61-79-list-digest Friday, March 5 1999 Volume 03 : Number 076



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Spare tire carriers
Re: FTE 61-79 - P.S. and Alternator Brackets
FTE 61-79 - Re: Oil and Milk. Part II.
FTE 61-79 - FE Shorty Headers in 4x4's
FTE 61-79 - Re: FTE was 79 upgrades - now 302/FE valve covers
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Shorty Headers in 4x4's
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: FTE was 79 upgrades - now 302/FE valve covers
Re: FTE 61-79 - to the m-block devotee (dave)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Oil and Milk. Part II.
FTE 61-79 - Good paintshop in Houston?
FTE 61-79 - steering box lubricant
FTE 61-79 - 429 Heads
FTE 61-79 - glass glue?
FTE 61-79 - Re: Glass Glue
Re: FTE 61-79 - Milk and oil. Yum!
FTE 61-79 - Re: Electrical shocks at truck body
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Electrical shocks at truck body
FTE 61-79 - Y-Block memories
FTE 61-79 - Milk your FE, make a friend for life.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Spare tire carriers
FTE 61-79 - '74 F-100
FTE 61-79 - Re: Keep that Y! & Y-Block Memories
Re: FTE 61-79 - glass glue?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 429 Heads
FTE 61-79 - Re: other engines - FT blocks
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Electrical shocks at truck body
FTE 61-79 - Re: Knob - Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Y-Block memories
Re: FTE 61-79 - 429 Heads
Re: FTE 61-79 - to the m-block devotee (dave)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Electrical shocks at truck body
FTE 61-79 - Emisions Label

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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 15:44:26 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Spare tire carriers

This may sound rather odd, but after looking through all the cool 4wheeling
stuff a lot of you guys and the jeep guys can do, I was wondering about the
spare tire and jerry can carriers. They don't have a lot of practical
application in my area, but it would get the spare out of the bed so I
wouldn't have to worry about it moving (on its own or with help) .... has
anyone put one of these on a full size truck before ? I just had a brain
storm that said I could probably use the post hole in the back as a top
mount for a hinge. I'm looking for ideas on what the design should be able
to do, and what kind of interest there is in this ? I'm also hoping to
keep my stock bumper, just for the sake of keeping it looking stock ...


Is there a company out there that makes a good rack I could model or modify ?




Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
96 Mustang GT
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html

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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 16:55:39 -0500
From: "Brent_Cole"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - P.S. and Alternator Brackets

The aluminum spacer tubes are on just about all of the ford v8s I have
worked on 302, 351WM, and 460s. It is OEM

Brent





Brad Smith on 03/04/99 04:25:17 PM

To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
cc: (bcc: Brent Cole/Federal-Mogul)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - P.S. and Alternator Brackets




My question is about the mounting brackets for alternator and P.S. on Big
Blocks. My 429 came out of a 72 Galaxie, but I am assuming Ford used the
same mounting brackets for the 460 for at least several years around that
period. Anyway, my brackets have aluminum tube like spacers behind them.
Is this OEM or has someone put these on here to keep the belts aligned? I
would lobe to find the right brackets if these are not the right ones. I
would love any info.
Helpful hint when tensioning Alt. belt - On the 78's (at least the 4X4's)
there is small (3/4") access hole in the frame that you can stick a
screwdriver through, and get on one lip of the alternator. The retainer
bolt is right down there, so you can tighten it up and be done, real quick
like. No more looking for something to pry against!

Brad - 78 F-150 4X4 429

The two best times to go fishing are when it is raining, and when it is
not...
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 17:12:46 -0500
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Oil and Milk. Part II.

Oh gurus.
Thanks to everyone for their replies...
I will change the oil/milk tonight and
see how the oil looks in the future. It is 15
miles to work each way, so I'm not having a
problem getting the engine up to operating temp.
Likewise, I haven't had any trouble with it
overheating and the coolant has remained
level (not that it should take much coolant to
make milk..*Moooo!*).

If my oil change reveals something (a hidden
udder), I'll let cha all know. Likewise, if
the milk returns, I'll build up my
back muscles for the dreaded "FE intake lift."

