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From: owner-61-79-list-digest To: 61-79-list-digest Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #243 Reply-To: 61-79-list Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest Errors-To: owner-61-79-list-digest Precedence: bulk 61-79-list-digest Monday, July 12 1999 Volume 03 : Number 243 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? FTE 61-79 - starting problems FTE 61-79 - FE Availability FTE 61-79 - Starting problems Re: FTE 61-79 - FE availability and 203's Re: FTE 61-79 - leinholder Re: FTE 61-79 - speedometer cable swap? Re: FTE 61-79 - speedometer cable swap? Re: FTE 61-79 - How do I remove bed Bolts???? Re: FTE 61-79 - wheels FTE 61-79 - starting problems FTE 61-79 - FE's in '76 ? FTE 61-79 - random stalling RE: FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? Re: FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? FTE 61-79 - re: brake/turn signals FTE 61-79 - Re: WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? FTE 61-79 - '76 FE - RIP Re: FTE 61-79 - leinholder Re: FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? Re: FTE 61-79 - '76 FE - RIP FTE 61-79 - No Truck today !!! Re: FTE 61-79 - "Nut Crackers" are Sweet Re: FTE 61-79 - I have power steering! Re: FTE 61-79 - I have power steering! Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Vacuum Advance FTE 61-79 - built ford tough? Re: FTE 61-79 - 4x4 usage Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6 Transmission slippage Re: FTE 61-79 - FE availability Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 Re: FTE 61-79 - 4x4 usage FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 Re: FTE 61-79 - built ford tough? FTE 61-79 - Re WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? Re: FTE 61-79 - FE availability and 203's FTE 61-79 - Rear End swap FTE 61-79 - Ranger question FTE 61-79 - Vacuum advance problem Re: FTE 61-79 - starting problems Re: FTE 61-79 - Ranger question Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? FTE 61-79 - Re: Cummins 4BT to NP435 ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 07:13:12 -0400 From: David Wadson Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? >Ok hey y'all, I love mah truck and all but lately she makes me wanna sell her >to the junkyard! OK here's what happened, a few days ago I was drivin along >just fine till she kinda sputtered and when I gave her gas she didn't >accelerate. I kinda puttered to the side of the road and turned the ignition >off. AFter waiting a few minutes it started right up again and was fine, >except for the fact that my blinkers didn't work. So I guess a fuse was >loose. Dad said he fixed it and then today I was on my way to a rodeo >places!> and she did the same thing goin up a hill >steering wheel kinda locked up> WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? The thing that >bugs me most is that after a second of sittin there she'll run fine then >outta the blue she'll embarrass me by stallin on the side of the road! Don't worry - we all feel that way about our trucks - it's part of the joy of owning a 20+ year old vehicle. Bad spark plug wires, loose ground, old cap and rotor on the distributor, etc. are all good possibilities. Shortly after getting my first truck, I had similar trouble with it stalling out on me only to start right back up after 10 minutes of cursing it. Even did it once about 10 minutes after I got it back from the mechanic for a tuneup to figure out why it was stallling! Turns out my ignition module was getting kind of flakey - replaced it with one from a spare truck my buddy had and never had the problem again. Hmmm...got the ignition module for free but ended up buying that truck a few years later... Another possibility might be vapour lock in your gas line or a bad fuel pump. I don't think the blinker problem is a cause of the stalling - maybe just a by product of the stalling? The steering wheel locking up is the sudden loss of power steering - a seasoned veteran of a stalling truck gets pretty good at strong arming the truck to the side of the road. :-) As for the embarassment, your best bet is to try not to look too helpless when you're at the side of the road. Instead, direct anger and frustration at the truck so you look less pathetic and more like an extremely knowledgeable truck owner and it's only by some twisted act of God that your truck could possible die... David Wadson - wadsond "PS2" - 78 F100/302/C4 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 07:30:36 -0500 From: "John LaGrone" Subject: FTE 61-79 - starting problems >>Since you have replaced everything except the wiring, I suggest you check the big ole wire that goes from the battery to the solenoid, and then the big ole wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter. Probably loose/corroded in the crimped-on lug at one of the four ends on the two wires. Yank on 'em and see if you can pull anything loose. Ian, You probably have either corroded battery terminals or more likely a bad battery. Get a known good battery and try it. If your battery is shorted a certain way, it won't allow you to jump the truck off. 98% of starting problems can be resolved by replacing the battery. If you do buy a new battery, don't scrimp. Get one with plenty of CCA and if you are four wheeling, look for one that can withstand the abuse. - -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 08:01:32 -0500 From: John Strauss Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Availability > My records show the following for FE's in trucks: > > 352 used from 65 thru 67 > 360 used from 68 thru 72 > 390 used from 68 thru 74 > > I saw that someone reported that the 390 was used thru 76. Can anyone > confirm this? ............ The 352 was used 65-67, the 360/390 was used 68-76. In 77, the 351M/400 replaced the FEs due to emissions regulations. _ _| ~~. John Strauss \, *_} jstrauss \( Texas Fight! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 08:24:36 -0500 From: JOHN E DOLSON Subject: FTE 61-79 - Starting problems You can't really tell a bad connection just by looking at it. If you have access to a Voltmeter, you can test resistance through a connection, or wire, by performing a voltage drop test. 1: make sure you are measuring volts 2: put one lead on one side of the connection (battery terminal) 3:put the other lead on the other side of the connection (battery cable) 4: have someone try to start the truck as you watch the meter 5:If the meter shows a reading of more than 0.5 volts ( or -0.5v --leads reversed) the connection has too much resistance in it. This test can be Used on any connection or wire. Hope this helps some, John Dolson Jefferson City, MO 1976 F150 Ranger XLT ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 08:18:47 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE availability and 203's >I saw that someone reported that the 390 was used thru 76. Can anyone >confirm this? > Sure Tim, how about if Tony and I each have one ? Actually he has a 360 since the 390 was not available in 4wd versions ... so the 360 should be listed through 76 for 4x4's. Also I was wondering if all the autos got the full time 4wd ... the way it looks in the Red Book, it sounds almost like this is true ... Anyone got a manual with a 203 or an auto with a 205 ?? (factory of course) ... Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 09:24:56 -0400 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - leinholder John LaGrone wrote: > > >>You can put yourself down as a leinholder and the lean could be > anything you want. Technical "owner" can't do anything with it until the > lean is satified. > > True, Ox, this is another possibility, but lienholder makes you legally > responsible. In Texas, the lienholder is the real owner. Thats fine, cause that would be me, but I would not put my vehicle in another owners name anyway. > Now the idea of a second home in another state has some pitfalls, too. Pick > a state that doesn't have income tax. If you claim residency for the > purposes of registering your truck, you will probably set yourself up to > come under their jurisdiction in other areas as well. Face it Ox, if they > don't get us coming, they will get us going. Yeah, I hear you, but in my case, buying land in say NC, would be a first step to getting out of the most restrictive state against the "automotive hobbyist". Are you saying someone with houses on both coasts has to pay double income tax for both states? > I don't think you can be a dual resident of two states as far as the legal > definition goes. I don't want to be, but "somebody" must keep a car in CO at their trialer in the woods used for hunting that lives full time in NJ (somoen who flys out there, but needs a car when they get there). Does that mean once a year they have to drive that car to NJ to get it inspected, even if it is garaged in CO. NJ insurance companies would not insure a vehicle that is garaged in CO. The military folks around here have to claim a "home of > record". This exempts them from many of the local and state regulations. For > instance a soldier from Iowa doesn't have to get his car inspected in Texas > and can drive with an expired license for so many days, I think about 90. But that is different. I'm talking about permananetly garaging a car used out of state at my "other residence". Once in a while, I might bring it to NJ to do major work to it :-) I would not be getting two liscences. OX == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 08:27:37 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - speedometer cable swap? >instrument cluster end, and I'm pretty sure my 69 speedo has a "screw on" >dealy receptacle.... > >Don't think the old one will work in the new transfer case since it will be >too short.... > >Anyone dealt with this, or maybe had a custom one made??? > Man, haven't seen one of these in ages! Check the local autoparts store though, they may be able to order in the screw on ones if they don't have them in stock ... they can also get a couple different lengths too. Seems like we ordered one in once when I was a parts monkey ... Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 08:28:12 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - speedometer cable swap? Oh yeah, don't forget to check your dash to be sure before you get the cable, wouldn't want to get it ordered in and then find out you were thinkin of a different truck ... Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 08:31:14 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How do I remove bed Bolts???? >bolt. Then you'd use a chisel to pry the nut away from the bolt. This >allows you to recycle the bolts. What.....you don't have a torch? No >aresenal is complete without the poor-man's torch. A chisel and a BFH. Use >it to "crack" the nut by striking it at a 90 degree angle to the bolt. Crude >but very effective. > I have seen a set of "nut crackers" that are designed to do just that, a bit less crude and just as effective.... they consist of a loop of steel (cast usually) with a bolt that threads into one side ... then there is a wedge shape that actually sits against the nut ... crank down on the bolt and it will drive this wedge into the nut til you hear a "pop" or "crack" or any other of a number of different sounds as the bolt cracks ... then just unscrew it with an oversized socket, or crack the other side too and it should fall off (may need some persuading ...) I think we picked them up at a discount tool place, dunno if they have them large enough for bed bolts, but I would think you could find one somewhere ... Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 08:32:58 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - wheels >Thats them wish, i never looked real close, assumed they were wheels, think >they'd have 16.5" ones ? ill have to call around, thanks fro clearing that >up. > Hmmm... dunno about 16.5" ... seems like the ones we have are both 16's, but a call will tell you for sure if you can get them or not ... good luck gettin the hole in the front for the 4x4 version too ... As for your starting issues, I think John is right on the nose with it, get a known good battery and try it again ... mine was so dead one time a jump wouldn't even turn the starter over, a new battery (975 amps:) and it started fine ... Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 09:23:59 -0500 From: "John LaGrone" Subject: FTE 61-79 - starting problems Ian, I have now read the rest of Sunday's digest. IMHO you need a new battery. Everything you describe cries out open cell. I still urge you to try on off of another truck before you go buy one, though. You said you charged your battery. With what kind of charger? Did all six cells boil equally while charging? If one cell didn't boil, there is your problem. BTW, disconnect the battery from the truck while charging it. On a true discharged but otherwise good battery, the charger should start at full charge, then gradually drift down to a trickle. If you put the charger on and the needle bounces on and off of zero, throw the battery away (figure of speech, recycle it). If the charger doesn't drop down a lot after about an hour, same advice. If your charger is trickle only, doesn't have a meter, etc. all bets are off. A good charger runs between $40 and $100 and will pay for itself over the years. - -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 10:51:07 -0400 From: "Serian" Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE's in '76 ? > I saw that someone reported that the 390 > was used thru 76. Can anyone confirm this? According to my Chilton's manual, both the 360 and 390 were used until '76, and according to the '76 F250 in my yard, the 360 definitely was used in '76. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 11:03:06 -0400 From: "Serian" Subject: FTE 61-79 - random stalling > Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 02:44:41 EDT > From: Bad4dFilly > Subject: FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? > > Ok hey y'all, I love mah truck and all but lately > she makes me wanna sell her to the junkyard! > OK here's what happened, a few days ago I was > drivin along just fine till she kinda sputtered and > when I gave her gas she didn't accelerate. I kinda > puttered to the side of the road and turned the ignition > off. AFter waiting a few minutes it started right up > again and was fine, except for the fact that my > blinkers didn't work. So I guess a fuse was loose. > Dad said he fixed it and then today I was on my way > to a rodeo and she did the same thing > goin up a hill > locked up> WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? The thing > that bugs me most is that after a second of sittin there > she'll run fine then outta the blue she'll embarrass me > by stallin on the side of the road! It sounds like the culprit is the DuraSpark II ignition module. Also, try changing the fuel filter, and check the connections on your ignition switch for corrosion and loose contacts. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 09:06:43 -0600 From: "Berkeley, Dan" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? I had a similar trouble. Engine would cut out, then back on, loss of power, flaky behavior. It would always happen after a pot hole, or bad dip, rough road, curb check (not me, some other driver) , or some kind of bump. but not always, and sometimes a good bump would cure it. Turns out it was a little piece of metal in the distributor - the bounce would short out the points. And I had swapped out the points trying to diagnose it. The caca was loose in there, but was in the bottom and still when I was looking at it. Since then, I always use the shop vac in the distributor, or other places where loose caca can hide when they are open. I never did figure out how it got in there! Dan 78 f100 2wd. - -----Original Message----- From: Bad4dFilly Sent: Monday, July 12, 1999 12:45 AM To: 61-79-list Subject: FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? Ok hey y'all, I love mah truck and all but lately she makes me wanna sell her to the junkyard! OK here's what happened, a few days ago I was drivin along just fine till she kinda sputtered and when I gave her gas she didn't accelerate. I kinda puttered to the side of the road and turned the ignition off. AFter waiting a few minutes it started right up again and was fine, except for the fact that my blinkers didn't work. So I guess a fuse was loose. Dad said he fixed it and then today I was on my way to a rodeo all places!> and she did the same thing goin up a hill steering wheel kinda locked up> WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? The thing that bugs me most is that after a second of sittin there she'll run fine then outta the blue she'll embarrass me by stallin on the side of the road! Imagine that, my big bad Ford.....Found On Road Dead!>...GRRRR! I figure its gotta do something with a fuse? Any suggestions would me much appreciated! I can't be late to another rodeo! HeHe! Thanks y'all! Oh and on a side note, I got my CB today and I am hookin it up tomorrow so keep your ears peeled for "Ford Filly" cuz I'm gonna be on the loose! =P *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~* *~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS~*~* == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 08:12:09 -0700 From: "James A. Doty" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? Hi there: I had a simular problem last year with my '78 E-150. I'd be driving along and the engine would either sputter or would actually die completely. If I was still moving when the engine died I'd just put the van in nuetral and start it right up. One day while sitting at a light I bumped the key in the ignition switch and it sputtered again. After playing around a bit I discovered that I could kill the engine just by wiggling the key. The next day I replaced the ignition switch and the problem went away. I don't know if this will help, but I thought it might. James A. Doty dotyj http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~dotyj Bad4dFilly > Ok hey y'all, I love mah truck and all but lately she makes me wanna sell her > to the junkyard! OK here's what happened, a few days ago I was drivin along > just fine till she kinda sputtered and when I gave her gas she didn't > accelerate. I kinda puttered to the side of the road and turned the ignition > off. AFter waiting a few minutes it started right up again and was fine, > except for the fact that my blinkers didn't work. So I guess a fuse was > loose. Dad said he fixed it and then today I was on my way to a rodeo > places!> and she did the same thing goin up a hill > steering wheel kinda locked up> WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? The thing that > bugs me most is that after a second of sittin there she'll run fine then > outta the blue she'll embarrass me by stallin on the side of the road! > Imagine that, my big bad Ford.....Found On Road Dead!