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From: owner-61-79-list-digest To: 61-79-list-digest Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #209 Reply-To: 61-79-list Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest Errors-To: owner-61-79-list-digest Precedence: bulk 61-79-list-digest Saturday, June 19 1999 Volume 03 : Number 209 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: FTE 61-79 - batteries was hot starting problems FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70 Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles FTE 61-79 - F350 GVWR FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto FTE 61-79 - auto vs manual tranny FTE 61-79 - hand turning engine FTE 61-79 - RE: Brake Calipers FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 Dana 70 Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles FTE 61-79 - window tint Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles FTE 61-79 - '67 disc brake conversion FTE 61-79 - Computers are Us (again) Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint Re: FTE 61-79 - '67 disc brake conversion Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint FTE 61-79 - 460 head questions Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint Re: FTE 61-79 - auto vs manual tranny Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint FTE 61-79 - Flywheel?? Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto FTE 61-79 - Tire sizes Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire sizes Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material Re: FTE 61-79 - auto vs manual tranny Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange Behavior (vaccum leak) FTE 61-79 - more tranny Q's FTE 61-79 - starter FYI ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 04:56:53 -0500 From: ballingr Subject: FTE 61-79 - batteries was hot starting problems > It is my understanding that a deep cycle battery doesn't work well in > automotive applications. They are designed to be severely discharged then > recharged like for a golf cart or a trolling motor. I've never tried one, > but I have read articles along this line several years ago. The technology > could have changed since then, but I doubt it. > > BTW, don't ever buy a maintanence free battery with no caps for adding > water. There is no such thing as maintanence free unless you count install > it then use it until it is no good. On a lead acid battery, that could be a > short period if you don't keep the cells in acid. I've tested quite a few batteries this past couple of weeks, and I agree with John, the "maintenence free" batttery will die in 3/4 the time of a normal battery. The only reason is that the water level gets low and it shorts out. Deep-cycles are not made to be surface charged(alternator type charge)but require being pulled down low and then charged with a trickle charger. There are marine starting batteries that are made for boats with alternators, but they are more like a car battery than a deep-cycle. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 05:06:31 -0500 From: ballingr Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles > > else said it well, to each his own. I also must add that before my > > enlightenment I owned at least 4 GM 700R4 overdrive autos, 3 of them in the > > same suburban. A new tranny every 15K or 20K is not my idea of fun whether > > it is manual or auto. > > WOW, did ford ever have these kind of problems? I put almost 20k miles on > my bronco this year, and who knows how many it's already got.. > The counter said 94k but I'm not sure this is true. It may not be the > original transmission. The E4-OD has given some problems, but it looks like they are getting them ironed out. The early ones just couldn't take much to break them. Even rebuilding them with updated parts didn't solve the troubles. We found that adjusting the TPS seemed to help. But on the last one in a '91 F250(a 3 time loser)we found a '97 trans and swapped it out. It's been 8 months and we're crossing our fingers. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 07:59:30 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles >The E4-OD has given some problems, but it looks like they are getting >them ironed out. The early ones just couldn't take much to break them. >Even rebuilding them with updated parts didn't solve the troubles. We >found that adjusting the TPS seemed to help. But on the last one in a >'91 F250(a 3 time loser)we found a '97 trans and swapped it out. It's >been 8 months and we're crossing our fingers. That's kind of ironic ... my sister has a 91 F250 with the E4OD, no problems with it, even ran it low when the gasket to the transfer case blew out ... the xfer case died, but the tranny is still goin strong ... over 100,000 on it, and no rebuild that we know of (we've only had it for the last 15,000 or so) .... she does have the 5.0 though, I wonder if most of the problems are related to high torque applications (ie 5.8+ and heavy towing, which she doesn't do any of ) Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 08:03:44 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material >I would go with the organic type, it has more stopping ability,not the the >best pad to dissipate heat with , but not as hard on the rotors, as far as >wear. Unless you plan to drag race from stop light to stop light, in which >you will need semi met pads to dissipate the heat away from the rotor, I >don't think you'll need them, you see the older rotors are thicker and can >stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go organic and leave the >metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older models only". Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes it HARDER to dissipate heat, not easier ... glass is a good example of this, if you take a very cold glass and dump hot/warm water into it, the thicker glasses will crack, possibly shatter. The thinner ones will look normal, and not sustain any cracking. Its much easier to dissipate heat when there's less volume to do it through.... I think the choice in pads has a lot to do with your driving style ... on my stang there is no way I'm gonna run organic pads, I race with it and would like to keep the pads there as long as possible ... granted its a lot new, but the same applies to our old Cougar and such, if I'm racin it, I don't want to be wonderin how much brake I just lost by tryin to take the last corner a bit faster ... Hmmm....sounds like I need to do some more research in this area as my assumptions that I've made to this point don't seem to be holding up very well ... Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 08:05:09 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70 >Super Camper Specials (140" wheel base...NOT the 133" standard >cab wheel base). These are the trucks with the rear wheel wells moved back >about 7" from a "regular" 8 foot bed. So that's what I saw!!!! I saw one of these in missouri when I was drivin part of Route 66 a couple years ago ... it was at an RV park, they were still usin it to move those huge 5th wheel and gooseneck trailers ... it caught my eye because it was the opposite colors of mine, green on top, white on the bottom ... Now I know.... Thanks, wish 73ish F-1?? 4x4 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html 96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 07:59:30 -0500 From: William S Hart Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles >The E4-OD has given some problems, but it looks like they are getting >them ironed out. The early ones just couldn't take much to break them. >Even rebuilding them with updated parts didn't solve the troubles. We >found that adjusting the TPS seemed to help. But on the last one in a >'91 F250(a 3 time loser)we found a '97 trans and swapped it out. It's >been 8 months and we're crossing our fingers. That's kind of ironic ... my sister has a 91 F250 with the E4OD, no problems with it, even ran it low when the gasket to the transfer case blew out ... the xfer case died, but the tranny is still goin strong ... over 100,000 on it, and no rebuild that we know of (we've only had it for the last 15,000 or so) .... she does have the 5.0 though, I wonder if most of the problems are related to high torque applications (ie 5.8+ and heavy towing, which she doesn't do any of ) Just my 2cents wish Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 09:28:24 -0400 From: James Oxley Subject: FTE 61-79 - F350 GVWR Hey all Ford ever make any F-350's over 10,000 lb GVWR. OX == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 10:38:24 -0400 From: "Don Haring, Jr." Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material Bas van der Veer said: > >What do you guys think is the best way to go for front disks and > >drum rear. Non-metallic, Semi-Metallic, Metallic? Anyone know > >what was original on '73-79 trucks? > brake lines or brake pads? I'd go with semi-metallic or metallic. The > former was probably stock. == Metallic or semi-metallic reported stop faster, but at the expense of the rotor and drum. In a 70s truck, this is still probably a good choice since parts are still widely available. For something that is older, say 60s vintage, many people choose to use traditional organic brake pads. These pads contain asbestos and are therefore not as friendly (be careful cleaning the dust), but they are much softer on obsolete drums. When I overhauled the brakes on my '66 Club Wagon, the rear drums were worn beyond spec and needed to be replaced. Luckily, I was able to pull drums from the ONE and ONLY old Econoline I've ever seen in the local yards here. Otherwise, I would have had to spend $$$ on new non-stock replacement drums. I'd rather spend $12 on new pads more often than have to worry about replacing drums. - -don - --- Don in Philadelphia, FCA #08142 | 61 Futura Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Deluxe Club Wagon Visit Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | and classic scooters == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 17:44:42 +0200 From: "Bill Brox" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto Here is what Tim says: >Thanks, Bill. I've been off the FTE list for a couple of months due to >general busyness and extensive travel. > >I don't have any special knowledge of how to restore steering wheels, >ut I'll check the list out. Bill - ---------- > From: Mike Pacheco > To: 61-79-list > Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto > Date: 18. juni 1999 08:05 > > I don't think its the Tim Bowman I know he lives in Burien Washington, > I'll ask him friday night. > > Mike in Burien > Also he is no longer on