61-79-list-digest Wednesday, June 9 1999 Volume 03 : Number 198



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 frozen caliper key
Re: FTE 61-79 - Alternative fuels, anyone?
FTE 61-79 - RE:Brake light won't work
FTE 61-79 - RE:Ohio E-Check Question For Fellow Ohio FTEer's
FTE 61-79 - Propane Info (Engines)
FTE 61-79 - Re: C6 rebuild / TCI towing converter
Re: FTE 61-79 - Propane Info (Engines)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hot Starting
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 240 and a C6
FTE 61-79 - RE: Timing Marks, Junk Parts Counter
Re: FTE 61-79 - Propane Info (Engines)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Propane Info (Engines)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ohio E-Check Question For Fellow Ohio FTEer's
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ohio E-Check Question For Fellow Ohio FTEer's
FTE 61-79 - old parts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hot Starting
FTE 61-79 - Brake light won't work
Re: FTE 61-79 - Propane Info (Engines)
FTE 61-79 - MY FIRST OFFROADING TRIP!
FTE 61-79 - Texas inspection woes
FTE 61-79 - Re: Junkyard Tips
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ohio E-Check Question For Fellow Ohio FTEer's
FTE 61-79 - weight terminology
FTE 61-79 - 460 swap won't start
FTE 61-79 - timing marks and junk yards
FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - weight terminology
Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem
FTE 61-79 - Suprecab
Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem
FTE 61-79 - dana 60-70 hubs/spindles/axle sizes
FTE 61-79 - Drilling/Sleeving
Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - Drilling/Sleeving
Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem

=======================================================================

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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 03:34:41 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 frozen caliper key

Beth and Alan wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
> Just signed up and I have to say I had predetermined thoughts about this
> being a bunch of knuckleheads giving misinformation to each other. Boy, was
> I wrong! Overall I'm very impressed with the knowledgeable, intellilegent,
> helpful, attitude everyone has.
>
> O.K. with the backslapping over I'm humbly asking help with my beast...
> Front brakes, jack up, wheels off, remove caliper retaining screw, try to
> tap the support key out, Hmmm. Try bigger hammer. Nothing. Try yet bigger
> hammer, start to dent support key.


Use a bigger hammer yet, and plan on buying new parts. When I did the
brakes on my '73, the keys ended up looking like something that came out
of a crusher! New ones are fairly cheap and worth the extra expense.
Tried penetrating oil?
Jason
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 02:39:54 -0700
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Alternative fuels, anyone?

WOW !!! i went away for the weekend and all the email......

I have a couple of neet books here the best one is released by the SA
Design company called "Propane fuel conversion" ISBN 0-931472-12-1 for
those who want to try and find it. I gives the basic info anyone needs
to understand how it all works and how to put it in. I can relate alot
more for anyone who wants.

> I'm curious, though, isn't propane just as damaging to the environment?
>

In regards to emmisions the same engine on propane is as much as 10
times cleaner in percentages of carbon monoxide (%CO) and total
emissions may be as little as 50% of the levels emitted by a gas engine.
by the way natural gas produces only 25% total emissions compared to
gas. A propane engine will be cleaner in oxides of nitrogen (NOX)
because their is a lower heat value to the fuel, and as a rule NOS
emissions go up or down in relation to combustion temperature.
Hydrocarbons (HC) may be improved but it is more based on the engine, a
good engine with tight rings and good timing will be as good as or a bit
better than the same engine on gas.
If you had a perfect engine the air to fuel ratio would be 14.7 to 1
with propane en engine will run at a nice lean 18.0 to 1 if you really
want to be environmentally and pocketbook friendly.

I performed the conversion myself I have a shortbox and my main use is
hiway and offroad so i used an 70 gallon in the box tank. Under the hood
their is a vacum operated fuel lock (shuts off flow if engine stops), A
converter or vaporizer that acts as a two stage regulator to lower the
pressure (convert the liquid propane to a gas) and a mixer (the carb),
that only has two adjustments one for idle mixture and one for
exerything above.

To depress you, i bought everything including the hoses for $200.00
canadian from a local wrecker. To buy it all new is about $1000 to $1500
Can dollars. they still had 7 more complete systems for the same price
some had saddle tanks some had manifold thanks (in the frame).

As a side note this was a chevy only wrecker and when the owner saw my
Ford on the lot he asked what the $% % is that doing here all i could
say was "Running"


Jeffrey Osier-Mixon wrote:
>


> Also, how much did your conversion cost? Did you perform it yourself?
>
> Thanks again
>
> Jefro
> --
> Impossibilium nulla obligatio est.
>
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 05:57:58 -0400
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Brake light won't work

Does the light socket have a black mark on it? When this happened to me, I
had to replace both sockets. The ground that touches the side of the bulb
rusted, shorted, (who knows) and nothing would work right. Open circuit in
the lighting system and the rear door window.

MCB


From: Brett Withers
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brake light won't work

I'll try this again. I have a 78 bronco and the drivers side brake light
will not work when the headlights are on. I've checked the switch, bulb,
circuit, and all the wiring I can see. The brake light works fine when the
headlights are off. The brakelight and taillight are separate filaments so
I can't figure out what is shorting out. Help.

