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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #209
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61-79-list-digest Saturday, June 19 1999 Volume 03 : Number 209



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - batteries was hot starting problems
FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles
FTE 61-79 - F350 GVWR
FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto
FTE 61-79 - auto vs manual tranny
FTE 61-79 - hand turning engine
FTE 61-79 - RE: Brake Calipers
FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 Dana 70
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles
FTE 61-79 - window tint
Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles
FTE 61-79 - '67 disc brake conversion
FTE 61-79 - Computers are Us (again)
Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
Re: FTE 61-79 - '67 disc brake conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
FTE 61-79 - 460 head questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material
Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
Re: FTE 61-79 - auto vs manual tranny
Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
FTE 61-79 - Flywheel??
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto
FTE 61-79 - Tire sizes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire sizes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material
Re: FTE 61-79 - auto vs manual tranny
Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange Behavior (vaccum leak)
FTE 61-79 - more tranny Q's
FTE 61-79 - starter FYI

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 04:56:53 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - batteries was hot starting problems

> It is my understanding that a deep cycle battery doesn't work well in
> automotive applications. They are designed to be severely discharged then
> recharged like for a golf cart or a trolling motor. I've never tried one,
> but I have read articles along this line several years ago. The technology
> could have changed since then, but I doubt it.
>
> BTW, don't ever buy a maintanence free battery with no caps for adding
> water. There is no such thing as maintanence free unless you count install
> it then use it until it is no good. On a lead acid battery, that could be a
> short period if you don't keep the cells in acid.

I've tested quite a few batteries this past couple of weeks, and I agree
with John, the "maintenence free" batttery will die in 3/4 the time of a
normal battery. The only reason is that the water level gets low and
it shorts out.

Deep-cycles are not made to be surface charged(alternator type
charge)but require being pulled down low and then charged with a trickle
charger. There are marine starting batteries that are made for boats
with alternators, but they are more like a car battery than a
deep-cycle.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 05:06:31 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles

> > else said it well, to each his own. I also must add that before my
> > enlightenment I owned at least 4 GM 700R4 overdrive autos, 3 of them in the
> > same suburban. A new tranny every 15K or 20K is not my idea of fun whether
> > it is manual or auto.
>
> WOW, did ford ever have these kind of problems? I put almost 20k miles on
> my bronco this year, and who knows how many it's already got..
> The counter said 94k but I'm not sure this is true. It may not be the
> original transmission.

The E4-OD has given some problems, but it looks like they are getting
them ironed out. The early ones just couldn't take much to break them.
Even rebuilding them with updated parts didn't solve the troubles. We
found that adjusting the TPS seemed to help. But on the last one in a
'91 F250(a 3 time loser)we found a '97 trans and swapped it out. It's
been 8 months and we're crossing our fingers.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 07:59:30 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles

>The E4-OD has given some problems, but it looks like they are getting
>them ironed out. The early ones just couldn't take much to break them.
>Even rebuilding them with updated parts didn't solve the troubles. We
>found that adjusting the TPS seemed to help. But on the last one in a
>'91 F250(a 3 time loser)we found a '97 trans and swapped it out. It's
>been 8 months and we're crossing our fingers.

That's kind of ironic ... my sister has a 91 F250 with the E4OD, no
problems with it, even ran it low when the gasket to the transfer case blew
out ... the xfer case died, but the tranny is still goin strong ... over
100,000 on it, and no rebuild that we know of (we've only had it for the
last 15,000 or so) .... she does have the 5.0 though, I wonder if most of
the problems are related to high torque applications (ie 5.8+ and heavy
towing, which she doesn't do any of )


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 08:03:44 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material

>I would go with the organic type, it has more stopping ability,not the the
>best pad to dissipate heat with , but not as hard on the rotors, as far as
>wear. Unless you plan to drag race from stop light to stop light, in which
>you will need semi met pads to dissipate the heat away from the rotor, I
>don't think you'll need them, you see the older rotors are thicker and can
>stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go organic and leave the
>metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older models only".

Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes it HARDER to dissipate
heat, not easier ... glass is a good example of this, if you take a very
cold glass and dump hot/warm water into it, the thicker glasses will crack,
possibly shatter. The thinner ones will look normal, and not sustain any
cracking. Its much easier to dissipate heat when there's less volume to do
it through....

