From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #212
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61-79-list-digest Monday, June 21 1999 Volume 03 : Number 212



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Lessons learned on removing stubborn distributors
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles
Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange Behavior (vaccum leak)
Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
Re: FTE 61-79 - Computers are Us (again)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material
Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..
FTE 61-79 - '79 Bronco purchase
FTE 61-79 - New Engine Install
FTE 61-79 - brake lining material
FTE 61-79 - RE:Flywheel??
FTE 61-79 - Tinting
FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake Lining Material
FTE 61-79 - Trim those Posts- please.
FTE 61-79 - OD kickdown switch
FTE 61-79 - 66 F100 problems
FTE 61-79 - Gas mileage for FE's
FTE 61-79 - Welcome back
FTE 61-79 - dual rear wheel axles.
FTE 61-79 - Wiring EFI
FTE 61-79 - Tranny failures
FTE 61-79 - Flywheel
FTE 61-79 - L & L
FTE 61-79 - Tire Sizes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire Sizes
Re: FTE 61-79 - MPG with 460 (was Gas mileage for FE's)
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Flywheel??
FTE 61-79 - Re: Trim Posts
FTE 61-79 - Somebody must know???
Re: FTE 61-79 - OD kickdown switch
FTE 61-79 - Headers
Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers
Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
Re: FTE 61-79 - Lessons learned on removing stubborn distributors
Re: FTE 61-79 - brake lining material
Re: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Install
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tinting
Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
FTE 61-79 - NP203 and NP205
Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 07:06:55 -0400
From: "Robert Hutchinson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Lessons learned on removing stubborn distributors

I have replaced the 302 in my 78 F-100 with a 360 out of a friend's 72. The
engine ran pretty well so I wasn't concerned about rebuilding it, just
getting it in my truck so that it was drivable again. Well, I wanted to
replace the points-style distributor with a Duraspark, but the distributor
was absolutely frozen in place, (yes, I had removed the hold down bracket).
So, using a hammer and a block of wood I lightly tapped from side to
side.....nothing. So I tapped harder.......and after a while a little
harder until it finally broke loose and the housing would turn. But the
distributor still would not come out, at all. I gave up for the time being,
installed the engine and was just going to use the points style for a while
until I could figure out what was going on. The truck started up and ran,
but it wasn't long before I was thinking about swapping to a Duraspark dist.
(It wasn't long before I learned that the points style distributor I had was
badly worn on the lobes) It took me the better part of a day and all of the
muscle I have, using a 3 ft crowbar to remove the distributor. As it turned
out, the distributor housing was broken in two about midway down, (from my
hammer persuasion apparently), allowing the top part of the housing to
rotate but the lower part still firmly siezed to the block.

So, now I'm getting ready to pull the engine out again to remove the metal
pieces of the dist. housing that broke off and that fell down in the dist
hole and while I'm in there I'm going to replace the bearings and rings.

There were two mistakes I made during this process though. One was not
using enough penetrating liquid and patience, and two, I should have decided
to remove the distributor before I had installed it in the truck. Now if I
can just find a good engine stand.......

Robert E. Hutchinson
hutch297 groupz.net
'78 F-100 Custom
'79 F-150 Ranger, (parts truck)

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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 08:14:09 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles

>> Next day, truck's running really bad, like it's running on 5 of 8
>> cylinders, no power whatsoever, barely pulls the hill to my house but
>> will go 70 on the flats.
>........
>
> This reminds me of a timing chain that has slipped one tooth.


Exacly my thought too ... check the timing on the truck (if you can get it
to idle). Mine was so worn that the timing wandered all over the place,
its a wonder the thing ran at all, a little farther with that old chain and
I'd have been in a similar predicament. I think its about $30 for a new
timing set for that motor, you'll have to pull the water pump and front
cover to replace it, but first be sure that's the problem by checking the
timing. If it shows your timing with too much advance or retard then you
will know ... if you don't have a timing lite, you may be able to tell by
putting the damper on 0 and then pulling the dist. cap off to see where the
rotor is pointing, it should either be pointing at 1 or 180deg off of 1 ...
if its 180 off, spin the motor over again and check it ... it should be
pointing exactly at 1 now, if its at one on either side, then you've
slipped a cog....

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 08:17:04 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70

>If ya wanna see another, look under the Pictorial. Mine is there. I need to
>update the info, but the looks aint changed much. (Still Fugly) But Body
>work is the last step, cuz I wont be caught sittin pretty cuz the engine died.
>

Can we still submit pics to the pictorial ? My truck never made it in
there (wanted it fixed first), and now when I read the stuff it says we
have to be a member of the club ? I'm just on the list, didn't join the
club, but can I still have a pic of my truck there ?


Just curious..... Darrell, I'll check out your truck in a few minutes,
was gone on fri. and have to wade through the rest of the mail :)


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 08:19:31 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles

>This one is a 351W, and it's on a farm. It would fail after pulling a
>weigh wagon or something similar. If it fails again, it may have to be
>converted to a C-6.

Wow, that is a lot of weight for any tranny .... Dad's got a C6 behind his
5.8, was usin that this weekend (and will be for a couple of weeks
actually). I'd love to have the E4 behind that thing, pullin trailers on
the interstate and its over 3G's on the tach just seems wrong, there's no
way that truck is in its torque range or its hp range ... the OD on Jamie's
E4 drops it right to the torque peak and just holds it there ...

