61-79-list-digest Friday, January 29 1999 Volume 03 : Number 031



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - carb question
FTE 61-79 - Ole Man
FTE 61-79 - daed battery
Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ole Man
FTE 61-79 - STOCK
FTE 61-79 - Won't start
FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!
FTE 61-79 - Solenoid on carb, 79 F150
Re: FTE 61-79 - carb question
Re: FTE 61-79 - help
Re: FTE 61-79 - Solenoid on carb, 79 F150
FTE 61-79 - radiator
FTE 61-79 - Balance of 360 & 390
FTE 61-79 - Won't start easily, since weather warmed up
Re: FTE 61-79 - Won't start easily, since weather warmed up
FTE 61-79 - Stranded '66 Merc - kinda long
Re: FTE 61-79 - Stranded '66 Merc - kinda long
Re: FTE 61-79 - Stranded '66 Merc - kinda long
FTE 61-79 - '77 Ford F250 w/460 Distributor Specs
FTE 61-79 - Biggest engine
FTE 61-79 - RE:hard starting when hot
Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical
RE: FTE 61-79 - AODE
Re: FTE 61-79 - carb question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum advance/retard
Re: FTE 61-79 - carb question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Biggest engine
FTE 61-79 - carb question
FTE 61-79 - Alternator dead?
FTE 61-79 - Re reman parts
FTE 61-79 - '75 f-250 Super Cab for sale
FTE 61-79 - Re: Tom (from Reno), your bed
Re: FTE 61-79 - help
Re: FTE 61-79 - Biggest engine
Re: FTE 61-79 - help
FTE 61-79 - 66 f250 4x4 for sale
Re: FTE 61-79 - Solenoid on carb, 79 F150
FTE 61-79 - RE:Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!
FTE 61-79 - Hot August Nights
FTE 61-79 - Synthetic Lube
FTE 61-79 - 4x4 Power article
FTE 61-79 - Synthlube Info

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 06:49:17 EST
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - carb question

could it be an anti dieseling solenoid?

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:38:54 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ole Man

Tony Marino writes concerning Stu Varner: >>Hey, You know, I figured I deserved
it considering it took you 2 and a half hours to learn how to turn it on old
man!! 8-):

And what does that make me if Stu is Ole Man??? Ancient History or what???

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:51:23 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - daed battery

Adam Hicks writes: >> Anybody know of anything that might be causing my battery
to either
short out or drain completely? I'm going to try and give it a jump
later, but last time a jump wouldn't do it. Had to replace the
battery.

You apparently have a short in something or you have something pulling current
when all systems are supposed to be off.

Get your battery charged. When you install it, notice very carefully that when
you connect the 2nd cable(I always connect the pos post 1st, but not all folks
do it this way) if you get a spark. Just lay the last cable you connect up to
the post carefully and look/listen for a spark. Do it in the dark if you can't
be sure. If you are getting a spark with everything in the vehicle off, then
you have a problem. Isolate it by disconnecting things one at a time until you
do not get a spark when the last cable touches the post to the battery. Start
the isolation process by disconnecting the last things that have been added to
your truck.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:54:27 -0500 (EST)
From: CLARE WATERMAN
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical

Pat-

thanks for the tips- i'll get back to you later today if i need more
help.

clare

On Wed, 27 Jan 1999, Pat Brown wrote:

> Clare cried out:
> > when i got off work i went to start my truck (71 f250 c6 360) and
> > ---nothing! maybe a
> > click. i tightened all cables at the battery, alternator, starter, and
> > starter relay. The lights would come on but then when i turned the
> > ignition-
> > they went out-so i tried to jump it.
>
> Take your battery cables off and CLEAN them really good - Do you
> have a battery post cleaner? If not, use some sandpaper or something
> so that you see nice shiny metal on both the battery and the clamp
> before assembling them.
>
> What it sounds like you have is too high a resistance in your
> connections, everything looks alright with a small load (headlights
> on). Add a big load (starter), all the voltage is dropped across
> this extra resistance (lights go off).
>
> Another possibility is a jammed starter. If cleaning the cables
> doesn't work, try rocking or turning over the engine with a socket
> on the front crank pulley bolt. If you can turn it, and the starter
> still won't turn over, then the starter isn't jammed. A jammed
> starter will usually cause the lights to go very dim, but not out.
>
> Next could be a dead starter solinoid, but this wouldn't affect
> the lights . . .
>
> Last possibility, a shorted out starter motor. Again, lights would
> go very dim, but probably not out. Try sticking your voltmeter
> leads right onto the battery posts, important, notice battery POSTS,
> not cables or clamps. Should read about 12-13 volts. Now while holding
> the leads there, have someone turn on the lights, the voltage should
> remain about the same. Now have them turn the engine. If the voltage
> drops a bunch (below 9-10 volts), then your battery is may be shot
> or dead. If the voltage remains above 10-12 volts, then your starter
> is shot.
>
> [snip]
>
> > i'm really up the creek- i have the
> > exhaust torn off my spouse's jeep, and my lincoln is torn up too.
> > guess i
> > cant go to work tomorrow....
>
> Now, Now, we all have to go to work tomorrow. Don't we??? You mean
> I can stay home to work on my trucks?
> --
> Pat Brown
> Sebastopol, California
>
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>



Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of North Carolina
Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280

T: (919)-962-2354
F: (919)-962-1625


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:50:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ole Man


> Tony Marino writes concerning Stu Varner: >>Hey, You know, I figured I deserved
> it considering it took you 2 and a half hours to learn how to turn it on old
> man!! 8-):
>
> And what does that make me if Stu is Ole Man??? Ancient History or what???
>
> Azie
> Ardmore, Al.

OH NO!! I've angered the great God of the FTE list!!! 8-) Hehehe


Tony


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 09:08:55 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - STOCK

Dave R(M block Devotee) writes: >>Good thing you said STOCK!

I believe anything can be MADE TO PERFORM. It just takes less with some than
others, and some will perform much better than others with like mods. Thats
one of the interesting things about performance building that keeps me
interested. Always learning something.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 09:18:08 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Won't start

Dr Storer writes: >> The lights would come on but then when i turned the
ignition- they went out-

This surely indicates to me that your battery is dead. Are you sure you got
GOOD connections when you tried to jump it off???? Try installing a known good
battery from one of your other vehicles and see what happens... Trial and
elemination method, if you will. If you still can't get it to crank after
installing a known good battery, then we'll help you look in other directions.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:25:53 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!

> First off... I know it's not the alternator...
>
> I had a battery in my 460 F150 and it went dead. It was only a few
> months old, but was a pretty weak battery (that's what the guy
> recommended!) Anyways, I go and buy a mondo Duralast 900 cranking
> amp battery the size of a dog house and the thing fires right up.
> I started the truck two days ago without any problems. Today the
> battery is dead as a doornail. No clicks, not even trying. The
> only thing I've done lately to the truck is install a Mallory High
> perf. coil and it went in without any problems with the factory
> wiring (except for the wire to my tach)
>
> Anybody know of anything that might be causing my battery to either
> short out or drain completely? I'm going to try and give it a jump
> later, but last time a jump wouldn't do it. Had to replace the
> battery.
>
> $75.00 every few weeks can get expensive for a truck I drive once a
> month!!!
>
Adam, you are looking for a drain that is intermittant, but when it comes
on, it really drains the battery in a hurry. I suspect the voltage
regulator. One of the jobs of the regulator is to disconnect the battery
from the alternator when the key is off, otherwise the battery will drain
back thru the windings. On the older, mechanical, regulators, which your
truck might very well have if it is original, this is accomplished by a
relay. Your relay is probably sticking intermittantly.

You can take the cover off and hose it down with WD-40 as a test or just
get one of the newer solid state type regulators. I think they are about
$10 at Autozone.

By the way if you already have a solid state regulator, it still could be
the problem. While less likely to happen, I have seen it, even on the
internal type.

Good luck.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:25:55 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Solenoid on carb, 79 F150

>>What does the selinode on the front drivers side of the carb do? I was told
>>it is for the air conditioning, but the truck (79 f150 400m) does not have
>>A/C.
>
>It's so your engine doesn't continue to run after turning off the key.
>
Deacon is right but let me elaborate on that a little.

