61-79-list-digest Thursday, January 28 1999 Volume 03 : Number 029



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Hot August Nights
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hot August Nights
FTE 61-79 - kicking and screaming into the 90's
FTE 61-79 - Re: Varner Gets Into the 90's
Re: FTE 61-79 - kicking and screaming into the 90's
FTE 61-79 - 302 carb problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: FTE 61-79- Transmission Cooler
FTE 61-79 - brake drums
Re: FTE 61-79 - AODE
FTE 61-79 - Re: Calling all 1967 owners
FTE 61-79 - RE: reman parts
FTE 61-79 - Re: bolt in oil pan?
FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!
FTE 61-79 - boneyard run ...
FTE 61-79 - front brakes on a 75, F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - AODE
Re: FTE 61-79 - Realigning doors / new hinges.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!
Re: FTE 61-79 - AODE
RE: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!
FTE 61-79 - door hinges on 79
FTE 61-79 - locking hood cable
RE: FTE 61-79 - Lockers
RE: FTE 61-79 - AODE
Re: FTE 61-79 - Lockers
Re: FTE 61-79 - AODE
FTE 61-79 - RE: Hot August Nights
FTE 61-79 - RE: 61 f100 4x4
Re: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HE
Re: FTE 61-79 - AODE
FTE 61-79 - RE: dipstick tube on 390
Re: FTE 61-79 - door hinges on 79
Re: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HE
FTE 61-79 - Re: 240/300 l6
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dist calibration
FTE 61-79 - Work
FTE 61-79 - Vacuum advance/retard
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: 240/300 l6
RE: FTE 61-79 - Oil Smoil / 300 ignition hop-up
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: dipstick tube on 390
FTE 61-79 - help--electrical
FTE 61-79 - Miss hard starting when engine hot.
FTE 61-79 - '66 steering column and drive shaft ?s
Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical
Re: FTE 61-79 - '66 steering column and drive shaft ?s
FTE 61-79 - "Original "style upholstery
FTE 61-79 - help
FTE 61-79 - carb question

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 06:18:40 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hot August Nights

At 06:26 PM 1/26/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Thanks Ken, getting excited about the club idea...also waiting on my t-shirts
>and stickers..
>
>Mike in Seattle
>

I've presented the club charter twice so far to the core.
I should be receiving final remarks this week and presenting
a final draft to vote on by the end of the week. T-shirts
were packed on Friday and shipped on Saturday and Monday.
We ran out of some sizes (didn't order many shirts up front)
and placed an additional order on Monday. Anyone who has
to wait the additional 1-2 weeks for a back-ordered shirt
has been notified and as is our policy, will not be charged
until it ships. I'm hoping some of you receive your shirts
today.

Ken


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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 06:24:18 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hot August Nights

At 11:47 PM 1/26/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Ken
>Would you send me an email with any info that I may need to start the Reno
>Chapter of the FTE? It sounds fun and we seem to have some intrest in this
>event.
>Art Verling
>AV ix.netcom.com
>64 F100
>

We don't have anything finalyzed yet. This week (weekend?) we
should be at the point to have the steering committee elected
from the core list and then it can be presented to everyone.
Once it gets rolling, I back off (the club cannot have FTE
officers on its steering committee) - I felt this would be a
good way for it to maintain its independance).

In case anyone is wondering, the core is a group of volunteers,
some with us for a long time, some not so long. The initial
core was formed after last years Pigeon Forge show. It grew
again after a call for volunteers this fall.

Ken


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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 07:01:01 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - kicking and screaming into the 90's

CJ wrote:
>>I see where ol' Marino had to drag you kicking and screaming into 90's by
>>getting you set up with a PC at home!
Yeah that "KID" had to come help the computer illiterate, YOU should have
seen how he stole every spare truck part I had lying around.....rassen
frassen fritzin !!! Kids these days! That old asthmatic 300 inline 6
banger could barely leave my house! It was hillarious! Loaded down so
badly the springs were squatting clear to the ground.
Big smiles Tony!!!! Tony was even eyballing parts for Jim Elliott!! Get
him Jimbo! 8^)
>Jim Elliott wrote:
I know. Ken is probably lying awake at night sweating, thinking about what
>that means for list traffic now that Stu can post freely instead of sneaking
>around at work.
Oh yeah, right now I can't post from home with out Ken's machine bouncing a
nasty note,
I haven't had time to worry with it since I come in at 6:15 am each day to
take care of FTE business and other related skool stuff. :) You wait til
I *can* post freely from home, we'll have 5, maybe 8 digests a day!!! Long
live FTE! Nuke GM!

Ken"the big dog-woof" wrote:
>Not terribly worried.
Rats, I was hoping to instill a little fear in you Ken!
>Sooner or later, I'll
>have to put up another list split vote.

Shall I cast my vote NOW for the 61-79-list to remain as is!! It is the
heart and soul of FTE!!! Don't mess with a good thing! The shop companions
we have on 61-79 are unequalled and worth their weight in platinum as is!!
Please NO CHANGES to us!! You see and know the personality of the group Ken,
some of us have been together the whole 2 years now. I beg you, No changes
to us!!

