From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #211
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61-79-list-digest Monday, June 21 1999 Volume 03 : Number 211



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Trim Posts
FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..
FTE 61-79 - Re: Finally, 460 brackets!
FTE 61-79 - BX brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..
FTE 61-79 - Tire Sizes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire Sizes
FTE 61-79 - RE: F-250 tire sizes
FTE 61-79 - Floorpan
Re: FTE 61-79 - Floorpan
FTE 61-79 - mixed 351 ??
FTE 61-79 - Need A/T kick linkage 300/6 w/4bbl
Re: FTE 61-79 - mixed 351 ??
FTE 61-79 - 66 disc brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 disc brakes
FTE 61-79 - Re: Disc Brake Conversion
FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lining material
FTE 61-79 - spelling error
FTE 61-79 - window tint
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..
FTE 61-79 - Steering Wheel Restoration
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70
Re: FTE 61-79 - F350 GVWR
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire sizes
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Tire Sizes
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..
FTE 61-79 - headders
Re: FTE 61-79 - headders
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering Wheel Restoration
FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lining material
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..

=======================================================================

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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 08:30:45 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Trim Posts

Could we please trim our posts a little? When we just reply to a long
thread with two or three replies attached, it wastes space on both the
list and in the archives. The thread on brake pads/heat dissapation has
taken up a lot of room on the last cuple of digests. When replying to a
long thread, highlight the piece you agree/disagree with and comment on
it. If anyone doesn't know the exact procedure on how to do this,
please let me know. I'll be glad to help.
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 09:45:38 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..

After driving the 70 miles to look at this 460 van for brackets, I found
out it was a '73 linc. engine, with orginal brackets...... that leaves me
with over 37 junkyards that have no 460's.. so.. i remember reading that
L&L products has a set of brackets, if so, whats their number? im tired of
looking around..

cannanadle
'78 F250 4x4, 460


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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 10:16:46 -0400
From: "Matthew Schwartz"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Finally, 460 brackets!

I havent followed your thread but I ran into a 460 pulley problem a few
weeks ago on a new rebuild. The solution for me was to further shim the the
alternator and power steering pump brackets, then purchase a Moroso
Waterpump snout - to - pulley spacer kit so I could align the top pulley
correctly. That did the trick, but what a pain...no junkyard around here
wanted me to strip the bracket/pulley assembly off.

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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 08:00:58 -0700
From: Eric
Subject: FTE 61-79 - BX brakes

Friends;
I'm preparing to do the disc conversion on my '66 Merc 250 Camper
Special, following Ken's excellent tech article. In trying to anticipate
problems, I have read that trucks with "BX" brakes might have different
steering linkage components which might complicate things. Does anyone know
about this? I thought the designation referred only to the different 12x2
1/2 lining size. Am I wrong about this?
Thanks guys and gals.

Eric

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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 10:24:55 -0600
From: "Randy Collins"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..

Cannondale,

L & L's phone number is (214) 475-5202

Did you say that you were looking for brackets from a van 460? I have never
heard of anyone using this setup for a 460 conversion. I would expect that
the van brackets were the same ones that were used on the 2WD pickups. I
know first hand that the 2WD 460 pickup brackets from the 70's Fords won't
work on you 78 F250 4x4.

The alternator mounts to low to clear the frame rail. The power steering
pump won't clear the steering box. If you try to relocate the power
steering pump the AC bracket no longer works.

The L&L brackets are very expensive. You have another option. I understand
that the serpentine belt setup from later model 460's works fine. Have you
considered this?

I built all of my brackets from scratch. It can be done but it is very time
consuming and I think it would be next to impossible with the front clip
still on the truck.

Hope this helps,

Randy Collins
1975 F250 Supercab with the following owner installed options
4x4 460 SCJ C6 - Enjoying the cold AC


>After driving the 70 miles to look at this 460 van for brackets, I found
>out it was a '73 linc. engine, with orginal brackets...... that leaves me
>with over 37 junkyards that have no 460's.. so.. i remember reading that
>L&L products has a set of brackets, if so, whats their number? im tired of
>looking around..
>
>cannanadle
>'78 F250 4x4, 460


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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 09:20:28 -0700
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tire Sizes

Ian:

Re: the 17" tire sizes, I have a couple of thoughts. Are you measuring
from the correct point? And second, do you have a former railroad
vehicle. I seem to remember that they used oversized tires and rims for
greater track clearance.

Just a few thoughts.