Maybe we can talk about a switch ? :)


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 08:24:21 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange Behavior (vaccum leak)

>drove away. After removing the carb and spacer I discovered my error when I
>used the wrong gasket under the spacer which created the leak under the PCV
>outlet at the rear. It cost $5 for the material I used to make the new
>gasket, and now the engine idles very nicely.
>

This is usually the case, he was probably expecting a warped base plate or
something ... the correct gasket was probably less than 10 bucks, but hey,
makin it yourself, you will know for sure that everything is sealed up ...
glad you got it running.


>FYI:) The mechanic said he sprayed carb cleaner (while the engine was
>running) around the base of the carb to locate the vacuum leak. A spray
>bottle with water seems to work also. It seems that when a fine mist is
>aimed at a vacuum leak the engine will change in idle.
>
Hmmm...I've heard of carb cleaner and WD-40, but never water ... the water
may momentarily plug the vacuum leak, but I don't think I'd spray water
into my engine, its probably not going to burn real well ... though it is
much safter to be spraying on a hot engine ...




Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 08:26:32 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint

>Check you local laws. Here in NC they will give you a ticket and make you
pull
>it off if it is to dark. I've noticed the police don't bother you as long as
>they can see bodies through the tint. I like the stuff, especially in places
>like Florida. Helps to keep the car cool.
>

Might read the law pretty closely, this usually only applies to vehicles
made after a certain date (usually sometime in the 80's), though IL made it
retroactive so that if the vehicle didn't already have the tint on it you
couldn't put it on .... who's to know when it was put on if you do it
yourself though ?


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 08:25:25 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Computers are Us (again)

>Is there no one who has wired an EFI engine. I got one response (and a good
>one!), but plans have the best chance with many advisers. Let me hear from
>you.
>

Could you send me the original question ? I must've missed it ... not that
I'll necessarily be any help though either ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 08:31:35 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material

>they do make carbon racing pads, second mmmmmmm..I think? , would you put your
>hand on a 3in" thick metal while some was heating the other side for 30
>seconds, or
>would you put your hand on a 1/16 of an inch thick metal while so one was
>heating the other side, the answer to that question will point you down the
>right road.
>

I think this was my point ... the heat will dissipate from a larger surface
area much faster...

Can I ask why you guys are so worried about getting the heat into the pad ?
Isn't the pad closer to the brake fluid than the rotor ? Also a vented
rotor would be more likely to get rid of the heat faster right ?

As for the weight issue, remember that rotating mass is even more effective
weight than fixed, so every little bit you save on that rotor is going to
be equivalent to a lot ...

Warped rotors are a function of internal stresses right ? With a thicker
rotor, won't you have more internal stresses ? or at least higher ones,
because of the heat gradient across the metal ? Thermo was a few years
ago for me, so this is digging back a ways ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 09:53:34 -0400
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint

Actually here, any vehicle can have the tint. The state has a limit on how dark
it can be to protect the patrolmen from a potential ambush. (My Mom worked with
Emergency Services for long time) As long as a patrolman can see through the
tint there's no problem. This law (haven't read it lately) used to apply to all
vehicles. Only show, non-highway, use vehicles could run a darker tint. Again,
I'm only talking NC here. I know other states have different requirements.

Thanks,

- -Ted




William S Hart on 06/21/99 09:26:32 AM

Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint




>Check you local laws. Here in NC they will give you a ticket and make you
pull
>it off if it is to dark. I've noticed the police don't bother you as long as
>they can see bodies through the tint. I like the stuff, especially in places
>like Florida. Helps to keep the car cool.
>

Might read the law pretty closely, this usually only applies to vehicles
made after a certain date (usually sometime in the 80's), though IL made it
retroactive so that if the vehicle didn't already have the tint on it you
couldn't put it on .... who's to know when it was put on if you do it
yourself though ?


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 10:07:35 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..

i remember your truck was names tweety, and your name was darrell, but
couldnt remember any more than that.. :( plus didnt want to put a wrong
name for feear of looking stoopid..!

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 08:29 PM 6/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 6/20/99 4:21:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>cannandale netpointe.com writes:
>
>
> compressor that was sent to me by somebody on this list.. cant remeber the
> name.. oh well. >>
>
>Forgotten lil ole me already? Im hurt!
>
>Darrell Duggan
>74 F-350 "Tweety"
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>


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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 10:09:10 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..

like i said, the engine in the van was from a linc cont 460, so it had a
front sump pan. Im still running the front sump pan, but have 4" of lift.
it fits very, very close.. :)

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 11:56 PM 6/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>that van should have a rear sump oil pan, a must for a 4x4 installation,
>unless you have alot of lift.
>
>jeff grant
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>


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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 10:19:51 -0400
From: dgerow stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '79 Bronco purchase

First I would like to thank everyone who replied to my previous post. I
still have yet to purchase the Bronco simply because it needs some work.
I'm looking at the following:

1979 Bronco Ranger XLT
400 motor
C6
NP 205
Danna 44/Ford 9"
Warn Hubs

3 inch suspension lift (add-a-leaves) and a 4 inch body lift.

I need to drop the body lift because of Massachusetts lift laws. Also,
whoever did it originally, never compensated for things like the 4wheel
drive shift lever. It was never lengthened, so you can't put it in gear
because it hit the floor pan. Also, the bumpers would have to be dropped
and relocated. I'm assuming the radiator will have to get the same
attention. I've never dropped a truck, so I guess I'm a little skeptical.
How easy, relatively speaking, is it? What else should I look for? Can
someone recommend a decent body lift kit, about 2 inches at most for the
truck and where I can get one?