the list but still has plenty of Fords... > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 11:55:14 -0500 From: "John LaGrone" Subject: FTE 61-79 - auto vs manual tranny >>same suburban. A new tranny every 15K or 20K is not my idea of fun whether > it is manual or auto. WOW, did ford ever have these kind of problems? I have heard stories of the Ford overdrive autos, but the one on my 88 Towncar has 113K on it, it is original and my tranny man said it looks new inside. My bother has an 84 Marquis with over 200K and it still has the original AOD in it, and he doesn't take care of his stuff. The GM 700R4s that failed at a high rate (something on the order of 93%) were the non-electronic ones. I had an 82 Park Avenue that went about 140K on the first AOD trans and was still going strong when I traded it for the Towncar :-). - -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 11:43:27 -0500 From: "John LaGrone" Subject: FTE 61-79 - hand turning engine It might be a good idea to take the spark plugs out unless you are built like Arnold Swarzenegger. Those M-blocks are tough on the compression. :-) P.S. for Ken on no subject line. I've done it at least twice in the last two days, maybe more. I apologize to the list. It was carelessness on my part. I know better but didn't do better. - -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 13:13:00 -0400 From: "George W. Selby, III" Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Brake Calipers The steel ones are 10 bucks at my local Auto Zone and Advance. The Phenolic ones are 19. George Selby 78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4 86 Audi 4000CS Quattro IsuzuG == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: 18 Jun 1999 12:24:23 -0500 From: "Betz, Pat" Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 Dana 70 Azie....I am confused. My understanding is that a "dually" rear end, from backing plate to backing plate, is the same width as a standard rear end. The dual wheel rear end, or one ton, the backing plates are narrow to allow the outside width of the wheels to be the same as a standard rear end. As I am looking to install a dually rear end my 74 F250 Camper Special, I would appreciate any info and thanks for all the good information you have provided to myself and others. I have been following this list for about a year and find it informative, interesting and look forward each day to reading it. And Ken, keep up the good work Pat 1974 F250 Camper Special == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 12:37:00 -0600 From: james shanks Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material they do make carbon racing pads, second mmmmmmm..I think? , would you put your hand on a 3in" thick metal while some was heating the other side for 30 seconds, or would you put your hand on a 1/16 of an inch thick metal while so one was heating the other side, the answer to that question will point you down the right road. William S Hart wrote: > >I would go with the organic type, it has more stopping ability,not the the > >best pad to dissipate heat with , but not as hard on the rotors, as far as > >wear. Unless you plan to drag race from stop light to stop light, in which > >you will need semi met pads to dissipate the heat away from the rotor, I > >don't think you'll need them, you see the older rotors are thicker and can > >stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go organic and leave the > >metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older models only". > > Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes it HARDER to dissipate > heat, not easier ... glass is a good example of this, if you take a very > cold glass and dump hot/warm water into it, the thicker glasses will crack, > possibly shatter. The thinner ones will look normal, and not sustain any > cracking. Its much easier to dissipate heat when there's less volume to do > it through.... > > I think the choice in pads has a lot to do with your driving style ... on > my stang there is no way I'm gonna run organic pads, I race with it and > would like to keep the pads there as long as possible ... granted its a lot > new, but the same applies to our old Cougar and such, if I'm racin it, I > don't want to be wonderin how much brake I just lost by tryin to take the > last corner a bit faster ... > > Hmmm....sounds like I need to do some more research in this area as my > assumptions that I've made to this point don't seem to be holding up very > well ... > > Just my 2cents > > wish > > Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html > '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html > '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 12:42:39 -0600 From: james shanks Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material by the way they also make a pads out of kevlar, yes the same stuff in body armor. William S Hart wrote: > >I would go with the organic type, it has more stopping ability,not the the > >best pad to dissipate heat with , but not as hard on the rotors, as far as > >wear. Unless you plan to drag race from stop light to stop light, in which > >you will need semi met pads to dissipate the heat away from the rotor, I > >don't think you'll need them, you see the older rotors are thicker and can > >stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go