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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #246
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61-79-list-digest Thursday, July 15 1999 Volume 03 : Number 246



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 identification
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems
[none]
Re:FTE 61-79 - Interchange
FTE 61-79 - Re: vibrations...
FTE 61-79 - Hard Shiftin'
FTE 61-79 - Re: - No Subject -(should have been vibrations)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hard Shiftin'
FTE 61-79 - re- brake lights/turn signals
FTE 61-79 - Re: Chain Reaction & Remanufactured Parts
FTE 61-79 - Wheelbase
FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings
FTE 61-79 - Re: Low rumbling
FTE 61-79 - Chain Reaction & Remanufactured Parts
FTE 61-79 - RE: Aftermarket parts killing car
FTE 61-79 - 9" Rear End: Left Axle Needed
FTE 61-79 - 9" Read End: What years/models used?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Rear End: Left Axle Needed
Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Read End: What years/models used?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Read End: What years/models used?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 16 inch bias tires, recommendations
Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Rear End: Left Axle Needed
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems
FTE 61-79 - odometer roll back
ground strap was Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems
FTE 61-79 - brakes/turn signals
FTE 61-79 - Re: 1964 F100 Front Wheel Cylinders
FTE 61-79 - No Run 78 F-F250
FTE 61-79 - turn signals don't c*ncel
FTE 61-79 - What's it worth? '69 f-250 Camper Special
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheelbase
Re: FTE 61-79 - turn signals don't c*ncel
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1964 F100 Front Wheel Cylinders
FTE 61-79 - stuck dist./bloody knuckles
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings
Re: ground strap was Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems
RE: FTE 61-79 - No Run 78 F-F250
Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 04:40:34 -0500
From: Michael
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 identification

Look at the casting number on the block. The first letter designates the decade
of manufacture. C=60's, D=70's, E=80's. The second figure will be a number which
designates what year of the decade that the engine was made.

R wrote:

> >>I have a 1978 step side 4WD F-150. The truck originally had a I-6 engine,
> >>but that was replaced with a 302 before I purchased it. I'm having trouble
> >>with the starter and was told that the starters for 302s were changed around
> >>1982. ie. different starter for pre-82 and post-82. My question to you is,
> >>is there some identification stamped on the engine that would allow me to
> >>identify how old it is.
> >>
> >>Thanks for your help.
> >>
> >>Long time lurker
> >>Bonkrr
> >>
> >>1978 F-150 4WD
> >>1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
> >>1995 Taurus SHO
> >>
> >
> >
>
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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 04:58:44 -0500
From: Michael
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems

Check the ground staps. The battery should ground to the engine block, the block
to the body and the body to the frame.

IanBoss69 aol.com wrote:

> Ok, Im miffed, i can't fix this darn thing, I started it one day, (I can't
> remember if i already posted something about this so forgive me if i did,
> theres more to the story now anyways) Went to the grocery. (2 miles) got
> my stuff, came out, wouldn't start. hooked it up to a tow truck to try and
> jump it, wouldn't jump it, guy said it seemed like the starter was locked up.
> Spent some bucks towing it home, put a new starter on it. Wouldn't start,
> just clicked like the battery was dead, battery was dead. Charged the
> battery, still wouldn't start, just clicked. Got a new silenoid (spelling?),
> wouldn't start, checked the connections, tested the alternator which the
> shop said was like new, briefly checked over the fuses, none seemed blown,
> my question to you is this,,,,whats wrong with my truck? Anybody? pretty
> pretty please help me...
>
> Ian
> 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
> members.aol.com/ianboss69/page/home.htm
> True Blue Ford Blue.....and i got the blues.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 07:57:39 -0400
From: "Sean O'Malley"
Subject: [none]

No, it's not the ominous rumble of my 300's exhaust. Actually, I hope
it is... :)