I think the choice in pads has a lot to do with your driving style ... on
my stang there is no way I'm gonna run organic pads, I race with it and
would like to keep the pads there as long as possible ... granted its a lot
new, but the same applies to our old Cougar and such, if I'm racin it, I
don't want to be wonderin how much brake I just lost by tryin to take the
last corner a bit faster ...

Hmmm....sounds like I need to do some more research in this area as my
assumptions that I've made to this point don't seem to be holding up very
well ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 08:05:09 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70

>Super Camper Specials (140" wheel base...NOT the 133" standard
>cab wheel base). These are the trucks with the rear wheel wells moved back
>about 7" from a "regular" 8 foot bed.

So that's what I saw!!!! I saw one of these in missouri when I was drivin
part of Route 66 a couple years ago ... it was at an RV park, they were
still usin it to move those huge 5th wheel and gooseneck trailers ... it
caught my eye because it was the opposite colors of mine, green on top,
white on the bottom ... Now I know....



Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
96 Mustang GT
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 07:59:30 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles

>The E4-OD has given some problems, but it looks like they are getting
>them ironed out. The early ones just couldn't take much to break them.
>Even rebuilding them with updated parts didn't solve the troubles. We
>found that adjusting the TPS seemed to help. But on the last one in a
>'91 F250(a 3 time loser)we found a '97 trans and swapped it out. It's
>been 8 months and we're crossing our fingers.

That's kind of ironic ... my sister has a 91 F250 with the E4OD, no
problems with it, even ran it low when the gasket to the transfer case blew
out ... the xfer case died, but the tranny is still goin strong ... over
100,000 on it, and no rebuild that we know of (we've only had it for the
last 15,000 or so) .... she does have the 5.0 though, I wonder if most of
the problems are related to high torque applications (ie 5.8+ and heavy
towing, which she doesn't do any of )


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 09:28:24 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F350 GVWR

Hey all

Ford ever make any F-350's over 10,000 lb GVWR.

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 10:38:24 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material

Bas van der Veer said:

> >What do you guys think is the best way to go for front disks and
> >drum rear. Non-metallic, Semi-Metallic, Metallic? Anyone know
> >what was original on '73-79 trucks?

> brake lines or brake pads? I'd go with semi-metallic or metallic. The
> former was probably stock.
==

Metallic or semi-metallic reported stop faster, but at the expense of the
rotor and drum. In a 70s truck, this is still probably a good choice since
parts are still widely available.

For something that is older, say 60s vintage, many people choose to use
traditional organic brake pads. These pads contain asbestos and are
therefore not as friendly (be careful cleaning the dust), but they are much
softer on obsolete drums.

When I overhauled the brakes on my '66 Club Wagon, the rear drums were worn
beyond spec and needed to be replaced. Luckily, I was able to pull drums
from the ONE and ONLY old Econoline I've ever seen in the local yards here.
Otherwise, I would have had to spend $$$ on new non-stock replacement
drums. I'd rather spend $12 on new pads more often than have to worry about
replacing drums.

- -don

- ---
Don in Philadelphia, FCA #08142 | 61 Futura
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Deluxe Club Wagon
Visit Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | and classic scooters


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 17:44:42 +0200
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto

Here is what Tim says:

>Thanks, Bill. I've been off the FTE list for a couple of months due to
>general busyness and extensive travel.
>
>I don't have any special knowledge of how to restore steering wheels,
>ut I'll check the list out.

Bill



- ----------
> From: Mike Pacheco
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto
> Date: 18. juni 1999 08:05
>
> I don't think its the Tim Bowman I know he lives in Burien Washington,
> I'll ask him friday night.
>
> Mike in Burien
> Also he is no longer on the list but still has plenty of Fords...
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 11:55:14 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - auto vs manual tranny

>>same suburban. A new tranny every 15K or 20K is not my idea of fun whether
> it is manual or auto.

WOW, did ford ever have these kind of problems?

