61-79-list-digest Tuesday, February 2 1999 Volume 03 : Number 035



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Driveline demise
Re: FTE 61-79 - Factory Installed 460's
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 oil pump prime?
Re: FTE 61-79 - tire height
FTE 61-79 - Noise from down "under" ?
FTE 61-79 - FE's low oil pressure
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's low oil pressure
Re: FTE 61-79 - Driveline Demise
Re: FTE 61-79 - Broken Bolts.
Re: FTE 61-79 - 75 F250 4x4 stuff
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 oil pump prime?
FTE 61-79 - Winning Fords
Re: FTE 61-79 - 75 F250 4x4 stuff
FTE 61-79 - Strange POP
FTE 61-79 - The Ongoing Synthorphisis
FTE 61-79 - diagram for vaccum lines
FTE 61-79 - Stranded '66 Merc - follow up
Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange POP
FTE 61-79 - 75 f-250 4x4
FTE 61-79 - RE: header gaskets
Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange POP
FTE 61-79 - Good Sources for Carpet/ Interior stuff?
FTE 61-79 - Oversize Pistons
Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange POP
Re: FTE 61-79 - Oversize Pistons
FTE 61-79 - Oh man, I am back ;(
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: header gaskets
Re: FTE 61-79 - 63 f-100 ... LIST
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: header gaskets
Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange POP
Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange POP
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: header gaskets
FTE 61-79 - tapping rockers
FTE 61-79 - Please FWD '84 Bronco FS
Re: FTE 61-79 - Man Fixes '69 Ammeter Without Altering Shunt!
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 Power Steering Pump Brackets
Re: FTE 61-79 - Battery TOO live
FTE 61-79 - Re: Dual Alternator Bracket
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's low oil pressure

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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 08:07:01 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Driveline demise

I have thought of some more tests. If you have a regular differential,
these will work. If you have any kind of locker, don't do any of this. High
speeds can cause a tire to disintegrate. Don't let the vibration get too
bad or it may bounce your truck off of the jack. BE CAREFUL!!!

Jack up one rear wheel so that it clears the ground by several inches.
Block both front wheels. Start the engine, put the tranny in gear and
slowly increase engine speed. Your speedometer in this test will indicate
half of your real speed, so if it shows 30 you are spinning your tire at
60. If there is no vibration, go to the other side. If the vibration shows
up, stop everything. Take off the tire, put the lug nuts all back on and do
it again. If the vibration is still there, take off the brake drum and do
it again. If the vibration is still there, the problem is in the rearend
unit or driveshaft somewhere. If you lost the vibration anytime through the
test, the last piece removed is the culprit. We once found a warped brake
drum this way.

BTW, bad u-joints discovered early don't usually vibrate or allow play,
they just make a lot of racket. You can visually inspect them and often see
where rust has spattered out of the bad ones. I don't know how else to
describe it.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 08:21:08 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Factory Installed 460's

>360 from 1968 thru 1976 or 77
>390 from 1968 thru 1976 or 77 I can't ever remember (CRS)

Usually 76 for the pick-up stuff, though we've seen references for the FE
series going a bit higher.


>302 in '68 or '69 me thinks _ Joe Shoman has a 68 f-100 4x4 (I think) that
>has a 302 that was not an option then, at one time he seemed to believe it
>was original although I have never seen a factoy 4x4 with a 302 before the
>mid seveties.

Interesting, the 302 was introduced in the midsized cars in 67, so I
wouldn't be surprised to find a couple in the late 60's pickups ...


>Examples I have found on my one owner truck are hard to believe!
>The rear pumpkin in my 9 inch was painted red, the yoke was Ford tractor blue.
>The transfer case yoke going to the front axle was painted John Deere
>green, The output yoke off the tailend of the tranny/transfer case was also
>green. Bizzare to say the least. The transfer case and NP435 tranny are
>Ford T-Bird/Chrysler red which looks like Chevy (that ws hard to type!)
>engine orange.
>

Are you sure what you're seeing isn't just the color coding for particular
axles ? The red I'm fairly sure is the primer sprayed on to keep things
from rusting, but it almost sounds like everything else is the color coding
used at the factory so that the linesmen didn't have to read the actual
part numbers from the bin,they could just turn around and grab the color of
the part they needed...


>I wish it was like that with engine choices today from the factory.
>What I wouldn't do for a 1999 SD 250 4x4 with Dana 60's all around and a
>Monster firebreathing 460 and a heavy duty 6 speed manual tranny with vinyl
>40-20-40 split seats and no body trim with aluminum rims. They just won't
>do it today!! :(
>But it would be nice, eh??
>
The 460 was nice, but what about that new V10 ? Nothin like 6L of revving
... and revving and revving ... :)


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 08:24:59 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 oil pump prime?

At 10:15 AM 1/31/99 , you wrote:
>Hey Guys,
> Duh, uh, when i put the new oil pump and pickup on my 460, uh, i forgot
>to
>prime it. Is there anyway to do this , without taking the pan back off.
>Thanks, the absent minded mechanic
>
>I manged to forget this myself once....What I did is use a drill and a "pre
>oiler" and just spun the pump a bit....with the pan full of oil it primed up
>rather quickly this way....not sure this is the "correct" way but it worked
>for me!!
>
Seems like I saw it listed somewhere as the actual way to prime things ...
though that may have just been for after storing a vehicle ... hmmm...can't
do that on my Mustang when I get it out this spring ... wonder what I will
do ? Probably just change the oil and start it ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 08:29:25 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - tire height

At 10:43 PM 1/29/99 , you wrote:
>I am getting ready to get new tires for my 66 F100 and was wondering if
>anyone knows the math formula for figuring out tire height.
>
I assume you're talking about the p-metric system (LT275/75 R15)
Here's the breakdown of that number:

LT = Light Truck (P=passenger car)
275 = width of tire in mm
75 = aspect ratio (height to width) (%)
= (blank space is sometimes a letter, this would be speed rating ZR=
180+ I think, H is 120 or 130, something like that, probably not an issue
on truck tires)
R = Radial
15 = rim size.

