From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #208
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61-79-list-digest Friday, June 18 1999 Volume 03 : Number 208



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - I hate "Cats" too !
Re: FTE 61-79 - Shifter linkage problem, 1970 F100 3 speed
FTE 61-79 - Re: Power disk brake conversion
FTE 61-79 - Hand turning engine
FTE 61-79 - Head swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - A couple Questions
FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto
Re: FTE 61-79 - Head swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - A couple questions?
RE: FTE 61-79 - 1973 F-250 filler neck
Re: FTE 61-79 - Head swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 F100 4x4
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto
Re: FTE 61-79 - Head swap
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Include a subject line
FTE 61-79 - C L U N K
FTE 61-79 - manual vs. auto tranny
FTE 61-79 -
FTE 61-79 - Dana 70
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes and wheel cylinders.
FTE 61-79 - batteries was hot starting problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - problems with new master cylinder
Re: FTE 61-79 - rear disc brake kits
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material
Re: FTE 61-79 - More hot starting but leaky thermostat housing fixed itself
FTE 61-79 - dana axles
FTE 61-79 - leaded gasoline
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 70
Re: FTE 61-79 - Head swap
FTE 61-79 - wipers not parking
Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 F100 4x4
Re: FTE 61-79 - Power disk brake conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - Apology to Bas van der Veer / Dyno testing
Re: FTE 61-79 - manual vs. auto tranny
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - dana axles
FTE 61-79 - need new throttle cable for modified 300-6
Re: FTE 61-79 - need new throttle cable for modified 300-6
FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto
FTE 61-79 - Finally, 460 brackets!
FTE 61-79 - Overdrive Kickdown switch
Re: FTE 61-79 - no oil?
FTE 61-79 - 17 MPG 390?
FTE 61-79 - 460 head questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - 17 MPG 390?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material
FTE 61-79 - Back on List
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes and wheel cylinders.
Re: FTE 61-79 - 17 MPG 390?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 head questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - 17 MPG 390?

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 18:10:59 +0800
From: "David and Cherie"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - I hate "Cats" too !

In Australia we have a smaller filler nozzle for unleaded than leaded so you
can put unleaded into leaded cars but not the other way around.
Dave
Australia.


>
>I wouldn't know where to get leaded fuel though.. my engine does not have a
>cat either. Hmm, I should check whether it says unleaded fuel on the
>decal.. it is a '78 so I always assumed it was unleaded.


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 07:14:26 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Shifter linkage problem, 1970 F100 3 speed

In a message dated 6/17/99 1:28:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Spike188 aol.com
writes:

> But the real problem is that the shift tube is not connected at
> the bottom. It just spins freely and I can pull it all the way out! How
do
>
> I connect this shift tube to the linkage at the bottom?
Rob:
Assuming your tube is not damaged and missing the spot-welded
parts---Check the parts at the bottom of your column under the hood which
connnect to the shift linkages. The tube is supposed to slip into these.
They are keyed so that when you move the shifter to put the tranny into
either reverse or first the lower linkage lever is contacted and moves up or
down. When you move the shifter to put the tranny into either second or
third then the upper linkage lever is contacted and moves up or down. I hope
this helps.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 06:30:48 -0500
From: "James Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Power disk brake conversion

I did the conversion on my '69 and used the booster and rods from a 75. The
link from the pedal on the '75 was shorter than the original pushrod from
the '69 and caused the pedal to sit too low. I fabricated a new one from
some 1/4-in thick bar stock that was about 1-in longer and it works fine.
The fabrication was simple, I merely cut, ground and drilled to match the
shape and offset of the '75 link, but with the extra length to match the
'69. The only kink I had was that I did not have a drill bit as large as the
hole at the pedal end. The original piece used a plastic bushing inside the
hole. Instead I used a slightly smaller hole, with a bronze bushing from the
hardware store with a smaller than original i.d.. I matched this up with a
shoulder bolt that fit the pedal, but worked with the i.d. of the bronze
bushing. It's been about 9 mos. since the conversion and all is fine.

Oh, yes, I am still alive and well, just into the adaptation to a new job so
have not had the time to really keep up with the list or say much.

Jim E.



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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 08:51:20 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hand turning engine

Brian writes: >>So how do I turn my 351M over to find those timing marks.
Can't I put a
wrench on the crank somewhere?

There is a large bolt head in the center of the front pulley. I'm not sure of
the size on the 351M/400, but on FE's it is a 15/16". Use a 1/2" pull handle
and socket and you may or may not have to have a short extension to get enough
length to clear the pulley. Depends on how many accessorys the pulley is
designed to pull which determines the depth of this pulley.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 08:58:40 EDT
From: Pyrate951 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Head swap

I am getting ready to swap out the heads on my 390. Any tips suggestion or
things to look out for? This will be my first time doing this.