RBW
65 F100 352 police interceptor
74 bronco
78 bronco
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 06:20:01 -0400
From: "PmctBaker"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Ohio E-Check Question For Fellow Ohio FTEer's

Sean,

I'm in Waynesville not far from you. E-Check was a piece of cake. When I
told the Lady it has over 200,000 miles on it, and I didn't know the
history of the truck, She just gave me the test with what I had. The visual
she gave me was for cats and mufflers.
She never opened the hood.

Good Luck
MCB

pmbaker your-net.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www3.your-net.com/~pmbaker
"The only truly revolutionary act left is to tell the truth about
everything."
- -Robert Anton Wilson



From: "Sean R. Kerns"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ohio E-Check Question For Fellow Ohio FTEer's

Hey guys,

I'm in an unusual situation, and I hope somebody else out
there is in Ohio and has run into this (or lives in another
state and wants to commiserate...).
I've got a '79 F-250 4x4 that I bought from a guy in
Kentucky (I live in Cincinnati, OH - across the river) in
1990. The guy _he_ bought the truck from used the truck to
pull a camper trailer, and had replaced the stock 351(M?)
with a 429 4-barrel from an older Thunderbird, and put dual
exhaust on it (with no cats or other emissions equipment).
Now, at the time I bought this truck, I knew this
engine/exhaust wasn't original, but it wasn't a big deal,
because the truck was otherwise what I wanted, and at the
time, Ohio only required emissions testing for 1980 and
newer vehicles (KY didn't and apparently still doesn't test
anything).

So, fast forward a few years, and now we have this E-check
system in place, which requires visual and tailpipe
inspection/testing for anything 25 years old and newer.
Through various legislative mis-starts and snafus, I haven't
had to get it tested yet, but I got notice in the mail that
this year, it will need to be tested (reg. expires in
August). There's no way in hell it can pass. Even if, by
some miracle, it passed the tailpipe test with no cats,
it'll never pass a visual.

So has anyone else had this happen? If so, what do you do?
The usually unhelpful lady at the license bureau said
something about if I fail, I have to put into it in
repairs to try to make it pass (sliding scale of $$
depending on year), and then if it still doesn't pass, they
give me the reg. anyway, and I can repeat the whole ordeal
again in two years, till it makes it to 25.
Is this true?
If it had had the original stuff in it when I got it, I'd
have gladly left it alone, but that decision was made for
me, and this engine isn't even set up for the emissions
stuff. The 429 is very nice, and goes like hell (esp. with
the 4.10 gears), but I'd have left the 351 2-barrel in it
just to avoid the hassle.

Thanks in advance,

Sean
'79 F-250 4x4, Cincinnati, OH

- - --
Sean R. Kerns (aka Snake)
e-mail: music bloodspoint.com
Bloodspoint Studio - Home of Stalking Horse
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bloodspoint.com
"You're in a band... That's like a business class ticket to
cool, with complimentary mojo after
takeoff...">>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 04:35:36 -0700
From: John Lord
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Propane Info (Engines)

I have had alot of requests about propane info this last week so i will
start with engine questions / Info.

This is detailed and gives all the recomended things t od ofor the
perfect propane engine. (It is worth it).

(any info i give involving prices will be canadian and mesurement will
be metric, i am sorry but the canadian government mad me this way).

In general you can put propane on any engine but keep in mind that a
tired engine using gas will still be a tired engine on propane.

I have seen trucks etc... with propane in them with no changes made and
they will run fine for years but unless you make some changes you will
think your engine has lost something. Alot of fleet and Canadian miltary
big trucks were converted and they gave up on it because they thought
they now owned gut-less trucks. If you follow the right guidelines you
will find you have just as much or more power than you ever had.

The basics....

You must change your ignition timing!!! This is the most important
single change.
Their is more inital timing, different mechanical and vacum advance
curves and a bit less total advance. I can anyone the specs, but i
recomend you go to a shop with a machine designed to set distributors up
right. I do it with a bit of work and a timing light if anyone wants to
try i can give them details.
If you build a high compression engine you really must have electronic
ignition with a good or aftermarket coil. The higher the compression the
harder it is for the spark to jump across the electrodes.

On V-8's their is an exaust passage running under the carb to keep the
intake manifold warm it helps to keep the gasoline in a gassious state
and helps the carb in the winter. Propane is already in a gassious state
and the mixer (Carb) cannot freeze so this passage should be blocked off
as the higher temps can lower the octane value of propane.
Along the same lines you should replace your thermostat with one that
opens at 160 deg F, I also tried a plastic carb spacer and aftermarket
heat sheilding plates (under the spacer) and got very good results.
Some go as far as to put in a valley pan under the intake manifold to
keep the hot oil off it. For I-6 engines you have to seperate the intake
and exaust manifolds and plug the now open ports.

Engine, Top end...

The heads will be just fine for a limited amount of time if all you
money goes into the purchase of the propane system the heads can wait
for a while.

The only thing in question is valve seats. The stock exaust valve seats
will eventually wear out untill the valve recesses into the head
reducing performance untill the point that the valve will not seat at
all. You should have the heads rebuilt and you need to ask the shop to
put in hardened exaust seats made for propane, I rebuild heads for extra
cash and these type of seats are available for all common north american
engines. Later model engines made after the end of leaded gas will last
longer but they will eventually wear out just the same. The reason for
this is simply that propane has no lubricating properties.

