FTE 61-79 - Re: New Process or Borg Warner?

61-79-list-digest Tuesday, March 2 1999 Volume 03 : Number 071

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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Re: New Process or Borg Warner?
FTE 61-79 - Snarling, Slobbering 400M
FTE 61-79 - remove
FTE 61-79 - Borg Warner Poping out of third
Re: FTE 61-79 - "Bronco Graveyard"
FTE 61-79 - carburetor rebuild
FTE 61-79 - For Sale: '69 4v 351W heads
FTE 61-79 - fuel tank replacement
FTE 61-79 - 460 - Big ProBlems!
FTE 61-79 - Instructor comments
RE: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box
FTE 61-79 - more carb.
FTE 61-79 - WD 40
FTE 61-79 - RE: 78 Steering Gearbox
Re: FTE 61-79 - Barden Bumper, More & 1 FS
Re: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box
Re: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box
RE: FTE 61-79 - more carb.
Re: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box
Re: FTE 61-79 - For Sale: '69 4v 351W heads
FTE 61-79 - Truck continues to run with Ignition off
FTE 61-79 - steering and gearbox
Re: FTE 61-79 - For Sale: '69 4v 351W heads
Re: FTE 61-79 - fuel tank replacement
RE: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box
Re: FTE 61-79 - WD 40
Re: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box
FTE 61-79 - Re: '67 f-100 360 camshaft
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: '67 f-100 360 camshaft
FTE 61-79 - 79 4x4 resto
Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 4x4 resto
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: '67 f-100 360 camshaft
Re: FTE 61-79 - more carb.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Carburetor or What ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 - Big ProBlems!
Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 4x4 resto
Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 4x4 resto
Re: FTE 61-79 - For Sale: '69 4v 351W heads
Re: FTE 61-79 - For Sale: '69 4v 351W heads
FTE 61-79 - 67 F100 for sale
FTE 61-79 - proportioning valves
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 connecting rods
Re: Re: FTE 61-79 - DurasparkII into 69F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - proportioning valves
Re: FTE 61-79 - more carb.
Re: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: '67 f-100 360 camshaft
RE: FTE 61-79 - For Sale: '69 4v 351W heads
FTE 61-79 - Re - DurasparkII into 69F100
FTE 61-79 - First Post: My New 1963 F-250 Utility
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 - Big ProBlems!

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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 07:22:10 EST
From: TBeeee

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: New Process or Borg Warner?

I had posted an address for anyone who wanted to see scans of the top covers
for a Warner (T-18) and New Process (NP-435) 4-spd truck transmissions as a
quick way to id the two. Unfortunately, the images didn't load if you went
to the page. The problem is now fixed FWIW.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/Trans-Types.html

or if you prefer:
Types.html">Transmissions

~~Thom B~~
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm

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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 06:54:37 -0600
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Snarling, Slobbering 400M

>
> i heared dat, roush is a rite smart feller. i saw a 400 with a few additives (
> cleveland
> 4v quench chamber heads, moderate bumpstick,intake,carb and headers) run with
> 460's and 454's in mud trucks and on the drag strip. i know the first question
> i'm going to be asked is what kind of intake with the 4v heads? i don't know!
> but i think there used to be a spacer kit to use a 351 cleveland intake on a
> 351m or 400. if anyone wants to try it i have 4v heads and an intake for sale.

I've always thiught that if I wanted to build a "take no prisoners"
"small-block", I'd take a 400M and bore it out and sleeve it to 4.100
inches, get a set of Carillo Rods, and a set of forged flat-tops that
come to zero deck. And use those nasty old "quench chamber" 351C 4V
heads with a 290d .650 lift (very quick opening and closing) roller cam.
You could fabricate a sheet metal "Rat Roaster" style (big plenum)
intake with a 1050 Dominator, using the mounting base (hog out the
ports) of the stock intake. Do you think low-end power would be a
problem? hehehe. Who cares? That would be one bitchin' bullet.
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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 08:04:59 +0000
From: William E Shannon
Subject: FTE 61-79 - remove

remove from list

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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 08:14:37 -0500
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Borg Warner Poping out of third

Mark Campbell writes: >>Can anyone help me with this Borg-Warner 4 sp question.
When I down shift to 3rd, and let the truck slow down in the gear, the shifter
will eventually pop out of gear,

Most likely culprit is the Syncronizer.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 08:23:57 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - "Bronco Graveyard"

J.S.H. wrote:
>
> "I saw an add in a catalogue for "JEFF'S
> BRONCO GRAVEYARD", was just wondering if anyone had any experience with
> them??? "
>

I have ordered a couple small parts from them. They were the only
place that had factory new wedge blocks that bronco's use on the rear
springs. No problems with product or delivery.

OX
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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 05:40:23 PST
From: "eldon eversull"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - carburetor rebuild

>>I don't know if I have the
guts to take the carb apart and clean out the dirt I'm sure got there
from the bottom of my old gas tank or should I take it back to the
garage and pay them $200 to do the job for me ? I would like to fix it
myself if possible - any advice from the list ?