Tim
Burien, WA
71 F100


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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 13:46:07 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire Sizes

i measured from the beads, dunno if that is the correct point or not, where
should i be measuring from? as far as the railroad vehicle, im not sure, it
was a city truck for upper arlington ohio though, so that may very well be.

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M

True Blue,,,Ford Blue
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 13:44:28 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: F-250 tire sizes

Ian, what size tire are you running right now? Complete designation from
the sidewall please.

If you say you have 1/2 inch clearance, then 16.5's should fit, as the
innner diameter will only be .25 inch smaller then a 17" (1/2 the
difference in sizes in each side).

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Audi 4000CS Quattro
IsuzuG prodigy.net




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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 13:49:56 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Floorpan

does anybody know of a company that sells a complete floor pan for a regular
cab? I've found plenty of places that sell just right and left pans but what
about the tranmission tunnel and the area under the seat? anybody?

ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 13:01:23 CDT
From: Robert Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Floorpan

So Cal Pickups and Carolina Classics used to have complete floor pans.


>From: IanBoss69 aol.com
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Floorpan
>Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 13:49:56 EDT
>
>does anybody know of a company that sells a complete floor pan for a
>regular
>cab? I've found plenty of places that sell just right and left pans but
>what
>about the tranmission tunnel and the area under the seat? anybody?
>
>ian
>79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 15:52:19 -0400
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - mixed 351 ??

A question for the 351M gurus :

I noticed that the 351M has "dish" style pistons, and the
302/351W has flattops. Since they all have the same
4.00" bore, is it possible to put the pistons from a 302 or
a 351W into a 351M for a wee bit more compression, or
would the valves of the 351M collide with the flattop
pistons of the 302/351W and make a bigger mess than
necessary ?



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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 15:48:50 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Need A/T kick linkage 300/6 w/4bbl

Forwarded for: jcarbone


I just installed a Offenhauser manifold with a Holley 390 cfm 4bbl. and
Hedman dual-outlet headers on my '78 F-100 with a 300 c.i. 6 cyl. and
C-6 automatic.

I fabricated the throttle linkage but........... I still need to hook-up
my A/T kick-down linkage.

Does anybody make such an item? I looked through my Clifford catalog and
I didn't notice any.

Any info would be appreciated!

Ken....Great site......First time at Pigeon Forge this year... really
enjoyed it....Thanks for setting-up the block of hotel rooms.


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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 14:35:23 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - mixed 351 ??

No the W pistons have a different compression height than the M pistons.
However P.A.W. does carry forged flat top pistons for the 351M.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Serian
To: 61-79 FordList
Date: Sunday, June 20, 1999 12:53 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - mixed 351 ??


>A question for the 351M gurus :
>
>I noticed that the 351M has "dish" style pistons, and the
>302/351W has flattops. Since they all have the same
>4.00" bore, is it possible to put the pistons from a 302 or
>a 351W into a 351M for a wee bit more compression, or
>would the valves of the 351M collide with the flattop
>pistons of the 302/351W and make a bigger mess than
>necessary ?



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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 21:35:19 GMT
From: Joe Swinko
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 disc brakes

can I use 1974 F-250 4x2 disc brakes on my f-100?
I just need to know if they will work.

Joe Swinko


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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 18:17:56 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 disc brakes

At 09:35 PM 6/20/99 +0000, you wrote:
>can I use 1974 F-250 4x2 disc brakes on my f-100?
>I just need to know if they will work.
>
>Joe Swinko
>
>

No. You can use F-100 brakes.

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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 15:39:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Disc Brake Conversion

You can plumb the pressure switch into one of the
brakelines. The lights will go on when the pressure in
that line exceeds the rating of the switch. I use one
in the rear lines of my '53 F100 with power disc
brakes and dual master cylinder. I have drums in the
rear.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C=4V

>We have been converting a 1965 F100 to disc brakes,
following thearticle
>from the website. The job is nearly complete, meaning
the truck stops
>nicely... however, there is one small problem
remaining. The new brake
>system is from a 74 F100. The brake lights don't
work, because there'sno
>place to hook them up! Does anyone have any ideas to
fix this? Can the
>pressure switch from the 65 be reused somehow, or do
we have to makethe
>brakelight switch (pedal operated) from the 74 work
in the 65 somehow?


