61-79-list-digest Thursday, January 21 1999 Volume 03 : Number 020



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oils/ was need advice
FTE 61-79 - Valve Cover, 292
FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions
FTE 61-79 - Wheels Needed, '64 Stock
Re: FTE 61-79 - Good ole Flames
Re: FTE 61-79 - Need advice
Re: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oils/ was need advice
FTE 61-79 - Rear brake drum removal
FTE 61-79 - pushrods
FTE 61-79 - fuel tank
FTE 61-79 - oil consumption
RE: FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement
FTE 61-79 - Flames
RE: FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear brake drum removal
Re: FTE 61-79 - Thanks,more questions
FTE 61-79 - Re: Another PacNW yard
Re: FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement
FTE 61-79 - 460 questions
FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?
FTE 61-79 - Fuel pick-up problem
FTE 61-79 - synthetic oils/ was need advice
RE: FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement
FTE 61-79 - RE: Can I trust remanufactured engines?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions
RE: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oil in tranny
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions
RE: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?
FTE 61-79 - RE: Ignition Resistors
FTE 61-79 - Suspension
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear brake drum removal
FTE 61-79 - 300 I-6 oil consumption problems
FTE 61-79 - Lift Kits
RE: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oil in tranny
Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 300 I-6 oil consumption problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear brake drum removal
Re: FTE 61-79 - 300 I-6 oil consumption problems
RE: FTE 61-79 - Lift Kits
Re: FTE 61-79 - oil consumption
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions
RE: FTE 61-79 - Lift Kits
FTE 61-79 - Re: Dash repair kits (Armor All)
RE: FTE 61-79 - Lift Kits
RE: FTE 61-79 - Lift Kits
FTE 61-79 - Better than Liquid Wrench?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Lift Kits
FTE 61-79 - Hypertuectic Pistons for the 390
FTE 61-79 - Radials vs Bias Ply
FTE 61-79 - Steering columns, PS, and auto's....
Re: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oil in tranny
Re: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oil in tranny
FTE 61-79 - Yet more questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Yet more questions
RE: FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacemen

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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 07:47:34 -0500
From: TracyJones cinergy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oils/ was need advice

> ----------
> From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com[SMTP:JJJJJGRANT aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 21, 1999 12:27 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oils/ was need advice
>
> i would like to here other testimonials on synthetic oil, i just put it in
> my
> truck, i have put about 150 miles on it so far and can't tell any
> difference,
> everyone tells me to check the fuel mileage before and after.
>
> jeff grant
>
Hi Jeff
FWIW
I think most late model vehicles will benefit from synthetics but beware!
While doing the build-up on my 429, the instructions that came with the new
cam stated strongly, in big bold letters,

DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL WITH THIS CAMSHAFT!

And they weren't just talking about breakin period.

Also, I've read that synthetics can damage seals on some older engines.


YMMV and I'm gonna stand neutral ground on this issue.

Tracy
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:29:51 -0000
From: "Jeff Carver"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Valve Cover, 292

While messing with my coolant system, I noticed a drip
of oil coming from the left valve cover/head joint.
Obviously this gasket needs to be replaced, but
I haven't ever taken this cover off, so don't know
what to be wary of in terms of removal or installation.
What goos should I use upon installation?

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab




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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:37:10 -0000
From: "Jeff Carver"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement

Just did some financial dealings last night and
came away with some excess! I jokingly remarked
to my SO that "great, now I can get my truck fixed!".
She actually responded with a postive comment!

On to FT business.
I pulled a set (4) of springs from a wrecker last year
and now need to have new bushings installed all
around to prep for replacement for my flattened ones.

I don't have any presses hanging around, so who
would be the best equipped to do this type of job;
4x4 off road place? dealer? spring shop? regular
repair place? What questions should I ask, what
should I expect to pay?

What prep should I do to the springs.

I don't drive the truck much as the bushings are
so worn that I can feel the truck slide sideways
and clunk agains the suspension on turns. I am
trying to get the truck ready for daily commute use.

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 07:41:32 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions

At 07:36 PM 1/20/99 , you wrote:
>Thanks man, I'll give it a try. One problem....
>I don't have th originalair filter assembly... :(
>
Just putting a breather filter on will tell you if that is the problem,
then you can hunt down an original for your truck ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:42:28 -0000
From: "Jeff Carver"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wheels Needed, '64 Stock

Anybody have a set (4) of stock wheels for a '64 F100
hanging around, taking up space?

Due to long term suspension looseness problems
(hopefully fixed soon, see previous post) the tires
on the truck now are the stiffest tires available,
very old, and the rear wheels are oversize split rims.

I need a set of stock wheels to mount some radials
onto for use AFTER I get the suspension fixed.

I have NO interest in anything other than stock.

I am in the greater Sacramento area and travel a bit.

If I get this truck fixed up (soon) I would LOVE to
make it to Pigeon Forge '99!

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 07:47:26 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Good ole Flames

>nice and eveything, getting 13mpg! with 4.10 gears and 31x9's.
31x9's ? Who makes these ? Are they 16" rims ?



