61-79-list-digest Saturday, January 30 1999 Volume 03 : Number 032



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Battery TOO live
FTE 61-79 - Re: Battery dyeing
FTE 61-79 - 302 heads on a 351W
RE: FTE 61-79 - Biggest engine
Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical
Re: FTE 61-79 - Solenoid on carb, 79 F150
Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical
Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical
FTE 61-79 - Balance of 360 & 390
FTE 61-79 - Battery problems - Thanks!
FTE 61-79 - 65 pickup matchbox
FTE 61-79 - Steering column questions???
FTE 61-79 - 66 Merc
FTE 61-79 - Engines
FTE 61-79 - AOD
RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 pickup matchbox
FTE 61-79 - Ole Man, Oh No!
FTE 61-79 - How do synchros work?
FTE 61-79 - Driveline Demise?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Driveline Demise?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 f250 4x4 for sale
Re: FTE 61-79 - How do synchros work?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Engines
Re: FTE 61-79 - Driveline Demise?
FTE 61-79 - Sad anecdotes
Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical
FTE 61-79 - 65-66-F250 4X4's
FTE 61-79 - Truck bed
FTE 61-79 - Putting Arts Engine in
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engines
FTE 61-79 - Stranded '66 Merc
Re: FTE 61-79 - How do synchros work?
FTE 61-79 - tranny coolers
Re: FTE 61-79 - Driveline Demise?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthlube Info
Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic Lube
FTE 61-79 - Won't start easily, since weather warmed up
FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!
FTE 61-79 - idle adjuster on FI
Re: FTE 61-79 - Battery TOO live
FTE 61-79 - Nered Seat Belts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Balance of 360 & 390
FTE 61-79 - probs probs probs...
FTE 61-79 - 65 ford f-100
FTE 61-79 - tire height
Re: FTE 61-79 - 65 ford f-100

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 05:33:06 -0600
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Battery TOO live

Reading about dying batteries prompts me to inquire:

Mine is consistently overcharging the battery. I have now been through three
voltage regulators. Some may remember I recently went through a spat of
rewiring the alternator connections, and everything checks out by the book,
so to speak. I have installed a voltmeter, but not actually (checked it with
a multimeter yet) and it consistently reads 15 volts. Every once in a blue
moon it might drop to 13-14.

The truck is seldom driven very long at once. About the most is in 3 45-min.
legs within 3-4 hours once a week. I have not completely toasted a battery
yet, but it has more than once gotten enough juice to get warm and bubble
electrolyte. A curiosity is that despite this, the little "eye" that
indicates charge shows it needs charge. (yes, the fluid level is where it
should be). I would like to figure this one out, since 1140-amp batteries
cost more than alternators do.

Any suggestions?

Jim E.



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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:53:32 -0500
From: "John Peck"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Battery dyeing

I had the same problem with my 69. For some odd reason every so often I
tried to start the truck but the battery was dead. It would be OK one
morning and the next time it would be dead. Finally my neighbor hollered up
to me that my break lights was still on after I exited the truck. Stupid
break light switch was worn out of adjustment. After correcting this had no
problems. Also, a note about ammeter readings. If you have a modern
digital radio you will get a current reading because its station memory is
held in by the battery. Another thing to check is its cranking volts once
its charge up. This is a good indication of a bad cell. Voltage should
drop no more than 10VDC or so. If it dips way lower you more than likely
have a bad cell or two. Another good measurement is resistance to ground
measured on the POS cable once disconnected from battery and the key switch
off then with the key switch on. Check there and then at the regulator.
Sorry I don't have any measurements for this but I'm sure we get some good
samplings from the list. If you have a low resistive load measured with the
key switch off then the problem can only be located by disconnecting things
one at a time. This can create a huge headache so good luck. One help is
the new battery minders that disconnect the battery automatically so you
have enough juice to start the truck no matter what's draining it. I'm
thinking about putting one of these on because I abandon my truck in remote
locations for canoe trips. It would be a major headache to come back to the
truck after 50 or so miles of river and be left stranded.



John Peck
johnpeck visuallink.com

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 07:58:06 -0600
From: "Smith, Brian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 302 heads on a 351W

List,
I know these will fit however I am going to have to drill out the head bolt
holes (302 uses 1/2" bolts, 351 used 5/8"). Am I in any danger of drilling
through a water jacket?