Ohio Bill
1968 Torino GT (429 4V 4speed)
1968 F100 (360 4V 4speed)
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 17:20:05 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Shorty Headers in 4x4's

Quick, seems like we went through this already, but does anyone know of
someone who makes shorty headers for the FE's in 4x4's?

I've contacted a few manufacturers on the web already, the only close response
was Ford Powertrain in Washington. They said they have a set that were
designed for a Galaxie, but a few guys are trying them in their trucks to see
if they fit. They should know more in a few weeks.....

I tried Hedman, JB Racing, Thorley and Stan's. Haven't tried Hooker yet....any
other leads????

CJ
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 16:21:21 -0600
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: FTE was 79 upgrades - now 302/FE valve covers

At 10:36 AM 3/4/99 -0600, you wrote:


>>www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/6725/index2.html



If you got time you ought
>>to check it out, it'll take a few minutes to load but it is worth it. And in
>>the last picture, I took off those "Power By Ford" valve covers off cause
>>they sit lower than the original ones that had the Ford oval stamped on the
>>top. They started knocking and i figured out what it was and i was gonna put
>>the original ones back on and i compared them and was amased at how taller
>>the ones with the oval on them were. Hope ya'll like and I'll talk to ya
>>later,
>>
>So you were running FE valve covers on a 302 ? Does that work the other
>way ? Anyone know ? Can I actually get cheap 302/351 valve covers to put
>on my 390 ???

Bill,

Those are definitly small block valve covers and *not* FE valve covers.
Anyone want a pair??
I have a nice set form a 302 I parted out a few months back. They look
exactly like the ones in the URL above.
Bill, If you need FE valve covers, I have a nice factory set off a 69
Mustang GT 390 chromed!!!!

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 16:27:58 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Shorty Headers in 4x4's

>I've contacted a few manufacturers on the web already, the only close response
>was Ford Powertrain in Washington. They said they have a set that were
>designed for a Galaxie, but a few guys are trying them in their trucks to see
>if they fit. They should know more in a few weeks.....
>
Yeah we were told that too ... I have some contact information (sorry I
haven't gotten it to you yet mark) of a guy who was installing them on his
67 ... I'll try and dig that up and call him or pass the info along to you
guys ..

>I tried Hedman, JB Racing, Thorley and Stan's. Haven't tried Hooker yet....any
>other leads????
>
Nope, the only one's I've found were at FPA ... doesn't mean they're not
out there, just that I haven't found them yet ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 16:29:57 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: FTE was 79 upgrades - now 302/FE valve covers

>Those are definitly small block valve covers and *not* FE valve covers.
>Anyone want a pair??

Okay Stu, I figured you would know :)

>I have a nice set form a 302 I parted out a few months back. They look


>Bill, If you need FE valve covers, I have a nice factory set off a 69
>Mustang GT 390 chromed!!!!
>
Hmmmmm ...... how much are you askin ? (email me off line maybe) ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 15:32:33 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - to the m-block devotee (dave)

Subject: FTE 61-79 - to the m-block devotee (dave)
>
>ive got a 77 f150 351m400 I believe the engine
>is not original to the truck how do i find out
>what year it actually is where do i find the #'s
>on the block ???

Yo Mark:

The casting numbers on M-blocks are located by the last two cylinders on the
right side of the block. If you look just above the starter, you should be able
to find them. (You may have to use a wire brush to find them if any crud has
accumulated there.) If the block was originally from a truck, the casting
number will be D7TE-A2x. I have seen A2A and A2B suffixes on truck blocks. Any
other casting number indicates the block was cast as a car block. There are no
significant differences between truck and car blocks.

Unless you have the original engine tags (the emission certification stickers on
the valve covers), there's no way to be certain of the engine's origin. Valve
covers are easily swapped, so even if the engine was original, swapped valve
covers would make it difficult to trace. Since you have an aftermarket manifold
and carb, those won't give you any clues either.

Do you know whether you have a 351M or a 400? The best way to ID the engine is
to look at the crankshaft. The crankshaft casting number is in the edge of the
front counterweight. If yours is 5M, 5MA, or 5MAB, you have a 400. If your
crankshaft casting number is 1K, you have a 351M.

>I have a holley 600ccfm vac sec on eldebrock man
>what else can i do,buy,shave,polish,port,or cut to
>make this 400 scream

Are you going to tear down and rebuild the engine or what? Shaving, porting,
etc. implies that.