>on each side. Slowing down (under a load or sitting still), it shoot a
>flame out the drivers side at least a couple of feet, never on the
>passenger side. It dosent do it all the time, just sometimes. I ran a
>air leak-down test, and did a pressure test on the entire engine, and
>everything is sealed up good. Any ideas??
>
>Oh yea, there is a hole about the size of a quarter in the pipe where the
>front drive-shaft wore though. Could it be sucking air in there and
>combusting the pipe?
>
That could be part of it ... I had a 'stang that used to backfire
occasionally when you were backing off, when we took it in they said it was
supposed to have a pipe leading from the AIR pump to the Cat, but since I
didn't have a cat, there was no pipe, so there was no air forced through,
and that caused it....it sounds like you've got the opposite problem,
though I'm still baffled as to why .... are you running your timing really
advanced, or a rich mixture ?


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 07:50:25 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Need advice

>
> 1000 miles . Is this necessary
> or is there something else that can be done ? >>
>
>Today's oils with the latest API ratings should be able to withstand start and
>stop driving for at least 3000 miles.

When they say start and stop driving, don't they usually mean stoplight to
stopsign, not actually shutting the engine off and starting it back up
again ....


>Of course if you are serious about engine life and oil, use a good synthetic,
>Mobil-1, AMS-OIL, etc they will not change in your engine to something else.
>You will save money big time in the long run.

Probably some very good advice, if you can convince your company to do it ...

Bill
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:10:02 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oils/ was need advice

>i would like to here other testimonials on synthetic oil, i just put it in my
>truck, i have put about 150 miles on it so far and can't tell any difference,
>everyone tells me to check the fuel mileage before and after.
>
I'm on my first change of synthetic in my 96 Mustang ... my truck will
definitely have it when I get the 390 broke in. I changed it right before
a long trip, and the mileage was great, up 1 or 2 from my previous best
(that was going over 10mph faster than my previous best too), also noticed
it ran a shade cooler. Not much, but with the stupid old trucks it seems
like every little bit might help. Also with the way it poured out of the
bottle I can believe it will be great in cold weather, though the 'stang
gets to stay in the garage all winter and doesn't have to worry about starting.

My roommate also uses it, says he's used it for quite a while on his 351 in
his 86. That thing is beat on constantly (I've never seen a family so hard
on cars before) and it has over 80,000 with no major problems. All the
one's I've seen him have have been related to bolt on's that don't get oil.

Check out www.corral.net or www.mustangworld.com people out there swear by
the stuff for all their components (oil, tranny fluid, diff oil)


Just my 2cents

Bill

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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:14:24 -0600 (CST)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear brake drum removal

Good thing about the internet is ya'll can't laugh at me in person for asking this.

According to the Ford shop manual, to remove the rear brake drums on a 66 F100,
remove the hub cap, lug nuts, tire, THREE TERNNAN NUTS then the drum. I can't find
anything close to three nuts. Do I go ahead and start trying to pry off the drum after the
tire is off? I don't believe the brakes have been worked on in quite a while and think the
cylinder may be leaking.
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:20:52 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - pushrods

Bill Hart writes: >>Really ? What about the other end ? The side that goes
against the rocker arm ?

Of all the literature I've read on engines, this has never come up to the best
of my knowsledge. It won't hurt anything, but I wouldn't think it mattered as
much, since I've never seen it in print. The FE has rockershafts, and most of
the time the rockers are not removed from the shaft so they would stay in the
same location. If however you removed them from the shaft, that is another
matter. I honestly don't have an answer, but my opinion is that it doesn't
matter.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:32:31 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - fuel tank

Raymond Parsons writes: >> he truck is a 67 F250 C/S, and yes it is the in cab
tank. Unfortunately,
the pick up tube is welded to the top of the tank! I am taking it in to
have it repaired; I know I do not want to try welding on a tank!
Ray

Don't blame you for not working on it if it is welded. I have an "in cab" tank
with the fuel line and float intact that I will give you, and It "ain't"
welded. I'm located in North Alabama, 2 miles East of I-65 right on the
Tennessee State Line. Can't ship gas tanks, so you will have to have it picked
up, if you are interested. The tank is from a '74 F-250 4X4.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:37:30 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - oil consumption

Justin Farcas writes: >> I lose about 1/2 quart per week, or
around that much, but can't figure out why. Any help with this would be
appreciated.

Yo Justin. Just how many miles does this vehicle travel in a week. Miles is
what counts - not how long. Is it short trips?? What is the longest continuous
trip the vehicle takes??? All this matters.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:36:18 -0500
From: TracyJones cinergy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement

> ----------
> From: Jeff Carver[SMTP:truck.carver mailcity.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 21, 1999 8:37 AM
> To: Ford Trucks
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement
>
>
>
> On to FT business.
> I pulled a set (4) of springs from a wrecker last year
> and now need to have new bushings installed all
> around to prep for replacement for my flattened ones.
>
I assume you measured the springs eye to eye and know they will fit your
truck?