During the late '70s and early 80s, the manufacturers had to lean out the
carbs big-time to meet emission regulations. This made the engines idle
poorly so the throttle had to be opened up more to compensate. Now, when
you have an engine that runs-on after you turn off the key, you have to
figure it is getting air from somewhere. No air, no fire. This can be a
vacuum leak OR it can be that the throttle plates are not closed
completely. Well, if your idle screw is adjusted to make the truck idle on
one of these vehicles with such a lean setting, then the throttle plates
are gonna stay open when you turn the key off which is just the same to the
engine as a vacuum leak.

So, what they did was put a solenoid on there to open up the throttle and
make the engine idle when the key is on, but when you turn off the key, the
solenoid releases and closes the throttle plates, which keeps the engine
from running-on.

Perhaps more than you wanted to know but there it is...
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:27:26 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - carb question

At 04:05 AM 1/28/99 , you wrote:
>>What does the selinode on the front drivers side of the carb do? I was told
>>it is for the air conditioning, but the truck (79 f150 400m) does not have
>A/C.
>
>It's so your engine doesn't continue to run after turning off the key.
>
Interesting, I've never seen one to keep the engine from running when the
key is turned off ... I've always been told it could be one of a couple of
things, if its electric then it is probably for the A/C so that when the
compressor is engauged the idle will bump up, sometimes these are installed
with electric winches to keep the idle up a touch and charge the battery a
little quicker.

The other possibility is that its an anti-kill pod, usually vaccuum
activated, tryin to remember what I saw one on, I think it was a manual
tranny 'stang or something, but the idea was that when you let off quickly
with the clutch disengaged, that it would pop out and keep the car from
dying by giving it a bump in idle ... hmmmm...how to explain this better
... when you just release the gas after a run, its possible for the motor
to die because the revs drop too quickly ... this is especially noticeable
when spinning, then cutting off the gas ... I did this with my truck the
other day in the snow, but that was an automatic so its not quite the same...


The final possibility is that the engine was replaced with one that
originally came with air (as was the case with my truck)


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:30:29 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - help

At 10:26 PM 1/27/99 , you wrote:
>will the oil dipstick from a 390 fit into a 302????

Are you referring to the dipstick itself? I'm sure it will fit, but how
accurate it will be, well that might be another story ... see if you can
find the part numbers and if they match then you should be okay ... Though
since the 302 is a rather small smallblock (physically speaking) and the
390 is kind of a big block, I would expect the 390 to have a longer
dipstick ... I can look next time I'm home, but that may not be for a while


If you mean actually the tube, well 302's had several different styles, as
did 390's ... so again ou're back to part numbers ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:43:54 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Solenoid on carb, 79 F150

>>It's so your engine doesn't continue to run after turning off the key.
>>
>Deacon is right but let me elaborate on that a little.
>
Please, I'm confused!

>During the late '70s and early 80s, the manufacturers had to lean out the
>carbs big-time to meet emission regulations. This made the engines idle
>poorly so the throttle had to be opened up more to compensate.

When you're running lean, won't opening the throttle a little just allow
more air and make things worse ?


Now, when
>you have an engine that runs-on after you turn off the key, you have to
>figure it is getting air from somewhere. No air, no fire.

I suppose, most of the time its been too much fuel on an older high
compression engine when I've seen it, but we'll go along with this
assumption ...

This can be a
>vacuum leak OR it can be that the throttle plates are not closed
>completely. Well, if your idle screw is adjusted to make the truck idle on
>one of these vehicles with such a lean setting, then the throttle plates
>are gonna stay open when you turn the key off which is just the same to the
>engine as a vacuum leak.
>
Okay, I'll buy that ...

>So, what they did was put a solenoid on there to open up the throttle and
>make the engine idle when the key is on, but when you turn off the key, the
>solenoid releases and closes the throttle plates, which keeps the engine
>from running-on.
>

If this is true and the above is true, then the solenoid isn't really doing
anything because the idle screw is gonna hold the plates open right ? I
mean isn't that how an idle screw works? Even the new FI cars have a
similar thing where you can twist the screw to open the butterfly a bit
more and help with idling ....unless the idle screw is mounted to a
moveable plate that the solenoid controls ?

Curious in IA
wish
:)

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 14:33:21 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - radiator

Dennis Pearson writes: >> Think I should find another radiator with the AT
inlets?