>Besides.... I like reading his posts! (Call me selfish!)
Oh Geez Ken, You're gonna make me want to post something everyday!
That might be a challenge since I am an "Igor" of very few words!

Just to make this post *legal* - I don't want no spankins :)
I get to take my truck to the *new* body shop today for paint
and a facelift after many months of being "pulled" along by my other paint guy
I am quite pumped actually! I am not even going to ask when he will have it
done
since Insurance work usually always takes the front stage.

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 07:06:23 -0600
From: "James Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Varner Gets Into the 90's

>>Marino had to drag you kicking and screaming into 90's by
snip
>Ken is probably lying awake at night sweating
snip
Besides.... I like reading his posts! (Call me selfish!)
Ken

Okay, you're a shellfish.

JE



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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:40:02 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - kicking and screaming into the 90's

At 07:01 AM 1/27/99 -0600, you wrote:
>CJ wrote:
>>>I see where ol' Marino had to drag you kicking and screaming into 90's by
>>>getting you set up with a PC at home!

>Yeah that "KID" had to come help the computer illiterate, YOU should have
>seen how he stole every spare truck part I had lying around.....rassen
>frassen fritzin !!! Kids these days!

Hey, You know, I figured I deserved it considering it took you 2 and a half
hours to learn how to turn it on old man!! 8-)

>That old asthmatic 300 inline 6
>banger could barely leave my house! It was hillarious! Loaded down so
>badly the springs were squatting clear to the ground.

He he he- that may be so, but I sure brought home the bacon! You are
allowed to make fun of my '93, you're even allowed to make fun of how ugly
my '78 is, and you can even tell me my '70 isn't worth restoring, but the
fact of the matter is- I HAVE 3 TRUCKS I CAN DRIVE AND YOU DON'T!! Na-na-na
poo-poo!!!

>Big smiles Tony!!!! Tony was even eyballing parts for Jim Elliott!! Get
>him Jimbo! 8^)

Hmm.. I think I *should* get that slider rear for Jim calling you selfish!
Whattya' think Stu? ;-)

>Shall I cast my vote NOW for the 61-79-list to remain as is!! It is the
>heart and soul of FTE!!! Don't mess with a good thing!

Agreed 100%!

>>Besides.... I like reading his posts! (Call me selfish!)
>Oh Geez Ken, You're gonna make me want to post something everyday!
>That might be a challenge since I am an "Igor" of very few words!

Oh man- it's spreading! HAHAHAHAHA..

>Just to make this post *legal* - I don't want no spankins :)

Yeah, me to for that matter- Tim Bowman mentioned the Pentronix ignition
systems- do they have a home page or any place where I could order a catalog?

Thanks

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:20:46 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 302 carb problems

I am going to throw in my two cents on tuning a carb. I learned from my
uncle who was a professional mechanic for over 60 years.

1. Get the engine to idle as slow as you can without dying. This means that
the timing and points need to be close to right and no vacuum leaks.
Typically, this should be between 500 and 650 rpm. Set this speed with the
idle adjusting screw. Be sure the electric solenoid that sets the idle up
to compensate for the air conditioner is disconnected. The transmission
should be in Park or Nuetral, wheels blocked. Be sure the choke is wide
open and the engine is at normal operating temperature.

2. With the engine not running, examine your idle mix screws, both the
appearance and the location. Before you attempt to adjust them, find a
screwdriver/nut driver that will turn them easily without putting you near
the moving parts (re: FAN). If you have no idea where the mix screws should
be, screw them in until they bottom, then back out three full turns. The
engine should now run and you should be able to finish step 1.

3. Slowly turn one of the idle mix screws in until the engine just begins
to start missing, then back out about about one and a half turns. Do the
same to the other side. If in doubt, go back to the other side. If you turn
the screw all of the way in and the engine never begins to miss, then
something is not right.

4. Now go back and recheck timing, dwell, etc.

5. If desired, reset idle mix

6. Reconnect everything and set your idle speed to factory specs or
whatever trips your trigger. I personally prefer the lowest idle speed that
keeps everything running and allows the least . The lower the engine speed
when you put an auto in Drive, the less wear and tear.

BTW, a tach is not necessary, but nice.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:33:01 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: FTE 61-79- Transmission Cooler

>Bill,
>
>A transmission cooler functions best if the transmission line runs
>through the cooler in the radiator first and then to the aux.
>transmission
>cooler and then back to the transmission. Bypassing the radiator
>trans. cooler will almost certainly affect the cooling ability of the
>aux.
>cooler. The purpose of an aux. cooler is to help cool the trans fluid
>in addition to what the stock radiator cooler does. Bypassing the
>stock radiator cooler is defeating the purpose.
>
This is all great information, did the person who originally posted about
this get it ? Seems like everyone's aiming back at my comments and mine
wasn't havin the problem (I don't even have an aux cooler on my truck)


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:38:29 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - brake drums

I missed a couple of digests, but Colorado Jeff helped me catch up, for
which I am very thankful. There was a discussion about finding brake drums
and someone said fins don't matter. Wrong answer. They do matter when you
try to bolt your wheels up annd they don't fit over the fins. Been there,
done that. The right answer: The fins might not matter in and of themselves
and are not a reason to avoid the potential drum, just be sure your wheels
will fit around them.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:39:49 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AODE

At 10:43 PM 1/26/99 , you wrote:
>Bill,
>Thanks for the link!
No problem.
>
>What's the going rate for a junkyard E4OD?
>
Hmmmm....seems like its probably 5-800 dollars ? don't really remember now
that I think of it ... one shop was going to swap my sister's tranny and
xfer case for 2500 I think it was, and that was putting used tranny and
xfer case in...