Thanks again for the help,

Dan

- -------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
Technology Resources
Stonehill College
Easton, MA
dgerow stonehill.edu
- -------------------------------



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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 10:25:33 -0400
From: David Henderson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Install

OK... After a lot of time, money, and work, I'm finally going to install my
new 300 this evening. I'm having the flywheel turned this morning and picking
up the last supplies after work (oil, antifreeze, etc...). I have a couple of
questions before I start this evening, though.

The first is: What is the best oil to use to break in this engine?
And the second is actually for Tony Marino: What does your throttle mounting
bracket look like? Did you just mount a fabricated piece of metal to the
exhaust/intake studs and then mount the factory throttle bracket to that?

Thanks for the help!!

Dave H


- --
_
_| ~~. David Henderson
\, _} DHenders VT.Edu
\( Gig 'em Aggies! '93

Currently at:
Interdepartmental Genetics Program
2010 Litton Reaves Hall
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
Blacksburg, VA 24061
(540)231-4773
(540)231-5014
DHenders VT.Edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dasc.vt.edu/henderson/dhenderson.html
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 09:34:07 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - brake lining material

For Robert Brown and James Shanks:

I hope you were being facetious about the brevity of the brake heat
dissapation thread. You two wasted more bandwidth with your unsnipped
replies than a newbie who sends messages three or four times and doesn't
supress his headers. Sorry Ken, I know this is your territory, but I had one
nerve left and they got on it.

Now to the business at hand. After following the thread I have concluded
that if you are buying pads for newer, thinner rotors, the thicker organic
pads would contribute to early rotor warpage due to excessive heat
retention. Metalic pads wear out rotors faster than the other kinds. I have
usually opted for semi-metallic where available and shall continue to do so
as they appear to be a good compromise for our year of trucks.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 10:06:42 -0500
From: Don Yerhot
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Flywheel??

Mike,
Your 302 flywheel will work on a 351C, that is if the 302 is an 81 or
earlier. The bellhousing will bolt right up too. Ford went to a
different balance in 82. I went from a 351C to a 351W in my 65, so I did
a flip/flop of your swap.Good Luck!

Don
65F250-351W-435NP
74F100-351W-Fomoco 3 speed


From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: FTE 61-79 -

Looking for a flywheel for a 351C. I have a 302 in my truck and am
changing it out soon, will the flywheel from my 302 work or is it
balanced wrong?
Does anyone know where I might purchase one? I live in the Seattle
area.
Oh yeah, I have a manual tranny (toploader)

Mike in Burien Washington>>

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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 10:18:58 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tinting

>>I'm thinking of tinting my windows.
Any advice?

Follow the instructions. Seriously, tinting windows isn't rocket science but
it is harder than growing mold in the fridge. A brief lesson (my son did it
professionally for awhile and this is his general procedure.):

Is there a lesson for remove window tint. Mine is old and cracked with
bubbles.

TIA

Larry

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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 08:21:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake Lining Material

>the thinner one only warps because it can not.not.not
>dissipate the heat like a thicker one!
>If it could it would not warp!

WRONG! It is surface area that dissapates heat. It is
temperature(heat density) that warps rotors, the
thinner rotor will reach a higher temperature while it
dissapates heat at the same rate as the thick one.

> You say organic squeak more ? what happens when you
> rub metal to meal? ie......... semi met pads??? and
>if it weren't for the fact that they found out that

> asbestos caused cancer we would still be using
>organic pads!

WRONG! Asbestos is inorganic. Sqeal is caused by
vibration not metal to metal contact.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 11:53:20 -0400
From: pdesanto Cinergy.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Trim those Posts- please.

Bill, I'll second that. I'm in Digest mode, and often can't just sit and
read. So I print it and take it with me.
That particular thread, and response took up 11 wasted pages ! Trim those
posts- save a tree- Save my ink cartridge.



> Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999
> From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
> Subject: Trim Posts
>
> Could we please trim our posts a little? When we just reply to a long
> thread with two or three replies attached, it wastes space on both the
> list and in the archives...................Rest of post "trimmed", for
> obvious reasons.
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 13:22:49 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - OD kickdown switch

Jeff writes: >> I am looking for the firewall mounted OD kickdown switch
(releases OD
with full throttle) for a '69 f100 with Warner t-85 three speed. The
plastic internal parts of the one in my truck have disintegrated from
age. Thanks to the helpful suggestions from a few of you I have been
able to bypass it and make the solenoid activate, Does anyone know if
any of the available passenger car (or earlier truck) units can be
modified to work? Is it same as early car (Tbird/fairlane) units?

The switch is the same on cars back to 1961. (I had one) I also had a '51 Merc
with one, but I do not remember if the switch was the same or not. Sorry. Age
has rotted a lot of the memory. I would think that any "momentary contact"
switch could be adapted, but I haven't fooled with one of these in 15 years or
so. All it does is momentary ground the coil hot side to let the engine miss
one cylinder firing which causes a slack in the drive line and allows the OD to
disengsge. It can't disengage as long as there is tension on the driveline.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 12:31:47 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 F100 problems

Kathy,

The first thing you need to do is not drive or even start the truck until
you do a little diagnosis.

1. Pull the plugs again, examinig each one carefully. If one or some are
beat up or the electrode mashed in, you probably have a (some) broken valve
heads.

2. If you had destroyed rings or punched a hole in the top of a piston, you
would be blowing a thick black smoke cloud out the back.

3. If you feel like starting it up, check the timing with a timing light. If
it is way off, then you probably have timing chain troubles. If you continue
to run it with a slipped timing chain, you will eventually cause more
damage.

