61-79-list-digest Sunday, June 6 1999 Volume 03 : Number 192



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - F500
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material
FTE 61-79 - Hot Starting
FTE 61-79 - RE: Dizzy Update, Timing Specs
FTE 61-79 - ground
FTE 61-79 - Dizzy without a light
FTE 61-79 - Re: Hot Starting
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing
FTE 61-79 - 390 Gaskets
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Gaskets
FTE 61-79 - 302 Head Swap
FTE 61-79 - CFCFT
FTE 61-79 - 460 SWAP WON'T START
FTE 61-79 - 460 SWAP WON'T START
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 SWAP WON'T START
FTE 61-79 - 460 update and cab removal
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 SWAP WON'T START

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Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 07:25:27 -0400
From: Linda Purut
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F500

>What is a F500? Mega duty?

Yes, yes it is. It is rated at 15,000 lbs hauling capacity. I am going
to build a flatbed for it and use it on my farm. Check out the link
below to see what it looks like.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/Chelley/

>A rear axle that can shift between different gear ratios???

Yes, yes it does. Two speed axles give you more gear choices when
hauling heavy loades. It allowes the driver to keep the engine at its
peak torque output. Thats why you hear semi drivers changing gears so
often. I intend to use it more for its overdrive capability. The engine
in my truck makes its most power at 3500 rpm. I have calculated it out
to be about 53 mph. I would like to go a little faster than that since
it is an hours drive between my house in Raleigh and my farm.

Another alternitave to the axle is an auxilarry transmission. This is
located behind the main transmission and works much the same way. Have
not found one of thoes either.

Jon E. Purut

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Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 04:28:50 -0700
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake lining material

I dont know what was originalally on your truck but i recommend
semi-metallic or better.

I experimented when i was younger and delivering pizza in a 77 pinto,
and i found that the cheap organic pads would be gone in 3 months or
less with alot of city driving, but they never hurt the rotors, so they
are not worth the 10 bux you save. The metallic pads do last the longest
but tend to take a few thouthands of an inch off the rotors meaning you
have to get them turned and the will wear the rotors out.

I prefer the semi, and i order them for most cars i work on but they
tend to squeak and chirp, sometimes no trick in the books will stop it.

I tell most people simply... how much do you want to spend in the long
run?

draco pacifier.com wrote:
>
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Cc: draco
> Subject: Brake lining material
>
> What do you guys think is the best way to go for front disks and
> drum rear. Non-metallic, Semi-Metallic, Metallic? Anyone know
> what was original on '73-79 trucks?
>
> Mark in Southwest Washington
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco
> --
> '74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
>
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Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 09:06:18 -0700
From: "O'Connor"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hot Starting

John,
Saw your response and I've added the warped flywheel to the chart. Don't
know if it was related to slow turn over or not. Would appreaciate if
someone would report in and let us know if this was a real fix or just a
hunch and if it turned slow. John, also you reported that your truck turns
over slowly when how. I think that is the key to the problem. I had a 56
Chubby that turned over slow when I shut it down and would't start intill
it cooled. I did discovered that if I parked it on a hill I could pop the
clutch it would fire off. That real embarrassing on a date!

Hot starting- slow turn over Hot starting- normal turn over
antifreeze buildup Vaporizing fuel
Bad ground at starter??? Bad ground at starter???
Warped Flywheel??? Warped Flywheel???

If the guy that experienced the ground problem would report in and let me
know if it turned over slow or normal, I can put it in the proper column.

Thanks
Tim 66F100 w/SWB, stock P/S and O/D
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Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1999 10:04:20 -0400
From: "George W. Selby, III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Dizzy Update, Timing Specs

If you don't spin the distributor back, then the engine pings and knocks
and is hard to start (slow cranking, too much advance) Spin it back, no
problem. To set the idle, I first set the timing where I think it should
be (which is where I see all the Ford 400M Distributors pointing in the
junkyard ones I come across, kinda to the front), then I adjust the mixture
for lean best, then I back off the idle adjustment screw (because the idle
usually needs to go down after this) I go round and round a couple of
times, and then stop, because the truck is running good.