To find the overall height of a tire use :

2*width*AR+rim size

AR = Aspect ratio = 75/100 in this case

I have a spreadsheet to help out with this if you're interested, it lets
you put in the tire size and gives you the overall height in inches...its
not perfect, but its close enough.


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 09:40:31 -0500
From: pdesanto cinergy.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Noise from down "under" ?

I'm responding direct to you, and the list because I get the digest mode and
it might be days before you see this. I can't help you on your 429 question.
I only wish I had one too. But your drivetrain noise sounds like a problem I
had a while back on mine. (64 F-100, 351 w/C-4)
Do you have a 2 piece driveshaft? If so look at the carrier bearing, and
mount. The problem with mine was it would move a little off center when
heavily loaded, (torque-wise) and the shaft would get slightly "twisted" (
crooked ) and then it would vibrate like all get out. Went to a 1-piece and
that cured it. Good luck, Phil
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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 08:47:02 -0600
From: "James Petty"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE's low oil pressure

I'm rebuilding a 360 for my 76 F150 and was
talking with someone over the weekend.

I was told that FE's were bad about not having
good oil pressure. I know mine sure doesn't...

Is this a real problem?
What about mods to the crank/block to increase oil pressure?
Should I even be worried about it? The current engine has
gone 175,000 miles..


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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 08:55:17 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's low oil pressure

>I'm rebuilding a 360 for my 76 F150 and was

Hey good luck w/it ... if you need another lemme know :)

>I was told that FE's were bad about not having
>good oil pressure. I know mine sure doesn't...
>
>Is this a real problem?
>What about mods to the crank/block to increase oil pressure?
>Should I even be worried about it? The current engine has
>gone 175,000 miles..
>
Hmmm...sounds like your engine might be a touch tired ... my motor (who
knows how many miles) was doin fine til I did something dumb. I think for
"normal" useage that the stock oiling system would be fine. If you are
doing high revs or something, you might want to consider modifications ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 09:43:36 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Driveline Demise

Have you though of your tire's. U-joints will cause viberation (sp) also
You just stated hearing noise. I hate humming or howeling (sp) tires.



At 10:36 PM 1/30/99 -0600, you wrote:
>I'd check the u-joints and hanger bearing (if you have a two-piece
>driveline) first. The rearend will usually growl and a pinion bearing
>will usually scrape when they get loose enough to vibrate noticably.
>Not always, but in most cases.
>
>> Does this sound like a failing driveline to y'all?
>>
>> The truck ('69 F250 with a C-6) sounds fine as I accelerate from a stop
up to
>> about 35-40 mph, but then it starts this humming or drumming sound that
seems
>> to come from the back of the truck. It seems to change pitch a little
as I
>> accelerate and de-accelerate, but not dramatically. If I come to a stop
and
>> start again, the sound is gone until I get to 35-40 mph again.
>>
>> If it is the driveline, how should I diagnose it?
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>
>

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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 09:48:19 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Broken Bolts.

If your talking about the bolt on the end of the raduis arm, several months
ago someone came up with a neat solution to this problem. Might check out the
tech page on ford-trucks.com. Show pictures and all.




At 01:20 AM 1/31/99 EST, you wrote:
>I just swapped my front axle out and I broke one of the raduis arm bolts. I
>didnt have time to try and get it out. And I am not sure the best way.
>Should I drill it out and with what. Any suggestions.Thanks for the help
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>
>

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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 08:17:20 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 75 F250 4x4 stuff

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael R. Masse
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 8:15 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 75 F250 4x4 stuff



>The dash has an idiot light that says "Low fuel economy" and I jokingly
>said to my buddy that it should probably be on all the time, but what
>what is this light actually supposed to indicate? What triggers it?


Vacuum source. Anytime the vacuum signal drops below a predefined level i.e.
at or near WOT the light comes on.

>According to the VIN number, the 460 in it is stock. If this is the
>stock engine, is there anything inherantly not desirable about a 75?


4X4s didn't come with 460s stock in 75. Maybe you're reading the VIN wrong
or maybe it's not a 460.


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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 08:23:17 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 oil pump prime?

What you saw is the proper way to "prelube" a newly rebuilt engine prior to
starting it. The proper way to prime a new oil pump is to fill it full of
Vaseline prior to installation.

- -----Original Message-----
From: William S Hart
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 6:26 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 oil pump prime?



>Seems like I saw it listed somewhere as the actual way to prime things ...
>though that may have just been for after storing a vehicle ... hmmm...can't
>do that on my Mustang when I get it out this spring ... wonder what I will
>do ? Probably just change the oil and start it ...


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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 10:24:18 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Winning Fords

I am not much of a football fan. Someone asked me on Saturday who I wanted
to win the Superbowl. My reply: "I really don't care. Either way a Ford
wins." As it turned out, it was the Ford truck (FTE content).


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 10:41:05 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 75 F250 4x4 stuff

>>According to the VIN number, the 460 in it is stock. If this is the
>>stock engine, is there anything inherantly not desirable about a 75?
>
>
>4X4s didn't come with 460s stock in 75. Maybe you're reading the VIN wrong
>or maybe it's not a 460.
>
Is it possible the cab and motor were swapped onto a different chassis ?
My truck lists as a 2wd according to the VIN, so obviously that is the case
(and I had already guessed it) for my truck ... maybe this one as well ?


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 12:24:38 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Strange POP

Bud Arnold writes: >> When I hammer
down on my truck quite a bit (give it enough gas to pop open the back two
barrels on the carb), in 2nd and 3rd gear and when the rpm's get to about
2500-3000, there is a pop, a brief slack in power, and something hits the
bottom of the truck. At first, i thought i had just thrown up a pebble
from the road and it hit my floorpans, but it has done it every time i have
experimented by hammering down (3 or 4 times). I have never tried to keep
on accelerating after this happened, as it is usually just an instant
before i shift, and i am terrified i am going to break something major.
Anybody know what this is?

