61-79-list-digest Tuesday, January 12 1999 Volume 03 : Number 008



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny & Oil Pressure
FTE 61-79 - 240~300 swap (almost)
FTE 61-79 - engine paint
FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switch
FTE 61-79 - Front disc
FTE 61-79 - Front disc
FTE 61-79 - Tranny & Oil Pressure
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine paint
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm
Re: FTE 61-79 - Carb Questions?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100
FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine paint
Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100
FTE 61-79 - Fuel problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - slack in timing chain?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100
FTE 61-79 - Differential
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine paint
FTE 61-79 - 76 to 74 power steering pump
Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100
FTE 61-79 - power steering and re: axles
Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering and re: axles
Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100
FTE 61-79 - power steering and re: axles
Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering and re: axles
Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering and re: axles
FTE 61-79 - 5 spd trannys
FTE 61-79 - Fuel Switch
FTE 61-79 - on-going mystery
Re: FTE 61-79 - on-going mystery
FTE 61-79 - Re: Impounding my F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Impounding my F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Impounding my F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240~300 swap (almost)
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine paint
FTE 61-79 - Header gaskets ; hard starting while hot
Re: FTE 61-79 - Header gaskets ; hard starting while hot
FTE 61-79 - RE: Pitman arm
Re: FTE 61-79 - Header gaskets ; hard starting while hot
FTE 61-79 - 4.10 Gears
FTE 61-79 - VIN decoder
Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Fuel Switch

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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 04:19:08 -0800
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny & Oil Pressure

your oil pressure sounds resonable to me. If your engine has a few miles
on it your bearing clearances will lower the pressure, you could always
go to a thicker oil. Since your pressure goes up when you rev the engine
it means the pressure relief spring in the pump is working fine. the
older ford engines tend to react the way you describe.

cannandale netpointe.com wrote:
>
> Couple of Questions:
>
> 1st, my oil pressure. Installed a new oil pump around 8,000 or so miles
> ago. And just recently it has started doing this. Cruising down the road
> no matter what rmp it reads around 25psi or so. If you push on the gas
> though, the pressure goes down, but when you let off on the gas, it jumped
> to like 40 or 50, till you press on the gas again. I dont know if that has
> anything to do with the weather that we are having considering that it is
> been below freezing for 2 weeks and im running 10w40. I dont think it
> would matter, but...
>
> 2nd. Im running a C6 and was looking at maybe going to an overdrive
> tranny? I at first looked at maybe a manual which is what I really want.
> But I dont have the funds to lengthen/shorten driveshafs, new cluth, etc.
> So I decided that I want to go to an overdirve automatic? Is there any
> certan ones I can use? Without doing huge modifications? its a 4x4,
> Np205, 460. If that helps any. Also is there any other years of colums
> that I could use that would have overdrive on the shifter? It dosent have
> to be a direct bolt in, just something that will work, I can do the
> modifications..
>
> Thanx,
> cannandale
> '78 F250 4x4, 460
>
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 07:55:33 -0500
From: Doug Roach
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 240~300 swap (almost)

All,
I finally got the scratch together for a rebuilt 300 I-6 from a
reputable outfit down here. The 240 in my '67 F-100 had dropped a valve
and was really tired. Last weekend some friends & I decided to go for
it. NONE of us had ever done a complete engine swap before but the
Dolphin game didn't look too promising so what the heck.
By Sunday evening, everything was done. We fired it up...it ran
rough...adjusted the timing...and for only one minute that new 300
purred like kitten. (High fives all around.)
Then the freeze plug blew.
The coolant wasn't even hot. The truck does have the original size
(read:very small) radiator and I know that I'll have to get a bigger one
eventually. The water pump works fine. The original manifolds (which we
transferred to the new block) have no cracks or other problems that we
can see. The thermostat was new three months ago... should I just take
it out?
There is one other thing we can't figure out. The original FoMoCo
one-barrel carb mounts to the intake and there is a threaded hole on
that intake directly beneath the carburator with the open end down.
Nothing is mounted there and as far as we recall, nothing came out of
that hole. It seemes to be about three inches deep and one guy said he
noticed that air was coming out of it in time with the cylinders firing
when the engine was running. (He stuck his finger under there for some
reason.) Does this hole do anything?
The guy at the engine place said the engine was dyno-tested before
delivery and suspects that it's just a lousy install on the freeze-plug.
Before I put a new one in, is there anything else this type of incident
may indicate? The plugs in the block are steel. Should I replace the
blown one with steel or brass? Do I need to change them all? Is there a
glue that's better than others?
Please, guys, help get this old warhorse back on the road. where it
deserves to be.
After all, like Pat says... "We are FTE!" (even if some of us ARE a bit
less savvy.)