Dane,

I don't know if your carb is to blame, but I rebuilt my Holley last
year and it made a world of difference. It didn't exhibit the same
problems you mention, but on start, if it idled, it would go. If it ran
rough on start, it had no power and wasn't going to go anywhere. I
bought a haynes manual on Holley's, a rebuild kit for my 700 cfm 4v, and
a spade bit to take out the bolts from Sears. I screwed it to two wood
blocks for a stand and tore it apart. It was pink inside, apparently
from being cleaned with atf and all the rubber parts were eaten up.
There was also a quarter inch of sludge in both the primaries and
secondaries. It took about 2 hours and I used about a can of carb
cleaner. For about $50 for the above items, it has run great for two
years. I also installed 2 of the see through fuel filters, one before
the fuel pump, and change or clean them often.

Eldon, 64 f100

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 09:10:13 -0500
From: frenz.6

osu.edu (Dale Frenz)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - For Sale: '69 4v 351W heads

I have a pair of '69 Windsor heads that I need to move. They're all fancy
with screw-studs, guide plates, fresh valve job, and new CompCam springs,
hardened seats, bronze guides, et el. They've been run for about 500-1000
miles and are still shiny and clean. I'd like $375 for them. I'm willing to
pack and send them anywhere on God's green earth. We can arm wrestle over
the shipping charges.

Thanks,
Dale Frenz
Columbus OH
frenz.6

osu.edu

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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 08:07:10 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - fuel tank replacement

>>WHOA! A tank full of fumes will explode much more easily than a tank
plumb full of fuel. The best thing is to get it empty, then fill it full
of water, forcing any fumes out of the tank. It will be heavy, but the
fumes are the dangerous factor, here.
Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

Liquid gasoline will not burn at all, but vaporuos gasoline explodes very
easily. I, however, would not put water in a gas tank on purpose for any
reason. I've pulled many a tank in the manner I described and I haven't
blown one up yet. I always disconnect the electrical system and I do not
smoke.

- -John

jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!

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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 09:25:55 -0500
From: cannandale

netpointe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 - Big ProBlems!

Ok, since I figured out that it has to be a ring problem on my 460, low
compression on one cylinder. Whats next? I said b4 that i re-built it,
but not really, i did everything but ring it because I didnt want to pull
the engine. I checked the compression b4 i pulled the heads to get them
re-worked, and checked the cylinder walls for scartching, but there wasnt
any. I gues the big question is, do I have to get ir bored to re-ring it?
I know i dont have to, but do I need to? Most ppl I have talked to said
that its not to common to have an engine that dosent need to be bored when
doing rings, but others have said as long as the cylinder walls arent
scatched its ok.

Ok, if i dont have to bore it, then what? Hone the cylinder out and take
the ridge off?

I guess what im really trying to do is save money, college, part-time job,
ack!

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460

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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 08:23:57 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Instructor comments

Joe,

I never meant to imply that your instructor was not knowlegeable about
engines or anything else. To me an "I don't know" answer or "we won't be
covering that in this class" is far better than rigging something up to get
by. Temporary rigging is generally unsightly and in some instances down
right dangerous. Learn all you can about those engines. A good mentor is
hard to find.

- -John

jlagrone

cinergy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box

> ----------
> From: terry love[SMTP:tlove2

tampabay.rr.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 5:03 AM
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box
>
> the problem i've got is the steering and gearbox for my 1978 f100 is
> completely shot. i'm in dire need of replacement
> Thanks for listening
> T-Man
>
Terry,

I'm parting out a '77 F-150 2wd with power steering/power brakes.
Everything in front of the firewall is for sale (cheap!!). Maybe someone on
the list knows if these parts are interchangeable with your truck?

Tracy
Cincinnati, OH

You can reach me at tracyjones

cinergy.com if interested.

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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 08:53:22 -0500
From: "Rusty Nail"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - more carb.

As long as we've been on the subject of the 400 the last few days, I thought
I'd ask the advice of any of you m-block gurus on 4v carbs for the 400. I
have a performer intake I'm going to put on in the near future and would
like any tips or advice on carb selection, spacers, etc.

Rusty in KC
'77 Expl.,400

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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 09:52:59 -0500
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - WD 40

Stu writes: >>Used it frequently starting diesel engines on
gasoline/diesel barges years ago when we were out of ether.

And that is precisely why I do not spray it around the engine compartment with
the engine running, - It is very flammable. I don't recommend anyone else
spraying it around their engine compartment either.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 09:53:58 -0500
From: "Parsons, Raymond"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 78 Steering Gearbox

>> Kind people bare with me my first time posting to the group.
the problem i've got is the steering and gearbox for my 1978 f100 is
completely shot. i'm in dire need of replacement
i've spent hours on the phone to salvage yards and nobody seems to have one
on hand......i was almost tempted to sell the old truck because of the
problem getting parts....But no way it's become a part of the
family..........any help or suggestions, or anyone knows where i can find
Thanks for listening T-Man

I found that most drive line specialist may be able to help in rebuilding
steering gearboxes; here in Denver we have Drive Line Specialists, they deal
mostly with large commercial trucks but will do same day service on steering
gearboxes for around $400. They did mine and I could not be happier as it
only took 1 day.
Ray
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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 15:00:30 -0000
From: "Jeff Carver"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Barden Bumper, More & 1 FS

These bumpers wrap around the bed very tightly, so I pose a question,
as a response to the request. It (& I) are in the Sacramento area.

Is the contour at the bumperline of a bed on a '65 similar enough for it
to work on a '71? I suspect not, but I don't know. Whatcha think?

There is less than 1/4" spacing between the bumper and the bed
with a rubber gasket between them.

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab
** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **
Jeff, I'm looking for a rear bumper for my 71 F250; the original owner did not
buy one. Tell me more about it, and where is it located? I am in Prattville, AL.