organic and leave the > >metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older models only". > > Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes it HARDER to dissipate > heat, not easier ... glass is a good example of this, if you take a very > cold glass and dump hot/warm water into it, the thicker glasses will crack, > possibly shatter. The thinner ones will look normal, and not sustain any > cracking. Its much easier to dissipate heat when there's less volume to do > it through.... > > I think the choice in pads has a lot to do with your driving style ... on > my stang there is no way I'm gonna run organic pads, I race with it and > would like to keep the pads there as long as possible ... granted its a lot > new, but the same applies to our old Cougar and such, if I'm racin it, I > don't want to be wonderin how much brake I just lost by tryin to take the > last corner a bit faster ... > > Hmmm....sounds like I need to do some more research in this area as my > assumptions that I've made to this point don't seem to be holding up very > well ... > > Just my 2cents > > wish > > Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html > '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html > '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 12:48:09 -0600 From: james shanks Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles And on the other hand I own a chev with a 700R4 and its never been replaced and it's going on 150 thousand miles , yes to each his own. "William L. Ballinger" wrote: > > > else said it well, to each his own. I also must add that before my > > > enlightenment I owned at least 4 GM 700R4 overdrive autos, 3 of them in the > > > same suburban. A new tranny every 15K or 20K is not my idea of fun whether > > > it is manual or auto. > > > > WOW, did ford ever have these kind of problems? I put almost 20k miles on > > my bronco this year, and who knows how many it's already got.. > > The counter said 94k but I'm not sure this is true. It may not be the > > original transmission. > > The E4-OD has given some problems, but it looks like they are getting > them ironed out. The early ones just couldn't take much to break them. > Even rebuilding them with updated parts didn't solve the troubles. We > found that adjusting the TPS seemed to help. But on the last one in a > '91 F250(a 3 time loser)we found a '97 trans and swapped it out. It's > been 8 months and we're crossing our fingers. > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:22:07 -0500 From: Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint I'm thinking of tinting my windows. Any advice? Bryan Kirking 66 Step Side 352 FE, 4 speed Houston, Texas == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:37:44 -0500 From: "John R. Austin" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint I'm also from Texas, Granbury - close to Fort Worth. I had my 67 done last year by one of those tinting shops. It really made a difference! No experience at doing it myself, sorry. Try it, you'll like it. - ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, June 18, 1999 2:22 PM Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint > I'm thinking of tinting my windows. > Any advice? > Bryan Kirking > 66 Step Side > 352 FE, 4 speed > Houston, Texas > > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 16:27:59 -0400 From: tfreeman Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint Check you local laws. Here in NC they will give you a ticket and make you pull it off if it is to dark. I've noticed the police don't bother you as long as they can see bodies through the tint. I like the stuff, especially in places like Florida. Helps to keep the car cool. - -Ted bkirking Please respond to 61-79-list To: cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS) Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint I'm thinking of tinting my windows. Any advice? Bryan Kirking 66 Step Side 352 FE, 4 speed Houston, Texas == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 15:06:38 -0700 From: "Danger" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles > >The E4-OD has given some problems, but it looks like they are getting > >them ironed out. The early ones just couldn't take much to break them. .......... > That's kind of ironic ... my sister has a 91 F250 with the E4OD, no > problems with it, even ran it low when the gasket to the transfer case blew > out ... the xfer case died, but the tranny is still goin strong ... over > 100,000 on it, and no rebuild that we know of (we've only had it for the > last 15,000 or so) .... she does have the 5.0 though, I wonder if most of > the problems are related to high torque applications (ie 5.8+ and heavy > towing, which she doesn't do any of ) > > > Just my 2cents > > wish ........... I had a 92 F250 HD 4x4 with 460 and E4OD which I used to haul a very large camper and 19' boat (averaged about 7 MPG when fully loaded over hilly terrain and aggresive use of the gas pedal) which never had a problem with the transmission, but I bought it new and sold it at 39,000 miles. IMHO:) I thought the 460/E4OD combo was pretty sweet Danger == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:54:18 -0700 From: "Southerland, Rich" Subject: FTE 61-79 - '67 disc brake conversion Thanks for the info and the point to the tech article. I have