Good luck! Kinda wish I could swap in an OD, but the FE kinda prohibits
that ... and I just had the C6 fixed, guess I'll just have to use the OD on
the 'stang when I feel like idling at highway speeds :)


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 06:45:21 PST
From: "MARTY COLMAN"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Calling all 1967 owners

Add yet another to your growing list. My younger brother has a
"Holley Green" 67 SWB stepside. He just bought it a few months ago.
Has been repainted, but still the original minty green color. It's a
Custom Cab with 352 with dual exhaust and three on the tree. A very
sharp looking truck and the "Holley Green" is a nice looking color when
he gets it shined up! -Marty

Troy Colman
1967 2wd 352 3spd "Holley Green"

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 06:54:15 -0700
From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: reman parts

On Tue, 26 Jan 1999 09:08:42 -0500 TracyJones cinergy.com wrote:

>BTW, I actually sent Cardone my original steering box (twice) for
rebuilding
>and all I got in return was a $300 paint job.
lol. You got the $300 paint job? Man, my paint was peeling off straight out
of the box. They shanked me on paint!!

> #%*! B_stards!

I agree.

One of the guys I was talking to on the phone kept going on and on about
how they care so much about quality. He kept giving me names of awards they
had won, etc. Awards and their implied prestige obviously meant more to him
than the reality of his brand new box shooting fluid all over my front end
parts. Maybe he forgot that I had gotten two examples of their quality
control, and was looking to avoid a third. I kind of figured that
experiences like mine were not out of the ordinary.

FWIW, after the fact, Mac's will build a box if you send it to them.

Thanks for the info.

Drew Beatty
dcbeatty rmi.net
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 07:01:19 -0700
From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: bolt in oil pan?

Been there. I was assembling a 302 one time and I put the oil pump drive
shaft in the distributor and went to stab it. One problem: the machine shop
had already put the driveshaft in there. The one I was trying to put in,
luckily, hit the pan, and I figured the oil would hold it down. I
eventually sold the motor.

This was nature's way of telling me to slow down.

Drew Beatty
dcbeatty rmi.net


>Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 06:55:09 -0800 (PST)
>From: draco pacifier.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: bolt in oil pan?

>The first time I fired up my 390 I had the distrubutor out to prime

>distrubutor hold down clamp down the hole. I looked around in there
>with a flashlight and couldn't see it so I assumed it was sitting in
>the oil pan. I wasn't going to pull the pan so I just left it there.

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:05:54 -0500
From: adam.hicks ppctx.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!


First off... I know it's not the alternator...

I had a battery in my 460 F150 and it went dead. It was only a few
months old, but was a pretty weak battery (that's what the guy
recommended!) Anyways, I go and buy a mondo Duralast 900 cranking
amp battery the size of a dog house and the thing fires right up.
I started the truck two days ago without any problems. Today the
battery is dead as a doornail. No clicks, not even trying. The
only thing I've done lately to the truck is install a Mallory High
perf. coil and it went in without any problems with the factory
wiring (except for the wire to my tach)

Anybody know of anything that might be causing my battery to either
short out or drain completely? I'm going to try and give it a jump
later, but last time a jump wouldn't do it. Had to replace the
battery.

$75.00 every few weeks can get expensive for a truck I drive once a
month!!!


Thanks in advance!!!
Adam
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:12:53 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: FTE 61-79 - boneyard run ...

>Just to make this post *legal* - I don't want no spankins :)
>I get to take my truck to the *new* body shop today for paint
>and a facelift after many months of being "pulled" along by my other paint guy
>I am quite pumped actually! I am not even going to ask when he will have it
>done
>since Insurance work usually always takes the front stage.

Hey glad you finally got it in. I made a run to the junk yard (whatever
you call it in your part of the country) and was lookin for Duraspark stuff
for my truck, all I found was a 6cyl, the vehicles that still had their
motors (maybe 4 of 25?) all had their ignition ripped out, or were points.
I did see a truck that looked like yours Stu ... kinda sad.

Anyway for those who may or may not be interested in some odd parts there
were lots of old fords there, most have been stripped, but there's
something left on about all of them. Even 1 74 4x4! I couldn't believe
it. Still has the FE, AT and xfer case in place. One of the 73-79's had
dual tanks with the heater control switch on it ... seems like it was a 79
SC ...

Anyway here's what's around
2
too I think ... rusty, but mostly complete I think.

a couple 67-72's, not too many though, don't remember a lot being missing
on the one that I looked at ... Dashes seem to disappear out of all these
trucks (gauges, but speedos are usually around??)

probably 10-15 73-79. Probably make 2 or 3 complete trucks, but most are
missing motors ... a couple of Fe's still around, one 351/400 and a
straight 6 (for fun I guess :)

Anyway if anyone needs/wants me to look for anything in particular I can
run out there any time (its here in town). Not much in the way of body
parts around here, the salt eats them pretty quick.