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 15:53:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lining material

The ability of a rotor to dissipate heat is a function
of surface area not thickness. A thick rotor has
almost the same surface area as a thin one, but a thin
one will warp sooner than a thick one. Yes, older
rotors were thicker, but they could be cut several
times before they would warp. Today's rotors can not
take much cutting. This is a manufacturers cost
saving, as well as fuel saving in having a lighter
rotor. Organic pads are softer and will save your
rotors, but they wear fast and tend to sqeal more.
It's your choice to change pads more often(if you
forget your rotor is gone anyway) or get more wear out
of your pads and risk your rotors.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V

>>>I don't think you'll need them, you see the older
rotors are thickerand>can
>>>stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go
organic andleave the
>>>metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older
models only".>>>>
>>Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes
it HARDER todissipate
>>heat, not easier

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 18:01:46 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - spelling error

>>My bother has an 84 Marquis with over 200K

That should have been brother, not bother, but hey, if the shoe fits........

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 18:02:36 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint

>>I'm thinking of tinting my windows.
Any advice?

Follow the instructions. Seriously, tinting windows isn't rocket science but
it is harder than growing mold in the fridge. A brief lesson (my son did it
professionally for awhile and this is his general procedure.):

1. The window must be CLEAN. Washing won't do. Scrape it down with a razor
blade. Single edge works best. They used ammonia based cleaner in the tint
shop. Don't get it in your eyes.

2. Wet the window down on the outside with distilled water using a spray
bottle. Stick your tint to the window with the peel back film out. Don't
peel it yet.

3. Locate your tint the way it will fit, then trim it with a good pair of
scissors.

4. Wet down the inside of the glass with the spray bottle of distilled
water. Use plenty, you can't over wet it.

5. Peel the backing. Don't try this in the wind. Work in a garage if
possible or practical.

6. Place the tint against the glass, beginning in the center. Try not to let
it stick against itself or wrinkle badly.

7. Using the rubber squeegee that came with your tint or in a tint kit,
start at the middle and pull the bubbles out of the area between the tint
and the glass. This moves the water out and lets the glue stick. Once you
get an area started in the middle, you shouldn't have much trouble with the
tint sliding around. Before you get very much squeegeed, be sure you put it
on in the right place. You don't want overlap on your seals on one side and
clear glass on the other.

8. I squeegee up first, then to the sides, then down because water runs down
and that makes the top tend to dry out first. If you cut the tint to fit
correctly, the excess water should roll right out onto the inside of the
tint (inside being the interior of the truck).

9. After sqeegeeing the first time, repeat. Then repeat again. Get every
last bubble out. It may not look bad at this point, but it will later.

10. The tint must dry 48 hours on a moving window before you roll it down or
it will peel off the window. The same goes for cleaning the inside of the
tint. When you do clean it, use a mild cleaner on a soft, damp cloth of
chamois. Do not use paper towel as it can scratch.

11. Go back and check the edges about an hour after sqeegeeing, maybe sooner
if it is very hot.

The nice thing about plastic tint is that you can always scrape it off and
do it over if you don't like the way it turned out. The smaller a window is,
the easier it is to do. Flat windows are easier to do than curved. Hatch
back windows are a ## %# (fill in your favorite expletive). A pickup is
relatively easy.

The next time I do my door glasses, I am going to remove them from the door,
tint them, then reinstall them. The reason is twofold. When I installed my
new window seals, they peeled my tint because it didn't go below the seal
when rolled all of the way up. Second, I don't care for the bare glass that
shows around the edges when you roll down your window.

Lastly, legal advice. Check your local and state laws before installing
tint.Don't tint your windshield. Federal law prohibits that. Bryan, in your
case, state law allows you to put any kind of tint on any of your side and
rear glasse that you want on your 66, but I would check to see if Houston
has special tint laws. I would install whatever your local inspection
station says would pass for a new car. Texas law limits how dark the
driver's and passenger's front door glasses can be on vehicles 1989 model
and later. Most reliable tint shops will only follow the latest guidelines
and won't allow you to put tint that is too dark on. The reason is the
police want to be able to see in if they stop you. You don't want to end up
ventilated because some trigger happy policeperson couldn't see in when you
got stopped for a burnt out tail light. Tint laws vary from state to to
state as do many laws applying to motor vehicles.

BTW, regardless of who does it, get it done. It is well worth the money
IMHO.


Sorry this was so long, but inquiring minds want to know. If this sounds to
hard to do, then go to a professional tint shop that offers a lifetime
warranty on their work. I know they exist, my neighbor owns such a shop.
BTW, My son and I tinted the truck while the Towncar was done professionally
befor eI bought it. You can't tell the difference in our jobs. Doing it
ourself will save you about 50% of the price.

