 |
|
|
|
|
|
From: owner-61-79-list-digest  ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest) To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #211 Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Errors-To: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Precedence: bulk 61-79-list-digest Monday, June 21 1999 Volume 03 : Number 211 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: FTE 61-79 - Trim Posts FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack.. FTE 61-79 - Re: Finally, 460 brackets! FTE 61-79 - BX brakes Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack.. FTE 61-79 - Tire Sizes Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire Sizes FTE 61-79 - RE: F-250 tire sizes FTE 61-79 - Floorpan Re: FTE 61-79 - Floorpan FTE 61-79 - mixed 351 ?? FTE 61-79 - Need A/T kick linkage 300/6 w/4bbl Re: FTE 61-79 - mixed 351 ?? FTE 61-79 - 66 disc brakes Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 disc brakes FTE 61-79 - Re: Disc Brake Conversion FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lining material FTE 61-79 - spelling error FTE 61-79 - window tint Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack.. FTE 61-79 - Steering Wheel Restoration Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70 Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70 Re: FTE 61-79 - F350 GVWR Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire sizes Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Tire Sizes Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack.. FTE 61-79 - headders Re: FTE 61-79 - headders Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering Wheel Restoration FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lining material Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack.. Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack.. ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 08:30:45 -0500 From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger) Subject: FTE 61-79 - Trim Posts Could we please trim our posts a little? When we just reply to a long thread with two or three replies attached, it wastes space on both the list and in the archives. The thread on brake pads/heat dissapation has taken up a lot of room on the last cuple of digests. When replying to a long thread, highlight the piece you agree/disagree with and comment on it. If anyone doesn't know the exact procedure on how to do this, please let me know. I'll be glad to help. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 09:45:38 -0500 From: cannandale netpointe.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack.. After driving the 70 miles to look at this 460 van for brackets, I found out it was a '73 linc. engine, with orginal brackets...... that leaves me with over 37 junkyards that have no 460's.. so.. i remember reading that L&L products has a set of brackets, if so, whats their number? im tired of looking around.. cannanadle '78 F250 4x4, 460 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 10:16:46 -0400 From: "Matthew Schwartz" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Finally, 460 brackets! I havent followed your thread but I ran into a 460 pulley problem a few weeks ago on a new rebuild. The solution for me was to further shim the the alternator and power steering pump brackets, then purchase a Moroso Waterpump snout - to - pulley spacer kit so I could align the top pulley correctly. That did the trick, but what a pain...no junkyard around here wanted me to strip the bracket/pulley assembly off. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 08:00:58 -0700 From: Eric Subject: FTE 61-79 - BX brakes Friends; I'm preparing to do the disc conversion on my '66 Merc 250 Camper Special, following Ken's excellent tech article. In trying to anticipate problems, I have read that trucks with "BX" brakes might have different steering linkage components which might complicate things. Does anyone know about this? I thought the designation referred only to the different 12x2 1/2 lining size. Am I wrong about this? Thanks guys and gals. Eric == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 10:24:55 -0600 From: "Randy Collins" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack.. Cannondale, L & L's phone number is (214) 475-5202 Did you say that you were looking for brackets from a van 460? I have never heard of anyone using this setup for a 460 conversion. I would expect that the van brackets were the same ones that were used on the 2WD pickups. I know first hand that the 2WD 460 pickup brackets from the 70's Fords won't work on you 78 F250 4x4. The alternator mounts to low to clear the frame rail. The power steering pump won't clear the steering box. If you try to relocate the power steering pump the AC bracket no longer works. The L&L brackets are very expensive. You have another option. I understand that the serpentine