a couple questions though. The truck (F100) has manual brakes. What booster/master cylinder do I use? Will the one from the donor '74 F100 work? The donor truck had kingpins done last year and we can take the whole spindle/I beam assembly, but will the newer I beams work? Rich '67 F100 '77 E150 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 18:34:44 EDT From: RJC988 Subject: FTE 61-79 - Computers are Us (again) Guys, Is there no one who has wired an EFI engine. I got one response (and a good one!), but plans have the best chance with many advisers. Let me hear from you. Glenn in TN Soapy the 57 F-100 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 17:55:12 CDT From: Robert Brown Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint Don't get it done by any of the chain type tint shops. Shop around and find someone who'll let you look at their work. On a pickup you can get away with darker than legal tint since you're sitting closer to the glass than in a car (you should be able to go 20% all around). DON'T EVER CLEAN YOUR GLASS WITH AMMONIA BASED CLEANERS AFTER IT HAS BEEN TINTED!! >From: >Reply-To: 61-79-list >To: 61-79-list >Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint >Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:22:07 -0500 > >I'm thinking of tinting my windows. >Any advice? >Bryan Kirking >66 Step Side >352 FE, 4 speed >Houston, Texas > > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 15:48:30 -0700 From: "Sam Weatherby" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '67 disc brake conversion I think the newer spindles will work. I was thinking it would be cool if those companies that may custom drop i-beams could make some for our older trucks, that have ends lke newer trucks. That way king pins would be no longer a problem. -srw Sam Weatherby http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://insert.com/sammy SWeatherby '70 Grabber Sportsroof Mustang '65 F100 - ----- Original Message ----- From: Southerland, Rich To: Sent: Friday, June 18, 1999 2:54 PM Subject: FTE 61-79 - '67 disc brake conversion > Thanks for the info and the point to the tech article. I have a couple > questions though. > > The truck (F100) has manual brakes. What booster/master cylinder do I use? > Will the one from the donor '74 F100 work? The donor truck had kingpins > done last year and we can take the whole spindle/I beam assembly, but will > the newer I beams work? > > Rich > '67 F100 > '77 E150 > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 18:11:38 CDT From: Robert Brown Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint As an addendum, my brother tints windows, that's where I got my information from. >From: Robert Brown >Reply-To: 61-79-list >To: 61-79-list >Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint >Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 17:55:12 CDT > >Don't get it done by any of the chain type tint shops. Shop around and find >someone who'll let you look at their work. On a pickup you can get away >with >darker than legal tint since you're sitting closer to the glass than in a >car (you should be able to go 20% all around). DON'T EVER CLEAN YOUR GLASS >WITH AMMONIA BASED CLEANERS AFTER IT HAS BEEN TINTED!! > > >>From: >>Reply-To: 61-79-list >>To: 61-79-list >>Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint >>Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:22:07 -0500 >> >>I'm thinking of tinting my windows. >>Any advice? >>Bryan Kirking >>66 Step Side >>352 FE, 4 speed >>Houston, Texas >> >> >>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > > >_______________________________________________________________ >Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 18:11:38 CDT From: Robert Brown Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint As an addendum, my brother tints windows, that's where I got my information from. >From: Robert Brown >Reply-To: 61-79-list >To: 61-79-list >Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint >Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 17:55:12 CDT > >Don't get it done by any of the chain type tint shops. Shop around and find >someone who'll let you look at their work. On a pickup you can get away >with >darker than legal tint since you're sitting closer to the glass than in a >car (you should be able to go 20% all around). DON'T EVER CLEAN YOUR GLASS >WITH AMMONIA BASED CLEANERS AFTER IT HAS BEEN TINTED!! > > >>From: >>Reply-To: 61-79-list >>To: 61-79-list >>Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint >>Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:22:07 -0500 >> >>I'm thinking of tinting my windows. >>Any advice? >>Bryan Kirking >>66 Step Side >>352 FE, 4 speed >>Houston, Texas >> >> >>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > > >_______________________________________________________________ >Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 21:14:26 EDT From: BDIJXS Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 head questions Hi Terry, Don't know anything about 460's, but I CAN recommend a Ford engine guy in Denver, the guy's name is Rob at Blue Oval Performance, (303) 762-8298. Its a small shop, but all he does is put together Ford engines....he recently put together a 427 cammer, so he knows what he's doing.....I hope to be picking up my 428 from him here