When I'm on the highway in my 78 and am cruising steady-state, 50ish or
faster, I get a really deep, rumbling vibration through the whole truck.
There's no "note" to the sound--IE, it's not a howl or a whine. It's a
fast rumble, kinda like a drum roll on a really big bass drum. I can
make it go away by either coasting or accelerating. Seems like as long
as the engine is pulling, either up or down, there's no vibration. If
I let the truck find its own cruising speed for a particular throttle
position, there's also no vibration. That makes me think that there's
some unwanted slack somewhere in the driveline that shows up as an
oscillation when the crank isn't delivering torque (IE at "coasting
throttle".) I'm hoping it's something reasonably simple, like
u-joints. Or something that won't break for a long time, like the rear
end. I'm hoping it's _not_ the crank flopping around in its bearings...

Then again, it could just be some crazy acoustics in my rusted out
exhaust...

Any ideas?

- --sean

- -------------------
Sean O'Malley
Ohio University
Communication Network Services
740-593-1555 Fax: 740-593-1944

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 05:07:23 PDT
From: "eldon eversull"
Subject: Re:FTE 61-79 - Interchange

>>I am thnking of putting together a page with interchange information.

>>An example is my need for new drums for the '65. drums for a newer truck
>>are half the cost....

Sam:
Sounds like a great idea. I went to the Hollander site yesterday and they
want an arm and leg for most of the interchange books.

I paid $90 apiece for new rear brake drums for my 1964 f100 at the local
parts place. When I later purchased rear springs from ESPO, a place in PA,
they sent me a catalog that had drums for a 64 for $45. If that is closer
to your price, I could look it up for you.

Eldon


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 08:08:39 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: vibrations...

>That makes me think that there's
>some unwanted slack somewhere in the driveline that shows up as an
>oscillation when the crank isn't delivering torque (IE at "coasting
>throttle".) I'm hoping it's something reasonably simple, like
>u-joints. Or something that won't break for a long time, like the rear
>end. I'm hoping it's _not_ the crank flopping around in its bearings...
>
>Then again, it could just be some crazy acoustics in my rusted out
>exhaust...
>
>Any ideas?
>
I would think the first step would be to isolate the problem a bit ... you
can try shoving in the clutch while you're at that speed where the
vibration is ... if the vibration stops, then its in the engine, if it
continues, its in the driveline (IE tranny on back). If it is on the
motor, it should do this in any gear and at the same number of revs. If
this is true, then check that exhaust, it could be rubbing somewhere, or
about to fall off!

If its in the driveline, try blocking the wheels and with the tranny in
neutral see how much slop you have in the drive shaft ... while you're
there don't forget to check the u-joints!

have you had any work done on the truck lately ? new tires or anything ?
Check to be sure no weights have broken off of the rims and caused a tire
to become unbalanced, I had a heck of a time with that on my last set of tires.

Just some basic starting points ... Oh yeah, if your truck is a manual or a
4x4, or both, leave your hand on the gearshift while its makin this vibe
... if you can't really feel it there, then likely its not driveline
related ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 06:50:37 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hard Shiftin'

My 4 spd. shifts smooth as butter,except for when
downshifting from 4th to 3rd.It won't go without grinding.
Clutch?Syncros?(It's not operator error:)
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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 09:57:38 -0400
From: "Sean O'Malley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: - No Subject -(should have been vibrations)

On Wed, 14 Jul 1999 07:57:39 -0400 Sean O'Malley
wrote:

Sorry about the null subject, folks. I got a bounce on the first post
and forgot to add a subject on my resend...

- --sean

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 09:01:34 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hard Shiftin'

>My 4 spd. shifts smooth as butter,except for when
>downshifting from 4th to 3rd.It won't go without grinding.
>Clutch?Syncros?(It's not operator error:)

Have you tried double clutching, or matching the revs as you try and
downshift ? This will mean less work for the syncros and hopefully
smoother shifting ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 07:51:03 -0700
From: sparky mail.island.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re- brake lights/turn signals

>>>Wont this give you 4 brakelights when the turnsignals are off and 3 when
>right or left turnsignals are on? Or is this what you want? Or am I
>confused?
>
>Sparky,
>
>Yes, yes, and no.
>
>- -- John
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com
>1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>Dearborn iron rules!!!!