belt setup from later model 460's works fine. Have you considered this? I built all of my brackets from scratch. It can be done but it is very time consuming and I think it would be next to impossible with the front clip still on the truck. Hope this helps, Randy Collins 1975 F250 Supercab with the following owner installed options 4x4 460 SCJ C6 - Enjoying the cold AC >After driving the 70 miles to look at this 460 van for brackets, I found >out it was a '73 linc. engine, with orginal brackets...... that leaves me >with over 37 junkyards that have no 460's.. so.. i remember reading that >L&L products has a set of brackets, if so, whats their number? im tired of >looking around.. > >cannanadle >'78 F250 4x4, 460 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 09:20:28 -0700 From: Tim Bowman Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tire Sizes Ian: Re: the 17" tire sizes, I have a couple of thoughts. Are you measuring from the correct point? And second, do you have a former railroad vehicle. I seem to remember that they used oversized tires and rims for greater track clearance. Just a few thoughts. Tim Burien, WA 71 F100 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 13:46:07 EDT From: IanBoss69 aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire Sizes i measured from the beads, dunno if that is the correct point or not, where should i be measuring from? as far as the railroad vehicle, im not sure, it was a city truck for upper arlington ohio though, so that may very well be. Ian 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M True Blue,,,Ford Blue == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 13:44:28 -0400 From: "George W. Selby, III" Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: F-250 tire sizes Ian, what size tire are you running right now? Complete designation from the sidewall please. If you say you have 1/2 inch clearance, then 16.5's should fit, as the innner diameter will only be .25 inch smaller then a 17" (1/2 the difference in sizes in each side). George Selby 78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4 86 Audi 4000CS Quattro IsuzuG prodigy.net == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 13:49:56 EDT From: IanBoss69 aol.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Floorpan does anybody know of a company that sells a complete floor pan for a regular cab? I've found plenty of places that sell just right and left pans but what about the tranmission tunnel and the area under the seat? anybody? ian 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 13:01:23 CDT From: Robert Brown Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Floorpan So Cal Pickups and Carolina Classics used to have complete floor pans. >From: IanBoss69 aol.com >Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com >To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com >Subject: FTE 61-79 - Floorpan >Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 13:49:56 EDT > >does anybody know of a company that sells a complete floor pan for a >regular >cab? I've found plenty of places that sell just right and left pans but >what >about the tranmission tunnel and the area under the seat? anybody? > >ian >79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 15:52:19 -0400 From: "Serian" Subject: FTE 61-79 - mixed 351 ?? A question for the 351M gurus : I noticed that the 351M has "dish" style pistons, and the 302/351W has flattops. Since they all have the same 4.00" bore, is it possible to put the pistons from a 302 or a 351W into a 351M for a wee bit more compression, or would the valves of the 351M collide with the flattop pistons of the 302/351W and make a bigger mess than necessary ? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 15:48:50 -0400 From: Ken Payne Subject: FTE 61-79 - Need A/T kick linkage 300/6 w/4bbl Forwarded for: jcarbone I just installed a Offenhauser manifold with a Holley 390 cfm 4bbl. and Hedman dual-outlet headers on my '78 F-100 with a 300 c.i. 6 cyl. and C-6 automatic. I fabricated the throttle linkage but........... I still need to hook-up my A/T kick-down linkage. Does anybody make such an item? I looked through my Clifford catalog and I didn't notice any. Any info would be appreciated! Ken....Great site......First time at Pigeon Forge this year... really enjoyed it....Thanks for setting-up the block of hotel rooms. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 14:35:23 -0700 From: "Bill Beyer" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - mixed 351 ?? No the W pistons have a different compression height than the M pistons. However P.A.W. does carry forged flat top pistons for the 351M. "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" - -----Original Message----- From: Serian To: 61-79 FordList Date: Sunday, June 20, 1999 12:53 PM Subject: FTE 61-79 - mixed 351 ?? >A question for the 351M gurus : > >I noticed that the 351M has "dish" style pistons, and the >302/351W has flattops. Since they all have the same >4.00" bore, is it possible to put the pistons from a 302 or >a 351W into a 351M for a wee bit more compression, or >would the valves of the 351M collide with the flattop >pistons of the 302/351W and make a bigger mess than >necessary ? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 21:35:19 GMT From: Joe Swinko Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 disc brakes can I use 1974 F-250 4x2 disc brakes on my f-100? I just need to know if they will work. Joe Swinko _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 18:17:56 -0400 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 disc brakes At 09:35 PM 6/20/99 +0000, you wrote: >can I use 1974 F-250 4x2 disc brakes on my f-100? >I just need to know if they will work. > >Joe Swinko > > No. You can use F-100 brakes. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 15:39:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Dan Lee Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Disc Brake Conversion You can plumb the pressure switch into one of the brakelines. The lights will go on when the pressure in that line exceeds the rating of the switch. I use one in the rear lines of my '53 F100 with power disc brakes and dual master cylinder. I have drums in the rear. Dan Lee '53 F100 351C=4V >We have been converting a 1965 F100 to disc brakes, following thearticle >from the website. The job is nearly complete, meaning the truck stops >nicely... however, there is one small problem remaining. The new brake >system is from a 74 F100. The brake lights don't work, because there'sno >place to hook them up! Does anyone have any ideas to fix this? Can the >pressure switch from the 65 be reused somehow, or do we have to makethe >brakelight switch (pedal operated) from the 74 work in the 65 somehow? _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 15:53:39 -0700 (PDT) From: Dan Lee Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lining material The ability of a rotor to dissipate heat is a function of surface area not thickness. A thick rotor has almost the same surface area as a thin one, but a thin one will warp sooner than a thick one. Yes, older rotors were thicker, but they could be cut several times before they would warp. Today's rotors can not take much cutting. This is a manufacturers cost saving, as well as fuel saving in having a lighter rotor. Organic pads are softer and will save your rotors, but they wear fast and tend to sqeal more. It's your choice to change pads more often(if you forget your rotor is gone anyway) or get more wear out of your pads and risk your rotors. Dan Lee '53 F100 351C-4V >>>I don't think you'll need them, you see the older rotors are thickerand>can >>>stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go organic andleave the >>>metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older models only".>>>> >>Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes it HARDER todissipate >>heat, not easier _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 18:01:46 -0500 From: "John LaGrone" Subject: FTE 61-79 - spelling error >>My bother has an 84 Marquis with over 200K That should have been brother, not bother, but hey, if the shoe fits........ - -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com 1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 18:02:36 -0500 From: "John LaGrone" Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint >>I'm thinking of tinting my windows. Any advice? Follow the instructions. Seriously, tinting windows isn't rocket science but it is harder than growing mold in the fridge. A brief lesson (my son did it professionally for awhile and this is his general procedure.): 1. The window must be CLEAN. Washing won't do. Scrape it down with a razor blade. Single edge works best. They used ammonia based cleaner in the tint shop. Don't get it in your eyes. 2. Wet the window down on the outside with distilled water using a spray bottle. Stick your tint to the window with the peel back film out. Don't peel it yet. 3. Locate your tint the way it will fit, then trim it with a good pair of scissors. 4. Wet down the inside of the glass with the spray bottle of distilled water. Use plenty, you can't over wet it. 5. Peel the backing. Don't try this in the wind. Work in a garage if possible or practical. 6. Place the tint against the glass, beginning in the center. Try not to let it stick against itself or wrinkle badly. 7. Using the rubber squeegee that came with your tint or in a tint kit, start at the middle and pull the bubbles out of the area between the tint and the glass. This moves the water out and lets the glue stick. Once you get an area started in the middle, you shouldn't have much trouble with the tint sliding around. Before you get very much squeegeed, be sure you put it on in the right place. You don't want overlap on your seals on one side and clear glass on the other. 