Brian H. Smith
1959 TR3
1972 Spitfire IV
1977 TR7
Lake Charles, LA
1967 F100.
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 07:02:16 -0700
From: "Miska, Richard L (Rick)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Biggest engine

My 76 crewcab 2wd has 460.


> At 11:32 AM 1/28/99 -0600, you wrote:
> >Seems like someone asked what the largest available engine was for a
> >particular year, (76?) And it seems like I answered 390, but no one
> >corrected me. When I went home I grabbed my Ford Truck Red Book which
> >covers through 76 or so and it listed a 460 available in the 2wd. Not
> sure
> >how common or correct this is, but thought I would put it out there and
> see
> >if anyone knew of anything to contradict that ...
>
> That would be a "Trailer Special" in the F150's, I've been lookin' for
> one.....
>
> Steve & the Rockette
>
>
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:21:36 -0500 (EST)
From: CLARE WATERMAN
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical

thanks for the responses. much easier to figuer out the problem when its
light out! turned out to be a loose wire at the starter relay.
easy. i didnt get the whole day off, but my boss did lend me his car to take the afternoon to get it
fixed. took 20 min to fix, and it was 75 deg and sunny out, so i didnt
get back to work right away....


Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of North Carolina
Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280

T: (919)-962-2354
F: (919)-962-1625


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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:44:15 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Solenoid on carb, 79 F150

>No! No! Don't adjust that screw on an FI engine to adjust the idle, it
>is
>a mechanical stop only! The computer adjusts the idle, if it's off,
>there
>is something broken!

No, that's not quite what I meant ... if you buy aftermarket it may not be
adjusted properly and cause the idle to kill the car, I didn't mean to
adjust the idle with it ...


Sorry for the confusion.


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:49:09 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical

>fixed. took 20 min to fix, and it was 75 deg and sunny out, so i didnt
>get back to work right away....
>
Congratulations ... looks like you've got it pretty rough ... 75 (mutter
mutter)....


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 06:53:18 -0800
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical

Congrats from rainy Seattle also. Glad it was so simple.

Tim
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:02:42 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Balance of 360 & 390

Hey Forrest,

Azie is right about mixing and matching flywheels and dampers between the 360
and 390. I ran 360 parts on my 390 for probably 15 years. One thing to check,
maybe somebody with a parts book is out there, is that the original 390
flywheels might be a little heavier......

The reason I'm thinking this is that I recently bought a new flywheel from
Ford for a 360. When we went to bolt on a new clutch for a 390, it wouldn't
fit....the bolt holes didn't line up.....so, I went back to Ford and swapped
them for a 390 flywheel that bolted right up to the new clutch and seemed to
me to be heavier. I've noticed an extra "flywheel effect" as well....

So, based on this experience, if you are going to use a 360 flywheel on the
390, I think you'll need to use a 360 clutch as well, and you'll have no
troubles......

Now, I don't know if my case was isolated or what, but I'll bet there are
people here who have swapped 390 and 390 clutches with no trouble....but I'm
still pretty sure there are different Ford part numbers for the two
flywheels....maybe there were optional sizes or "duty ratings" for clutches
that made the difference on bolt hole spacings.....

CJ (Colorado Jeff)










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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:19:38 -0500
From: adam.hicks ppctx.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Battery problems - Thanks!


Thank everyone for the GREAT response. There were about four
different ideas that I haven't considered. I love this list!

Adam

P.S. It's raining like a here
in Ft. Worth, but as soon as I get a second of sun, I'm gonna try
every one of these ideas. Thanks again!
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:44:32 -0500
From: Joe DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 65 pickup matchbox

Well for all you collectors...Motor trend and racing champions
has released a 1965 Ford f-100 matchbox(only 9,999) are being made
I found mine here in Pennsylvania at a Target(like a wal-mart) type
store....If anybody needs one and would like me to pick one up for
you email me and we can work something out..And now if they would only
come out with a 67-72 truck :)
Joe
68 4x4
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:46:29 -0500
From: Joe DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering column questions???