Get your FREE Email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mailcity.lycos.com
Get your PERSONALIZED START PAGE at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://personal.lycos.com
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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 10:03:39 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box

terry love wrote:
>
> Kind people bare with me my first time posting to the group.
> the problem i've got is the steering and gearbox for my 1978 f100 is
> completely shot. i'm in dire need of replacement
> i've spent hours on the phone to salvage yards and nobody seems to have one
> on hand......i was almost tempted to sell the old truck because of the
> problem getting parts....But no way it's become a part of the
> family..........any help or suggestions, or anyone knows where i can find
> one please
> let me know.............
>

Is it 4WD and/or power steering? No one had them for my 78 Bronco
because they cost 280+$ to get a rebuild. The cores are usually worth
100$. Any of the yards can get rid of them as soon as they get them. The
yards also get a lot for them and you will probably get one in as bad of
shape as the one you have. It bites, but the best option is getting a
rebuild with a lifetime guarantee. This is what I finally broke down and
did after going through 4 used boxes.

OX
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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 10:26:22 -0500
From: cannandale

netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box

I had the same problem on my f250 4wd. the junk-yard wanted close enough
to the price on a re-built with a life-time that it was dumb to get a used
one. I also had to buy the pitman arm, so i ran my a total of around $500
or so, i dont remeber..

cannandale

At 10:13 AM 3/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>terry love wrote:
>>
>> Kind people bare with me my first time posting to the group.
>> the problem i've got is the steering and gearbox for my 1978 f100 is
>> completely shot. i'm in dire need of replacement
>> i've spent hours on the phone to salvage yards and nobody seems to have one
>> on hand......i was almost tempted to sell the old truck because of the
>> problem getting parts....But no way it's become a part of the
>> family..........any help or suggestions, or anyone knows where i can find
>> one please
>> let me know.............
>>
>
> Is it 4WD and/or power steering? No one had them for my 78 Bronco
>because they cost 280+$ to get a rebuild. The cores are usually worth
>100$. Any of the yards can get rid of them as soon as they get them. The
>yards also get a lot for them and you will probably get one in as bad of
>shape as the one you have. It bites, but the best option is getting a
>rebuild with a lifetime guarantee. This is what I finally broke down and
>did after going through 4 used boxes.
>
>
>OX
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>

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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 10:11:51 -0500
From: "John MacNamara"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - more carb.

I believe the autolite 4100 carb is the best carb ever built. they are hard
to find but very simple and easy to rebuild. I have one for a big block
and a small block that I'm saving. I think JJGrant has some he might sell.

Thanks
John MacNamara

805 577 2536 wk
805 577 2768 fx
805 526 3464 hm
ESN 495-2536
jmacnam

nortelnetworks.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Rusty Nail [SMTP:rnail

mmgworldwide.com]
> Sent:Tuesday, March 02, 1999 5:53 AM
> To:ford post
> Subject:FTE 61-79 - more carb.
>
> As long as we've been on the subject of the 400 the last few days, I
> thought
> I'd ask the advice of any of you m-block gurus on 4v carbs for the 400. I
> have a performer intake I'm going to put on in the near future and would
> like any tips or advice on carb selection, spacers, etc.
>
> Rusty in KC
> '77 Expl.,400
>
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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 06:45:15 -0900
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box

Hey Ox.. I know we talked about options for a re-built box
but............Where did you end up getting yours? And if ya don't mind....
How much?

Thanks

Erik Marquez
78 Bronco
bronco78

mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
bronco78 on the BB chat

- -----Original Message-----
From: James Oxley
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 6:11 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box

>terry love wrote:
>>
>> Kind people bare with me my first time posting to the group.
>> the problem i've got is the steering and gearbox for my 1978 f100 is
>> completely shot. i'm in dire need of replacement
>> i've spent hours on the phone to salvage yards and nobody seems to have
one
>> on hand......i was almost tempted to sell the old truck because of the
>> problem getting parts....But no way it's become a part of the
>> family..........any help or suggestions, or anyone knows where i can find
>> one please
>> let me know.............
>>
>
> Is it 4WD and/or power steering? No one had them for my 78 Bronco
>because they cost 280+$ to get a rebuild. The cores are usually worth
>100$. Any of the yards can get rid of them as soon as they get them. The
>yards also get a lot for them and you will probably get one in as bad of
>shape as the one you have. It bites, but the best option is getting a
>rebuild with a lifetime guarantee. This is what I finally broke down and
>did after going through 4 used boxes.
>
>
>OX
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>

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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 10:07:24 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - For Sale: '69 4v 351W heads

Dale Frenz wrote:
>
> I have a pair of '69 Windsor heads that I need to move.

Are the 4V heads any different than 2V heads?

OX
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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 11:03:50 -0500
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck continues to run with Ignition off

Apsrky writes: >> Further checking revealed that the radio, heater, turn
signals, wipers, fuel guage, oil pressure guage, water temp guage all didnt work
with the key off and the engine running. Next I checked to see if the alternator
was charging with the key off, and yes it was working just as per normal. I am
at a loss as to what is causing this problem. Any ideas as to what I am missing?
If I cant figure it out I will just add a "kill" switch in the igniton coil
ground circuit, but i would really like the ignition switch to work as it is
supposed to.