8. I squeegee up first, then to the sides, then down because water runs down and that makes the top tend to dry out first. If you cut the tint to fit correctly, the excess water should roll right out onto the inside of the tint (inside being the interior of the truck). 9. After sqeegeeing the first time, repeat. Then repeat again. Get every last bubble out. It may not look bad at this point, but it will later. 10. The tint must dry 48 hours on a moving window before you roll it down or it will peel off the window. The same goes for cleaning the inside of the tint. When you do clean it, use a mild cleaner on a soft, damp cloth of chamois. Do not use paper towel as it can scratch. 11. Go back and check the edges about an hour after sqeegeeing, maybe sooner if it is very hot. The nice thing about plastic tint is that you can always scrape it off and do it over if you don't like the way it turned out. The smaller a window is, the easier it is to do. Flat windows are easier to do than curved. Hatch back windows are a ## %# (fill in your favorite expletive). A pickup is relatively easy. The next time I do my door glasses, I am going to remove them from the door, tint them, then reinstall them. The reason is twofold. When I installed my new window seals, they peeled my tint because it didn't go below the seal when rolled all of the way up. Second, I don't care for the bare glass that shows around the edges when you roll down your window. Lastly, legal advice. Check your local and state laws before installing tint.Don't tint your windshield. Federal law prohibits that. Bryan, in your case, state law allows you to put any kind of tint on any of your side and rear glasse that you want on your 66, but I would check to see if Houston has special tint laws. I would install whatever your local inspection station says would pass for a new car. Texas law limits how dark the driver's and passenger's front door glasses can be on vehicles 1989 model and later. Most reliable tint shops will only follow the latest guidelines and won't allow you to put tint that is too dark on. The reason is the police want to be able to see in if they stop you. You don't want to end up ventilated because some trigger happy policeperson couldn't see in when you got stopped for a burnt out tail light. Tint laws vary from state to to state as do many laws applying to motor vehicles. BTW, regardless of who does it, get it done. It is well worth the money IMHO. Sorry this was so long, but inquiring minds want to know. If this sounds to hard to do, then go to a professional tint shop that offers a lifetime warranty on their work. I know they exist, my neighbor owns such a shop. BTW, My son and I tinted the truck while the Towncar was done professionally befor eI bought it. You can't tell the difference in our jobs. Doing it ourself will save you about 50% of the price. Robert is right about the ammonia based cleaners. - -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com 1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 19:23:13 -0500 From: cannandale netpointe.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack.. What year did ford start using serpentine on their 460's?? I would really like to go this way if possible. I was planning to do this orginally, but never really got into doing it. I have a serpentine clutch for a york compressor that was sent to me by somebody on this list.. cant remeber the name.. oh well.. what all wqould be involved in changing over? i remember hearing that you have to have a reverse-rotation water pump.. About the van brackets, their not the same by any means. I have parts of a setup. the alternator bracket and power steering. the van allready had the a/c bracket taken off.. they work fine, except for the power steering bracket, comes very, very, close to the gear-box, and the pulley is maybe 1/4 away from it, so I dont like that very much.. I will look into finding a serpertine setup, but so far I havent found ANY junkyeards that have a truck that a 460 in it, new or old.. cannandale '78 F250 4x4, 460 At 12:24 PM 6/20/99 -0500, you wrote: > >Cannondale, > >L & L's phone number is (214) 475-5202 > >Did you say that you were looking for brackets from a van 460? I have never >heard of anyone using this setup for a 460 conversion. I would expect that >the van brackets were the same ones that were used on the 2WD pickups. I >know first hand that the 2WD 460 pickup brackets from the 70's Fords won't >work on you 78 F250 4x4. > >The alternator mounts to low to clear the frame rail. The power steering >pump won't clear the steering box. If you try to relocate the power >steering pump the AC bracket no longer works. > >The L&L brackets are very expensive. You have another option. I understand >that the