4. Drain the oil. If it is full of metal shavings, you know what that means.

Good luck. I hope it is not something "bad".

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 13:37:17 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gas mileage for FE's

Danger writes: >> I got 14 MPG out my 69 F250 with 390, Holley 1850
(modified with
adjustable secondaries), Hooker Competition headers, 3" Magna Flow exhaust,
T18 and 3.54 rear axle with HT 235/85/R16 E tires and was very happy about
it because I didn't think it could get much better than that.

So,... Just how good of gas mileage can these FE's get?

From my experiences with the FE's, you have about reached the Max limit.

FOMOCO trucks have never been known as "good" gas mileage makers IMHO.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 13:43:26 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Welcome back

Tim Bowman writes: >>I've just rejoined the list after a several month absence
due to
extensive travel and personal issues including the death of my father
and attending to duties as executor of his estate.

I've been able to acquire and install what appears to be an original
AM-FM stereo radio for my 71 F100 and have put in a new turn signal
cam. Also have acquired a one owner '63 1/2 XL fastback, black on
black.

If you are in the Burien, WA area, feel free to come out to our
cruise-in at the Fred Meyer store every Saturday nite. There's a few
F100's including one nice '72 F100 owned by Mike P. who's on this list.

Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
71 F100 & other FOMOCO's

Welcome back my good man. I just mentioned your name a couple of days ago in a
post about refurbishing steering wheels. I remember seeing the fabulous job you
did on yours at the PF truck show last year. How about a tech article for the
List????

Sorry about your loss. Parents aren't replacable.

Congrats on your new purchase. Sounds good.

Weren't you in Jaw - Jaw(Georgia) previously???? How'd you get to be in
Washington??

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 14:06:59 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dual rear wheel axles.

Pat writes: >>
Azie....I am confused. My understanding is that a "dually" rear end, from
backing plate to backing plate, is the same width as a standard rear end.
The dual wheel rear end, or one ton, the backing plates are narrow to allow
the outside width of the wheels to be the same as a standard rear end. As
I am looking to install a dually rear end my 74 F250 Camper Special, I would
appreciate any info and thanks for all the good information you have
provided to myself and others.

I have been following this list for about a year and find it informative,
interesting and look forward each day to reading it

In my '76 Farm truck, the front wheels and the inside wheel of the rears track -
not the outside.

I don' know what I posted before was gospel or not, but it is what I've been led
to believe, and I do know for a fact that the true "duallie" (factory metal box
with fenders over the rear duals) rear end is wider than mine from backing plate
to backing plate and from spring center to spring center. I was going to buy
one out of a "duallie" once several years ago and I just happened to mention
that I was going to put it under a dual rear wheel standard F350 with flatbed
and the owner told me to measure 1st, and I did. It wouldn't fit. Surprised
the tar out of me. I was told at that time that it was the same as an E350.

Any regular dual wheel (cab/chassis) that was not a "Duallie" should work for
you from somewhere around '64 up till mid '77. The mid'77's and later had a
little bit more spacing between the rear spring centers and also used wider
springs. Measure yours from spring centers and from backing plate to backing
plate and take the measurements with you when you go looking. Might save you
some trouble.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 14:13:16 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wiring EFI

Glenn in Tenn writes: >>Is there no one who has wired an EFI engine. I got one
response (and a good
one!), but plans have the best chance with many advisers. Let me hear from
you.

Not too many EFI's from '61 thru '79!!!!
Just Joshing ya.

I've also given a lot of thought about EFI'ing a 460, but haven't the slightest
knowledge of how to do it except to get the whole electricals from a salvage
unit, and I'm not so sure I want to get into that.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.



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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 14:26:52 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tranny failures

William Ballinger writes: >>This one is a 351W, and it's on a farm. It would
fail after pulling a
weigh wagon or something similar. If it fails again, it may have to be
converted to a C-6.

Yo Bill ! ! ! ! Do you have an aux cooler on this particular vehicle???? I
think that one would be very appropiate here. Can't cost that much to try it.
Heat kills more automatics(of any brand or configuration) than anything else.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 14:38:53 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Flywheel

Mike writes: >>Still looking for a flywheel for a 351C... Need a flywheel for
my truck,
my engine is about done and I'm not having any luck finding a flywheel
in the Seattle area, can anyone help me?

This is strictly a guess.
I would think that the 351M/400 flywheel would bolt up the the 351C crankshaft.
IF it will, then you can have it balanced to your 351C Assembly, or just get a
351C auto flywheel (called flexplate by some) and your standard 351M flywheel
and take them to your local speed shop that balances engine assemblies and have
the 351M/400 balanced the same as the 351C auto. This will work. The key is a
flywheel that will bolt up to the 351C crank.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 14:42:11 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - L & L

Cannondale writes: >>After driving the 70 miles to look at this 460 van for
brackets, I found
out it was a '73 linc. engine, with orginal brackets...... that leaves me
with over 37 junkyards that have no 460's.. so.. i remember reading that
L&L products has a set of brackets, if so, whats their number? im tired of
looking around..

(214) 475 - 5202

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 15:07:16 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tire Sizes

I'd like to get an accurate calculation of my MPG and was wondering
about tire sizes. What was the stock tire size for the 1969 F250 4x2, and
what effect would using 235/85/R16 tires have on MPG calculations?