I'm going from memory here, and sometimes that "Ain't too good"..
The two small wires going to the starter solenoid on the fender well of the
passenger side -- Have you changed them lately????. I got them crossed once on
something I owned and I had the same problem you describe. I reversed them and
solved the problem.. Hope yours is as simple...

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 09:41:46 -0600
From: "Michael Ray Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - steering and gearbox

>Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 05:03:40 -0500
>From: "terry love"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box
>
> Kind people bare with me my first time posting to the group.
>the problem i've got is the steering and gearbox for my 1978 f100 is
>completely shot. i'm in dire need of replacement
>i've spent hours on the phone to salvage yards and nobody seems to have one
>on hand......i was almost tempted to sell the old truck because of the
>problem getting parts....But no way it's become a part of the
>family..........any help or suggestions, or anyone knows where i can find
>one please
>let me know.............
> Thanks for listening
> T-Man

Terry - If it helps, I was able to buy a rebuild kit for my gearbox for
about $18. I didn't rebuild the thing, I just needed one o-ring, but the
kits are out there for a reasonable amount.

Good luck

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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 10:05:40 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - For Sale: '69 4v 351W heads

>> I have a pair of '69 Windsor heads that I need to move.
>
> Are the 4V heads any different than 2V heads?
>

Yes, the 4V heads are much more desireable, well rare anyway, they have
bigger valves and a higher compression ratio ... not sure now that I think
about it that the compression ratio is from the head and not the piston,
but it could be.

Don't suppose anyone has the manifold to go with them ?

Bill
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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 11:05:46 EST
From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - fuel tank replacement

In a message dated 99-03-02 09:17:08 EST, you write:

of water, forcing any fumes out of the tank. >>

Our HS autoshop class had to take a Taurus tank and cut it down by half, so we
hooked a piece of the flexible exhaust tubing to the tail pipe of a lil honda,
and just forced all the fumes out with exhaust. Worked great, no BOOM. We
used the Honda because it was the cleanest burning in the class, (no unburned
fuel) and it also had the coolest exhaust gas temp. Most of us were driving
old V8s, so it made the best choice.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 09:08:48 -0700
From: Steve Tymchyshyn
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box

Hey Erik,

It is quite easy to re-build your stearing box on your own. Up here in
Edmonton, Alberta Canada, there is a shop specializing in steering
components. I was able to buy a rebuild kit for $40 canadian. It included
all the teflon rings and seals that tightened her up really good.

Unless you have some major scars on the piston or the shaft, any backyard
mechanic can take on this project without needing any special tools.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Erik Marquez [SMTP:bronco78

mosquitonet.com]
> Sent:Tuesday, March 02, 1999 8:45 AM
> To:61-79-list
> Subject:Re: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box
>
> Hey Ox.. I know we talked about options for a re-built box
> but............Where did you end up getting yours? And if ya don't
> mind....
> How much?
>
> Thanks
>
> Erik Marquez
> 78 Bronco
> bronco78

mosquitonet.com
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
> bronco78 on the BB chat
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Oxley
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Date: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 6:11 AM
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box
>
>
> >terry love wrote:
> >>
> >> Kind people bare with me my first time posting to the group.
> >> the problem i've got is the steering and gearbox for my 1978 f100 is
> >> completely shot. i'm in dire need of replacement
> >> i've spent hours on the phone to salvage yards and nobody seems to have
> one
> >> on hand......i was almost tempted to sell the old truck because of the
> >> problem getting parts....But no way it's become a part of the
> >> family..........any help or suggestions, or anyone knows where i can
> find
> >> one please
> >> let me know.............
> >>
> >
> > Is it 4WD and/or power steering? No one had them for my 78 Bronco
> >because they cost 280+$ to get a rebuild. The cores are usually worth
> >100$. Any of the yards can get rid of them as soon as they get them. The
> >yards also get a lot for them and you will probably get one in as bad of
> >shape as the one you have. It bites, but the best option is getting a
> >rebuild with a lifetime guarantee. This is what I finally broke down and
> >did after going through 4 used boxes.
> >
> >
> >OX
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 11:10:46 EST
From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - WD 40

In a message dated 99-03-02 10:04:18 EST, you write:

with
the engine running, - It is very flammable. >>

Dont say that Az! Ive used it several times for finding stubborn vacuum
leaks, just spray the suspected areas, if the idle changes PRESTO found the
leak. Maybe they should call it Cure All.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 07:29:52 -0900
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box

Thanks Steve.. Rebuilding is an option I will under take once I have the
cash and supplier for the rebuild....Just incase things do not go as planed.
Either because of a mistake on my part or the box simple turns out to be un
repairable.

Erik Marquez
78 Bronco
bronco78

mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
bronco78 on the BB chat
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Tymchyshyn
To: '61-79-list

ford-trucks.com'
Date: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 7:23 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box

