61-79-list-digest Sunday, February 28 1999 Volume 03 : Number 067



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Southern Ontario body panels, emission controls
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Was Comment now Q. about proportioning valves
FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Colors
Re: FTE 61-79 - Adding Cruise Control - Question
FTE 61-79 - The Rain
FTE 61-79 - Re: Comment about proportioning valves
FTE 61-79 - Brake pushrod adjustment - please help
Re: FTE 61-79 - The Rain
Re: FTE 61-79 - Southern Ontario body panels, emission controls
Re: FTE 61-79 - The Rain
RE: FTE 61-79 - Southern Ontario body panels, emission controls
Re: Re: FTE 61-79 - C6 Kick down
FTE 61-79 - 65/66 king bolt set differences?
FTE 61-79 - S/S brake lines
RE: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color - Frivolous Q??? ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - S/S brake lines
FTE 61-79 - C-6 Woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M or 351Clevor?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M or 351Clevor?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake pushrod adjustment - please help
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Comment about proportioning valves
Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6 Woes
FTE 61-79 - NP435 swap?
Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6 Woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Adding Cruise Control - Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - PoWeR SteeRing! ACK!
Re: FTE 61-79 - The Rain
Re: FTE 61-79 - 65 engine/tranny options?
FTE 61-79 - 400 M question ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re. Emissions and major model modifications
Re: FTE 61-79 - 400 M question ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ignition System "Possessed"

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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 08:08:55 -0500
From: "J. A. Knapper"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Southern Ontario body panels, emission controls

I deal with an auto parts supplier in Oakville Ont called Acme Auto.
905-845-4233. (haven't seen any coyotes or road-runners there yet!) They
have a fairly good selection of aftermarket body parts. I've bought cab
corners for a 78 F100 for $20 a side, they fit pretty good. I also
picked up a tailgate for my neighbour for his 81 F100, it cost $65.00. A
little on the light side though, I could carry the gate and the box it
came in under 1 arm!.
David had a question on registering his truck as a 71 or a 78, here in
Ontario emissions testing is just starting and will deal with vehicles
more than 3 and less than 20 years old, so he might not need to worry
about what was on his truck orginally. The only other time anyone is
supposed to check emissions controls is
when the truck is saftey inspected to get it licensed.
There are lots of old Ford here in Southern Ontario, David, most of us
park them in the winter to keep the salt off of 'em!
my 2 cents (Canadian).
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 09:22:20 -0500
From: "John MacNamara"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Was Comment now Q. about proportioning valves

Thanks Stu

Thanks
John MacNamara

805 577 2536 wk
805 577 2768 fx
805 526 3464 hm
ESN 495-2536
jmacnam nortelnetworks.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Stu Varner [SMTP:varners usit.net]
> Sent:Friday, February 26, 1999 5:08 PM
> To:61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Was Comment now Q. about proportioning
> valves
>
> Anyone know the correct part number for a proportioning valve for a 71
> F-100 4x4 drums all the way around???
> Will be puting new brake lines, drums, shoes and prop valve as soon as the
> chasis/truck gets back from the body shop.
> Thanks!
>
> BTW-John MacNamara, Plastikote hi temp engine paint #205 is what I was
> referring to when I said #205. :)
>
> Stu
> NukeGM!
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 08:42:11 -0600
From: "James Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Colors

Regarding all the conversation on "Ford Blue" for engine blocks initiated by
Stu's question:

There has been several comments about different shades of blue. I have spent
time selling coatings and inks to the automotive industry. Stringent quality
control of color as it now exists did not really hit the automotive industry
until the early 80's. At that point automation of color measurement began
to proliferate. I could go on for days about how much all this has ended up
adding to the price of vehicles towards no good end. The point is that until
then, all QC of batch to batch color consistency was just human eye
judgement, and color vision varies all over the board. Even a single
individual's physical ability to perceive color will vary during the course
of the day.
If we knew the whole truth, it would probably be that for years, about
every 2-400 gallons of blue paint there would be a color shift. It would all
be "kinda-sorta" the same color, so, as long as you are in the ballpark, I
would not get too twisted about it.
Now Stu, on the other hand, given his excessively retentive nature,
should have taken his bellhousing before it was cleaned, schlepped it to the
nearest paintstore with a Datacolor spectrophotometer, had the shade of blue
read, then bought several different spary cans of paint, painted some scrap
cast iron, had them read to determine which had the closest spectrographic
footprint, and spent 6 months collecting 6 cans of the same paint with the
same batch number.
hehehe Sorry bub, couldn't resist.