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
IsuzuG prodigy.net

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Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 09:21:50 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L. Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ground

> I was wondering if anybody ever had any problems with the engine not
> grounding the rest of thier truck? The reason I ask is about 10 times in
> the last 6 months I get into my truck and the interior light, radio,
> starter, headlights, (everything) is dead. My battery is a brand new
> Interstate, brand new cables, new solenoid on fender. I can slam the doors
> a couple times or let the clutch snap back and eventually everything comes
> back to life, and the truck will turn over. It's never died while driving.
> The big question is: Could I be loosing ground somewhere between the engine
> and frame? Is there a ground strap between the two and if yes where? I
> have my volt meter sitting on the front seat and when it does it again I can
> determine if the cab has any +or-. Thanks!!!

Sounds like a basis for the sequel to "Christine." Does the radio come
on to the oldies station without warning?
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Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1999 10:15:42 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dizzy without a light

I've noticed while reading an official Ford service manual for a 64
T-Bird, that to set a dizzy without a timing light, you use the TDC method
to install and to get the engine to a point where it will run, then advance
the timing until performance drops off then retard it slightly and bolt it
down.
I'm considering using this method and wanted to hear your opinions
before I install a new dizzy on a new 390 4bbl with 69 428 CJ/SCJ/Police cam
specs.


Danger



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Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1999 09:45:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Hot Starting

John,

Put an insulator under your carb. That will prevent
percolating.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V


>I will address it further this weekend. I am leaning
>towards the carbperc
>scenariobecause sometimes I do smell gas and
>sometimes it behaves as though its
>mildlyflooded.



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 09:59:44 -0700
From: bunnybuster
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing

Actually they work together, to give you total advance.

Bas van der Veer wrote:
>
> >Not necessarily, the only difference between ported and non ported should
> >be idle conditions, everywhere else you will have the same vacuum ...
>
> I thought the vacuum advance is only needed in case you suddenly step on
> the gas, it'll temporarily advance the vacuum so it does not hesitate. Then
> as the rpm increases the centrifugal thing takes over.
>
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Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1999 13:30:14 -0500
From: JOHN E DOLSON
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 Gaskets

The Bottom end of my 390 is assembled and I'm starting to assemble the
top end. I was looking through my gasket set today and realized I don't
know where something goes. They are 2 strips of foam rubber, about 8-10
inches long, one seems to be thinner than the other. What are these
strips for? any help would be appreciated

John Dolson
Jefferson City, MO
1976 F150 Ranger XLT

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Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1999 13:37:09 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 Gaskets

John Dolson wrote...

> The Bottom end of my 390 is assembled and I'm starting to assemble the
> top end. I was looking through my gasket set today and realized I don't
> know where something goes. They are 2 strips of foam rubber, about 8-10
> inches long, one seems to be thinner than the other. What are these
> strips for? any help would be appreciated
>
..........

There should be large plate between the engine block and the trans. The
short rubber seal goes into the rectangular dimple on one side of the plate,
and the long square piece goes on the other side of the plate near the
bottom. I used contact cement and glued the new gaskets into place.

BTW:) Be sure to install the plate on the block before you install the
flywheel.

Danger


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Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 16:31:16 +0000
From: "James Holland"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 302 Head Swap

I'm swapping the heads on my 302 with 351w heads. I know it can be done but
I need to get it done in a weekend and I need to know a.) What type of
rocker arms should I use? (302 or 351w) b.) What type of pushrods should I
use? and c.) What type of head bolts should I use? I know I need 351w
valve covers but will my 302 intake fit? If anyone has done this please let
me know. I do know my way around a 302 but I've never tried this before.
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Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1999 16:59:33 -0400
From: jdklaers magicnet.net (PredFan)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - CFCFT

This is for any Ford truck owners in the state of Florida......

...several of us listers here have started the Central Florida Classic Ford
Truck Club. We're still in the start-up phase and we need members. Also, as
yet there are no membership dues.

If interested, respond off list.

John D. Klaers

- -----------------------------------
Deja Fu: The feeling you get that
somehow, somewhere, you've been
kicked in the head like this before.
- -----------------------------------


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Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1999 19:04:04 -0700
From: "The Zahn's"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 SWAP WON'T START

Hello All,
I replaced a 429 in my 71 F350 with a 460 that I rebuilt. The problem is
that it won't start. It is getting spark and gas. One problem is that when
I try to start it the starter cranks for a couple of rotations and then get
slower and slower. It sounds like a dead battery so I kept charging it but
the same results. I tested the battery and it checked out ok under a load
so then I thought that it might be the starter so I got another one and it
does the same thing. All of the cables seem to be hooked up and the timing
is very close as far as I can tell. It won't turn over long enough for me
to check it with a timing light but I know that the piston is on a
compression stroke and the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder. Could it
be so tight that the starter doesn't have the power to turn it over? I
don't know. Any advise from all of your experiences would help.
Thanks,
FredZ