Thanks,
Doug Roach
'67 F-100 (currently in limbo in Miami.)
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 07:00:29 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - engine paint

>>I have seen two different shades of blue used on Ford engines. Seems like
>>I've seen some '60s Mustang engines that used a darker blue.
>
>I've noticed this too .. sometimes I think its just the Mustang folks going
>overboard, but there were two different colors listed at the parts store
>where I was getting some for an air cleaner...
>
> Does anyone
>>know what years used what shades (lighter and darker)? Were different
>>shades of blue used on different vehicle applications at the same time?
>>
>Dunno this one, but I know 82 was the switch to grey ... in the cars...
>
>Lemme know what you find out if someone emails you privately instead please.
>

Now, now boys, let's not be so secretive about this. Inquiring minds want
to know.
I was always under the impression from "sources" that the darkest
"corporate" blue was used from 1948-the very early 60's when they switched
to the #205 lighter blue (but darker than the baby blue used for a while in
the 70's on cars.) I may be way off here but I have been *very* curious as
to the exact color of paint I should use. I have tried to match the new
paint to the old factory paint from a valve cover and the valve cover just
appears a little,teeny, tiny bit darker. Would age and oil/grease have
anything to do with it? #205 was the closest FoMoCo blue color I found to
it so that is what I have been using on valve covers and air cleaners.

If anyone knows a definite answer, please share openly. Some of us
anal/technical people who are trying to authentically reproduce a factory
appearance want to know.

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu

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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 08:05:15 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switch

Bill Hart writes: >>Wasn't there a thread a while ago where someone
mentioned there was a valve AND a switch you had to change, that way it
would work for both tanks ?

Don't remember the thread, but very easily could have been. On all the
factory setups I have owned with dual tanks, the fuel guage read the tank
the switch had selected. All of these have had the switch in the heater
control panel. I've never owned one of the older versions that had a
manual valve in the floor.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 08:10:32 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Front disc

Bill Hart writes: >> Can we (with
the disc brakes ?

Not sure, but I would think that if you have the donor vehicle, then you
can swap enough of the parts to make it work. If both are '75's, then It
should be a very straight forward swap, but then again I haven't done this,
so I may be all wet. Wouldn't be the 1st time.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 08:20:32 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Front disc

Tony Marino writes: >>Part of the new changes made to ford trucks in '73
was front disk brakes on all F-100 & F-150 4x4 models

Then it had to be an option, or something wo do with standard vs heavy
duty, because the '74 F150 4X4 that I had, that was stolen had front drums.
I didn't but it new, but it was a Ford Executive lease vehicle with only
6600 miles on it whin I got it.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 07:19:45 -0600
From: David John
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tranny & Oil Pressure

cannandale wrote>
2nd. Im running a C6 and was looking at maybe going to an overdrive
tranny? I at first looked at maybe a manual which is what I really
want.
But I dont have the funds to lengthen/shorten driveshafs, new cluth,
etc.
So I decided that I want to go to an overdirve automatic? Is there any
certan ones I can use? Without doing huge modifications? its a 4x4,
Np205, 460. If that helps any. Also is there any other years of colums
that I could use that would have overdrive on the shifter? It dosent
have
to be a direct bolt in, just something that will work, I can do the
modifications..
>>>>

I have been looking into this for quite awhile, wanting to convert my 78
F250 4x4 supercab w/ 460 and 4 speed to an automatic. While this can be
done it can not be done cheaply. The main reason being that it requires
a computer to control the shifting of the tranny in the E4OD. Premier
Performance will sell just the computer for $1300. So unless you are
able to do that type of modification I believe the manual would be the
cheaper route to go. Azie I believe is doing his homework on this too,
he has a post in this digest about a Bauman unit which I believe another
member pointed us too awhile back.

I have been told that the E4OD would be a direct bolt up to the 460
np205 with some cross member movement and the associated driveshaft
adjustment. So the big block 5speed should be also(I don't know this
for sure - anyone else??), while it probably has a hydrolic clutch,
linkage should be easy enough to make to get around this and new clutch
will surely be less than $1300.

I would think you could buy and install the 5speed for less than the
computer would be for the auto.

You and Azie keep us posted on the 70's trucks venturing into overdrive
land, I'm sure many of us are very interested.

David
78 F250 4x4 CS supercab; 460, 4spd, NP205
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 08:35:12 -0500
From: shoman p3.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine paint

Being one of those anal 64-73 Mustang people before getting addicted
to my 68 truck, I have a 69 Mustang that has the dark blue engine color
and from the shows I attended ford used the lighter Blue(sky blue)
up until 1966 then switched to Ford Dark Blue(corporate blue???)
But also remember ford did some strange things in 65/66 too they
had 289's painted black for awhile in mustangs...Also my 68 has the
original motor and its dark blue..Hope this helps........
Joe
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 05:44:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Arlene Mason
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm

We've always used the Pitman Arm Puller. It's a special tool for doing
that. They cost about $15 to $20 and are worth it, or if you can find
a place to borrow/rent one that's even better.

Arlene
'77 F-100 400/c6

- ---Marc A Stine wrote:
>
> Anybody know of an easy way to pull a pitman arm? I've tried two
> different sized three jawed pullers and this darn thing won't come
off.
>
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>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 05:50:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Arlene Mason
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Carb Questions?

Sounds like something I could use. I don't want to go racing around
(save that for the Mustang). But, keeping up with traffic around here
is a consideration. Dallas traffic waits for no one.