Thank
Greg
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 08:05:58 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A couple Questions

>Speaking of paint, i have decided on the old 70 boss 429 blue, but i cant
>remember the name, aca?????? blue, something like that.

There is Academy Blue from the earlier years, but the 70 Boss's were only
available in Grabber colors, and a few select others (red and white I
think) ... I think Grabber blue is the color you're thinking of in this
case... there's also Acupolco (sp?) Blue which is a very cool color, but I
don't think it was available on the Boss for 70 ... it was on the standard
line though ...

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/zagato/120/Boss3.jpg

The picture's not very good, but its grabber blue ... I"ll see if I can
find another...

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/zagato/120/Bos302b.jpg

This is Acupolco blue in direct sunlight :

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/shelbygt/1969gt.JPG
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/shelbygt/Dayt69ma.JPG

Hope that helps you out, I'm not associated with the site, he just had good
pics that I found quickly.

I also read
>somewhere about a company who makes graphics that were offered on production
>specials, such as the black cowl and side graphics on the boss 302, or the
>"billboards" on the rear quarters of the old 'c*das, but i can't find the
>magazine it was in. any chance anybody has referance to this company or has
>used their products?
>

Hmmm...you might pull up Hemmings motor news ... otherwise there are lots
of mustang rags out there, one's bound to have an ad for the guy you
remember, if not, it'll at least have others with the same stuff ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 09:08:23 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto

Someone writes: (and yes I forgot who already) >> There was an article about
2 years ago in Custom Classic Trucks on how to
>restore a Ford steering wheel. It gave blow by blow instructions and
>pictures. It also gave the part numbers from the manufacturer of the the
>materials.

There was a guy at the PF truck show last year that had done a resto on the
steering wheel of a '67 F100(I believe). I think his name was Bowman. Can't
remember the 1st name.(Tim maybe) From somewhere in Georgia. He had done an
excellent job, but I have no knowledge whatsoever just what and how he did it.
It looked lika a brand new steering wheel - that I do know. There has to be
someone on this list besides me that remembers him and perhaps the steps he took
to resto his steering wheel.

Come on guys/gals. Give us the scoop. Is this Bowman guy still on the list???
Maybe a Tech article for the archives!!!

Azie


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 08:15:30 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Head swap

>I am getting ready to swap out the heads on my 390. Any tips suggestion or
>things to look out for? This will be my first time doing this.
>
Use an engine hoist or a couple big friends when moving the intake
manifold. Its a piece of cast iron that weighs about 65 lbs, doesn't sound
bad until you look at the angle you have to lift at ... other than that,
watch the MC on the driver's side and you should be fine ... oh yeah, the
p/s pump (if you have one) has a bolt that goes into the driver's side head
.... feel free to ask away as you get into things ...

Oh yeah, mark the distributor's location when you pull it out! Also a 390
is kind of unique in that you need to remove the rocker arms and pushrods
BEFORE you pull the intake manifold, otherwise you'll bend a few pushrods
since they run through it... take your time, and go slow ... don't
overtorque the bolts either, just go with what they list in the book ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 08:16:59 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A couple questions?

At 01:57 AM 6/17/99 , you wrote:
>So can u please tell me what
> kind of information should i need to get the right stall converter so
>it works right.
>
>You'll need to know the engine displacement, compression ratio, cam
>specs, vehicle weight, gear ratio of the rear axle, and how you plan to
>drive and use the vehicle.

If the motor is just out of the machine shop the machinist can probably
give you a good idea how the motor is built up ... if not, grab that pile
of receipts and start runnin part numbers to figure out what pistons are in
there and all that good stuff ...

What year motor did you have rebuilt ? Did they rebuild it to stock specs
with a bigger cam, or how was it done ?


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 08:17:52 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 1973 F-250 filler neck

>Thanks to all who replied. I believe I will attempt to find a '75 - '76
>F-100 neck, per Rich's suggestion. I have checked out the neck repair kits,
>and find them too crummy. If I have to, I'll resort to the dealer, once I
>verify the year/model I need.
>

Remember to check front or rear for the vent ... good luck! Have you
checked JC Whitney to see if theirs have the unleaded piece in them ?


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 08:15:29 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Head swap

Pyrate951 aol.com wrote:
>
> I am getting ready to swap out the heads on my 390. Any tips suggestion or
> things to look out for? This will be my first time doing this.
>
> Thank
> Greg

Get the help of a good freind to help with the intake-it's HEAVY!!
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 08:20:53 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 F100 4x4

>Anyone in the Great Lakes (NE Illinois) area know where I can find some
>decent (and inexpensive) rear leaf springs for my 66 F100 4x4? They are 2
>1/4 inches wide and have 9 leafs, although the previous owner may have added
>the last few. Thanks guys!