I have heard stories of the Ford overdrive autos, but the one on my 88
Towncar has 113K on it, it is original and my tranny man said it looks new
inside. My bother has an 84 Marquis with over 200K and it still has the
original AOD in it, and he doesn't take care of his stuff.

The GM 700R4s that failed at a high rate (something on the order of 93%)
were the non-electronic ones. I had an 82 Park Avenue that went about 140K
on the first AOD trans and was still going strong when I traded it for the
Towncar :-).

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 11:43:27 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - hand turning engine

It might be a good idea to take the spark plugs out unless you are built
like Arnold Swarzenegger. Those M-blocks are tough on the compression. :-)

P.S. for Ken on no subject line. I've done it at least twice in the last two
days, maybe more. I apologize to the list. It was carelessness on my part. I
know better but didn't do better.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 13:13:00 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Brake Calipers

The steel ones are 10 bucks at my local Auto Zone and Advance. The Phenolic ones are 19.

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Audi 4000CS Quattro
IsuzuG prodigy.net

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------------------------------

Date: 18 Jun 1999 12:24:23 -0500
From: "Betz, Pat"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 Dana 70

Azie....I am confused. My understanding is that a "dually" rear end, from
backing plate to backing plate, is the same width as a standard rear end.
The dual wheel rear end, or one ton, the backing plates are narrow to allow
the outside width of the wheels to be the same as a standard rear end. As
I am looking to install a dually rear end my 74 F250 Camper Special, I would
appreciate any info and thanks for all the good information you have
provided to myself and others.

I have been following this list for about a year and find it informative,
interesting and look forward each day to reading it.

And Ken, keep up the good work

Pat

1974 F250 Camper Special
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 12:37:00 -0600
From: james shanks
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material

they do make carbon racing pads, second mmmmmmm..I think? , would you put your
hand on a 3in" thick metal while some was heating the other side for 30
seconds, or
would you put your hand on a 1/16 of an inch thick metal while so one was
heating the other side, the answer to that question will point you down the
right road.

William S Hart wrote:

> >I would go with the organic type, it has more stopping ability,not the the
> >best pad to dissipate heat with , but not as hard on the rotors, as far as
> >wear. Unless you plan to drag race from stop light to stop light, in which
> >you will need semi met pads to dissipate the heat away from the rotor, I
> >don't think you'll need them, you see the older rotors are thicker and can
> >stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go organic and leave the
> >metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older models only".
>
> Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes it HARDER to dissipate
> heat, not easier ... glass is a good example of this, if you take a very
> cold glass and dump hot/warm water into it, the thicker glasses will crack,
> possibly shatter. The thinner ones will look normal, and not sustain any
> cracking. Its much easier to dissipate heat when there's less volume to do
> it through....
>
> I think the choice in pads has a lot to do with your driving style ... on
> my stang there is no way I'm gonna run organic pads, I race with it and
> would like to keep the pads there as long as possible ... granted its a lot
> new, but the same applies to our old Cougar and such, if I'm racin it, I
> don't want to be wonderin how much brake I just lost by tryin to take the
> last corner a bit faster ...
>
> Hmmm....sounds like I need to do some more research in this area as my
> assumptions that I've made to this point don't seem to be holding up very
> well ...
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> wish
>
> Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
> '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
> '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 12:42:39 -0600
From: james shanks
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material

by the way they also make a pads out of kevlar, yes the same stuff in body
armor.

William S Hart wrote:

> >I would go with the organic type, it has more stopping ability,not the the
> >best pad to dissipate heat with , but not as hard on the rotors, as far as
> >wear. Unless you plan to drag race from stop light to stop light, in which
> >you will need semi met pads to dissipate the heat away from the rotor, I
> >don't think you'll need them, you see the older rotors are thicker and can
> >stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go organic and leave the
> >metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older models only".
>
> Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes it HARDER to dissipate
> heat, not easier ... glass is a good example of this, if you take a very
> cold glass and dump hot/warm water into it, the thicker glasses will crack,
> possibly shatter. The thinner ones will look normal, and not sustain any
> cracking. Its much easier to dissipate heat when there's less volume to do
> it through....
>
> I think the choice in pads has a lot to do with your driving style ... on
> my stang there is no way I'm gonna run organic pads, I race with it and
> would like to keep the pads there as long as possible ... granted its a lot
> new, but the same applies to our old Cougar and such, if I'm racin it, I
> don't want to be wonderin how much brake I just lost by tryin to take the
> last corner a bit faster ...
>
> Hmmm....sounds like I need to do some more research in this area as my
> assumptions that I've made to this point don't seem to be holding up very
> well ...
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> wish
>
> Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
> '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
> '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 12:48:09 -0600
From: james shanks
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles

And on the other hand I own a chev with a 700R4 and its never been replaced and
it's
going on 150 thousand miles , yes to each his own.