Their are two myths about rebuilt heads for propane. one is that you
cannot use bronze valve guide inserts as the will not last with propane.
THIS IS NOT TRUE, bronze is a better material than cast iron and
generally last longer in all conditions. The other is that you cannot
use "roto caps" as they will case the seats to wear sooner. THIS IS NOT
TRUE. As long as you have good strong valve springs their is no problem.
What happens with weak springs is that the valve is still rotating when
it hits the seat causing wear. This will not happen with good springs so
don't go out of your way to change things or do something silly like
weld your roto caps to keep them from spinning.
If you feel like porting or polishing your heads go ahead every little
bit helps with any engine on any fuel.

Engine, Bottom end....

If your engine was good to begin with you dont need to rush out and
rebuild it. My uncle has been running on the same old 390ci bottom end
for 10 years since his propane conversion with the old pistions etc...
with no problems. If you feel it is time to rebuild anyway, it is really
recomended that you put in high compression pistions. Propane is slower
burning bringing the octane rating up to between 105 and 110 points.
Doing this will make up for the 10% loss in power that propane
inherently has.
You do not need the expensive pistons either but it may be the only
choice. (If you own a 300 I-6 you will find that you can bore your
engine .030 over and use original sized pistons from a 390 they will fit
and bring your compression up without spending alot of money.
\ It is recomended that you stick to around 10.5 to 1 for a truck that
will haul medium sized loads. (Mine are 11.5 to 1).
If your going to overbore the cylinders you can leave the clearance
between the piston and wall a thousands of an inch tighter because the
engine runs cooler and the pistons dont expand as much. (I have a set of
Keith Black hyperutectic pistons in my engine with only 2 thousands of
an in clearance and after 15 thousand miles i took my pan off and the
cylinder walls look as good as new).

Other than that you can rebuild or treat your engine just like any
other.


If anyone is interested, I am running a 1972 351W as a replacement to a
300 I-6, with 11.5 to 1 compression the rest of the block has an
performance cam and a high volume oil pump, other than polishing off the
casting leftovers and repalacing tired parts i did nothing special to
the block.
The heads have hardend seats and have been ported and polished. I am
using a factory cast iron 4bbl manifold and Tuned headers made for a 5.0
liter mustang. It is in a 1974 F-250 4x4 Crew Cab Shortbox with a
standard 4 speed and 4.10 gears, Because of the gears i didnt design the
engine for alot of low end torque and the great thing is i can still
pull a 23 foot boat no problem and pass cars at over 100+ miles per
hour.
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 06:47:22 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: C6 rebuild / TCI towing converter

> David, I don't have any experience with the converter you are referring
> to, however I can tell you from personal experience that I have not had good
> luck with TCI converters. I would be interested to hear from other list
> members who have used TCI converters. I am currently using a Heavy Duty/
> Towing converter in my '69 F250 w/C6 and am very happy with it. I got it
> from my local tranny guy. I believe it is a rebuilt stock unit. It was also
> very reasonable compared to a similar B&M/TCI unit. I think it was $110. I
> have used several aftermarket converters and have come to the conclusion
> that unless you are in need of very high stall speeds or are using nitrous,
> blower or something of that nature, you are paying more than you have to for
> a quality converter. Most transmission shops have access to new and rebuilt
> converters that are quite adequate for most applications(quality is usaully
> not an issue as most trans installers don't like having to replace bad parts
> any more than we do), there is very little if any difference in the
> manufacture of these units until you get to the serious race type stuff.
> Shop around a little too, it took me a while to find a shop that wasn't just
> interested in how much money they could get me to spend there. Hope
> this helps. Steve Salas

I have a friend who races a rail, semi-pro(John Lingenfelter builds all
of his engines, and Marv Ripes does the trannys). TCI approached him
offering him a sponsorship, all the free converters you can break, and
contingency money. The guy used to run partners with Herb McCandless
for Chr*sler back in the '60's and knew the value of any kind of
sponsorship, so he took it on. He had the season from hell that year.

Converter after converter. You couldn't dial it in worth a darn, and
when you did, it would break. Two-thirds through the season he dropped
the sponsorship. I don't think I'd want to fool with TCI.

While I'm thinking of it. This guy is also a member of the AeroCar
club, and owns not one but two Ply*uoth Superbirds(one with a Hemi). At
the fall Nascar race in Talladega, the club will be there with a bunch
of the '60's AeroCars. Talladegas, Superbirds and Daytonas. They'll be
doing parade laps, and will have a show and shine on the back stretch.
I hope to be there, I'd sure hate to miss it.

I'd think that it would be hard to beat the OEM mid-70's F250 converter
for towing, a replacement through Ford, or most good tranny shops. I
don't trust aftermarket stuff as much as OEM stuff.
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 07:48:13 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Propane Info (Engines)

In a message dated 6/9/99 7:38:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, thelord home.com
writes:

> engine for alot of low end torque and the great thing is i can still
> pull a 23 foot boat no problem and pass cars at over 100+ miles per
> hour.