Following is my "nutshell" suggestion to getting serious power from an M-block
(w/in reason, i.e., no exotic components or preparations), IMHO, of course:

1. Use a 400, not a 351M. All it takes is a 400 crankshaft and compatible
pistons.
2. Increase the compression ratio from stock (8.4:1) to about 9.0-9.5:1 using
351C pistons. All it takes is bushing the rod to accept the smaller diameter
351C wrist pin. No need to deck (shave) block or heads any more than necessary
to true the mating surfaces.
3. Use a good cam w/ intake duration 0.050" of 210 to 224 degrees, exhaust
duration 0.050" of 218 to 230 degrees, lobe separation minimum 110 degrees,
and gross lift of 0.490" to 0.530". The bigger the duration and lift numbers,
the bigger the power potential. If you go much farther than this, you're into
4V head territory w/ no guts down low.
4. Use the Edelbrock Performer EGR #3771 intake manifold for emissions legality
and better intake breathing.
5. Very (very) mild porting on the stock M-block or 351C 2V head. Just "clean
up" the intake/exhaust ports, smooth the bumps, and polish combustion chambers
(not mirror-like, just smooth). Three-angle valve job, of course.
6. Clean up factory exhaust manifolds or use tri-Y headers. A decent shorty
header might be ok too.
7. Use 400+ cfm 2V carb or 600-700 cfm vacuum secondary 4V carb.

The bigger the cam numbers, the more significant benefit to improving the
intake/exhaust breathing. However, even a small carb and stock exhaust
manifolds will produce surprising amounts of power from a good cam.

>what heads should i keep my eyes out for at
>the bone yards? are the clevland heads better
>than the modifieds theres lots of trucks out there

The M-block heads are virtually identical to the 351C 2V heads. Some people
claim the Cleveland 2V heads flow better, and some books show a slightly smaller
combustion chamber size for the 351C 2V heads, but the port sizes and valve
sizes are the same for both 351C 2V heads and M-block heads.

Most 335 series heads have an identifying mark on the upper corners of the
heads, just above the upper corners of the valve covers, so they're visible even
w/ the valve covers on. Cleveland heads are identified w/ either a "2" or "4"
indicating 2V or 4V heads. Most M-block heads are identified w/ an "M" mark in
the corners, but some M-block heads have no mark in that location. (I just saw
one of those recently.)

351C engines were never installed in F trucks at the factory. You would have to
look for a '70-'74 car or Ranchero to find a 351C engine.

>someone was talking about dove heads

Those are heads for the 429/460 big block, not the M-block.

> one more thing i feel dumb asking but i dont
>know whats the diff between 2v and 4v heads
>and again whats better for my baby.

The 351C 4V heads have much bigger ports and larger valves (2.19"/1.71" vs
2.04"/1.66") than the 351C 2V heads. The 4V heads also have smaller combustion
chambers than the 2V heads. Smaller chambers would be good for higher
compression, but the ports and valves are so big on the 4V heads that you would
lose all the effective power in your engine below 3K rpm. That is not good for
a truck engine.
Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 16:32:42 -0600
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Oil and Milk. Part II.

>If my oil change reveals something (a hidden
>udder), I'll let cha all know. Likewise, if
>the milk returns, I'll build up my
>back muscles for the dreaded "FE intake lift."

Dr. Clare Waterman is 96 pounds soaking wet and she can lift that rascal
out of there
all by herself!!!! Ohio Bill, don't whimp out on us buddyrow.
Sorry Doc, Couldn't resist we have not heard from you in a while.
Use an engine hoist, it will make it easier.

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu
truck and engine in a billion pieces :(

>
>Ohio Bill
>1968 Torino GT (429 4V 4speed)
>1968 F100 (360 4V 4speed)

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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 16:36:52 -0600
From: "David H. Uhrbrock"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Good paintshop in Houston?

Does anyone know of a good paintshop in the Houston, TX area? I have a '63
with the original paint that badly needs some work.

Thanks.

