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From: owner-61-79-list-digest  ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest) To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #246 Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Errors-To: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Precedence: bulk 61-79-list-digest Thursday, July 15 1999 Volume 03 : Number 246 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 identification Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems [none] Re:FTE 61-79 - Interchange FTE 61-79 - Re: vibrations... FTE 61-79 - Hard Shiftin' FTE 61-79 - Re: - No Subject -(should have been vibrations) Re: FTE 61-79 - Hard Shiftin' FTE 61-79 - re- brake lights/turn signals FTE 61-79 - Re: Chain Reaction & Remanufactured Parts FTE 61-79 - Wheelbase FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings FTE 61-79 - Re: Low rumbling FTE 61-79 - Chain Reaction & Remanufactured Parts FTE 61-79 - RE: Aftermarket parts killing car FTE 61-79 - 9" Rear End: Left Axle Needed FTE 61-79 - 9" Read End: What years/models used? Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Rear End: Left Axle Needed Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Read End: What years/models used? Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Read End: What years/models used? Re: FTE 61-79 - 16 inch bias tires, recommendations Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Rear End: Left Axle Needed Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems FTE 61-79 - odometer roll back ground strap was Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems FTE 61-79 - brakes/turn signals FTE 61-79 - Re: 1964 F100 Front Wheel Cylinders FTE 61-79 - No Run 78 F-F250 FTE 61-79 - turn signals don't c*ncel FTE 61-79 - What's it worth? '69 f-250 Camper Special Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheelbase Re: FTE 61-79 - turn signals don't c*ncel Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1964 F100 Front Wheel Cylinders FTE 61-79 - stuck dist./bloody knuckles Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings Re: ground strap was Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems RE: FTE 61-79 - No Run 78 F-F250 Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 04:40:34 -0500 From: Michael Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 identification Look at the casting number on the block. The first letter designates the decade of manufacture. C=60's, D=70's, E=80's. The second figure will be a number which designates what year of the decade that the engine was made. R wrote: > >>I have a 1978 step side 4WD F-150. The truck originally had a I-6 engine, > >>but that was replaced with a 302 before I purchased it. I'm having trouble > >>with the starter and was told that the starters for 302s were changed around > >>1982. ie. different starter for pre-82 and post-82. My question to you is, > >>is there some identification stamped on the engine that would allow me to > >>identify how old it is. > >> > >>Thanks for your help. > >> > >>Long time lurker > >>Bonkrr > >> > >>1978 F-150 4WD > >>1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe > >>1995 Taurus SHO > >> > > > > > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 04:58:44 -0500 From: Michael Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems Check the ground staps. The battery should ground to the engine block, the block to the body and the body to the frame. IanBoss69 aol.com wrote: > Ok, Im miffed, i can't fix this darn thing, I started it one day, (I can't > remember if i already posted something about this so forgive me if i did, > theres more to the story now anyways) Went to the grocery. (2 miles) got > my stuff, came out, wouldn't start. hooked it up to a tow truck to try and > jump it, wouldn't jump it, guy said it seemed like the starter was locked up. > Spent some bucks towing it home, put a new starter on it. Wouldn't start, > just clicked like the battery was dead, battery was dead. Charged the > battery, still wouldn't start, just clicked. Got a new silenoid (spelling?), > wouldn't start, checked the connections, tested the alternator which the > shop said was like new, briefly checked over the fuses, none seemed blown, > my question to you is this,,,,whats wrong with my truck? Anybody? pretty > pretty please help me... > > Ian > 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M > members.aol.com/ianboss69/page/home.htm > True Blue Ford Blue.....and i got the blues. > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 07:57:39 -0400 From: "Sean O'Malley" Subject: [none] No, it's not the ominous rumble of my 300's exhaust. Actually, I hope it is... :) When I'm on the highway in my 78 and am cruising steady-state, 50ish or faster, I get a really deep, rumbling vibration through the whole truck. There's no "note" to the sound--IE, it's not a howl or a whine. It's a fast rumble, kinda like a drum roll on a really