Right after I sent the post the light came on in my head :) That is a
great idea 4 lights are much better that 2. I will probably change mine
when I replace my signal light switch. Right now the brake light circuit
thru it doesn't work all the time.
Like I always say " this is the way I did it...... you might see a better
way"

Sparky
73 F250
4x4 390FE (not even close to stock)

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 08:28:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Chain Reaction & Remanufactured Parts

Danger
I agree, there is no 'QC' in
r..e..m..a..n..u..f..a..c..t..u..r..e..d.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V


>Parts
>A short time ago, I had a problem with the right
>front brakepulling on my 69 F250 which I had
>previously converted to power disc brakes using all
>new parts. The problem was easily solved by replacing
>the new caliper(lower piston was sticking). After
>using my new power brake bleeder, I took the truck in
>for state safety & emissions testing and the results
>showed a
>difference of "-0.6%" in the left right balance of
>the front brakes so I figured my problems are all
>solved.
> Unfortunately the high heat of the hub caused by
>the faulty caliper has burnt/melted the high temp
>front disc brake grease off of the bearings
>because I'm now hearing a very faint squeak/chirp.
>I've popped the cap off
>of the rotor and noticed the grease is burnt black
>where it touches the hub. Looks like I'm going to be
>replacing the bearings today.
>Sometimes I wonder about the value of remanufactured
>parts as one faulty item can and usually does cause
>damage to other related items which are not covered
>by the "lifetime" warranty. I had just done an oil
>change when the fuel pump malfunctioned and forced me
>to change the oil again,... do you think I would have
>been compensated if the engine blew up due to afaulty
>fuel pump?... NOT
>I'm going to have nightmares about the parts clerk
>saying "here's your replacement water pump sir, sorry
>about the last one ruining your brandnew engine."
>Danger


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 10:54:48 -0500
From: 3granch ayrix.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wheelbase

>
Is this a long or short bed?

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"

Sorry for the poor information in my original post. I was having technical difficulty posting to the list and it taken me a week to reply. Anyway, yes My F100 Supercab has a short bed with a wheelbase of 139". My 78 F250 has a long bed and a wheelbase of 133". I am throwing out these numbers from memory so I might be off. But I specifically remember checking the wheelbase length between the two of them and the Supercab is 6" longer. I just bought the Supercab in May and was going to haul it home on a 16 ft. trailer. It had been sittin in a barn for two years being used as a home for the local squirrels, what a mess!!! But we decided it was too long for the trailer so we filled the tires and pulled it 10 miles home.

Ronnie Rowton
Braxton, MS
78 F250 4WD 351M NP435
76 F100 2WD 360 C? (Parts, looking to trade 360/C? for 351M and a rust free bed)




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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 12:01:54 -0400
From: "Marvin Meyer"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings

Hi ya'll; i'm new to the list and thought I could throw my 2 cents worth in
now.
In along the lines of the bearing Dept. (which is where I work F.A.G.
Bearings Ltd)

On the 3/4 & 1 tons, I have played with, I have noticed the infamous
chisel marks on the nuts and how loose the nuts are. At 60-MPH the
peripheral speed of the wheel is fast and the vibrations are severe on the
2.25" tapered rollers.
When tightening up the wheel with the proper 2-9/16" socket torque to
60 ft/lbs. then back off 1/4 turn. When installing the second lock nut
torque this one around 75 ft/lbs.
By the initial setting you are, forcing the rollers to set themselves in
the raceway, and backing off 3/8 -1/4 of a turn ensures the proper clearance
for heat expansion.
These are full floating hubs, but the grease is there for immediate
protection and the axle lube is there for high-speed protection.
Bearings tell a story, of how well things are going. Look at the rollers
for discoloration, pitting. Look at the inner ring race way for the same
stuff.
By using a chisel, the chips of steel are laying in the hub core, and in
due time, it will introduce itself to the rollers.
Up here in Canada commertial vehicles have to go through an anual saftey
inspection and braking systems are scrutinized. I just rebuilt a Dana 70
that a Class-A mechanic shop was servicing most of it's life, and the chip's
were in
Marvin Meyer
Stratford, Ont
Machinist, Tool & Die, 4th Class Eng, Millwright
And still Learning!!