>Hey Erik,
>
>It is quite easy to re-build your stearing box on your own. Up here in
>Edmonton, Alberta Canada, there is a shop specializing in steering
>components. I was able to buy a rebuild kit for $40 canadian. It included
>all the teflon rings and seals that tightened her up really good.
>
>Unless you have some major scars on the piston or the shaft, any backyard
>mechanic can take on this project without needing any special tools.
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Erik Marquez [SMTP:bronco78

mosquitonet.com]
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 8:45 AM
>> To: 61-79-list
>> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box
>>
>> Hey Ox.. I know we talked about options for a re-built box
>> but............Where did you end up getting yours? And if ya don't
>> mind....
>> How much?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Erik Marquez
>> 78 Bronco
>> bronco78

mosquitonet.com
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
>> bronco78 on the BB chat
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: James Oxley
>> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
>> Date: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 6:11 AM
>> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - steering and gear box
>>
>>
>> >terry love wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Kind people bare with me my first time posting to the group.
>> >> the problem i've got is the steering and gearbox for my 1978 f100 is
>> >> completely shot. i'm in dire need of replacement
>> >> i've spent hours on the phone to salvage yards and nobody seems to
have
>> one
>> >> on hand......i was almost tempted to sell the old truck because of the
>> >> problem getting parts....But no way it's become a part of the
>> >> family..........any help or suggestions, or anyone knows where i can
>> find
>> >> one please
>> >> let me know.............
>> >>
>> >
>> > Is it 4WD and/or power steering? No one had them for my 78 Bronco
>> >because they cost 280+$ to get a rebuild. The cores are usually worth
>> >100$. Any of the yards can get rid of them as soon as they get them. The
>> >yards also get a lot for them and you will probably get one in as bad of
>> >shape as the one you have. It bites, but the best option is getting a
>> >rebuild with a lifetime guarantee. This is what I finally broke down and
>> >did after going through 4 used boxes.
>> >
>> >
>> >OX
>> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>> >
>>
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 09:56:36 -0700
From: John & Iva McKay
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: '67 f-100 360 camshaft

My newly installed 360 needs a new cam. (it's a long story)
Since the original was a 352, what do i ask for when
ordering a new cam ? any help out there ? anything to
watch out for during the install ? it seems pretty
straightforward.....
- --
John L. McKay
Mesa, Arizona
'67 F-100 Custom Cab 360
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~djspaints/ford.htm
Email: djspaints

earthlink.net
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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 11:00:20 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: '67 f-100 360 camshaft

>My newly installed 360 needs a new cam. (it's a long story)
>Since the original was a 352, what do i ask for when
>ordering a new cam ? any help out there ? anything to
>watch out for during the install ? it seems pretty
>straightforward.....
>--

Sounds like a good time to upgrade the cam if you want ... but I'd go for
something that increased my torque a bit, but whatever you want for a cam
should be do able ... just ask for whichever cam you like best, maybe ask
for the specs on each then you can decide from there ... the local machine
shop may even remember what works good with those ... I just got the cam
for mine, but mine's a 4x4 and 390, it seems heavy to me, but the guy at
the machine shop swears by it, maybe some one in your neck of the woods has
a good idea ...

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 10:39:13 -0700
From: "B.T.A.K"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 79 4x4 resto

I am starting a frame-up restoration on my 79 F150 4x4, since I have not
owned this truck very long I have a few questions...

1) The front end of the truck sits a few inches lower than the back, and the
back has a 3 inch block between the axle and the leafsprings. Is the front
end low because of sag in the springs or is it just the way it came from the
factory new? Will new springs level the truck or do i need something else

2) The truck has the single shock setup on the front, what is the largest
size tires that can be put on without any clearance problems. Will those
BFG 33x12.5R 15 fit?

3) Are the left and right radius arms interchangeable?

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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 11:44:09 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 4x4 resto

>I am starting a frame-up restoration on my 79 F150 4x4, since I have not
>owned this truck very long I have a few questions...
>
>1) The front end of the truck sits a few inches lower than the back, and the
>back has a 3 inch block between the axle and the leafsprings. Is the front
>end low because of sag in the springs or is it just the way it came from the
>factory new? Will new springs level the truck or do i need something else
>
Just did this to my truck (installed new springs), got the dang thing
levelled right out ... its pretty easy too, if you want some info send me
an email ...

>2) The truck has the single shock setup on the front, what is the largest
>size tires that can be put on without any clearance problems. Will those
>BFG 33x12.5R 15 fit?
>
Probably, I was runnin 31x10.5's with no problems at all ... the BFG's tend
to run a touch smaller than their indicated size from what people tell me,
I'm sure someone else on the list knows better what will fit and what won't.

>3) Are the left and right radius arms interchangeable?
>
*shrug* I would think so (though they may be upside down from each other)
... just out of curiosity why do you ask ? If you've already got them off,
then part numbers should be visible, if they have the same part numbers
then they are interchangeable....

Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 11:57:28 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: '67 f-100 360 camshaft

John

Believe it when they tell you for breaking in your new cam

to start your engine and rise it to a certain

rpm and run it there for x min. This is very important. Even if its running

rough. Many new cams have become history because this was not done.

At 09:56 AM 3/2/99 -0700, you wrote:
>My newly installed 360 needs a new cam. (it's a long story)
>Since the original was a 352, what do i ask for when
>ordering a new cam ? any help out there ? anything to
>watch out for during the install ? it seems pretty
>straightforward.....
>--
>John L. McKay
>Mesa, Arizona
>'67 F-100 Custom Cab 360
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~djspaints/ford.htm
>Email: djspaints

earthlink.net
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 11:43:08 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - more carb.

> From: Rusty Nail [SMTP:rnail

mmgworldwide.com]
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - more carb.
>
> I'd ask the advice of any of you m-block gurus on 4v carbs for the 400. I
> have a performer intake I'm going to put on in the near future and would
> like any tips or advice on carb selection, spacers, etc.
>
> Rusty in KC
> '77 Expl.,400

Yo Rusty:

Any decent quality square-bore 4V carb rated for 600-750 cfm should work
reasonably well. My personal preference is for the Edelbrock or Carter AFB
style carbutetors rather than Holley 41xx types. In general, the E-brocks and
Carters are easier for the amateur to maintain and tune, but I have recently
learned that their transition circuits are not as well designed as the Holley's,
and they tend to wobble between rich and lean under some conditions. This
deficiency is probably not significant for 90% of any normal street usage,
though.