serpentine belt setup from later model 460's works fine. Have you >considered this? > >I built all of my brackets from scratch. It can be done but it is very time >consuming and I think it would be next to impossible with the front clip >still on the truck. > >Hope this helps, > >Randy Collins >1975 F250 Supercab with the following owner installed options >4x4 460 SCJ C6 - Enjoying the cold AC > > >>After driving the 70 miles to look at this 460 van for brackets, I found >>out it was a '73 linc. engine, with orginal brackets...... that leaves me >>with over 37 junkyards that have no 460's.. so.. i remember reading that >>L&L products has a set of brackets, if so, whats their number? im tired of >>looking around.. >> >>cannanadle >>'78 F250 4x4, 460 > > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 19:19:42 -0700 From: "O'Connor" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering Wheel Restoration Sorry Guys I finally found the article to fix steering wheels. It's the June 1997 Issue of the Custom Classic Trucks. On page 88, there is a real nice article with steps and pictures. Also, its listes the vendors who supplies the material. Tim 66F100 SWB 352 O/D and P/S == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 19:57:47 EDT From: JUMPINFORD aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70 In a message dated 6/17/99 3:06:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time, FORDTRKNUT aol.com writes: (from a junkyard for $35.00) >> WOW!!! I had to replace mine, and it was $500. Of course, it was alos the HD Dana 70, which has the larger bearings, but still. WOW!!! Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 20:07:20 EDT From: JUMPINFORD aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70 In a message dated 6/18/99 6:16:58 AM Pacific Daylight Time, wish iastate.edu writes: part of Route 66 a couple years ago ... it was at an RV park, they were still usin it to move those huge 5th wheel and gooseneck trailers ... it caught my eye because it was the opposite colors of mine, green on top, white on the bottom ... Now I know.... >> If ya wanna see another, look under the Pictorial. Mine is there. I need to update the info, but the looks aint changed much. (Still Fugly) But Body work is the last step, cuz I wont be caught sittin pretty cuz the engine died. Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 20:09:23 EDT From: JUMPINFORD aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - F350 GVWR In a message dated 6/18/99 6:34:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time, luxjo thecore.com writes: > Well Mine is 10k, but the one my dad uses for a pump truck is up to 12k I believe. Still single wheel too. Its got a 600 gallon tank on it, and lots of associated paraphenalia, so 10k wouldnt cut it. Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 20:15:02 EDT From: JUMPINFORD aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire sizes In a message dated 6/18/99 10:29:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time, kathym cio.net writes: bar adjustments are a possibility. >> Torsion bars on a 79 F-250???? Id like to see that truck! :) Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 20:20:54 EDT From: JUMPINFORD aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Tire Sizes Just for kicks I'll throw in my POV. My F-350 has 16.5s, and they work fine. Although my truck is a 2wd, it is a Super Camper Special, which as far as I know had the biggest brakes you could get. Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 20:25:01 EDT From: JUMPINFORD aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 van, ack.. In a message dated 6/20/99 4:21:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time, cannandale netpointe.com writes: compressor that was sent to me by somebody on this list.. cant remeber the name.. oh well. >> Forgotten lil ole me already? Im hurt! Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 08:05:57 -0400 From: Marc A Stine Subject: FTE 61-79 - headders It's time for new headders on Clifford (79 F-150 4X4 351M), the old ones seem to be, well how's the easiest way to put it, rusting into nothing. I've never replaced a set before and was wondering if you guys had any suggestions or words of wisdom. I also was wondering what brand to go with that is cost effective (not overly expensive, yet not going to need replacing five years from now). I've surfed around the web a little bit trying to get an idea for how much this little project is gonna run me, but didn't really get any prices. I'm going to check with a couple guys here in town probablly after payday this week, but I don't want to pass out from sticker shock or anything. So anything you can throw my way would be greatly apreciated. Marc -Clifford 79 F-150 4X4 351M Shortbed Stepside -Patch 79 F-150 4X4 300 (for when Clifford is in the shop) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 