Yes, I do. I like to have both. I had a friend that ran an external (aux) only
cooler for a while on his '77 2X4 F150 with transplanted 351W and C6. I
convinced him to install a tranny temp sensor/gauge and he finally did. Shortly
after, he installed the correct radiator and rerouted his tranny coolant lines
through it 1st then the aux and he was amased at the difference in tranny temp.
Around 100 degrees lower.

Azie
Ardmore, Al./


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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 15:16:25 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Balance of 360 & 390

Forrest New writes: >>Question: Did the 390 and 360 share the same crankshaft
damper?
Converting a 360 to a 390 wouldn't you also need the flexplate/ flywheel
and harmonic balancer for the 390 crank since your changing the rotating
mass weight?

No!!! Same balance. Both are internally balanced, so the vibration damper and
flywheel(flexplate if you must) are both zero balanced. You can mix and match
as availability dictates.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 22:21:55 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Won't start easily, since weather warmed up

My 76 f100 with a 351W is having problems on start up now since the
weather has warmed up. It seems like its flooded but it can't be.
I give it a couple pumps then turn the key and it fires like it is going
to start then it just dies. After that it will not fire for a while or
fires once in a while until it finaally weakly starts. What could be
causing this???

- -It got new plugs this summer
could it be wires or coil???

Thanks
Kirk Baillie
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 10:29:51 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Won't start easily, since weather warmed up

>My 76 f100 with a 351W is having problems on start up now since the
>weather has warmed up. It seems like its flooded but it can't be.
>I give it a couple pumps then turn the key and it fires like it is going
>to start then it just dies. After that it will not fire for a while or
>fires once in a while until it finaally weakly starts. What could be
>causing this???
>

If you're running points, check these right away, along with the timing ...
also check the choke, if the choke is closed tightly it could be flooding
out ... you might also try starting without pumping the gas at all, if this
works, then it is definitely flooding. My truck did this to me recently
and it was a stuck float, there was some junk in the bowl and it kept the
fuel leaking in, the truck would only run over 2000 revs, anything less and
it was more gas than it could handle.

Also try keeping the gas floored if you think its flooded, this will allow
it to pull more air than it needs (also cause a rev when it does start, but
may get it started)

>-It got new plugs this summer
>could it be wires or coil???
>
Could be, but check the carb and ignition sources first...oh yeah what's
the humidity ? Sometimes an old duraspark box will let moisture in and
cause it to act funny ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:04:13 EST
From: Brazzadog aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stranded '66 Merc - kinda long

My neighbor has a '66 Mercury with a 400M out of an LTD and an Edelbrock carb.
The motor has only been in for about a year so it has fairly new accessories,
ignition, and fuel pump. It has always run strong, smooth, and easy. He says
he didn't change the timing chain when he put the motor in.

He went to pick it up at the car-pool lot last night and it wouldn't start.
It was about 30* when we went back to try again. After he wore the battery
down cranking it we jumped it with my truck and kept trying. It mostly wasn't
even firing. He thought he'd flooded it the first time, but I figured he was
out of gas since he's done it before and the gauge doesn't work. Pouring gas
down the carb didn't help. He tried it about 4 times and got 2 "flames out
the air filter" for his trouble. Still not firing very often. We checked
fuel lines and moved one clamp that may have been loose. The in-line fuel
filter never got more than half full, but I could see the gas in the filter
pulsing as he cranked it.

He swore up and down he wasn't out of gas but when I pressed him for details
it seemed like there was a good chance he was - even though we have no idea
what kind of mileage it gets. It was parked on a slope so what gas was in it
should have been all on the pickup tube side of the tank. We put 3 gallons in
the tank and after about another 20 min it started. While it was running the
in-line fuel filter was 3/4 full or better. We let it run for about 5 min
but only got a block away before it died and we gave up. He said it died when
he goosed the throttle.

We basically don't have a clue what the problem is and feel like we've checked
all the standard things. I think it's not getting enough fuel. I think he
wants to sell it in the next six months or so and is looking for a low budget
fix. Anybody interested in a lowered '66 Merc shortbox?

