61-79-list-digest Saturday, February 27 1999 Volume 03 : Number 066



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color - Frivolous Q????
RE: FTE 61-79 - Transmission ID
Re: FTE 61-79 - Adding Cruise Control - Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color - Frivolous Q??? ?
FTE 61-79 - Re: Transmission ID
RE: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color - Frivolous Q??? ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - PoWeR SteeRing! ACK!
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Transmission ID
Re: FTE 61-79 - Adding Cruise Control - Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color - Frivolous Q????
FTE 61-79 - Ignition System "Possessed"
FTE 61-79 - Re: Comment about proportioning valves
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Was Comment now Q. about proportioning valves
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re. Emissions and major model modifications
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Was Comment now Q. about proportioning valves
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Was Comment now Q. about proportioning valves
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Was Comment now Q. about proportioning valves
RE: FTE 61-79 - 400M or 351Clevor?
RE: FTE 61-79 - 400M or 351Clevor?
FTE 61-79 - Re: HELP!!! Fuses Lights, gauges and STUFF!
Re: Re: FTE 61-79 - C6 Kick down
FTE 61-79 - M-Blocks
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: HELP!!! Fuses Lights, gauges and STUFF!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Barden Bumpers
FTE 61-79 - M-Blocks
FTE 61-79 - What kinda truck is it
FTE 61-79 - Blue...Oh So Lonesome For You...
FTE 61-79 - Gas Tank & Fuel Gauge Sending Unit

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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 16:20:51 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color - Frivolous Q????

>I will be getting my engine back from the engine builder (short block) in a
>matter of days and I will need to paint my engine, valve covers, etc. the

Congratulations Stu ... do you have the same engine builder I do ? he's
not doin any assembly and I've still been waiting for over a month ...6th
of Jan I took it in, he was to do the machine work and put in the cam
bearings, balance, and the plugs ... I might get to pick it up tomorrow ...
maybe when its all over I'll thank him lots, just seems like its been more
than "2 or 3 weeks"


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 16:24:19 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Transmission ID

>Can anyone help me with this Borg-Warner 4 sp question. When I down
>shift to 3rd, and let the truck slow down in the gear, the shifter will
>eventually pop out of gear, I'm not a transmission guru, but would like
>a pointer as to where to start looking first. So the question is why
>does it pop out of gear like it does? Maybe this'll help too, the tranny
>has 143,443 miles on it.
>
Just 143,443 miles ? :) Sounds like you've gotten your money's worth out
of it, and it sounds like its just about had it ... the gears have enough
slop in them, that on the way down the shifter is being forced out of gear
by the same thing that holds it in while you're accelerating. At any rate
tightening the linkage may be enough to help it, it could also be a bent
shift fork ( a problem with the 96-98 Cobra/GT's ) ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 16:28:19 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Adding Cruise Control - Question

>This is still in reference to cruise control. This thing is supposed to get
>its speed signal from the negative side of the coil. They told me to measure
>AC voltage at this point. If I'm reading the scale right, it is developing
>20 volts AC. They said that it should be more like 2 volts. Does anyone know
>what that correct AC voltage should be. If I am actually developing 20
>volts, any ideas why?

This sounds pretty interesting, speed from the coil side ? how does that
correct for hills ? Sounds like its just a tach that's going to keep the
engine at the same revs (like the old T cable on the C*vy's of yesteryear) ...

Also 20 volts AC is probably hard to achieve from a 12V DC system, though
since its the discharge and re-charge of a coil it will APPEAR to be AC
since it will be constant then spike, then constant, then spike .. ...
since you're off by exactly 10* what you should have, the engineer in me
would double check the readings on the instrument to see if something's not
set weird (like you're reading tenths of volts (.1) or something ...)