big bass drum. I can make it go away by either coasting or accelerating. Seems like as long as the engine is pulling, either up or down, there's no vibration. If I let the truck find its own cruising speed for a particular throttle position, there's also no vibration. That makes me think that there's some unwanted slack somewhere in the driveline that shows up as an oscillation when the crank isn't delivering torque (IE at "coasting throttle".) I'm hoping it's something reasonably simple, like u-joints. Or something that won't break for a long time, like the rear end. I'm hoping it's _not_ the crank flopping around in its bearings... Then again, it could just be some crazy acoustics in my rusted out exhaust... Any ideas? - --sean - ------------------- Sean O'Malley Ohio University Communication Network Services 740-593-1555 Fax: 740-593-1944 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 05:07:23 PDT From: "eldon eversull" Subject: Re:FTE 61-79 - Interchange >>I am thnking of putting together a page with interchange information. >>An example is my need for new drums for the '65. drums for a newer truck >>are half the cost.... Sam: Sounds like a great idea. I went to the Hollander site yesterday and they want an arm and leg for most of the interchange books. I paid $90 apiece for new rear brake drums for my 1964 f100 at the local parts place. When I later purchased rear springs from ESPO, a place in PA, they sent me a catalog that had drums for a 64 for $45. If that is closer to your price, I could look it up for you. Eldon _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 08:08:39 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: vibrations... >That makes me think that there's >some unwanted slack somewhere in the driveline that shows up as an >oscillation when the crank isn't delivering torque (IE at "coasting >throttle".) I'm hoping it's something reasonably simple, like >u-joints. Or something that won't break for a long time, like the rear >end. I'm hoping it's _not_ the crank flopping around in its bearings... > >Then again, it could just be some crazy acoustics in my rusted out >exhaust... > >Any ideas? > I would think the first step would be to isolate the problem a bit ... you can try shoving in the clutch while you're at that speed where the vibration is ... if the vibration stops, then its in the engine, if it continues, its in the driveline (IE tranny on back). If it is on the motor, it should do this in any gear and at the same number of revs. If this is true, then check that exhaust, it could be rubbing somewhere, or about to fall off! If its in the driveline, try blocking the wheels and with the tranny in neutral see how much slop you have in the drive shaft ... while you're there don't forget to check the u-joints! have you had any work done on the truck lately ? new tires or anything ? Check to be sure no weights have broken off of the rims and caused a tire to become unbalanced, I had a heck of a time with that on my last set of tires. Just some basic starting points ... Oh yeah, if your truck is a manual or a 4x4, or both, leave your hand on the gearshift while its makin this vibe ... if you can't really feel it there, then likely its not driveline related ... Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 06:50:37 -0700 From: "J.S.H." Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hard Shiftin' My 4 spd. shifts smooth as butter,except for when downshifting from 4th to 3rd.It won't go without grinding. Clutch?Syncros?(It's not operator error:) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 09:57:38 -0400 From: "Sean O'Malley" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: - No Subject -(should have been vibrations) On Wed, 14 Jul 1999 07:57:39 -0400 Sean O'Malley wrote: Sorry about the null subject, folks. I got a bounce on the first post and forgot to add a subject on my resend... - --sean == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 09:01:34 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hard Shiftin' >My 4 spd. shifts smooth as butter,except for when >downshifting from 4th to 3rd.It won't go without grinding. >Clutch?Syncros?(It's not operator error:) Have you tried double clutching, or matching the revs as you try and downshift ? This will mean less work for the syncros and hopefully smoother shifting ... Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 07:51:03 -0700 From: sparky mail.island.net Subject: FTE 61-79 - re- brake lights/turn signals >>>Wont this give you 4 brakelights when the turnsignals are off and 3 when >right or left turnsignals are on? Or is this what you want? Or am I >confused? > >Sparky, > >Yes, yes, and no. > >- -- John >jlagrone ford-trucks.com >1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) >http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm >Dearborn iron rules!!!! Right after I sent the post the light came on in my head :) That is a great idea 4 lights are much better that 2. I will probably change mine when I replace my signal light switch. Right now the brake light circuit thru it doesn't work all the time. Like I always say " this is the way I did it...... you might see a better way" Sparky 73 F250 4x4 390FE (not even close to stock) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 08:28:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Dan Lee Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Chain Reaction & Remanufactured Parts Danger I agree, there is no 'QC' in r..e..m..a..n..u..f..a..c..t..u..r..e..d. Dan Lee '53 F100 351C-4V >Parts >A short time ago, I had a problem with the right >front brakepulling on my 69 F250 which I had >previously converted to power disc brakes using all >new parts. The problem was easily solved by replacing >the new caliper(lower piston was sticking). After >using my new power brake bleeder, I took the truck in >for state safety & emissions testing and the results >showed a >difference of "-0.6%" in the left right balance of >the front brakes so I figured my problems are all >solved. > Unfortunately the high heat of the hub caused by >the faulty caliper has burnt/melted the high temp >front disc brake grease off of the bearings >because I'm now hearing a very faint squeak/chirp. >I've popped the cap off >of the rotor and noticed the grease is burnt black >where it touches the hub. Looks like I'm going to be >replacing the bearings today. >Sometimes I wonder about the value of remanufactured >parts as one faulty item can and usually does cause >damage to other related items which are not covered >by the "lifetime" warranty. I had just done an oil >change when the fuel pump malfunctioned and forced me >to change the oil again,... do you think I would have >been compensated if the engine blew up due to afaulty >fuel pump?... NOT >I'm going to have nightmares about the parts clerk >saying "here's your replacement water pump sir, sorry >about the last one ruining your brandnew engine." >Danger _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 10:54:48 -0500 From: 3granch ayrix.net Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wheelbase > Is this a long or short bed? Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" Sorry for the poor information in my original post. I was having technical difficulty posting to the list and it taken me a week to reply. Anyway, yes My F100 Supercab has a short bed with a wheelbase of 139". My 78 F250 has a long bed and a wheelbase of 133". I am throwing out these numbers from memory so I might be off. But I specifically remember checking the wheelbase length between the two of them and the Supercab is 6" longer. I just bought the Supercab in May and was going to haul it home on a 16 ft. trailer. It had been sittin in a barn for two years being used as a home for the local squirrels, what a mess!!! But we decided it was too long for the trailer so we filled the tires and pulled it 10 miles home. Ronnie Rowton Braxton, MS 78 F250 4WD 351M NP435 76 F100 2WD 360 C? (Parts, looking to trade 360/C? for 351M and a rust free bed) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 12:01:54 -0400 From: "Marvin Meyer" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings Hi ya'll; i'm new to the list and thought I could throw my 2 cents worth in now. In along the lines of the bearing Dept. (which is where I work F.A.G. Bearings Ltd) On the 3/4 & 1 tons, I have played with, I have noticed the infamous chisel marks on the nuts and how loose the nuts are. At 60-MPH the peripheral speed of the wheel is fast and the vibrations are severe on the 2.25" tapered rollers. When tightening up the wheel with the proper 2-9/16" socket torque to 60 ft/lbs. then back off 1/4 turn. When installing the second lock nut torque this one around 75 ft/lbs. By the initial setting you are, forcing the rollers to set themselves in the raceway, and backing off 3/8 -1/4 of a turn ensures the proper clearance for heat expansion. These are full floating hubs, but the grease is there for immediate protection and the axle lube is there for high-speed protection. Bearings tell a story, of how well things are going. Look at the rollers for discoloration, pitting. Look at the inner ring race way for the same stuff. By using a chisel, the chips of steel are laying in the hub core, and in due time, it will introduce itself to the rollers. Up here in Canada commertial vehicles have to go through an anual saftey inspection and braking systems are scrutinized. I just rebuilt a Dana 70 that a Class-A mechanic shop was servicing most of it's life, and the chip's were in Marvin Meyer Stratford, Ont Machinist, Tool & Die, 4th Class Eng, Millwright And still Learning!