>...GRRRR! I figure its > gotta do something with a fuse? Any suggestions would me much appreciated! I > can't be late to another rodeo! HeHe! Thanks y'all! Oh and on a side note, I > got my CB today and I am hookin it up tomorrow so keep your ears > peeled for "Ford Filly" cuz I'm gonna be on the loose! =P > > *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~* > *~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS~*~* > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 08:44:33 -0700 From: sparky Subject: FTE 61-79 - re: brake/turn signals jlagrone >You basically did what I suggested as far as wiring goes at the brake light >switch. If I do mine, I will probably not add a new 12+ line. I am sure the >other wire goes to the turn signal switch. I take it your turn signals still >work. The bulbs must feed from a different 12+ wire when used as turn >signals. You are correct. The brake light switch is feed 12+ from the 4way flashers fuse. When you press the brake pedal this 12+ is sent thru the brake light switch up to the signal light switch. There if the signal light switch is in neutral(not selected right or left) the 12+ is sent out both the right and left rear turn signal power feed wires and both rear lights light up. If the turn signal switch is selected right or left the 12+ from the brakelights cant go to that particular bulb. It is all accomplished, on my truck anyway unsure if all are the same, by a couple of platic cams and 3 "scientifically engineered" bent pieces of approx .060 single strand wire inside the turn signal switch assembly. I routed a new power feed because: (a) my brake lights were not working sometimes as the bent wires werent always touching when they were supposed to and (b) I didnt really like the way the brakelight power was feed thru so many junction points, the less to fail in an emergency system the better IMHO. >Next I will tap into the wire that runs >between the brake light switch and the turn signal switch, running it to the >rear of the truck. There it will split to each side to feed the new bulbs. >This setup should allow the originals to function as they are now and the >new bulbs to perform as brake lights only. Wont this give you 4 brakelights when the turnsignals are off and 3 when right or left turnsignals are on? Or is this what you want? Or am I confused? >Congratulations on your successful conversion and thanks for sharing. Thanks and sharing is no problem. My Mom always made us kids share :) Sparky 73 F250 4x4 390FE == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 09:00:45 -0700 From: djohnson Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? Lisa, You didn't specify what year your truck is. My one guess would be the ignition module. I have a 79 F150 with the Duraspark system, did the same kind of thing. Sputtered like it was lean, then quit. Five minutes later would fire right up and drive till the module got hot again and quit. Two options: 1) Have the module tested and replace if necessary, then keep a bottle of water handy for when it does it again (pour water on it to cool), or 2)Try going with a different ignition setup. I spent about 200 bucks total and dropped in a Mallory ProComp and haven't had a problem since, even gained a few ponies too. Good luck! Doug 'DOC' Johnson Behind every live Marine is a Corpsman... == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 12:07:36 -0400 From: Tony Marino Subject: FTE 61-79 - '76 FE - RIP HAD-- HAD a 360 Wish!!! 8-) Yesterday after a fun filled day of turning wrenches and bloodying knuckles, I removed my little smog factory out of my new truck.. What I found completely blew my mind away. Keith and I took the valve covers off of the motor while it was sitting on the ground, and low and behold it was a beautifully clean engine inside, but futher inspecting the head, there were 5 valve seals that were completely gone off of the stems, and the parts and flakes of the old rubber were in the corner of the heads. We smile, laughed a little, and figured if I was going to have to put new seals in it, I was gonna have to pull the head anyway, so we did. As soon as we got the head off and turned it over to look at the valve face, 3 out of the 8 exhaust valves have holes in them where they have cracked and burnt though about the size of a pencil in diameter! Wonder where my smoke was coming from? Then the story gets better-- We looked down into the cylendar walls and found that on the #2 poston wrist pin bearing had let loose and wore a groove about .0120 in the chamber like somebody stuck a router bit into the side wall. Oh-- did I mention we took the timing chain off by hand without removing the gears? All of this in a motor which still had the orginal paint on 100% of it. My 300 4V goes in it next weekend. ;-) And Wish-- MY MOTOR MOUNTS WERE NOT BOLTED DOWN EITHER!!!!! (GRIN) Tony tony http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony William S Hart wrote: > >I saw that someone reported that the 390 was used thru 76. Can anyone > >confirm this? > > > Sure Tim, how about if Tony and I each have one ? Actually he has a 360 > since the 390 was not available in 4wd versions ... so the 360 should be > listed through 76 for 4x4's. > > Also I was wondering if all the autos got the full time 4wd ... the way it > looks in the Red Book, it sounds almost like this is true ... > > Anyone got a manual with a 203 or an auto with a 205 ?? (factory of > course) ... > Just my 2cents > > wish > > Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html > '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html > '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 12:24:15 -0400 From: tfreeman Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - leinholder When I was in the service, you had to pay property tax on the vehicle in the state and/or county you were in if the vehicle was there for more than 6 mos. You could have out of state plates as long as you were military, but the local tax laws applied. As far as emissions and inspections went, you were exempt from the state and county inspections, as long as you were active military stationed outside the state. But once returning to the state, or the vehicle is to remain in the state for more than 30 days, you were required to get caught up with all inspections. (Again, I'm a resident of NC and this is from that point of view and the laws since I was in may have changed) Also, in NC, if your drivers license expired and you could not get back to NC to get them renewed you were exempt from getting them renewed until you returned to the state. Then you had 30 days to get them renewed. I don't know if this is relevant to this conversation or not but I do know that the military and its relationships with the local and state governments are different than the one with the everyday