I really appreciated the information on the propoane conversion. It presents
a very appealing and intruguing option. I read everything very carefully and
intently. Therefore, I recall you stating that everything was going to be
in metric. Did you do the speed conversion just to tease us or should that
really read 100+ KPH???

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 07:53:23 EDT
From: Steer1098 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hot Starting

Don't forget that the starter's position with respect to the manifold causes
the starter to get very hot. A starter shield may help the problem.
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 07:51:44 -0400
From: j arnold
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 240 and a C6

At 11:17 PM 6/8/97 -0500, you wrote:
>The problem is, I can't find a 4-spd. anywhere around here, I live near Ft.
>Worth. If anyone has one, I would be glad to buy one.
>

Don't know how you feel about driving, but, down close to San Antone, right
outside Seguin, there is a Ford only junkyard, last time I was there (about
3 years ago) they had about 5 acres of old ford trucks, if you can't find a
NP435 or T-18 in there somewhere, things have drastically changed. Note:
middle of June? Be sure and wear boots, sunflowers should be about 5 foot
tall and snakes are always a possibility in that country. If you do make
the trip, let me know as I remember a bunch of old Lincoln Continentals in
there I'd like to check for 460's. Can't remember exact location, in
country, but Seguin is still pretty small so if you ask around someone will
know it. Best I remember, got exact directions at Ford dealership.

Good Luck,
Stoney

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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 07:10:04 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Timing Marks, Junk Parts Counter

> A man tried to do the lay and leave trick at my local junkyard, and the
> owner (who I know personally) chased him down in his Mustang GT, dragged
> him out of the truck, told him the $20 part he tried to pay $10 for was now
> $100, or jail, and don't come back again. I have found the best way to get
> good prices at a junkyard is to befriend the owner or price setter, and
> show him everything you get so they are sure you are not stealing from
> them. (I even show them the nuts, bolts and fuses I take, they are always
> free) Once they get used to you, you will be amazed at what they will just
> give you, and prices come down quick being a regular (Ah it nice to live
> 1/2 mile from a junkyard).

I agree with your approach.

The guy I do a little business with around here on the old stuff is
named Big Red. He's about 60 and 6'8 and weighs about 300 lbs. If he
doesn't like you, you won't get to go out in his yard at all. If you
get along with him, and you're getting a few things, he'll tell you to
take all the bolts and clips you want for the vehicle you're getting the
stuff for, but nothing else. If he see's you poking around in something
else, he'll send his 110 lb German Shepard out to escort you back to the
barn, take all of your parts away, and refuse to sell you anything.
That's fair, and I'd no more try to get over on him than I would any one
else. I respect him, he respects me. And he loves to dicker, I think
the customers who come out and tease and josh around with him are what
keeps the old guy going. He'll throw you a price with a twinkle in his
eye, and I'll throw one back. We always meet in the middle, and what we
both know the part is worth. It's never failed.

You get high handed with someone, or assume he's cheating you, there's
no respect there. He won't respect you either. I'd rather do business
in a respectful way, with people I like.

No flames intended for anyone, but this has worked for me for a long
time. If you can't trust the guy, go to someone you can. He needs your
business.
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 05:27:46 -0700
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Propane Info (Engines)

I really ment MPH i was brought up in school just as everything went
metric and my father is a machinist so he and my old 1974 speedometer
have me do some things the good old way...

Also i usually get to my email just before bed around 2 to 4 AM and i
tend to miss a few things...

TBeeee aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/9/99 7:38:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, thelord home.com
> writes:
>
> > engine for alot of low end torque and the great thing is i can still
> > pull a 23 foot boat no problem and pass cars at over 100+ miles per
> > hour.
>
> I really appreciated the information on the propoane conversion. It presents
> a very appealing and intruguing option. I read everything very carefully and
> intently. Therefore, I recall you stating that everything was going to be
> in metric. Did you do the speed conversion just to tease us or should that
> really read 100+ KPH???
>
> Stock Man
> 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
> 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 05:29:48 -0700
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Propane Info (Engines)

Somtime soon i will mention some of the details about propane
instalation and safety it could save you all some money depending on
local regulations.

TBeeee aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/9/99 7:38:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, thelord home.com
> writes:
>
> > engine for alot of low end torque and the great thing is i can still
> > pull a 23 foot boat no problem and pass cars at over 100+ miles per
> > hour.
>
> I really appreciated the information on the propoane conversion. It presents
> a very appealing and intruguing option. I read everything very carefully and
> intently. Therefore, I recall you stating that everything was going to be
> in metric. Did you do the speed conversion just to tease us or should that
> really read 100+ KPH???
>
> Stock Man
> 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (in need of factory rims)
> 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/index.htm
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 09:06:56 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ohio E-Check Question For Fellow Ohio FTEer's

We have this coming in NJ. What COVA/CVAG is trying to do it get a
modifed performance liscense plate. This would allow only an idle test,
any mods you want under the hood, but only 5000 miles per year allowable
milage. So far, we managed to get the state to submit it to the EPA, but
I understand the EPA is sitting on it. I suggest you contact COVA/CVAG
(http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.COVACVAG.ORG/covacvag001.htm) to see exactly whats going on
and get involved in your state.