On the other side of IL and just across the river from you is a place
called Davenport Spring, if they can't get them for you, they'll make them.
Last time I checked they were pretty competitive with their pricing too
(front coils was what I called about) ....

1-800-292-0088

They're right next to a good sized Ford dealer too, he's got a heck of a
collection, so if you end up driving there (they will ship too I think) be
sure and walk up the street to Dahl Ford, he's usually got something
interesting in the show room ... that's where we got our 2200 mile Torino :)


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 09:20:11 -0400
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto

I believe he did it with a kit from Eastwood. I bought the kit to do mine. You
get the PC-7 epoxy and a detailed book (with lots of pictures) on how to do it.
The guy that wrote the book also makes paint recommendations.

- -Ted




am14 chrysler.com on 06/17/99 09:08:23 AM

Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

To: 61-79-list Ford-trucks.com
cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto




Someone writes: (and yes I forgot who already) >> There was an article about
2 years ago in Custom Classic Trucks on how to
>restore a Ford steering wheel. It gave blow by blow instructions and
>pictures. It also gave the part numbers from the manufacturer of the the
>materials.

There was a guy at the PF truck show last year that had done a resto on the
steering wheel of a '67 F100(I believe). I think his name was Bowman. Can't
remember the 1st name.(Tim maybe) From somewhere in Georgia. He had done an
excellent job, but I have no knowledge whatsoever just what and how he did it.
It looked lika a brand new steering wheel - that I do know. There has to be
someone on this list besides me that remembers him and perhaps the steps he took
to resto his steering wheel.

Come on guys/gals. Give us the scoop. Is this Bowman guy still on the list???
Maybe a Tech article for the archives!!!

Azie


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 09:35:31 EDT
From: Pyrate951 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Head swap

Any help at all is welcomed. There is on plus I have an aluminum intake
manifold
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 09:44:45 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Include a subject line

Its become fairly common lately for people to
post messages without a subject line. This
makes it very difficult to follow a thread.
No filtering will be imposed, I'm simply
requesting that you include a subject
when you post a message.

Thanks,
Ken Payne
Admin
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 10:11:12 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C L U N K

Bob writes: >>.Also the transmission in
my 72 makes one heck of a "clunk" when shifting into reverse

"Chock" your vehicle so it won't roll. Put the tranny in neutral. Crawl under
it and twist the driveshaft back and forth. If you get several degrees of
rotation at the rearend, you have just spotted your "Clunk". If it doesn't
rotate very much, then try to move it up/down or side/side at each U joint and
see if you have any substantial amount of movement. If so, then it is your U
joint, but my personal experience says it is the rearend. Probably won't last
but say 200 to 300 thousands more miles. Seriously, if it isn't making any
funny noises (growls/squeaks/whines/roars), then I would try to ignore the
"clunk". Most old trucks that have excessive miles on them have to some degree
this "clunk".
You might also want to pay attention to your trucks idle speed. The higher rpms
the truck idles, the more noticeable this "clunk" will be.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 09:59:41 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - manual vs. auto tranny

>>and can remove and disassemble the
trans in about an hour and a half.

Well Jeff let's examine this statement. My C6 has been in my truck for 20
years. I can't take it apart in an hour and a half, but on the other hand I
never have needed too. I assume, maybe in error, that you have had plenty of
opportunity to take it out and apart. Personally, I would rather have a
tranny that stays in the truck functional for a long time. I personally
prefer an auto, but I can see where someone would prefer a manual. Someone
else said it well, to each his own. I also must add that before my
enlightenment I owned at least 4 GM 700R4 overdrive autos, 3 of them in the
same suburban. A new tranny every 15K or 20K is not my idea of fun whether
it is manual or auto.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 10:05:08 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 -

>>cleanup, they probably want to introduce the 2000 models ASAP. '99 models
are going to be relatively rare :)

I think Buick is already advertising the 2000 LeSabre on TV. You are right.
The 2000 model year is gonig to be important advertising wise.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 11:10:39 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dana 70

Don writes: >>I thought that F350=1ton=dana 70

The single rear wheel F350 S T A N D A R D rear was the Dana 60 (same as the
F250) in most applications. The dual rear wheel cab/chassis F350 came with the
Dana 70. I have one of each. (In vehicles of course.)

By the way "duallie or dulley" is not a proper term for all trucks with dual
rear wheels. The "duallie or dulley"is applied to the pickup type truck with
the regular pickup bed but has dual rear wheels and flared fender coverings over
them. Other trucks with dual rear wheels are simply refered to as dual rear
wheels. The rearend on a true duallie is the same width as the E350 vans. The
rearend on the dual rear wheel F350 is the same width (backing plate to backing
plate) as the single rear wheel, which is approx 3" shorter side to side.

Confused anyone???

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 07:55:51 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes and wheel cylinders.