"William L. Ballinger" wrote:

> > > else said it well, to each his own. I also must add that before my
> > > enlightenment I owned at least 4 GM 700R4 overdrive autos, 3 of them in the
> > > same suburban. A new tranny every 15K or 20K is not my idea of fun whether
> > > it is manual or auto.
> >
> > WOW, did ford ever have these kind of problems? I put almost 20k miles on
> > my bronco this year, and who knows how many it's already got..
> > The counter said 94k but I'm not sure this is true. It may not be the
> > original transmission.
>
> The E4-OD has given some problems, but it looks like they are getting
> them ironed out. The early ones just couldn't take much to break them.
> Even rebuilding them with updated parts didn't solve the troubles. We
> found that adjusting the TPS seemed to help. But on the last one in a
> '91 F250(a 3 time loser)we found a '97 trans and swapped it out. It's
> been 8 months and we're crossing our fingers.
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:22:07 -0500
From:
Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint

I'm thinking of tinting my windows.
Any advice?
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:37:44 -0500
From: "John R. Austin"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint

I'm also from Texas, Granbury - close to Fort Worth. I had my 67 done last
year by one of those tinting shops. It really made a difference! No
experience at doing it myself, sorry. Try it, you'll like it.

- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Friday, June 18, 1999 2:22 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint


> I'm thinking of tinting my windows.
> Any advice?
> Bryan Kirking
> 66 Step Side
> 352 FE, 4 speed
> Houston, Texas
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 16:27:59 -0400
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint

Check you local laws. Here in NC they will give you a ticket and make you pull
it off if it is to dark. I've noticed the police don't bother you as long as
they can see bodies through the tint. I like the stuff, especially in places
like Florida. Helps to keep the car cool.

- -Ted





bkirking bcm.tmc.edu on 06/18/99 03:22:07 PM

Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

To:
cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint




I'm thinking of tinting my windows.
Any advice?
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 15:06:38 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Troubles

> >The E4-OD has given some problems, but it looks like they are getting
> >them ironed out. The early ones just couldn't take much to break them.
..........

> That's kind of ironic ... my sister has a 91 F250 with the E4OD, no
> problems with it, even ran it low when the gasket to the transfer case
blew
> out ... the xfer case died, but the tranny is still goin strong ... over
> 100,000 on it, and no rebuild that we know of (we've only had it for the
> last 15,000 or so) .... she does have the 5.0 though, I wonder if most of
> the problems are related to high torque applications (ie 5.8+ and heavy
> towing, which she doesn't do any of )
>
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> wish
...........

I had a 92 F250 HD 4x4 with 460 and E4OD which I used to haul a very
large camper and 19' boat (averaged about 7 MPG when fully loaded over hilly
terrain and aggresive use of the gas pedal) which never had a problem with
the transmission, but I bought it new and sold it at 39,000 miles.


IMHO:) I thought the 460/E4OD combo was pretty sweet


Danger



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:54:18 -0700
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '67 disc brake conversion

Thanks for the info and the point to the tech article. I have a couple
questions though.

The truck (F100) has manual brakes. What booster/master cylinder do I use?
Will the one from the donor '74 F100 work? The donor truck had kingpins
done last year and we can take the whole spindle/I beam assembly, but will
the newer I beams work?

Rich
'67 F100
'77 E150
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 18:34:44 EDT
From: RJC988 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Computers are Us (again)

Guys,

Is there no one who has wired an EFI engine. I got one response (and a good
one!), but plans have the best chance with many advisers. Let me hear from
you.