Also, Karen Brown, a small business Ombudsman for the EPA is looking
for written concerns from collectors, hobbyists, ect... Discussions were
opened with her through COVA/CVAG. She can be written to at

Ms karen Brown
c/o United states Environmental protection agency (US EPA)
401 M Street Southwest 2131
washington, DC 20460


OX
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 08:14:24 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ohio E-Check Question For Fellow Ohio FTEer's

>The guy _he_ bought the truck from used the truck to
>pull a camper trailer, and had replaced the stock 351(M?)
>with a 429 4-barrel from an older Thunderbird, and put dual
>exhaust on it (with no cats or other emissions equipment).

>August). There's no way in hell it can pass. Even if, by
>some miracle, it passed the tailpipe test with no cats,
>it'll never pass a visual.
>

Do these tests cost you anything ? If not, then be sure you have a
complete tune on the truck, new points, condensor, rotor, cap, wires,
plugs, and that everything is gapped and set exactly as it should be, that
will help more than anything else ... might be able to lean out the carb a
bit too ... just remember how much you turned it and turn it back when you
get done with the testing ? If you want to throw converters on ahead of
time, maybe some hi flo ones that way you don't lose a lot of power.
Depending on how strict the tests are, I think you could be surprised what
a good tune up and some cats will do to clean the motor up ... also with a
truck that old, most places I would bet won't care that it doesn't have ALL
the emissions stuff on it, ask around, the performance people in your
neighborhood can probably tell you who will be most lenient on you ...

Oh yeah, and FWIW ... the new GT's, and possibly Cobras can pass the
emissions tests WITHOUT cats! yes they fail visual, but sometimes you get
someone who doesn't care, if it passes the sniffer, then you're good to go ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 08:18:31 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - old parts

>>Do yourself a favour grab an old bearing and stick under the seat=85you wil=
l be
so happy one day!!

Bruce is so right. My crossover tool box has all of my old belts, a spare
ignition module, an old rotor, and an old distributor cap. All of them
functioned when removed. I have been stranded once in the last 15 years
(dead battery that quit without warning). Extra radiator hoses wouldn't be =
a
bad idea either.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 08:19:18 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem

>I'm having a problem with shimmy on my 76 F100 4x4. Figured it was about
>time anyway, so I replaced the front end parts;
>kingpins,

Does everyone just call ball joints king pins, or are some of these trucks
really still running king pins on a 4x4 ??? I've seen a lot of references
to these lately, but when we did my mutt truck it had ball joints ....


springs, tierod
>ends, etc. Shimmy still there. Reached over and grabbed the track bar,
>pretty loose. Cool, I thought, $10 fix for new bushings. Wrong. When I
>removed the bolt I noticed that the hole has ovalled. Since the bracket IS
>part of the housing I guess my next step is to either weld up the hole and
>redrill or drill the 3/4" hole to 7/8" and have a sleeve built. Anybody
>have a better idea or been though this before?

Ah yes, finding out about the lovely track bar ... been there done that.
Mine too has the ovalled hole, but no one seemed to be able to come up with
a viable solution to fix it ... you can't get the pin out the back of the
bracket, so you can't weld the hole up and drill it back out...someone
suggested welding the bolt to the bracket, but haven't done that either ...

Be sure and check your tires and such, wide tires will increase the wander
across the road. As for an actual shimmy or shake, make sure EVERYTHING is
tight under there ... this track bar is just for centering the axle and
keeping it that way, it isn't causing the shimmy or shake ... fixing it may
actually transmit more of the shimmy to the chassis ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 08:23:14 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hot Starting

>The flywheel thing is still up in the air- does anyone have any info on
>this problem. I'm struggling on how a warped flywheel would cause a
>vehicle to not start when hot.
>

Unless it warps more as the motor heats up ... then when you try and start
it the gears won't be lined up anymore, it'll bind the starter teeth and
the ring gear teeth, viola hard to start ... just guessing, but I could see
how it would happen ... when things warp the spacing on the teeth is gonna
have to change a bit ... it would have to be pretty warped though .... kind
of like us ? :)


Also a problem I encountered a few years ago was a bad solenoid on the
inner fender ... this was mostly on the smaller cars ('stangs and cougars),
but when the temp got up around 100 and the car was shut off for about 10
min, someone would go out to hear a really funny vibration sound comin from
under the hood, and the starter would only spin a little ways ... can't
really describe the sound ... a wrench or fist to smack the solenoid once
and vroom, it would start right up .... not sure what it was that summer,
but I must've replaced 3 of them in a month and it was 3 different cars,
only one of them was mine .... the fix worked every time too.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 09:03:48 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brake light won't work

>>I'll try this again. I have a 78 bronco and the drivers side brake light
will not work when the headlights are on. I've checked the switch, bulb,
circuit, and all the wiring I can see. The brake light works fine when the
headlights are off. The brakelight and taillight are separate filaments so
I can't figure out what is shorting out. Help.

Brett,
You have a bad ground at the bulb. When the headlights are off, the brake
light grounds through the tail light bulb hot side. When you turn on the
head lights, that wire turns to +12 (actually +13.8) and the ground path
goes away. No more brake light (or turn signal or 4 way flasher on that
side). One of my rear bulb holders broke the wire off inside where it is
crimped to the holder. I drilled a couple of 1/4 inch holes in the right
place, soldered the connection, then used silicone to seal the hole I
drilled. You could just as well replace the bulb holder at very little
expense.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 10:15:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Sean O'Malley"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Propane Info (Engines)

What's the mileage like with propane?