Ben Williams
'78 F-250 4wd
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 11:10:34 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stranded '66 Merc - kinda long

>ignition, and fuel pump. It has always run strong, smooth, and easy. He says
>he didn't change the timing chain when he put the motor in.
>
Hmmmm... this is very suspect unless it was known good when he put it in
... my truck did similar things when the timing chain was bad ... you might
try loosening the distributor and move it around a bit til the engine runs,
then take it home and put a timing light on it. Mine was idling with over
40deg of advance according to the light ... a good sign that something was
off ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 09:13:03 -0800
From: "sam weatherby"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stranded '66 Merc - kinda long

Where is it?

Could be a weak fule pump the inline filter should full I believe. The fuel
pump may not have enough suction so when there is more gas it is able to
keep up, but as th gas gets lower it cant pump enough.
-srw

Sam Weatherby http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://insert.com/sammy
SWeatherby UsWest.Net A-SamWe Microsoft.com
'70 Grabber Sportsroof Mustang
'93 F-150 XLT Lightning
'98 HD FXD Super Glide
'65 F100

- -----Original Message-----
From: Brazzadog aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 9:06 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stranded '66 Merc - kinda long


>My neighbor has a '66 Mercury with a 400M out of an LTD and an Edelbrock
carb.
>The motor has only been in for about a year so it has fairly new
accessories,
>ignition, and fuel pump. It has always run strong, smooth, and easy. He
says
>he didn't change the timing chain when he put the motor in.
>
>He went to pick it up at the car-pool lot last night and it wouldn't start.
>It was about 30* when we went back to try again. After he wore the battery
>down cranking it we jumped it with my truck and kept trying. It mostly
wasn't
>even firing. He thought he'd flooded it the first time, but I figured he
was
>out of gas since he's done it before and the gauge doesn't work. Pouring
gas
>down the carb didn't help. He tried it about 4 times and got 2 "flames out
>the air filter" for his trouble. Still not firing very often. We checked
>fuel lines and moved one clamp that may have been loose. The in-line fuel
>filter never got more than half full, but I could see the gas in the filter
>pulsing as he cranked it.
>
>He swore up and down he wasn't out of gas but when I pressed him for
details
>it seemed like there was a good chance he was - even though we have no idea
>what kind of mileage it gets. It was parked on a slope so what gas was in
it
>should have been all on the pickup tube side of the tank. We put 3 gallons
in
>the tank and after about another 20 min it started. While it was running
the
>in-line fuel filter was 3/4 full or better. We let it run for about 5 min
>but only got a block away before it died and we gave up. He said it died
when
>he goosed the throttle.
>
>We basically don't have a clue what the problem is and feel like we've
checked
>all the standard things. I think it's not getting enough fuel. I think he
>wants to sell it in the next six months or so and is looking for a low
budget
>fix. Anybody interested in a lowered '66 Merc shortbox?
>
>Ben Williams
>'78 F-250 4wd
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>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 11:26:54 -0600
From: Rick_Thompson dell.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '77 Ford F250 w/460 Distributor Specs

Any one have the vacuum and centrifugal advance distributor specs for the
above truck with distributor number D6TE-121127-HA?

Thanks,

Rick Thompson
'77 F250 Super Cab

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 11:32:11 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Biggest engine

Seems like someone asked what the largest available engine was for a
particular year, (76?) And it seems like I answered 390, but no one
corrected me. When I went home I grabbed my Ford Truck Red Book which
covers through 76 or so and it listed a 460 available in the 2wd. Not sure
how common or correct this is, but thought I would put it out there and see
if anyone knew of anything to contradict that ...


Thanks,
wish
73ish F-1?? 4x4 360-->390
96 Mustang GT

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 10:29:27 -0800
From: "Wiltzius, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:hard starting when hot

John Peck,

I think the concensus was a tired starter.
the heat from the headers causes some kind of problem
with the windings and hence no oomph when hot.

Tom
Reno,NV
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 14:18:54 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical

Clare,

Had the same problem on my 74 f350. Ford is really bad about grounding.

So I took a wire and put eye clips on each
end large enough for the bolt in the battery ground cable to go through and
the silinord (sp) mounting screw on the fire wall. No more problems.