> I don't have any presses hanging around, so who
> would be the best equipped to do this type of job;
> 4x4 off road place? dealer? spring shop? regular
> repair place? What questions should I ask, what
> should I expect to pay?
>
>
> Jeff
> '64 F100 CrewCab
>
You can burn out the old rubber spring eye bushings with a propane torch.
After burning away most of the old rubber, knock the steel sleeve out with a
hammer. Clean the spring eye, lubricate your new 2 piece polyuerathane
bushings and they will slip right in. That was the easy part of the job.
To remove and replace the springs, you'll need 2 floor jacks and some very
tall jack stands (5 or 6 ton stands) to get the truck up in the air. I've
done this job by myself but it wasn't easy, those springs are rather heavy.
If you don't feel comfortable with this, call your local spring shop for an
estimate. Good luck.

Tracy



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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:48:34 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Flames

Cannondale writes: >>Oh yea, there is a hole about the size of a quarter in the
pipe where the
front drive-shaft wore though. Could it be sucking air in there and
combusting the pipe?

You just discovered the cause of the flames.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:12:52 -0700
From: "Miska, Richard L (Rick)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement

Does the heat from the torch hurt the integrety of the springs at
all???

Did some clipping. Rick
>
> > On to FT business.
> > I pulled a set (4) of springs from a wrecker last year
> > and now need to have new bushings installed all
> > around to prep for replacement for my flattened ones.
> >
> I assume you measured the springs eye to eye and know they will fit your
> truck?
>
> You can burn out the old rubber spring eye bushings with a propane torch.
> After burning away most of the old rubber, knock the steel sleeve out with
> a
> hammer.
>
>
>
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 07:18:31 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear brake drum removal

I didn't know that's what they're called but I believe they're those little
flat metal nuts that are put on to retain the drum instead of just the lug
nuts. They either rust away and never get replaced or never get put on after
brake jobs. Be real careful about prying on the drum. It's better to give
it a few hard shots on the outside face to break the rust around the axle
hub in the center.

- -----Original Message-----
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com;
Date: Thursday, January 21, 1999 6:24 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear brake drum removal


>Good thing about the internet is ya'll can't laugh at me in person for
asking this.
>
>According to the Ford shop manual, to remove the rear brake drums on a 66
F100,
>remove the hub cap, lug nuts, tire, THREE TERNNAN NUTS then the drum. I
can't find
>anything close to three nuts. Do I go ahead and start trying to pry off
the drum after the
>tire is off? I don't believe the brakes have been worked on in quite a
while and think the
>cylinder may be leaking.


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:27:46 -0500 (EST)
From: "Sean O'Malley"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Thanks,more questions

> about 2" of play in the steering .everything under the truck looks tight
> . With someone turning the wheel side to side ( about 4") nothing moves
> under the truck .

Could be the steering box, but you also ought to get under the truck,
grab each piece of the steering linkage, and give 'em a good shake.
That'll tell you if you have a bad drag link, etc.

- --sean
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 07:30:56 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Another PacNW yard

"Bill Beyer" wrote:
> Hey Mark, let us know what you find if you go! It does sound
> like a good lead!

Yesterday, I gave them a call:

Him: Hello?
Me: Is this Ford Truck Parts?
Him: Yes.
Me: I'm looking for a rear sump oil pan for a 390, for a 4X4.
Do you have one?
Him: Yes.
Me: How much is it?
Him: $100.
Me: $100?
Him: Yes.
Me: Thank You.

Just to give you an idea what I am thinking, Light Truck
Parts didn't have one, but said if they did, it would be
$50. Another place had one and wanted $75, but now of
course I don't want to pay more than $50 so I didn't write
it down and can't remember who it was. When someone brought
up Woody's, I gave them a call. During the conversation
I asked if they have ever done a conversion to integral
power steering on a Ford. He said they have done a few
and would charge $1000-1200. I don't know if it is worth
it, I am considering looking into it further, but integral
power steering is definitely worth more than 10-12 $100
oil pans. Am I making any sense?

I figure the more specialized a place is, the higher the
prices are going to be. Also, the higher the prices are, the
more likely the place will have hard to find items because
people tend to look elsewhere.

This morning I was thinking that the way this call went, I
might have called someone's house and they were just messin'
with me.

I guess I will have to drive down there to find out.

Mark in Southwest Washington
- --
'74 F-100 4X4
'74 F-250 Supercab

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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 07:32:44 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement

I did this on an old set of 4X4 springs and it didn't hurt them. You don't
have to get the springs red hot. You're just trying to get the rubber to
melt.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Miska, Richard L (Rick)
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Thursday, January 21, 1999 7:20 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement


> Does the heat from the torch hurt the integrety of the springs at
>all???
>
>>
>> You can burn out the old rubber spring eye bushings with a propane torch.
>> After burning away most of the old rubber, knock the steel sleeve out
with
>> a
>> hammer.
>>
>>
>>


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:35:16 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions

Where's Sleddog when you need him....

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:35:21 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?

I'll throw in something here....I just picked up a longblock 400M from Ford,
cost about $1,200. I liked this idea because of the warranty and
theoretically, you should be able to return it to any Ford dealership if there
is a problem....

And, as Tony The Man says, you might consider going to the 390....

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:35:10 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel pick-up problem

Hey Ray,

OK, you're right....I was thinking of the sending unit.....I knew I had brazed
something in there! Its my saddle tanks that have the removable pickup
tube.....Sorry!

I'll be interested to hear what ends up happening....has anyone else removed
this tube?