>From:"John MacNamara"
>Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - more carb.
>
>I believe the autolite 4100 carb is the best
>carb ever built. they are hard to find but
>very simple and easy to rebuild. I have
>one for a big block and a small block that
>I'm saving. I think JJGrant has some he
>might sell.

I agree about the quality of the 4100, but I have heard that you can no longer
get the little plugs that go in the ends of the drilled passages for the 4100.
Unless you remove and replace those little plugs, it's hard to do a good job of
cleaning and overhauling the carb. If you check around w/ Ford perfromance
engine builders, they are not hard to find. The 4100's only real drawback is
that it was never rated for more than 600 cfm.
Dave R. (M-block devotee)

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 15:51:13 -0500
From: Brad Smith
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Carburetor or What ?

At 09:12 PM 3/1/99 PST, you wrote:
>
>Last week I ran out of gas (the gauge doesn't work) in my 77 f150 with
>400M and now the car is acting up. I'm driving down the freeway and
>every thing is fine. Then the engine cuts out and all power literally
>gone. It might then backfine, choke a few times, and then it will be
>running fine again for a while before it cuts out again. I have replaced
>the fuel filter - I think it has been sitting there for a long time and
>needed replacement. The fuel pump was replaced less than a month ago by
>my mechanic when he put a rebuild engine in. I don't know if I have the
>guts to take the carb apart and clean out the dirt I'm sure got there
>>from the bottom of my old gas tank or should I take it back to the
>garage and pay them $200 to do the job for me ? I would like to fix it
>myself if possible - any advice from the list ?
>
>I think someone else asked the same question a few days ago, and I wish
>I had saved the message and replies.
>
>Thanks,
>Dane
>
>
>
>______________________________________________________
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
Sounds like the carb to me... But $200 is pretty darn high to clean the
carb. Lots of time there is crap in the bottom of the tank and when it
runs that low it will get up into the carb. Also, if it has been
backfiring you might want to check (or just replace) the power valve in the
carb. I have blown a half a dozen of those suckers in older model carbs
without power valve protectors. Bad p-valve will make it run really rich,
but i'd say you should definately start with a good cleaning! Good luck...
Brad - 78 F150 4X4 429
The two best times to go fishing are when it is raining, and when it is
not...
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 16:04:08 -0500
From: Brad Smith
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 - Big ProBlems!

At 09:25 AM 3/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Ok, since I figured out that it has to be a ring problem on my 460, low
>compression on one cylinder. Whats next? I said b4 that i re-built it,
>but not really, i did everything but ring it because I didnt want to pull
>the engine. I checked the compression b4 i pulled the heads to get them
>re-worked, and checked the cylinder walls for scartching, but there wasnt
>any. I gues the big question is, do I have to get ir bored to re-ring it?
>I know i dont have to, but do I need to? Most ppl I have talked to said
>that its not to common to have an engine that dosent need to be bored when
>doing rings, but others have said as long as the cylinder walls arent
>scatched its ok.
>
>Ok, if i dont have to bore it, then what? Hone the cylinder out and take
>the ridge off?
>
>I guess what im really trying to do is save money, college, part-time job,
>ack!
>
>cannandale
>'78 F250 4x4, 460
>
>
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>
>
There is more too it than checking the cylinder walls for scratches. You
need to mic the cylinder out, because it can be oversized, or even out of
round. If you can get away with honing the cylinder you will save alot of
money, but I doubt that will happen. I've got a 78 also with a Big
Block... Shouldn't be that hard to pull the motor, but I hope you've got
something else to drive for a while, because those machine shops can take a
while. It really is a good opportunity to replace bearings, freeze plugs,
and seals... Good luck!
Brad 78 F150 4X4 429
The two best times to go fishing are when it is raining, and when it is
not...
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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 16:12:08 -0500
From: Brad Smith
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 4x4 resto

At 10:39 AM 3/2/99 -0700, you wrote:
>I am starting a frame-up restoration on my 79 F150 4x4, since I have not
>owned this truck very long I have a few questions...
>
>1) The front end of the truck sits a few inches lower than the back, and the
>back has a 3 inch block between the axle and the leafsprings. Is the front
>end low because of sag in the springs or is it just the way it came from the
>factory new? Will new springs level the truck or do i need something else
>
>2) The truck has the single shock setup on the front, what is the largest
>size tires that can be put on without any clearance problems. Will those
>BFG 33x12.5R 15 fit?
>
>3) Are the left and right radius arms interchangeable?
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
The front end is lower from the factory. I put a 2" spring lift on the
front of mine, and now the front end sits probably 1/2" higher than the
rear. The blocks in the rear are factory equip. too. I also run BFG
33X12.50 15's and I have enough clearance to stick my head between the tire
and wheel well. You should be able to run these tires without lifting your
truck, but if you are going to replace the springs, might as well get a few
inches out of em!