At 07:47 PM 1/27/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Oh sh**!
>
>keep in mind that i'm completely electrically challenged-
>
>when i got off work i went to start my truck (71 f250 c6 360) and
>---nothing! maybe a
>click. i tightened all cables at the battery, alternator, starter, and
>starter relay. The lights would come on but then when i turned the
>ignition-
>they went out- so i tried to jump it. it wouldn't take a jump--when i
>hooked up the cables, there was only a tiny spark when i attached the
>positive-normally if the battery is dead you get a nice sized spark. i
>tried with 2 different donor cars-same thing. makes me think maybe the
>battery is ok. only other thing- i did see a spark at the starter relay
>once or twice when trying to jump it.
>
>
>any and all advice is welcome. i have a multimeter- but dont really know
>how to test electrical circuits. i'm really up the creek- i have the
>exhaust torn off my spouse's jeep, and my lincoln is torn up too. guess i
>cant go to work tomorrow....
>
>
>
>Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
>Department of Biology
>University of North Carolina
>Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280
>
>T: (919)-962-2354
>F: (919)-962-1625
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 13:58:09 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - AODE

>From: "Brandt, Chris"
>Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - AODE
>
>There seems to be a bit of discusion on
>putting an AODE behind a 400M.

>From: William S Hart
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AODE
>
>"The E4OD is the only automatic overdrive
>transmission that will mate with Ford big
>block (385-series) engines"

Yo Chris:

The 351M/400 M-block uses the same bell housing bolt pattern as the 429/460
big blocks. Therefore, the only automatic overdrive option would be the
E4OD transmission. Apparently, Baumann Engineering sells a stand-alone
electronic controller for the E4OD, which you would need since the M-block
was never equipped w/ an EEC computer.

I don't know of anyone who has done it yet.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 14:01:47 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - carb question

>From: "B.T.A.K"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - carb question
>
>What does the selinode on the front drivers
>side of the carb do? I was told it is for the air
>conditioning, but the truck (79 f150 400m) does
>not have A/C.

Yo BTAK:

If the solenoid is energized when the ignition is on, it probably prevents
run-on (dieseling) when the ignition is turned off by allowing the throttle
plates to close more than the idle position. Otherwise, it is probably for
AC. Even though your truck does not have AC now, it have have at one time,
or the carb w/ the solenoid may be from another vehicle that had AC.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 14:05:49 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum advance/retard

>From: Shawn Flaugher
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum advance/retard
>
>As far as I can tell, the stem pointing horizontal
>is the advance, and the stem pointing vert is
>the retard. (correct me if I'm wrong please

Yo Shawn:

You are correct.

>I've tried playing around with different settings with
>the timing, and no luck.
>Any help would be great!

I would ignore the retard system and connect only the advance. The vacuum
advance port should be connected to the spark port on the carb. On the
Autolite/Motorcraft 2150 carb, the spark port is on the passenger side
(right side) of the main throttle body. Try that.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 16:10:35 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - carb question

At 12:58 AM 1/28/99 -0500, you wrote:
>i'm sorry i have no idea

Then why did you answer?


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:30:41 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Biggest engine

Thanks for your message at 11:32 AM 1/28/99 -0600, William S Hart. Your
message was:
>Seems like someone asked what the largest available engine was for a
>particular year, (76?) And it seems like I answered 390, but no one
>corrected me. When I went home I grabbed my Ford Truck Red Book which
>covers through 76 or so and it listed a 460 available in the 2wd. Not sure
>how common or correct this is, but thought I would put it out there and see
>if anyone knew of anything to contradict that ...
>
My father bought a 2wd f250 with a 460 brand new in 1976. I don't think it
was available in the F150 (F100 in '76?), though.
Dennis L. Pearson

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson.index.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/dlp.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 15:43:48 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - carb question

>What does the selinode on the front drivers side of the carb do? I was told
>it is for the air conditioning, but the truck (79 f150 400m) does not have
A/C.

>It's so your engine doesn't continue to run after turning off the key.

It's called an anti-dieseling solenoid. When you turn off the ignition it
is supposed to turn off also and close your throttle butterflies all the
way shut. Well as shut as they will go as allowed by the idle screw anyway.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:58:33 -0500
From: Marc Stine
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Alternator dead?