Jim E.



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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 08:51:09 -0600
From: "John R. Austin"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Adding Cruise Control - Question

Thank you. I think. I'm not sure what you said but it sure sounded good.
John
- -----Original Message-----
From: Pat Brown
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, February 26, 1999 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Adding Cruise Control - Question


>John wondered:
>> This is still in reference to cruise control. This thing is supposed to
get
>> its speed signal from the negative side of the coil. They told me to
measure
>> AC voltage at this point. If I'm reading the scale right, it is
developing
>> 20 volts AC. They said that it should be more like 2 volts. Does anyone
know
>> what that correct AC voltage should be. If I am actually developing 20
>> volts, any ideas why?
>
>Well, the neg side of coil should be a square wave from 0 (points closed)
>to 12 volts (points open). It sounds like you're using a multimeter, which
>is most likely calibrated to read RMS volts of a sine wave input. Measure
>a square wave, all bets are off. Measure a square wave with a short duty
>cycle, and things will get really tiny. If you have a true rms voltmeter
>(probably not, unless you paid big money for it), the voltage would read
>12*(percent duty cycle/100%)
>
>I suspect the two volt reading they specify is for their particular
>multimeter, and a short duty cycle electronic ignition.
>
>In summary: Look elsewhere.
>--
>Pat Brown
>Sebastopol, California
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 09:06:17 -0600
From: "John R. Austin"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - The Rain

Talked to a friend last night who asked me to get you folks' input. 1981
F100 that runs well, except when it rains. High humidity-no problem, just
when it's raining. He says even when his lawn sprinkler happens to hit his
truck, it will hardly start. He can splash it through standing water - no
problem. He's replaced plugs, points, rotor, rotor cap. In fact he's just
replaced the engine with a rebuilt 300 - same problem. Any ideas on what he
should try next.



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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 07:44:43 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Comment about proportioning valves

Ben wrote:
> The drum valve is not so much of a proportioning valve is it is
> a means to keep the shoes from backing off too far and then
> needing too much pedal travel to engage the drum. Somehow the
> valve is supposed to keep the shoe very close to the drum so it's
> ready for the next application.

This sounds more like the person was trying to explain what
the valve does for disk brakes. I believe what you are
describing here is the job of drum brake adjusters.

To me what needs to happen at the caliper is for there to be
a small amount of pressure in the cylinder when the brakes are
not applied to keep the pads near the rotor. But not enough
to heat the brakes or wear them prematurely. When the brakes
are applied, fluid needs to flow through the proportioning
valve to the calipers, but when released, the fluid needs to
flow back the other way basically unrestricted so that the
pressure can drop back to the low point.

I guess I am probably thinking about this too much, but I would
like to understand it since I am altering my braking system.

> This makes sense since my vehicle with drum brakes doesn't have
> the brake warning switch in the valve (like all disc brake vehicle
> seem to) even though it has a duel master cylinder.

My truck originally came with drum brakes. The valve does
have the brake warning switch. For all I know, this may be
all it does. It has two lines from the master cylinder coming
in one side and front and rear lines coming out the other side
with the switch between them. Externally it is just a little
brass block.

> If somebody else can't clarify this I could try to get in touch
> with the person who explained it on the other list.

I would appreciate it.

Mark in Southwest Washington
www.pacifier.com/~draco
- -
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab

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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 07:45:57 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brake pushrod adjustment - please help

I need to check the length of the pushrod between the power
brake booster and the master cylinder.