> Anyway, I discovered a broken bleed screw and called to find the price of
>a new caliper (rebuilt actually) only 10 bucks, and the master cylinder,

Be careful with cheap calipers. I once replaced one of mine (left front)
with a cheapo rebuilt one and after that my truck was pulling to the right.
Those plastic pistons are just no good. They are also the ones that can get
stuck and drag.

Bas.
78 bronco/351M


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 10:10:57 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - batteries was hot starting problems

>>So what about these optima batteries, 1000CCA deep cycle? Sounds good. A
friend of mine used some for his robot in the robot wars. He had two
starter motors to drive it, they would draw up to 1000 amps (he measured),
the thing was burning rubber, whoa!

Bas,
It is my understanding that a deep cycle battery doesn't work well in
automotive applications. They are designed to be severely discharged then
recharged like for a golf cart or a trolling motor. I've never tried one,
but I have read articles along this line several years ago. The technology
could have changed since then, but I doubt it.

BTW, don't ever buy a maintanence free battery with no caps for adding
water. There is no such thing as maintanence free unless you count install
it then use it until it is no good. On a lead acid battery, that could be a
short period if you don't keep the cells in acid.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 07:55:51 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - problems with new master cylinder

>>>What are the symptoms of a broken proportional valve?
>one end and allowed the fluid from the rear brake system to empty into the
>front brake system. The rears always needed fluid and the fronts were always

That's interesting.. well I was not too happy about my brakes and
considered the possibility it was broken. But no, it seems fine after all.
In the end it was just a combination of things being old and worn out.
Especially the rear brake adjusters were worn out to the point that,
although working, they were always "running behind" on the adjustment.

Bas.
78 bronco/351M

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 07:55:51 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - rear disc brake kits

>full floating. The way they do it is bolting on a bearing support similar
>in construction to the front yoke assembly on the DANA 44 4wd front axel.
>Then they use the stock front hub on the rear. with a splined axel shaft and

So then you can unlock your rear wheels if you want :) .. may be handy in
some cases but wouldn't it introduce a weak link? I know many people who
busted hubs.

Bas
78 bronco/351M

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 07:55:51 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material

>What do you guys think is the best way to go for front disks and
>drum rear. Non-metallic, Semi-Metallic, Metallic? Anyone know
>what was original on '73-79 trucks?

brake lines or brake pads? I'd go with semi-metallic or metallic. The
former was probably stock.



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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 07:55:51 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - More hot starting but leaky thermostat housing fixed itself

>>because sometimes I do smell gas and sometimes it behaves as though its
mildly
>>flooded.
>>Also I found out something else...
>>*The truck will restart fine hot as long as I restart it before roughly 8
>>seconds after turning it off*
>>After cooling about 5 minutes, it will restart after several seconds of
>>*normal*
>>cranking. After about ten minutes it will start right up.

Try leaving the ignition switch off and jumping the starter solenoid
(disconnect the little red wire and hook up 12V). The engine should start
cranking slow at a slow but steady rate, maybe one revolution per second.

>fine just after its shut off (does it turn easy or hard ?), but then it
>won't turn over even, that's likely an electrical component getting some
>extra heat.
>
>Could be any number of things ... lets look at the heat as you are driving
>... the radiator will have a lot coming out of it, as the coolant passes
>through and keeps the motor from collecting heat ... the air in the engine
...
>certain period of time after the truck has been shut off it appears to get
>warmer (its actually just equalizing temps all the way through it) it
>sounds like this additional heat is enough to kill your starter or
>solenoid, or something ...

My bronco seems to be able to stand a lot of heat when it's running (more
than I can ;-)), but if you turn it off it tends to boil a little bit.
Especially if it is hot outside and I go from the freeway at 70mph to a
rest area and turn it off right away. But if I let it idle for a minute it
is fine.

Maybe you can try that, let it idle for a minute before turning it off and
see what happens.

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 07:55:51 -0700
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dana axles

What's the heaviest front/rear axles dana makes? dana 80?

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 10:15:23 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - leaded gasoline

>>Hmm, I should check whether it says unleaded fuel on the
decal.. it is a '78 so I always assumed it was unleaded.

Every gasoline powered vehicle sold in the US after January 1, 1971, had to
be able to burn low lead gosoline. After January 1, 1975, they had to be
able to burn no lead. This is federal law and included all gasoline engines
because they knew that the oil companies were not going to be able to market
leaded fuel. The quickest way to kill a cat is to pour leaded fuel in the
tank. The best way to keep John Q. Public from killing his cat is don't let
him have leaded fuel any more.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 10:35:10 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 70

>By the way "duallie or dulley" is not a proper term for all trucks with dual
>rear wheels. The "duallie or dulley"is applied to the pickup type truck with
>the regular pickup bed but has dual rear wheels and flared fender coverings
>over them. Other trucks with dual rear wheels are simply refered to as
dual rear
>wheels. The rearend on a true duallie is the same width as the E350 vans.
The
>rearend on the dual rear wheel F350 is the same width (backing plate to
backing
>plate) as the single rear wheel, which is approx 3" shorter side to side.
>
>Confused anyone???
>

Very, but very interested as well ... so an F350 with a pickup bed on it is
likely a dually, but those with flat beds, or others are dual rear wheels ?
Are the frames different to account for this as well, or just use of wheel
spacers ? Do dual rear wheel vehicles have pickup beds on them?