18:02:54 -0700 From: "Bill Beyer" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - headders Well the cheapest ceramic coated (Jet Hot) that I've seen is the Dynomax for $199. They're the old Cyclone/Blackjack design (Dynomax bought 'em out) and they carry a lifetime rust through warranty. They're coated both inside and out. Even if you found a set of uncoated for cheap it's still gonna cost you a minimum of $200 (approx.) + shipping just to get 'em coated with Jet Hot or HPC. Believe me I've checked it out. "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" - -----Original Message----- From: Marc A Stine To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Date: Sunday, June 20, 1999 5:31 PM Subject: FTE 61-79 - headders >It's time for new headders on Clifford (79 F-150 4X4 351M), the old ones >seem to be, well how's the easiest way to put it, rusting into nothing. >I've never replaced a set before and was wondering if you guys had any >suggestions or words of wisdom. I also was wondering what brand to go >with that is cost effective (not overly expensive, yet not going to need >replacing five years from now). I've surfed around the web a little bit >trying to get an idea for how much this little project is gonna run me, >but didn't really get any prices. I'm going to check with a couple guys >here in town probablly after payday this week, but I don't want to pass >out from sticker shock or anything. So anything you can throw my way >would be greatly apreciated. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 18:05:29 -0700 From: Mike Pacheco Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering Wheel Restoration How can I get a copy of that article? Mike in Burien == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 19:29:30 -0700 From: "K. Moulton" Subject: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles Help..... OK. My plug wires are fine. My plugs have been burning evenly, light tan to a little on the yellowish side. Getting spark to each plug. New points. Carb is admittedly not in great shape. Just changed the oil. Truck was running a little rough, attributed that to the carb... but two days ago it started making this gawdawful sound that I initially thought was maybe torque converter or its bolts, sound lasted about half a mile (going uphill) then quit as suddenly as it began. Also, the intensity of the noise corresponded w/ RPM levels. Next day, truck's running really bad, like it's running on 5 of 8 cylinders, no power whatsoever, barely pulls the hill to my house but will go 70 on the flats. It's a 390, whatever that's worth. Gotta put it in neutral at a stop to keep it running it's so bad. I don't have a compression tester, but how accurate is my speculation that perhaps 1) I've lost a couple compression rings somehow or 2) something broke in the valve train and now I have hole(s) in piston(s) or 3) ??? I don't know??? Geez, it's only got 73K on it, is it supposed to break at that low of mileage? I'm terribly afraid I'll be told that the Ford Fairy isn't going to come wave her magic wand and make the booboo ok... uh huh, I know. Still, any thoughts on the problem, and the potential expense I'm looking at in fixing it? Or should I just bag it and pick up that 360 my favorite boneyard just got in (compression tests 120-130) for $300 exchange? Any input is appreciated in advance.... Thanks! Kathy == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 20:42:21 -0600 From: james shanks Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake lining material That's almost like saying which weighs more a pound of feathers or a pound of gold? the thinner one only warps because it can not.not.not dissipate the heat like a thicker one! If it could it would not warp! You say organic squeak more ? what happens when you rub metal to meal? ie......... semi met pads??? and if it weren't for the fact that they found out that asbestos caused cancer we would still be using organic pads! why fix it if it isn't broke? because they haddd toooo...,,for more than just that reason a loan.....but it was the largest single reason............... they are think of going to ceramic rotors....? throw away type..... and they are also thing of going to electric motors, in place of wheel cyl's controlled by computers, yes you can all ways say you heard it here first .The reason for wear which I think is negligible of the organic pads, is not the pads them self's, because remember we are stopping less weight in newer vech's, it s heat ....heat.... ie what I mean by that is(forget the thickness problem for now) is the old cars and trucks were proportioned at about 60% front 40% rears a fairly even split- the rears did as much work as the fronts( the heat has displaced evenly- front to rear) the newer cars and trucks are proportioned about 85% fronts 15% rears- most of the work is done