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 16:27:35 -0600
From: "John MacNamara"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color - Frivolous Q??? ?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Campbell, Mark [SMTP:campbellme dol.state.fl.us]
> Sent:Friday, February 26, 1999 2:07 PM
> To:'61-79-list'
> Subject:RE: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color - Frivolous
> Q??? ?
>
> To Stu,
>
> I have used the #205 Blue on two rebuilds, like you said, it comes
> closest to the blue on the block before it's stripped. Maybe the #205
> is the correct shade, and just maybe it'll look right after the paint is
> heated and cooled a few times. Go for it, be careful and try not to let
> the paint run, I got one and unfortunantly it's visible.
>
> Mark
> 78 F150 Ranger 4X4
>
[Mac Namara, John [LAVE:5120:EXCH]] Can I ask what the #205 refers
to. Is this a specific manufacturers part number or is a Ford part number.
Which Store carries this paint? Are we talking spray cans here or paint to
be used in a spray gun? The reason i ask, is I will need to rebuild my 428
in the future and would like the correct paint also.

thanks
John
>
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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 17:35:45 -0500
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Transmission ID

Florida Mark,
From the info I gleaned from Azie's earlier comments on T-10s, I
assume you have an external shifter (ie shifter bolts to side of
tranny. Uses rods to move shifter levers). If you DO have
an external linkage, ensure that the shifter is properly adjusted.
Your "pop outta gear" problem could be due to the shifter not putting
the tranny fully into 3rd gear (my Toploader used to do this in
1st). With tranny in neutral, crawl under truck and look at the
3rd/4th shifter lever. It should be at 12 o'clock (i.e., pointing
straight up). If it isn't, it should be (adjust shifter until it
does).
If the shifter isn't the problem, make sure the tranny hasn't loosened
from the bellhousing and that everything else is tight under there.
If that's not the problem, it's probably time to freshen the tranny up.

Good luck
Ohio Bill
1968 Torino GT (429 4V 4speed)
1968 F100 (360 4V 4speed)


>Hey,
>Can anyone help me with this Borg-Warner 4 sp question. When I down
>shift to 3rd, and let the truck slow down in the gear, the shifter will
>eventually pop out of gear, I'm not a transmission guru, but would like
>a pointer as to where to start looking first. So the question is why
>does it pop out of gear like it does? Maybe this'll help too, the tranny
>has 143,443 miles on it.

>Florida Mark
>1978 F150 Ranger 4X4

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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 17:49:28 -0500
From: "Campbell, Mark"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color - Frivolous Q??? ?

Sorry about that,
The #205 is in a spray can, I bought the cans I used from Pep-Boys....

Mark
1978 F150 Ranger 4X4

- -----Original Message-----
From: John MacNamara [mailto:jmacnam nortelnetworks.com]
Sent: Friday, February 26, 1999 5:28 PM
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color - Frivolous
Q??? ?



> -----Original Message-----
> From:Campbell, Mark [SMTP:campbellme dol.state.fl.us]
> Sent:Friday, February 26, 1999 2:07 PM
> To:'61-79-list'
> Subject:RE: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color -
Frivolous
> Q??? ?
>
> To Stu,
>
> I have used the #205 Blue on two rebuilds, like you said, it comes
> closest to the blue on the block before it's stripped. Maybe the #205
> is the correct shade, and just maybe it'll look right after the paint
is
> heated and cooled a few times. Go for it, be careful and try not to
let
> the paint run, I got one and unfortunantly it's visible.
>
> Mark
> 78 F150 Ranger 4X4
>
[Mac Namara, John [LAVE:5120:EXCH]] Can I ask what the #205
refers
to. Is this a specific manufacturers part number or is a Ford part
number.
Which Store carries this paint? Are we talking spray cans here or paint
to
be used in a spray gun? The reason i ask, is I will need to rebuild my
428
in the future and would like the correct paint also.

thanks
John
>
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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 16:46:59 -0600
From: "CharlesT"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - PoWeR SteeRing! ACK!

L&L Products makes mounts, brackets, and pullies for your set up.
They are in Rowlett, Texas(NE of Dallas). (972)475-5202


- -----Original Message-----
From: cannandale netpointe.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, February 24, 1999 11:20 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - PoWeR SteeRing! ACK!


>Ill start at the beginning, when I bought my truck, it had a home-made alt
>bracket that was messed up and always threw belts. After looking for about
>a week, I found a junkyard around that had a 460 (i didnt know that they
>were that hard to find). Went and got it, it was on a 70's sumthin e250
>van. Bolted it on and the pulleys didnt line up, so i went back and got
>the crank, water pump pulleys and the power steering brackets because it
>threw it off too. Now the prop is the power steering, the pulleys on the
>water pump and crank are a quite a bit smaller than the old ones, and it
>runs the pump too slow to have power steering at idle.
>
>Well, I figured that if I drilled out the orfice it might fix it, so I
>drilled it a total or 3/16", but no help. I cant go with a bigger pulley,
>because with the new brackets, the pulley is allready about 1/4" away form
>the gear-box. What do I do? diffrent brackets and another pulley?
>
>A/C Brackets?
>
>Does anybody have the a/c brackets that will go with this set-up for a york
>compressor? The van I took this stuff off didnt have a/c anymore, somebody
>allready got it. If I have to have a diffrent power steering set-up too,
>then I would like it too. I know that the pulley isnt supposed to so close
>to the gear-box, but... If you need a pic of what I got, i'll post it
>the web..
>
>The reason none of this stuff fit is because the engine is out of a '73
>linc cont.... ack! :)
>
>Thanx!
>cannandale
>'78 F250 4x4, 460
>
>
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>