- --sean
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 09:15:43 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - MY FIRST OFFROADING TRIP!

>>You tell 'em girl. Maybe some of those SoCal and other big city 4wheelers,
girls don't like to get down and dirty, but here in the south we have a
good many girls that enjoy offroading and that can fix many problems with
their rides.

Don't let anyone tell you that driving a truck is not 'lady like' either. On
of the teachers that works for me is a petite little thing who has always
driven trucks. The first time I saw what she was driving, she crawled into a
73 F250 flatbad with no air and a 4 speed granny low. One of my bowling
partners has never owned anything but duallies to pull her horse trailers. A
A lot of the women teachers drive SUVs and Suburbans. They aren't very good
as far as trucks go, being off brand and all, but they are trucks none the
less. And on top of that, my wife wants a Navigator. Yes, Lisa, trucks are
for girls, too.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 09:22:58 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Texas inspection woes

>> but I don't think anyone ever actually says "Hey that says it should be a 4
cyl and that's obviously a V8" ... unless they're lookin for an original of
some sort ... I could be way off here, but most states allow the swap to
occur if they were available as original options

Yes, they do say that and worse. Again, it depends on the inspector. I once
had a truck to fail because it had a rubber plug on the air cleaner. On some
models, the PCV vented there, but on my truck it had a spacer between the
carb and air cleaner where it went. It came off the assembly line like that.
Some bonehead inspector decided I had been rerouting hoses and wouldn't pass
it. Needless to say, I never went there again for anything and I suppose no
one else did either because he went out of business not long after that.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 07:26:45 PDT
From: b hp
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Junkyard Tips

I found that an empty tool carrier and hefty piece of pipe [ pry bar ] are
invaluable in the junkyard. I also bring a wheel barrow or a dolly on big
shopping trips. I found if you use a hood to carry out your stuff they
charge you more, one less hood they can sell I guess.
I have been to my junkyard so many times that it is amazing what I get for
free.. I always pay cash and never ask for a bill unless its a piece I am
not totally sure about.


Bruce
65 Mercury M-100 2WD P/U 240 |6


______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 10:30:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Sean O'Malley"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ohio E-Check Question For Fellow Ohio FTEer's

> Kentucky (I live in Cincinnati, OH - across the river) in

I think Ohio must still set its inspection laws by county. I live in
Athens county, and there are NO inspections of any kind that I know of,
other than to verify the VIN when you title a vehicle. Heck, if they did
institute inspections here, 60% of the cars in Athens/Meigs/Vinton would
be off the road. Folks just can't afford to fix their clunkers down here.

I hope inspections like yours aren't coming to our area any time soon.
I bought my 78 partly thinking I'd be able to avoid these kinds of
inspection problems because of its age. Now I'm realizing the thing
isn't near old enough to be exempt. Shoulda kept my '70 Gutlass :).
At least the F150 is a non-catalyst, only EGR spec'ed engine, but the
emission controls of those years have always irked me, since they are
kludges added on to engines designed to run well with no smog controls.
Kinda like the way Harleys still are (technology changes VEERY slowly in
Milwaukee :). Their bikes, as shipped from the factory, are dangerously
lean to satisfy EPA requirements. Pretty much the first thing you do
to a new one is put it back the way it was designed to run with bigger
jets, etc. If you don't it has very little power for its displacement
and backfires pretty often through the carb. I'd like to do the
same kinds of mods to my Ford, but these inspection things worry me.
Guess I'll have to research loopholes--historical designation or special
construction perhaps.

Sorry not to be of much help. Just wanted to vent :).

- --sean
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 09:55:29 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - weight terminology

>>what does the terminology "half ton" or 3/4 ton" truck actually refer
>to? Obviously the payload on a half ton truck is more than half a
>ton, and they actually weigh more than 2 tons. Just wondering where
>the termonology came from.

Bill,

The 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton is the amount of weight added to the empty weight of
the truck and the estimated weight of the driver (usually 180 pounds). It
gives you the gross vehicle weight. This weight is what the truck is legally
registered to weigh when fully loaded. The truck is typically capable of
carrying well over this amount, but if the highway patrol weighs you, you
can count on a fine and possibly having your truck impounded.

Note that if you haul something that weighs exactly a half ton and also have
two passengers, you are legally over weight.

In 79 the F150 was called a heavy half. It is actually designed to haul 5/8
of a ton, but most states don't allow for this weight designation, so are
only registered to haul 1/2 ton.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 10:03:26 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 swap won't start

>>I cranked to the other TDC stroke (what I thought was exhaust), reinserted
my distributor, pointed to #1 and VROOM!

Well, Matt, I never could tell the difference in stroke either. Some I put
back together right the first time, some I didn't. But I was lazy and just
moved the wires around the distributor cap instead of pulling the
distributor back out and cranking the engine around.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 10:19:45 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - timing marks and junk yards

Sorry Wish for the mis-direction. George, I've been thinking about my
earlier post. I have seen engines that have a pin sticking out of the block
and all of the timing marks are embossed on the harmonic balancer and not
very deep as I recall. I'll bet this is the way yours was. Probably the only
way you will get them back is to find a hb in the junk yard that has the
marks and swap out your old one. This is easier said than done. If your
marks are gone and that thing has never been off, it is probably going to be
stuck real good.