I guess what I'm asking is, is the bed a distinction that can be picked out
quickly and easily? or was the dual rear wheel available with a pickup bed ?


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 09:58:34 -0600
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Head swap

At 08:58 AM 17/06/99 EDT, you wrote:
>I am getting ready to swap out the heads on my 390. Any tips suggestion or
>things to look out for? This will be my first time doing this.
>
>Thank
>Greg

If you don't have a shop manual or Christ's book (No I don't mean the New
Testament!!) then you shud have one handy. If all else fails maybe having
a New Testament handy would be a good idea too!! There is a procedure for
removing the rocker arm shafts, which you will have to do before you can
get the intake off.

Oh yeah, when you put the intake back on, do NOT use the corks on the front
and rear. Instead, (after carefully cleaning the mating surfaces with
thinners) lay a 1/4" bead of silicone on the front and back of the block
(intake mating surface) and let it cure about 1/2 hour, until it has a good
'skin' on it. Make sure you dab a little extra in the corners where the
block and head meet.

Once the silicone has skinned, lay another 1/8" bead of fresh silicone on
top, then carefully set the intake on and torque it down.

This way, you will avoid intake leakage for the longest possible time. If
the heads or the intake have been milled at all you will have an awful time
with the gaskets as they are set up for factory clearances only.

Good luck!


Marko ;^]

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 09:40:02 PDT
From: steve potratz
Subject: FTE 61-79 - wipers not parking

From: Don
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wiper problem

I had this problem with my 79Bronco's wipers. They are the intermittent
wipers and after making SURE that the "plugs" from the black box were
SECURE in the switch they once again worked. Also check to make sure the
ground is solid....

Don
At 03:31 AM 6/16/99 -0500, you wrote:
>J.S.H. wrote:
> >
> > The wipers on the 84 I bought a week ago,(now I have 3 Ford Trucks:)
> > only have the highest speed and don't park when shut off.
> > Is it the switch or wiper motor?
> > I should post this to the proper list,but I just like this list more.
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
>Sounds like a switch, to me.
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

"There has been an alarming increase in the
amount of things I know little or nothing about"
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If the wipers do not park there is a good chance
that the ground on the wiper motor is not good.
Many ford wipers power the park function separately(ie
not through the switch). I had this problem with my
Cougar and cleaned the mounting bolts(ground) problem
went away.

steve


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 10:53:44 -0600
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 F100 4x4

At 09:40 PM 16/06/99 EDT, you wrote:
>Anyone in the Great Lakes (NE Illinois) area know where I can find some
>decent (and inexpensive) rear leaf springs for my 66 F100 4x4? They are 2
>1/4 inches wide and have 9 leafs, although the previous owner may have
added
>the last few. Thanks guys!
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>
>

Go to a spring place and get new ones made.

Old springs are dangerous, especially back east where the salt flies as
thick as the snow. The main leaf usually rusts where the brackets, blocks,
and/or u-bolts are and when it becomes brittle, watch out. The thing will
bust on you when you have a load on one day, and you and your 66 4x4 will
go off in a direction not of your own choosing.

Springs are relatively easy to install but you should really get new leaf
packs, bushings, shackle bolts, and u-bolts. You will have the added
ability, when you order your new springs, to set ride height, load
capacity, and stiffness.

Remember when you are installing the springs to use plenty of Never Seez on
all of the shackle bolts and bushings. Don't never seez the U-bolt nuts
though.


Marko

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 10:10:47 -0700
From: "Sam Weatherby"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power disk brake conversion

The pedal pushrod on mine seemed to long. This is a '65 with '74 parts...
-srw

Sam Weatherby http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://insert.com/sammy
SWeatherby UsWest.Net A-SamWe Microsoft.com
'70 Grabber Sportsroof Mustang
'65 F100

- ----- Original Message -----
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power disk brake conversion


> I have a 65 F-100 with 4-wheel drum brakes and no power booster. I'm
> following the tech article from the newsgroup webpage with relative
success.
> My current question is regarding the pedal pushrod from the power booster,
> it appears to be too short. All my parts are from a 74 F-100. Any
> suggestions or past experiences would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost
> done and anxious to see how the project turns out.
>
> Joe
> jdrvup mindspring.com