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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 18:10:29 -0500
From: "Campbell, Mark"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Transmission ID

Ohio Bill,

Thanks man, I'll look at that this weekend.
I'm printing this out so I'll have it when I'm laying on my back.....

Have a GREAT WEEKEND!!!!!

Florida Mark
1978 F150 Ranger 4X4



- -----Original Message-----
From: William King [mailto:kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu]
Sent: Friday, February 26, 1999 5:36 PM
To: 61-79-list
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Transmission ID


Florida Mark,
From the info I gleaned from Azie's earlier comments on T-10s, I
assume you have an external shifter (ie shifter bolts to side of
tranny. Uses rods to move shifter levers). If you DO have
an external linkage, ensure that the shifter is properly adjusted.
Your "pop outta gear" problem could be due to the shifter not putting
the tranny fully into 3rd gear (my Toploader used to do this in
1st). With tranny in neutral, crawl under truck and look at the
3rd/4th shifter lever. It should be at 12 o'clock (i.e., pointing
straight up). If it isn't, it should be (adjust shifter until it
does).
If the shifter isn't the problem, make sure the tranny hasn't loosened
from the bellhousing and that everything else is tight under there.
If that's not the problem, it's probably time to freshen the tranny up.

Good luck
Ohio Bill
1968 Torino GT (429 4V 4speed)
1968 F100 (360 4V 4speed)


>Hey,
>Can anyone help me with this Borg-Warner 4 sp question. When I down
>shift to 3rd, and let the truck slow down in the gear, the shifter will
>eventually pop out of gear, I'm not a transmission guru, but would like
>a pointer as to where to start looking first. So the question is why
>does it pop out of gear like it does? Maybe this'll help too, the
tranny
>has 143,443 miles on it.

>Florida Mark
>1978 F150 Ranger 4X4

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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 15:15:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Adding Cruise Control - Question

John wondered:
> This is still in reference to cruise control. This thing is supposed to get
> its speed signal from the negative side of the coil. They told me to measure
> AC voltage at this point. If I'm reading the scale right, it is developing
> 20 volts AC. They said that it should be more like 2 volts. Does anyone know
> what that correct AC voltage should be. If I am actually developing 20
> volts, any ideas why?

Well, the neg side of coil should be a square wave from 0 (points closed)
to 12 volts (points open). It sounds like you're using a multimeter, which
is most likely calibrated to read RMS volts of a sine wave input. Measure
a square wave, all bets are off. Measure a square wave with a short duty
cycle, and things will get really tiny. If you have a true rms voltmeter
(probably not, unless you paid big money for it), the voltage would read
12*(percent duty cycle/100%)

I suspect the two volt reading they specify is for their particular
multimeter, and a short duty cycle electronic ignition.

In summary: Look elsewhere.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 18:28:27 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - valve cover / engine paint color - Frivolous Q????

In a message dated 2/26/99 4:51:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, varners usit.net
writes:

> I am positive the engine has never been painted or rebuilt since it was new
> so I know the current paint is the factory color.
>
When I last did this I found that Ford Medium Blue is the closest I could
find to original. I bought the high-heat variety marketed under the
Plastikote brand in spray can. It held up well. As one other previous post
mentioned the paint will mellow a little with age and use. Therefore, the
new paint shade will appear lighter than the original. It is important to
prep the block before paint. Hot soapy water with a pressure wash works best.
Several thin coats are best. Less chance for runs and will hold up better
over time.