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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 13:31:22 -0400
From: David Wadson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Low rumbling

>No, it's not the ominous rumble of my 300's exhaust. Actually, I hope
>it is... :)
>
>When I'm on the highway in my 78 and am cruising steady-state, 50ish or
>faster, I get a really deep, rumbling vibration through the whole truck.
>There's no "note" to the sound--IE, it's not a howl or a whine. It's a
>fast rumble, kinda like a drum roll on a really big bass drum. I can
>make it go away by either coasting or accelerating. Seems like as long
>as the engine is pulling, either up or down, there's no vibration. If
>I let the truck find its own cruising speed for a particular throttle
>position, there's also no vibration. That makes me think that there's
>some unwanted slack somewhere in the driveline that shows up as an
>oscillation when the crank isn't delivering torque (IE at "coasting
>throttle".) I'm hoping it's something reasonably simple, like
>u-joints. Or something that won't break for a long time, like the rear
>end. I'm hoping it's _not_ the crank flopping around in its bearings...

I had a similar sort of problem in my truck and it turned out to be my
driveshaft and the yoke on it. The driveshaft I had gotten was shorter but
the yoke was longer so I figured it would work out all right. While I think
the overall length was OK, it turns out that the splines in the yoke didn't
run the whole length of it - they started about 3 inches into the yoke.
Because of that, the splines were just barely mating up with the
transmission. End result - the yoke was vibrating especially at highway
speed. Once I got a proper length driveshaft and yoke, the problem went
away.

Crawl underneath and play around with your driveshaft - that's probably
where the problem is...


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS2" - 78 F100/302/C4


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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 13:02:57 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Chain Reaction & Remanufactured Parts

>>Sometimes I wonder about the value of remanufactured parts as one faulty
item can and usually does cause damage to other related items which are not
covered by the "lifetime" warranty.

Danger,
This is true. But even brand new parts can be defective. Personally, I would
rather hve a rebuilt OEM part on something like a water pump than a new
casting from across the Pacific that looks like Godzilla's back on the
outside and who knows what on the inside.

Speaking of water pumps, the one on my Dad's special order brand new 69
lasted 123 miles. Course it was a G#C.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 14:00:51 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Aftermarket parts killing car

The valve cover seal on my Nissan failed 1 day after I installed it. It
leaked oil on the timing belt, the teeth broke off the timing belt, the
vavles smacked into the pistons, dead engine, Went to the advance auto,
and they said exactly what you imagined, "Sorry about your engine, here's a
new valve cover gasket."

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Audi 4000CS Quattro
IsuzuG prodigy.net

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 11:52:24 -0700
From: "Jeff Carver"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" Rear End: Left Axle Needed

Just talked to the shop about my '64 CrewCab.
The gap between the brake drum and backing plate is
caused by a bad axle!

Does anybody have a left axle for a 9" rear end
hanging around or lying around that I could get
my hands on soon? A new axle would cost around
$250.

How about a whole rear end in good shape?

I promise it will go to a good cause, my Ford truck.
I'm in the Sacramento area.

I wonder if the axle is the cause of the weird
clunking sound I got when going around corners,
instead of the spring bushings? The bushings were
shot anyway and the front springs were flat, so
they needed to be replaced.

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab


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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 12:22:49 -0700
From: "Jeff Carver"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" Read End: What years/models used?