Thanks for the compliment, but I'm certainly no expert.
I'm in digest mode, and at work only, so thats the reason for a Monday response
to a Friday post.

This could be any number of things and all would be extremely hard to diagnose
via mail, but here goes. Does your shift lever have a corresponding vibration
at the very instant of the pop??
Do you feel a thump in the floorboards??? Can you "feel" this pop anyplace as
well as hear it??? I've a feeling it is probably u-joint related or perhaps it
is the center bearing on a two piece drive shaft, or something similar. I've
also heard of folks having a strange pop when the slip yoke in the tranny was a
bit short, but with the T18 you have a bolted in yoke, do you not??? No broken
tranny mounts - engine mounts???

Give us a bit more info, and I think we can help you to isolate it.

Azie





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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 11:59:06 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - The Ongoing Synthorphisis

In our last episode our hero has been converting all of the fluids in
his '65 F250 4X4 to synthetic...

I put Mobil 1 15W50 in the crankcase of the '65 yesterday. $23.50 for 6
qts. I chose the 15W50 since my engine fits the criteria for worn-out
piece of crap, or high performance heavily loaded high revving engine.
I can't decide which but it's one of those two. The lifters quieted
down cosiderably, but the pistons noise stayed about the same. (I swear
they must all be in backwards, because it sounds just like a diesel!!)
I took it out and warmed it up and ran it from 45 to 65 mph a few times
(2200-3200 rpms+ -)and then took it for a banzai run, and wound 3rd up
to about 6000 rpms. I could feel a seat of the pants difference in the
power under both of those conditions. Around town it seems to have a
lttle more power too. My theory is that the rings need that heavy oil
to seal better and they like the stability of the synthetic. I don't
expect any improvement in mileage since I'm going from 10W30 to this
much heavier oil, but I doubt it will drop, since it supposedly flows as
well as 5W30 conventional when cold.

Now what I hope is it will perform up tp expectation in it's corrosion
and sludge fighting capacities. Stay tuned.....
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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 13:27:03 -0500
From: "Leslie O Mehaffey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - diagram for vaccum lines

does anyone know where I can find a diagram for vaccum lines on a 1979 F-150
with a 302 2bbl?

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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 14:07:32 EST
From: Brazzadog aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stranded '66 Merc - follow up

The '66 Merc belongs to a neighbor. It is in eastern Washington. It's bright
yellow. C4? No power accessories. I don't think he used a lowering kit.
I've already listed everything else I know.

He's been talking about selling for about a year. I thought he was finally
serious now that he's down to one reliable driver and about 10 projects. I
still think he'll be selling by the end of summer, but now that I've told him
there's interest he's clammed up again. I think it's one of those deals where
he needs to sell but doesn't want to. If he gets serious enough to actually
run an ad ( I thought he did already) I'll reinform the list.

Thanks to all those who offered advice on how to get it started and home.
It's home now, but I didn't see it happen. He says he just turned the key and
it started and ran fine. I noticed he hasn't driven it since.

Ben Williams
'78 F-250 4wd

Azie wrote:

>Ben Williams writes: >> Anybody interested in a lowered '66 Merc shortbox?
>
>Might be. Where are you (is the truck)??? Put a $ figure on it. Also some
>particulars of the truck. Color? Tranny? How was it lowered - Kit or
what??
>You've already stated it has a 400 engine. Any power accessories??

Don wrote:

>Check for water in your gas. Condensation can be a problem especially
>when temps are around freezing and the tank is less than full
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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 13:39:18 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange POP

Just a thought, could it be gas build up in the muffler and exploding
popping the muffler against the floor board. I have some weird thoughts.




At 12:24 PM 2/1/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Bud Arnold writes: >> When I hammer
>down on my truck quite a bit (give it enough gas to pop open the back two
>barrels on the carb), in 2nd and 3rd gear and when the rpm's get to about
>2500-3000, there is a pop, a brief slack in power, and something hits the
>bottom of the truck. At first, i thought i had just thrown up a pebble

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>
>

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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 11:58:45 -0800
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 75 f-250 4x4

"is there anything inherantly not desirable about a 75?"

The power steering system causes a lot of people a lot of
trouble ,but I personaly have not had any trouble with my 76

"According to the VIN number, the 460 in it is stock."
I'm not aware of anything larger than a 360 being stock in a 75 4x4.
Maybe the truck was originaly a 4x2?Does the VIN say F250(4x2)or F260
(4x4)?Might see if the engine checks out as a 75 truck 460.Maybe you
have a collectors item.

"The hood ornament says Explorer. Was there anything substantial about
this package, or was it just trim stuff?"

As far as I know just trim stuff.

"and the front springs are totally flat, with no arch at all.
Are they supposed to be like this? The reason I ask is that there's
only about an inch of room, before the axle hits the rubber stop. Is
this normal or are they sagging?"

Both.It's normal for them to sag even without a plow hanging off the
front for who knows how many years.

I would do some serous research on this truck before I started
"stealing"parts off it.(Explorer,460 etc.)
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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 12:00:35 -0800
From: "Wiltzius, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: header gaskets

Hi all,
I put the header gaskets on my 360 this weekend and still
have a couple of small leaks. Tried retightening them hot
(burn on arm proves that) cooled down and re tighten, heat up
retighten ( no new burns :)) but to no avail still some small leaks.
My understanding is that these are supposed to be put on dry ( no sealer).
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Art, I tried your work number Fri but you were out - how did the install go?


Thanks
Tom
Reno,NV

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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 12:12:39 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange POP

I think you're probably pretty close based on the power loss.