Good luck on the assembly

~~Thom B~~
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm



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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 15:30:37 -0800
From: sparky mail.island.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ignition System "Possessed"

I think I need an exorcist to fix this problem :) Yesterday I came home
from work shutoff my truck, took out the key and then noticed the truck was
still idling. The only way I could shut it off was to stall it in gear.
Today I went out to replace the ignition switch, which I thought must have
been stuck in the run position. I started the truck and removed the
electrical connector from the switch, and with the switch sitting on the
seat beside me not connected to anything , the truck continued to run. Ok
so it wasnt the switch.
Next thought was that the starter relay was stuck and supplying voltage to
the ignition coil all the time. Removed the small wires from the starter
relay, and the engine continued to purr away.
Then I got out my trusty voltmeter and started fault-finding. There was
voltage at the positve of the ignition coil, truck running ignition switch
removed. Disconnected the coil positive engine died, voltage gone. ????
reconnected the coil still no voltage, restarted the truck voltage back
turned key off voltage still there and engine still going, kinda like the
energiser bunny ..... hhhmmmmm. Disconnected the ground from the coil,
engine died voltage gone. Reconnected the ground still no voltage at
positive terminal.
Then after referring to the Haynes wiring diagram, I disconnected the wire
running from the ignition switch to the voltage regulator, at the
regulator, with the engine running, and engine died. Aha I thought the
regulator was screwed up and somehow finding a path for voltage to the
ignition coil. So I replaced the regulator with a spare one. Started the
truck turned the key off and it continued running ??????
Further checking revealed that the radio, heater, turn signals, wipers,
fuel guage, oil pressure guage, water temp guage all didnt work with the
key off and the engine running. Next I checked to see if the alternator was
charging with the key off, and yes it was working just as per normal.
I am at a loss as to what is causing this problem. Any ideas as to what I
am missing? If I cant figure it out I will just add a "kill" switch in the
igniton coil ground circuit, but i would really like the ignition switch to
work as it is supposed to.
Thanks.
Sparky
73F250 4X4
390FE 2V
"presently possessed by ignition demon"

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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 18:48:13 EST
From: Brazzadog aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Comment about proportioning valves

Mark -

I heard something about this on another list recently but the way it was
explained was hard to follow. Here is what I got out of it. A drum brake
valve will cause discs to drag. The drum valve is not so much of a
proportioning valve is it is a means to keep the shoes from backing off too
far and then needing too much pedal travel to engage the drum. Somehow the
valve is supposed to keep the shoe very close to the drum so it's ready for
the next application. This makes sense since my vehicle with drum brakes
doesn't have the brake warning switch in the valve (like all disc brake
vehicle seem to) even though it has a duel master cylinder. It has always
been my assumption that a vehicle with 4 drums applies equal pressure to each
one. Bear in mind that I'm mostly repeating rumors here. If somebody else
can't clarify this I could try to get in touch with the person who explained
it on the other list.

Ben Williams
'78 F-250 4wd

Mark wrote:

>As a side comment I have been struggling with why disk brakes with a
>drum brake proportioning valve cause the brakes to drag.
(snip)
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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 19:08:28 -0600
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Was Comment now Q. about proportioning valves

Anyone know the correct part number for a proportioning valve for a 71
F-100 4x4 drums all the way around???
Will be puting new brake lines, drums, shoes and prop valve as soon as the
chasis/truck gets back from the body shop.
Thanks!

BTW-John MacNamara, Plastikote hi temp engine paint #205 is what I was
referring to when I said #205. :)

Stu
NukeGM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu
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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 18:09:49 -0800
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re. Emissions and major model modifications

Dennis:

You got that right re: WSP. Although I hear there are some decent
ones scattered throughout the state.

Tim
Burien, WA
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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 21:47:25 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Was Comment now Q. about proportioning valves

In a message dated 2/26/99 8:15:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, varners usit.net
writes:

> Anyone know the correct part number for a proportioning valve for a 71
> F-100 4x4 drums all the way around???

Your application should have a pressure differential switch NOT a
proportioning valve. The latter only applies for systems with disc and drum
brakes. The pressure differential switch acts to keep the two brake systems
isolated and identifies low pressure in either system and "switches" the
warning light on if so. Whereas the proportioning valve allows the two
systems (disc vs. Drum) to properly function together given that they operate
at different pressures.

The part number for the differential switch from 68-72 for F-100 4x4 is C8TZ
2B257-B.

Are you going to go with Stainless lines???