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:22:55 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - front brakes on a 75, F100

Hi Mike,

Yes, this is no problem, except for a few things:

1) You'll also need to grab the steering knuckles from the donor truck as the
spindle mounting bolts are different between the disc and drum brake setups.

2) You'll need to get a new tie rod, as the tapers in the new knuckles are
bigger than the drum ones. I'm pretty sure that you can still use the same
drag link.....pretty sure...

3) You'll need a new brake proportioning valve and make some new brake lines.
Do you have a power brake setup already?

You can use the F-150 4x4's from 76-79, and 78-79 Broncos for your parts...but
as far as tie rods, be sure to go with 78-78 stuff only, skip the 76-77 setup
as it is TERRIBLE.

Let us know if you decide to go ahead and we should be able to give you a few
more details....I ended up just replacing the entire front axle....if you have
the opportunity....this might just about as easy!

CJ Colorado Jeff



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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:45:50 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AODE

Good luck! Kinda wish I could swap in an OD, but the FE kinda prohibits
that ... and I just had the C6 fixed, guess I'll just have to use the OD
on the 'stang when I feel like idling at highway speeds :)


Why do you say the FE prohibits having an E4OD?
Chris
94 Lightning #381
NLOC #238
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:49:30 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Realigning doors / new hinges.

>I have a '79 F150 that has sagging doors. From looking
>at the hinge bolt locations, it looks impossible to get
>at the hinges without taking off the front fenders. And
>it looks like I'd have to remove the grill (around the
>head lights) and a few other pieces to get the fenders
>off.

My ex-roommate did this on his Mustang, I about fell over I was laughing so
hard ... he swore he had to do it that way ... he was a little embarassed
when I told him Dad and I had done the ones on my old stang and never had
to touch the fender ...

>
>I really don't want to dissassemble my entire truck just
>to put some new hinges on the doors. Has anyone done this
>an easier way?
>
Not on the trucks, but on cars, so you'll have to bear with me ... what we
did (on a 69 Cougar, an 82 Mustang and an 80 Eagle wagon) was to open the
door, slide a punch or chisel or something long and slender on top of the
hinge pin and drive it out ... most likely as someone else mentioned, your
problem is the bushings around the pin itself. A real quick check of this
is to lift up on the back of the door and watch the hinges, if the ones on
the body aren't moving and the ones on the door are, then the problem is
the pins and or bushings are worn. I've seen these at hardware stores now,
so they are readily available. Seems like the bushings were brass, we put
a nice coating of white lithium grease on them, and pounded them back in.
Kind of a 2 person job, but maybe if you blocked the back of the door up
and did one pin at a time you could do it yourself.


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:51:37 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!

At 08:05 AM 1/27/99 , you wrote:
>
> First off... I know it's not the alternator...
>
Okay, I'll take your word, but how do you know this ? Just replaced it ?

> Anybody know of anything that might be causing my battery to either
> short out or drain completely? I'm going to try and give it a jump
> later, but last time a jump wouldn't do it. Had to replace the
> battery.
>

Sounds like it might be your voltage regulator isn't allowing the
alternator to charge the battery, so you start it with the battery and run
off the alternator ... also check that nothing is draining the battery
while its sitting there, no extra radio power or lights (dome) left on...


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Trucks/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:55:27 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AODE

At 09:45 AM 1/27/99 , you wrote:
>Good luck! Kinda wish I could swap in an OD, but the FE kinda prohibits
>that ... and I just had the C6 fixed, guess I'll just have to use the OD
>on the 'stang when I feel like idling at highway speeds :)
>
>
>Why do you say the FE prohibits having an E4OD?

I don't mean the Fire Extinguisher as several posts have meant, I mean the
big block ... from everything I've read the FE was never offered with an
over drive, and the bell housing is different from any of the motors that
did come with one. Say does anyone know the bolt pattern for the 4.6's ?
does that match up ? :) j/k.



Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Trucks/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 11:06:31 -0500
From: TracyJones cinergy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!

> ----------
> From: adam.hicks ppctx.com[SMTP:adam.hicks ppctx.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 9:05 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!
>
>
> First off... I know it's not the alternator...
SNIP
>
> Anybody know of anything that might be causing my battery to either
> short out or drain completely
>
>
> Thanks in advance!!!
> Adam
>
You might try isolating the batt drain by pulling out one fuse at a time.

BTW how do you know it's not the alt. ?

Tracy


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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 22:25:27 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!