Since I may have to go junkyarding to find axles for
my truck, what years would be compatible with my
'64 F100, what about models? I should be a 9" rear
end. Did this come in cars too? or were they a
lighter version. Same axle used in F250's?

It seems that carrying a 3/4 ton (dry weight) camper
on a 1/2 ton already-at-GVW truck managed to crush
the left axle! Duh! I assume that since I was able
to remove the right axle bearing at home with no
special tools, the right side would be in a similar
crushed condition. Ford tough. It has been driven
this way for the last 20 years!

Anybody have a right axle?!

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab


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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 23:30:12 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Rear End: Left Axle Needed

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Carver
snip
>Does anybody have a left axle for a 9" rear end
>hanging around or lying around that I could get
>my hands on soon? A new axle would cost around
>$250.


Check some place else.. A new 9" axle shaft (minus bearing, seal and
retainer) should not cost you more than $125. If I can get them in Alaska
for less then that, you should be able to also. BTW want an idea on the
markup on that piece...I pay emploee cost of $70 he sells them out the door
to every one else for $110.
I would be happy to give ya my extra... in fact we could save on
shipping........ I'll send you one piece at a time ! Would you like the
smaller of the two pieces first :-)

Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
Bronco 78 in the BB chat room

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 23:32:50 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Read End: What years/models used?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Carver


>Since I may have to go junkyarding to find axles for
>my truck, what years would be compatible with my
>'64 F100, what about models? I should be a 9" rear
>end. Did this come in cars too? or were they a
>lighter version.

Caution, research this one.. There is a small bearing 9" used in many early
apps. Not sure if this applies to your truck or not,, But is something you
need to check to avoid return trips.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
Bronco 78 in the BB chat room

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 15:40:52 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Read End: What years/models used?

In a message dated 7/14/99 3:26:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
truck.carver mailcity.com writes:

> Since I may have to go junkyarding to find axles for
> my truck, what years would be compatible with my
> '64 F100, what about models?
Jeff:
I can run down some specs if you would like. Just send me all the
data from yuor Vin Plate and/or axle tag.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 12:59:01 -0700
From: Brian Koss
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 16 inch bias tires, recommendations

When I was looking (a year ago) you could get Goodyear Workhorse tires for
about $62 a piece. The bias were about $5 less than radials.


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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 14:01:09 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Rear End: Left Axle Needed

Jeff Carver wrote...

> Does anybody have a left axle for a 9" rear end
> hanging around or lying around that I could get
> my hands on soon? A new axle would cost around
> $250.
>
> How about a whole rear end in good shape?
>
> I promise it will go to a good cause, my Ford truck.
> I'm in the Sacramento area.
..............

It's too bad your so far from SLC, Utah as there is a 65 F100 with a
Dana 60-2 Power Loc Posi rear that you could get for $500 or less for the
whole truck. Unfortunately the truck is pretty beat up, but it does have a
nice rear axle assembly, and the tires and the grille looked pretty nice
also.

Danger
danger csolutions.net



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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 16:41:12 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems

ok i cant find a ground from the engine to the frame anywhere, i looked for
an half hour, under, over, to each side of the engine, cant find nuttin.
anyways i got a new solinoid/starter wire today, lights decided to come back
on after i had the starter tested again and installed the new wire, and
hooked up the battery
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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 15:50:28 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems

IanBoss69 aol.com wrote:
>
> ok i cant find a ground from the engine to the frame anywhere, i looked for
> an half hour, under, over, to each side of the engine, cant find nuttin.

There should be a ground wire on the back if the intake manifold running
to the firewall. If there's not, you should add one. It should clear up
your problems.
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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 15:59:43 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems

>ok i cant find a ground from the engine to the frame anywhere, i looked for
>an half hour, under, over, to each side of the engine, cant find nuttin.
>anyways i got a new solinoid/starter wire today, lights decided to come back
>on after i had the starter tested again and installed the new wire, and
>hooked up the battery

Ian, follow the (-) cable on your battery ... usually it runs down to the
frame though a loop there (sometimes its bolted to the frame here too),
then it should run from there to the motor, usually the front of the head
... if this is missing it will be hard for the motor to start ...