~~Thom B~~
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm

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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 22:14:35 EST
From: OldTrux aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Was Comment now Q. about proportioning valves

In a message dated 2/26/99 9:08:39 PM Central Standard Time, TBeeee AOL.COM
writes:

> The pressure differential switch acts to keep the two brake systems
> isolated and identifies low pressure in either system and "switches" the
> warning light on if so.

I converted to a dual master cyl on my '66 4x4. It has drum brakes all
around. No warning light. Do I need a differential switch? I don't seem to
have a problem without one!
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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 22:32:53 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Was Comment now Q. about proportioning valves

In a message dated 2/26/99 10:22:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, OldTrux aol.com
writes:

> I converted to a dual master cyl on my '66 4x4. It has drum brakes all
> around. No warning light. Do I need a differential switch? I don't seem to
> have a problem without one!
Excellent question. How did you run the lines from your master cyl.? You may
already have the differential switch. It is a brass block that bolts to the
frame and has provisions for two lines in and three out. The wires for the
light connect to this "block." As far as whether you need the warning light:
it only activates when there is a failure in the system and the pedal is
depressed. As you might guess, the brake pedal becomes awfully low/soft if
you lose either the front or rear brake system (God forbid both while
driving). Therefore, how helpful is the light going to be and did you need it
to recognize the presence of the brake failure?? I believe this represents a
liability response by FORD as a result of safety regulations.

~~Thom B~~
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm

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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 20:22:04 -0800 (PST)
From: canzus seanet.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 400M or 351Clevor?

>
>The short comings. most notably the oiling problem,

The 400 my bro and I built 25 years ago to dragrace never did have an
oiling related break down. As with *any* engine, most racers modify
the oiling system. Stock type performance mods, more often than not,
don't require any special attention for the oil system. The biggest
mistake I've seen made is installing high volume oil pumps, can you
say starve the oil pump?? I Knew you could....

Steve & the Rockette
Now dreaming of a 406 for the '63 F100........

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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 20:22:05 -0800 (PST)
From: canzus seanet.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 400M or 351Clevor?

At 11:40 AM 26:2:99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>I don't mean to say the Modifieds & Clevelands arn't good engines for
>a everyday street engine or if built correctly a racing engine. But
>as a performance engine the 351W has it over them as far as the number
>of parts out there for them, as well as the cost differances.

Did you ever think that the availability of performance parts is inverse
to how well the engine performed from the factory?? This would
explain the number of parts available for the Brand X small block.

Steve & the Rockette
Some of us *LIKE* the M-Block.....

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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 20:42:40 -0800
From: Art Verling
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: HELP!!! Fuses Lights, gauges and STUFF!

Have you screwed anything to the underside of you dash lately? On that metal lip at the bottom. What were you doing before this happened?
Art Verling
AV ix.netcom.com
64 F100

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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 20:50:53 -0800
From: Art Verling
Subject: Re: Re: FTE 61-79 - C6 Kick down

Steve,
Thanks for the information on my kickdown. I am going to call Summit Racing on Saturday.
Art Verling
AV ix.netcom.com
64 F100

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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 23:05:47 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - M-Blocks

>
> This is taken from " Ford F-Series Pickup; Owner's Bible" By Moses Ludel
> "The lighter weight 351W engine shares many of Ford's small-block 289/302 features. For increased stamina, the 351W has larger main bearing journals and a more rugged block than the 302/5.0L V-8.
> Ford's 351M/400 modified engines were a unique stop gap design , an attempt to create a large powerplant around the 351W. The 351M/400 had a short history in F-series models. As a truck engine, the 400 could not rival the big block design of the 460 V-8, and Ford soon dropped the 400 from its light truck engine list."
> If I remember right my dad had a '77 supercab that had one in it. He wound up sucking a valve and trashing the whole thing.
> This Moses Ludel slams the 351M/400 a couple of more times in the book. But never really gives any particular problems.
> I think it all boils down to a small block trying to act like a big block and it just can't cut it for the demands of a truck.

The M-block engine made good power in a truck. That was never the
problem. The problem was quality control and thin castings. This is
general to the era and it effected about every engine design in
existence at that time produced in those years. The 289-351's, FE's, the
460's too. GM and Chrysler were just as bad.