Robert is right about the ammonia based cleaners.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 19:23:13 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..

What year did ford start using serpentine on their 460's?? I would really
like to go this way if possible. I was planning to do this orginally, but
never really got into doing it. I have a serpentine clutch for a york
compressor that was sent to me by somebody on this list.. cant remeber the
name.. oh well.. what all wqould be involved in changing over? i remember
hearing that you have to have a reverse-rotation water pump..

About the van brackets, their not the same by any means. I have parts of a
setup. the alternator bracket and power steering. the van allready had
the a/c bracket taken off.. they work fine, except for the power steering
bracket, comes very, very, close to the gear-box, and the pulley is maybe
1/4 away from it, so I dont like that very much..

I will look into finding a serpertine setup, but so far I havent found ANY
junkyeards that have a truck that a 460 in it, new or old..

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

At 12:24 PM 6/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Cannondale,
>
>L & L's phone number is (214) 475-5202
>
>Did you say that you were looking for brackets from a van 460? I have never
>heard of anyone using this setup for a 460 conversion. I would expect that
>the van brackets were the same ones that were used on the 2WD pickups. I
>know first hand that the 2WD 460 pickup brackets from the 70's Fords won't
>work on you 78 F250 4x4.
>
>The alternator mounts to low to clear the frame rail. The power steering
>pump won't clear the steering box. If you try to relocate the power
>steering pump the AC bracket no longer works.
>
>The L&L brackets are very expensive. You have another option. I understand
>that the serpentine belt setup from later model 460's works fine. Have you
>considered this?
>
>I built all of my brackets from scratch. It can be done but it is very time
>consuming and I think it would be next to impossible with the front clip
>still on the truck.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Randy Collins
>1975 F250 Supercab with the following owner installed options
>4x4 460 SCJ C6 - Enjoying the cold AC
>
>
>>After driving the 70 miles to look at this 460 van for brackets, I found
>>out it was a '73 linc. engine, with orginal brackets...... that leaves me
>>with over 37 junkyards that have no 460's.. so.. i remember reading that
>>L&L products has a set of brackets, if so, whats their number? im tired of
>>looking around..
>>
>>cannanadle
>>'78 F250 4x4, 460
>
>
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>


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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 19:19:42 -0700
From: "O'Connor"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering Wheel Restoration

Sorry Guys
I finally found the article to fix steering wheels. It's the June 1997
Issue of the Custom Classic Trucks. On page 88, there is a real nice
article with steps and pictures. Also, its listes the vendors who supplies
the material.

Tim 66F100 SWB 352 O/D and P/S
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 19:57:47 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70

In a message dated 6/17/99 3:06:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
FORDTRKNUT aol.com writes:


(from a junkyard for $35.00) >>

WOW!!! I had to replace mine, and it was $500. Of course, it was alos the
HD Dana 70, which has the larger bearings, but still. WOW!!!

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 20:07:20 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70

In a message dated 6/18/99 6:16:58 AM Pacific Daylight Time, wish iastate.edu
writes:


part of Route 66 a couple years ago ... it was at an RV park, they were
still usin it to move those huge 5th wheel and gooseneck trailers ... it
caught my eye because it was the opposite colors of mine, green on top,
white on the bottom ... Now I know.... >>

If ya wanna see another, look under the Pictorial. Mine is there. I need to
update the info, but the looks aint changed much. (Still Fugly) But Body
work is the last step, cuz I wont be caught sittin pretty cuz the engine died.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 20:09:23 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - F350 GVWR

In a message dated 6/18/99 6:34:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
luxjo thecore.com writes:

>
Well Mine is 10k, but the one my dad uses for a pump truck is up to 12k I
believe. Still single wheel too. Its got a 600 gallon tank on it, and lots
of associated paraphenalia, so 10k wouldnt cut it.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 20:15:02 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire sizes

In a message dated 6/18/99 10:29:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time, kathym cio.net
writes:


bar adjustments are a possibility. >>

Torsion bars on a 79 F-250???? Id like to see that truck! :)

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 20:20:54 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Tire Sizes

Just for kicks I'll throw in my POV. My F-350 has 16.5s, and they work fine.
Although my truck is a 2wd, it is a Super Camper Special, which as far as I
know had the biggest brakes you could get.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 20:25:01 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack..