working dude. I know this only because I got busted on both sides of the fence. Military and Civilian. The military folks around here have to claim a "home of > record". This exempts them from many of the local and state regulations. For > instance a soldier from Iowa doesn't have to get his car inspected in Texas > and can drive with an expired license for so many days, I think about 90. But that is different. I'm talking about permananetly garaging a car used out of state at my "other residence". Once in a while, I might bring it to NJ to do major work to it :-) I would not be getting two liscences. OX == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 09:11:44 -0700 From: "Sam Weatherby" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? One thing I have seen go bad, besides the ignition module, is the magnetic pickup inside the distributor. When it warmed up it would stop running. After it cooled down everything was fine. -srw Sam Weatherby http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://insert.com/sammy SWeatherby '70 Grabber Sportsroof Mustang '65 F100 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 09:15:29 -0700 From: "Sam Weatherby" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? > or 2)Try going with a different ignition setup. I spent about 200 bucks > total and dropped in a Mallory ProComp and haven't had a problem since, even > gained a few ponies too. Good luck! I would recomend taking off you module, brain box, whatever you choose to call it and take it to an auto parts store and they can test it. They don't normally charge for that, and if it is bad, you can buy a new one. If not, it was worth a try and was free. -srw == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 12:32:19 -0400 From: tfreeman Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '76 FE - RIP Just goes to prove how hard it is to kill an FE. All those problems and was still running! - -Ted HAD-- HAD a 360 Wish!!! 8-) Yesterday after a fun filled day of turning wrenches and bloodying knuckles, I removed my little smog factory out of my new truck.. What I found completely blew my mind away. Keith and I took the valve covers off of the motor while it was sitting on the ground, and low and behold it was a beautifully clean engine inside, but futher inspecting the head, there were 5 valve seals that were completely gone off of the stems, and the parts and flakes of the old rubber were in the corner of the heads. We smile, laughed a little, and figured if I was going to have to put new seals in it, I was gonna have to pull the head anyway, so we did. As soon as we got the head off and turned it over to look at the valve face, 3 out of the 8 exhaust valves have holes in them where they have cracked and burnt though about the size of a pencil in diameter! Wonder where my smoke was coming from? Then the story gets better-- We looked down into the cylendar walls and found that on the #2 poston wrist pin bearing had let loose and wore a groove about .0120 in the chamber like somebody stuck a router bit into the side wall. Oh-- did I mention we took the timing chain off by hand without removing the gears? All of this in a motor which still had the orginal paint on 100% of it. My 300 4V goes in it next weekend. ;-) And Wish-- MY MOTOR MOUNTS WERE NOT BOLTED DOWN EITHER!!!!! (GRIN) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 19:48:32 +0200 From: "Bill Brox" Subject: FTE 61-79 - No Truck today !!! Hi all, A bit as expected I didn't get the truck home today,, it wouldn't start. no power in battery. So, I guess either it is a lousy battery, can't hold the power, or it is a place it steals current. Will go there early in the morning to fix it. Bill == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 15:48:17 EDT From: TBeeee Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - "Nut Crackers" are Sweet In a message dated 7/12/99 9:46:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time, wish writes: > I have seen a set of "nut crackers" that are designed to do just that, a > bit less crude and just as effective... I have a small one that works on hex heads up through 3/4". The problem is getting it into tight places and factory Bed bolts usually have a shoulder on the nut which is also problematic. I agree that they are a great tool. Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (I need factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 12:53:53 -0700 From: Don or Bub Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I have power steering! i too am wanting to swap over to power steering. i have a 302 instead of the 390. could you tell me what it was you had to do in order to swap. thanks bub MARTY COLMAN wrote: > > Well guys it finally happened, I got my power steering conversion done! > What a difference! I was pretty easy too. Just swap boxes, mount the pump > and change the shaft in my column. Everything worked out as planned. (that > doesn't happen to me too often) > > I wanted to take this opportunity to share my excitement with you and to > thank you for your help. I really appreciate your experience and your > willingness to help. Thanks. > > Marty Colman > 73 F100 2wd 390 > > _______________________________________________________________ > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 12:46:38 -0700 From: "Sam Weatherby" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I have power steering! The only difference will be your PS pump mounting brackets. Really all you need is; Pump and bracket. PS box, PS Steering column. Later, -srw Sam Weatherby http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://insert.com/sammy SWeatherby '70 Grabber Sportsroof Mustang '65 F100 - ----- Original Message ----- From: Don or Bub To: Sent: Monday, July 12, 1999 12:53 PM Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I have power steering! > i too am wanting to swap over to power steering. i have a 302 instead of > the 390. could you tell me what it was you had to do in order to swap. > thanks > bub == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 06 Jul 1999 17:52:06 -0700 From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 >it is that has "D2TEAA" stamped on the heads, a transplanted C-6, nearly >original interior, 75K original miles, very little rust, only a couple Maybe I'm ignorant, but.. with a transplanted transmission, can you still consider the 75k -original- miles? I read this term quite often in advertisements, but never knew exactly what it means. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 07 Jul 1999 06:33:59 -0700 From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Vacuum Advance At 10:10 PM 7/1/99 -0600, you wrote: >I am at my wit's end! I have a 70 390 in a '70 F100 that I just recently >built. I am running an Edelbrock performer 600cfm carb and a Crane #343901 >cam with a lift of 501 on the intake, 533 on the exhaust and about a 260 >advertised duration. The distributor is brand new and has been calibrated >for about a 32 degree total advance. I have it plugged into the timed >vacuum port, as I am told I should. You mean, the static advance (w/o vacuum and at idle) is 32 degrees? That's a lot! Try half that.. >The Problem: I seem to have way too much advance at partial throttle >settings (when the vacuum is highest) and I get a miss. In order to get rid >of the miss I have to retard the timing so much that the truck will barely Did you try screwing the idle mixture screws out a little? I always notice with my engine that the idler jets give plenty gas at idle but then at 800 rpm it starts dropping and only at 1500 or so the main jets really start working. Inbetween that, e.g. while driving around town at 20 mph, it runs kind of lean. >The Questions: Is my carb or cam causing a stronger vacuum than a stock? >How can I limit my vacuum advance? Is this a common problem? If your engine is tuned really well, you get more vacuum, yes. So you are using ported vacuum now? That should not be strong at all at idle. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 07 Jul 1999 06:55:12 -0700 From: Bas van der Veer Subject: FTE 61-79 - built ford tough? >money pit. So went to clean things - 4 pushrods are trashed, three bent, one >with both ends chipped gone. WHAT NEXT!? When I'm done, new rearend, >springs, gas tank, all unscheduled; then a new frontend, again unscheduled; >next came a new tranny, unscheduled; new motor/radiator/brake system/charging >system/starter/battery, unscheduled; all in last 7 months of the year I've Welcome to the world of old trucks :) I know what you are talking about. Fortunately the previous owner of my truck just put a new engine and transmission in so that all works fine. Transfer case too. Lets see what else did you have .. rearend: yup, I bent an axle which trashed a bearing, just got my new one in yesterday. springs are still on my list, especially when my 33 gal gas tank is full the rearend sits 4" lower than the front. My gas tank was also done by the previous owner. Got a new front end too, I got water in the bearings, started squealing. Thank god I checked it out before it failed! Just bearings though, the diff was still fine. Radiator.. yup, it's been in there for almost two weeks now. Also installed the biggest transmission cooler I could find. New brake system.. not quite, I still got the original pedal :) Charging system, yup.. battery, yup, the one that was in there originally was cracked and only had 10 volts.. amazing the truck was starting at all! Starter is still hanging in there. And yet it's been worth every dime I paid for it. I love this truck!! Bas. 78 bronco/351M/C6 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 07 Jul 1999 17:30:09 -0700 From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 4x4 usage >second: No, do not drive on hard, non slip surface with a NP205 in 4Wd, it >will cause tremendous bind in the drive line, and something will >give......u-joint, drive shaft tube, pinion shaft, etc etc. Well.. I've done 50-60mph on dry blacktop in part time 4wd and nothing gave. But yeah, you'll use up tires and gas real fast. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 07 Jul 1999 17:57:01 -0700 From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6 Transmission slippage >and call a freind of mine to tow me home. When we got to my house I put it >in gear to try to put it in the driveway and it went in like there was no >problem. I smelled the fluid and it does not smell burnt and it looks good Good. >also. I wonder if I have the tranny to full of fluid or if the fluid >overheated or both. Could someone please tell me where the fluid should read >on the dipstick when it is cold and when it is hot? and should it read lower Transmissions are a pain to measure, because the hydraulic system fills and empties cylinders with fluid. What you have to do is drive it around for awhile so it gets to heat up and has been through all the gears. Then park on a level surface and put it in park, leave the engine running so the oil does not flow back into the pan. Then check the fluid. You will probably have to check and wipe off the stick a couple of times before you can see the level. >when cold and higher when hot? my last question is, I currently have type F >fluid in it, but my dad had a 77 with a C-6 and he said that I should use >Dexron. If you guys and gals could help me out it would be greatly Correct, C6 needs dexronII or better (I have pennzoil dexron III). But I believe the early ones did use type F so you should consult some documentation on that one. If you do need dexron: You should drain what you have now, take the pan off, replace filter etc. Don't forget to drain your torque converter too, it holds some 6-7 quarts of fluid. I did this awhile ago, you will have to remove the little plate to expose the flexplate. You will probably see the connecting bolts. There is a drain plug also, but you probably have to rotate the engine to get to it. On mine it was there when the harmonic balancer was at 14 BTDC, so you can start with turning it there. Anyway if you're not certain how to do it, let me know and I can write detailed instructions, like I said I did it just two weeks ago. Bas. >appreciated as I dont want to have to rebuild this transmission unless I >have to. > > >Thank You in advance for all of your help. I really love all the great >information from this site. > >Thank You, >Jason >. > > > > > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 17:25:54 EDT From: WEDIVE247 Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE availability In a message dated 99-07-11 16:52:07 EDT, you write: > CORRECTION , MY 64 came with a 352 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 16:26:28 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 >>it is that has "D2TEAA" stamped on the heads, a transplanted C-6, nearly >>original interior, 75K original miles, very little rust, only a couple > >Maybe