Just my pair o' Lincoln's.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange POP


>Just a thought, could it be gas build up in the muffler and exploding
>popping the muffler against the floor board. I have some weird thoughts.
>
>
>
>
>At 12:24 PM 2/1/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>Bud Arnold writes: >> When I hammer
>>down on my truck quite a bit (give it enough gas to pop open the back two
>>barrels on the carb), in 2nd and 3rd gear and when the rpm's get to about
>>2500-3000, there is a pop, a brief slack in power, and something hits the
>>bottom of the truck. At first, i thought i had just thrown up a pebble
>


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 17:10:14 -0500
From: "Sean R. Kerns"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Good Sources for Carpet/ Interior stuff?

Hi,

I have a '79 F-250 4x4. I've had it for about 10 years, and
am now in the process of trying to undo some of the damage
I've done. One of the things I'm most in need of is a new
carpet for this thing. Can anyone recommend a good source
for these?
I have one catalog for this truck, but the only carpet it
list is black (I need maroon), and "Not for C-6 or 4-speed"
(I have a C-6).

Thanks in advance,

Sean
'79 F-250 4x4, 429 4V, C6
Cincinnati, OH

- --
Sean R. Kerns (aka Snake)
e-mail: music bloodspoint.com
Bloodspoint Studio - Home of Stalking Horse
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bloodspoint.com
"You're in a band... That's like a business class ticket to
cool, with complimentary mojo after takeoff..."


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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 16:21:01 -0800
From: "The Zahns"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oversize Pistons

Someone told me that when you rebuild an engine have to bore the cylinders
oversize that for every 10 over you gain one cubic inch per cylinder on the
displacement of the engine. So if I had a 460 that was 30 over it would
really be an 484? Does anyone know if that is true and if so how would that
effect the performance and/or economy of the engine?
FredZ

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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 15:45:17 -0800
From: Mike Pacheco
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange POP

Sounds like a transmission or engine mount...

Mike in Seattle

am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote:

> Bud Arnold writes: >> When I hammer
> down on my truck quite a bit (give it enough gas to pop open the back two
> barrels on the carb), in 2nd and 3rd gear and when the rpm's get to about
> 2500-3000, there is a pop, a brief slack in power, and something hits the
> bottom of the truck. At first, i thought i had just thrown up a pebble
> from the road and it hit my floorpans, but it has done it every time i have
> experimented by hammering down (3 or 4 times). I have never tried to keep
> on accelerating after this happened, as it is usually just an instant
> before i shift, and i am terrified i am going to break something major.
> Anybody know what this is?
>
> Thanks for the compliment, but I'm certainly no expert.
> I'm in digest mode, and at work only, so thats the reason for a Monday response
> to a Friday post.
>
> This could be any number of things and all would be extremely hard to diagnose
> via mail, but here goes. Does your shift lever have a corresponding vibration
> at the very instant of the pop??
> Do you feel a thump in the floorboards??? Can you "feel" this pop anyplace as
> well as hear it??? I've a feeling it is probably u-joint related or perhaps it
> is the center bearing on a two piece drive shaft, or something similar. I've
> also heard of folks having a strange pop when the slip yoke in the tranny was a
> bit short, but with the T18 you have a bolted in yoke, do you not??? No broken
> tranny mounts - engine mounts???
>
> Give us a bit more info, and I think we can help you to isolate it.
>
> Azie
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 17:18:58 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Oversize Pistons

Nope. A 460 bored .030 would be a 467 if the rods & crankshaft were left
stock.

- -----Original Message-----
From: The Zahns
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 4:19 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oversize Pistons


>Someone told me that when you rebuild an engine have to bore the cylinders
>oversize that for every 10 over you gain one cubic inch per cylinder on the
>displacement of the engine. So if I had a 460 that was 30 over it would
>really be an 484? Does anyone know if that is true and if so how would
that
>effect the performance and/or economy of the engine?


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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:45:37 -0600
From: wiregoat juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oh man, I am back ;(

Been gone for a while. I finally chickened out and replaced the
crankshaft, crank bearings, clutch, driveshaft hanger, and u-joint in
Yoda ( '68 F-100 240-6cyl). It ran for over a week with ZERO oil
pressure before I gave in and fixed. It never gave a hint of dying, just
kept going. It must have had a little oil moving around. When I had
finished all of this, I had two observations. First, I had left the oil
pump on the shelf in the box it came in. After putting the heart back
in the patient, I fired it up and thought that the engine ought to be
quieter since I no longer had things banging around on the crank. Oh it
was a little quieter, but, not much. Everything else runs like a clock,
good oil pressure. Any thoughts?
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 18:04:21 -0800
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: header gaskets

Re: the leaks, did you check the header for flatness before
installing? FE's are notorious for exhaust leaks if not done right.
I just finished one side of my '63 Bird (390) and I put both gaskets
and RTV high temp sealer and it doesn't leak anymore.

Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
68 F100 for sale
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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:30:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Daniel Koster
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 63 f-100 ... LIST

- ---stevegoins wrote:
>
> I have been reading this list for a few weeks now and really
enjoy,have also
> learned a lot. Ihave a 63 F-100 ...


How about a list of all the 63 owners?

we all seem to have the same questions and maybe we could get
each other's emails to ask specific questions w/o tying up the
list.

I would benefit greatly from the wisdom of the 'elders'.

Here's my email to start the list off:

Daniel Koster
rumpus1 yahoo.com


Thanks to all who post.



p.s. my 63 is the rusty lookin' one posted in the pictorial


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 23:30:51 -0500
From: "Ken Schneider"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: header gaskets

My truck came with headers when I bought it, never leaked 'til I rebuilt the
motor, After trying 3 sets of gaskets, Dad & I couldn't get any of them to
fit correctly against the headers, so we tried one set, and made the final
set out of gasket material & a Dremel tool. Not sure what brand headers
they are, but they are of the tri "y" design, and block access to the
starter (grrr, been there done that!) and bold up as individual pieces at
the head; they are not connected together at that end. I still have a leak
at the flange, the metal around it isn't streight, so I either need ultra
thick gaskets, or new headers. Incidently, the Ultra Hi-Temp paint does
stick, well 3k so far... Will find out more when I bring the truck out this
spring. Speaking of header flatness, I ended up filing the inside of
mine...