Colorado Jeff




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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:36:13 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oils/ was need advice

Hey Jeff,

I've been running synthetic oil in my truck, car, lawn tractor, dirt
bike...etc. for several years now. Never had a leaking problem (like many
people said they had) and like you, I have not noticed a whole lot of
difference while driving. However, I noticed one important difference. When
hitting the ignition, the engine definitely intially "turns" faster than with
the regular oil. This seemed like a good deal to me.... less friction before
the oil pressure builds up.....

Next, I'm going to try the synthetic gear lube in the NP 435 tranny and see
what happens..

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:38:55 -0500
From: TracyJones cinergy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement

> ----------
> From: Miska, Richard L (Rick)[SMTP:MiskaRL louisville.stortek.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 21, 1999 10:12 AM
> To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '64 Leaf Spring Bushing Replacement
>
> Does the heat from the torch hurt the integrety of the springs at
> all???
>
> Did some clipping. Rick
>
The heat from a propane torch shouldn't hurt a thing, just don't let the
springs get cherry red. I discovered this trick from a 'Truck' show on TNN
where an off-road shop was doing some suspension upgrades with Rancho parts.
A good parts house may have the poly bushings in stock. If not, try Rancho,
Trailmaster or Superlift.

Tracy

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 07:43:50 PST
From: "MARTY COLMAN"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Can I trust remanufactured engines?

I have a 73 F100 with a remanufactured 390 with about 75k on it. Has
been a very good motor for me. All the mechanics I tell that to around
here say I'm living on borrowed time. It was already in when I bought
the pickup, but if I had to do it I don't think I would get a reman. I
worked at a shop for several years and saw alot of troubles with
remanufactured motors, especially Marshall. One 88 Ford 300 had to be
replaced three times before it would make it out of their warranty time!
Another v8 had to be replaced as well. Both started using oil and
knocking. I would advise getting it rebuilt by a trusted mechanic or
friend, then you can be sure of the quality of the motor. Often,
mechine shops have nearly the same warranty as a remanufacturer. Just
my 2 cents.

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:49:58 -0700
From: "Miska, Richard L (Rick)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?

I was told at a local Dick Cepek store that superlift was the best brand for
Bronco/f150. Any comments before I spend any money?

Colorado Rick

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 07:54:55 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions

Try the Performance list...

- -----Original Message-----
From: BDIJXS aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, January 21, 1999 7:41 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions


>Where's Sleddog when you need him....
>


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 11:00:44 -0500
From: TracyJones cinergy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oil in tranny

> ----------
> From: BDIJXS aol.com[SMTP:BDIJXS aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 21, 1999 10:36 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oils/ was need advice
>
snip

> Next, I'm going to try the synthetic gear lube in the NP 435 tranny and
> see
> what happens..
>
> Colorado Jeff
>
Let us know how that works for ya. I replaced the lube (90-140w ? ) in a
NP435 and the synchros never worked right again. I think the new (standard)
gear lube was too heavy.

While on the subject of gear lubes, has anyone ever used Slick-50 Gear lube
formulae in a NP205 T-case? I have a bottle sittin' on the shelf.

Tracy

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:02:52 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions

At 09:35 AM 1/21/99 , you wrote:
>Where's Sleddog when you need him....

Good point ... he's hidin on the performace list ... good discussion on
building a 460 for torque ...

Bill
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 11:04:11 -0500
From: TracyJones cinergy.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?

> ----------
> From: Miska, Richard L (Rick)[SMTP:MiskaRL louisville.stortek.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 21, 1999 10:49 AM
> To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'; 'truck'
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?
>
> I was told at a local Dick Cepek store that superlift was the best brand
> for
> Bronco/f150. Any comments before I spend any money?
>
> Colorado Rick
>
We talking about reman. engines or suspension components?

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:34:45 -0800
From: "Wiltzius, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Ignition Resistors

The ignition resistor (whether internal to coil or external) on a point
ignition system drops the voltage to the coil
AFTER starting to about 6 V. this makes for a cooler coil and longer lasting
points.

Tom
Reno,NV
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:50:07 -0700
From: "Miska, Richard L (Rick)"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Suspension

Sorry about the subject misquote. Talking about lift kit.

> > I was told at a local Dick Cepek store that superlift was the best brand
> > for
> > Bronco/f150. Any comments before I spend any money?
> >
> > Colorado Rick
> >
> We talking about reman. engines or suspension components?
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:38:53 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear brake drum removal

At 08:14 AM 1/21/99 , you wrote:
>Good thing about the internet is ya'll can't laugh at me in person for
>asking this.
>
We won't laugh ... that loud :) j/k

>remove the hub cap, lug nuts, tire, THREE TERNNAN NUTS then the drum. I
>can't find
>anything close to three nuts. Do I go ahead and start trying to pry off the
>drum after the
>tire is off? I don't believe the brakes have been worked on in quite a
>while and think the
>cylinder may be leaking.

Those nuts are probably long gone, anyone who's had brake work done will
tell you those never get put back on, all that holds the drums on are the
wheel and the shoes in it... you might want to crank the shoes in a bit to
let the drums slide off easier.

Good luck, I got lots of practice at brakes this summer (3 blown lines, 2
full changes, and rotor in a pear tree) so if you want to email me
privately I can probably help you out ...