Thanks for the input.
Arlene
'77 F-100 400/C6

- ---Lord_Xaenon wrote:
>
> Arlene Mason wrote:
>
> > engine back together because the guys want a 4v). So, the question
is,
> > which 4 barrel carb do you suggest? We have been looking at the
> > Edlebrock 600, but, I don't know much about it. I really don't want
> > one that you would have to "fiddle" with a lot, as in adjusting it
all
> > the time. Can you help?
>
> The Edelbrocks are great carburetors. You set 'em once and forget
'em.
> They're basically revamps of the old Carters from years ago, and they
> are solid and reliable. They don't make as much "all out" power as a
> Holley, but you don't have to adjust them every twenty minutes,
either.
> I had an Edelbrock 500 cfm on my old 1964 Comet (289 V8) and I only
> adjusted it twice in the three years I owned it (aside from initial
> setup). It always started right up, idled well, and turned in some
> pretty good performance. Not race-level performance, but it'd still
> haul when I got on it, and I embarrassed more than a few IROC-Z
owners.
> The engine was mostly stock, aside from headers, electronic ignition,
> a mild Crane cam, an open-element air cleaner, and a Performer intake.
>
> One thing I've noted on them, they seem to be a little sensitive to
> dirt in the fuel. Make sure you have a good fuel filter (I ran two)
> and change it regularly.
>
> Mark.
>
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>

_________________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 05:56:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Arlene Mason
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100

- ---David Wadson wrote:
>
> >I have a 64 F-100 stepside and I need some help/advice with it. The
> >brakes have gone out on it and I'm not sure what to do with it
anymore.
> >The body is in great condition, a local vocational school removed all
> >the rust, and repainted it. The bed is brand new restored with new
> >slats of wood. The interior needs help which I've been doing slowly.
> >
> >Anyway, the city where my parents live have decided to declare the
> >truck a "nuisance" even though it's on private property and has a
> >fresh paint job! I have to prove that it's driveable otherwise they
> >will impound it and sell it off. Moving it to another location won't
> >help
> >matters because they told me that they would just track it down and
> >impound it. The law is that a car can't be left "in a state of
repair"
> >in public view or be left in one location for more then 72 hours even
> >if it's on private property. The truck has always been registered as
> >an operating vehicle.

It's a very pretty blue
> >truck with fresh paint, no rust and it doesn't even leak oil. The
engine
> >is still in good shape. It's missing an air cleaner and the
acclerator
> >rod is a little sticky, but other then that, it's a good truck.
>
> The missing cleaner should be easily replaced with an simple
aftermarket
> one if you can't get an original. The accelerator can be loosened up
with a
> bit of lubricant and those brakes can't be too hard to fix. Your other
> options are to push it into a neighbours driveway for 3 days, than
back
> into the parents for another 3...build tent around it...take all 4
tires
> off and drop it onto the ground...course if they got serious about
towing
> it then they would probably trash the truck while picking it up...
>

> Oh well, let's fix that truck up...it should be out cruising the
streets
> anyways!
>
>
> David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
> "PS2" - 78 F100/302/C4
>
The fate of your wonderful truck makes me very sad....
Last year mine was in similar danger, although Dallas Police seen to
take just a little longer before they get annoyed. My truck was in my
Mother-in-laws back yard for 364 days. Anyway, we had it behind a
locked gate with two chow dogs in the yard. That would deter anyone
from moving it. -- Also, you could try what the guy next door to my
MIL did, he had a carport and backed his truck into it, and put tarps
all around, while he was working on it. His was in there much longer
than mine and no one bothered him. So I guess it's where you live. --
I vote for getting the truck back on it's feet!!!

Arlene
'77 F100 400/C6
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 08:12:29 -0600 (CST)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100

Steve,
Sounds like your parents have some crotchitie old neighbors with
nothing better to do.

Brakes are not that difficult. I don't know if 64's had hydraulic brakes,
but if so, start by making sure you have plenty of fluid in the resorvoir. If
that's not a problem and your not leaking fluid, you most likely just need
new shoes/pads.

In Texas, you can obtain a registration class for "show" cars/trucks that
basically is only for driving to and from car shows etc. If you can't get
the brakes fixed in time, perhaps you could argue that the truck is a
"show" vehicle? Anyway, I hope it doesn't come to that for you.

Get the brakes fixed so you can drive it. A truck in that good a shape
needs to be used.


Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 08:26:14 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine paint

>I was always under the impression from "sources" that the darkest
>"corporate" blue was used from 1948-the very early 60's

Which engines was this on ? The 289/260 and other small blocks at this
time were either black with gold valve covers and air cleaners, or black
with orangish red ... til about 66 or 67. I know the T-birds followed a
similar paint scheme with their 8's, the top one always getting the gold
valve covers and air cleaner. The 6's may have been blue ... I don't
really recall seeing too many of those to know what they're supposed to be
though...

when they switched
>to the #205 lighter blue (but darker than the baby blue used for a while in
>the 70's on cars.)

This switch is the one I'm pretty interested in. Not that I'll ever NEED
to know it, I'd just like to use the darker one for my 390 when its ready
to go in. No point in keeping it original, I just like the darker color
better.


I have tried to match the new
>paint to the old factory paint from a valve cover and the valve cover just
>appears a little,teeny, tiny bit darker. Would age and oil/grease have
>anything to do with it? #205 was the closest FoMoCo blue color I found to
>it so that is what I have been using on valve covers and air cleaners.
>
That sounds logical, and yes, I would think oil and grease would get down
into the paint and darken it a bit. Not to mention whatever you use to
clean the grease off may also add to the darkening, not dramatically but
enough to make it look a touch lighter...