Ken Schneider, 68 F100, 368/C6/3.25's


>Re: the leaks, did you check the header for flatness before
>installing? FE's are notorious for exhaust leaks if not done right.
>I just finished one side of my '63 Bird (390) and I put both gaskets
>and RTV high temp sealer and it doesn't leak anymore.
>
>Tim Bowman
>Burien, WA
>68 F100 for sale

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 23:28:15 -0500
From: j arnold
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange POP

Azie,

The shift lever certainly does vibrate, and i can feel the pop on the
floorboard, like you said. I had all the u-joints replaced (they were too
old and corroded in there for me to do it without the proper tool, so i had
m mechanic friend replace them at his shop) at the time of the first fire,
about 3-4 months ago, and about 2500-3000 miles ago. Could it be that i
just have a defective u-joint? They don't normally go out that fast do
they, i don't ever remember changing ours, in the nearly 20 years that we
have owned the truck. I do have a two-piece drive shaft, so that could be
the problem as well. My father says, and now that i think about it i
agree, that i have a u-joint at the transmission end, not a bolt on yoke.
it is, however, bolted on at the rear end. I don't have any broken engine
mounts, but will crawl up there tomorrow morning and check on my tranny
mounts. Also, my father said something about my vacuum advance being way
off and that is one of the causes for it running so rough. It was way out
of time and missing, and i adjusted it by ear, so it improved the vibration
quite a bit, but still hasn't completely smoothed it out. Also, it has
started dieseling as of late. Could these problems be intertwined? Or am
i just experiencing a general break-down of everything and anything on my
truck? How would i go about correcting my vaccuum advance, by the way?
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer, hope to hear from you soon!

- -Bud
'79 F-250 429 Police Interceptor, T-18
'76 F-100 302, 3-speed (PLEASE buy me!)($800)

>Thanks for the compliment, but I'm certainly no expert.
>I'm in digest mode, and at work only, so thats the reason for a Monday
response
>to a Friday post.
>
>This could be any number of things and all would be extremely hard to
diagnose
>via mail, but here goes. Does your shift lever have a corresponding
vibration
>at the very instant of the pop??
>Do you feel a thump in the floorboards??? Can you "feel" this pop
anyplace as
>well as hear it??? I've a feeling it is probably u-joint related or
perhaps it
>is the center bearing on a two piece drive shaft, or something similar. I've
>also heard of folks having a strange pop when the slip yoke in the tranny
was a
>bit short, but with the T18 you have a bolted in yoke, do you not??? No
broken
>tranny mounts - engine mounts???
>
> Give us a bit more info, and I think we can help you to isolate it.
>
>Azie
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>

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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 23:36:42 -0500
From: j arnold
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange POP

Would the build-up in the muffler cause the power loss? I have a couple of
generic turbos on there now, trying to keep it from busting every piece of
glass in town, but am considering changing over to 3-chamber Flowmasters.
Anybody out there have some Flowmasters on souped up 429/460s? Too loud?
I would like a little rumble, but since my truck is in no way smog legal, i
don't want to get pulled over for too loud of exhaust and have a Police Man
look under the hood and under the truck....to the impound lot she would go! :(

- -Bud
'79 F-250 429 Police Interceptor, T-18
'76 F-100 302, 3-speed (BUY ME PLEASE $800)

At 12:12 PM 2/1/99 -0800, you wrote:
>I think you're probably pretty close based on the power loss.
>
>Just my pair o' Lincoln's.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Larry Schmiedekamp
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 11:53 AM
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Strange POP
>
>
>>Just a thought, could it be gas build up in the muffler and exploding
>>popping the muffler against the floor board. I have some weird thoughts.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>At 12:24 PM 2/1/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>>Bud Arnold writes: >> When I hammer
>>>down on my truck quite a bit (give it enough gas to pop open the back two
>>>barrels on the carb), in 2nd and 3rd gear and when the rpm's get to about
>>>2500-3000, there is a pop, a brief slack in power, and something hits the
>>>bottom of the truck. At first, i thought i had just thrown up a pebble
>>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 23:51:27 -0500
From: "Phil"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: header gaskets

Awhile back I had problems with headers leaking on a 302 I had, a friend
suggested using stock exhaust manifold gaskets, they didn't leak for the
year that I had it. I have also heard that if you soaked the aftermarket
gasket in water overnight that that helps. haven't tried that one yet.

Phil Beattie
66 F100 390 C6
66 F100 (no drivetrain)
79 F250 4x4 400

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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 23:53:09 -0500
From: j arnold
Subject: FTE 61-79 - tapping rockers

While i am in a general whiny mood concerning my truck, i have another
little problem that i hope some of you can help me with. Once my truck has
been warming up for about 5-10 minutes in the mornings, some of the rockers
on the passenger side begin to tap. A friend said that it was probably
because they were the original rockers, and they had developed a little
groove over the years, and they were just tapping on the rocker arms. I
have adjusted my rockers as far down as possible. I am also running 10W40
motor oil in her. My question is this: if i run a thicker oil, say 20W50
or possibly a synthetic blend, will it be enough to quell this little tap?
Everyone that has looked at it says that it isn't a bad tap, just annoying
like crazy. Also, if i were to buy a set of roller rockers for it, would i
be able to run them on the stock valve train (minus a mild cam, but not a
roller cam)? Or would i have to upgrade the entire valve train to roller
accessories? Thanks in advance for all replys!

- -Bud
'79 F-250 429 Police Interceptor, T-18
'76 F-100 302, 3-speed (For Sale $800)(have pic upon request)

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Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 05:18:44 -0000
From: "Jeff Carver"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Please FWD '84 Bronco FS

Would someone please forward this to the
correct list. This is the only one I'm on.