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 20:28:14 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Apology to Bas van der Veer / Dyno testing

> My sincerest apologies to Bas van der Veer, for my misspelling of his name

No offence taken, I had not even read the message yet. I'm havin trouble
keeping up with the rate you guys spit out (interesting) messages. I
laughed my head off this morning about the guy who threw up because of
the JB-weld-on-exhaust-manifold smell :))

You wouldn't believe how much trouble I usually have spelling out my name
to other people, especially over the phone .. and each time I'm amazed
what spelling they come up with :)

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 21:09:36 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - manual vs. auto tranny

> else said it well, to each his own. I also must add that before my
> enlightenment I owned at least 4 GM 700R4 overdrive autos, 3 of them in the
> same suburban. A new tranny every 15K or 20K is not my idea of fun whether
> it is manual or auto.

WOW, did ford ever have these kind of problems? I put almost 20k miles on
my bronco this year, and who knows how many it's already got..
The counter said 94k but I'm not sure this is true. It may not be the
original transmission.
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 21:18:32 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Question

> > > Would anyone on the list please tell me what model automatic
> > >transmission Ford put in the 72 F-100 w/302 V8?.....
> >
> > Might be a C4 ... check the pan shape on it, then go to your local
the C4 has a kind of square pan (only ther bottom side, the top side that
bolts to the transmission is not square), whereas the C6 has kind of a
corner cut out.
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 13:23:35 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - dana axles

>What's the heaviest front/rear axles dana
>makes? dana 80?

Yo Bas:

Dana 80 is the heaviest in their traditional Dana "light" axle product line, but
Dana Corp. owns Spicer and they make axles for everything up to Class 8 trucks
and planetary axles for construction equipment and other HD off-road
applications.

BTW, I've heard that the 50/60/70 etc. designations are being phased out in
favor of metric designations based on the millimeter size of the ring gear. So
the Dana 60 is now the 248, Dana 70 is now the 267, and Dana 80 is now the 286.

Dave R (M-block devotee)


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 16:47:34 EDT
From: Sandoz2545 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - need new throttle cable for modified 300-6

I have a 77 F100 with a 300-6, which I am in the process of restoring. I
have added headers, an Offenhauser intake, and a Holley 390cfm 4bbl. I also
have a Summit carb linkage plate on which to mount the throttle cable.

Since the carb is mounted further to the passenger side of the vehicle, I
need a longer throttle cable. Does anyone have a similar setup? Could I
possibly use a cable from a V8 engine?

Eric Payne
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 16:58:42 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - need new throttle cable for modified 300-6

I'll tell you what's done the trick for me and a few other people-- (same
setup you have)

Summit racing carries a teflon coated throttle cable made by "Lokar". It's
about 25 bucks, all aluminum, and slick as heck-- I've used three of them
so far-- Nab one of those suckers. You'll have to disassemble the entire
thing when you get it, take the throttle pedal mount off and a little
steel red ball will be left on the end-- slip it through the plastic push
in petal bar mount, and instant smooth throttle cable! I'll take some
pics if you need.

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony


At 04:47 PM 6/17/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a 77 F100 with a 300-6, which I am in the process of restoring. I
>have added headers, an Offenhauser intake, and a Holley 390cfm 4bbl. I also
>have a Summit carb linkage plate on which to mount the throttle cable.
>
>Since the carb is mounted further to the passenger side of the vehicle, I
>need a longer throttle cable. Does anyone have a similar setup? Could I
>possibly use a cable from a V8 engine?
>
>Eric Payne

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 17:53:31 EDT
From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dana 70

On the topic of the Single rear wheel Dana 70....yes they do exist. They
came in the Super Camper Specials (140" wheel base...NOT the 133" standard
cab wheel base). These are the trucks with the rear wheel wells moved back
about 7" from a "regular" 8 foot bed. I also have a 1979 F-350 4x4 with a
Dana 60 front & rear. I have a Dana 70 that I plan on putting in the F-350
(from a junkyard for $35.00) as soon as I feel like it. I have heard from a
4x4 shop (Meadolands Four Wheel Drive of East Rutherford, New Jersey) that
they came in government trucks (Air Force, Postal Service, & some airport
support trucks). I don't know this as "Fact".....but they do interchange
without any trouble. If there are any questions....Just ask!!! Wayne Grabley
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 00:29:59 +0200
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto

Hi Azie, I shall contact Tim Bowman for you, and hear what he says.