This is just my guess ... seems like I saw something on it once, but can't
remember where, or what it said (Mustang Monthly a couple years ago
maybe?)... and I'm not really old enough to have seen them new ... sorry guys.

Bill
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 08:31:20 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100

> Brakes are not that difficult. I don't know if 64's had hydraulic brakes,

When was the last time you saw mechanical brakes ? I'd have to guess the
30's pretty much got rid of all those ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 09:33:01 -0500
From: "Parsons, Raymond"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel problem

I replaced the fuel pump on my 67 352 and am still not getting fuel to the
carburetor. I suspect I have a problem somewhere between the tank and the
pump. Tonight I am going to see if the pump picks up fuel from another
container (possible I am not getting the pump shaft onto the cam). What
else should I look for; I vaguely remember reading about a pick up tube in
the tank (tank is behind seat). Any suggestions are appreciated as I need
to get the truck back on the road as SWMBO has a horse show in two weeks and
is already getting wound up about the truck being in the garage and not on
the road.
Ray
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 08:33:32 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - slack in timing chain?

> I just bought a used 460 from a 70 model lincoln. I have been checking it
>over . With the plugs out and with me turning the crank, i can feel slack in
>the timing chain. Is this ok? Please let me know, before i install this

When the timing chain on my truck was loose, it was forever hesitating and
a pain to tune up, as soon as I'd tune it, go out and drive it around and
bingo back where I started. Kind of really frustrating. I put a new
timing chain on and it runs better than it has since I bought it 5 years
ago. Almost makes me want to keep this motor, but I'm hopin I can get the
power from a 390 I'm workin on. At any rate, for $20 I wouldn't hesitate
to put a new timing chain on, they're not that expensive and you'll know
that's not the problem.

Just my point of view

Bill
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 09:51:06 -0500
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100

> -- Also, you could try what the guy next door to my
> MIL did, he had a carport and backed his truck into it, and put tarps
> all around, while he was working on it.

I don't remember where I originally heard this, but the best "good
one" I ever heard on this subject was the suggestion of having a mural
painted of your truck (or some rusty piece of junk) up on jack stands on
a legal fence facing the street. I'm know that is not constructive to
the whole situation and it's an invitation to harrasement, but it still
sounded good to me ;-).

OX
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 10:14:54 -0500
From: Jimbo
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Differential

What does a factory limited slip look like? I found a 9Inch centersection
sitting in the local junkyard with a curious looking diff inside. I could
see the bevel cut gears inside, and I could rotate the axle splines by
hand, but it had a different case than mine. Thanks


Jimbo

'77 Supercab 466

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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 08:32:51 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine paint

I had a 63 Fairlane with the original 260, never been opened and the factory
color was light blue. Hope this adds to the confusion...;-)

- -----Original Message-----
From: William S Hart
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, January 12, 1999 6:28 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine paint


>>I was always under the impression from "sources" that the darkest
>>"corporate" blue was used from 1948-the very early 60's
>
>Which engines was this on ? The 289/260 and other small blocks at this
>time were either black with gold valve covers and air cleaners, or black
>with orangish red ... til about 66 or 67. I know the T-birds followed a
>similar paint scheme with their 8's, the top one always getting the gold
>valve covers and air cleaner. The 6's may have been blue ... I don't
>really recall seeing too many of those to know what they're supposed to be
>though...


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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 11:07:07 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 76 to 74 power steering pump

Hi

I am replaceing the power steering gear box in my 74 f350 with one

out of a 79 f250. Now for the pump. Is there any way to check the pump to see

if its good, without installing it? I have a pump out of a 76 ford car. It

feels alot tighter then the one off the truck. If I need to use this one,

I will need to exchange the pully. Anyone do this before. What tools are
required? Are they pressed on?



TIA

Larry


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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 11:58:45 -0600 (CST)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100

>When was the last time you saw mechanical brakes ? I'd have to
>guess the
>30's pretty much got rid of all those ...

But if I assumed it was hydraulic and answered as such, there would be
a flood of emails saying that THIS one didn't have hydraulics :-)
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:29:24 EST
From: bobherring juno.com (Bobby D Herring)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100

>From: "Stephen Lau Jr"
>I have to prove that it's driveable otherwise they
>will impound it and sell it off. Moving it to another location won't
>help matters because they told me that they would just track it down
>and impound it.
>
>Steve
If I lived closer I would volunteer.
Where I live in Texas, if it is visible from the street, they say it has
to have current registration and safety inspection or it is considered
"junk". I received on of these for my '64. They said I had 10 days to
get rid of it or they would scrap it for me! Luckily, I had access to
a place out in the country to move it to. It's been there for several
years.
Bobby Herring
'64 F100 short-wide, 292 Y-block/3speed, motor in pieces, make me an
offer
'72 F100 400/C6 in progress
'93 Ranger V6/Auto/Super cab
'97 Explorer XLT 4.0 Auto

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:00:51 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100

At 11:58 AM 1/12/99 , you wrote:
>>When was the last time you saw mechanical brakes ? I'd have to
>>guess the
>>30's pretty much got rid of all those ...
>
>But if I assumed it was hydraulic and answered as such, there would be
>a flood of emails saying that THIS one didn't have hydraulics :-)

True :) Darned if you do, darned if you don't ...