My neighbor is selling his '84 Bronco.
He's a drive by neighbor (I only drive by,
rarely talk) but he's parked it out on his
driveway. It looks in great shape.

The particulars:
'84 Bronco XLT, 1 owner, 6 cylinder, 4sp, OD.
530-268-6674 $4250

This is the Grass Valley area, 40 miles east
of Sacramento. Judging by his house and hobby
cars, this should be in great shape.
From what I can see, it has aluminum wheels,
new tires, receiver hitch, orignial brown and
white paint.

I can easily get a better look, if you tell me
what to look for.

Jeff


Get your FREE Email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mailcity.lycos.com
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 21:11:19 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Man Fixes '69 Ammeter Without Altering Shunt!

[I've resurrected Jim's post to help out with his current brain teaser]

A few months back, Jim E. Boasted:

>
> Yes! That's Right! I now have a working ammeter in my '69 F-100 and
> I did nothing to change the shunt!
>
> How did I do this?
>
> I have not a clue. Chuckle. When repairing the smoked wire
> from my recent mishap (thanks again to all who replied) I unwrapped
> a fair amount of the harness looking towards fixing the ammeter shunt
> at the same time. A couple of observations-tips:
> The wiring colors on the '69 do not match the color codes of any of
> the schematics that have been sent to me, particularly in the
> charging circuit. Some do, some don't. Noodle away.

Well, your '69 doesn't match my '70 F250 either, but they have enough in
common to get thru this. I also tried to get a 'real' schematic from the
library this afternoon, but all I could find was a '70 mustang with an
ammeter. It's real close to both our trucks.

> The connectors (number of and number of leads per) do not match the
> description in Tom Hogan's write-up from the archives. Noodle away.
> If I have deciphered it all correctly, The black with yellow striped
> wire is supposed to be the shunt. It attaches to the lead from the
> solenoid to ammeter, about 5 inches from the ammeter.
^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^
Typo alert! Should these be ALTERNATOR?

Jim, can you (or Tom) send me a copy of Tom's posting, I lost my
'Best of FTE' file a few months back.
(sizzle...sizzle...$^&*(^$# &*)$ * win98).

> Black with Yellow, large black
> from solenoid, and two different gauges of yellow are all molded
> together in a round plug hidden in the harness. The other end of
> Black with yellow, along with the green with red, and two yellows
> are then molded into a 4 prong plug that connects to the wiring
> harness. ALL of these wires have continuity to the ignition switch.
> (Yes Steve, I do own a multi-meter, three in fact).
> Another red and yellow from the wiring harness attach directly
> to the positive (battery) terminal of the solenoid, on the same post
> with the battery lead, and the heavy gauge black that runs from the
> solenoid to (eventually) ammeter. Tracing this black, it goes from
> the solenoid, down the harness towards the next wrapped Y-junction,
> then takes off towards the regulator, is doubled back on itself at
> the radiator and runs all the way back to the aforementioned bundled
> connection with black/yellow and 2 yellows near the alternator.

The last sentence seems to confirm the typo a few lines back -

> This got me to wondering if THIS wire [solid black]was
> supposed to function as shunt, with it's extra runs etc. It would
> also be a connection that could be read as matching schematics
> (remember, shunt and solenoid to bat are in parallel).

Yes! The shunt is a low-resistance connection between the alternator
and the battery. MOST of the (dis)charge current runs thru the shunt,
a small amount flows thru the ammeter. Think of the ammeter as a volt
meter, with the shunt across it. Now run some current thru the shunt,
the voltmeter would read (I*R) Volts,
(from ohm's law, voltage = current (times) resistance).
If you now increase the current thru the shunt, or the resistance of
the shunt, the measured voltage goes up. Now, just re-calibrate your
voltmeter to read amps, you have an ammeter. Remember, we are working
with currents in the range of 50-100 amps depending on your alternator,
so it doesn't take much resistance to make this scheme work. IIRC, Tom
and Steve had all these voltages and currents worked out.

> As I reassembled all of this (including new dash bulbs and a good
> underdash brush and vacuum), was pondering the feasibility of just
> disconnecting the black at the solenoid post and (without the truck
> running) clipping wires in between it and the solenoid to see if it
> would function as an increased resistance shunt, rather than splicing
> anything. I hooked everything up, and lo and behold, without even
> doing this, THE AMMETER WORKED!

Well, it worked as well as mine does, see below. . .

> The only change in wiring path was moving the black/orange wire
> (regulator case ground) from the GRD terminal of the Alternator to the
> unmarked case ground terminal, which is as shown in schematics. Could
> it be that so many of these trucks do not have working ammeters
> because of that one wire not being connected correctly? I doubt it.

I seriously doubt that.

> I have a suspicion that what makes the difference is the pattern of
> connecting all the leads at the solenoid post. We have all had those
> moments of "now, let's see, was that washer between these, or on top
> of these". It is possible that despite logic, altering the connections
> at this post could change resistance from the black to the red-and-
> yellow-wire connector that also attaches there, increasing the
> resistance of the shunt sufficiently to allow the ammeter to work.
> Mine is very limited in normal range of movement, about a needle's
> width of discharge with the headlights on, engine not running, etc.
> This is normal in my experience for factory ammeters, and judging
> by the archives means absolute minimal resistance increase.

That's about as far as mine ever moved, on both my trucks. As far as
the washer stack-up theory, I suppose you could increase the shunt
resistance with some bad luck there, or a very judiscious stack up of
different metals (creating a crummy diode in the process, adding
voltage drop as a side effect of the current flow thru a crummy diode),
but I really doubt that it was designed that way. For one thing you
need some sort of insulator over the copper solenoid post, otherwise
everything would short out and defeat the purpose . . but hey, they're
engineers, anything is possible (Hey boss, I found a zero-cost way to
make an ammeter shunt . . . :-)

> Wish I knew the absolute truth. Subject tabled for explanation.
> (Do I hear gears turning in Steve's head?)
>
> Jim E.