David Uhrbrock
david.uhrbrock utmb.edu

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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 15:51:12 -0600
From: Gene Gardner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - steering box lubricant

Talking about gearbox and lubricant -- the one on my '70 was leaking oil so
I replaced it with another from the boneyard (which still had some slop).
Then an old-timer told me my box needed grease, not oil, and that was why
the other one leaked the oil. True or false? In any case, I guess grease
would be better than nothing if it were leaking oil and you didn't want to
spend hundreds on a new gearbox.

Gene Gardner, 70 F100 (300 six)
Texican Teacher, Hermosillo, Mexico

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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 18:41:11 -0500
From: Brad Smith
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 429 Heads

If anyone out there can give me some ideas on heads for my truck I would
be happy. Does anyone know if there is a difference between the dove heads
and the PI heads? What kinda RPMs are the stock springs in these heads
capable of handling? I am taking my truck to the dyno in April, and I
surely don't want to float a valve or something worse (like make my clutch
come apart). I need to know what kinda RPMs I should be looking at running
it up to....
Thanks
Brad 78 F-150 4X4 429

The two best times to go fishing are when it is raining, and when it is
not...
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 18:57:31 -0500 (EST)
From: CLARE WATERMAN
Subject: FTE 61-79 - glass glue?

I was wondering if anyone had any advice on what might be the best product
and technique to glue window glass (ie a power butterfly window in my 79
lincoln) firmly and permanently to rubber (ie the window channel). Mine
has come undone and needs repair.

thanks again

clare






Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of North Carolina
Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280

T: (919)-962-2354
F: (919)-962-1625


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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 16:37:00 -0800
From: "Brzezinski, Jeff"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Glass Glue

Most glues used to glue glass to metal are derivitives of
Alpha-Cyano-Acrylate glues, known as Crazy-Glue/Super-Glue. Their bond on
glass to rubber is very strong. I would get the thicker kinds, available at
hobby shops, to give myself more time to seat the glass before it set.

That being said, I would still opt for Aquarium Silicone Cement, to do the
job on your wing window. Especially if you aren't real used to using
alpha-glues. You'll have more time to work, and the joint will be more
vibration-proof.

Jeff
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 17:20:28 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Milk and oil. Yum!

>Here I go again. I'm now getting a white, milky-like
>substance on my FE's oil dipstick.

>2. Is it possible that the water is coming from
>an 'outside' source besides anti-freeze?

Is it loosing coolant? Do you have to add some water to the
rad occasionally? Maybe a leaking head gasket or intake
manifold gasket?
If you're not loosing water from the cooling system, it must
be coming from an outside source...

> I am not
>running PVC now (just one crankcase breather). I
>can't imagine enought water vapor getting into the
>engine (via the breather) and then condensing inside
>the engine.

Hook the PCV back up!
When a gallon of gasoline is burned at stoich (roughly 14.7 lbs
of air for a lb of gas), a good many byproducts are produced.
One of them is water vapour. When the hydrogen part of the
fuel (HYDROcarbons, remember) combines with the oxygen in air,
it produces... (yes, you guessed it!)... H2O!
Roughly *2 gallons* of water for every gallon of gas! Most of
this water goes out the exhaust as vapour so you don't normally
notice it, but on a cold morning it will cool enough to condense
back to water and you can see it drip out the tailpipe.
Blowby gases that get past the rings and into the crankcase contain
plenty of water vapour, and need to be removed by the PCV system or
else a lot of it will condense out in the relatively cool cranckase
and mix with the oil. Once mixed with the oil it is very difficult
to drive the water back out, even if you manage to get the oil temp
*above 212 degrees* for extended periods...

It's important to keep a good supply of fresh air flowing thru the
crankcase to keep all the water and nasty corrosive combustion
byproducts from ending up in the oil.
A good working PCV system will go a long way towards extending
engine life and keeping oil clean.

> I always thought an engine's operating
>tempreture was sufficient to vaporize what little water
>vapor entered the engine. Yes? No?

No. The crankcase temps are rarely above 212F (and if it is, you've
probably got bad trouble!), so much of the water vapour that gets
past the rings as blowby has a good chance of condensing back to
liquid and being mixed with the oil unless you can keep a good
supply of fresh air circulating thru the crankcase to positively
flush out the blowby gases.

Hook the PCV back up. PCV is good. PCV is your friend. PCV will
make your oil and your motor last longer. PCV is a happy thing...



Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

"There are no stupid questions... only stupid people."

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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 17:39:54 PST
From: "MARTY COLMAN"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Electrical shocks at truck body

I've been following your thread about your pickups shocking you, and I
have a question for you all. I often get a shock from mine, especially
when I'm getting out and reach to close the door. The door gives me a
big shock. Would that be a shorted wire, like you were saying for
yours? It happens very regular, whether it is wet or dry out, almost
like a big static shock. I only get one and that's it, until the next
time I'm getting out. Any ideas? Thanks.

Marty Colman
73 F100 390

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 21:32:42 -0500
From: David Wadson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Electrical shocks at truck body

>I've been following your thread about your pickups shocking you, and I
>have a question for you all. I often get a shock from mine, especially
>when I'm getting out and reach to close the door. The door gives me a
>big shock. Would that be a shorted wire, like you were saying for
>yours? It happens very regular, whether it is wet or dry out, almost
>like a big static shock. I only get one and that's it, until the next
>time I'm getting out. Any ideas? Thanks.

Stop wearing wool sweaters and get rid of the polyester seat cover. :-)

Couldn't resist...it could quite easily be a static shock from sliding
across the seat...


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS2" - 78 F100/302/C4


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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 22:03:09 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Y-Block memories

>
> Indeed, even more reason to keep the Y alive since you have a spare.
> I've got a spare Y-block on my engine stand too that I'm gonna hotrod a
> bit. I've got an old Offy tripple-duece intake to go with a HD crank,
> C0TE heads, ... still looking for 3 Strom 97's......
> ARRR!> I haven't started tearing this engine down, tho, since I've
> still been concentrating on my truck. Good luck with yours and keep in
> touch. Us Y-block guys (and gals?) gotta stick together lest we'll get
> run over by the M, W, and 460 folks! ;-D


My first mechanical memories are learning to set the valves on my old
man's '55 Fairlane. He had a 312 with set of the ECZ heads on it, with
pop-ups that gave it 12 to 1 compression and what they used to call a
3/4 race cam, made by none other than Isky and a 4 barrel Holley. He
was one of the few running headers on the old stuff, with cut-outs he
could pop off in less than two minutes. When it was tuned just so with
the valves right it would sit there and go blup blupa blup blupa blup
blupa ... but you could hardly feel a shake to it at all. You don't
forget a sweet engine like that, I was only 8 years old when I set them
"solo" the first time. You did it running, idling as low as you could
and you'd slip the feeler guage in and out and set it by what I can best
desribe is by feel, both the gauge and the way the engine is running.
I'm sure he went behind me a week later while I was in Sunday School and
re-did them, but man I was proud of myself. 1968, the muscle cars were
taking over, and the hot fifties stuff was starting to dissappear. I
still dream of doing a '55 Fairlane two tone green Club Sedan someday
with a hot Y-Block or an FE.
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 22:15:07 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Milk your FE, make a friend for life.

> B/c it's an FE, I know the waterpump hasn't worn thru the timing
> cover to form a leak, so I know that isn't the problem.
> Am I missing some other source of water (provided it is water in
> my oil, and not FE milk).

Usually if you have a bad head gasket you'll smell a kind of a
formaldehyde smell in the exhaust, and the oil will look like
calf-s*it. No PCV and short trips will build moisture in the crankcase,
no doubt about it. If you have a breather in one side and the other
side wide open it will make a lot of moisture, and even more if one side
is open and the other completely blocked. Why not rig up a PCV and
change the oil just for poot and giggles. Then you'll know
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 23:14:44 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Spare tire carriers

you're in luck, i have a bronco spare tire carrier, i was thinking of doing
the same thing. but my priorities have changed, and i'll sell it for what i
have in it 45.00
let me know if you are interested. it is missing the part that bolts to the
tailgate, but it can be fabricated.

jeff grant
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 20:40:45 PST
From: "A G"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '74 F-100

Could anyone please tell me what the fair market value would be on a
1974 F-100 Supercab? The interior is in perfect shape, minor
imperfections on the exterior, 2WD, V-8 (don't know the ci yet). I've
located one in the LA/MS area and they are asking $2750. Not sure if
this a steal, ripoff, or right on the money. Any assistance would be
appreciated.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 20:30:44 -0800
From: "Brzezinski, Jeff"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Keep that Y! & Y-Block Memories

Ok, Ok! You guys are Poets and don't know-it! I'm keeping the 292 in my new
1963 F-250.