Brad
78 F150 4X4 429

The two best times to go fishing are when it is raining, and when it is
not...
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 13:52:11 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 79 4x4 resto

>
> >3) Are the left and right radius arms interchangeable?
> >
> *shrug* I would think so (though they may be upside down from each other)
> ... just out of curiosity why do you ask ? If you've already got them off,
> then part numbers should be visible, if they have the same part numbers
> then they are interchangeable....
>

Yes, they are interchangable. If you swap a different cap onto a
different arm (to add quad shocks), you may end up with an incorrect
spacing between the front and rear holes of lower spring pad mount.
There is at least two different hole spacings on the lower spring pad
mount. I swapped the passenger side cap to add quad shocks and had to
drill out the lower spring pad mount holes. You can also passenger side
arm on drivers side to get the rear/lower shock mounts on both sides.
The two other upper shock mounts are unique and can not be stloen from a
non-quad shcok truck.

OX
>
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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 13:28:16 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - For Sale: '69 4v 351W heads

William S Hart wrote:
>
> >> I have a pair of '69 Windsor heads that I need to move.
> >
> > Are the 4V heads any different than 2V heads?
> >
>
> Yes, the 4V heads are much more desireable, well rare anyway, they have
> bigger valves and a higher compression ratio ..

What are the valve sizes?

OX
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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 16:05:24 -0600
From: "John R. Austin"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - For Sale: '69 4v 351W heads

I saw an ad in local paper for 67 F100 telephone truck for $1200. Don't know
one thing about it but if anyone's interested, I'll give you the phone
number.
This is in the Fort Worth, Texas area.

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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 16:06:29 -0600
From: "John R. Austin"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 67 F100 for sale

Oops. Had the wrong subject line, sorry.

I saw an ad in local paper for 67 F100 telephone truck for $1200. Don't know
one thing about it but if anyone's interested, I'll give you the phone
number.
This is in the Fort Worth, Texas area.

Our Savior Lutheran Church
1101 Old Cleburne Road
Granbury, TX 76048
(817) 573-5011
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www2.itexas.net/~oslc/

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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 17:07:14 EST
From: Brazzadog

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - proportioning valves

John wrote:

>I am not saying your friend is wrong, but.......... If your rear brake
>shoes are adjusted correctly and are self adjusting, then when you release
>the brakes the springs pull the shoes against hard metal stops. The only
>way they could put excess fluid back into the line is if they are adjusted
>way too far from the drums. If they return too much fluid to the master
>cylinder, it will simply overflow.
(snip)

I'm not really qualified to argue this stuff since I've been in the info
gathering mode for the last year and haven't really had time to study what
I've got and see if it makes sense before the wrench turning begins. I think
the idea is that if the shoes hit the stops then they are returning too far to
be in optimum position for the next application. I don't think he is
suggesting that too much fluid would be returned to the MC but rather that too
much would be returned for optimum effieciency.

>>>So if you swapped to front discs but kept the DDMC, (rather than
>using the disc MC from the disc donor vehicle which contains no RV) 10 lbs of
>pressure would be kept in the front pistons causing unintended pad to rotor
>contact and resulting in overheated fluid, prematue wear, and hardening of
the
>seals due to heat.
>
>Maybe. The drum/drum MC wouldn't deliver enough volume to engage the discs
>properly. It would take a long time to stop a truck so equipped.

I have to agree with you here. I think it would be a rare combination where
this was not the case. I think my source would agree with you as well, based
on what he learned when he fitted discs to his rear Dana 60. I think the
point was that it was possible with the right combination of parts, not that
it was advisable or easiest.

Ben
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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 17:16:06 EST
From: My427Stang

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 connecting rods

As far as I thought, the 360 rods should be the same, its a pin height issue,
so its the piston thats different. I havent looked at a book, but I am pretty
sure the rods are the same. If you come up short though, fire me an email, I
have a guy interested in a set of 390GT/428 rods, but if doesnt buy them I
have a used set
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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 17:19:21 EST
From: My427Stang

aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: FTE 61-79 - DurasparkII into 69F100

I dont agree on the non grounded box, one of the "field" repairs I did on
rusted trucks was to wedge a screwdriver behind the box to make a good groud,
nine times out of ten, the truck started. A wiring diagram would prove me
wrong, but experience tells me they need to be grounded. If someone has proof
I would love a reply. Thanks - Ross
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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 16:26:14 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - proportioning valves

>>Maybe. The drum/drum MC wouldn't deliver enough volume to engage the discs
>>properly. It would take a long time to stop a truck so equipped.
>
>I have to agree with you here. I think it would be a rare combination where
>this was not the case. I think my source would agree with you as well, based
>on what he learned when he fitted discs to his rear Dana 60. I think the
>point was that it was possible with the right combination of parts, not that
>it was advisable or easiest.
>

This is not quite on topic, but the topic got me thinking, my 4x4 has drums
all the way around, and the master cylinder has always had a huge travel on
it to stop things ... even with the power brakes the pressure has been
higher than I thought it should be ... but I don't mind manual brakes that
much, so the assist not being up to par didn't bother me too much. But now
I'm wondering, do the 4x4 drums have larger wheel cylinders ? This would
make sense logically, but does anyone know for sure ? The reason I ask is
that my pedal travel is way longer than any other vehicle I've driven with
a working master cylinder ... replacing the mc works for a bit, but it
slowly works back to being a longer travel ... Dad noticed I have a 2wd mc,
does the 4wd have a larger piston and reservoir that would change things ?
The cab off of my truck is a 2wd, so when the guy put the cab on he plumbed
it for the mc he had, the 4x4 however has the piping on the other side, so
its just never been changed. If I put the discs on this summer, it
obviously will get swapped out, but I was always a little afraid that I'd
end up with the same problem of a huge pedal travel ... maybe not ...

Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
96 Mustang GT
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html

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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 17:23:36 EST
From: My427Stang

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - more carb.

I would run a 600 vac sec, either Holley or Carter/Edelbrock, I run Holleys,
but we run an Edelbrock on a shop truck and it runs nice too. I always used a
600, even on a real hot FE in my own truck, you just dont need more carb. Just
recently I was reading an article on various Fords and carb requirements, and
even a 460 at 6000rpm only needs 670cfm. I would guess your 400 would never
see that RPM, so even a 600 would be a little extra, but the vac sec are
forgiving, plus any smaller (like a 500) is quite a bit more expensive. So the
short answer is a 600 vac sec, whichever brand you like is a good inexpensive
carb, and probably jetted very close right out of the box.
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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 17:28:36 EST
From: My427Stang

aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: '67 f-100 360 camshaft

Bored today, as you can see by all my other replies. I would pick an
aftermarket hyd cam of about 270 degrees duration and less than .540 lift.
This will run nice in a 360. Try giving Comp cams a call, the new Extreme
Energy cams are nice, they have a quick ramp, but short duration, so it keeps
vacuum up but fills the cylinders a bit more efficiently.

Also, a split pattern cam, more duration on the exh, is very good for an FE
without head porting, the exhaust ports arent great, and if running the stock
manifolds its even worse, so leaving the exh valve open a little longer is a
good idea.
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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 16:55:58 -0600
From: "John MacNamara"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - For Sale: '69 4v 351W heads

The intakes are 1.85 and the exhausts are 1.54 "'s.

Thanks
John MacNamara

805 577 2536 wk
805 577 2768 fx
805 526 3464 hm
ESN 495-2536
jmacnam

nortelnetworks.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From:James Oxley [SMTP:luxjo

thecore.com]
> Sent:Tuesday, March 02, 1999 10:28 AM
> To:61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 61-79 - For Sale: '69 4v 351W heads
>
> William S Hart wrote:
> >
> > >> I have a pair of '69 Windsor heads that I need to move.
> > >
> > > Are the 4V heads any different than 2V heads?
> > >
> >
> > Yes, the 4V heads are much more desireable, well rare anyway, they have
> > bigger valves and a higher compression ratio ..
>
> What are the valve sizes?
>
> OX
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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 14:59:39 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re - DurasparkII into 69F100

My427Stang

aol.com wrote:

> I dont agree on the non grounded box, one of the "field" repairs I did on
> rusted trucks was to wedge a screwdriver behind the box to make a good groud,
> nine times out of ten, the truck started. A wiring diagram would prove me
> wrong, but experience tells me they need to be grounded. If someone has proof
> I would love a reply. Thanks - Ross

All in the name of science....

I ran out to the truck and hooked up the Duraspark box and let the truck run
with the box bolted and unbolted to the truck. I used a cardboard box to keep
the C/M isolated from the truck. Either card board conducts enough electricity
to run the system or it runs with out being grounded. I also held the box away
from the truck by the wires making sure that I was not touching the truck in
anyway.

Not exactly laboratory results I know but should be enough for now.

Don, Have you got the truck running yet?
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

pacific.net

99 Contour SE Sport
63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.

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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 15:47:01 -0800
From: "Brzezinski, Jeff"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - First Post: My New 1963 F-250 Utility

Greetings,
I'm Jeff Brzezinski, from Riverside, CA. My very first truck was a yellow
1959 F-100 I bought for $150 in 1972. A couple of years later, I owned a
1955 F-100 Panel Truck. I called it "The Beer-Wagon," with a mattress in the
back. Now, at age 44, I finally have a house, and I just found a 1963 F-250
Utility Pickup for all the Saturday jobs and my hobbies.

The truck is almost completely original. Original baby-blue paint, all
emblems and knobs, no dents, good grille, bumper and headlight rims. The
only things changed are aftermarket wheels, floor shift lever, radio and
door speakers, and mirrors. I really wanted a utility-bed, and I'm very
happy to have found this truck in such great shape. I love the front emblem
with the thunderbolt going through the gear. Anyone want to see a photo of
my truck? I have some small digital shots I can email.

Driving it is a real wake-up call! This is from when 3/4-ton meant
something! I need to adjust brakes, replace a center-link, and adjust the
pedal-stops back down so I can get my long legs up over the pedals. Until
then, It's a little like aiming a locomotive down the road... fight the
steering-play, shift that long-throw, look ahead and get ready to stop, with
the brakes pulling to the right. Kinda scary. Don't worry, I'm not driving
it any more until I fix those things.

My questions concern engine swaps. I'm thinking (just thinking) about
dropping in a 302 and a C-6 trans. My mechanic friend says I should go with
a 390. Tell you the truth, the old 292's I've had seemed indestructable. I'd
be very happy to learn I could mate-up a modern automatic to the existing
292. I'm not after big power, I just want a little less work when I drive.

What mounts are available? Are there "kits" to help with these conversions?
What are the usual engine/trans combinations being put into Fords from the
early 60's? Have articles been written about this? Anything about parts and
sources would be valuable.

Thanks,
Jeff

PS: Let me know if any of this was way too irritating...

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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 19:13:59 -0500
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