TIA
Danger


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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 16:24:53 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire Sizes

> I'd like to get an accurate calculation of my MPG and was wondering
>about tire sizes. What was the stock tire size for the 1969 F250 4x2, and
>what effect would using 235/85/R16 tires have on MPG calculations?
>

Hmmm... a peek at the driver's door tag, the glove box, or perhaps an
owners manual might reveal the original tire size ...

your best bet will be to figure out how far off your speedometer is ...
this will also be the amount your odometer is off too ... with all the
variables for mileage, as long as you're within a few percent you should be
alright (unless you have a huuuuggeeee tank)

One way you could figure it out would be to pick a distance you can measure
(like the mile markers on the interstate) and figure out what your odometer
reads vs. the distance you've actually gone, if your odo has tenths this
should be a very good measure of things ... be sure to go multiple mile
markers (like 10 or 20) to be sure you get a good average. And don't use
interchange's as they are sometimes off by as much as 3/4 of a mile ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 16:07:18 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - MPG with 460 (was Gas mileage for FE's)

Azie wrote...

> FOMOCO trucks have never been known as "good" gas mileage makers IMHO.
>
..........

Yes I agree, but the strength and reliability make it worth sacrificing
MPG...

The next truck I plan on buying will be a mid 70's HD F250 or F350 4x4
and I was wondering about the 460 engine. The 92 F250 4x4 with E4OD got
anywhere from 7 to 11 MPG depending on the load and terrain. What would be
normal to expect from a mid 70's 460 without all the electronics?

I'd like to start with a good frame and cab, buy all the rest of the
parts new and build the truck I really want, but I don't know much about the
manual trans or the transfer case. What would be a good choice to put
between a new 460 with extra power and a Dana 70 Power-Lok rear end?

Danger


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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 15:31:37 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Flywheel??

Thanks Don, feel better already, its great having all this experience at
the touch of my finger tips..

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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 15:51:52 -0700
From: Marv Miller
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Trim Posts

William L. Ballinger wrote, in part:
> Could we please trim our posts a little?

Is this what you had in mind? This is a 'Net Peeve of mine, too.
- -M-
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 19:27:44 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Somebody must know???

Asked this last week, didn't see an answer, so I'll try once more. Was
there an F-350 over 10,000 lb GVWR in the 70's.

OX
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 16:55:07 -0700
From: Jeff Harsha
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - OD kickdown switch

Thanks for the reply. I wired past the defunct switch and was able to get the
overdrive to function. I lowers the rpm 60 from just under 3k to about 2k. Should
do wonders for gas mileage! I located a kickdown switch (I hope...haven't gotten it
yet) at C&G Early Ford parts. That should bring it all back to original working
order!

am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote:

> Jeff writes: >> I am looking for the firewall mounted OD kickdown switch
> (releases OD
> with full throttle) for a '69 f100 with Warner t-85 three speed. The
> plastic internal parts of the one in my truck have disintegrated from
> age. Thanks to the helpful suggestions from a few of you I have been
> able to bypass it and make the solenoid activate, Does anyone know if
> any of the available passenger car (or earlier truck) units can be
> modified to work? Is it same as early car (Tbird/fairlane) units?
>
> The switch is the same on cars back to 1961. (I had one) I also had a '51 Merc
> with one, but I do not remember if the switch was the same or not. Sorry. Age
> has rotted a lot of the memory. I would think that any "momentary contact"
> switch could be adapted, but I haven't fooled with one of these in 15 years or
> so. All it does is momentary ground the coil hot side to let the engine miss
> one cylinder firing which causes a slack in the drive line and allows the OD to
> disengsge. It can't disengage as long as there is tension on the driveline.
>
> Azie
> Ardmore, Al.
>
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 19:02:29 -0500
From: "Frank & Erin"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Headers

I am looking for suggestions on a reliable set of headers for a 360 cid 71
F-100. I only use this truck for street driving and I just learning about
the world of performance enhancements. I would like to turn this truck into
a project truck...so I am just starting to learn. Thanks.

Frank Moore
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 17:21:25 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Headers

Now you're in trouble... it'll cost you....
Try Summit they have quite a selection

Mike in Burien

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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 20:09:22 CDT
From: Robert Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint

Just take it to a shop, it shouldn't cost you over $65 to have it done and
have a guarantee (can probably get it done for as low as $35). If you bring
it to Oklahoma, my brother'll do it for you! Ha-ha!!