Glenn in TN
Soapy the 57 F-100
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 17:55:12 CDT
From: Robert Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint

Don't get it done by any of the chain type tint shops. Shop around and find
someone who'll let you look at their work. On a pickup you can get away with
darker than legal tint since you're sitting closer to the glass than in a
car (you should be able to go 20% all around). DON'T EVER CLEAN YOUR GLASS
WITH AMMONIA BASED CLEANERS AFTER IT HAS BEEN TINTED!!


>From:
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com;
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint
>Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:22:07 -0500
>
>I'm thinking of tinting my windows.
>Any advice?
>Bryan Kirking
>66 Step Side
>352 FE, 4 speed
>Houston, Texas
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 15:48:30 -0700
From: "Sam Weatherby"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '67 disc brake conversion

I think the newer spindles will work.
I was thinking it would be cool if those companies that may custom drop
i-beams could make some for our older trucks, that have ends lke newer
trucks. That way king pins would be no longer a problem.
-srw

Sam Weatherby http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://insert.com/sammy
SWeatherby UsWest.Net A-SamWe Microsoft.com
'70 Grabber Sportsroof Mustang
'65 F100

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Southerland, Rich
To:
Sent: Friday, June 18, 1999 2:54 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '67 disc brake conversion


> Thanks for the info and the point to the tech article. I have a couple
> questions though.
>
> The truck (F100) has manual brakes. What booster/master cylinder do I
use?
> Will the one from the donor '74 F100 work? The donor truck had kingpins
> done last year and we can take the whole spindle/I beam assembly, but will
> the newer I beams work?
>
> Rich
> '67 F100
> '77 E150
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 18:11:38 CDT
From: Robert Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint

As an addendum, my brother tints windows, that's where I got my information
from.


>From: Robert Brown
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
>Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 17:55:12 CDT
>
>Don't get it done by any of the chain type tint shops. Shop around and find
>someone who'll let you look at their work. On a pickup you can get away
>with
>darker than legal tint since you're sitting closer to the glass than in a
>car (you should be able to go 20% all around). DON'T EVER CLEAN YOUR GLASS
>WITH AMMONIA BASED CLEANERS AFTER IT HAS BEEN TINTED!!
>
>
>>From:
>>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com;
>>Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint
>>Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:22:07 -0500
>>
>>I'm thinking of tinting my windows.
>>Any advice?
>>Bryan Kirking
>>66 Step Side
>>352 FE, 4 speed
>>Houston, Texas
>>
>>
>>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 18:11:38 CDT
From: Robert Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint

As an addendum, my brother tints windows, that's where I got my information
from.


>From: Robert Brown
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint
>Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 17:55:12 CDT
>
>Don't get it done by any of the chain type tint shops. Shop around and find
>someone who'll let you look at their work. On a pickup you can get away
>with
>darker than legal tint since you're sitting closer to the glass than in a
>car (you should be able to go 20% all around). DON'T EVER CLEAN YOUR GLASS
>WITH AMMONIA BASED CLEANERS AFTER IT HAS BEEN TINTED!!
>
>
>>From:
>>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com;
>>Subject: FTE 61-79 - window tint
>>Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:22:07 -0500
>>
>>I'm thinking of tinting my windows.
>>Any advice?
>>Bryan Kirking
>>66 Step Side
>>352 FE, 4 speed
>>Houston, Texas
>>
>>
>>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 21:14:26 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 head questions

Hi Terry,

Don't know anything about 460's, but I CAN recommend a Ford engine guy in
Denver, the guy's name is Rob at Blue Oval Performance, (303) 762-8298. Its a
small shop, but all he does is put together Ford engines....he recently put
together a 427 cammer, so he knows what he's doing.....I hope to be picking
up my 428 from him here pretty soon....

You might stop by and check it out. His shop is clean and well organized,
thats why I went with him in the first place. He should be able to answer
most of your questions.....good luck!