The '74 manual says it needs to protrude .880-.895" from the
face of the booster but this is for drum brakes, I am using
a disk brake master cylinder for '77-'79 4WD 1/2 tons.

If someone has a manual handy could you e-mail me the spec
for this?

Mark in Southwest Washington
www.pacifier.com/~draco
- -
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab

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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 10:50:16 EST
From: Pyrate951 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - The Rain

Check the sensors. I had a car that would die every time it giot wet(was
living in San Diego at the time not Seattle) but it turned out to be the
sensor for the catylitic convereter. It would short out when wet.
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 10:50:39 -0500
From: David Wadson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Southern Ontario body panels, emission controls

>David had a question on registering his truck as a 71 or a 78, here in
>Ontario emissions testing is just starting and will deal with vehicles
>more than 3 and less than 20 years old, so he might not need to worry
>about what was on his truck orginally. The only other time anyone is
>supposed to check emissions controls is
>when the truck is saftey inspected to get it licensed.
>There are lots of old Ford here in Southern Ontario, David, most of us
>park them in the winter to keep the salt off of 'em!
>my 2 cents (Canadian).

Well, I'm up here in Thunder Bay (Northwestern Ontario) and I'm not sure if
the government plans to just have that emissions control in the Toronto
area or the whole province. As for the road salt stuff...I was just down in
Toronot and I can't believe you guys actually have to salt your roads. :-)
Up here is where you get the real snow...managed to get stuck in the back
lane twice this week...blasted 2WD truck. Gets a little bit up ice under
one of the rear wheels and it bogs right down...


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS2" - 78 F100/302/C4


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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 10:53:31 -0500
From: David Wadson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - The Rain

>Talked to a friend last night who asked me to get you folks' input. 1981
>F100 that runs well, except when it rains. High humidity-no problem, just
>when it's raining. He says even when his lawn sprinkler happens to hit his
>truck, it will hardly start. He can splash it through standing water - no
>problem. He's replaced plugs, points, rotor, rotor cap. In fact he's just
>replaced the engine with a rebuilt 300 - same problem. Any ideas on what he
>should try next.

Electrical could be grounding out into the body...do you get a shock when
you touch the wet body? I had that when I blew a radiator hose. Standing
there with the hood up, leaning on the truck cursing at it and wondering
why I felt all tingly. :-)

Use some dielectric grease around the distributor cap. I could actually see
mine shorting out on one rainy day...


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS2" - 78 F100/302/C4


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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 09:50:15 -0700
From: "Miska, Richard L (Rick)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Southern Ontario body panels, emission controls

Is that Canadian dollars? Will they ship to USA? I need lower quarters on
both sides of 1979 bronco. TKS, Rick

snip....



I deal with an auto parts supplier in Oakville Ont called Acme Auto.
905-845-4233. (haven't seen any coyotes or road-runners there yet!) They
have a fairly good selection of aftermarket body parts. I've bought cab
corners for a 78 F100 for $20 a side, they fit pretty good. I also
picked up a tailgate for my neighbour for his 81 F100, it cost $65.00.
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 12:15:01 -0500
From: "Ted & Sarah Freeman"
Subject: Re: Re: FTE 61-79 - C6 Kick down

Steve,

If you don't mind, post your part number and stuff here. Let us know how
easy to install and how well you like it. I'm intrested in doing the same.

Later,

- -Ted
- -----Original Message-----
From: Art Verling
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, February 26, 1999 11:52 PM
Subject: Re: Re: FTE 61-79 - C6 Kick down


>Steve,
>Thanks for the information on my kickdown. I am going to call Summit Racing
on Saturday.
>Art Verling
>AV ix.netcom.com
>64 F100
>
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>

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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 13:25:13 EST
From: EBHecker aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 65/66 king bolt set differences?