In a message dated 6/20/99 4:21:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
cannandale netpointe.com writes:


compressor that was sent to me by somebody on this list.. cant remeber the
name.. oh well. >>

Forgotten lil ole me already? Im hurt!

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 08:05:57 -0400
From: Marc A Stine
Subject: FTE 61-79 - headders

It's time for new headders on Clifford (79 F-150 4X4 351M), the old ones
seem to be, well how's the easiest way to put it, rusting into nothing.
I've never replaced a set before and was wondering if you guys had any
suggestions or words of wisdom. I also was wondering what brand to go
with that is cost effective (not overly expensive, yet not going to need
replacing five years from now). I've surfed around the web a little bit
trying to get an idea for how much this little project is gonna run me,
but didn't really get any prices. I'm going to check with a couple guys
here in town probablly after payday this week, but I don't want to pass
out from sticker shock or anything. So anything you can throw my way
would be greatly apreciated.

Marc
-Clifford 79 F-150 4X4 351M Shortbed Stepside
-Patch 79 F-150 4X4 300 (for when Clifford is in the shop)

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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 18:02:54 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - headders

Well the cheapest ceramic coated (Jet Hot) that I've seen is the Dynomax for
$199. They're the old Cyclone/Blackjack design (Dynomax bought 'em out) and
they carry a lifetime rust through warranty. They're coated both inside and
out. Even if you found a set of uncoated for cheap it's still gonna cost you
a minimum of $200 (approx.) + shipping just to get 'em coated with Jet Hot
or HPC. Believe me I've checked it out.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Marc A Stine
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, June 20, 1999 5:31 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - headders


>It's time for new headders on Clifford (79 F-150 4X4 351M), the old ones
>seem to be, well how's the easiest way to put it, rusting into nothing.
>I've never replaced a set before and was wondering if you guys had any
>suggestions or words of wisdom. I also was wondering what brand to go
>with that is cost effective (not overly expensive, yet not going to need
>replacing five years from now). I've surfed around the web a little bit
>trying to get an idea for how much this little project is gonna run me,
>but didn't really get any prices. I'm going to check with a couple guys
>here in town probablly after payday this week, but I don't want to pass
>out from sticker shock or anything. So anything you can throw my way
>would be greatly apreciated.



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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 18:05:29 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering Wheel Restoration

How can I get a copy of that article?

Mike in Burien


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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 19:29:30 -0700
From: "K. Moulton"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles

Help..... OK. My plug wires are fine. My plugs have been burning
evenly, light tan to a little on the yellowish side. Getting spark to
each plug. New points. Carb is admittedly not in great shape. Just
changed the oil. Truck was running a little rough, attributed that to
the carb... but two days ago it started making this gawdawful sound that
I initially thought was maybe torque converter or its bolts, sound
lasted about half a mile (going uphill) then quit as suddenly as it
began. Also, the intensity of the noise corresponded w/ RPM levels.
Next day, truck's running really bad, like it's running on 5 of 8
cylinders, no power whatsoever, barely pulls the hill to my house but
will go 70 on the flats. It's a 390, whatever that's worth. Gotta put
it in neutral at a stop to keep it running it's so bad. I don't have a
compression tester, but how accurate is my speculation that perhaps 1)
I've lost a couple compression rings somehow or 2) something broke in
the valve train and now I have hole(s) in piston(s) or 3) ??? I don't
know??? Geez, it's only got 73K on it, is it supposed to break at that
low of mileage? I'm terribly afraid I'll be told that the Ford Fairy
isn't going to come wave her magic wand and make the booboo ok... uh
huh, I know. Still, any thoughts on the problem, and the potential
expense I'm looking at in fixing it? Or should I just bag it and pick
up that 360 my favorite boneyard just got in (compression tests 120-130)
for $300 exchange? Any input is appreciated in advance.... Thanks!

Kathy

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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 20:42:21 -0600
From: james shanks
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lining material

That's almost like saying which weighs more a pound of feathers or a pound
of gold?
the thinner one only warps because it can not.not.not dissipate the heat
like a thicker one!
If it could it would not warp! You say organic squeak more ? what happens
when you rub metal to meal? ie......... semi met pads??? and if it weren't
for the fact that they found
out that asbestos caused cancer we would still be using organic pads! why
fix it if it isn't broke? because they haddd toooo...,,for more than just
that reason a loan.....but it was
the largest single reason............... they are think of going to ceramic
rotors....? throw
away type..... and they are also thing of going to electric motors, in place
of wheel cyl's
controlled by computers, yes you can all ways say you heard it here first
.The reason for wear which I think is negligible of the organic pads, is not
the pads them self's, because
remember we are stopping less weight in newer vech's, it s heat ....heat....
ie what I mean by that is(forget the thickness problem for now) is the old
cars and trucks were proportioned at about 60% front 40% rears a fairly even
split- the rears did as much work
as the fronts( the heat has displaced evenly- front to rear) the newer cars
and trucks
are proportioned about 85% fronts 15% rears- most of the work is done up
front......
that's why on chevy pickups get about 100k miles on one set of rear
shoes.........
so the problem is complex no doubt but you have to take it all in to
consideration.