There is also sometimes another grounding wire at the back of the pass.
side head (though it can move around to intake and probably over to
driver's side) but it should go from the back of the motor to the
firewall, or another suitable grounding place. Mine's missing, but you can
pick them up from the local parts store, just be sure they are big enough
to carry lots of current.

I think I'm gonna get a nice braided one if I can find it :)


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 16:12:18 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - odometer roll back

>>Its nice to know about how many miles a truck has on it, but that is
just part of what I use when evaluating a truck's "state".

True, true, Bryan. My idea of a frame off resto that would qualify as a go
to zero would be something like Stu has done (is doing? I forget). If
everything, and I mean everything, has been put back to factory specs, then
the former life is almost irrelevant.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 01:11:56 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: ground strap was Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems

Group, for those unaware.. Do you self a really big favor.. run a minimum
of three quality (i.e. not the wimpy stock one) ground straps. Body to
engine, body to frame, engine to frame. Multiply paths, redundancy of
paths, and piece of mind that you will not be grounding things through
unintended paths....speedo cable, transmission, whatever....

All this of course JMHO

Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
Bronco 78 in the BB chat room

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 16:25:36 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - brakes/turn signals

Sparky,

When you did your conversion, didn't you say you cut the new hole below the
seperator? This would make the new light shine behind the reflector, which
is not a problem, but how do you keep the new light from shining out the
backup light lense? A white light to the rear except when going backwards is
ticketable in Texas.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 14:36:21 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1964 F100 Front Wheel Cylinders

On Tue, 13 Jul 1999, TBeeee aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/13/99 11:34:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> truck.carver mailcity.com writes:
>
> >
> > Oh yeah, the shop quotedme $92 each for the front
> > brake cylinders! Anybody have a different price?
>
> Jeff:
> That price may not be too far out of line if your getting NOS Ford
> stuff. However, you should be able to get reman/aftermarket stuff much
> cheaper. For instance Autokrafters has a front cylinder for a 65-67 at 37.95
> each. The catalog I have doesn't list a 64 2wd application, but you might
> call them. A 1997 Mac's Antique Auto catalog has them for 39.95. Shop
> around these are only two of many suppliers out there. I hope this helps and
> let me know if you need any further info.

I also have one of these and I just rebuilt the master cylinder because
of the price. If I was going to replace it I would be strongly tempted
to use a dual model from something else, for safety reasons.

Birken
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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 19:51:21 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - No Run 78 F-F250

Forwarded for Don Grossman


H*lp

I was helping out a friend yesterday with a 78 F-250 It has the
duraspark ign and such. Anyway his alternator went bad and the Reman.
he got also went bad, internal short, and wiped out the fusible link. I
replaced that and now there is no power to the coil in the "Run"
position. When the key is in the start position the coil get 12V off
the starter relay just fine. I can also use a jumper wire from the
battery to the ignition side of the starter relay and the truck runs
fine.

So far I have narrowed it down to some where under the dash (
connector or ignition switch) but is there a fuse or fusible link for
just the coil power in the run position? What is the color of the wire
from the switch to the coil? Anyone ever wonder where stuff goes when
you need it, can't find my Haynes Manual anywhere.

Thanks

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4



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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 19:52:50 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - turn signals don't c*ncel

Forwarded for "eldon eversull"


My turn signals don't c*ncel on my 1964 f100. I assumed the plastic cam was
broken, but when I pulled the wheel last weekend, it was in fine shape. I
looked in my shop manual and the pile of catalogs I have, but can't figure
out what is missing. There is a c*ncellation collar on the back side of the
steering wheel that has an opening that looks like some kind of pin should
be in it to come in contact with the turn signal cam. I assume if I put a
metal pin in the collar that it will soon eat up the cam. I am thinking of
trying to put a nylon bolt in the collar to trigger the cam. Does anyone
know what originally was in that collar or how I could make the turn signals
c*ncel? TIA

Eldon, 1964 f100


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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 20:38:37 -0400
From: Bill
Subject: FTE 61-79 - What's it worth? '69 f-250 Camper Special

Hello to All:

First, thanks in advance for reading this. Second, this is the first
time around on this list, so I hope this is appropriate.