Does anybody know the difference between a 65 and 66 (F100/F250) king
bolt set? The catalogs that I have list a different part # for a 65 than they
do for a 66-70. The specs on the bolt itself are identical. Btw, the
difference is not the bushing type, as the part #'s have a suffix to denote
this; ( M = metal B = brass N = nylon,,etc.) Just curious.
Ed
66 F100
86 F250HD 4x4
96 Aerostar AWD
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 13:34:31 EST
From: EBHecker aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - S/S brake lines

I'm about to the point on my 66 restor. to run brake lines. Is stainless
the best way to go? If so, should I stay with the original size? Are there
any tips/tricks to it that will help? The only problem that I ever remember
hearing of was that stainless is a pain to flair. Any help is greatly
appreciated. Thanx.
Ed
66 F100
86 F250HD 4x4
96 Aerostar AWD
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 14:01:31 -0500
From: TracyJones cinergy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color - Frivolous Q??? ?

> ----------
> From: Campbell, Mark[SMTP:campbellme dol.state.fl.us]
> Sent: Friday, February 26, 1999 5:49 PM
> To: '61-79-list'
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color - Frivolous
> Q??? ?
>
> Sorry about that,
> The #205 is in a spray can, I bought the cans I used from Pep-Boys....
>
> Mark
> 1978 F150 Ranger 4X4
>
>
I bought the #205 cans from Pep Boys also. Best spray paint I've ever
used!!
Tracy
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 14:43:40 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - S/S brake lines

In a message dated 2/27/99 1:42:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, EBHecker aol.com
writes:

> I'm about to the point on my 66 restor. to run brake lines. Is
stainless
> the best way to go? If so, should I stay with the original size?

IMHO stainless is the best answer for your brake lines. You should however
stick with original specs unless you are experienced in brake system
modifications. You could end up having inadequate brakes system if not
correctly modified.

I have experience with one company that supplies lines. Classic Tube at
www.classictube.com They will pre-bend, assemble and double flare each line
line to your exact specs including the exact fitting you need (none of that
adapter BS). They have complete sets available for some applications. I am
not sure about all of the Ford Truck lines. You may need to give them
measurements and fitting sizes. Long lines will come bent like a paper clip
for shipping purposes. It is very easy to unbend and contour for your
application. I recently purchased the long line from Pressure Differential
Switch to Rear Brake hose. They are more expensive than steel but look great
and more importantly will not rust out. They also sell the line in 25 foot
coils as well as adapters and fittings, etc. so that you can custom make your
own.

I hope this helps.

~~Thom B~~
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm

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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 15:40:18 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6 Woes

(All) I need help in deciding what to do next. Back in Nov my 18 year old son
took my 1975 F-100 390 4v 2WD out in hills, rocks and sage brush (despite me
telling him in the past this truck was not built for that). Putting a small
hole in one of the tranny cooling lines. He did not make it home before it
quite due to lack of oil. So a day later I went out with him to rescue the
truck. I cut the line and used a piece of fuel line to splice it. Filled it
with oil started it up and topped off the tranny. Put it in gear and it would
not go forward, but would back up just fine. So my thoughts were that one of
the "O" rings that seal the control oil to the forward clutch was damaged. I
used reverse to back the truck a mile or so out to the highway where I was
going to tow it home. Before I shut the truck off I put it in drive and it
worked just fine so I drove it home, and it worked great the rest of the day.
Of course I thought I had lucked out. Not so, the next morning it would not
go forward. The truck sat for a week or two and then I replaced the filter
and oil (beautifully clean inside). At first it still would not go forward
but armed the knowledge that it had worked after the incident I kept trying
and after about a 2 minutes of idling the engine and continuously moving the
shift lever it would go forward just fine. Then I discovered the only time it
would act up is after it sat over night, and if I would just start it and let
it idle for 2 minutes you would never know there was a problem. In the mean
time I have used it almost daily for hauling various things and so has my son.
A couple of mornings ago my son started it put it in drive without waiting and
hit the throttle to about 3 grand and it launched itself with the tries
screaming (maybe my problem is my son, not the truck). However, my problem
and question (that stands a reasonable change of success) is should I rebuild
the tranny now while I've got time (time is relative, I would rather be
working on my other truck) or is this thing going to continue to run forever
as long I give it a 2 minute warm up every morning?? Thanks in advance for
any comments.
Burt Hill Kennewick Wa 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 13:28:19 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M or 351Clevor?