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 13:31:22 -0400 From: David Wadson Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Low rumbling >No, it's not the ominous rumble of my 300's exhaust. Actually, I hope >it is... :) > >When I'm on the highway in my 78 and am cruising steady-state, 50ish or >faster, I get a really deep, rumbling vibration through the whole truck. >There's no "note" to the sound--IE, it's not a howl or a whine. It's a >fast rumble, kinda like a drum roll on a really big bass drum. I can >make it go away by either coasting or accelerating. Seems like as long >as the engine is pulling, either up or down, there's no vibration. If >I let the truck find its own cruising speed for a particular throttle >position, there's also no vibration. That makes me think that there's >some unwanted slack somewhere in the driveline that shows up as an >oscillation when the crank isn't delivering torque (IE at "coasting >throttle".) I'm hoping it's something reasonably simple, like >u-joints. Or something that won't break for a long time, like the rear >end. I'm hoping it's _not_ the crank flopping around in its bearings... I had a similar sort of problem in my truck and it turned out to be my driveshaft and the yoke on it. The driveshaft I had gotten was shorter but the yoke was longer so I figured it would work out all right. While I think the overall length was OK, it turns out that the splines in the yoke didn't run the whole length of it - they started about 3 inches into the yoke. Because of that, the splines were just barely mating up with the transmission. End result - the yoke was vibrating especially at highway speed. Once I got a proper length driveshaft and yoke, the problem went away. Crawl underneath and play around with your driveshaft - that's probably where the problem is... David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca "PS2" - 78 F100/302/C4 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 13:02:57 -0500 From: "John LaGrone" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Chain Reaction & Remanufactured Parts >>Sometimes I wonder about the value of remanufactured parts as one faulty item can and usually does cause damage to other related items which are not covered by the "lifetime" warranty. Danger, This is true. But even brand new parts can be defective. Personally, I would rather hve a rebuilt OEM part on something like a water pump than a new casting from across the Pacific that looks like Godzilla's back on the outside and who knows what on the inside. Speaking of water pumps, the one on my Dad's special order brand new 69 lasted 123 miles. Course it was a G#C. - -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com 1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 14:00:51 -0400 From: "George W. Selby, III" Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Aftermarket parts killing car The valve cover seal on my Nissan failed 1 day after I installed it. It leaked oil on the timing belt, the teeth broke off the timing belt, the vavles smacked into the pistons, dead engine, Went to the advance auto, and they said exactly what you imagined, "Sorry about your engine, here's a new valve cover gasket." George Selby 78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4 86 Audi 4000CS Quattro IsuzuG prodigy.net == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 11:52:24 -0700 From: "Jeff Carver" Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" Rear End: Left Axle Needed Just talked to the shop about my '64 CrewCab. The gap between the brake drum and backing plate is caused by a bad axle! Does anybody have a left axle for a 9" rear end hanging around or lying around that I could get my hands on soon? A new axle would cost around $250. How about a whole rear end in good shape? I promise it will go to a good cause, my Ford truck. I'm in the Sacramento area. I wonder if the axle is the cause of the weird clunking sound I got when going around corners, instead of the spring bushings? The bushings were shot anyway and the front springs were flat, so they needed to be replaced. Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab Get your FREE Email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mailcity.lycos.com Get your PERSONALIZED START PAGE at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://my.lycos.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 12:22:49 -0700 From: "Jeff Carver" Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" Read End: What years/models used? Since I may have to go junkyarding to find axles for my truck, what years would be compatible with my '64 F100, what about models? I should be a 9" rear end. Did this come in cars too? or were they a lighter version. Same axle used in F250's? It seems that carrying a 3/4 ton (dry weight) camper on a 1/2 ton already-at-GVW truck managed to crush the left axle! Duh! I assume that since I was able to remove the right axle bearing at home with no special tools, the right side would be in a similar crushed condition. Ford tough. It has been driven this way for the last 20 years! Anybody have a right axle?! Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab Get your FREE Email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mailcity.lycos.com Get your PERSONALIZED START PAGE at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://my.lycos.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 23:30:12 -0800 From: "Erik Marquez" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Rear End: Left Axle Needed - -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Carver snip >Does anybody have a left axle for a 9" rear end >hanging around or lying around that I could get >my hands on soon? A new axle would cost around >$250. Check some place else.. A new 9" axle shaft (minus bearing, seal and retainer) should not cost you more than $125. If I can get them in Alaska for less then that, you should be able to also. BTW want an idea on the markup on that piece...I pay emploee cost of $70 he sells them out the door to every one else for $110. I would be happy to give ya my extra... in fact we could save on shipping........ I'll send you one piece at a time ! Would you like the smaller of the two pieces first :-) Erik Marquez bronco78 mosquitonet.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78 Home of the BB decal Bronco 78 in the BB chat room == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 23:32:50 -0800 From: "Erik Marquez" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Read End: What years/models used? - -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Carver >Since I may have to go junkyarding to find axles for >my truck, what years would be compatible with my >'64 F100, what about models? I should be a 9" rear >end. Did this come in cars too? or were they a >lighter version. Caution, research this one.. There is a small bearing 9" used in many early apps. Not sure if this applies to your truck or not,, But is something you need to check to avoid return trips. Erik Marquez bronco78 mosquitonet.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78 Home of the BB decal Bronco 78 in the BB chat room == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 15:40:52 EDT From: TBeeee aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Read End: What years/models used? In a message dated 7/14/99 3:26:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, truck.carver mailcity.com writes: > Since I may have to go junkyarding to find axles for > my truck, what years would be compatible with my > '64 F100, what about models? Jeff: I can run down some specs if you would like. Just send me all the data from yuor Vin Plate and/or axle tag. Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 12:59:01 -0700 From: Brian Koss Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 16 inch bias tires, recommendations When I was looking (a year ago) you could get Goodyear Workhorse tires for about $62 a piece. The bias were about $5 less than radials. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 14:01:09 -0700 From: "Danger" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" Rear End: Left Axle Needed Jeff Carver wrote... > Does anybody have a left axle for a 9" rear end > hanging around or lying around that I could get > my hands on soon? A new axle would cost around > $250. > > How about a whole rear end in good shape? > > I promise it will go to a good cause, my Ford truck. > I'm in the Sacramento area. .............. It's too bad your so far from SLC, Utah as there is a 65 F100 with a Dana 60-2 Power Loc Posi rear that you could get for $500 or less for the whole truck. Unfortunately the truck is pretty beat up, but it does have a nice rear axle assembly, and the tires and the grille looked pretty nice also. Danger danger csolutions.net == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 16:41:12 EDT From: IanBoss69 aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems ok i cant find a ground from the engine to the frame anywhere, i looked for an half hour, under, over, to each side of the engine, cant find nuttin. anyways i got a new solinoid/starter wire today, lights decided to come back on after i had the starter tested again and installed the new wire, and hooked up the battery == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 15:50:28 -0500 From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems IanBoss69 aol.com wrote: > > ok i cant find a ground from the engine to the frame anywhere, i looked for > an half hour, under, over, to each side of the engine, cant find nuttin. There should be a ground wire on the back if the intake manifold running to the firewall. If there's not, you should add one. It should clear up your problems. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 15:59:43 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems >ok i cant find a ground from the engine to the frame anywhere, i looked for >an half hour, under, over, to each side of the engine, cant find nuttin. >anyways i got a new solinoid/starter wire today, lights decided to come back >on after i had the starter tested again and installed the new wire, and >hooked up the battery Ian, follow the (-) cable on your battery ... usually it runs down to the frame though a loop there (sometimes its bolted to the frame here too), then it should run from there to the motor, usually the front of the head ... if this is missing it will be hard for the motor to start ... There is also sometimes another grounding wire at the back of the pass. side head (though it can move around to intake and probably over to driver's side) but it should go from the back of the motor to the firewall, or another suitable grounding place. Mine's missing, but you can pick them up from the local parts store, just be sure they are big enough to carry lots of current. I think I'm gonna get a nice braided one if I can find it :) Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 16:12:18 -0500 From: "John LaGrone" Subject: FTE 61-79 - odometer roll back >>Its nice to know about how many miles a truck has on it, but that is just part of what I use when evaluating a truck's "state". True, true, Bryan. My idea of a frame off resto that would qualify as a go to zero would be something like Stu has done (is doing? I forget). If everything, and I mean everything, has been put back to factory specs, then the former life is almost irrelevant. - -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com 1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 01:11:56 -0800 From: "Erik Marquez" Subject: ground strap was Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems Group, for those unaware.. Do you self a really big favor.. run a minimum of three quality (i.e. not the wimpy stock one) ground straps. Body to engine, body to frame, engine to frame. Multiply paths, redundancy of paths, and piece of mind that you will not be grounding things through unintended paths....speedo cable, transmission, whatever.... All this of course JMHO Erik Marquez bronco78 mosquitonet.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78 Home of the BB decal Bronco 78 in the BB chat room == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 16:25:36 -0500 From: "John LaGrone" Subject: FTE 61-79 - brakes/turn signals Sparky, When you did your conversion, didn't you say you cut the new hole below the seperator? This would make the new light shine behind the reflector, which is not a problem, but how do you keep the new light from shining out the backup light lense? A white light to the rear except when going backwards is ticketable in Texas. - -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com 1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 14:36:21 -0700 From: Vogt Family Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1964 F100 Front Wheel Cylinders On Tue, 13 Jul 1999, TBeeee aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 7/13/99 11:34:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > truck.carver mailcity.com writes: > > > > > Oh yeah, the shop quotedme $92 each for the front > > brake cylinders! Anybody have a different price? > > Jeff: > That price may not be too far out of line if your getting NOS Ford > stuff. However, you should be able to get reman/aftermarket stuff much > cheaper. For instance Autokrafters has a front cylinder for a 65-67 at 37.95 > each. The catalog I have doesn't list a 64 2wd application, but you might > call them. A 1997 Mac's Antique Auto catalog has them for 39.95. Shop > around these are only two of many suppliers out there. I hope this helps and > let me know if you need any further info. I also have one of these and I just rebuilt the master cylinder because of the price. If I was going to replace it I would be strongly tempted to use a dual model from something else, for safety reasons. Birken == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 19:51:21 -0400 From: Ken Payne Subject: FTE 61-79 - No Run 78 F-F250 Forwarded for Don Grossman H*lp I was helping out a friend yesterday with a 78 F-250 It has the duraspark ign and such. Anyway his alternator went bad and the Reman. he got also went bad, internal short, and wiped out the fusible link. I replaced that and now there is no power to the coil in the "Run" position. When the key is in the start position the coil get 12V off the starter relay just fine. I can also use a jumper wire from the battery to the ignition side of the starter relay and the truck runs fine. So far I have narrowed it down to some where under the dash ( connector or ignition switch) but is there a fuse or fusible link for just the coil power in the run position? What is the color of the wire from the switch to the coil? Anyone ever wonder where stuff goes when you need it, can't find my Haynes Manual anywhere. Thanks - -- Don Grossman duckdon pacific.net 99 Contour 63 F-100 4x4 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 19:52:50 -0400 From: Ken Payne Subject: FTE 61-79 - turn signals don't c*ncel Forwarded for "eldon eversull" My turn signals don't c*ncel on my 1964 