:)


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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 14:06:16 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100

Besides the fact that I'm totally blown away by this-

Isn't the whole issue because it is not registered/has recent plates? When
my buddy and I started to tear down his '72 we had a "representative" from
the highway patrol stop by and tell Keith he had 30 days to get rid of the
truck in the yard, or the same thing would happen. He went and bought new
plates for it, and duct taped the plate to the windshield of the cab
sitting in the yard, and nobody could say anything. I have to make an
observation that may be a really stupid one- If the vehicle registered and
you "just don't drive it" for weeks on end because you have second vehicle,
what do people do? Come around to your house and ask to safety inspect
your vehicle?! By the sound of it, you're truck sure isn't an eyesore! 8-)

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

At 01:29 PM 1/12/99 EST, you wrote:
>>From: "Stephen Lau Jr"
>>I have to prove that it's driveable otherwise they
>>will impound it and sell it off. Moving it to another location won't
>>help matters because they told me that they would just track it down
>>and impound it.

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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 14:23:13 EST
From: "bill comstock"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - power steering and re: axles

I was just wondering if anyone could suggest why my '78 f150 has a
tendency to lose power steering when i go through deep water holes? The
power seems to reappear after ~30 seconds. It does not happen when i
hit a pothole on rough roads (side to side force exerted on only one
wheel). Is my pump cavitating?

To the owner of the larger 9" rear: I had the same in the back of my
'79 t-bird, boy at the parts counter didn't believe me till i took it in
for him to see--the axles are 1/3 again larger than the ones in my
truck, too bad they are too short. Was this a special order from ford?

keep truckin'
bc

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 14:25:19 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering and re: axles

You're power steering belt is probably slipping. 8-)

Same problem!

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

At 02:23 PM 1/12/99 EST, you wrote:
>I was just wondering if anyone could suggest why my '78 f150 has a
>tendency to lose power steering when i go through deep water holes? The
>power seems to reappear after ~30 seconds. It does not happen when i
>hit a pothole on rough roads (side to side force exerted on only one
>wheel). Is my pump cavitating?
>
>To the owner of the larger 9" rear: I had the same in the back of my
>'79 t-bird, boy at the parts counter didn't believe me till i took it in
>for him to see--the axles are 1/3 again larger than the ones in my
>truck, too bad they are too short. Was this a special order from ford?
>
>keep truckin'
>bc
>
>______________________________________________________
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:31:30 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Impounding my F-100

At 01:06 PM 1/12/99 , you wrote:
>Besides the fact that I'm totally blown away by this-
Me too ... I know

lets have a big FTE party at that house and we'll all park our trucks in
the driveway for the weekend, if we pick a long weekend it'll be more than
72 hours too, so they'll have to either tow them all, or just let it be ...

Sorry must be crazy thought day ... i guess I'd say just turn it around so
its facing the other way every couple of days, then tell them you're
working the nite shift, they jsut don't see you move it ... :)


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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:34:00 -0600 (CST)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - power steering and re: axles

>Is my pump cavitating?

>From my understanding of cavitation (a decrease in the pressure causing
small bubbles that implode), I doubt your pump is cavitating. I would
suggest that its either the belt slipping or (less likely) perhaps a sudden
slow down in pump speed due to water resistance or a quick
temperature change (cooling) of the hydraulic fluid affecting pressure.

My power steering doesn't waver until my arms get tired :-)
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:35:27 -0600
From: Steve Schmeckpeper
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering and re: axles

Bill, Could the belt be slipping??
Smeck

bill comstock wrote:

> I was just wondering if anyone could suggest why my '78 f150 has a
> tendency to lose power steering when i go through deep water holes? The

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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:33:53 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering and re: axles

I think that it might be your pump belt getting wet and slipping.
When it dry's (approx. 30 seconds) it starts to turn the pump again.
_


At 02:23 PM 1/12/99 EST, you wrote:
>I was just wondering if anyone could suggest why my '78 f150 has a
>tendency to lose power steering when i go through deep water holes? The
>power seems to reappear after ~30 seconds. It does not happen when i
>hit a pothole on rough roads (side to side force exerted on only one
>wheel). Is my pump cavitating?
>
>To the owner of the larger 9" rear: I had the same in the back of my
>'79 t-bird, boy at the parts counter didn't believe me till i took it in
>for him to see--the axles are 1/3 again larger than the ones in my
>truck, too bad they are too short. Was this a special order from ford?
>
>keep truckin'
>bc
>
>______________________________________________________
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 11:49:49 -0800
From: "Jeff Hannon"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 5 spd trannys

I have a '79 F150, 300-6 and I would *really* like to put in a
5 speed from an '80-'90s F150.

Can anyone tell me what model year they started bolting 5 speeds
to the 300 six? I've looked at the Edmunds web page but'89 is
the oldest truck they listed.

Also, does anyone know who makes the 5spd or anything
about it? Gear ratios? Transfer cases it works with? How about
a tranny with more gears from a commercial truck that would bolt
to the 300-6. I don't mind getting new shafts made.

Jeff
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 11:58:40 -0800
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel Switch

Andrew writes: >>The next question is should the fuel gauge read for
both>tanks?
>
>Yes. Whichever you select.
>
Wasn't there a thread a while ago where someone mentioned there was a
valve
AND a switch you had to change, that way it would work for both tanks ?


