typed it I guess
... don't short across the solenoid, it causes things to get welded quickly
... I have done it with a wrench and thick gloves on (long story, simple
solution I could have done at the side of the road, but of course I was so
ticked I didn't think of it) but DON"T try it.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 13:27:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Extaordinary Ford Trucks !

Bas asks:
>
> Anyway, has anyone here ever had a 20+ year old ford truck stolen?

Not mine, but there is a 73-79 Crew cab sitting along the highway
on my commute. It was left (abandoned?) last week, it's slowly
disappearing. The hood went up after a day or two, one of the
grills disappeared, I noticed this morning the tailgate is gone.
I suppose it'll head to the boneyard soon :-(
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 15:13:57 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems

Thanks for your message at 03:20 PM 7/15/99 -0500, William S Hart. Your
message was:
>... I have done it with a wrench and thick gloves on (long story, simple
>solution I could have done at the side of the road, but of course I was so
>ticked I didn't think of it) but DON"T try it.
>
I made a tool just for Ford solenoids. Pretty primitive, but it works. I
took a very heavy guage piece of wire with good insulation and just bent it
into a "U " that can be put on each terminal of the solenoid. A 50's
juvenile delinquent trick that came back to me one time I bought a truck
without a key...
Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 15:43:52 -0700
From: Jeff Harsha
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Help with "tight" power steering on '69

I just had the leaking and worn power steering gearbox on my '69 F100
replaced with a rebuilt Bendix gearbox. I brought the truck to an
alignment shop to redo the alignment and they told me that the gearbox
needed to be adjusted because it does not return to center if you
release the wheel while going forward. the alignment shop told me it
was "a simple adjustment" but neglected to show me what to
adjust. After reading the shop manual I am baffled. Can anybody give a
hint as to what I should be adjusting?



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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 16:16:41 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Extaordinary Ford Trucks !

I come from Calif. vehicles do disappear quickly is left on the road..
Mike in Burien WA.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 20:01:45 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78-79 Bronco prices ...

In a message dated 7/15/99 8:54:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time, yl dds.nl writes:


took me 4 days to find this one, I must have been really lucky..
>>
Hell yes you were lucky. Took me over a year and a half to find a truck that
would do what I wanted. Glad I didnt buy the first thing I saw though, Cuz
Tweety has turned out to be a great truck.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 20:20:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Daniel DiMartino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems

i had similar problems getting my truck running after 2 years of sitting
without use. i encountered every kind of electrical problem that could
have gone wrong, and one big headache relief was by-passing the entire
ignition (junk) at the dash with two toggle switches. one turned the
power on and one powered the starter, all the accessories were wired to
the hot side of the main on/off switch. it seemed to be the weakest link
and speed up the process of just getting things running smoothly. now i
can simply replace the ignition with a new one.

- --- William S Hart wrote:
> >ok i dont know why it only posted half of it, but, heres the rest I
> tried to
> >start it after the lights came on, clicked a few times, stopped, lights
> went
> >bye bye, hit the dash in frustration, lights came back on, tried to
> start it
> >again, bye bye lights, hit it again, lights back on, did this several
> times,
> >lights also came on when i fiddled with the key in the switch. im
> starting
> >to consider a rewiring project, i figure it cant get any more screwed
> up...
> >
> Hmmm...have you tried hooking up a remote starter to take the ignition
> switch out of the equation then ? Basically you'll just short across
> the
> solenoid terminals (the big ones) and if the starter spins the motor
> over
> then you know the problem is between the solenoid and the switch .... if
> you're bangin the dash and causing things to work again, I'd start
> hunting
> for loose wires and shorts ... when you say lights I'm assuming you mean
> the ones on the dash, not the headlights ?? Havin things like
> headlights
> and blower motors (fans) and interior lights on can all make things hard
> to
> start ... I've actually started a car by turning all this stuff off! I
> know the switches aren't supposed to work that way, but the little D*dge
> did...
>
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> wish
>
> Links
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
> '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
> '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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>

===
Daniel DiMartino

1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 17:41:02 -0700
From: "Steve Schwartz"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - fusible links

It is NOT a fusible link. Fusible links are designed to protect the wiring
harness from shorts, and the fires they cause.

A stock 12V coil is more like a 8V coil, and needs some RESISTANCE in series
(a ballast resistor) to operate normally. When the starter is engages,
there is LESS voltage available to the coil, due to the battery's internal
resistance. To bring the voltage back up to normal, during starting, the
coil is fed directly from the battery (through a contact in the solenoid).
The rest of the time a little piece of high-resistance wire, which branches
off the ignition switch, feeds the coil, dropping the coil voltage to its
nominal value.

Sorry I failed to find the documentation about the location of the wire, but
my advice is to check the color of the coil (+) wire, trace it to where it
enters the dash, and where it splices into the resistance wire. This should
lead to the splice into the ign switched (+) wire.

Avoid the temptation to wire the coil directly from the 12V ign sw. It may
run for a while, but your points/ign module (electronic ign) will not live
long and prosper.

Steve

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Serian
> Sent: Thursday, July 15, 1999 6:45 AM
> To: 61-79 FordList
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - fusible links
>
>
> > So far I have narrowed it down to
> > some where under the dash (connector
> > or ignition switch) but is there a fuse or
> > fusible link for just the coil power in the
> > run position?
>
> Many of these fusible links on the Fords I
> have are at the starter relay solenoid.
> This is the position of that particular fusible
> link in my '79 Bronco ...
>
> I don't know for sure, but I don't think there
> is a fusible link at the ignition switch ...
>
> The problem also could be caused
> by a burnt-free or rusted-free wire.
>
>
>
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