Bill


- ----------
> From: am14 chrysler.com
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto
> Date: 17. juni 1999 15:08
>
> Someone writes: (and yes I forgot who already) >> There was an article
about
> 2 years ago in Custom Classic Trucks on how to
> >restore a Ford steering wheel. It gave blow by blow instructions and
> >pictures. It also gave the part numbers from the manufacturer of the
the
> >materials.
>
> There was a guy at the PF truck show last year that had done a resto on
the
> steering wheel of a '67 F100(I believe). I think his name was Bowman.
Can't
> remember the 1st name.(Tim maybe) From somewhere in Georgia. He had done
an
> excellent job, but I have no knowledge whatsoever just what and how he
did it.
> It looked lika a brand new steering wheel - that I do know. There has
to be
> someone on this list besides me that remembers him and perhaps the steps
he took
> to resto his steering wheel.
>
> Come on guys/gals. Give us the scoop. Is this Bowman guy still on the
list???
> Maybe a Tech article for the archives!!!
>
> Azie
>
>
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 19:17:02 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Finally, 460 brackets!

finally found a complete bracket and pulley setup!

Well, after calling over 27 junkyards, everyone within a 100mile radius, i
have finally located a non-car vehicle with a 460 in it, a '78 van. No
joke! out of 27, nobody had a truck or van with a 460 in it. anwyays, its
a 70 mile drive from here and i was wondering if the brackets and pulleys
will mount allright under my hood? If not, can anybody out there help me
out with this setup?? off a truck maybe? INCLUDING P/S pump pulley?

thanx!
cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 16:36:37 -0700
From: Jeff Harsha
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Overdrive Kickdown switch

I am looking for the firewall mounted OD kickdown switch (releases OD
with full throttle) for a '69 f100 with Warner t-85 three speed. The
plastic internal parts of the one in my truck have disintegrated from
age. Thanks to the helpful suggestions from a few of you I have been
able to bypass it and make the solenoid activate, Does anyone know if
any of the available passenger car (or earlier truck) units can be
modified to work? Is it same as early car (Tbird/fairlane) units?



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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 02:25:47 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Bas van der Veer
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - no oil?

> >I am sure also that we will have found another
> >energy source by then.
> More importantly, by then we'll have figured out how to make it fun and retrofit
> it into our 61-79 Ford trucks :-).
I'll miss my engine sound..

> Dave R (M-block devotee, working on a gas/plasma superconducting 400 that'll
> blow away any gas/plasma superconducting big block!)
eheh american engines conduct a lot of gas already. the more gas it uses,
the more fun it is :)

An electric power plant would be nice, then you can have really good 4wd
control.
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 20:43:38 -0500
From: "Brett L. Habben"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 17 MPG 390?

Jefro,
What have you done to your truck to get 17 MPG? Carb? Cam? Exhaust? Rear
axle ratio? Could anybody recommend which manual overdrive tranny (5spd)
would fit and hold up behind a 390?
Thanks,
Brett
'75 F100 Supercab Longbed, 390 C6.
PS. Anybody ever get better than 17 mpg. out of an FE? How?
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:4spd/auto
>Whoever had my truck before me converted it from a C6 to a T18 manual.
I
>prefer it that way because I get 15-17mpg and can remove and disassemble
the
>Jefro (68 F100 390/T18)









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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 23:00:20 EDT
From: DWeaver232 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 head questions

I stopped at a local pick an pull last weekend and saw an engine that had
C8VE-E heads on it. The car had had an engine fire. The fire was hot enough
to melt the plastic in the oil filler cap.
The engine had been put into a 76 merc. I would like to put these heads on my
78 F350 since it has been said that is an easy increase in HP. Questions:
Would the heads be okay to rebuild after the fire? Should all the valve train
be replaced? Can any of the valve train from my 78 heads work? What are the
differences between these heads and the D0VE, D3VE ones? Should I have
hardened valve seats installed? Can anyone recommend a head shop in Denver?
If these heads are trash what would a set of heads go for? Anything else I
would need to change if these heads are good?

TIA
Terry Weaver
78 F350 Supercab 2wd
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 21:47:26 -0700
From: jefro netscape.com (Jeffrey Osier-Mixon)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 17 MPG 390?

"Brett L. Habben" wrote:

> Jefro,
> What have you done to your truck to get 17 MPG? Carb? Cam? Exhaust? Rear
> axle ratio? Could anybody recommend which manual overdrive tranny (5spd)
> would fit and hold up behind a 390?

To be honest, I dunno. I paid $1200 for what I was looking for, a Big Ole
Ugly Beat-Up Truck, and ended up with a 1968 F100 with a 1970 390, 4bbl
Holley, and a T-18. The guy before me was a bit of a tinkerer. He also put
in power steering (leaks) and brakes and a 9" rear end at 3.25.

It is a beater. The body is in terrible shape, the cab mounts are gone (it
only tips a little turning left!), the right front shock mount is toast. The
interior looks like it needs to be sandblasted. It smells like fresh gas
inside when I fill it up, I have to roll down the window, which only works
most of the way. It soaks up a quart of oil every fill, and it leaves trails
by way of oil-pan and valve-cover leaks. None of the gauges work except the
fuel meter. There are holes in the exhaust. The left rear axle seal went
south and has soaked the brakes. The brakes stop the truck and then slowly,
slowly, the pedal goes to the floor.... probably a bad master cyl.