Heck, my first trucks had 'em. I remember my 1959 F-100 had 80 pounds of oil
pressure, and was always busting the cheap after market guages. When I sold
it, and later the 1955 F-100 Panel truck, they were none the worse for my
teen-aged abuse.

Also, Eric, you're right. I have one dash-knob that still has the insert,
and it's off-white plastic. These knobs reminded me of the ones on my old
60-63 Falcons, and they had aluminum inserts.

Jeff
1963 F-250 Utility
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 23:39:57 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - glass glue?

i recently did this on a 69 mustang, i was told to use the RTV clear silicone
sealant and adhesive, the key to success is cleaning the old glue from the
window and channel, i scraped it all out of the channel and then used a new
1/4" thick 4 1/2" grinding rock, chucked it up in my drill and ground out the
rest of it, and then i bead blasted it to give it a rough surface. i was told
to beadblast the bottom of the glass, but i was afraid to, so i used sand
paper and scuffed it up real good, and then glued it together, you better make
sure its on right, because when it dries its there.
on the mustang, when you roll the window down the glass hits on a rubber
stop, i am going to put hose clamps on the guides for stops, this way the
clamps act as a stop just before the glass hits the factory stop.

good luck,
jeff grant
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 23:28:50 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 429 Heads

there is alotof difference in the pi and the dove heads, the pi heads have
bigger ports, and valves but oddly they also have bigger combustion chambers.
the pi heads have screw in studs,guide plates, spring seats and stamped steel
rocker arms. the dove head has screw in studs, but no guide plates or spring
seats, i've heard that the bosses have to be cut down some to use the good
rocker arms, studs etc. their ports and valves are still a decent size and the
smaller chambers will boost compression a little. the dove are more plentiful
and cheaper approx 100.00 junk yard price, if you find the pi heads D2OE-AB
you'll probably pay minimum of 250.00 unless you're lucky.
the dove heads will work great on a street engine or bracket racing engine.
exhaust porting is a must to make these heads work. if you're building an all
out race engine where high rpm horsepower is needed go with the pi head, but
still port the exhaust side. for a more serious engine you can pay about
500.00 for a set of 429cj heads, but you still need to port the exhaust side.
these don't make much low to mid range power, but they sound impressive.

jeff grant
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 20:47:06 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: other engines - FT blocks

wish wrote:
> Just did some research and found out my 390 is based on the FT
> motor, got the backwards cast 105 in the front of it, ......

Hey, now there is another thing that makes our trucks similar,
mine is an FT block also.

> Does anyone know if the V on the bottom of the driver's side
> water pump mout in the block is an FT thing ?

I looked at mine and can't find anything that looks like a V.
Is it in a place where you can see it with the water pump on
the motor?


Mark in Southwest Washington
www.pacifier.com/~draco
- --
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab

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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 20:36:32 -0800
From: "Brzezinski, Jeff"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Electrical shocks at truck body

>I often get a shock from mine, especially
>when I'm getting out and reach to close the door. The door gives me a
>big shock. Would that be a shorted wire, like you were saying for
>yours? It happens very regular, whether it is wet or dry out, almost
>like a big static shock. I only get one and that's it, until the next
>time I'm getting out. Any ideas? Thanks.

>>>Stop wearing wool sweaters and get rid of the polyester seat cover. :-)



Isn't that what those J.C.Whitney/Pep Boys funky ground-straps are for???


Jeff
1963 F-250 Utility
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 21:50:06 -0800
From: "Jim Cron"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Knob - Question

John,

The sliding door in the driver's side vent assembly is made with an
extension that sticks through the slot in the vent housing and forms the
handle. It is one piece with the sliding door and easily broken off by
people that slide the vent with their foot as I used to do. That plastic
gets pretty brittle after 20 years. I removed the vent assembly (have to
remove the e-brake pedal assembly first) and bolted a wire loop to the door
that sticks through the slot. Works fine for me, since I am very cheep. I
don't know if new vent assemblies are available but you won't find the knob
as a separate piece imho.