pretty soon.... You might stop by and check it out. His shop is clean and well organized, thats why I went with him in the first place. He should be able to answer most of your questions.....good luck! CJ (Colorado Jeff) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:00:29 -0400 From: "Joel Minsky" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material - -----Original Message----- From: William S Hart > >>I don't think you'll need them, you see the older rotors are thicker and can >>stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go organic and leave the >>metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older models only". > > >Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes it HARDER to dissipate >heat, not easier ... glass is a good example of this, if you take a very >cold glass and dump hot/warm water into it, the thicker glasses will crack, >possibly shatter. The thinner ones will look normal, and not sustain any >cracking. Its much easier to dissipate heat when there's less volume to do >it through.... > Hmmm.. You got me thinking with this one. The rate at which heat is dissipated from the brakes, that is *removed entirely* from the system, is dependant on how quickly it is convected from the pads, rotors, etc. to the surrounding air. This is dependant mainly on the geometry of the parts (drums vs. rotors, solid or vented), the relative speed of the air and the brakes (how fast the wheels are turning), and the temperature difference of the air and the brakes. This convection from the surface to the air is the bottleneck in removing heat from the brakes. Now, when you go from 60mph to zero, all the kinetic energy of the moving truck is converted into heat energy at the surface of the pads and rotors. This heat is not immediately convected away to the surrounding air though, it is first conducted away from the rotor-pad interface to the surrounding material. Heat conducts quickly through metals especially relative to the rate at which it is convected from the surface to the air so I would guess the rotors and pads quickly reach an almost uniform temperature (as soon as you take your foot off the brake anyway). A thick rotor will be cooler than a thin one given an equal amount of energy added to it simply because it has more mass. You can think of a rotor as a heat cache. The heat created from braking is quickly conducted away from the braking surface into the rotor and pads. Then the slower process of convecting the heat to the surroundings can take place. Thicker rotor means bigger cache and lower temperature. Wish's statement that a thinner pad will dissipate heat quicker is true but probably not for the reason he was thinking. Since a greater temperature gradient means greater convection cooling rate a thinner hotter pad will dissipate heat quicker to the surroundings that a thicker cooler one. A thicker pad dissipates heat slightly slower but it maintains the braking surface at a lower temperature which is what you want. As for the example of thick or thin glass this is another interesting one. I believe this phenomena is due to the difference between plane-stress and plane-strain loading, not to any difference in heat transfer characteristic. Basically just because it's thick the glass will behave more brittle. I'd have to get a book to figure out the details. I hope any of this makes sense. I'm not always good at explaining stuff. -joel '79 F150, 351m, NP435 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:05:48 EDT From: WEDIVE247 Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint Yea I live in Florida and the 100.00 tint job on my 64 was well worth it .Only advice I have is watch the type of tint used . You don't want it to fade to purple . == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:42:24 EDT From: IanBoss69 Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - auto vs manual tranny my 92 caprice has a 700r4 in it, biggest piece of crap ever, replaced it at 68k miles, had trouble again at 8X K miles, never did shift right after it was replaced, has no power to it anymore, originally went from 0-60 in less than 10 seconds, now does something like 15-16 seconds, AAMCO work for ya, anyways thought i'd share Ian 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M ( i dont mention the ch*vy for obvious reasons) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:50:51 EDT From: IanBoss69 Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint around central ohio i've seen kids running around with 5% tint, never seen or heard about any body getting pulled over for tint around here, Ian 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M "True Blue,,,Ford Blue" == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 21:57:15 -0700 From: Mike Pacheco Subject: FTE 61-79 - Flywheel?? Looking for a flywheel for a 351C. I have a 302 in my truck and am changing it out soon, will the flywheel from my 302 work or is it balanced wrong? Does anyone know where I might purchase one? I live in the Seattle area. Oh yeah, I have a manual tranny (toploader) Mike in Burien Washington == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 22:13:48 -0700 From: Mike Pacheco Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto I just talked to Tim Bowman and it wasn't him... Mike in Burien == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 