Just my 2cents




My Dad's 72 has a manual valve on the driver's side floor
and a "Fuel "switch on the dash.
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 15:02:56 -0500 (EST)
From: jdklaers mailhost.magicnet.net (PredFan)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - on-going mystery

Here's a case for all you Ford Detectives out there.

Your mission: To discover the true year and model of my truck and explain
to me how the #%#^&*$ it got so jumbled up.

Clues and facts:

The Vehicle ID plate is missing.

The VIN number (which doesn't indicate the year) is on my title and no
where else that I can find.

The Title says 1971.

The steering wheel belongs to a pre '71 truck.

The grille is from a '68.

I have to buy brake shoes for a '68, if I buy them for a '71 they won't fit.

A 302 V8, which mine has, wasn't offered (standard) in '68 but was in '71.

The VIN number (on the title) says that I have a 240 six cylinder which I don't.

The bumper is chrome which was offered in '71 but the chrome trim on the
lip of the hood which was standard on '71s is missing on mine.

Good Luck.

John Klaers
1968-1971 F-100 Custom Flare-side


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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 14:18:03 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - on-going mystery

>Clues and facts:
>
>The Vehicle ID plate is missing.
>
>The VIN number (which doesn't indicate the year) is on my title and no
>where else that I can find.
>
>The Title says 1971.
>
>The steering wheel belongs to a pre '71 truck.
>
>The grille is from a '68.
>
>I have to buy brake shoes for a '68, if I buy them for a '71 they won't fit.
>
>A 302 V8, which mine has, wasn't offered (standard) in '68 but was in '71.
>
>The VIN number (on the title) says that I have a 240 six cylinder which I
>don't.
>
>The bumper is chrome which was offered in '71 but the chrome trim on the
>lip of the hood which was standard on '71s is missing on mine.
>


Sounds familiar .. have you seen my web page ? Here's part of the stuff on
it :

73 Cab
74 Drive train/chassis
74 Bed
79 Grille/Right fender(?)

Which is okay now that I know that ... before the guy told me it was 76
running gear ... great a change-over year, but started hunting down part
numbers and such, and everything has lined up with the 74 that he told me
the chassis was ...

I know mine was put together from several, and it has introduced its
problems by doing so, but if a guy knew what he was doing when he did this
he shouldn't have too many problems at all. I would guess something
similar has happened in your case, whether it was just parts changed out to
make it look better, or a couple of totalled trucks put together to make a
nice one. I would guess from your descriptions that the guy probably blew
the motor or something and put in a new one along with a new bumper for
some unknown reason along the way ... as for the title saying its a 71 ...
well strange things happen when vehicles get so old ... had a guy swear he
had a 68 mustang for parts ... all I saw was a 69 sittin around ... but he
swore the title said 68 .... hard to miss when 69 is the only year with 4
round head lights ...

Anyway things can get goofed up ... just take your time and see what part
numbers you have on things that you recognize ... C8XXX will be 68 part
numbers, D1 71 numbers, and just go from that ...

Hope this helps a little ...
Bill
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 12:24:36 -0800
From: "Stephen Lau Jr"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Impounding my F-100

Thanks for all the replys! Still trying to sift through them all. ;-)

Here's some more details about the impound process here. An officer
is going to come out to my parents house on the appointed day (Jan 20th)
and watch me drive it forward, backwards, a complete 360 degree turn
to the left and to the right, and watch it idle for 15 mins by itself
without stalling. It also has to be completely street legal. All the
lights in place, working door handles, horn, windows, exhaust, carb,
brakes, etc. If it fails any of these tests then it can and most likely
will be impounded.

If I notify the police officer and tell them that the vehicle is
non-operable before they come out to inspect it, I will get a free tow
to the impound yard and the scrap metal heap. If it fails the test
without
telling them beforehand, then I will get charged something like $200.00
for the inspection fee and still get impounded. If it passes, then I
get to keep the truck, BUT it doesn't prevent the truck from being
tagged
AGAIN as a nuisance vehicle at any time. To be honest though, the
officer
I talked with said that if the same vehicle was re-tagged within a month
they would probably ignore it.

I can't hide the vehicle in a shed or anything because they will flag
the vehicle as being in violation and I won't be able to register it
next year with the California DMV. Also, if anyone sees me driving it
around, they can immediately impound it on the spot.

The city ordinance is built on California Vehicle Code 22660 which gives
the right for cities to remove any vehicles on public OR private
property
that are declared "nuisances".

As for the truck's brakes...

I have gotten a couple of leads for places around here that would be
willing
to fix the brakes for me. I have a new accelerator pedal on order that
hopefully
will arrive before Jan 20th. Since I'm a member of AAA, I'm going to
have a tow
truck come out and tow it to the repair shop and have them work on the
brakes
for me and make it street legal. It was suggested that I should do this
because
if the officer complains that the brakes aren't legal, I can show him
the
repair bill and claim "it wasn't my fault".

It looks to me like there is a leak in the brake lines somewhere, but
I'm not
sure where. The front reservior for the brake fluid is running low even
after
I fill it back up and the rear brake lights won't work. The brake light
sensor is attached to the fluid lines that leads to the front reservoir.
I
had checked the electrical lines to the brake lights and those are fine,
so
it looks like a pressure problem. By poking around underneath the truck,
I
don't see where the fluid is leaking out.