TracyJones cinergy.com wrote:
>
> > ----------
> > From: adam.hicks ppctx.com[SMTP:adam.hicks ppctx.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 9:05 AM
> > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HELP!
> >
> >
> > First off... I know it's not the alternator...
> SNIP
> >
> > Anybody know of anything that might be causing my battery to either
> > short out or drain completely
> >
Here are some things you should do.
-first pull of the negative cable and run a test light between the
cable and the negative bat. post. if there is a drain the light will
come on. (make sure doors are closed)
-if the light comes on pull the wires off the back of the alt. if
thelight goes out now the alt is bad. if the light stays on start
pulling fuses to find out the short.


also check that your bat. isolator is not shot, it you have one that
is. you alt. could be sending power to the isolator, but the iso. may
be not sending it to your bat.

also check your bat. voltage regulator.

hope this helps....
Kirk Baillie
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:23:27 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - door hinges on 79

Jeff and Cannandale,

Unless your 79 is different from mine, the doors will come off with out
taking the front fenders off. My truck was smashed this summer and I just
replaced the left door and fender. You will need a good ratchet and socket
set, 3/8 drive. I don't think minimal tools like pliers and open end
wrenches will do it. A universal joint is extremely helpful, but I think
you can get by without it.

Unbolt the door from the hinges or the hinges from the body, whichever is
easier to get to. I put a floor jack with a 2x4 on the saddle under the
door to support the weight and maintain the right orientation when the
bolts are all removed. I am pretty sure that I took the hinges off the body
first. Plan on replacing all of the bolts. Mine were not threaded all of
the way to the tip. They are made not to fall out if they come loose. You
very likely will not be removing them with your fingers. I chased the
threads with a tap and installed new bolts with good lock washers.

The fenders have nine million bolts holding them on. If you want one off,
first remove the plastic inner fender liner. There are a bunch of bolts
that run up the front of the fender at the end of the grille. Some of them
may be easier to get to if you remove the marker light. I think there are
some more in this same general area that are sort of scattered out. At the
top front corner there is at least one bolt that goes through the fender,
the grille shell, and the radiator cross support. Pay attention to the
order so you can put it back. There are two or three more body bolts in
that area that need to be loosened, but not removed. Next there is a row
from front to rear in the hood opening. There is one bolt between the door
hinges that probbaly has spacers under it. Pay attention so you can put
them back where they were. There is one larger bolt under the front of the
door. I think that is pretty much it. Be prepared for rusted fasteners,
skinned knuckles, and scratched paint.

There is bound to be a way to get to the metal plate in the fender, but
mine were OK so I can't help you there. I did have trouble with one in my
door. I broke an eze-out and several drill bits. Luckily I had the good
door and the wrecked door, so I just replaced the plate. Replacing the
plate is probably your best bet at a cure. Are all three bolts broken? How
does your door stay on? If one bolt is still good, take the door off, then
tighten the good bolt down to hold the plate still so you can drill out the
others. Those bolts are very hard. I would keep going bigger and bigger
until it was all drilled out to the threads, even if it meant retapping and
going to a slightly larger bolt.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:06:45 -0600
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - locking hood cable

My 79 came with it originally. I know of several mid 70s trucks that also
came with them new. I don't know whether it was an option or standard
equipment, I just assumed they were all like that.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:26:10 -0800
From: "Brandt, Chris"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Lockers

You can't get a trutrac for the 60....the new gearless looks interesting
though.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Brett Yerks [SMTP:yerk0002 tc.umn.edu]
> Sent:Tuesday, January 26, 1999 3:40 PM
> To:61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:Re: FTE 61-79 - Lockers
>
> >Now for the dumb
> >question...are you sure you have a 60 front end. Or is it a 44 with the
> big
> >ends ? The 60's are ultra scarce in that year and I have heard of more
> than
> >one guy getting them mixed up. If it is a 44 go with the trutrac.
> >
> >Chris
>
> Yeah, it's for sure a Dana 60, it's been swapped in. ;)
> Is the trutrac recommended for the 60 also? Is it available for a 60?
>
> Brett
>
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:24:53 -0800
From: "Brandt, Chris"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - AODE

There seems to be a bit of discusion on putting an AODE behind a
400M. I am new to the list as of yesterday so it has been tough to follow up
on. This is a conversion that I would love to do. Who has done it (4x4
chasis), whats it cost, whats involved.....was it worth it ?


For the newbies here. It will be much easier to follow this stuff if
a bit of the original message is attached.....

Chris
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 12:25:40 EST
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Lockers

In a message dated 1/27/99 8:40:19 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Chris.Brandt nike.com writes:


though. >>
I say this in Petersons 4 wheel. I thought it said it was only for the light
duty axles, Like under Jeeps. I dont think it'll even fit a dana 44, but I'm
not sure. All this locker talk has got me wanting to get my 3.73 LS back
under my truck. Is this a rare item bein a Dana 70? Goin through all the
mags I NEVER see anything perf wise for it. Only exception was an aluminum
cover, with a dipstick and drain plug. But thats just cuz the 60 and 70 have
the same cover.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 13:20:01 -0500
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AODE

William S Hart wrote:
>
> At 09:45 AM 1/27/99 , you wrote:
> >Good luck! Kinda wish I could swap in an OD, but the FE kinda prohibits
> >that ... and I just had the C6 fixed, guess I'll just have to use the OD
> >on the 'stang when I feel like idling at highway speeds :)
> >
> >
> >Why do you say the FE prohibits having an E4OD?
>
> I don't mean the Fire Extinguisher as several posts have meant, I mean the
> big block ... from everything I've read the FE was never offered with an
> over drive, and the bell housing is different from any of the motors that
> did come with one. Say does anyone know the bolt pattern for the 4.6's ?
> does that match up ? :) j/k.
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> Bill
>
> Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html
> '73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Trucks/truck.html
> '96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Cars/mustang.html
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

If I remember correctly baumans site even says that the E4OD works w/
the FE and its the only OD tranny that does. It was avaiable behind the
460 also!
Chris
94 lightning #381
NLOC #238
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:26:41 -0800
From: "Wiltzius, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Hot August Nights

Darrell said:

happen. I'd also like to see some events head my way, although I
think Hot
August nights is the closest I ever get. These folks just have no
taste here.
If it isnt lowered, covered in metallic paint, sporting wire wheels
and
hydraulics
Are you in the Reno area? If so drop me a line.