22:17:52 -0700 From: "K. Moulton" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tire sizes >my 79 F-250 is fitted with 31X9" tires on 17" 8-lug "steelies." In addition >to looking like crap they look too skinny because the truck rides so high, >i'd like to upgrade to 33x10 or 11.5 " tires with 16" wheels, problem is i >don't want to order 1000 bucks worth on tires and then have to turn around >and put a 400 dollar lift kit on it for them to fit, anybody know what size >tire will fit? Flotation sizes, i.e. 31x10.50x15 come only in 15" and 16.5". If you want a good 16" size tire for the '79, go with either a LT 265-75-16 or a LT 285-75 16. If I recall correctly, the 285's correspond roughly with the 33's in the flotation sizes, and should fit. If not, torsion bar adjustments are a possibility. Get your tire shop to do a front tire test fit before you pay anything. On a sale that big, most will happily comply. I know, I work in one! LOL Kathy == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 01:35:57 EDT From: IanBoss69 Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire sizes i checked the front brakes out, looks to me like a 17" wheel was a tight fit, no way a 16" or 16.5" would fit, sooo, anybody know if they even make aftermarket wheels in 17"(for a truck that is) and i was looking at 35" mickey thompson baja's or SS Thornbirds, I've decided to go ahead and install a 4 inch lift on it rather than buy new stock height leafsprings, thats why i've decided just to go up to 35", the front leafsprings look pretty rusted down, starting to flake metal strips off, back springs are ok but they could use replacing too, why is it we get a plan in our head, a cheap economical, easy plan, then we end up spending 3 times what we bought the truck for? anybody? oh well it'll be worth it in the end, Ian 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M True Blue,,,Ford Blue == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:07:01 -0600 From: james shanks Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material Good one Joel, pretty funny stuff he.he.he. look it's simple the whole reason for semi met pads are( and let's see if you can hold on to this bucking bronco long enough to understand this) Here go's, semi met pad's are on this earth because; In this day and age the technology for miles per gallon, on most auto's has reached it's peak, so with that said, the reason for that statement is that , the only way now of day's to get auto's ( trucks ) to get better gas mileage ( which is mandated by the government, the federal type) is to cut down on the weight of the vech, the less it weights the less gas it takes to move the vech. Ok....now one of the places they do this shaving of weight is? ( guess ) yes sir give the man a cigar, it's in the "rotors" and because of this, they had to come up with a way to take the heat from the rotors, which in older systems stayed in the rotors, hence the reason for thicker rotors in older systems, most of the heat was stored in the rotors, while using organic pads, which are made of asbestos (used to be at least) which tries to repel the heat back in to the rotors (again the reason for thicker rotors) which is the reason fire retardent cloths were made from the stuff and sprayed all over buildings so in a fire they don't catch fire. Now on to semi met pads, they are made of iorn,walnut shells, brass filings, for (one reason) and it's to take the heat from the newer thinner rotors and puts them in to the pads, keeping the heat away from the one thing you do not want to get hot in a brake system ( the brake fluid ) they are harder on rotors because they are made mostly out of metal, and when you rub metal to metal, yes you are starting to get it, they both wear out, of course the pads faster than the rotors, but non the less you get the idea (yes?) and this is the reason for semi met pads and thinner rotors, older organic pads ,with thicker rotors which after a 100 years of automotive technology they found they did not need the heat in the rotors, right next to the brake fluid? and that asbestos causes cancer, so they killed two birds with one stone. So how ever you want to look at it ,your way ,or mine in the end your selection of pads for your vech are many, you just need to figure out what the best application to use. Well I hope you understand , because I think I hurt my self explaining it.he..he..ha.ha. my qualifications are 30 years as a master tech in the biz, (now out of it for 5) jim Joel Minsky wrote: > -----Original Message----- > From: William S Hart > > > >>I don't think you'll need them, you see the older rotors are thicker and > can > >>stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go organic and leave the > >>metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older models only". > > > > > >Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes it HARDER to dissipate > >heat, not easier ... glass is a good example of this, if you take a very > >cold glass and dump hot/warm water into it, the thicker glasses will crack, > >possibly shatter. The thinner ones will look normal, and not sustain any > >cracking. Its much easier to dissipate heat when there's less volume to do > >it through.... > > > > Hmmm.. You got me thinking with this one. The rate at which heat is > dissipated