The Truck:

F-250 Camper Special
360 C.I.D
4-spd top loader (assuming that it's a BW T-18)
4.10 or 4.11 rears (need to research vin plate to know for sure)

43,000 original two owner (three counting me) miles.

This truck is completely factory original. The interior is remarkably
clean (black dash, shiny, not cracked. White buckets that are very
white,etc. Black carpets

Factory Air (mechanicals/electrical work, no gas)

The body is remarkably clean. Two slight (and I mean slight) dings on
hood. And a very slight crease (about 1 inch) on the right door where
the west coast mirror meets the door. The paint (med. beige) still has a
little shine to it, but has a lot of oxidation. Looks good for 30 years
old. The undercarriage is as new. Cab mounts, rockers, door bottoms,
etc.....all as new. The truck was undercoated and Ziebarted when it was
purchased in '69

I bought this from a neighbor a few weeks ago. My intention was to use
it as a work truck, but since then have been told by many it would be a
shame to put this ol' girl into the salt this winter. I didn't intend to
buy a "classic". Anyway the truck has had 15,000 miles put on it since
1973. The guy I bought it from has put 500 miles a year on it to go
hunting each fall. A few years ago he dropped about 3k (I have the
receipts) into it to have everything on the bottom of the truck replaced
that wasn't undercoated (oil pan, cables, exhaust manifolds, calipers,
wheel cylinders,exhaust sys., etc.).
Presently, I'm having a valve job done to it (sat for about a year,
valves sit seized I think). Heads are off as we speak and the bottom
look very good (no ridge on the tops of the cylinders, etc.) Also, just
put a brand new set of 16.5 X 9.50 Coopers under it.

The only rust on this truck is the battery box and a 4" diameter hole
thru the inner fender under the battery box. Otherwise, no rust.

So what's reasonable to ask? I have no idea what the market is for this
old beast.

Thanks again.

Bill

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 20:43:18 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheelbase

In a message dated 7/14/99 9:02:25 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
3granch ayrix.net writes:

>

Thats just what I wanted to hear. I like the looks of the Super Cab Step
sides, and was thinking of making Tweety into one. And sense my wheelbase is
140" I think I could do it rather easily. And Id still have the one ton.
Hmm, nuther project to mull over. Thanks again for the info.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 19:53:09 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - turn signals don't c*ncel

Eldon wrote...

> My turn signals don't c*ncel on my 1964 f100. I assumed the plastic cam
was
> broken, but when I pulled the wheel last weekend, it was in fine shape. I
> looked in my shop manual and the pile of catalogs I have, but can't figure
> out what is missing.
..........

I know that if the gap is to large between the steering wheel and column
collar then the turn signals will not return to the neutral position.
Perhaps the problem lies in the lower bearings of the steering column?


Danger


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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 20:21:26 -0600
From: richlars ibm.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1964 F100 Front Wheel Cylinders

> I also have one of these and I just rebuilt the master cylinder because
> of the price. If I was going to replace it I would be strongly tempted
> to use a dual model from something else, for safety reasons.

I have a '62 F-250 and have often wonders if this was possible to do. What model
cylinder would you use?

Rich

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Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 02:23:10 GMT
From: "Brian Vance"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - stuck dist./bloody knuckles

I need some shoulders to cry on. I remember reading about this some time
ago.