Can anybody tell me if I can use a 2wd steering column in a 4x4 truck??
I want to switch my 68 over to an auto and I have a 70 2wd truck
in the junkyard that has an auto column in it..I know the steering
shafts are diffeent but is there anything i'm missing???
Joe
68 4x4
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:54:13 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 Merc

Ben Williams writes: >> Anybody interested in a lowered '66 Merc shortbox?

Might be. Where are you (is the truck)??? Put a $ figure on it. Also some
particulars of the truck. Color? Tranny? How was it lowered - Kit or what??
You've already stated it has a 400 engine. Any power accessories??

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:58:13 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engines

William Hart writes: >>When I went home I grabbed my Ford Truck Red Book which
covers through 76 or so and it listed a 460 available in the 2wd. Not sure
how common or correct this is, but thought I would put it out there and see
if anyone knew of anything to contradict that ...

This has been an ongoing debate for a long time. Someone on this list says he
has a '73 with a 460 stock. I have a complete set of manuals for the '77 series
and it doesn't include the 460. Strange!!!???


Azie


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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:22:40 -0800
From: Eric
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AOD

Friends
I'd like to use a 460 pattern 5 speed trans with my FE, but of course it
won't bolt up.
There are adapters available for many other applications, like Chevy to
Buick and for a lot of
engine swaps popular in the fifties. I believe the concept is quite simple:
a bellhousing ring
with a different pattern on each side and (maybe) a flywheel spacer.
Is there a reason that this method can't be used in mating an FE to a 460
transmission?
Eric

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:26:54 -0700
From: "Miska, Richard L (Rick)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 pickup matchbox

I think it is a 66. I bought one for my dad, but would like one for myself.
Rick

> ----------
> From: Joe DeLaurentis[SMTP:shoman p3.net]
> Sent: Friday, January 29, 1999 8:44 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 65 pickup matchbox
>
> Well for all you collectors...Motor trend and racing champions
> has released a 1965 Ford f-100 matchbox(only 9,999) are being made
> I found mine here in Pennsylvania at a Target(like a wal-mart) type
> store....If anybody needs one and would like me to pick one up for
> you email me and we can work something out..And now if they would only
> come out with a 67-72 truck :)
> Joe
> 68 4x4
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>
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:26:59 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ole Man, Oh No!

Look out man, I hear the thunder of the mighty Navistar and the chunk of
the mighty spur gear going into granny. I think he's fixin' to your a**
down!!!

> OH NO!! I've angered the great God of the FTE list!!! 8-) Hehehe
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 11:28:01 -0500 (EST)
From: "Sean O'Malley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - How do synchros work?

So...

I've always wondered how exactly the syncrhonizers on a manual transmission
do their job. At the moment, I have a T-18 that sometimes grinds
horribly when going into fourth, so I'd be especially
interested in hearing a description of that particular beast...

regards,

- --sean
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:24:02 -0800
From: Sean Hess
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Driveline Demise?

Does this sound like a failing driveline to y'all?

The truck ('69 F250 with a C-6) sounds fine as I accelerate from a stop up to
about 35-40 mph, but then it starts this humming or drumming sound that seems
to come from the back of the truck. It seems to change pitch a little as I
accelerate and de-accelerate, but not dramatically. If I come to a stop and
start again, the sound is gone until I get to 35-40 mph again.

If it is the driveline, how should I diagnose it?

Dr. Hess

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Sean Hess, Ph.D.
Mazama Cultural Resource Services (MCRS)
10910 N.E. Knott St.
Portland, Oregon 97220
(503) 261-8591
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:34:04 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Driveline Demise?

>The truck ('69 F250 with a C-6) sounds fine as I accelerate from a stop up to
>about 35-40 mph, but then it starts this humming or drumming sound that seems
>to come from the back of the truck. It seems to change pitch a little as I
>accelerate and de-accelerate, but not dramatically. If I come to a stop and
>start again, the sound is gone until I get to 35-40 mph again.
>
>If it is the driveline, how should I diagnose it?
>
There are obviously several parts to the driveline, my hunch is that its
the rearend startin to give out on ya, but to start things out, try runnin
up til it makes the noice, then put it in neutral, that will definitely
remove the engine (unless the noise stops, then you've found the problem)
... another thing to try might be putting it in neutral and see how far the
drive shaft will turn with the wheels still on the ground, you shouldn't
get much play, but if you can really make it go clunk, then its probably
the rearend ... I'm sure others have better ways of diagnosing this ....

Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:38:43 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 f250 4x4 for sale

Hi Jeff

The 65-66 F250 4x4's use the same frame and cab design as the 61-64 trucks.
I don't know about where you are at but here in good old California there is a
case of Golden Fender on all old 4x4's that are solid. Serveral late 70's F-250
4x's have come up $4-5K running nothing fancy and a 65-66 is almost unheard of.
As for the rust, it sounds like rust as in the metal is gone, not just surface
rust.

If it really has been cut up it could be a fun truck to build up. If it is
really close to stock it would be great to restore. All in all a great project
for someone who loves 4x's.

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


99 Contour SE Sport
63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:40:22 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How do synchros work?

At 10:28 AM 1/29/99 , you wrote:
>So...
>
>I've always wondered how exactly the syncrhonizers on a manual transmission
>do their job. At the moment, I have a T-18 that sometimes grinds
>horribly when going into fourth, so I'd be especially
>interested in hearing a description of that particular beast...
>

Well according to one book I have :

A synchronized or synchromesh transmission has small friction clutches,
usually cone type, that engage when a shift is initiated. The resulting
frictional torque is used to prevent engagement of the shift collar until
the rotational speed of the collar and gear are nearly the same, i.e,
syncrhonized. When synchronization occurs, the frictional torque reduces
and the shifter collar can then be engaged with the gear to complete the sift.

John B. Liljedahl et al "Tractors and Their Power Units Fourth Edition"

There's a cool diagram to go with it, but I won't be able to scan that in
for a couple hours if you want it ....




Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 11:41:56 -0500
From: "John MacNamara"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Engines

Azie: I had a friend who had one of the 2wd mid 70's trucks and it had a
460 so I know they came in trucks before 78.


Thanks
John MacNamara

805 477 2536 wk
805 577 2768 fx
ESN 495-2536
jmacnam nortelnetworks.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From:am14 daimlerchrysler.com [SMTP:am14 daimlerchrysler.com]
> Sent:Friday, January 29, 1999 7:58 AM
> To:61-79-list Ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 61-79 - Engines
>
> William Hart writes: >>When I went home I grabbed my Ford Truck Red Book
> which
> covers through 76 or so and it listed a 460 available in the 2wd. Not
> sure
> how common or correct this is, but thought I would put it out there and
> see
> if anyone knew of anything to contradict that ...
>
> This has been an ongoing debate for a long time. Someone on this list
> says he
> has a '73 with a 460 stock. I have a complete set of manuals for the '77
> series
> and it doesn't include the 460. Strange!!!???
>
>
> Azie
>
>
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 11:35:59 -0500 (EST)
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Driveline Demise?

My hunch is with a driveshaft universal. Cheap to fix, and easy to check.
Symptoms are very close to that.

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com


> >The truck ('69 F250 with a C-6) sounds fine as I accelerate from a stop up to
> >about 35-40 mph, but then it starts this humming or drumming sound that seems
> >to come from the back of the truck. It seems to change pitch a little as I
> >accelerate and de-accelerate, but not dramatically. If I come to a stop and
> >start again, the sound is gone until I get to 35-40 mph again.
> >
> >If it is the driveline, how should I diagnose it?
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:45:13 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sad anecdotes

Thanks for your message at 10:16 PM 1/28/99 -0800, Art Verling. Your
message was:
>Tom
>I have a catalog from Sacramento Vintage Ford 1-888-FORD-100 and they have
some of
>those spiffy conversion kits to put a C*/vy motor in any Ford truck :-(
WHAAAT?

>I borrowed a nipple extractor from a plumber friend and got it out.

Now that's gotta HURT!
>
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:50:16 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical

Thanks for your message at 09:21 AM 1/29/99 -0500, CLARE WATERMAN. Your
message was:
took 20 min to fix, and it was 75 deg and sunny out, so i didnt
>get back to work right away....