Tom
Reno,NV

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:43:49 -0800
From: "Wiltzius, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 61 f100 4x4

Birken,

You mentioned that you have a 61 F100 4x4.
What bed does it have. and is it the original bed?
Looking to get a short bed for my 62 but don't know what it was

Tom
Reno,NV
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 14:26:36 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HE

get a 12vt light, and pull the ground or positive, dosent matter, and run
the light in series with the battery and the cables (get a small light,
something that pulls very little current), and see if the light comes on,
if so then something is draning. To check and see whats draing, leave the
light on it, and start pulling fuses, and see if the light goes out, if
not, then its something under your hood (probally)

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460


At 10:22 AM 1/27/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
> First off... I know it's not the alternator...
>
> I had a battery in my 460 F150 and it went dead. It was only a few
> months old, but was a pretty weak battery (that's what the guy
> recommended!) Anyways, I go and buy a mondo Duralast 900 cranking
> amp battery the size of a dog house and the thing fires right up.
> I started the truck two days ago without any problems. Today the
> battery is dead as a doornail. No clicks, not even trying. The
> only thing I've done lately to the truck is install a Mallory High
> perf. coil and it went in without any problems with the factory
> wiring (except for the wire to my tach)
>
> Anybody know of anything that might be causing my battery to either
> short out or drain completely? I'm going to try and give it a jump
> later, but last time a jump wouldn't do it. Had to replace the
> battery.
>
> $75.00 every few weeks can get expensive for a truck I drive once a
> month!!!
>
>
> Thanks in advance!!!
> Adam
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>


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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 13:27:14 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AODE

>If I remember correctly baumans site even says that the E4OD works w/
>the FE and its the only OD tranny that does. It was avaiable behind the
>460 also!

"The E4OD is the only automatic overdrive transmission that will mate with
Ford big block (385-series) engines"

Is probably the line you are referring to. The problem is that the FE and
385 series big blocks are not the same, nor do they use the same
bellhousing, hence the problem. It was a good try though :)



Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Trucks/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 11:26:48 -0800
From: "Wiltzius, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: dipstick tube on 390

Art,
Mine was broken off like that when I got the engine.
I grabbed it with vice grips and yanked hard. out it came.
new tube was salvaged at junk yard and tapped in with a rubber mallet.

Yes we go to Hot Aug Nights every year. Don't see many 60's Ford trucks
though.
Even worse is to see areal nice Ford truck with a ch**y 350 in it !!!!
I just walk away shaking my head. :(

Tom
Reno,NV
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 14:32:13 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - door hinges on 79

All three blts are broken on the bottom plate, the doors just holding on by
the top 3 bolts. I know it screwed up my door, probally bent some, because
I lifted it up, and it wont sit right in the frame. Anyways, I tried using
a cutting torch to knock something out to get a drill started, but I
screwed up, I just need a new plate, or make the hold big and weld a nut
inside of them. But that sounds like a pain...

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460 (with screwed up doors) ha!

At 11:34 AM 1/27/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Jeff and Cannandale,
>
>Unless your 79 is different from mine, the doors will come off with out
>taking the front fenders off. My truck was smashed this summer and I just
>replaced the left door and fender. You will need a good ratchet and socket
>set, 3/8 drive. I don't think minimal tools like pliers and open end
>wrenches will do it. A universal joint is extremely helpful, but I think
>you can get by without it.
>
>Unbolt the door from the hinges or the hinges from the body, whichever is
>easier to get to. I put a floor jack with a 2x4 on the saddle under the
>door to support the weight and maintain the right orientation when the
>bolts are all removed. I am pretty sure that I took the hinges off the body
>first. Plan on replacing all of the bolts. Mine were not threaded all of
>the way to the tip. They are made not to fall out if they come loose. You
>very likely will not be removing them with your fingers. I chased the
>threads with a tap and installed new bolts with good lock washers.
>
>The fenders have nine million bolts holding them on. If you want one off,
>first remove the plastic inner fender liner. There are a bunch of bolts
>that run up the front of the fender at the end of the grille. Some of them
>may be easier to get to if you remove the marker light. I think there are
>some more in this same general area that are sort of scattered out. At the
>top front corner there is at least one bolt that goes through the fender,
>the grille shell, and the radiator cross support. Pay attention to the
>order so you can put it back. There are two or three more body bolts in
>that area that need to be loosened, but not removed. Next there is a row
>from front to rear in the hood opening. There is one bolt between the door
>hinges that probbaly has spacers under it. Pay attention so you can put
>them back where they were. There is one larger bolt under the front of the
>door. I think that is pretty much it. Be prepared for rusted fasteners,
>skinned knuckles, and scratched paint.
>
>There is bound to be a way to get to the metal plate in the fender, but
>mine were OK so I can't help you there. I did have trouble with one in my
>door. I broke an eze-out and several drill bits. Luckily I had the good
>door and the wrecked door, so I just replaced the plate. Replacing the
>plate is probably your best bet at a cure. Are all three bolts broken? How
>does your door stay on? If one bolt is still good, take the door off, then
>tighten the good bolt down to hold the plate still so you can drill out the
>others. Those bolts are very hard. I would keep going bigger and bigger
>until it was all drilled out to the threads, even if it meant retapping and
>going to a slightly larger bolt.
>
>
>-John
>
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com
>1979 F150 Custom 351M C6 (Henry)
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!
>
>
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>