>From: "John LaGrone"
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: "-FordTruckDigest"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint
>Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 18:02:36 -0500
>
> >>I'm thinking of tinting my windows.
>Any advice?
>
>Follow the instructions. Seriously, tinting windows isn't rocket science
>but
>it is harder than growing mold in the fridge. A brief lesson (my son did it
>professionally for awhile and this is his general procedure.):
>
>1. The window must be CLEAN. Washing won't do. Scrape it down with a razor
>blade. Single edge works best. They used ammonia based cleaner in the tint
>shop. Don't get it in your eyes.
>
>2. Wet the window down on the outside with distilled water using a spray
>bottle. Stick your tint to the window with the peel back film out. Don't
>peel it yet.
>
>3. Locate your tint the way it will fit, then trim it with a good pair of
>scissors.
>
>4. Wet down the inside of the glass with the spray bottle of distilled
>water. Use plenty, you can't over wet it.
>
>5. Peel the backing. Don't try this in the wind. Work in a garage if
>possible or practical.
>
>6. Place the tint against the glass, beginning in the center. Try not to
>let
>it stick against itself or wrinkle badly.
>
>7. Using the rubber squeegee that came with your tint or in a tint kit,
>start at the middle and pull the bubbles out of the area between the tint
>and the glass. This moves the water out and lets the glue stick. Once you
>get an area started in the middle, you shouldn't have much trouble with the
>tint sliding around. Before you get very much squeegeed, be sure you put it
>on in the right place. You don't want overlap on your seals on one side and
>clear glass on the other.
>
>8. I squeegee up first, then to the sides, then down because water runs
>down
>and that makes the top tend to dry out first. If you cut the tint to fit
>correctly, the excess water should roll right out onto the inside of the
>tint (inside being the interior of the truck).
>
>9. After sqeegeeing the first time, repeat. Then repeat again. Get every
>last bubble out. It may not look bad at this point, but it will later.
>
>10. The tint must dry 48 hours on a moving window before you roll it down
>or
>it will peel off the window. The same goes for cleaning the inside of the
>tint. When you do clean it, use a mild cleaner on a soft, damp cloth of
>chamois. Do not use paper towel as it can scratch.
>
>11. Go back and check the edges about an hour after sqeegeeing, maybe
>sooner
>if it is very hot.
>
>The nice thing about plastic tint is that you can always scrape it off and
>do it over if you don't like the way it turned out. The smaller a window
>is,
>the easier it is to do. Flat windows are easier to do than curved. Hatch
>back windows are a ## %# (fill in your favorite expletive). A pickup is
>relatively easy.
>
>The next time I do my door glasses, I am going to remove them from the
>door,
>tint them, then reinstall them. The reason is twofold. When I installed my
>new window seals, they peeled my tint because it didn't go below the seal
>when rolled all of the way up. Second, I don't care for the bare glass that
>shows around the edges when you roll down your window.
>
>Lastly, legal advice. Check your local and state laws before installing
>tint.Don't tint your windshield. Federal law prohibits that. Bryan, in
>your
>case, state law allows you to put any kind of tint on any of your side and
>rear glasse that you want on your 66, but I would check to see if Houston
>has special tint laws. I would install whatever your local inspection
>station says would pass for a new car. Texas law limits how dark the
>driver's and passenger's front door glasses can be on vehicles 1989 model
>and later. Most reliable tint shops will only follow the latest guidelines
>and won't allow you to put tint that is too dark on. The reason is the
>police want to be able to see in if they stop you. You don't want to end up
>ventilated because some trigger happy policeperson couldn't see in when you
>got stopped for a burnt out tail light. Tint laws vary from state to to
>state as do many laws applying to motor vehicles.
>
>BTW, regardless of who does it, get it done. It is well worth the money
>IMHO.
>
>
>Sorry this was so long, but inquiring minds want to know. If this sounds to
>hard to do, then go to a professional tint shop that offers a lifetime
>warranty on their work. I know they exist, my neighbor owns such a shop.
>BTW, My son and I tinted the truck while the Towncar was done
>professionally
>befor eI bought it. You can't tell the difference in our jobs. Doing it
>ourself will save you about 50% of the price.
>
>Robert is right about the ammonia based cleaners.
>
>-- John
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com
>1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>Dearborn iron rules!!!!
>
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>


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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 20:20:05 CDT
From: Robert Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Lessons learned on removing stubborn distributors

Don't know if you've had previous experience with Duraspark, but I decided
to put one in my '68 F100 300 c.i.d. six a few years ago. A very good mod,
wished I'd bought one long before. Good luck!


>From: "Robert Hutchinson"
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To:
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Lessons learned on removing stubborn distributors
>Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 07:06:55 -0400
>
>I have replaced the 302 in my 78 F-100 with a 360 out of a friend's 72.
>The
>engine ran pretty well so I wasn't concerned about rebuilding it, just
>getting it in my truck so that it was drivable again. Well, I wanted to
>replace the points-style distributor with a Duraspark, but the distributor
>was absolutely frozen in place, (yes, I had removed the hold down bracket).
>So, using a hammer and a block of wood I lightly tapped from side to
>side.....nothing. So I tapped harder.......and after a while a little
>harder until it finally broke loose and the housing would turn. But the
>distributor still would not come out, at all. I gave up for the time
>being,
>installed the engine and was just going to use the points style for a while
>until I could figure out what was going on. The truck started up and ran,
>but it wasn't long before I was thinking about swapping to a Duraspark
>dist.
>(It wasn't long before I learned that the points style distributor I had
>was
>badly worn on the lobes) It took me the better part of a day and all of
>the
>muscle I have, using a 3 ft crowbar to remove the distributor. As it
>turned
>out, the distributor housing was broken in two about midway down, (from my
>hammer persuasion apparently), allowing the top part of the housing to
>rotate but the lower part still firmly siezed to the block.
>
>So, now I'm getting ready to pull the engine out again to remove the metal
>pieces of the dist. housing that broke off and that fell down in the dist
>hole and while I'm in there I'm going to replace the bearings and rings.
>
>There were two mistakes I made during this process though. One was not
>using enough penetrating liquid and patience, and two, I should have
>decided
>to remove the distributor before I had installed it in the truck. Now if I
>can just find a good engine stand.......
>
>Robert E. Hutchinson
>hutch297 groupz.net
>'78 F-100 Custom
>'79 F-150 Ranger, (parts truck)
>
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 20:24:35 CDT
From: Robert Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - brake lining material

Facetiosly yours!