My 77 351M has bean knocking a little upon slow acceleration and when I go
up hills. I decided to check the timing after reading alot of posts on the
subject here. I found my marks after looking and looking. I painted a dot
on "0". Hooked everything up and started the engine. The timing light dial
was on zero. I started turning the dial and when the arrow was lined up
with "0" on the rotor, the dial on the light said 45. And this was on the
ATC side. This means my timing is 45 degrees ATC right? I then
disconnected the vac adv line and plugged the end up and tried it again but
nothing changed. I don't know for sure what my timing should be but I knew
right away this was way too much. I was all happy thinking I was on to
something. My advance wasn't stuck or anything because a hooked up a hose
to it and sucked on it and the plate inside moved fine. So I got out the
wrench and to my suprise the hold down on the dist was already loose. Why?
Because there is no way the g# d # thing would ever turn, no matter what
happened. There is a small notch that sticks out from the dist on the
drivers side, it already has hammer marks all over it. I hit it with a
hammer for a while and I couldnt get it to budge. I even tried prying with
a bar between it and the intake. Am I right that the timing is way off?
How should I get the dist loose? Should I take it to the Ford garage and
tell them I want my timing done (and not say anything else)? This is one of
the very few times I got truly mad at the truck. I really need everyones
help on this one. Thanks alot for any ideas.

Brian
77 F250 4X4
351M


_______________________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 20:43:54 -0600
From: richlars ibm.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings

Marvin Meyer wrote:

> Hi ya'll; i'm new to the list and thought I could throw my 2 cents worth in
> now.
> In along the lines of the bearing Dept. (which is where I work F.A.G.
> Bearings Ltd)

Thank you very much for taking the time to write this. I recently helped a
neighbor kid whos father had passed away and left him with his '74 Hi-Boy and
the kid beat it to death. One day when rounding the corner he lost power and
looked in his rear view mirror to see his axle sticking out about 2 feet.
Everything was pretty trashed so I got new bearings and seals and put it back
pretty much the way you discribed. I had to JB Weld the race back into the hub
as it had worn completely free. I wouldn't do this except the way the kid beat
the poor ol' thing I didn't figure it would last long anyway. Sure 'nuf, it now
sits with a blown clutch and a kid without the funds to fix it up. Probably on
its way to the bone yard.

Rich

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 20:45:42 -0600
From: richlars ibm.net
Subject: Re: ground strap was Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems

Erik Marquez wrote:

> Group, for those unaware.. Do you self a really big favor.. run a minimum
> of three quality (i.e. not the wimpy stock one) ground straps. Body to
> engine, body to frame, engine to frame. Multiply paths, redundancy of
> paths, and piece of mind that you will not be grounding things through
> unintended paths....speedo cable, transmission, whatever....
>
> All this of course JMHO

I whole heartedly second your HO.

Rich

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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 20:46:21 -0700
From: "Steve Schwartz"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - No Run 78 F-F250

Don,

There is a piece of resistance wire in the lead from the ignition switch,
which acts as a ballast for the coil. The lead on the solenoid bypasses
this resistor to give the coil enough voltage to start the engine while the
starter is engaged.

I have the documentation about the wire routing/color somewhere. It is
indeed under the dash, I think about 6" from the switch. I will try to find
the info. tomorrow.

Best,
Steve


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Ken Payne
> Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 1999 4:51 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - No Run 78 F-F250
>
>
> Forwarded for Don Grossman
>
>
> H*lp
>
> I was helping out a friend yesterday with a 78 F-250 It has the
> duraspark ign and such. Anyway his alternator went bad and the Reman.
> he got also went bad, internal short, and wiped out the fusible link. I
> replaced that and now there is no power to the coil in the "Run"
> position. When the key is in the start position the coil get 12V off
> the starter relay just fine. I can also use a jumper wire from the
> battery to the ignition side of the starter relay and the truck runs
> fine.
>
> So far I have narrowed it down to some where under the dash (
> connector or ignition switch) but is there a fuse or fusible link for
> just the coil power in the run position? What is the color of the wire
> from the switch to the coil? Anyone ever wonder where stuff goes when....


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