Now, for the schematics I've found. There were three different
varieties in all the manuals:

#1: Steve's schematic:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/truck/fordchrg.jpg

#2: In Motor's truck repair, 1960-1970, on page 82, an
ammeter-equipped version of the above. 'I' terminal on
regulator not used, NO SHUNT. All the (dis)charge current
flows thru the black/yellow and the ammeter. 'A+' term on
regulator connects to ignition switch. A schematic that
looks remarkably like Steve's also appears next to this one:-)

#3: Didn't copy it, so I don't know the source, but a variation
of #2 WHICH SHOWED THE SHUNT, shunting across the ammeter. The
shunt was shown in dotted lines with the note "present with shunt-
style ammeters'. Note that in this case, the (dis)charge current
flows mainly thru the shunt, The Black/Yellow becomes the power
feed to everything else, and the ammeter itself can be connected
with fairly small gauge wires. This is how our trucks are wired.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California


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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 22:00:43 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 Power Steering Pump Brackets

Tim O'Connor wrote:
> Hi FTE,
> Looking for the power steering adjusting bracket and support for the
> pump for a 66 F100. Anything from 66 thru 69 will work. Also,
> someone posted the E-mail address for salvage yards a while back.
> I lost it. Can someone give it to me again?

Earlier last week, Jeff (CJ) had asked:
> Does anyone have a spare power steering bracket for an FE?
> I'm looking for the two-piece style where the pump bolts up
> to the bracket, and there are three "vertical" bolts that
> slide in slots. The belt is then tightened by turning an
> adjusting bolt and then held in place by tightening these
> three bolts.

Hi Tim,
I have an extra one of these, it isn't the style Jeff was looking
for, but it is off a 70-something with an FE. This would be the
'grab the pump and pull as hard as you can' type. It is two pieces,
and the two slide slots are arced. Bracket numbers are C5SA-3D515A,
and C7TA-3C511B. Let me know if you're interested.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California


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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 21:37:21 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Battery TOO live

Jim, continuing to torture my brain late at night, wrote:
> Pat Brown (with tongue in cheek) replied:
> > [Blue Moon snipped]
> >Jim asks:
> > [Battery circuit voltage too high, what's up?]
> >
> > Well, since you've done the obvious (regulator(s)), have you had
> > your battery checked out (load tested). Maybe you have a marginal
> > cell.
>
> No, I have not
>
> > So, it seems that your regulator is increasing the current output
> > from the alternator until it sees the correct voltage at
> > the load.
>
> I gather you are saying that a low cell possibly "fools" the v.reg.
> (solid state) into upping voltage.
>

Yep, a shot from the hip. Alternator working overtime to charge a dying
battery?

> >Now, I know you just rewired, and you didn't use Stu's directions
> >(he lied), but are all the high current connections good? There needs
> >to be a very good connection between the BAT terminal and the
> > battery, and the battery and A+ terminal at the regulator. Also,
> > the regulator, alternator, and battery grounds.
>
> Check and Check.
>
> >Check out Steve's wiring diagram at:
> >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/truck/fordchrg.jpg Notice the big,
> >fat wire from the BAT term to the battery. Also, notice where the
> >A+ wire connects in at battery itself, if it's hooked to the wrong
> >side of the shunt you could have problems. Oh yea, Steve lied too.
> >In our trucks with the (mostly inoperable) ammeter, the 'I'
> >terminal at the regulator isn't used, and the 'S' term goes
> >somewhere that escapes me sitting here at work:-(

Now, for some more fuel for the fire:
In the begining, all (mechanical) voltage regulators were adjustable.
Then, autolite created the "Solid State" regulator. It was adjustable.
Under the cover, there was a voltage adjustment, along with a field
relay and a few transistors (I guess it was a 'Hybrid' regulator,
not fully solid state). Now, we buy replacement regulators. 100% solid
state, fully potted, sealed, and NOT adjustable. They fit "FORD - ALL
1962-1986 (or whatever) I can see here that such a regulator will behave
differently in say a '69 pickup, or a '67 falcon due to the differences
in the shunt/no shunt/idiot lights. And we can no longer adjust for
those
differences. Jim, you may not be able to fix this without resorting to
extraordinary means . .

>
> Will check it again.
> Note:
> 1. positioning of wires to shunt on a single post connection will make
> the difference of whether the ammeter works or not, as I found at
> connection at starter solenoid. I have a
> theory that in original factory form, there was some special, subtle,
> washer/bushing arrangement there that kept the shunt in specific
> orientation. As our trucks age, how many of these connections have
> truly never been touched? Hence things change, connection pattern
> not EXACTLY the same, and everything works but the ammeter. When I
> redid mine, the ammeter
> miraculously started working again, no other changes. Since then it
> has quit, and I have not had time to research it, but bet I will find
> the key in that connection.

See my reply to "Man fixes '69 Ammeter . . . " for my thoughts on
the above theory . .

> 2. Connecting the S terminal is what fried part of my wiring harness,
> so would you care to know where I suggest you connect the S?

Sorry, I didn't quite complete that. What I should have typed was "The
'S' Term ON THE REGULATOR connects to the ignition switch, the 'STA'
term on the alternator ISN'T USED, as you discovered.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California . . Where the Blue Moon is Waning . .


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 22:07:58 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dual Alternator Bracket

Don Grossman wrote:

> Since we are in the bracket mood. Does anyone have the dual
> alternator bracket for the FE? I have been having a devil of
> a time finding one. I think they were on 1 tons and larger
> with some kind of special option.