Just what happened to the American Work Ethic, anyway ? :-)

>Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
>Department of Biology
>University of North Carolina
>Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280
>
>T: (919)-962-2354
>F: (919)-962-1625
>
>
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>
>
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 11:16:37 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 65-66-F250 4X4's

Jeff,

When you say SWB, what is the wheelbase? All F250 4X4's of that era had
a 120 inch WB. Some had stepside beds, others had the '57-'60 sytleside
bed, and some had stake beds from the factory. But all used the 120
inch chassis AFAIK. It has more in common with the '61-64 frame than
the '65-'66. It should have a front engine mount and two mounts under a
cast iron bellhousing. In '66 it should be a 240, or 300 if it's a six,
and a 352 if it's an eight. The trannys would be a standard 3-speed, a
T-18 with reverse to the right and up, or an NP435 with a shorter throw
and reverse over and down. No automatics. The transfer case will be a
Dana 24.

It should have a Dana 60 with 4.56 gears, and a Dana 44 with 4.55 gears,
closed knuckle front end, and worm and roller steering. No power
steering. The trans hump on mine is relatively flat, but the t-case
stick comes up even with the tranny stick when in second, and the t'case
is in 2 hi. It also won't have self-adjusting brakes.

Rust can kill one of these trucks, replacement panels can get a little
pricey. You can fiberglass it if it isn't under structural stress.

$2000 isn't a lot of money for one of these if it runs good and has no
major faults. But, if it's a converted 2WD, rusty, or most of the
original geartrain is gone, the ball game changes. The collector value
is gone for the most part, the issue becomes utility then. If it runs
good and everything works, it isn't a bad buy, it will just not be worth
as much as an original. The top price for a fully restored original is
$6000-$7000. You can break the bank pretty quick when you have to start
rebuilding things.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:22:42 -0800
From: "Wiltzius, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck bed

LOBUCK,

Thanks but I'm hoping to find one of those slab sided short beds.
I kind of figured that my truck had a stepside originally according to the
info I got from Dearborn.
It has a REAL heavy duty(3/8" angle frame and 3/16" plate deck) homemade
flat bed on it now.
Thanks again for the offer.
Tom,
Reno, NV

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:43:10 -0800
From: "Wiltzius, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Putting Arts Engine in

Hey Art,
sounds like fun - I've got a few chores to do myself and am hoping to get my
header gaskets
put on too. I'll give you a call - maybe I can come by.

I've got a Sacto Vint Ford Catalog that is fairly soaked with drool. Haven't
bought anything there yet

Tom
Reno,NV

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:49:22 -0000
From: "Steven or Montessa Moore"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engines

chilton's says the first year of the 460 was in 1974, and does not specify
f100 or f250 so maybe it came in either,
Hope that helps in your quest for knowledge
- -----Original Message-----
From: John MacNamara
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 4:46 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Engines


>Azie: I had a friend who had one of the 2wd mid 70's trucks and it had a
>460 so I know they came in trucks before 78.
>
>
>Thanks
>John MacNamara
>
>805 477 2536 wk
>805 577 2768 fx
>ESN 495-2536
>jmacnam nortelnetworks.com
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com [SMTP:am14 daimlerchrysler.com]
>> Sent: Friday, January 29, 1999 7:58 AM
>> To: 61-79-list Ford-trucks.com
>> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engines
>>
>> William Hart writes: >>When I went home I grabbed my Ford Truck Red Book
>> which
>> covers through 76 or so and it listed a 460 available in the 2wd. Not
>> sure
>> how common or correct this is, but thought I would put it out there and
>> see
>> if anyone knew of anything to contradict that ...
>>
>> This has been an ongoing debate for a long time. Someone on this list
>> says he
>> has a '73 with a 460 stock. I have a complete set of manuals for the '77
>> series
>> and it doesn't include the 460. Strange!!!???
>>
>>
>> Azie
>>
>>
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:53:57 PST
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stranded '66 Merc

Check for water in your gas. Condensation can be a problem especially
when temps are around freezing and the tank is less than full
Don Jones


______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:52:38 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How do synchros work?

Basically the synchros are are just a little cones with teeth that ride on
the same shaft as the gears. When you move the shift fork it slides a shift
collar across the shaft which has teeth which match the synchro. The first
synchro starts spinning and sliding. It engages the 2nd synchro which starts
spinning the next gear so that the speeds of the 2 gears are nearly
identical before they're fully engaged. I've never taken a T18 apart so I
really can't help you with the particulars.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Sean O'Malley
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 8:31 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - How do synchros work?