I'm ignorant, but.. with a transplanted transmission, can you still >consider the 75k -original- miles? I read this term quite often in >advertisements, but never knew exactly what it means. > Well if they don't list everything as having been replaced its usually assumed to be on the rest of the car and mean the odometer hasnt been rolled back. For instance, Mom's car has 76,000 (just guessng, I know its over 72 and under 85) original miles on the 69 Stang she bought new ... valve covers have never been off the motor, but the tranny has been out because it needed a clutch replaced ... we didnt' rebuild the tranny but if we had, it would still have 76,xxx original miles, but the tranny would have been rebuilt at 6x,xxx ... mileage is still original for the car, its just not on the tranny... My car on the other hand shows 13,5xx on a 96, but its not original because the original odometer crapped out at 34,000 and I swapped in a gauge pod with 12,xxx on it ... Anyway I hope this helps clear things up ... though I doubt it did ... Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 01:30:20 -0800 From: "Erik Marquez" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 4x4 usage - -----Original Message----- From: Bas van der Veer Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 4x4 usage >>second: No, do not drive on hard, non slip surface with a NP205 in 4Wd, it >>will cause tremendous bind in the drive line, and something will >>give......u-joint, drive shaft tube, pinion shaft, etc etc. > >Well.. I've done 50-60mph on dry blacktop in part time 4wd and nothing >gave. But yeah, you'll use up tires and gas real fast. > well ya, going in a straight line, at 50, 60 or even a 100 mph is not the problem, it's the turning that will cause the problems, but hey it's your truck. :-) Erik Marquez bronco78 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78 Home of the BB decal Bronco 78 in the BB chat room == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 17:49:06 -0400 From: dale rimkunas Subject: FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? > >AFter waiting a few minutes it started right up again and was fine, >except for the fact that my blinkers didn't work. So I guess a fuse was >loose. Dad said he fixed it and then today I was on my way to a rodeo >places!> and she did the same thing goin up a hill >steering wheel kinda locked up> WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? The thing that >bugs me most is that after a second of sittin there she'll run fine then >outta the blue she'll embarrass me by stallin on the side of the road! > > >*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~* >*~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS~*~* Lisa, try checking your plug wires or spark plugs. If these are worn, what can happen is that they create too much resistance for the electronic(i assume that is what you have) ignition system. The unit tries to continue supplying the spark and overheats causing thermal shutdown. Just resting for a little while will allow the unit to cool down enough to continue working. I had this problem for months and it drove me nuts, because I'm used to points and condensor systems(God Bless Them) and this is not classic bad ignition behavior. It turned out to be the plug wires on mine. 3 mechanics could not figure it out. The new wires were less than all the estimates that were bogus. good luck Dale Rimkunas == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 17:54:53 EDT From: WEDIVE247 Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F-100 In a message dated 99-07-12 17:21:02 EDT, you write: consider the 75k -original- miles? I read this term quite often in >> I was under the empression that if one did a body off frame restoration you could say the truck / car had 0 miles on it and turn the odometer back to 0. Is this right or wrong ? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 15:38:52 -0700 From: "James A. Doty" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - built ford tough? Bas van der Veer wrote: > >money pit. So went to clean things - 4 pushrods are trashed, three bent, I bought my '78 E-150 in July 96. This is a mostly complete list of what I've had to do since: Cut out floor and installed 4" drop floor. Lowered front gas tank. Installed 1974 Ricon wheelchair lift. Installed electric sliding door opener/closer. Replaced transmission. Had left rear door, and tire rack repaired, and new rear bumper installed after being rearended for the second time in 18 months. Installed Edelbrock dual plain intake manifold. Installed Edelbrock 600cfm 4 barrel carb. Installed Dynomax ceramic coated headers. Installed Flow Master high performance two inlet one outlet muffler. Replaced alternator. Replaced voltage regulator. Replaced battery. Replaced all four tires and rims. Replaced heater core. Replaced ignition switch. Replaced spark plugs. Replaced spark plug wires. Replaced distributor cap and rotor. Replaced headlight switch. Replaced heater control switches. Replaced fan switch. Installed rear helper springs. Replaced missing locking gas cap. Replaced locking gas caps with non locking gas caps due to failure at emmisions testing. Installed Grant Signiture series steering wheel. Installed 2 meter radio. Replaced both front seats. Installed volt meter. Installed tachometer. Replaced battery cables. Replaced both rear calipers. Replaced both rear pads. Replaced both front pads. Replaced both fron discs. Replaced right front brake bleeder. Replaced master brake cylinder. Replaced power booster. Tightened steering box to chassis. Replaced both outside mirrors. Replaced grill. Replaced wiper/washer switch. Replaced electric sliding door opener motor. Replaced right headlight. Replaced right headlight retaining ring. Replaced right taillight socket. Replaced right taillight 3 times. Replaced u-joints. I don't think it ever ends. James A. Doty dotyj == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 17:23:57 -0700 From: "Hogan, Tom" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 02:44:41 EDT From: Bad4dFilly Subject: FTE 61-79 - WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? Ok hey y'all, I love mah truck and all but lately she makes me wanna sell her to the junkyard! OK here's what happened, a few days ago I was drivin along just fine till she kinda sputtered and when I gave her gas she didn't accelerate. I kinda puttered to the side of the road and turned the ignition off. AFter waiting a few minutes it started right up again and was fine, ==== Replace your fuel filter. Mine was plugged once and did this same thing. What happens is while driving the filter restricts flow and allows the engine to drain the fuel bowl in the carb. The fuel pump is full and uses a rubber diaprham to hold steady pressure on the carb's needle and seat (like a full water balloon). When the engine stalls the fuel pump is full and has pressure so it pushes fuel through the filter even though the engine is off. As soon as the fuel bowl has enough gas the engine will start and run fine. BTW I did an autopsy (sp?) on the bad filter and couldn't see anything plugging it. Don't get discouraged. Every problem you solve will give you more confidence in your ability to keep her running. They also are what give our trucks character (or is that makes them characters?). Tom H. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 20:24:59 EDT From: JUMPINFORD Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE availability and 203's In a message dated 7/12/99 6:30:45 AM Pacific Daylight Time, wish writes: course) ... >> My uncle 78 F-250 has a 351m, Auto, and the Np205. all stock. Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 21:20:51 -0400 From: Garry Bowling Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear End swap Hello to all. I am a long time member who has been away from the digest for a while due to job transfer. I have a 1967 F100 longbed fully restored. I spent the better part of two years getting it completely restored. I had the truck at the 98 supernats but didn't make this years due to the job. Anyway, when I restored the truck, I had the 352 rebuilt and bored 30 over, add 4 bbl, converted to C-6 trans, added power steering and A/C. Last major change will be disc brakes for front. My latest problem seems to be the rear end. Its seems according to the guy who built my trans is that the rear is worn. I want to fix it but I also want to regear. I believe the rear end is a 3.5 but could be 3.25. One thing for sure when doing just over 70 I am pushing 3000rpm. I need to reduce the wear on the engine and hopefully improve fuel economy. I was told to consider 2.7 or 2.9 rear end.. I do not pull anything with this truck and as of now do not plan on it. However, I know there will always be a first time. I have found a guy here in Louisville Ky who will do the work for approx 300.00 including parts. Please let me know if anyone has done this or has some suggestions Thanks Garry Bowling garrya 67 F100 Longbed (Christine) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 21:33:06 -0400 From: Ken Payne Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ranger question Forwarded for: tony I know this is the wrong list-- but I need a quick answer and don't want to s*bscribe as this will doubtfully happen again-- Can somebody please tell me if a '83 Ford Ranger (small truck) rear slider window is the same as a '93's? When did they change? I have a '83 for sale and a guy is asking me about compatibility to his newer ranger. Thanks Tony == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 21:43:11 -0400 From: "Matthew R. Schwartz" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum advance problem I have a newly rebuilt 460. All parts are for a '78. The rebuilt engine ran fine for approx. 25 miles, then started idling rough. On inspection, I noticed that when I plugged the vacuum line to my distributor's vacuum advance module... to set the timing again, No. 1 terminal did not transfer a single spark to the wire. If I reconnect the vacuum line, NO 1 terminal fired rapidly ( as indicated by a timing light) This was a repeatable symptom. This was not the case in the initial timing accomplished; especially since one must have the vacuum line plugged for the timing procedure. Apparently, the vacuum is pulling the electronic pickup to a point where it is no where near the firing position to impart a charge on terminal #1. What is wrong? I cranked the engine to TDC on the compression stroke. Then cranked it to 12 degees BTDC, opened the dist. cap and adjusted the distributor so that on of the stator legs (1 of 8) was inline with the pickup. It is my understanding that this is a correct procedure that will ensure that with little vacuum, the engine will be firing at 12 degrees BTDC. AM I wrong? Matt == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 21:44:47 EDT From: IanBoss69 Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - starting problems ok, i've already used another battery from my dad's van and it still won't work, the batt cables are relitively new, im replacing them and the solenoid/starter cable tomorrow, and im getting the new starter checked again because when i took a set of jumper cables and hooked up to the battery when both were out of the truck it did not spin/spark/anything, (that was a friends suggestion and a mechanics, since they both suggested it i figured what the heck) as to the charging issue, my charger has a meter, and a trickle, it charges it then slowly goes to a trickle charge, and it was completely out of the trcuk when i charged it, soooooo, if all else fails im giving up and getting a mechanic, Ian 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M members.aol.com/ianboss69/page/home.htm True Blue Ford Blue == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 21:57:02 EDT From: IanBoss69 Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ranger question the new body style began in 93 on the rangers. Ian 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M members.aol.com/ianboss69/page/home.htm True Blue Ford Blue == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 22:03:21 EDT From: Bad4dFilly Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?!?!? In a message dated 07/12/1999 4:11:59 PM !!!First Boot!!!, djohnson You didn't specify what year your truck is. My one guess would be the ignition module. >> I have a '77 F-150 =) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 21:44:09 -0500 From: "Brett L. Habben" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Cummins 4BT to NP435 From: Bill Templeton Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Cummins 4BTA's Bill, All the pieces bolted behind the bare block are specific to the application. Save by buying a complete assembly used. Measure your.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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