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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 13:36:33 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Why do my battery's keep dying?!?! HE

To check and see whats draing, leave the
>light on it, and start pulling fuses, and see if the light goes out, if
>not, then its something under your hood (probally)
>
Don't forget to close the door as you pull the fuses or it won't go out til
you pull the one for the dome light ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Trucks/truck.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 12:48:05 -0700
From: "Richard Currit"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 240/300 l6

Hey all, I asked about this a while back and was given some places to =
search. Unfortunately, I still have not been able to find info on torque =
and horsepower ratings for the 240 and 300 inline six's. The door tag on =
my truck (w/240) says 103hp. Does anybody have hp and torque ratings for =
these two engines and at what rpm??????=20
High Plains Richard
'72 F-100

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 14:00:22 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dist calibration

>From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dist calibration
>
Yo Azie:

I have also seen the same part number in catalogs for rebuilt distributors
for 351Cs through 460s. I agree w/ you, though, that the proper advance
curves for the various engines should be different.

I was looking at a couple of M-block distributors last week over at Colo
Jeff's place and I noticed the cast part number on the base was
C8VE-something, which indicates that those distributors were originally
designed as parts for the 1968 Lincoln 460.

>I've never seen a STOCK 351M/400 that developed
>very much torque/hp. All seem to be very weak

Good thing you said STOCK!

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 14:04:00 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Work

Jim Elliott writes: >>Ken is probably lying awake at night sweating, thinking
about what
that means for list traffic now that Stu can post freely instead of sneaking
around at work.


Stu Work?????????Surely you jest.........

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 18:09:55 -0500
From: Shawn Flaugher
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum advance/retard

Hey guys, here's a little problem I've been having:

I've got my '71 f100, 302 - now I replaced the distributor, and got the
one
with the same vacuum advance/retard valve as the old one.

As far as I can tell, the stem pointing horizontal is the advance,
and the stem pointing vert is the retard. (correct me if I'm wrong
please
I can be a dumbass sometimes).
The horizontal stem is connected to a valve mounted on the firewall,
behind
the carb, and the vert stem is connected to the spacer between the carb
and
the intake manifold.

Now- with the two hoses attached, I stumble when I give it gass, (and
backfire) with the
horizontal hose disconnected, and plugged, the old girl runs fine!

I've tried playing around with different settings with the timing, and
no luck.
Any help would be great!

thanks , Shawn



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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 15:46:56 -0800
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: 240/300 l6

Yo Richard, This is a subject that was discussed on the 80-96 list, I
didn't save the e-mail but I,m sure that someone on that list has the
info you are looking for.

Eric

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Richard Currit [SMTP:RCURRI missc.state.wy.us]
> Sent:Wednesday, January 27, 1999 11:48 AM
> To:61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 61-79 - Re: 240/300 l6
>
> Hey all, I asked about this a while back and was given some places to
> search. Unfortunately, I still have not been able to find info on
> torque and horsepower ratings for the 240 and 300 inline six's. The
> door tag on my truck (w/240) says 103hp. Does anybody have hp and
> torque ratings for these two engines and at what rpm??????
> High Plains Richard
> '72 F-100
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 15:51:43 -0800
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Oil Smoil / 300 ignition hop-up

Tony, Check out Clifford Performance, they specialize in 4&6 cylinder
engines including the 300 l6.