If you get one of these vintage engines(not just the M-block either)hot,
they need to be junked. The iron can't stand overheat like an
earlier(or later)casting. They just didn't put the nickel in them and
they trimmed too much casting thickness off of them. The late '70's
weren't good years for any engine. The M-blocks caught hell because
they were put in 3/4 tons and run like a pack mule. Of course they
failed, not from being unable to pull, but from inadequate ability to
deal with heat build-up. When you hurt one, unlike an earlier FE, it was
going to the slag heap. This was true also of many FE's produced
between '75-'77, and a lot of 460's as well. But the M-blocks caught it
the worst. Too bad, because they ran pretty good.
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 00:10:52 EST
From: Kitin10 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: HELP!!! Fuses Lights, gauges and STUFF!

No, nothing new under the dash..What happened is we took the truck in to get
the engine overhauled....It came back Like that. But of course they said they
didn't do anything to any wiring..But when it left here,,,it all worked...
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 00:21:54 -0500
From: Ted Wnorowski
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Barden Bumpers

>
>
> You mean someone else makes these bumpers also? :-)
>

They make them in Oregon too. The tag that's riveted to the bumper says so. I can only make out the first few letters of the name of the town it's in. There's a small hole in the rest of it. My bumper is probably one of those California ones, the truck was built in San Jose.

Ted Wnorowski


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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 23:27:42 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - M-Blocks

> I don't mean to say the Modifieds & Clevelands arn't good engines for
> a everyday street engine or if built correctly a racing engine. But
> as a performance engine the 351W has it over them as far as the number
> of parts out there for them, as well as the cost differances.

The 400M can make good power too. The didn't have a very good piston
for compression. If you got one up to 9 to 1 it would be plenty good
for power, because it can breathe. You need a 4-bbl intake and good
manifolds or headers like any other engine. Cam choice...you see where
I'm going here? Power potential wise it's fine. But if you plan to
generate alot of heat it won't take it as well as earlier designs. The
castings need to be inspected well, you might even consider thin wall
sleeves in the block. The oiling isn't all that bad. If you plan to go
up to 7000 rpms and stay awile, yeah, otherwise a little clean-up in the
right places goes a long way. The heads are just like the much-vaunted
2bbl 351C head. If you were resourceful and did alot of the R&D
yourself(who can afford to pay somebody to develop a power combo anyway)
the 400M, if the TLC were applied in the right places, would run pretty
darn well.
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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 20:36:42 -0900
From: Alex C
Subject: FTE 61-79 - What kinda truck is it

Can anyone help me, This past summer I bought a '79 F-250 Supercab. The
truck has the following, long bed, dual tanks, a/c, cruise, auto trans
and a 460. along the rear of the bed on both sides is the word Explorer
it also says that on the hood emblem. On the glove box is a simulated
wood grain with an emblem Custom on it, it also says Custom on both
fenders just beneath the F-250 emlem. I am looking for an internet
source or a book or one of you guys that can tell me everthing about "OL
YELLA"
thanks in advance
Alex Cline
Fairbanks, Alaska

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Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 23:36:04 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Blue...Oh So Lonesome For You...

> He sounds as confused as I. Any Die Hard FoMoCo people out there know the
> correct answer to this question?? If I am unable to locate or identify the
> correct engine color, I will use #205 blue, which is a medium blue. I have
> compared all Ford engine paint colors to the original paint colors on my
> engine and none match exactly. The #205 medium comes the closest. Any
> takers???
>
> I am positive the engine has never been painted or rebuilt since it was new
> so I know the current paint is the factory color.
> So, Which one is it??????
>
> Inquiring mind(s) want to know.

I too have seen a few different "Ford Blue" colors. The bright blue is
a tractor color, but the darker ones are hard to tell on. I suspect
that the shades varied according to the mixture of pigments too adding
to the confusion. The one I've yet to see on the shelf is a medium blue
with a greenish tint that came on the '66 FE's in the Galaxiies.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 23:57:06 -0600
From: Jeremy Stiffler
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gas Tank & Fuel Gauge Sending Unit

Hello. I'm looking for some help on removing my gas tank from my truck.
I've read through something like 200 digest files so far and I have
something near 600 more left to go to read from the archives, so I am trying
to find answers to my questions that away, but it will take quite a while
before I finish all of the files. So here goes...

My truck was making some funky noises a while back and I pulled the inline
fuel filter right before the carb. and there was this real fine dust/rust
on the side away from the carb. Luckily none of the stuff got into the carb
because the other side of the filter was clean. I decided to put another
inline fuel filter in right after my tank switch to prevent the dust/rust....


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