>So...
>
>I've always wondered how exactly the syncrhonizers on a manual transmission
>do their job. At the moment, I have a T-18 that sometimes grinds
>horribly when going into fourth, so I'd be especially
>interested in hearing a description of that particular beast...
>


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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 12:52:52 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - tranny coolers

This is not my area of expertise, but...... You guys/gals trying to cool
down your trannies need to determine the correct operating range. Although
excess heat is typically the problem, in some climates it would be possible
to get your auto tranny running too cold. That will cause damage, too, due
to poor oil circulation. A good way to break your reverse band is to slam
that puppy into reverse on a real cold day immediately after startup. I've
never done it or seen it, but my uncle told plenty of stories. His advice
was that a few seconds (again depending on air temp) warm up time was more
important to an auto tranny than to the engine.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 11:07:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: rositch SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Driveline Demise?

Sean,
That sounds like the pinion bearing going out (rear differential).
Crawl under there and try to wiggle the drive shaft at the rear (should
be solid- no play in it).

Regards,
Don Rositch
'66 F250 NASCAR Shop Truck
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 11:33:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthlube Info

> I have information from Mobil's web site about the synthetic/synthesized
> lubes I used on my '65 if anyone is interested. It's a little long, so
> I am reluctant to post it without permission from the group. I can
> e-mail it to anyone who wants it.

Or Bill, just post the URL, and mail it to Azie. Daimler doesn't do
browsers. Speaking of, I guess Gary might have a Volvo in his (FoMoCo)
address when he returns
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 11:22:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic Lube

[Bill's continuing saga of Mobil-1 Gear lube snipped]

> As I said in my last posting, I put Mobil synthetic SAE50 in my trans
> and transfer case yesterday. Today I drained both axles and put in
> Mobil synthetic 75-90 wt which is also what we use in the over-the-road
> trucks at work.
>
> I just hope
> that I'm not hurting the seals.

Bill, I've changed over many engines to Mobil-1, I don't have any
leaks that I can blame on the oil:

#1: 88 Aerostar, 3.0 V-6, switched at 90k miles. I never had leak
problems with this motor, before or after the change. Sold last year,
at 150k, still no problems.

#2: 94 tbird, 3.8 V6. Switched at initial oil change, 2500 miles.
Currently 80k, no leaks, engine is very clean inside.

#3: 70 F250, FE 360. Well, the intake still leaks :-). PO did a valve
job, probably used the seals that came in the kit, manifold leaks
front and rear. Switched at around 100k, currently 150k.

#4: 87 Bronco II: 2.9 V6, a well known leaker. 110k miles at purchase,
it leaked a quart every 7-800 miles. Changed valve cover gaskets (old
ones were toast), and went to mobil-1. Currently about 135k miles,
goes 5k between changes on about 1/2 a quart:-).

#5: 83 ni$ 280ZX, switchd after purchase at 120k, currently (still)
torn down at 155k. Didn't have any leaks, but the engine was using a
quart every 1500 miles or so. Tear down showed abuse, scored bearings,
but very little sludge. (Torn down due to cracked head). Needed to
sleave the rear main seal, had quite a grove. I'm amazed the front
seal didn't leak being as hard as a rock, it actually crumbled to
pieces upon removal from the timing cover.

#6: 96 Bronco, 351. Switched after purchase at 26k. The PO had the
Ford specified 5k mile changes, but I was amazed at the condition of
the mineral oil when I did my first change at 30k. Yuk. In fact, I'm
going to do a second soon, (3250), just to get rid of the crap.

Why do I use it? There is no doubt in my mind it is a superior product.
Is it worth it? Maybe not, but with the number of vehicles I maintain,
I just can't be doing dino oil changes on 3k intervals, I'd never get
out of my garage. BTW, the best price I've found is at Target, they
sometimes have 5 qt bottles for $16.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 14:01:14 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Won't start easily, since weather warmed up

Kirk,

An often overlooked culprit in poor starting and poor performance is a bad
tank of gasoline. It doesn't happen often, but it still happens. Think back
to whether you just filled the tank when the starting problems began. If
you think this is the problem, use some STP gas treatment or something
similar.

On another possibility, if the power valve or accelerator pump (same thing)
is bad, it won't prime the carb. Usually this problem shows up when it gets
cold and the rubber is not as pliant.