Okay the poor truck might just be tired. I got back from work today and
went to go to the store and Patch just wouldn't start. I turned the key
she turned over a little and the Battery just ran out of juice, it was
working fine up til now, no dimming lights or hesitating starts. The
battery isn't too terribly old, and with the other alternator problems
I've had in the past I always noticed it before we actually had
problems. I'm probablly just gonna have to throw the parts truck
battery in and take it in to the shop for them to test it, oh well so
much for saving up to get the boat in the water.

Marc

79 F150 4X4 351m
79 F150 4X4 300 "Patch"
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:01:23 EST
From: Brazzadog aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re reman parts

Who is Mac's? I'm on my 4th steering gear in 3 years and am getting tired of
going through the process of returning and replacing. At this point I'm
willing to go out of pocket again if it will get me a good one.

Ben Williams
'78 F-250 4wd

You wrote:

>One of the guys I was talking to on the phone kept going on and on about
>how they care so much about quality. He kept giving me names of awards they
>had won, etc. Awards and their implied prestige obviously meant more to him
>than the reality of his brand new box shooting fluid all over my front end
>parts. Maybe he forgot that I had gotten two examples of their quality
>control, and was looking to avoid a third. I kind of figured that
>experiences like mine were not out of the ordinary.
>
>FWIW, after the fact, Mac's will build a box if you send it to them.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:24:31 -0500
From: j arnold
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '75 f-250 Super Cab for sale

hey guys and gals, just saw a 1975 F-250 Supercab with an 8' bed for sale
for $1745. My friend i was with said he checked it out and said he thought
it had an FE, but wasn't sure. Also didn't bother to check what kind of
tranny, said he was pretty sure automatic. This particular friend is a
che*y driver (i know, i know, friends don't let friends drive che*y's...i
have tried to show him the light, but he refuses to take off the bowtie
shades...) and wasn't paying too much attention to details. If anyone is
interested let me know and i can go take a closer look at it once i get
feeling well enough. Truck is located in Elizabethtown, Kentucky. The
body looks pretty straight, had some nice wheels, a decent paint job, and
was 2WD. All in all, a good looking truck, too bad my "finance director"
(SWMBO) says NO MORE FORD TRUCKS!!!! Oh well...

- -Bud
'79 F-250 429 Police Interceptor, T-18
'76 F-100 302, 3-speed (For Sale)

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:58:34 EST
From: IRLobuck aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Tom (from Reno), your bed

Tom,
I have a NICE 63 (same bed as yours) stepside bed that I can be talked out of.
LOBUCK
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 21:14:58 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - help

it'll fit, but it wont be right

At 11:33 PM 1/27/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>will the oil dipstick from a 390 fit into a 302????
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:46:12 -0800
From: Steve & Rockette Leitch
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Biggest engine

At 11:32 AM 1/28/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Seems like someone asked what the largest available engine was for a
>particular year, (76?) And it seems like I answered 390, but no one
>corrected me. When I went home I grabbed my Ford Truck Red Book which
>covers through 76 or so and it listed a 460 available in the 2wd. Not sure
>how common or correct this is, but thought I would put it out there and see
>if anyone knew of anything to contradict that ...

That would be a "Trailer Special" in the F150's, I've been lookin' for
one.....

Steve & the Rockette


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 22:33:16 -0500
From: "Leslie O Mehaffey"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - help

thanks but i finally found a dipstick at Auto Zone.... the man at Advance
Auto said i could probably find one at a junkyard cause all they carry is
mostly chevy parts and i went to AZ and found me a chrome one from Mr.
Gasket

Virginia Jeff

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 00:04:58 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 f250 4x4 for sale

i went to look at the 66 f250 4x4 swb today, the body is a little on the rough
side,
the cab is decent but the fenders, radiator front support is rusty and the bed
is rusty. from a distance it looks ok. it has an fe, 4 speed and divorced
transfer case,the transfer case cross member looks stock, but it looks like it
was cut and notched for some reason, the shift lever barely sticks through the
hump, but i'm not real sure if it has the factory tunnel in it, it looks like
it came out of a 70's model truck, but it fits. i thought the 65-66 had a
rounded trans tunnel instead of the square looking one.
i didn't get to drive it, he's going to replace the starter, after that he
said i can come and drive it, the engine looks clean. the guy said he'll take
2000.00 for it.
i would love to have the truck, but it needs to be restored and i just
don't need another project, a friend is offering 100.00 to tell him where its
at. i'm seriously considering taking it, and forgetting about it.
does anyone know what its worth approx. all of the 65-66 4x4's i've seen
for sale around here over the past few years are around 4000.00 in similar
condition and they have been f100's. i know one of them sold and the other was
traded.
i guess it all comes down to who wants it and how bad.