CJ (Colorado Jeff)
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:00:29 -0400
From: "Joel Minsky"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material

- -----Original Message-----
From: William S Hart
>
>>I don't think you'll need them, you see the older rotors are thicker and
can
>>stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go organic and leave the
>>metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older models only".
>
>
>Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes it HARDER to dissipate
>heat, not easier ... glass is a good example of this, if you take a very
>cold glass and dump hot/warm water into it, the thicker glasses will crack,
>possibly shatter. The thinner ones will look normal, and not sustain any
>cracking. Its much easier to dissipate heat when there's less volume to do
>it through....
>


Hmmm.. You got me thinking with this one. The rate at which heat is
dissipated from the brakes, that is *removed entirely* from the system, is
dependant on how quickly it is convected from the pads, rotors, etc. to the
surrounding air. This is dependant mainly on the geometry of the parts
(drums vs. rotors, solid or vented), the relative speed of the air and the
brakes (how fast the wheels are turning), and the temperature difference of
the air and the brakes. This convection from the surface to the air is the
bottleneck in removing heat from the brakes.

Now, when you go from 60mph to zero, all the kinetic energy of the moving
truck is converted into heat energy at the surface of the pads and rotors.
This heat is not immediately convected away to the surrounding air though,
it is first conducted away from the rotor-pad interface to the surrounding
material. Heat conducts quickly through metals especially relative to the
rate at which it is convected from the surface to the air so I would guess
the rotors and pads quickly reach an almost uniform temperature (as soon as
you take your foot off the brake anyway). A thick rotor will be cooler than
a thin one given an equal amount of energy added to it simply because it has
more mass.

You can think of a rotor as a heat cache. The heat created from braking is
quickly conducted away from the braking surface into the rotor and pads.
Then the slower process of convecting the heat to the surroundings can take
place. Thicker rotor means bigger cache and lower temperature.

Wish's statement that a thinner pad will dissipate heat quicker is true but
probably not for the reason he was thinking. Since a greater temperature
gradient means greater convection cooling rate a thinner hotter pad will
dissipate heat quicker to the surroundings that a thicker cooler one. A
thicker pad dissipates heat slightly slower but it maintains the braking
surface at a lower temperature which is what you want.

As for the example of thick or thin glass this is another interesting one. I
believe this phenomena is due to the difference between plane-stress and
plane-strain loading, not to any difference in heat transfer characteristic.
Basically just because it's thick the glass will behave more brittle. I'd
have to get a book to figure out the details.

I hope any of this makes sense. I'm not always good at explaining stuff.

-joel

'79 F150, 351m, NP435




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Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:05:48 EDT
From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint

Yea I live in Florida and the 100.00 tint job on my 64 was well worth it
.Only advice I have is watch the type of tint used . You don't want it to
fade to purple .
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:42:24 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - auto vs manual tranny

my 92 caprice has a 700r4 in it, biggest piece of crap ever, replaced it at
68k miles, had trouble again at 8X K miles, never did shift right after it
was replaced, has no power to it anymore, originally went from 0-60 in less
than 10 seconds, now does something like 15-16 seconds, AAMCO work for ya,
anyways thought i'd share

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
( i dont mention the ch*vy for obvious reasons)
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:50:51 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - window tint

around central ohio i've seen kids running around with 5% tint, never seen or
heard about any body getting pulled over for tint around here,

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M

"True Blue,,,Ford Blue"
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 21:57:15 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Flywheel??

Looking for a flywheel for a 351C. I have a 302 in my truck and am
changing it out soon, will the flywheel from my 302 work or is it
balanced wrong?
Does anyone know where I might purchase one? I live in the Seattle
area.
Oh yeah, I have a manual tranny (toploader)

Mike in Burien Washington

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 22:13:48 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto

I just talked to Tim Bowman and it wasn't him...

Mike in Burien

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 22:17:52 -0700
From: "K. Moulton"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tire sizes

>my 79 F-250 is fitted with 31X9" tires on 17" 8-lug "steelies." In
addition
>to looking like crap they look too skinny because the truck rides so
high,
>i'd like to upgrade to 33x10 or 11.5 " tires with 16" wheels, problem
is i
>don't want to order 1000 bucks worth on tires and then have to turn
around
>and put a 400 dollar lift kit on it for them to fit, anybody know what
size
>tire will fit?