Jim
somewhere near Seattle

'74 F250
'67 F100
'65 F600
all with 390 (or 391)

>Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 18:12:40 -0600
>From: "John R. Austin"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Knob - Question
>
>Does anyone happen to know what the know on the driver's side vent control
>for a '67 F100 looks like? I can't seem to find it listed in any of the
>various catalogs.
>Thanks,
>John




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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 21:44:22 -0800
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Y-Block memories

Bill:

I appreciated your early memories of Y blocks. I, too, cut my teeth
on Y blocks. I started with a '55 Ford P/U that my Dad had me install
a 312 and a truck 4 speed in to have lugging power (granny gear) and
pure power (312). I then personnally owned a '54 Ford with a 292
transplant, a 56 Ford Wagon, a 56 2dr Hdtop and later while in college
I restored a '56 Ford P/U with a stock 272.

Setting those valves was fun, I remember that I tended to get oil all
over the exhaust manifolds. The only problems I had with the Y block
was with the OH valve oiling system, but I installed the auxillary
oiling system that was a common accessory item.

Now I'm into FE's with my '63 Galaxie, '63 Tbird, and 71 F100. But
the Yblock memories are strong!

Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 00:51:07 -0500
From: Brad Smith
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 429 Heads

At 11:28 PM 3/4/99 EST, you wrote:
>there is alotof difference in the pi and the dove heads, the pi heads have
>bigger ports, and valves but oddly they also have bigger combustion chambers.
>the pi heads have screw in studs,guide plates, spring seats and stamped steel
>rocker arms. the dove head has screw in studs, but no guide plates or spring
>seats, i've heard that the bosses have to be cut down some to use the good
>rocker arms, studs etc. their ports and valves are still a decent size and
the
>smaller chambers will boost compression a little. the dove are more plentiful
>and cheaper approx 100.00 junk yard price, if you find the pi heads D2OE-AB
>you'll probably pay minimum of 250.00 unless you're lucky.
> the dove heads will work great on a street engine or bracket racing
engine.
>exhaust porting is a must to make these heads work. if you're building an all
>out race engine where high rpm horsepower is needed go with the pi head, but
>still port the exhaust side. for a more serious engine you can pay about
>500.00 for a set of 429cj heads, but you still need to port the exhaust side.
>these don't make much low to mid range power, but they sound impressive.
>
>jeff grant
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>
>
I don't really want to go with the CJ or SCJ heads, because I still want
some low end. How different are the 460 heads? I know that they are
interchangable, but as far as I know they actually used at least some of
the same heads... The problem I am experiencing is bog! I feel like I am
getting too much fuel, but no evidence in the spark plugs of running rich.
Maybe I will take your advice, and port the exhaust side. I simply shaved
the heads when I removed them, so maybe I need to pull em again and do some
porting. Thanks for the advice, and any info on 460 heads would be
appreciated!

Brad - 78 F-150 4X4 429
The two best times to go fishing are when it is raining, and when it is
not...
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 23:40:06 +0000
From: "MARK DAVIES"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - to the m-block devotee (dave)

Dave, I, up to today thought i had a 400 the valve cover says 351m400
engine family below it say 351m cid guess i didnt look hard enough
before but whos to say that its original covers on that engine whats
the diff between the 351m-400 besides stroke are the cranks diff? and
heads? cam is, anything else really i just want to wake this thing up
the most i wind the truck up to is 5000rpm then im at the next set
of stop lites i thought of headers,cam,carb,intake, and a little bit
of head work which headers you suggest blackjack,hooker,hedman? are
you saying stick with the 2v heads for the low end power 2000-5000
rpm the manifold i have is a eldebrock if memory serves me its # is
S.P.-2-P.400 whatver that means the top of it is split down the
middle and open on each sideon the decal on the valve cover it says
D7TE-9C485-BUB is this #good for any id or is just the valve cover
part # it also says non egr US ford heavy duty engine 1977
standards i didnt look on the block to find the # due to -25 deg
celcius weather and its 11:30 at nite, neighbors alredy think im
baked guess the dont like guys setting up a carb in the middle of the
night.. thanks alot dave for the vast amount of knowledge youve
already shared with me and the many others...Mark Davies
1970 somethin ford 351m400 maybe, camper special.
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