Dan Lee wrote:

> The ability of a rotor to dissipate heat is a function
> of surface area not thickness. A thick rotor has
> almost the same surface area as a thin one, but a thin
> one will warp sooner than a thick one. Yes, older
> rotors were thicker, but they could be cut several
> times before they would warp. Today's rotors can not
> take much cutting. This is a manufacturers cost
> saving, as well as fuel saving in having a lighter
> rotor. Organic pads are softer and will save your
> rotors, but they wear fast and tend to sqeal more.
> It's your choice to change pads more often(if you
> forget your rotor is gone anyway) or get more wear out
> of your pads and risk your rotors.
>
> Dan Lee
> '53 F100
> 351C-4V
>
> >>>I don't think you'll need them, you see the older
> rotors are thickerand>can
> >>>stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go
> organic andleave the
> >>>metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older
> models only".>>>>
> >>Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes
> it HARDER todissipate
> >>heat, not easier
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> >
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 21:18:55 -0600
From: james shanks
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles

Try looking at valve springs? Timing chain? poss bent valve? lifter
collapsed? also it could be a trans problem but I think its low on the might
be list. take off the valve cover off and watch the valves, they should all
move about the same. Also poss bent push rod
if it is, more than likely bent valve also. O by the way when you do this
ie... removing the valve covers you must start the engine and let it run it
wont take long to find the problem
if there is one.

"K. Moulton" wrote:

> Help..... OK. My plug wires are fine. My plugs have been burning
> evenly, light tan to a little on the yellowish side. Getting spark to
> each plug. New points. Carb is admittedly not in great shape. Just
> changed the oil. Truck was running a little rough, attributed that to
> the carb... but two days ago it started making this gawdawful sound that
> I initially thought was maybe torque converter or its bolts, sound
> lasted about half a mile (going uphill) then quit as suddenly as it
> began. Also, the intensity of the noise corresponded w/ RPM levels.
> Next day, truck's running really bad, like it's running on 5 of 8
> cylinders, no power whatsoever, barely pulls the hill to my house but
> will go 70 on the flats. It's a 390, whatever that's worth. Gotta put
> it in neutral at a stop to keep it running it's so bad. I don't have a
> compression tester, but how accurate is my speculation that perhaps 1)
> I've lost a couple compression rings somehow or 2) something broke in
> the valve train and now I have hole(s) in piston(s) or 3) ??? I don't
> know??? Geez, it's only got 73K on it, is it supposed to break at that
> low of mileage? I'm terribly afraid I'll be told that the Ford Fairy
> isn't going to come wave her magic wand and make the booboo ok... uh
> huh, I know. Still, any thoughts on the problem, and the potential
> expense I'm looking at in fixing it? Or should I just bag it and pick
> up that 360 my favorite boneyard just got in (compression tests 120-130)
> for $300 exchange? Any input is appreciated in advance.... Thanks!
>
> Kathy
>
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 21:22:37 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles

Kathy wrote...

> Truck was running a little rough, attributed that to
> the carb... but two days ago it started making this gawdawful sound that
> I initially thought was maybe torque converter or its bolts, sound
> lasted about half a mile (going uphill) then quit as suddenly as it
> began. Also, the intensity of the noise corresponded w/ RPM levels.
> Next day, truck's running really bad, like it's running on 5 of 8
> cylinders, no power whatsoever, barely pulls the hill to my house but
> will go 70 on the flats.
........

This reminds me of a timing chain that has slipped one tooth.
.........

> any thoughts on the problem, and the potential
> expense I'm looking at in fixing it? Or should I just bag it and pick
> up that 360 my favorite boneyard just got in (compression tests 120-130)
> for $300 exchange? Any input is appreciated in advance.... Thanks!
.........

Try to be patient and make an effort to fix the 390. I'm sure there are
many members on this list who can help you, but they need time to respond.


Danger

....


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