I also think your advice on junk yard etiquette is very good. It is my MO as
well. I also try to get an estimate or range up front so that I can decide
whether it is worth the effort to pull a used part or go get a new one.
Besides that, my man knows everything in the yard and what's left on each
carcass. When I lost the lock knobs on my Towncar (don't ask), I presented
them to the counter man for payment and he said, "Oh, that's all you needed?
You can have them."

The place money and leave system is called shoplifting in Texas.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

.
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 11:29:40 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem

Hi Scott,

The connection detail here has always been a Mickey Mouse setup, almost every
one of these I've seen has done what yours did. I've had this happen on two
or three different housings.....

The housing brackets seemed to come in a couple of different styles, with the
later models (at least 78-79) being a little more stout than the earlier
models. I can't remember what the 76 had. I think on the earlier models, you
couldn't even pull the bolt out to replace it.

My 77 housing (under a '69 chassis) has the same problem to a small degree.
I've been contemplated two different fixes.

One thing you might think of is drilling and tapping a hole laterally into
"bracket" where the bolt goes through. You can then use this like a set screw
setup to hold the bolt in place. Another alternative is to tack weld the bolt
in place. You'll want enough to hold it, but not too much that you can't
realistically grind the welds away to replace it. One possible disadvantage
is that the heat from the welding may cause a stress concentration in the
bolt, and possibly initiating a crack right where it exits the housing.....

Both are Mickey solutions to a Mickey detail....

I was thinking about your idea of drilling out the hole to the next bigger
size, but I have a hunch it will be pretty difficult to do a good job with a
hand drill while laying on your side under the truck....know what I'm saying?
My guess would be that the drill would "catch", and you find that your arm
gets twisted around about three or four times, either that, or your knuckles
get a little scraped up or pinched.....(just don't ask me how I know about
these things). Even with the help of quite a bit of profanity, this might be
a pretty tough way to go....

By the way, if you haven't replaced the pitman arm (I'm pretty sure your's
has a ball joint on it rather than on the tie rod), I've got one that is
almost brand new that we can make a deal on....

Let us know what you decide!

I'm sure Marino will have some input on this also....

CJ (Colorado Jeff)






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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 10:38:13 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - weight terminology

> The 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton is the amount of weight added to the empty weight of
> the truck and the estimated weight of the driver (usually 180 pounds). It
> gives you the gross vehicle weight.

I must have got the short end of the deal! My '70 F100 weighs 4100#, and
the gvw is 4500#. Anyone care to try and explain this? It had a 360 V8,
np 435 four speed, 3:50 gears with the heavy 3300# rear axle.
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 07:57:47 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem

Subject: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem


>
>The connection detail here has always been a Mickey Mouse setup, almost
every
>one of these I've seen has done what yours did. I've had this happen on two
>or three different housings.....
>
snip
>One thing you might think of is drilling and tapping a hole laterally into
>"bracket" where the bolt goes through. You can then use this like a set
screw
>setup to hold the bolt in place. Another alternative is to tack weld the
bolt
>in place. You'll want enough to hold it, but not too much that you can't
>realistically grind the welds away to replace it.
snip

Ok I too have been thinking about this problem (is that smoke I smell:-)
both the above ideas are valid solutions for a home based mech. and here is
another I've been tossing about....Tap the hole for whatever size threads
are appropriate, use a bolt of the current dia, but slightly longer,
installed from front to rear, add a nut to the rear to lock the bolt in
place. Now you still have the relatively soft steel , now threaded,
supporting the track bar attachment, so one further step would be to drill
and tap the hole to a slightly larger size, install a Helicoil than do as
stated above.

If I've missed something, please speek up.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
Bronco 78 in the BB chat room



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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 12:06:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford76 webtv.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Suprecab

What was the first year for the supercab?

Julia MacLaren
76 F250
460
Hollied

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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 12:32:36 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem

> Ah yes, finding out about the lovely track bar ... been there done that.
> Mine too has the ovalled hole, but no one seemed to be able to come up with
> a viable solution to fix it ... you can't get the pin out the back of the
> bracket, so you can't weld the hole up and drill it back out...someone
> suggested welding the bolt to the bracket, but haven't done that either ...

Bingo-- Took a stick welder and went nuts on the bolt. Worked for me!

Tony


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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 12:58:04 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dana 60-70 hubs/spindles/axle sizes

Hey all

I was wondering about dana rear axle sizes vs spindles/hubs and
bearings. There is no way I can upgrade to 35 spline, 1.5 inch axles on
my 79 dana 60 rear, unless I bore out the spindles. My spindles would be
then about half as thick as they were. If I remember right, dana 70's
(which have 35 spline axles) have the same axle flange and bolt pattern
for bolting up the axle to the hub.

Since you can't really go any wider on the outside of the hub and
still have the wheel opening be big enough, I was wondering what was
made smaller? Are the spindles thinner, the bearings smaller and/or are
the hubs made thinner?