Flotation sizes, i.e. 31x10.50x15 come only in 15" and 16.5". If you
want a good 16" size tire for the '79, go with either a LT 265-75-16 or
a LT 285-75 16. If I recall correctly, the 285's correspond roughly
with the 33's in the flotation sizes, and should fit. If not, torsion
bar adjustments are a possibility. Get your tire shop to do a front
tire test fit before you pay anything. On a sale that big, most will
happily comply. I know, I work in one! LOL

Kathy

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Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 01:35:57 EDT
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tire sizes

i checked the front brakes out, looks to me like a 17" wheel was a tight
fit, no way a 16" or 16.5" would fit, sooo, anybody know if they even make
aftermarket wheels in 17"(for a truck that is) and i was looking at 35"
mickey thompson baja's or SS Thornbirds, I've decided to go ahead and install
a 4 inch lift on it rather than buy new stock height leafsprings, thats why
i've decided just to go up to 35", the front leafsprings look pretty rusted
down, starting to flake metal strips off, back springs are ok but they could
use replacing too, why is it we get a plan in our head, a cheap economical,
easy plan, then we end up spending 3 times what we bought the truck for?
anybody? oh well it'll be worth it in the end,

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M

True Blue,,,Ford Blue
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:07:01 -0600
From: james shanks
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material

Good one Joel, pretty funny stuff he.he.he. look it's simple the whole reason
for semi met
pads are( and let's see if you can hold on to this bucking bronco long enough to
understand this) Here go's, semi met pad's are on this earth because; In this
day and age
the technology for miles per gallon, on most auto's has reached it's peak, so
with that said,
the reason for that statement is that , the only way now of day's to get auto's
( trucks ) to get better gas mileage ( which is mandated by the government, the
federal type) is to cut
down on the weight of the vech, the less it weights the less gas it takes to
move the vech.
Ok....now one of the places they do this shaving of weight is? ( guess ) yes sir
give the man a cigar, it's in the "rotors" and because of this, they had to come
up with a way to take the heat from the rotors, which in older systems stayed in
the rotors, hence the reason for thicker rotors in older systems, most of the
heat was stored in the rotors, while
using organic pads, which are made of asbestos (used to be at least) which tries
to repel the heat back in to the rotors (again the reason for thicker rotors)
which is the reason
fire retardent cloths were made from the stuff and sprayed all over buildings so
in a fire
they don't catch fire.
Now on to semi met pads, they are made of iorn,walnut shells, brass filings, for
(one reason) and it's to take the heat from the newer thinner rotors and puts
them in to the
pads, keeping the heat away from the one thing you do not want to get hot in a
brake system ( the brake fluid ) they are harder on rotors because they are made
mostly out of
metal, and when you rub metal to metal, yes you are starting to get it, they
both wear out,
of course the pads faster than the rotors, but non the less you get the idea
(yes?) and this
is the reason for semi met pads and thinner rotors, older organic pads ,with
thicker rotors
which after a 100 years of automotive technology they found they did not need
the heat in the rotors, right next to the brake fluid? and that asbestos causes
cancer, so they killed two birds with one stone. So how ever you want to look at
it ,your way ,or mine in the end
your selection of pads for your vech are many, you just need to figure out what
the best
application to use. Well I hope you understand , because I think I hurt my self
explaining it.he..he..ha.ha.
my qualifications are 30 years as a master tech in the biz, (now out of it for
5) jim