AMEN!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Brandt, Chris
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Friday, February 26, 1999 10:02 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 400M or 351Clevor?


>Can't help but take a shot at old Moses here. First he contradicts himself
>in the book under the camshaft selection section by saying he has found
>excellent towing and economy with the 400 when given the right cam....In
>most truck applications towing and economy are the Holy Grail. Second, his
>"bible" series of books are cookie cutter formula books that the man has
>done for several other brands and it looks like a word processor game with
>the search and replace function, ie remove the word jeep and replace with
>ford... I have followed his stuff for a while now, he is knowledgeabe and
>does offer some good sound advice, but I have trouble trusting a FORD bible
>with JEEP pictures for a bunch of the technical examples ! As far as the
>400M goes take a good look at the configuration of that motor, you have:
> 1. The longest stroke of any readily available Ford.
> 2. One of the best head designs ever offered in a pushrod motor.
> 3. A great rod to stroke ratio.
> 4. Valve sizes that The Ch$%y guys have wet dreams about.
> 5. Relativly light weight for the displacement.



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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 13:31:38 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M or 351Clevor?

Two words: Compression Ratio, Camshaft Selection. (OK, four words)

- -----Original Message-----
From: John MacNamara
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Friday, February 26, 1999 11:30 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 400M or 351Clevor?


>Ted:
>I spent some money back in
>87 to upgrade the 400 with a cam 4bl carb and intake and it worked a little
>better but not good enough for me.



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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 21:41:35 GMT
From: wayside cyberhighway.net (Robert Patelke)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake pushrod adjustment - please help

On Sat, 27 Feb 1999 07:45:57 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

>I need to check the length of the pushrod between the power
>brake booster and the master cylinder. =20
>
>The '74 manual says it needs to protrude .880-.895" from the=20
>face of the booster but this is for drum brakes, I am using
>a disk brake master cylinder for '77-'79 4WD 1/2 tons.
>
>If someone has a manual handy could you e-mail me the spec=20
>for this?
>
>Mark in Southwest Washington
Mark,
My '78 manual sez .931-.946" for all except E350 vehicles
Rob Patelke
Sheridan, Wyoming

'71 F100, 360 T18
'78 F250 4X4, 400, C6
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 17:02:17 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Comment about proportioning valves

In a message dated 2/27/99 4:27:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
draco pacifier.com writes:

> What causes disk brakes to drag if you do not install a disk
> brake proportioning valve? And what does the valve do to
> prevent this?
>
Mark:
The proportioning valve equalizes the operating pressure of the front and
rear system. The master cylinder will output pressure at about 800 psi and
the valve cuts pressure to approximately 550 psi. When the brake pedal is
depressed it puts a certain amount of fluid into the system. When it is
released the same fluid flows back into the master cylinder which relaxes the
brakes. As I understand the problem without a proportioning valve the disc
brakes will drag because the system has put too much pressure into the system
when the pedal is depressed and residual pressure remains trapped in the front
system.

Another common cause of disc drag is caused by improper adjustment of the
pushrod between the booster and the master cylinder. I see from a prior post
that you now have what looks like the correct specs.

I hope this helps. If I have stated anything incorrectly, I hope a "brake"
tech will sound in here to help me out.

~~Thom B~~
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 18:01:10 EST
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6 Woes

In a message dated 2/27/99 12:48:57 PM Pacific Standard Time,
SHill48337 aol.com writes:


son
took my 1975 F-100 390 4v 2WD out in hills, rocks and sage brush (despite me
telling him in the past this truck was not built for that) >>

Well You havent been reading about my adventures have ya? Seriously though,
It sounds like one of the seals for the piston that engages your forward gears
has been worn down. The reason it works is after it warms up, the seals swell
slightly allowing the hydraulic pressure to engage your gear. This is a
common problem on trannys with a LOT of miles on them. Best bet is a rebuild
before it doesnt go into gear at all and you get stuck somewhere.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 19:30:19 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - NP435 swap?