Bill
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 11:14:01 -0600
From: Neal DePape
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 300 I-6 oil consumption problems

Hello,

I have a 68 Ford with a 78 300 I-6 in it. I recently swapped the head
for a mildly ported head and a new cam. Since then I have had troubles
with excess oil consumption, about 2 litres per 1000 miles. The motor
had little or no wear on the cylinder bores when the head was off and
doesn't appear to be burning large quantities of oil (no large puffs of
blue smoke or foul smell) so I am thinking it has an oil leak.
Unfortunately is stored outside over gravel and I haven't noticed any
puddles of oil.
What is the best way to find where the oil is leaking?

Neal

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 12:12:46 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Lift Kits

>> I was told at a local Dick Cepek store that superlift was the best brand
>> for Bronco/f150. Any comments before I spend any money?
>>
>> Colorado Rick


How high do you plan on going?

Actually, the best lift kit you can buy, is the one that you piece together
yourself for the money IMHO. My '78 has a 4 inch suspension lift including
Superlift coils with the factory load rating (so it's a cushy ride not a
buckboard) rugged trail drop trackbar bracket (but an adjustable trackbar
would be better if you have the money) a skyjacker drop pitman arm (drops
an inch lower than the superlift) rancho 5000 shocks, (with urethane
bushings (highly suggested)) and energy suspensions urethane C
bushing/radius arm/trailing arm bushings witha 2deg. caster. The rear
springs were brought up from a local spring shop 3 inches higher. Two
pictures should show ya'-
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony/pics/n14.jpg
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony/pics/n11.jpg
I personally really like this setup, The only thing I had to do that
didn't "quite cut it" was I welded the trackbar drop bracket to the old
drop bracket rather than just bolt it on because it wore loose every week.
After I welded it, i haven't had a problem since. (that was bout 2 years
ago)

Ok, enough blabbin' from me!

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 12:18:29 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oil in tranny

I hate to say this- and may get myself in some hot water- BUTTT!!!!

I read in my 78 shop manual that NP-435's are suppose to take "straight-50"
weight oil! I know the norm for every redneck I know (and no, that's not
derogitory (grin)) is to run the standard gear lube. When I rebuilt my
NP-435 I put 50 wt. oil in it, and the mysterious grind into fourth gear
(which I thought was a bad synchro) and the hard time getting it into first
at a dead stop (and, yes, the clutch linkage FULLY releases) completely
dissappeared.

Whattya' think?

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony


>> Next, I'm going to try the synthetic gear lube in the NP 435 tranny and
>> see
>> what happens..
>>
>> Colorado Jeff
>>
>Let us know how that works for ya. I replaced the lube (90-140w ? ) in a
>NP435 and the synchros never worked right again. I think the new (standard)
>gear lube was too heavy.
>
>While on the subject of gear lubes, has anyone ever used Slick-50 Gear lube
>formulae in a NP205 T-case? I have a bottle sittin' on the shelf.
>
>Tracy
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 12:30:30 -0500
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?

If I may be so bold ... did you just walk into your local Ford dealer's
parts department and ask for a remanufactured engine? Or does Ford have a
hot line, etc. Sounds like an interesting approach, going back to Ford ...
my interest is peaked!

John

At 10:35 AM 1/21/99 EST, you wrote:
>I'll throw in something here....I just picked up a longblock 400M from Ford,
>cost about $1,200. I liked this idea because of the warranty and
>theoretically, you should be able to return it to any Ford dealership if
there
>is a problem....
>


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 11:28:12 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 300 I-6 oil consumption problems

>I have a 68 Ford with a 78 300 I-6 in it. I recently swapped the head
>for a mildly ported head and a new cam. Since then I have had troubles
>with excess oil consumption, about 2 litres per 1000 miles. The motor
>had little or no wear on the cylinder bores when the head was off and
>doesn't appear to be burning large quantities of oil (no large puffs of
>blue smoke or foul smell)
I have heard you can do the top end twice for every time you do the lower
end ... since you have very little wear on the cylinders and no smoke I
would think you would be okay ...

so I am thinking it has an oil leak.
>Unfortunately is stored outside over gravel and I haven't noticed any
>puddles of oil.
>What is the best way to find where the oil is leaking?

If you can find a big piece of cardboard, and a dry day/night when you park
it, I would think the spot the oil is dripping off of would be easily
found. With as much as you are leaking, a good eye might be able to spot
the leak. Since you put in a new cam and lifters some loss would be
expected at first I would think ... how far have you driven it ?

Bill
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 11:37:33 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear brake drum removal

Bryan

I believe those nuts they may be talking about are little flat screw on clips.

I've had them on older cars. Most of the time if the drums have been pulled

before people don't bother to put them back on or loose them.