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Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1999 19:04:04 -0700
From: "The Zahn's"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 SWAP WON'T START

Hello All,
I replaced a 429 in my 71 F350 with a 460 that I rebuilt. The problem is
that it won't start. It is getting spark and gas. One problem is that when
I try to start it the starter cranks for a couple of rotations and then get
slower and slower. It sounds like a dead battery so I kept charging it but
the same results. I tested the battery and it checked out ok under a load
so then I thought that it might be the starter so I got another one and it
does the same thing. All of the cables seem to be hooked up and the timing
is very close as far as I can tell. It won't turn over long enough for me
to check it with a timing light but I know that the piston is on a
compression stroke and the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder. Could it
be so tight that the starter doesn't have the power to turn it over? I
don't know. Any advise from all of your experiences would help.
Thanks,
FredZ



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Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1999 22:16:37 -0500
From: "charlest"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 SWAP WON'T START

Sounds to me like you have such high compresion that you need a "high
torque" starter!

Charles in Texas



>Hello All,
> I replaced a 429 in my 71 F350 with a 460 that I rebuilt. The problem is
>that it won't start. It is getting spark and gas. One problem is that
when
>I try to start it the starter cranks for a couple of rotations and then get
>slower and slower. It sounds like a dead battery so I kept charging it but
>the same results. I tested the battery and it checked out ok under a load
>so then I thought that it might be the starter so I got another one and it
>does the same thing. All of the cables seem to be hooked up and the timing
>is very close as far as I can tell. It won't turn over long enough for me
>to check it with a timing light but I know that the piston is on a
>compression stroke and the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder. Could it
>be so tight that the starter doesn't have the power to turn it over? I
>don't know. Any advise from all of your experiences would help.
>Thanks,
>FredZ
>
>
>
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>
>
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>

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Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 23:48:33 -0500
From: cannandale netpointe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 update and cab removal

well, got that big ol 460 back in the truck last week, and finally got
around to getting it running. Runs great, sounds great and everything else.

Took it work that morning, with the dash tore apart (doing some wiring
too), and about halfway there the left front brake started locking up, so
im going to re-build the calipers during lunch and on my own time, had to
leave it there.. :( I would just put reman calipers on, but after all the
money spent, i cant aford them, going to school and working part time.. $48
a pop (jobber rate!) ack...

to whoever that said that electric fans wont cool a 460 correctly was
WRONG, they do great! Im running a 14" and a 10" puller and it does great.
But it might help that im running a 4 core (wide core) diesel radiator out
of a F600 or so dump truck, ha!
I ended up using a chrysler temp switch to turn it on a 173F. I looked for
a adjustable one, they was about $30 at napa, and this one was $5.50,
so..... anways, works great and keeps the needle down, plus it warms the
engine up alot faster!

changing subjects....

now that ive got the engine done and everything, im starting to do body
work. Ive allready got my new fenders and bed ready to go on the truck, so
i need to start working on the cab. im going to paint, but not just tape
the windows and stuff off, take the cab off and re-paint it right,
underneath it and everything. What all is involved in removing it,
including the wiring, and the steerding column...

thats enough for now..


cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460
- --== Cowboy up!! ==--





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Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 19:25:17 -0700
From: Dennis Dellinger
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 SWAP WON'T START

Hi Fred
Did you use assembly lube when you built the engine? Did you prime the oil
pump? Did you run the oil pump up to get pressure before you dropped in the
distributor?
Dennis Dellinger

The Zahn's wrote:

> Hello All,
> I replaced a 429 in my 71 F350 with a 460 that I rebuilt. The problem is
> that it won't start. It is getting spark and gas. One problem is that when
> I try to start it the starter cranks for a couple of rotations and then get
> slower and slower. It sounds like a dead battery so I kept charging it but
> the same results. I tested the battery and it checked out ok under a load
> so then I thought that it might be the starter so I got another one and it
> does the same thing. All of the cables seem to be hooked up and the timing
> is very close as far as I can tell. It won't turn over long enough for me
> to check it with a timing light but I know that the piston is on a
> compression stroke and the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder. Could it....


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