BUT, it regularly gets 15-17mpg in freeway driving, which is 90% of what I use
it for. And it sounds real cool. And it hauls dirt for my wife's garden.
One of these days I'll fix the messier and more dangerous things, maybe bring
it back a little, probably convert it to propane on recommendation from this
group.

I think the key for me at least is the rear end, tall gears make for lower
rpms at highway speeds. And I drive mostly on the freeway. And I cross my
fingers.

> PS. Anybody ever get better than 17 mpg. out of an FE? How?

I'm shooting for 20, *before* the propane conversion; I like commuting with
it! If you hear about that 5-speed, let me know. Till then I'll keep
searching for an overdrive unit.

Jefro
- --
Impossibilium nulla obligatio est.


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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 23:06:46 -0600
From: james shanks
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material

I would go with the organic type, it has more stopping ability,not the the
best pad to dissipate heat with , but not as hard on the rotors, as far as
wear. Unless you plan to drag race from stop light to stop light, in which
you will need semi met pads to dissipate the heat away from the rotor, I
don't think you'll need them, you see the older rotors are thicker and can
stand a little more heat than the newer ones, so go organic and leave the
metal on the rotor and not in your pad " on older models only".

Bas van der Veer wrote:

> >What do you guys think is the best way to go for front disks and
> >drum rear. Non-metallic, Semi-Metallic, Metallic? Anyone know
> >what was original on '73-79 trucks?
>
> brake lines or brake pads? I'd go with semi-metallic or metallic. The
> former was probably stock.
>
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 22:03:55 -0700
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Back on List

I've just rejoined the list after a several month absence due to
extensive travel and personal issues including the death of my father
and attending to duties as executor of his estate.

I've been able to acquire and install what appears to be an original
AM-FM stereo radio for my 71 F100 and have put in a new turn signal
cam. Also have acquired a one owner '63 1/2 XL fastback, black on
black.

If you are in the Burien, WA area, feel free to come out to our
cruise-in at the Fred Meyer store every Saturday nite. There's a few
F100's including one nice '72 F100 owned by Mike P. who's on this list.

Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
71 F100 & other FOMOCO's


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 23:29:44 -0600
From: james shanks
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes and wheel cylinders.

Phennollic pistons not plastic, it's really glued fibers pressed together, but
any way
you are right, they did at one time have problems with them swelling in high
humidity,
they have since fix that problem so they say, any way on to the difference
between steel ones and the other type. The phennollic ones dissipate heat
better than steel ones, kind of like ceramic, that's why the shuttle has
ceramic tiles on it's wings. Back to your problem of pulling it's more than
likely you need to replace both calipers at the same time, you know two new
ones, instead of one old and one new, also it is poss that it may be a brake
hose
something you might want to think about.

Bas van der Veer wrote:

> > Anyway, I discovered a broken bleed screw and called to find the price of
> >a new caliper (rebuilt actually) only 10 bucks, and the master cylinder,
>
> Be careful with cheap calipers. I once replaced one of mine (left front)
> with a cheapo rebuilt one and after that my truck was pulling to the right.
> Those plastic pistons are just no good. They are also the ones that can get
> stuck and drag.
>
> Bas.
> 78 bronco/351M
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 23:18:47 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 17 MPG 390?

> What have you done to your truck to get 17 MPG? Carb? Cam? Exhaust? Rear
> axle ratio? Could anybody recommend which manual overdrive tranny (5spd)
> would fit and hold up behind a 390?
> Thanks,
> Brett
> PS. Anybody ever get better than 17 mpg. out of an FE? How?
.......

That's a very good question.

I got 14 MPG out my 69 F250 with 390, Holley 1850 (modified with
adjustable secondaries), Hooker Competition headers, 3" Magna Flow exhaust,
T18 and 3.54 rear axle with HT 235/85/R16 E tires and was very happy about
it because I didn't think it could get much better than that.

So,... Just how good of gas mileage can these FE's get?


Danger



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 23:05:05 -0700
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel resto

I don't think its the Tim Bowman I know he lives in Burien Washington,
I'll ask him friday night.

Mike in Burien
Also he is no longer on the list but still has plenty of Fords...

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 03:31:57 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 head questions

In a message dated 6/17/99 8:06:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
DWeaver232 aol.com writes:


my
78 F350 since it has been said that is an easy increase in HP. Questions:
Would the heads be okay to rebuild after the fire? Should all the valve
train
be replaced? Can any of the valve train from my 78 heads work? What are the
differences between these heads and the D0VE, D3VE ones? Should I have....


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