Hope this helps clarify some of the problems. Thanks a lot for
everyone's
help so far, I really appreciate it.

Steve

- --
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Stephen Lau |
Lawrence Berkeley National Labs | Change is inevitable,
1 Cyclotron Road, 50F, Berkeley CA 94720 | except from a vending
(510) 486-7178(Work) (510) 486-5548(Fax) | machine.
slau lbl.gov http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www-vis.lbl.gov/~slau |
main(i){putchar(i["irj^q;f[d%]djxi"]+i) &&i++%13&&main(i);}
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 14:33:46 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Impounding my F-100

At 02:24 PM 1/12/99 , you wrote:
>Thanks for all the replys! Still trying to sift through them all. ;-)
>
Sorry to add to them, but something sounds a lot fishy to me ...

>Here's some more details about the impound process here. An officer
>is going to come out to my parents house on the appointed day (Jan 20th)
>and watch me drive it forward, backwards, a complete 360 degree turn
>to the left and to the right, and watch it idle for 15 mins by itself
>without stalling.

Makes sense, almost ... a full 360 degree turn is going to take some room
... just a hunch your driveway isn't that big ... be sure you've got enough
gas for the idling too ...


>If I notify the police officer and tell them that the vehicle is
>non-operable before they come out to inspect it, I will get a free tow
>to the impound yard and the scrap metal heap. If it fails the test
>without
>telling them beforehand, then I will get charged something like $200.00
>for the inspection fee and still get impounded. If it passes, then I

If they impound it do you still get a chance to fix it before it becomes
scrap ? Oh you're in CA aren't you ... probably not then ...


>get to keep the truck, BUT it doesn't prevent the truck from being
>tagged
>AGAIN as a nuisance vehicle at any time. To be honest though, the
>officer
>I talked with said that if the same vehicle was re-tagged within a month
>they would probably ignore it.
>
That's good, why can they tag it as nuisance unless someone is complaining
about it, if it runs and is only driven occasionally it is still likely to
fall into this category just because someone doesn't like you ...

>I can't hide the vehicle in a shed or anything because they will flag
>the vehicle as being in violation and I won't be able to register it
>next year with the California DMV.

In violation of what ? If its in a shed/garage, then its not in sight of
everyone and not a nuisance (or can they make you clean your room when you
get too much junk in it ?)...If you decide to put it in the garage to avoid
the nuisance charge .... just seems like it wouldn't qualify if it was not
in the same place ...

Also, if anyone sees me driving it
>around, they can immediately impound it on the spot.
>
Why ? I thought the whole problem was that it was parked in the driveway
for too long, if its out driving around then its not parked in the driveway
and according to the definition you gave us before its not a nuisance
vehicle, its a perfectly roadworthy (as far as they know) vehicle that you
finally decided to take for a spin ...


>The city ordinance is built on California Vehicle Code 22660 which gives
>the right for cities to remove any vehicles on public OR private
>property
>that are declared "nuisances".
>
Seems to me that the term nuisance needs to be defined somewhere along the
line ...


At any rate, you should probably get the brakes fixed and start driving it
before it becomes a nuisance that you can't drive or anything ... but it
seems like an awful mess, glad I don't have to deal with that ... heck I
dont' even have to deal with emissions stuff ... and I really don't envy
you guys who do ...

Good luck

Bill
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 12:51:20 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Impounding my F-100

Your tax dollars at work! And you all thought the government wasn't here to
help the citizens...I mean if this isn't an example of the government
striving to improve our quality of life then I don't know what is.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Lau Jr
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, January 12, 1999 12:27 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Impounding my F-100


>Here's some more details about the impound process here. An officer
>is going to come out to my parents house on the appointed day (Jan 20th)
>and watch me drive it forward, backwards, a complete 360 degree turn
>to the left and to the right, and watch it idle for 15 mins by itself
>without stalling. It also has to be completely street legal. All the
>lights in place, working door handles, horn, windows, exhaust, carb,
>brakes, etc. If it fails any of these tests then it can and most likely
>will be impounded.
>
>If I notify the police officer and tell them that the vehicle is
>non-operable before they come out to inspect it, I will get a free tow
>to the impound yard and the scrap metal heap. If it fails the test
>without
>telling them beforehand, then I will get charged something like $200.00
>for the inspection fee and still get impounded. If it passes, then I
>get to keep the truck, BUT it doesn't prevent the truck from being
>tagged
>AGAIN as a nuisance vehicle at any time. To be honest though, the
>officer
>I talked with said that if the same vehicle was re-tagged within a month
>they would probably ignore it.
>
>I can't hide the vehicle in a shed or anything because they will flag
>the vehicle as being in violation and I won't be able to register it
>next year with the California DMV. Also, if anyone sees me driving it
>around, they can immediately impound it on the spot.
>
>The city ordinance is built on California Vehicle Code 22660 which gives
>the right for cities to remove any vehicles on public OR private
>property
>that are declared "nuisances".
>

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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 12:58:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240~300 swap (almost)

Doug boasted:

> I finally got the scratch together for a rebuilt 300 I-6 from a
> reputable outfit down here. The 240 in my '67 F-100 had dropped a valve

[Non-football game, va-room, high fives deleted]

> Then the freeze plug blew.
> The coolant wasn't even hot. The truck does have the original size
> (read:very small) radiator and I know that I'll have to get a bigger one
> eventually. The water pump works fine. The original manifolds (which we
> transferred to the new block) have no cracks or other problems that we
> can see. The thermostat was new three months ago... should I just take
> it out?