Speaking of humidity, a cracked distributor cap will let condensation form
up on the contacts causing hard or no starts and also allow cross firing.
Spray the inside with WD40. If your truck then starts normally, replace the
cap and rotor.

Good luck!

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 14:20:03 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!

Adam,

I would check the voltage across the battery with a volt/ohm meter with
everything connected and the truck off. It should be 12 volts. Anything
else and your battery is toast. I would then check the voltage across the
battery with the truck running. It should be 13.8 volts. If it is much
higher you will boil the acid/water out of the battery. Won't work any
more. If it is still 12 volts, then the charging system isn't working. Dead
battery over and over again. I forgot what year model you are working on.
On a system with a mechanical regulator, you may have to go to 900-1000
rpms to get your 13.8 volts. On an electronically controlled system, it
should show 13.8 on a digital meter no matter what rpm or what accessories
are running. If you have a mechanical regulator and no meter, you can check
your regulator with a partner. Start the truck. Turn on the headlights.
Look at the headlights while a helper slowly increases engine speed. If the
lights get brighter, the regulator is working, but may be out of
adjustment. If they stay sort of yellow, the system isn't charging. Even
standard seled beams should show a white light at 13.8 volts.

Good Luck!!!!


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 14:10:54 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - idle adjuster on FI

Thank you, Pat!!!! True for most multi port EFI and TBI. There are probably
some older mechanical FI systems that can be adjusted with an idle screw,
but none I have ever seen that are computer eqiupped.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 14:13:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Battery TOO live

Jim asks:
> Reading about dying batteries prompts me to inquire:
>
> Mine is consistently overcharging the battery. I have now been through three
> voltage regulators. Some may remember I recently went through a spat of
> rewiring the alternator connections, and everything checks out by the book,
> so to speak. I have installed a voltmeter, but not actually (checked it with
> a multimeter yet) and it consistently reads 15 volts. Every once in a blue
> moon it might drop to 13-14.

Your in luck, Jim. This weekend just happens to be - a blue moon. In
fact, your so lucky, there's another in March:-)

> The truck is seldom driven very long at once. About the most is in 3 45-min.
> legs within 3-4 hours once a week. I have not completely toasted a battery
> yet, but it has more than once gotten enough juice to get warm and bubble
> electrolyte. A curiosity is that despite this, the little "eye" that
> indicates charge shows it needs charge. (yes, the fluid level is where it
> should be). I would like to figure this one out, since 1140-amp batteries
> cost more than alternators do.
>
> Any suggestions?

Well, since you've done the obvious (regulator(s)), have you had your
battery checked out (load tested). Maybe you have a marginal cell.

Do you have a battery isolator(two batteries)? If you do, remember that
the voltage at the alternator will be higher to compensate for the
voltage loss (diode drop) in the isolator.

Alternators put out current, voltage is developed across the load. In
our case, primarily the battery. So, it seems that your regulator is
increasing the current output from the alternator until it sees the
correct voltage at the load. Now, I know you just rewired, and you
didn't use Stu's directions (he lied), but are all the high current
connections good? There needs to be a very good connection between
the BAT terminal and the battery, and the battery and A+ terminal
at the regulator. Also, the regulator, alternator, and battery grounds.
Check out Steve's wiring diagram at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/truck/fordchrg.jpg

Notice the big, fat wire from the BAT term to the battery. Also, notice
where the A+ wire connects in at battery itself, if it's hooked to
the wrong side of the shunt you could have problems. Oh yea, Steve
lied too. In our trucks with the (mostly inoperable) ammeter, the
'I' terminal at the regulator isn't used, and the 'S' term goes
somewhere that escapes me sitting here at work:-(
- --
Pat Brwon
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:33:32 -0800
From: Al Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Nered Seat Belts

Guys: Anybody got a set of front high back seat belts and all the
hardware that goes with them for sale to fit a 78 Ford van I am
resurecting? I need it all bolts,etc. TIA

Al
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 19:22:49 -0500
From: j arnold
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Balance of 360 & 390

I agree with CJ. When we went to buy the clutch for my 429 (with a 390
flywheel) i bought an 11" clutch for a 360. The bolt holes didn't line up
and i had to end up going with a "heavy duty" 11 1/2" clutch made for a
series of 390's offered in wrecker trucks in the late 60's (not sure what
made the engines special, that just what the parts guy at Ford told me).
It bolted right up, and has been a good clutch for all 2000 miles that i
have put on it! Hope this helps.