OX
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 10:43:48 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Drilling/Sleeving

"Reached over and grabbed the track bar,
pretty loose. Cool, I thought, $10 fix for new bushings. Wrong. When I
removed the bolt I noticed that the hole has ovalled. Since the bracket
IS part of the housing I guess my next step is to either weld up the
hole and redrill or drill the 3/4" hole to 7/8" and have a sleeve built.
Anybody have a better idea or been though this before?"

Welding up the hole and redrilling a 3/4" hole would be very difficult.
The weld is about as hard as a drill bit.I would try some sort of
sleeve.
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 13:03:56 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem

>Ok I too have been thinking about this problem (is that smoke I smell:-)
>both the above ideas are valid solutions for a home based mech. and here is
>another I've been tossing about....
>Tap the hole for whatever size threads

What hole are we tapping ? The one that holds the bolt in place ? Isn't it
just sheetmetal, a little tough to tap ... or do you mean drill a hole
through the new bolt that's slightly longer ?

>are appropriate, use a bolt of the current dia, but slightly longer,
>installed from front to rear, add a nut to the rear to lock the bolt in
>place.

But how do you get the old one out ? Mine's welded in place I'd have to
cut the welds and re-weld the dealy on .. .but if I was doing that,
couldn't I jut replace the dealy with a harder home made piece since I had
it apart ? (well not me personally, but someone who can weld)

Now you still have the relatively soft steel , now threaded,
>supporting the track bar attachment, so one further step would be to drill
>and tap the hole to a slightly larger size, install a Helicoil than do as
>stated above.
>

I have totally missed what you are drilling and tapping I guess ... the
case for the axle ? The bracket holding the track bar ? The bolt that
holds the track bar ?

The more I think about this mickey mouse setup the more I don't like it ...
if you have a lifted vehicle for one thng it seems like it would be better
to just make a new bracket, maybe one that CLAMPS onto the axle so that you
can replace it if it ever does wear out ...

hmmmm....hey there's an odd thought ... 'course it would probably require
some machine work ... but then you could also build an H style that would
clamp on both sides of the ... hmmm

check out http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Tech/bracket.jpg

anyone think something like that might work ?
anyone want to build one ? I can come up with an autocad drawing if you
need one, probably ...


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 10:31:07 -0800
From: "Erik Marquez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem

- -----Original Message-----
From: William S Hart
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, June 09, 1999 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem


>>Ok I too have been thinking about this problem (is that smoke I smell:-)
>>both the above ideas are valid solutions for a home based mech. and here
is
>>another I've been tossing about....
>>Tap the hole for whatever size threads
>
>What hole are we tapping ? The one that holds the bolt in place ? Isn't it
>just sheetmetal, a little tough to tap ... or do you mean drill a hole
>through the new bolt that's slightly longer ?
>

The hole I am talking about is the monting point on the D44 housing for the
track bar. Solid cast steel not sheet metal. I believe your thinking about
the frame end of the track bar.

Currently the track bar (TB) attached with a single bolt to the housing. The
housing erodes, the bolt (TB mount) wiggles, this is the problem. My
solution (one of them) is to drill and tap that hole, use a longer bolt,
after bolting the TB to the housing, add a nut to the portion of the bolt
that protrudes through the mount (hence the longer bolt) Will it work? darn
if I know. I'll use this idea, or the drill and sleeve one in the very near
future. One I can do on my own, the sleeve I will have to have made at a
machine shop. so well see which way I go.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 mosquitonet.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mosquitonet.com/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
Bronco 78 in the BB chat room



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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 13:44:35 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Track bar problem

>The hole I am talking about is the monting point on the D44 housing for the
>track bar. Solid cast steel not sheet metal. I believe your thinking about
>the frame end of the track bar.
>
Nope, I'm thinkin of the right end ... maybe its different from year to year ?

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/tech/springs/Images/nospring2.jpg

that's a not great picture of what mine looks like, you can just see it
behind the spring pad, which was the point of the picture (the spring pad,
not the track arm). It has been a while since I've looked at that, but I
will be under the truck tonight so I'll be able to look again at it
(entirely too closely I'm sure). I am interested in what can be done to
straighten this out since mine is also wobbly, but I don't think its the
cause of most of my problems ...

>if I know. I'll use this idea, or the drill and sleeve one in the very near
>future. One I can do on my own, the sleeve I will have to have made at a
>machine shop. so well see which way I go.

Lemme know what you come up with and how it works.


Just my 2cents

wish

Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/links.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 15:00:19 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Drilling/Sleeving

J.S.H. wrote:
>
> "Reached over and grabbed the track bar,
> pretty loose. Cool, I thought, $10 fix for new bushings. Wrong. When I
> removed the bolt I noticed that the hole has ovalled. Since the bracket
> IS part of the housing I guess my next step is to either weld up the
> hole and redrill or drill the 3/4" hole to 7/8" and have a sleeve built.
> Anybody have a better idea or been though this before?"

I had small pads made up that and drilled the holes in them. I then
bolted the pads onto either end of the bracket. Then I welded them in
place around pad edges. Also, I found a bolt with a shoulder that runs
the entire lenght, as the stock bolt has threads that are on the bearing
side on one end. If you are lifted, you probably need an adjustable....


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