thanks for any input.
jeff grant
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 21:32:27 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Solenoid on carb, 79 F150

Bill wrote:

[somebody explains anti-diesel soleniod to list]

> Okay, I'll buy that ...
>
> >So, what they did was put a solenoid on there to open up the throttle and
> >make the engine idle when the key is on, but when you turn off the key, the
> >solenoid releases and closes the throttle plates, which keeps the engine
> >from running-on.
> >

That, and most people developed the habit of shutting down the engine
before
taking an auto out of gear, or easing out on the clutch with your foot
firmly on the brake as you shut the key off. Complicating matters was
the
high underhood temps of this vintage auto. I recall some people just
sitting in thier car after the key was shut off listening to the engine
pound itself to pieces!

> If this is true and the above is true, then the solenoid isn't really doing
> anything because the idle screw is gonna hold the plates open right ? I
> mean isn't that how an idle screw works?

The soleniod plunger was adjustable to set the idle speed - I remember
working
on a few of these. The old 'idle speed adjust' screw was adjusted so
that the
butterfly didn't shut too far, becoming stuck in the bore.

> Even the new FI cars have a
> similar thing where you can twist the screw to open the butterfly a bit
> more and help with idling

No! No! Don't adjust that screw on an FI engine to adjust the idle, it
is
a mechanical stop only! The computer adjusts the idle, if it's off,
there
is something broken!

> ....unless the idle screw is mounted to a
> moveable plate that the solenoid controls ?
>
Yep, see above.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 21:51:47 -0800
From: Art Verling
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!

Adam
I would first check to see if a dome light is staying on somehow. Check the
switches in the doors make sure they are still have spring to them. You can also
pull the fuse for the dome light and wait a day or two to see if the problem goes
away. You might invest in a electrical amp meter that can test up to 2 amps (radio
shack?) Turn off everything in the truck close the doors pull the bulb under the
hood if you have one. Pull the positive connection from your battery and put the
meter in line between the positive connection of the battery and the connection you
just pulled off. It needs to read "0" or no current. Next remove one lead from your
meter and go turn your key switch on and off two or three times then turn it to
off. close the door and re connect the amp meter and see if it still reads "0" if
it dose not the I would think the key switch is bad. I would check it more than
once or twice. Could your brake lights may be staying on?
i hope this helps. If you need some help with the meter the guys at Radio Shack can
show you how to set it up to read amps. Be sure not to overload the amp meter by
turning on your headlights or starting the truck.
Good Luck
Art Verling
AV ix.netcom.com
64 F100

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 22:16:10 -0800
From: Art Verling
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hot August Nights

Tom
I have a catalog from Sacramento Vintage Ford 1-888-FORD-100 and they have some of
those spiffy conversion kits to put a C*/vy motor in any Ford truck :-(
they also have tons ford parts (you could build any year truck out of this
catalog).
The catalog is $7.00 and worth every penny.
I borrowed a nipple extractor from a plumber friend and got it out. Thanks for the
info. I went to the dealer and got a new one $16.00 OUCH. My motor is just about
done why don't you come and help me put it in this weekend. Email me (or look in
the phone book) and I will give you my number. This is all depending on the weather
(snow)...

Art verling
AV ix.netcom.com
64 F100

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 01:08:22 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic Lube

As I said in my last posting, I put Mobil synthetic SAE50 in my trans
and transfer case yesterday. Today I drained both axles and put in
Mobil synthetic 75-90 wt which is also what we use in the over-the-road
trucks at work.

So far I can see a huge difference since it's in the 30's at night
here. Used to be, when you'd start it and let out the clutch in nuetral
it would nearly kill the engine in 30 degree weather, and it would kill
in 10-15 degree weather. So far it works like a 90 degree day. The....

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