f100. I assumed the plastic cam was broken, but when I pulled the wheel last weekend, it was in fine shape. I looked in my shop manual and the pile of catalogs I have, but can't figure out what is missing. There is a c*ncellation collar on the back side of the steering wheel that has an opening that looks like some kind of pin should be in it to come in contact with the turn signal cam. I assume if I put a metal pin in the collar that it will soon eat up the cam. I am thinking of trying to put a nylon bolt in the collar to trigger the cam. Does anyone know what originally was in that collar or how I could make the turn signals c*ncel? TIA Eldon, 1964 f100 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 20:38:37 -0400 From: Bill Subject: FTE 61-79 - What's it worth? '69 f-250 Camper Special Hello to All: First, thanks in advance for reading this. Second, this is the first time around on this list, so I hope this is appropriate. The Truck: F-250 Camper Special 360 C.I.D 4-spd top loader (assuming that it's a BW T-18) 4.10 or 4.11 rears (need to research vin plate to know for sure) 43,000 original two owner (three counting me) miles. This truck is completely factory original. The interior is remarkably clean (black dash, shiny, not cracked. White buckets that are very white,etc. Black carpets Factory Air (mechanicals/electrical work, no gas) The body is remarkably clean. Two slight (and I mean slight) dings on hood. And a very slight crease (about 1 inch) on the right door where the west coast mirror meets the door. The paint (med. beige) still has a little shine to it, but has a lot of oxidation. Looks good for 30 years old. The undercarriage is as new. Cab mounts, rockers, door bottoms, etc.....all as new. The truck was undercoated and Ziebarted when it was purchased in '69 I bought this from a neighbor a few weeks ago. My intention was to use it as a work truck, but since then have been told by many it would be a shame to put this ol' girl into the salt this winter. I didn't intend to buy a "classic". Anyway the truck has had 15,000 miles put on it since 1973. The guy I bought it from has put 500 miles a year on it to go hunting each fall. A few years ago he dropped about 3k (I have the receipts) into it to have everything on the bottom of the truck replaced that wasn't undercoated (oil pan, cables, exhaust manifolds, calipers, wheel cylinders,exhaust sys., etc.). Presently, I'm having a valve job done to it (sat for about a year, valves sit seized I think). Heads are off as we speak and the bottom look very good (no ridge on the tops of the cylinders, etc.) Also, just put a brand new set of 16.5 X 9.50 Coopers under it. The only rust on this truck is the battery box and a 4" diameter hole thru the inner fender under the battery box. Otherwise, no rust. So what's reasonable to ask? I have no idea what the market is for this old beast. Thanks again. Bill == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 20:43:18 EDT From: JUMPINFORD aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheelbase In a message dated 7/14/99 9:02:25 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 3granch ayrix.net writes: > Thats just what I wanted to hear. I like the looks of the Super Cab Step sides, and was thinking of making Tweety into one. And sense my wheelbase is 140" I think I could do it rather easily. And Id still have the one ton. Hmm, nuther project to mull over. Thanks again for the info. Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 19:53:09 -0700 From: "Danger" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - turn signals don't c*ncel Eldon wrote... > My turn signals don't c*ncel on my 1964 f100. I assumed the plastic cam was > broken, but when I pulled the wheel last weekend, it was in fine shape. I > looked in my shop manual and the pile of catalogs I have, but can't figure > out what is missing. .......... I know that if the gap is to large between the steering wheel and column collar then the turn signals will not return to the neutral position. Perhaps the problem lies in the lower bearings of the steering column? Danger == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 20:21:26 -0600 From: richlars ibm.net Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1964 F100 Front Wheel Cylinders > I also have one of these and I just rebuilt the master cylinder because > of the price. If I was going to replace it I would be strongly tempted > to use a dual model from something else, for safety reasons. I have a '62 F-250 and have often wonders if this was possible to do. What model cylinder would you use? Rich == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 02:23:10 GMT From: "Brian Vance" Subject: FTE 61-79 - stuck dist./bloody knuckles I need some shoulders to cry on. I remember reading about this some time ago. My 77 351M has bean knocking a little upon slow acceleration and when I go up hills. I decided to check the timing after reading alot of posts