Eric

www.cliffordperformance.com



> -----Original Message-----
> From:Tony Marino [SMTP:tony pscico.com]
> Sent:Tuesday, January 26, 1999 10:13 PM
> To:61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject:FTE 61-79 - Oil Smoil / 300 ignition hop-up
>
> At 07:52 PM 1/26/99 EST, you wrote:
> >OK, I replaced the 90wt gear lube in my NP 435 with Pennzoil 50wt
> engine oil
> >today and took it for a drive....it really made a big difference!
> >
> >The "rock crusher" is quieter and shifts both up and down much
> smoother. In
> >fact, at 65mph, I can slip it into reverse with no effort at
> all....well, not
> >quite.....
>
> Man! You're insane to try to put that tranny in reverse at that kind
> of
> speed!!! 8-)
>
> >Anyway, Marino had the right idea here....again...is this guy ever
> wrong?
>
> Oh yeah! Quite a bit as a matter of fact!! My diploma says I
> graduated 543
> out of 560!! He he he- that give you a clue?!
>
> >It made such a big difference for me, that now I can hardly wait to
> try it on
> >my cereal tomorrow morning!
>
> Oily-O's? Wonder if they would still float... hmmm.. Maybe we should
> argue
> over the viscosity of the different percentages of milk. Oh well!
>
> I do have a legitimate question in this message though- Does anybody
> know
> of any "high perf" manufacturer that makes distributors/coils/plugs
> for a
> 300-6? I need a hotter spark on idle with my '78. Mallory, MSD, and
> Accel
> don't have anything listed that I could find to put together a good
> ignition system. Would *just* a high perf coil help? I noticed a
> considerable improvement when I put platnum plugs in, but it still
> loads
> up. Suggestions? (gap of plugs, timing, and tuning of carb have all
> been
> taken into consideration)
>
> Tony
> tony pscico.com
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www/pscico.com/~tony
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 16:12:34 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: dipstick tube on 390

Thanks for your message at 11:26 AM 1/27/99 -0800, Wiltzius, Tom. Your
message was:
>Yes we go to Hot Aug Nights every year. Don't see many 60's Ford trucks
>though.
>Even worse is to see areal nice Ford truck with a ch**y 350 in it !!!!
>I just walk away shaking my head. :(
>
Doesn't that irritate a Ford Lover? I HAD a friend who took a beautiful
Unibody and subframed it Camaro! What a waste!
Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:47:44 -0500 (EST)
From: CLARE WATERMAN
Subject: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical

Oh sh**!

keep in mind that i'm completely electrically challenged-

when i got off work i went to start my truck (71 f250 c6 360) and
- ---nothing! maybe a
click. i tightened all cables at the battery, alternator, starter, and
starter relay. The lights would come on but then when i turned the
ignition-
they went out- so i tried to jump it. it wouldn't take a jump--when i
hooked up the cables, there was only a tiny spark when i attached the
positive-normally if the battery is dead you get a nice sized spark. i
tried with 2 different donor cars-same thing. makes me think maybe the
battery is ok. only other thing- i did see a spark at the starter relay
once or twice when trying to jump it.


any and all advice is welcome. i have a multimeter- but dont really know
how to test electrical circuits. i'm really up the creek- i have the
exhaust torn off my spouse's jeep, and my lincoln is torn up too. guess i
cant go to work tomorrow....



Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of North Carolina
Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280

T: (919)-962-2354
F: (919)-962-1625


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 22:20:44 -0500
From: "John Peck"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Miss hard starting when engine hot.

I did not receive v12. My 69 360 has problems starting when ran for awhile.
If anybody can send me v12 or just a run down of the problems fix. I would
appreciate it.



John Peck
johnpeck visuallink.com

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 20:29:31 -0700 (MST)
From: dsy_cby webtv.net (Tarry Harper)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '66 steering column and drive shaft ?s

To the people looking for info on the conversion to power steering, I
took tke advice of a fellow FTE and put the steering gear from a '74 and
installed it on my '66. All you have to do is shoren your steering
column shaft. I bought a rebuilt pump.
My question is if anyone can tell me, if any and which ones, 4x2
trucks with a long bed came with a one peice drive shaft. I had a good
feind tell me I could gain 20 to 30 more horses by replacing my two
peice with a one peice. Is this true?

'66 F-100 429/C-6

Tarry

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:34:03 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - help--electrical

Clare cried out:
> when i got off work i went to start my truck (71 f250 c6 360) and
> ---nothing! maybe a
> click. i tightened all cables at the battery, alternator, starter, and
> starter relay. The lights would come on but then when i turned the
> ignition-
> they went out-so i tried to jump it.

Take your battery cables off and CLEAN them really good - Do you
have a battery post cleaner? If not, use some sandpaper or something
so that you see nice shiny metal on both the battery and the clamp
before assembling them.

What it sounds like you have is too high a resistance in your
connections, everything looks alright with a small load (headlights
on). Add a big load (starter), all the voltage is dropped across
this extra resistance (lights go off).

Another possibility is a jammed starter. If cleaning the cables
doesn't work, try rocking or turning over the engine with a socket
on the front crank pulley bolt. If you can turn it, and the starter
still won't turn over, then the starter isn't jammed. A jammed
starter will usually cause the lights to go very dim, but not out.

Next could be a dead starter solinoid, but this wouldn't affect
the lights . . .

Last possibility, a shorted out starter motor. Again, lights would
go very dim, but probably not out. Try sticking your voltmeter
leads right onto the battery posts, important, notice battery POSTS,
not cables or clamps. Should read about 12-13 volts. Now while holding
the leads there, have someone turn on the lights, the voltage should
remain about the same. Now have them turn the engine. If the voltage
drops a bunch (below 9-10 volts), then your battery is may be shot
or dead. If the voltage remains above 10-12 volts, then your starter
is shot.

[snip]

> i'm really up the creek- i have the
> exhaust torn off my spouse's jeep, and my lincoln is torn up too.
> guess i
> cant go to work tomorrow....

Now, Now, we all have to go to work tomorrow. Don't we??? You mean
I can stay home to work on my trucks?
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

....


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