Larry



At 08:14 AM 1/21/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Good thing about the internet is ya'll can't laugh at me in person for
asking this.
>
>According to the Ford shop manual, to remove the rear brake drums on a 66
F100,
>remove the hub cap, lug nuts, tire, THREE TERNNAN NUTS then the drum. I
can't find
>anything close to three nuts. Do I go ahead and start trying to pry off
the drum after the
>tire is off? I don't believe the brakes have been worked on in quite a
while and think the
>cylinder may be leaking.
>Bryan Kirking
>66 Step Side
>352 4 speed
>Houston, Texas
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:06:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 300 I-6 oil consumption problems

Neal wrote:
> I have a 68 Ford with a 78 300 I-6 in it. I recently swapped the head
> for a mildly ported head and a new cam. Since then I have had troubles
> with excess oil consumption, about 2 litres per 1000 miles. The motor
> had little or no wear on the cylinder bores when the head was off and
> doesn't appear to be burning large quantities of oil (no large puffs of
> blue smoke or foul smell) so I am thinking it has an oil leak.
> Unfortunately is stored outside over gravel and I haven't noticed any
> puddles of oil.
> What is the best way to find where the oil is leaking?

Try the large cardboard idea someone suggested, but one thing that
caught my eye is that you wrote you swapped the head. Was this a
fresh head or one that has been around? You could have a problem
with valve guides and/or stem seals. Try watching in the mirror while
decellerating for blue smoke - a nice long downhill run with the
throttle closed works nicely for spotting this.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 11:22:31 -0700
From: "Miska, Richard L (Rick)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Lift Kits

What did all this cost rough idea? I was looking at 4 inch lift
like you said. Two questions:
1) No blocks in the rear? Did you do anything to reangle the rear
end for drive shaft angle, i.e. angles shims or something? Is it necessary
for a 4in lift?

2) Did you use dropped trailing arm brackets?

3) What size tires, what gear ratio are you using? ok that was
three questions.


> >> I was told at a local Dick Cepek store that superlift was the best
> brand
> >> for Bronco/f150. Any comments before I spend any money?
>
> Actually, the best lift kit you can buy, is the one that you piece
> together
> yourself for the money IMHO. My '78 has a 4 inch suspension lift
> including
> Superlift coils with the factory load rating (so it's a cushy ride not a
> buckboard) rugged trail drop trackbar bracket (but an adjustable trackbar
> would be better if you have the money) a skyjacker drop pitman arm (drops
> an inch lower than the superlift) rancho 5000 shocks, (with urethane
> bushings (highly suggested)) and energy suspensions urethane C
> bushing/radius arm/trailing arm bushings witha 2deg. caster. The rear
> springs were brought up from a local spring shop 3 inches higher. Two
> pictures should show ya'-
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony/pics/n14.jpg
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony/pics/n11.jpg
> I personally really like this setup, The only thing I had to do that
> didn't "quite cut it" was I welded the trackbar drop bracket to the old
> drop bracket rather than just bolt it on because it wore loose every week.
> After I welded it, i haven't had a problem since. (that was bout 2 years
> ago)
>
> Ok, enough blabbin' from me!
>
> Tony
> tony pscico.com
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:32:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - oil consumption

Short trips, in town mostly, frequent 6 miles, longest trip is 200 miles.

-Justin Farcas

> > Justin Farcas writes: >> I lose about 1/2 quart per week, or > around
that much, but can't figure out why. Any help with this would be >
appreciated. > Yo Justin. Just how many miles does this vehicle
travel in a week. Miles is > what counts - not how long. Is it short
trips?? What is the longest continuous > trip the vehicle takes??? All
this matters. > > Azie > Ardmore, Al. > > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and
posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


- --
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:34:04 -0500 (EST)
From: Justin Farcas
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 questions

Possible....the smeel is not that bad, but I can't really tell whether it
is oil or unburnt fuel....

>
> what type of rings is in the engine? chromoly rings take longer to seat, but i
> think 4500 miles is more than enough. you don't mention smoke so i assume
> there is not any. i have had two weird experiences with new engines. first one
> the cam wiped a lobe on the intake valve, the piston acted like a syringe and
> sucked oil in the cylinder, sounds weird but it happened, next one sucked oil
> up in the intake, past the improperly seated gaskets. the oil past the gaskets
> made very little smoke, almost undetected, the only way i knew it was driving
> at night and seeing it through approaching cars headlights. the cam deal made
> plenty of smoke and eventualy a stream of oil ran out the exhaust pipe.
>
> jeff grant
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


- --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:44:07 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Lift Kits

>What did all this cost rough idea? I was looking at 4 inch lift
>like you said. Two questions:

Rough Estimate:
$120Coils
$36Drop Trackbar bracket
$65 drop pitman arm
$120Rancho shocks
$30urethane font end kit
$20urethane shock bushings
$150rearch rear springs
$20bolt/nuts/such

>1) No blocks in the rear? Did you do anything to reangle the rear
>end for drive shaft angle, i.e. angles shims or something? Is it necessary
>for a 4in lift?

I have 4 inch blocks in the rear (which were factory) and that's all. I
didn't shim my rear axle for one reason- the angle at which the driveshaft
comes out of the transfer case must match the angle that it goes into the
rearend within 2 degrees. Without shims, mine does this. (shortbed) When
my truck was a longbed with the lift (yes, I swapped frames!) I had 1.5
degree shims in the rear. The shortbed eats spicer u-joints like candy
though every 6 months. (I accept that fact because of the radical lift)

>2) Did you use dropped trailing arm brackets?