from the brakes, that is *removed entirely* from the system, is > dependant on how quickly it is convected from the pads, rotors, etc. to the > surrounding air. This is dependant mainly on the geometry of the parts > (drums vs. rotors, solid or vented), the relative speed of the air and the > brakes (how fast the wheels are turning), and the temperature difference of > the air and the brakes. This convection from the surface to the air is the > bottleneck in removing heat from the brakes. > > Now, when you go from 60mph to zero, all the kinetic energy of the moving > truck is converted into heat energy at the surface of the pads and rotors. > This heat is not immediately convected away to the surrounding air though, > it is first conducted away from the rotor-pad interface to the surrounding > material. Heat conducts quickly through metals especially relative to the > rate at which it is convected from the surface to the air so I would guess > the rotors and pads quickly reach an almost uniform temperature (as soon as > you take your foot off the brake anyway). A thick rotor will be cooler than > a thin one given an equal amount of energy added to it simply because it has > more mass. > > You can think of a rotor as a heat cache. The heat created from braking is > quickly conducted away from the braking surface into the rotor and pads. > Then the slower process of convecting the heat to the surroundings can take > place. Thicker rotor means bigger cache and lower temperature. > > Wish's statement that a thinner pad will dissipate heat quicker is true but > probably not for the reason he was thinking. Since a greater temperature > gradient means greater convection cooling rate a thinner hotter pad will > dissipate heat quicker to the surroundings that a thicker cooler one. A > thicker pad dissipates heat slightly slower but it maintains the braking > surface at a lower temperature which is what you want. > > As for the example of thick or thin glass this is another interesting one. I > believe this phenomena is due to the difference between plane-stress and > plane-strain loading, not to any difference in heat transfer characteristic. > Basically just because it's thick the glass will behave more brittle. I'd > have to get a book to figure out the details. > > I hope any of this makes sense. I'm not always good at explaining stuff. > > -joel > > '79 F150, 351m, NP435 > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:19:02 -0600 From: james shanks Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - auto vs manual tranny I thought sharing was something you did if you had something of use to share? You are right they weren't of much use in a big tuna boat like the caprice, but they do very well in the chev astro vans ( not as much weight) still has as much balls as it ever has and it has a lot of miles on it , over 100k , taking a licking and keeps on ticking. Wanted to TELL you that. I don't like to share. IanBoss69 > my 92 caprice has a 700r4 in it, biggest piece of crap ever, replaced it at > 68k miles, had trouble again at 8X K miles, never did shift right after it > was replaced, has no power to it anymore, originally went from 0-60 in less > than 10 seconds, now does something like 15-16 seconds, AAMCO work for ya, > anyways thought i'd share > > Ian > 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M > ( i dont mention the ch*vy for obvious reasons) > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 01:11:05 -0700 From: "Danger" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange Behavior (vaccum leak) > I can't seem to get the > engine to run at a low idle > > Danger ......... > have you checked to see if > you have a vacuum leak somewhere ? > > wish ......... > Sounds like a big vacuum leak... > > Bill Beyer ........ > Probably has a vacuum leak > > Jason & Kathy Kendrick ................. I couldn't imagine where it would possibly leaking from, and still couldn't get a good Idle, so I took the truck to Precision Tune and figured they could deal with it for now. When I came back later, they said it had a vacuum leak... Doh! When they said they wanted $120 to fix the vacuum leak, I asked where is the leak? He said it was under the carb towards the back. I told him I couldn't afford to have them fix the leak, and thanked him as I drove away. After removing the carb and spacer I discovered my error when I used the wrong gasket under the spacer which created the leak under the PCV outlet at the rear. It cost $5 for the material I used to make the new gasket, and now the engine idles very nicely. FYI:) The mechanic said he sprayed carb cleaner (while the engine was running) around the base of the carb to locate the vacuum leak. A spray bottle with water seems to work also. It seems that when a fine mist is aimed at a vacuum leak the engine will change in idle. Danger == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:43:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Daniel DiMartino Subject: FTE 61-79 - more tranny Q's well after working overtime to get my green thing ('68 f-250 c-6) running and okay to ship back to the states from spain whitch i shipped on the 18th of june. i finally got to drive my truck prior to dropping it off .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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