up front...... that's why on chevy pickups get about 100k miles on one set of rear shoes......... so the problem is complex no doubt but you have to take it all in to consideration. Dan Lee wrote: > The ability of a rotor to dissipate heat is a function > of surface area not thickness. A thick rotor has > almost the same surface area as a thin one, but a thin > one will warp sooner than a thick one. Yes, older > rotors were thicker, but they could be cut several > times before they would warp. Today's rotors can not > take much cutting. This is a manufacturers cost > saving, as well as fuel saving in having a lighter > rotor. Organic pads are softer and will save your > rotors, but they wear fast and tend to sqeal more. > It's your choice to change pads more often(if you > forget your rotor is gone anyway) or get more wear out > of your pads and risk your rotors. > > Dan Lee > '53 F100 > 351C-4V > > >>>I don't think you'll need them, you see the older > rotors are thickerand>can > >>>stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go > organic andleave the > >>>metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older > models only".>>>> > >>Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes > it HARDER todissipate > >>heat, not easier > > _________________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 21:18:55 -0600 From: james shanks Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles Try looking at valve springs? Timing chain? poss bent valve? lifter collapsed? also it could be a trans problem but I think its low on the might be list. take off the valve cover off and watch the valves, they should all move about the same. Also poss bent push rod if it is, more than likely bent valve also. O by the way when you do this ie... removing the valve covers you must start the engine and let it run it wont take long to find the problem if there is one. "K. Moulton" wrote: > Help..... OK. My plug wires are fine. My plugs have been burning > evenly, light tan to a little on the yellowish side. Getting spark to > each plug. New points. Carb is admittedly not in great shape. Just > changed the oil. Truck was running a little rough, attributed that to > the carb... but two days ago it started making this gawdawful sound that > I initially thought was maybe torque converter or its bolts, sound > lasted about half a mile (going uphill) then quit as suddenly as it > began. Also, the intensity of the noise corresponded w/ RPM levels. > Next day, truck's running really bad, like it's running on 5 of 8 > cylinders, no power whatsoever, barely pulls the hill to my house but > will go 70 on the flats. It's a 390, whatever that's worth. Gotta put > it in neutral at a stop to keep it running it's so bad. I don't have a > compression tester, but how accurate is my speculation that perhaps 1) > I've lost a couple compression rings somehow or 2) something broke in > the valve train and now I have hole(s) in piston(s) or 3) ??? I don't > know??? Geez, it's only got 73K on it, is it supposed to break at that > low of mileage? I'm terribly afraid I'll be told that the Ford Fairy > isn't going to come wave her magic wand and make the booboo ok... uh > huh, I know. Still, any thoughts on the problem, and the potential > expense I'm looking at in fixing it? Or should I just bag it and pick > up that 360 my favorite boneyard just got in (compression tests 120-130) > for $300 exchange? Any input is appreciated in advance.... Thanks! > > Kathy > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 21:22:37 -0700 From: "Danger" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 F100 Troubles Kathy wrote... > Truck was running a little rough, attributed that to > the carb... but two days ago it started making this gawdawful sound that > I initially thought was maybe torque converter or its bolts, sound > lasted about half a mile (going uphill) then quit as suddenly as it > began. Also, the intensity of the noise corresponded w/ RPM levels. > Next day, truck's running really bad, like it's running on 5 of 8 > cylinders, no power whatsoever, barely pulls the hill to my house but > will go 70 on the flats. ........ This reminds me of a timing chain that has slipped one tooth. ......... > any thoughts on the problem, and the potential > expense I'm looking at in fixing it? Or should I just bag it and pick > up that 360 my favorite boneyard just got in (compression tests 120-130) > for $300 exchange? Any input is appreciated in advance.... Thanks! ......... Try to be patient and make an effort to fix the 390. I'm sure there are many members on this list who can help you, but they need time to respond. Danger .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session
cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.
Advertising -
Terms of Use - Privacy Policy -
Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company. 
|