>From: "John LaGrone"
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: "-FordTruckDigest"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - brake lining material
>Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 09:34:07 -0500
>
>For Robert Brown and James Shanks:
>
>I hope you were being facetious about the brevity of the brake heat
>dissapation thread. You two wasted more bandwidth with your unsnipped
>replies than a newbie who sends messages three or four times and doesn't
>supress his headers. Sorry Ken, I know this is your territory, but I had
>one
>nerve left and they got on it.
>
>Now to the business at hand. After following the thread I have concluded
>that if you are buying pads for newer, thinner rotors, the thicker organic
>pads would contribute to early rotor warpage due to excessive heat
>retention. Metalic pads wear out rotors faster than the other kinds. I have
>usually opted for semi-metallic where available and shall continue to do so
>as they appear to be a good compromise for our year of trucks.
>
>-- John
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com
>1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>Dearborn iron rules!!!!
>
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 20:25:53 CDT
From: Robert Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Install

The last two times I had engines done Castrol 10W-30 was recommended.


>From: David Henderson
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - New Engine Install
>Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 10:25:33 -0400
>
>OK... After a lot of time, money, and work, I'm finally going to install
>my
>new 300 this evening. I'm having the flywheel turned this morning and
>picking
>up the last supplies after work (oil, antifreeze, etc...). I have a couple
>of
>questions before I start this evening, though.
>
>The first is: What is the best oil to use to break in this engine?
>And the second is actually for Tony Marino: What does your throttle
>mounting
>bracket look like? Did you just mount a fabricated piece of metal to the
>exhaust/intake studs and then mount the factory throttle bracket to that?
>
>Thanks for the help!!
>
>Dave H
>
>
>--
> _
> _| ~~. David Henderson
> \, _} DHenders VT.Edu
> \( Gig 'em Aggies! '93
>
>Currently at:
>Interdepartmental Genetics Program
>2010 Litton Reaves Hall
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 20:27:55 CDT
From: Robert Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tinting

Scrape it off.


>From: Larry Schmiedekamp
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tinting
>Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 10:18:58 -0500
>
> >>I'm thinking of tinting my windows.
>Any advice?
>
>Follow the instructions. Seriously, tinting windows isn't rocket science
>but
>it is harder than growing mold in the fridge. A brief lesson (my son did it
>professionally for awhile and this is his general procedure.):
>
>Is there a lesson for remove window tint. Mine is old and cracked with
>bubbles.
>
>TIA
>
>Larry
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 20:44:45 -0500
From: "Johannes Fluetter"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint

Where in OK are you located, Rob?

John F.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Brown
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, June 21, 1999 8:22 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint


>Just take it to a shop, it shouldn't cost you over $65 to have it done and
>have a guarantee (can probably get it done for as low as $35). If you bring
>it to Oklahoma, my brother'll do it for you! Ha-ha!!
>
>
>>From: "John LaGrone"
>>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>>To: "-FordTruckDigest"
>>Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint
>>Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 18:02:36 -0500
>>
>> >>I'm thinking of tinting my windows.
>>Any advice?
>>
>>Follow the instructions. Seriously, tinting windows isn't rocket science
>>but
>>it is harder than growing mold in the fridge. A brief lesson (my son did
it
>>professionally for awhile and this is his general procedure.):
>>
>>1. The window must be CLEAN. Washing won't do. Scrape it down with a razor
>>blade. Single edge works best. They used ammonia based cleaner in the tint
>>shop. Don't get it in your eyes.
>>
>>2. Wet the window down on the outside with distilled water using a spray
>>bottle. Stick your tint to the window with the peel back film out. Don't
>>peel it yet.
>>
>>3. Locate your tint the way it will fit, then trim it with a good pair of
>>scissors.
>>
>>4. Wet down the inside of the glass with the spray bottle of distilled
>>water. Use plenty, you can't over wet it.
>>
>>5. Peel the backing. Don't try this in the wind. Work in a garage if
>>possible or practical.
>>
>>6. Place the tint against the glass, beginning in the center. Try not to
>>let
>>it stick against itself or wrinkle badly.
>>
>>7. Using the rubber squeegee that came with your tint or in a tint kit,
>>start at the middle and pull the bubbles out of the area between the tint
>>and the glass. This moves the water out and lets the glue stick. Once you
>>get an area started in the middle, you shouldn't have much trouble with
the
>>tint sliding around. Before you get very much squeegeed, be sure you put
it
>>on in the right place. You don't want overlap on your seals on one side
and
>>clear glass on the other.
>>
>>8. I squeegee up first, then to the sides, then down because water runs
>>down
>>and that makes the top tend to dry out first. If you cut the tint to fit
>>correctly, the excess water should roll right out onto the inside of the
>>tint (inside being the interior of the truck).
>>
>>9. After sqeegeeing the first time, repeat. Then repeat again. Get every
>>last bubble out. It may not look bad at this point, but it will later.
>>
>>10. The tint must dry 48 hours on a moving window before you roll it down
>>or
>>it will peel off the window. The same goes for cleaning the inside of the
>>tint. When you do clean it, use a mild cleaner on a soft, damp cloth of
>>chamois. Do not use paper towel as it can scratch.
>>
>>11. Go back and check the edges about an hour after sqeegeeing, maybe
>>sooner
>>if it is very hot.
>>
>>The nice thing about plastic tint is that you can always scrape it off and
>>do it over if you don't like the way it turned out. The smaller a window
>>is,
>>the easier it is to do. Flat windows are easier to do than curved. Hatch
>>back windows are a ## %# (fill in your favorite expletive). A pickup is
>>relatively easy.
>>
>>The next time I do my door glasses, I am going to remove them from the
>>door,
>>tint them, then reinstall them. The reason is twofold. When I installed my
>>new window seals, they peeled my tint because it didn't go below the seal
>>when rolled all of the way up. Second, I don't care for the bare glass
that
>>shows around the edges when you roll down your window.
>>
>>Lastly, legal advice. Check your local and state laws before installing
>>tint.Don't tint your windshield. Federal law prohibits that. Bryan, in
>>your
>>case, state law allows you to put any kind of tint on any of your side and
>>rear glasse that you want on your 66, but I would check to see if Houston
>>has special tint laws. I would install whatever your local inspection
>>station says would pass for a new car. Texas law limits how dark the
>>driver's and passenger's front door glasses can be on vehicles 1989 model
>>and later. Most reliable tint shops will only follow the latest guidelines
>>and won't allow you to put tint that is too dark on. The reason is the
>>police want to be able to see in if they stop you. You don't want to end
up
>>ventilated because some trigger happy policeperson couldn't see in when
you
>>got stopped for a burnt out tail light. Tint laws vary from state to to
>>state as do many laws applying to motor vehicles.
>>
>>BTW, regardless of who does it, get it done. It is well worth the money
>>IMHO.
>>
>>
>>Sorry this was so long, but inquiring minds want to know. If this sounds
to
>>hard to do, then go to a professional tint shop that offers a lifetime
>>warranty on their work. I know they exist, my neighbor owns such a shop.
>>BTW, My son and I tinted the truck while the Towncar was done
>>professionally
>>befor eI bought it. You can't tell the difference in our jobs. Doing it
>>ourself will save you about 50% of the price.
>>
>>Robert is right about the ammonia based cleaners.
>>
>>-- John
>>jlagrone ford-trucks.com
>>1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
>>http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>>Dearborn iron rules!!!!
>>
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>>
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 17:55:50 -0800
From: "Matthew Schumacher"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - NP203 and NP205