Don, would this be the "Electric Power Pack" I see listed for
71-72 trucks? It appears to be a 2500 watt 120 volt alternator.
For $468.50, it probably is pretty rare (1972 SWB MSRP $2702.90)
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 22:17:59 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's low oil pressure

James Petty wrote:
>
> I'm rebuilding a 360 for my 76 F150 and was
> talking with someone over the weekend.
>
> I was told that FE's were bad about not having
> good oil pressure. I know mine sure doesn't...
>

I snipped this thread a while back, it's long, but
just imagine Steve, Azie, and Bill sitting around the
shop, talking about FE's :-).

> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 18:44:40 -0800
> From: sdelanty
> Subject: Re: Number 4 Main Oil Feed Hole
>
> >> Yes! I had forgotten that I did that, too. This is best
> >> accomplished with a high-speed tool like a Dremel with a 1/8 inch
> >> carbide burr chucked up. Check all five of these, as I remember at
> >> least one other that was partially plugged, though not quite so
> >> drastically.
>
> >Azie and Marv, Why did you guys do this again?? It seems to fly in
> >the face of modern thinking from what I've read? I know for a fact
> >that the cleveland required restrictors in the cam passages from the
> >mains to run hard or all the oil got pumped up into the top end and
> >cavitated the bearings??
>
> Ummm, I'm confused here... Are we talking about opening the hole on
> the #4 main bearing saddle? Since the FE bearings are oiled from
> above,from the cam bearing area, how does opening this hole increase oil to
> anything but the #4 bearing? (Yes, I opened mine up)
> Remember that the regular, "non side-oiler" FE's have the main oil
> passage *above* the camshaft. Oil comes thru this passage, down to
> the cam bearings and then down to the mains. Opening the #4 oil hole
> does not increase flow to the top end, only to the #4 bearing.
>
> One of the problems with the FE is that it pumps *way* too much oil to
> the rocker assemblies, robbing pressure from the bottom end and also
> filling the rocker chambers with oil at high RPM's.
> This is easily cured by tapping the oil passage in the head (just under
> the rocker stand) and inserting a restrictor plug.
> This passage is the right diameter to tap for a 3/8"-18 bolt.
> I ran a tap down the passage, took a 3/8"-18 bolt and cut a piece about
> 7/16" long off of it so I had a short "stud". I took this piece and
> sawed
> a groove on one end of it for a screwdriver slot, then drilled a 1/16"
> hole (.062") down the center of it.
> These were my "restrictor plugs". I screwed them into the tapped
> passages
> in the heads and put the rockers back on and all done...
> This change brought my "summertime hot" idle oil pressure up from
> 12-13psi
> up to 16-17psi. I use 10-40 oil...
> The rockers still get more than enough oil and I may change the
> restrictor
> plugs to 3/64" (.047") next time I've got a reason to take the rockers
> off.
>
> Have any of You other FE guys done this "restrictor trick" yet?
> If You're carefull and adventurous it can be done in a couple hours
> without removing the heads...
>
> Happy motoring,
>
> Steve
>
> Opportunity may knock only once,
> but temptation leans on the doorbell.
>
> Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 08:32:43 -0500
> From: am14 chrysler.com
> Subject: Oil hole restriction
>
> Gary writes: >>Azie and Marv, Why did you guys do this again?? It
> seems to fly in the face of modern thinking from what I've read? I
> know for a fact that the cleveland required restrictors in the cam
> passages from the mains to run hard or all the oil got pumped up into
> the top end and cavitated the bearings??
>
> This is a Main hole - not a cam bearing hole. Remember the FE's
> (except the side oilers)feed oil to(read through) the Cam then the
> mains. The # 4 main oil hole is about 1/2 covered by the bearing shell
> meaning only half as much oil can get to #4. If memory serves me
> correctly the #2 has somewhat of a restriction, but not as severe as
> the #4. By opening the block passage from the oil filter adaptor up
> into the block where the oil turns down to go to the rear of the block
> from the 3/8" (or maybe 7/16") to 1/2" and opening the passages to
> these mains, you make the FE nearly indestructable. I always added a
> larger oilpan also, because I sucked one dry one time and cost me a
> crankshaft. Only crankshaft I ever ruined and I raced the FE's for 15
> plus years. I did a few other things, but these are the most important,
> and are more than sufficient for a very dependable truck motor.
>
> Azie
> Ardmore, Al.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 06:10:13 -0600
> From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
> Subject: FE vs. 460
>
> I knew that it was coming. The big-block Ford debate. Which is better?
> I had a friend back home in Springfield, MO who could build FE's to sing
> the
> circle-track aria from low E to high C. He told me that there were a few
> things that required attention for the music he was making, but for the
> most
> part, nothing exotic was required. This was his recipe for a cheap 450 to
> 500 hp engine.
> Garden variety 390 block, checked, decked, and aligned to perfection. Drill
> out the main oil passage from the oil filter adapter to the main offshoot
> gallery. Drill out the restriction cast into the rear main passage, and
> replace all press in galley plugs with screw-ins. Place a drilled to .10
> inch pipe plug in the block to head passage that feeds the rocker arms.
> Elongate the main bearing holes to match the main passages. You now have a
> very capable block.
> 390 crank, or if you desire a 410 or 428 station wagon crank. Forget the CJ
> crank, it's expensive and is only so because of the casting number, it is
> nothing special otherwise. If you use the 410/428 crank be sure to get the
> balancer and flywheel/flexplate for the 410/428.
> Aftermarket rods are preferred for extreme use, as they are on any hard
> running engine. If you have to have stock, use the 390 rod with all of the
> machine work and good bolts, forget the exotic stuff, but keep the rpms
> down
> to 6000.
> Forged pistons at 10.6 to 1 for 425 to 450 hp. 12.5 to 1 for 500 hp.
> There are two ways to go for heads. CJ heads or ported 390's with CJ
> valves.
> He used 390's on his engines, especially the '61-'64 Galaxie 4 bbl because
> the exhaust ports were a little bigger.
> Solid-lifter cam of 312 degrees with .550 lift. A split-pattern cam isn't....


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