on the subject here. I found my marks after looking and looking. I painted a dot on "0". Hooked everything up and started the engine. The timing light dial was on zero. I started turning the dial and when the arrow was lined up with "0" on the rotor, the dial on the light said 45. And this was on the ATC side. This means my timing is 45 degrees ATC right? I then disconnected the vac adv line and plugged the end up and tried it again but nothing changed. I don't know for sure what my timing should be but I knew right away this was way too much. I was all happy thinking I was on to something. My advance wasn't stuck or anything because a hooked up a hose to it and sucked on it and the plate inside moved fine. So I got out the wrench and to my suprise the hold down on the dist was already loose. Why? Because there is no way the g# d # thing would ever turn, no matter what happened. There is a small notch that sticks out from the dist on the drivers side, it already has hammer marks all over it. I hit it with a hammer for a while and I couldnt get it to budge. I even tried prying with a bar between it and the intake. Am I right that the timing is way off? How should I get the dist loose? Should I take it to the Ford garage and tell them I want my timing done (and not say anything else)? This is one of the very few times I got truly mad at the truck. I really need everyones help on this one. Thanks alot for any ideas. Brian 77 F250 4X4 351M _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 20:43:54 -0600 From: richlars ibm.net Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Bearings Marvin Meyer wrote: > Hi ya'll; i'm new to the list and thought I could throw my 2 cents worth in > now. > In along the lines of the bearing Dept. (which is where I work F.A.G. > Bearings Ltd) Thank you very much for taking the time to write this. I recently helped a neighbor kid whos father had passed away and left him with his '74 Hi-Boy and the kid beat it to death. One day when rounding the corner he lost power and looked in his rear view mirror to see his axle sticking out about 2 feet. Everything was pretty trashed so I got new bearings and seals and put it back pretty much the way you discribed. I had to JB Weld the race back into the hub as it had worn completely free. I wouldn't do this except the way the kid beat the poor ol' thing I didn't figure it would last long anyway. Sure 'nuf, it now sits with a blown clutch and a kid without the funds to fix it up. Probably on its way to the bone yard. Rich == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 20:45:42 -0600 From: richlars ibm.net Subject: Re: ground strap was Re: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems Erik Marquez wrote: > Group, for those unaware.. Do you self a really big favor.. run a minimum > of three quality (i.e. not the wimpy stock one) ground straps. Body to > engine, body to frame, engine to frame. Multiply paths, redundancy of > paths, and piece of mind that you will not be grounding things through > unintended paths....speedo cable, transmission, whatever.... > > All this of course JMHO I whole heartedly second your HO. Rich == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 20:46:21 -0700 From: "Steve Schwartz" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - No Run 78 F-F250 Don, There is a piece of resistance wire in the lead from the ignition switch, which acts as a ballast for the coil. The lead on the solenoid bypasses this resistor to give the coil enough voltage to start the engine while the starter is engaged. I have the documentation about the wire routing/color somewhere. It is indeed under the dash, I think about 6" from the switch. I will try to find the info. tomorrow. Best, Steve > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com > [mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Ken Payne > Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 1999 4:51 PM > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com > Subject: FTE 61-79 - No Run 78 F-F250 > > > Forwarded for Don Grossman > > > H*lp > > I was helping out a friend yesterday with a 78 F-250 It has the > duraspark ign and such. Anyway his alternator went bad and the Reman. > he got also went bad, internal short, and wiped out the fusible link. I > replaced that and now there is no power to the coil in the "Run" > position. When the key is in the start position the coil get 12V off > the starter relay just fine. I can also use a jumper wire from the > battery to the ignition side of the starter relay and the truck runs > fine. > > So far I have narrowed it down to some where under the dash ( > connector or ignition switch) but is there a fuse or fusible link for > just the coil power in the run position? What is the color of the wire > from the switch to the coil? Anyone ever wonder where stuff goes when.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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