Hello all,

Anyone ever swap out a NP203 for a NP205 in a 76 F-150. I would like
to go to part time 4 wheel drive, but don't care for the conversion kit.

The truck is a 76 F-150 4x4, 390 engine, C6 tranny.

Is it a pain? Can it be done? Do I need a converter?

Schu
1976 4x4 390, C6, NP203

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 21:05:06 CDT
From: Robert Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint

Edmond (work in Anadarko)


>From: "Johannes Fluetter"
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
>Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 20:44:45 -0500
>
>Where in OK are you located, Rob?
>
>John F.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Robert Brown
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Monday, June 21, 1999 8:22 PM
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
>
>
> >Just take it to a shop, it shouldn't cost you over $65 to have it done
>and
> >have a guarantee (can probably get it done for as low as $35). If you
>bring
> >it to Oklahoma, my brother'll do it for you! Ha-ha!!
> >
> >
> >>From: "John LaGrone"
> >>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> >>To: "-FordTruckDigest"
> >>Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint
> >>Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 18:02:36 -0500
> >>
> >> >>I'm thinking of tinting my windows.
> >>Any advice?
> >>
> >>Follow the instructions. Seriously, tinting windows isn't rocket science
> >>but
> >>it is harder than growing mold in the fridge. A brief lesson (my son did
>it
> >>professionally for awhile and this is his general procedure.):
> >>
> >>1. The window must be CLEAN. Washing won't do. Scrape it down with a
>razor
> >>blade. Single edge works best. They used ammonia based cleaner in the
>tint
> >>shop. Don't get it in your eyes.
> >>
> >>2. Wet the window down on the outside with distilled water using a spray
> >>bottle. Stick your tint to the window with the peel back film out. Don't
> >>peel it yet.
> >>
> >>3. Locate your tint the way it will fit, then trim it with a good pair
>of
> >>scissors.
> >>
> >>4. Wet down the inside of the glass with the spray bottle of distilled
> >>water. Use plenty, you can't over wet it.
> >>
> >>5. Peel the backing. Don't try this in the wind. Work in a garage if
> >>possible or practical.
> >>
> >>6. Place the tint against the glass, beginning in the center. Try not to
> >>let
> >>it stick against itself or wrinkle badly.
> >>
> >>7. Using the rubber squeegee that came with your tint or in a tint kit,
> >>start at the middle and pull the bubbles out of the area between the
>tint
> >>and the glass. This moves the water out and lets the glue stick. Once
>you
> >>get an area started in the middle, you shouldn't have much trouble with
>the
> >>tint sliding around. Before you get very much squeegeed, be sure you put
>it
> >>on in the right place. You don't want overlap on your seals on one side
>and
> >>clear glass on the other.
> >>
> >>8. I squeegee up first, then to the sides, then down because water runs
> >>down
> >>and that makes the top tend to dry out first. If you cut the tint to fit
> >>correctly, the excess water should roll right out onto the inside of the
> >>tint (inside being the interior of the truck).
> >>
> >>9. After sqeegeeing the first time, repeat. Then repeat again. Get every
> >>last bubble out. It may not look bad at this point, but it will later.
> >>
> >>10. The tint must dry 48 hours on a moving window before you roll it
>down
> >>or
> >>it will peel off the window. The same goes for cleaning the inside of
>the
> >>tint. When you do clean it, use a mild cleaner on a soft, damp cloth of
> >>chamois. Do not use paper towel as it can scratch.
> >>
> >>11. Go back and check the edges about an hour after sqeegeeing, maybe
> >>sooner
> >>if it is very hot.
> >>
> >>The nice thing about plastic tint is that you can always scrape it off
>and
> >>do it over if you don't like the way it turned out. The smaller a window
> >>is,
> >>the easier it is to do. Flat windows are easier to do than curved. Hatch
> >>back windows are a ## %# (fill in your favorite expletive). A pickup is
> >>relatively easy.
> >>
> >>The next time I do my door glasses, I am going to remove them from the
> >>door,
> >>tint them, then reinstall them. The reason is twofold. When I installed....


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