Has anyone replaced an earlier model 435 (say 69-72) with one from say a
76-77? This is in a 1/2 ton 4x4. I'm curious if the drive ratios are about the
same, and also, if the newer was bolted up to a 351/400 would it bolt up the
older FE bell housing?

I'm aware of one difference so far between the newer and older 435's (at least
in the 1/2 ton 4x4's): the bolts for the T/Case adapter are a different
pattern.

CJ
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 22:38:07 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - C-6 Woes

In a message dated 2/27/99 3:10:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,
JUMPINFORD aol.com writes:


though,
It sounds like one of the seals for the piston that engages your forward
gears
has been worn down. The reason it works is after it warms up, the seals
swell
slightly allowing the hydraulic pressure to engage your gear. This is a
common problem on trannys with a LOT of miles on them. Best bet is a rebuild
before it doesnt go into gear at all and you get stuck somewhere.
>>
Darrel,
Yes, did read about your recent tranny adventures. Sounds like you faired
pretty well in the end, but the initial event sure causes the heart rate to
increase doesn't it. At least I do not have shinny things floating in the oil
yet. This is the first time I had heard of this (warm it up and it will work
syndrome) I really appreciate knowing that this happens on high mileage
trannys, mine has 143,000 miles on it. I am familiar with the seals on the
piston for the forward clutch. I have not bought the special tool to compress
that clutch pack, and one of my compressor jury rigs on another C-6 caused me
to cut the outer piston seal during assembly. Luckily I caught the problem
using air on the oil ports prior to complete assembly. Anyway, I guess I will
start gathering up the parts to rebuild it. You are absolutely right I do not
want to get some where and have it quit totally, Thanks. This truck is not my
toy it is the one that I really need as it does all of the practical stuff.
Burt Hill Kennewick Wa 1972 F-250 4x4 460 1975 F-100 390 4V 2WD also
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 23:27:59 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Adding Cruise Control - Question

AC voltage means alternating current, where there is no negative or
positive side of a wire, the voltage is positive, then switches to
negative. Houses run on this, at a 60hz, which means it does this 60 times
a second. When it comes to what you are doing, the distrutor makes and
breaks the connection, so the meter reads it as AC voltage, becase its not
steady, all you have is DC going from whatever voltage to 0 and back again,
it never reverses. DC of course stands for direct current, so it does none
of this. I could go into why it has to pulse for the coil to work and
everything, but... :)

Hope that helps your undertanding a little bit..

cannandale


At 09:57 AM 2/27/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Thank you. I think. I'm not sure what you said but it sure sounded good.
>John
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Pat Brown
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Friday, February 26, 1999 5:25 PM
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Adding Cruise Control - Question
>
>
>>John wondered:
>>> This is still in reference to cruise control. This thing is supposed to
>get
>>> its speed signal from the negative side of the coil. They told me to
>measure
>>> AC voltage at this point. If I'm reading the scale right, it is
>developing
>>> 20 volts AC. They said that it should be more like 2 volts. Does anyone
>know
>>> what that correct AC voltage should be. If I am actually developing 20
>>> volts, any ideas why?
>>
>>Well, the neg side of coil should be a square wave from 0 (points closed)
>>to 12 volts (points open). It sounds like you're using a multimeter, which
>>is most likely calibrated to read RMS volts of a sine wave input. Measure
>>a square wave, all bets are off. Measure a square wave with a short duty
>>cycle, and things will get really tiny. If you have a true rms voltmeter
>>(probably not, unless you paid big money for it), the voltage would read
>>12*(percent duty cycle/100%)
>>
>>I suspect the two volt reading they specify is for their particular
>>multimeter, and a short duty cycle electronic ignition.
>>
>>In summary: Look elsewhere.
>>--
>>Pat Brown
>>Sebastopol, California
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>
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 23:27:47 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - PoWeR SteeRing! ACK!