No. I didn't see the need for them. Anything over 4 inch and I would
have. There is plenty of travel in both directions, and the "smash" on the
radius arm bushings is pretty constant. I personally don't think drops are
necessary, although other people may argue this point.

>3) What size tires, what gear ratio are you using? ok that was
>three questions.

BEEP!!! Too many questions. I refuse to answer any more!! 8-) I run
33x12.5x15 BFGoodrich Mud-Terrain T/A's.. (the ONLY tire in my opinion for
offroad and onroad use!!) they are on 10 inch wide steel wagonwheels with
a 3 5/8th's offset. I haven't had a problem with wheelbearings since I
replaces them about 2 years ago with Timkens. I CANT STRESS ENOUGH running
quality parts!!!

Hope that answers some of your questions and I didn't leave anything out!

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:03:39 -0600
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dash repair kits (Armor All)

>i had an old painter to tell me to clean vinyl with a grease & wax remover,
>and when ready to dye, put laquer thinner in a paint gun and mist the vinyl
>with it and then immediately spray the dye on. he says the thinner actually
>melts the vinyl and then when dyed it impregnates into the material. i've
>never tried it, but it sounds logical.


Dunno 'bout it melting the vinyl. I sell vinyl inks and such and I doubt
lacquer thinner would do it. It takes a pretty hot ketone to attack vinyl.
However, I have painted several vinyl parts using SEM brand vinyl paints and
have been pleased. I would:
1. Wash part with hot, soapy water, using fine scrub brush, like for
fingernails. Rinse thoroughly.
2. Wipe part several times with Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol (this is a
printer's trick to get past plasticizer combinations.
3. SEM makes a cleaner/prep spray. Use it.
4. Then paint.
5. Make sure the environment is comfortable room temperature, and, if the
part is warmed up some (like a hair dryer) before using the cleaner, it
should work better.

Jim E.



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Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 01:07:50 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Lift Kits

Oops! 3.5 axle ratio also! 8-)

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:38:01 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Lift Kits

>Rough Estimate:
>$120Coils

This brings up an interesting question (in my mind) ... my truck is kind of
cludged together, incase you haven't noticed from previous posts, and it
sits with a "rake" to it. That is the front is not nearly as high as the
back. I was originally going to pull the blocks out of the rear, but I
noticed doing this would lower it to 2wd height, and while there's nothing
wrong with that, I would like the extra clearance. What is the best way to
lift the front end ? I have no idea what coils are in it (2wd could have
even been used knowing the guy who put it together), also don't know if
mine are just sagging or old, or if they are actually shorter ?

Anyway workin on this new motor and don't necessarily have the funding, but
I would like to level it out eventually and want to know what the best way
to go about that might be both for cost effectiveness and functionality
(don't want to just put a 2" pad under the spring, that seems dangerously
unstable)

Thanks guys
Bill
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 15:03:21 -0500 (EST)
From: jdklaers mailhost.magicnet.net (PredFan)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Better than Liquid Wrench?

Anybody here know something better than Liquid Wrench for removing the
toughest stuck bolts?

Specifically, I trying to remove the nuts on my exhaust manifold where it
attaches to the tail pipe.

John


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Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 02:00:52 -0500
From: Tony Marino
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Lift Kits

Hey Bill!

Chances are, your coils are just sagging. With my '78 I had the same exact
2 inch rake to it that you are talking about. When I installed the 4"
lift, I ended up gaining 5 and a half inches in the front. From measuring
a friends stock truck with new factory coils, mine did sit lower than
stock, and the 4" that superlift claimed was accurate- Thus, my fronts were
sagging. I know MANY different manufacturers supply aftermarket "leveling"
kits that you could purchase, but might I suggest you go to a reputable
local spring shop and talk to them. That's what my friend did with Stuver
Spring here in Akron Ohio. It ended up he gained 2 inches from the sagging
height on his '78 to achieve a level stance and all for the low price of
$65 bucks for both coils. With just wanting to level your truck, no other
modifications to steering, caster, trackbar, or such should need to be
done. Anything larger than 2" level, is another story. 8-) And yes, DO
NOT put a pad under them! If you do go this route, the spring swap can be
done in your driveway in a matter of hours. (provided no bolts break,
which is rarely the case!)

Tony
tony pscico.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony

At 01:38 PM 1/21/99 -0600, you wrote:
>>Rough Estimate:
>>$120Coils
>
>This brings up an interesting question (in my mind) ... my truck is kind of
>cludged together, incase you haven't noticed from previous posts, and it
>sits with a "rake" to it. That is the front is not nearly as high as the
>back. I was originally going to pull the blocks out of the rear, but I
>noticed doing this would lower it to 2wd height, and while there's nothing
>wrong with that, I would like the extra clearance. What is the best way to
>lift the front end ? I have no idea what coils are in it (2wd could have
>even been used knowing the guy who put it together), also don't know if
>mine are just sagging or old, or if they are actually shorter ?
>
>Anyway workin on this new motor and don't necessarily have the funding, but
>I would like to level it out eventually and want to know what the best way
>to go about that might be both for cost effectiveness and functionality
>(don't want to just put a 2" pad under the spring, that seems dangerously
>unstable)
>
>Thanks guys
>Bill
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 14:35:16 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hypertuectic Pistons for the 390