Joel Minsky wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: William S Hart
> >
> >>I don't think you'll need them, you see the older rotors are thicker and
> can
> >>stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go organic and leave the
> >>metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older models only".
> >
> >
> >Hmmm...I'm not sure I agree here ... thicker makes it HARDER to dissipate
> >heat, not easier ... glass is a good example of this, if you take a very
> >cold glass and dump hot/warm water into it, the thicker glasses will crack,
> >possibly shatter. The thinner ones will look normal, and not sustain any
> >cracking. Its much easier to dissipate heat when there's less volume to do
> >it through....
> >
>
> Hmmm.. You got me thinking with this one. The rate at which heat is
> dissipated from the brakes, that is *removed entirely* from the system, is
> dependant on how quickly it is convected from the pads, rotors, etc. to the
> surrounding air. This is dependant mainly on the geometry of the parts
> (drums vs. rotors, solid or vented), the relative speed of the air and the
> brakes (how fast the wheels are turning), and the temperature difference of
> the air and the brakes. This convection from the surface to the air is the
> bottleneck in removing heat from the brakes.
>
> Now, when you go from 60mph to zero, all the kinetic energy of the moving
> truck is converted into heat energy at the surface of the pads and rotors.
> This heat is not immediately convected away to the surrounding air though,
> it is first conducted away from the rotor-pad interface to the surrounding
> material. Heat conducts quickly through metals especially relative to the
> rate at which it is convected from the surface to the air so I would guess
> the rotors and pads quickly reach an almost uniform temperature (as soon as
> you take your foot off the brake anyway). A thick rotor will be cooler than
> a thin one given an equal amount of energy added to it simply because it has
> more mass.
>
> You can think of a rotor as a heat cache. The heat created from braking is
> quickly conducted away from the braking surface into the rotor and pads.
> Then the slower process of convecting the heat to the surroundings can take
> place. Thicker rotor means bigger cache and lower temperature.
>
> Wish's statement that a thinner pad will dissipate heat quicker is true but
> probably not for the reason he was thinking. Since a greater temperature
> gradient means greater convection cooling rate a thinner hotter pad will
> dissipate heat quicker to the surroundings that a thicker cooler one. A
> thicker pad dissipates heat slightly slower but it maintains the braking
> surface at a lower temperature which is what you want.
>
> As for the example of thick or thin glass this is another interesting one. I
> believe this phenomena is due to the difference between plane-stress and
> plane-strain loading, not to any difference in heat transfer characteristic.
> Basically just because it's thick the glass will behave more brittle. I'd
> have to get a book to figure out the details.
>
> I hope any of this makes sense. I'm not always good at explaining stuff.
>
> -joel
>
> '79 F150, 351m, NP435
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:19:02 -0600
From: james shanks
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - auto vs manual tranny

I thought sharing was something you did if you had something of use to share?
You are right
they weren't of much use in a big tuna boat like the caprice, but they do very
well in the
chev astro vans ( not as much weight) still has as much balls as it ever has
and it has a lot of miles on it , over 100k , taking a licking and keeps on
ticking. Wanted to TELL you that. I don't like to share.

IanBoss69 aol.com wrote:

> my 92 caprice has a 700r4 in it, biggest piece of crap ever, replaced it at
> 68k miles, had trouble again at 8X K miles, never did shift right after it
> was replaced, has no power to it anymore, originally went from 0-60 in less
> than 10 seconds, now does something like 15-16 seconds, AAMCO work for ya,
> anyways thought i'd share
>
> Ian
> 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
> ( i dont mention the ch*vy for obvious reasons)
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 01:11:05 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange Behavior (vaccum leak)

> I can't seem to get the
> engine to run at a low idle
>
> Danger
.........

> have you checked to see if
> you have a vacuum leak somewhere ?
>
> wish
.........

> Sounds like a big vacuum leak...
>
> Bill Beyer
........

> Probably has a vacuum leak
>
> Jason & Kathy Kendrick
.................

I couldn't imagine where it would possibly leaking from, and still
couldn't get a good Idle, so I took the truck to Precision Tune and figured
they could deal with it for now. When I came back later, they said it had a
vacuum leak... Doh! When they said they wanted $120 to fix the vacuum leak,
I asked where is the leak? He said it was under the carb towards the back. I
told him I couldn't afford to have them fix the leak, and thanked him as I
drove away. After removing the carb and spacer I discovered my error when I
used the wrong gasket under the spacer which created the leak under the PCV
outlet at the rear. It cost $5 for the material I used to make the new
gasket, and now the engine idles very nicely.

FYI:) The mechanic said he sprayed carb cleaner (while the engine was
running) around the base of the carb to locate the vacuum leak. A spray
bottle with water seems to work also. It seems that when a fine mist is
aimed at a vacuum leak the engine will change in idle.

Danger




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Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 00:43:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Daniel DiMartino
Subject: FTE 61-79 - more tranny Q's

well after working overtime to get my green thing ('68
f-250 c-6) running and okay to ship back to the states
from spain whitch i shipped on the 18th of june. i
finally got to drive my truck prior to dropping it off
....


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