Seems like they make everything! :) Ill give them a call monday

thanks!
cannandale

At 06:08 PM 2/26/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>L&L Products makes mounts, brackets, and pullies for your set up.
>They are in Rowlett, Texas(NE of Dallas). (972)475-5202
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: cannandale netpointe.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Wednesday, February 24, 1999 11:20 PM
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - PoWeR SteeRing! ACK!
>
>
>>Ill start at the beginning, when I bought my truck, it had a home-made alt
>>bracket that was messed up and always threw belts. After looking for about
>>a week, I found a junkyard around that had a 460 (i didnt know that they
>>were that hard to find). Went and got it, it was on a 70's sumthin e250
>>van. Bolted it on and the pulleys didnt line up, so i went back and got
>>the crank, water pump pulleys and the power steering brackets because it
>>threw it off too. Now the prop is the power steering, the pulleys on the
>>water pump and crank are a quite a bit smaller than the old ones, and it
>>runs the pump too slow to have power steering at idle.
>>
>>Well, I figured that if I drilled out the orfice it might fix it, so I
>>drilled it a total or 3/16", but no help. I cant go with a bigger pulley,
>>because with the new brackets, the pulley is allready about 1/4" away form
>>the gear-box. What do I do? diffrent brackets and another pulley?
>>
>>A/C Brackets?
>>
>>Does anybody have the a/c brackets that will go with this set-up for a york
>>compressor? The van I took this stuff off didnt have a/c anymore, somebody
>>allready got it. If I have to have a diffrent power steering set-up too,
>>then I would like it too. I know that the pulley isnt supposed to so close
>>to the gear-box, but... If you need a pic of what I got, i'll post it
>>the web..
>>
>>The reason none of this stuff fit is because the engine is out of a '73
>>linc cont.... ack! :)
>>
>>Thanx!
>>cannandale
>>'78 F250 4x4, 460
>>
>>
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>
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 23:29:09 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - The Rain

he probally has the 8mm cap, so heres what I did, same problem, go to a
junkyard or something, and get the big water and moisture cover that goes
over the cap, thats the only thing that helped me...

cannandale

At 10:13 AM 2/27/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Talked to a friend last night who asked me to get you folks' input. 1981
>F100 that runs well, except when it rains. High humidity-no problem, just
>when it's raining. He says even when his lawn sprinkler happens to hit his
>truck, it will hardly start. He can splash it through standing water - no
>problem. He's replaced plugs, points, rotor, rotor cap. In fact he's just
>replaced the engine with a rebuilt 300 - same problem. Any ideas on what he
>should try next.
>
>
>
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>


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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 21:47:37 -0700
From: "Jim & Becky White"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 65 engine/tranny options?

Give this a try:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/8824/



> The 2 books I have, one goes up to '72 and the other goes up to '77. The
fun part is that in some cases they contradict each other. Nothing too
extreme, but enough to make you wonder. Sorry I couldn't help.
>
>>
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 22:44:17 -0600
From: "don"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400 M question ?

Well, after reading all the posts on the 400 , it just so happens I happen
to be rebuilding one as we speak. It is a 1971 400 M that was in a Ford
Galaxie apparently and I am putting in my 79 F-150. Looking at the Ford
Engine Workshop, I saw that the motor was stock 260 hp. I have bought a
different cam, a roller chain, and am putting a 650CFM carb on it.
The trouble I seemed to be having is finding an Intake Manifold. The 400
uses the Cleveland 2 barrel heads and these are not easy to but In. man.
for. If ANYONE has any suggestions as to which manifold I should use I would
really appreciate it. So far all I have seen is the Performer manifold , I
wanted the Performer RPM.......
donb ficom.net

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Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 01:08:34 EST
From: Clemstang1 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re. Emissions and major model modifications

No, your a little off i'm in Tennessee close to Nashville. Most of the cities
around Nashville are having to go through emissions, but a lot of the smaller
towns don't have to be tested. Have several friends that have gotten there
tag's in another town!

Jeff
73 F-150 (pro-street) 460
79 F-150 Lariat 460
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 22:30:05 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400 M question ?

Offenhauser makes one for the 400 and Weiand makes an Action Plus for the
400. Both are dual plane like the Edelbrock.

- -----Original Message-----....


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