For anyone intending to rebuild a 390, Federal Mogul makes a
hypertuectic piston under the Sterling brand part #H304P. They have an
.080 dish and 4 valve reliefs, just like the 8.5 to 1 truck piston. I
hope once I get another job I can build the '69 390 I have out back in
my '67 F100, for use in my '65. I intend to use the 65 390 T-bird heads
and intake I have had redone and salted away. Brad Hoyer of Brad's
Rebuild here in Sikeston, MO (my brother-in law) has been building some
the finest engines I've ever seen using hypertuectic pistons, and top
quality machine work. He uses a company in Carbondale, IL named
Mac-Weld to do his machine work, and it is first class! He put together
a 460 for an '85 F250 4X4 that is so quiet and powerful you just
wouldn't believe it. Ditto for a 360 D*dge in a 1 ton 4X4. If you live
anywhere around here and want a first-class engine job he can be reached
at (573)471-3252.

I wonder if anyone here has used the Wolverine Blue Racer RV cam in a
390 in a F250? If so how has it worked out?
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 20:41:47 -0000
From: "Jeff Carver"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Radials vs Bias Ply

A question came up on tires for my truck.

Currently there are some seriously stiff
bias ply tires on there. I'm thinking of
changing to radials.

One opinion I have heard is that with a
truck that heavy (CrewCab) and old,
and such, that radial tires may NOT have
a stiff enough sidewall.

Experience, Advice, Opinions?

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:41:21 -0800
From: "sam weatherby"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering columns, PS, and auto's....

I have plans to convert my truck to power steering and eventually an auto
tranny.
Any advice on what steering column I should look for to accomodate these
mods?
Thanks,
-srw

Sam Weatherby http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://insert.com/sammy
SWeatherby UsWest.Net A-SamWe Microsoft.com
'70 Grabber Sportsroof Mustang
'93 F-150 XLT Lightning
'98 HD FXD Super Glide
'65 F100


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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 17:30:55 -0500
From: "Phil"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oil in tranny

I recently put synthetic lube in my posi rear, and noticed as I was stuck on
some ice, only one wheel spinning, my posi worked before changing. IM going
to change back to regular lube to see if that was the problem.

Phil
66 F100 390 C6
79 F250 4x4 400m

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 16:45:49 -0600
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oil in tranny

At 04:30 PM 1/21/99 , you wrote:
>I recently put synthetic lube in my posi rear, and noticed as I was stuck on
>some ice, only one wheel spinning, my posi worked before changing. IM going
>to change back to regular lube to see if that was the problem.
>
From what I've heard on the 'stang side (yes we have posi's) you still need
the friction modifier ... I would guess that without it you'll coat the
plates and it'll do just what you said. Also if you have just trac-lok
then it is possible to spin just one tire faster than the other, especially
if one has more grip ... its not likely, but possible from what I hear ...


Just my 2cents

Bill

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'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Trucks/truck.html
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 17:26:34 -0700 (MST)
From: dsy_cby webtv.net (Tarry Harper)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Yet more questions

Ihave some more questions for all you knowlidgable Ford lovers.
Can a 289 be bolted to a T-18 tranny? We are going to try and put one
in a Jeep CJ-5 or 7. I can't remember which.
Secondly, I'm wondering if anyone knows how, or a place that can, take
the plastic dash bezel for the instrument cluster of a '66 F-100 and
restore it to its original luster. The coating is real dull and most the
places I have found that have one want $400.00 for it. I have the Custom
Cab panel with separate gauges.
Third and final question for now. Will The old "Cruise-o-matic" from a
'66 F-100 bot up to a 429. It was origanlly bolted to a 352.
Thanks for the help. If anyone is interested, you should try a Jacob's
magnum team electronic ignition system. It really does what they say it
does. Mine cost me $375.00 for the whole se up.

'66 F-100 Custom Cab long bed 4x2

Tarry

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 16:32:35 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?

Ford uses companies called F.A.R.s or Ford Authorized Remanufacturers. They
are usually local or regional companies who specialize in rebuilt parts,
everything from complete engines to p/s pumps. The quality varies quite a
bit although in order to qualify for the blue oval blessing they have to
provide a substantial warranty. When I was working for a dealership in the
mid 80s it was 12 mo/12K miles. You could take it to any Ford dealer and
have it repaired under warranty. As I said the quality varied I recall
installing 3 long block 2.3s in a Ranger before it even got out of the shop.
We took a tour of the shop and it was pretty amazing the quantity of parts
they process on a daily basis. You could tell most of the workers were
minimum wage tho'.

- -----Original Message-----
From: John F. Bauer III
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, January 21, 1999 9:36 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Can I trust remanufactured engines?


>If I may be so bold ... did you just walk into your local Ford dealer's
>parts department and ask for a remanufactured engine? Or does Ford have a
>hot line, etc. Sounds like an interesting approach, going back to Ford ...
>my interest is peaked!
>
>John
>
>At 10:35 AM 1/21/99 EST, you wrote:
>>I'll throw in something here....I just picked up a longblock 400M from
Ford,
>>cost about $1,200. I liked this idea because of the warranty and
>>theoretically, you should be able to return it to any Ford dealership if....


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