- -Bud
'79 F-250 429 Police Interceptor, T-18
'76 F-100 302, 3-speed (For Sale)

At 10:02 AM 1/29/99 EST, you wrote:
>Hey Forrest,
>
>Azie is right about mixing and matching flywheels and dampers between the 360
>and 390. I ran 360 parts on my 390 for probably 15 years. One thing to check,
>maybe somebody with a parts book is out there, is that the original 390
>flywheels might be a little heavier......
>
>The reason I'm thinking this is that I recently bought a new flywheel from
>Ford for a 360. When we went to bolt on a new clutch for a 390, it wouldn't
>fit....the bolt holes didn't line up.....so, I went back to Ford and swapped
>them for a 390 flywheel that bolted right up to the new clutch and seemed to
>me to be heavier. I've noticed an extra "flywheel effect" as well....
>
>So, based on this experience, if you are going to use a 360 flywheel on the
>390, I think you'll need to use a 360 clutch as well, and you'll have no
>troubles......
>
>Now, I don't know if my case was isolated or what, but I'll bet there are
>people here who have swapped 390 and 390 clutches with no trouble....but I'm
>still pretty sure there are different Ford part numbers for the two
>flywheels....maybe there were optional sizes or "duty ratings" for clutches
>that made the difference on bolt hole spacings.....
>
>CJ (Colorado Jeff)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 19:51:23 -0500
From: j arnold
Subject: FTE 61-79 - probs probs probs...

Well, hope some of the gurus of the list can help me out a little here.
First off, i just have a question. Anybody out here have a 429/460 mated
to a standard transmission? I have heard from a couple of people that when
they put their 429/460's with granny 4-speeds, they can't keep the throwout
bearing from rattling. I have my ol' 429 Police with a T-18 behind it, and
at about 55-60 mph, there comes a little rattle from around the
bellhousing. I think it is the throwout bearing, but i am fairly sure it
is the right one and brand new, because i just changed it out (had the
wrong one in when i first fired the new engine). Is there any way to
prevent this? any way to just adjust the rattle out? do i still have the
wrong bearing? my second question is a little more difficult, so here is a
chance for all the Supreme Ford Men like Azie to show off with their
supreme knowledge of the wonderful invention that is FORD. When I hammer
down on my truck quite a bit (give it enough gas to pop open the back two
barrels on the carb), in 2nd and 3rd gear and when the rpm's get to about
2500-3000, there is a pop, a brief slack in power, and something hits the
bottom of the truck. At first, i thought i had just thrown up a pebble
from the road and it hit my floorpans, but it has done it every time i have
experimented by hammering down (3 or 4 times). I have never tried to keep
on accelerating after this happened, as it is usually just an instant
before i shift, and i am terrified i am going to break something major.
Anybody know what this is? kind of aggravating, and it certainly doesn't
feel like it is good. I have this strange but hollow theory that it has
something to do with my transmission, as i am aware a granny 4-speed was
not made to be treated like a race transmission and this particular T-18
has been giving me troubles since i put it in. Do you think that if I
changed the oil to SAE50, would it help it, as the previous thread about
tranny oil suggests...i was planning on changing my tranny oil over
anyways. Any and all ideas would be very welcome. Any way i might be able
to fix this without taking her to the shop? this truck is my pride and
joy, and i try to keep her out of the shop as much as possible, and try to
fix as much as i can myself. maybe that's why so many things are wrong!
:( Thanks alot!

- -Bud
'79 F-250 429 Police Interceptor, T-18
'76 F-100 302, 3-speed (For Sale)

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 18:36:21 PST
From: "James Varela"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 65 ford f-100

I have a 65 f-100. It has a 73 302 for power.
Can anyone tell me where to hook the two wires from the alternator one
is red and one is white. It is a Remy-Delco and has the voltage
regulator built in it. The alternator works on the bench test fine but
will not charge when on engine and I don't know where to hook the two
wires.

By the way my conversion to front disk brakes was a success and pretty
easy thanks to this site. Thanks too all

FORD RULES

______________________________________________________
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