"Parts left out cost nothing and cause no service problems". Leave the
thermostat in, it's a good thing.

> There is one other thing we can't figure out. The original FoMoCo
> one-barrel carb mounts to the intake and there is a threaded hole on
> that intake directly beneath the carburator with the open end down.
> Nothing is mounted there and as far as we recall, nothing came out of
> that hole. It seemes to be about three inches deep and one guy said he
> noticed that air was coming out of it in time with the cylinders firing
> when the engine was running. (He stuck his finger under there for some
> reason.) Does this hole do anything?

'67? Is the PCV system intact? Can't think of anything else, I'll let
the six owners take this one on . . . .

> The guy at the engine place said the engine was dyno-tested before
> delivery and suspects that it's just a lousy install on the freeze-plug.
> Before I put a new one in, is there anything else this type of incident
> may indicate? The plugs in the block are steel. Should I replace the
> blown one with steel or brass? Do I need to change them all? Is there a
> glue that's better than others?

I'd agree. Just put a new plug in. Use some non-hardening sealer (permatex)
on it, and pound it in. Use a pretty brass one if you like, steel are fine.
Don't use one of the rubber-expando thingies, It WILL fall out when you
don't want it to:-|.

> Please, guys, help get this old warhorse back on the road. where it
> deserves to be.

Yea! before it gets towed away! (oops, that's another thread).

> After all, like Pat says... "We are FTE!" (even if some of us ARE a bit
> less savvy.)

All together now, chant after me . . . :-)
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:06:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine paint

Stu, and a bunch of other people, have been writing about #205
Ford Blue.

So, I assume it (#205) is a stock number. Whose number? Ford? Krylon?
I just want to make sure I don't paint my parts the wrong blue -
although I did just paint a Ni$ engine ford blue :-)
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:11:46 -0800
From: "Wiltzius, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Header gaskets ; hard starting while hot

Hi all,
a couple of quik questions-

Just got the exaust system on my truck done and the guy said I need header
gaskets as versus manifold gaskets.
The engine is a 360 with headers not the cast iron FE manifolds. What gives?
Any enlightenment appreciated.

The starter cranks slowly after engine has been run awhile almost like a run
down battery, but after it sits awhile cranks real well.
I know this has been discussed in the past but I cannot rememberr the
answers.

Thanks
Tom
Reno,NV
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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 15:27:57 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Header gaskets ; hard starting while hot

>Just got the exaust system on my truck done and the guy said I need header
>gaskets as versus manifold gaskets.
>The engine is a 360 with headers not the cast iron FE manifolds. What gives?
>Any enlightenment appreciated.
>
You can actually use the manifold gaskets just as well as the header
gaskets. The manifold gaskets will be all one piece, the others are
individual ones for each port. The header gaskets are thicker, so they may
claim they seal better, but you will be replacing them often if you don't
keep them tight. I have the same problem with stock manifolds and stock
gaskets, but not every 6 months like before ...

>The starter cranks slowly after engine has been run awhile almost like a run
>down battery, but after it sits awhile cranks real well.
>I know this has been discussed in the past but I cannot rememberr the
>answers.
>
Could be a couple of things ... first off with headers you have more heat
in the starter, that's a bad thing, wears them out quicker and will cause
this. I never experienced this, so the other thing to check is the timing,
if you're running advanced timing it will crank harder... this would
probably only be really noticeable after probably 15deg or so of initial
advance. I know my mom's 351W has always done this, even with a new
starter and only 6deg of advance ...it seems to be a characteristic of the
old 351W's (we've had 3 that did that anyway), but the 360's I've heard of
no such thing ..


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 16:27:22 EST
From: Brazzadog aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Pitman arm

I had the same problem with the standard puller on my '78 F-250 4wd. I used a
cheap little 3 jaw puller from WalMart, heated the pitman arm with a propane
torch and did some light hammering. Actually, got good at it since it took 3
tries to get a rebuilt steering box that worked correctly.

Ben Williams
'78 F-250 4wd

>
>Anybody know of an easy way to pull a pitman arm? I've tried two different
>sized three jawed pullers and this darn thing won't come off.
>
>There is a specific tool called a pitman arm puller available at most
>places that rent automotive tools. Works good.

>The over the counter pitman arm puller isn't wide enough to pull the pitman
>arm on my 1977 F250 4wd. Snap On has a puller that will yank that pitman
>arm faster than you can say shazam! Unfortunately, the Snap On puller is
>kinda on the pricey side!
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:24:11 -0800
From: "sam weatherby"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Header gaskets ; hard starting while hot

>The starter cranks slowly after engine has been run awhile almost like a
run
>down battery, but after it sits awhile cranks real well.
>I know this has been discussed in the past but I cannot rememberr the
>answers.


Heat is the problem...
Exactly how depends. Verify battery is good.
Check all the cable connected to the battery, solenoid and starter.
If they are all fine your starter may be nearing the end of it's life.
-srw

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